Bashlyk

Abashlyk,also spelledbashlik(Karachay-Balkar:Başlıq,Adyghe:Shkharkhon,Abkhaz:qtarpá,Chechen:Ċukkuiy,Ossetic:басылыхъхъ,basylyqq,Crimean Tatar:Başlıq,Tatar:Başlıq,Turkish:Başlık; "baş" - head, "-lıq" (Tatar) / "-lık" (Turkish) - derivative suffix), is a traditionalTurkic,North Caucasian,Iranian,andCossackcone-shapedhoodedheaddress,usually ofleather,feltorwool,featuring a round toppedbonnetwithlappetsfor wrapping around the neck. Local versions determine the trim, which may consist of decorative cords, embroidery, jewelry, metallized strings, fur balls or tassels. Among dozens of versions are winter bashlyks worn atop regular headdress, cotton bashlyks, homeknitted bashlyks, silk bashlyks, scarf bashlyks, down bashlyks, dress bashlyks, jumpsuit-type bashlyks, etc. Bashlyks are used as traditional folk garment, and as uniform headdress.

Kosta Khetagurov wearing bashlyk (white)

5th century BCGreekdepiction of aScythianarcher wearing what would generally be called a Bashlyk

A variation of bashlyk is thekalpak(qalpaq), a cone-shaped headdress without lappets, mostly made of leather, felt or wool,and themalahai,also known as thetymak,a curved cone-shaped headdress, either with or without lappets, mostly made of leather, and occasionally with afur-wrapping, originally worn by most inhabitants of theIdel-Ural,but nowadays mostly reduced to theBashkirs.It also went on to inspire thebudenovkain theUSSR.

6th century BC Greek depiction of Scythian warrior wearing a folded Bashlyk very similar to the fur-lessBashkirvariant of theMalahai

History

The origins of this conical headgear can possibly be traced back to the oldest equestrian nomadic peoples in antiquity. It may have originated as a type ofsauna hatto preserve body heat, due to most nomadic cultures having practiced a variety of thesteam bathrather than traditionalbathing,with the upright length of the hood eventually becoming a symbol ofsocial statusamong some peoples.

20th century photograph depictingLezginswearing bashlyks and kalpaks

TheScythiansare often depicted in ancient depictions with hoods, which were then calledPhrygian caps,after a similar headgear of theAnatolianPhrygians.Although named after the Phrygians, the long pointed hoods were already widespread among theScythians,Cimmerians,ArgippaeansandSarmatians.TheCentral AsianSakas,used similar, but usually much higher hoods, as ancient depictions and archaeological finds show. Research inTurkologyandIranian studiesoften assumes a continuity between the antecedent of the Phrygian cap and the Bashlyk, often referring to this ancient headgear with the word Bashlyk exclusively.

7th century BCAchaemeniddepiction of aSakasatrapwearing a Bashlyk andMustache

In modern times, bashlyks became fashionable in Russia in 1830-1840, after theNapoleonic Warswith significant participation of theBashkircavalry. By the 1862 bashlyks were made a uniform headdress inCossackarmies, and later in other branches of Russian armed forces. The military bashlyk was bright yellow camel wool, with a yellow band. Officer bashlyks had gold or silver band. In theRussian army,bashlyks lasted till 1917, when they became a trademark ofWhite Armyofficers andRed Armycavalry.

Gallery

• 
  Orenburg Cossacks wearing bashlyks and cloaks (on the left), 1839
• 
  A sketch of an old man byVasnetsov,1871
• 
  A sketch of aDon Cossackwith bashlyk on, taken in Paris during thecampaign of 1815
• 
  The same Don Cossack with bashlyk off, on the back
• 
  19th century depiction of Bashkirs raiding Paris, all depicted wearing Bashlyks and Malahais

See also

• Malahai
• Budenovka
• Kalpak
• Kausia
• Phrygian cap