Wikipedia

Ceredigion

For other uses, seeCeredigion (disambiguation).

Ceredigion([kɛrɛˈdɪɡjɔn]ⓘ), historicallyCardiganshire(/ˈkɑːrdɪɡənˌʃɪər,-ʃər/), is acountyin thewestofWales.It bordersGwyneddacross theDyfiestuaryto the north,Powysto the east,CarmarthenshireandPembrokeshireto the south, and theIrish Seato the west.Aberystwythis the largest settlement and, together withAberaeron,is an administrative centre ofCeredigion County Council.

Ceredigion
County
Flag of Ceredigion
Flag
Coat of arms of Ceredigion
Coat of arms
Motto(s):
Welsh:Golud Gwlad Rhyddid,lit. 'the wealth of the land is freedom'
Ceredigion shown within Wales
Ceredigion shown withinWales
Coordinates:52°15′10″N4°00′01″W/ 52.25278°N 4.00028°W/52.25278; -4.00028
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
CountryWales
Preserved countyDyfed
Incorporated1 April 1996
AdministrativeHQAberaeronandAberystwyth
Government
[1]
• TypePrincipal council
• BodyCeredigion County Council
•ControlPlaid Cymru
•MPsBen Lake(PC)
•MSs
Area
[2]
• Total
689 sq mi (1,785 km2)
• Rank4th
Population
(2022)[2]
• Total
71,610
• Rank19th
• Density100/sq mi (40/km2)
Welsh language(2021)
[3]
• Speakers45.3%
• Rank3rd
Time zoneUTC+0(GMT)
• Summer (DST)UTC+1(BST)
ISO 3166 codeGB-CGN
GSS codeW06000008
Websiteceredigion.gov.uk

The county is the second most sparsely populated in Wales, with an area of 688 square miles (1,780 km2) and a population of 71,500; the latter is a decline of 4,492 since the2011 census.After Aberystwyth (15,935), the largest towns areCardigan(4,184) andLampeter(2,970). Ceredigion is considered a centre ofWelsh cultureand 45.3% of the population could speak theWelsh languageat the 2021 census.

To the west, Ceredigion has 50 miles (80 km) of coastline onCardigan Bay,which is traversed by theCeredigion Coast Path.Its hinterland is hilly and rises to theCambrian Mountainsin the east, where the highest point isPlynlimonat 752 metres (2,467 ft). The mountains are the source of the county's main rivers: theRheidol,Ystwyth,AeronandTeifi;the last of these is Ceredigion's boundary with Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire for most of its length.

Ceredigion is named after aminor kingdomwhich occupied approximately the area of the county in the fifth century AD. The contemporary county has the same borders as Cardiganshire, which was established in 1282 by the English kingEdward Iafter hisconquest of Wales.In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the county was more industrialised than it is today;lead,silverandzincwere mined in the area, and Cardigan was the largest port in South Wales. The economy later became highly dependent ondairy farming,but is diversifying into areas such as tourism as farming becomes less profitable. The county is home to theNational Library of Wales,Aberystwyth University,and the Lampeter campus ofUniversity of Wales Trinity St David.

History

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See also:Kingdom of CeredigionandSeisyllwg

Ceredigion has been inhabited since prehistoric times. A total of 170 hill forts and enclosures have been identified across the county and there are many standing stones dating back to theBronze Age.[4]Around the time of theRoman invasion of Britain,the area was between the realms of theDemetaeandOrdovices.TheSarn Helenroadran through the territory, withfortsatBremiaandLoventiumprotecting gold mines near present-dayLlanddewi Brefi.Following theRoman withdrawal,Irishraids and invasionswere repulsed, supposedly by the forces under anorthernernamedCunedda.The 9th-centuryHistory of the Britonsattributed toNenniusrecords that Cunedda's sonCeredigsettled the area around the Teifi in the 5th century.[5]The territory supposedly remaineda minor kingdomunder his dynasty until its extinction upon the drowning ofGwgon ap Meurigc. 871,after which it was administered byRhodri MawrofGwyneddbefore passing to his sonCadell,whose sonHywel Ddainherited its neighbouring kingdomDyfedand established the realm ofDeheubarth.Records are highly obscure; some historians believe thatHyfaidd ap Bledrig,the Dyfed ruler, may have annexed Ceredigion before his heirs lost it to Hywel through war.

Many pilgrims passed through Cardiganshire on their way toSt Davids.Some came by sea and made use of the churches atMwntandPenbryn,while others came by land seeking hospitality at such places asStrata Florida Abbey.Both the abbey andLlanbadarn Fawrwere important monastic sites of scholarship and education. Place names includingysbytydenote their association with pilgrims.[6]

In 1282,Edward I of Englandconquered the principality of Wales and divided the area into counties. One of thirteentraditional counties in Wales.Cardiganshire was split into the fivehundredsof Genau'r-Glyn, Ilar, Moyddyn, Penarth and Troedyraur.[7][8]

Much later, Cardiganshire was designated as avice-county.

Hand-drawn map of Radnorshire, Brecknockshire, Cardiganshire and Carmarthenshire by Christopher Saxton in 1578

Pen-y-wenalltwas home to 17th century theologian and author,Theophilus Evans.[9]In the 18th century there was an evangelical revival of Christianity, andnonconformismbecame established in the county as charismatic preachers likeDaniel RowlandofLlangeithoattracted large congregations. Every community built its own chapel or meeting house, and Cardiganshire became one of the centres ofMethodismin Wales; theAeron Valleywas at the centre of the revival.[10]

Cardiganwas one of the major ports of southern Wales until its harbour silted in the mid-19th century. TheIndustrial Revolutionpassed by, not much affecting the area. In the uplands, wheeled vehicles were rare in the 18th century, and horses andsledswere still being used for transport. On the coast, herrings and corn were traded across the Irish Sea. In the 19th century, many of the rural poor emigrated to theNew Worldfrom Cardigan, between five and six thousand leaving the town between 1790 and 1860. Aberystwyth became the main centre for the export ofleadand Aberaeron and Newquay did brisk coastal trade. The building of the railway from Shrewsbury in the 1860s encouraged visitors, and hotels sprang up in the town to accommodate them.[11]

This area of the county ofDyfedbecame adistrict of Walesunder the name Ceredigion in 1974 under theLocal Government Act 1972,[12]and since 1996, has formed the county of Ceredigion.[13]According to the2021 census45.3% of the population can speakWelsh,the third highest proportion afterGwyneddand theIsle of Anglesey.Nevertheless, this was a decline from 47.3% in 2011 and 52% in 2001.[14][15][16]

Geography

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See also:List of places in Ceredigion
See also:Geology of Ceredigion
Aberaeron Harbour
Cors Caron,near Tregaron

Ceredigion is a coastal county, bordered byCardigan Bayto the west,Gwyneddto the north,Powysto the east,Carmarthenshireto the south andPembrokeshireto the south-west. Its area is 1,795 square kilometres (693 sq mi).[17]In 2010 the population was 76,938, making it the second most sparsely populated county in Wales.[17]

The main settlements areAberaeron,Aberporth,Aberystwyth,Borth,Cardigan,Lampeter,Llanarth,Llanddewi Brefi,Llandysul,Llanilar,Llanrhystud,Llanon,New Quay,andTregaron.The largest of these are Aberystwyth and Cardigan.[18]

TheCambrian Mountainscover much of the east of the county; this large area forms part of thedesert of Wales.In the south and west, the surface is less elevated. The highest point isPlynlimon(Pumlumon) at 2,467 feet (752 m), otherMarilynsincludePen y GarnandLlan Ddu Fawr.On the slopes of Pumlumon five rivers have their sources: theSevern,theWye,theDulas,theLlyfnantand theRheidol,the last of which meets theAfon Mynachin a 300 feet (91 m) plunge at theDevil's Bridgechasm. The largest river is theRiver Teifiwhich forms the border with Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire for part of its length. The towns of Lampeter, Llandysul, Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan are all in the Teifi Valley, and each has communities on each side of the river, in different counties. Other significant rivers include theRiver Aeronwhich has its estuary atAberaeron,and theRiver Ystwythand theRiver Rheidolboth of which reach the sea in Aberystwythharbour.[18]

Ceredigion's 50 miles (80 km) of coastline has sandy beaches. In 2011 Ceredigion's beaches were awarded fiveBlue Flag Awards,fourGreen Coast Awards,and fourteenSeaside Awards.[19]Ceredigion is one of only two places in the United Kingdom with a permanent presence ofbottlenose dolphins.[20]Another member of the fauna is thered kite;these may be seen in various localities in the county, but at the Red Kite Feeding Centre near Tregaron, they are fed each day, and large numbers congregate along with hungry crows and other birds.[21]

Between 1991 and 2003 Ceredigion had the largest population growth of any county in Wales, with a 19.5% increase.[22]Tourism and agriculture, chiefly hill farming, are the most important industries. In addition, twouniversitiesare within the county boundaries:Aberystwyth Universityand the Lampeter campus of theUniversity of Wales, Trinity Saint David.TheWelsh Plant Breeding Stationis near Aberystwyth and linked to the University. TheNational Library of Wales,founded in 1907, is also in Aberystwyth. Ceredigion is an extremely rural county; the largest town, Aberystwyth, has fewer than 15,000 permanent residents and the remainder of the population of the county is scattered over 150 small towns, villages and hamlets.[23]According to the2011 UK censusthe population of Ceredigion was around 75,900. By the time the2021 UK censuswas taken this had fallen by 5.8% to 71,500.

The county has no large commercial areas. The nearest substantial settlements are located at least 1 hour 45 minutes drive away. Approximate road distances from Ceredigion's largest town, Aberystwyth, are:Swansea,75 miles (121 km) to the south;Shrewsbury,76 miles (122 km) to the east, in theEnglishcounty ofShropshire;andWrexham,82 miles (132 km) to the northeast. The capital,Cardiff,is over 100 miles (160 km) from most parts of the county. Although Ceredigion and Gwynedd share a boundary, it is not possible to travel directly between the two by land as all road and rail links avoid the Dyfi estuary and pass through Dyfi Junction orMachynllethin Powys.[18]

Government

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See also:Ceredigion County Council
Ceredigion, as shown with traditional boundaries

Between 1889 and 1974, the county was governed byCardiganshire County Council,which took over the local government functions of thequarter sessions.[13]The county council was abolished in 1974 by theLocal Government Act 1972,with the area becoming the lower-tierdistrict of Ceredigionwithin the larger county ofDyfed.[24]Until 1974, Cardiganshire had been governed locally bycivil parishes;these in large part equated toecclesiastical parishes,most of which still exist as part of the Church in Wales.[25]Further local government reform under theLocal Government (Wales) Act 1994saw the area become aunitary authorityon 1 April 1996. The 1994 act specified that the reformed council was to have both a Welsh and an English name: Sir Aberteifi / Cardiganshire. Before the new arrangements came into force the incoming council resolved to change the name to Ceredigion in both languages. The government agreed the change of name, which took effect on 2 April 1996, one day after the new authority formally came into being.[26][27][12]

Areferendumwas held on 20 May 2004 on whether to have adirectly elected mayorfor the county, which would have been the first in Wales. TheLlais Ceredigionpolitical initiative had been formed with this aim,[28]but the proposal was rejected.[29]

As of 2024, the council leader is Bryan Davies ofPlaid Cymru.[30]

The entire county is aSenedd constituency,with itsMember of the SeneddbeingElin Jones(Plaid Cymru) for theCeredigion constituency.[31]

At Westminster, all of Ceredigion is in theCeredigion Preseliconstituency since 2024, replacingCeredigion.[32][33]WithBen Lake(Plaid Cymru) being re-elected as theMember of Parliamentin the2024 election.[34]

Economy

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Hill farm at Cwm Brefi

Farming has traditionally been the basis of Cardiganshire's economy, with dairying and stock-rearing being the main occupations. Before the first railway was built in 1866, the stock used to be herded over the mountains to England, whereRugby,Northamptonand London were important destinations. At one time there was a sizeable mining industry in Cardiganshire, but the reserves of lead, silver and zinc became unprofitable to mine by the early 20th century. Shipping was also important in the county, with coal and lime being imported in coastal vessels, and mineral ores and oak bark fortanningbeing exported.Shipbuildingwas an important industry: most of Wales' sailing vessels were built in Cardiganshire.[17]

Cardiganshire had a substantial population in the early modern period, but this declined during the 19th century as wider social and economic developments affected all aspects of Cardiganshire life. Traditional industries were in decline, agriculture was in decline and it was becoming increasingly difficult for a still-rising population to earn a living within their native parishes and communities. By the first half of the 20th century, falling livestock prices and greater international competition made farming unprofitable. Many residents of Cardiganshire moved to other parts of South Wales, where there were better employment opportunities, and many more emigrated to the United States, Canada, Patagonia and Australia.[17]Furthermore, the owners of the great landed estates, who had for so long dominated the politics of the county, were in many cases heavily in debt. This led to the loss of landowner influence in the running of the county; this became very apparent at the first elections to theCardiganshire County Councilin 1889.[35]

Caravan park atClarach Bay

By the second half of the 20th century, the population was increasing again. More retired people were arriving to make their home in the tranquil surroundings, and after the Beacham Commission in the 1960s, the British government realised that the rural way of life in parts of Wales was in crisis, and started to react. Through government initiatives and local actions, opportunities in tourism, rural crafts, specialist food shops, farmers' markets and added-value food products began to emerge.[17]However, in 2011, at 3.1%, Ceredigion still had one of the highest proportions of its population working in agriculture, forestry and fishing, close behind such other places asOrkneyandShetland.[36]Exposed, marginal land is also used forwind farms:Cefn Croes Wind FarmnearDevil's Bridgehas 39 turbines and a nominal capacity of 58.5 MW.[37]

Farm incomes have been in decline over the years; and, as well as being aEuropean Objective I area,in 2001 Ceredigion was designated a regional "Tourist growth area" by theWales Tourist Board.[23]There is little industry other than farming, so tourism plays an important part in the county's economy. Visitors stay in hotels, guest houses and homes offering bed-and-breakfast, self-catering cottages, caravans and camp sites; they spend money in local shops, dine in local establishments and visit the county's many attractions. Ceredigion prides itself on offering an unspoilt natural landscape, and Aberystwyth claims to be the capital of Welsh culture.[38]

Leisure

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National Library of Wales

TheNational Library of Wales[39]is at Aberystwyth and there is information on local history at theCeredigion Museum.[39]There is a technical museumInternal Fire – Museum of Power,which is atTan-y-groesnear the coast road.[40]Stately homes in the county open to the public include theHafod Estate[41]andLlanerchaeron.[39]It is home to theAberystwyth Arts Centre.[42]

The county is rich in archaeological remains such as forts, earthworks and standing stones. Historic sites that can be accessed includeAberystwyth Castle[39]andCardigan Castle,[43]as well asStrata Florida Abbey.[44]Other visitor attractions include theCwmystwyth Mines,Llywernog Mine,Devil's Bridge,[39]the Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre,[39][45]Elvis Rock,Cors Caron(Tregaron bog), theVale of Rheidol Railway,[39]and theAberystwyth Cliff Railway.[39]

Leisure activities available in the county include beach activities, rambling, cycling, sea fishing, canoeing, sailing and horse riding. Many of the towns and villages along the coast have small harbours and facilities for sailing, dolphin watching and other maritime activities. TheCeredigion Coast Pathfrom Cardigan toYnyslasruns about 60 miles (97 km) along the coast with spectacular scenery. It can conveniently be divided into seven sections.[46]WhenDylan Thomaslived in New Quay and Talsarn, he frequented Aberaeron and Lampeter. TheDylan Thomas Traillinks places associated with him.[47]

The Welsh Government's Visit Wales website describes theRiver Teifias "one of the major game rivers of Wales,"[48]although there has been concern that salmon stocks are in decline.[49]There are a series of rapids near Llandysul where canoeing, kayaking and white water rafting take place.[50]

The county's main football team,Aberystwyth Townin theCymru Premier,play their home matches atPark Avenue Stadium.[51]Cardigan Town Football Club, also known as the "Magpies", play in Division 1 of the Ceredigion League.[52]

Transport

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UAV at West Wales airport

TheCambrian Lineprovides main line railway services betweenAberystwyth,ShrewsburyandBirmingham,where passengers can join services for London and elsewhere. Passengers can change atDovey Junctionfor trains along theCambrian Coast LinetoPwllheli.[53]

There are no motorways in Ceredigion; the nearest is the western end of theM4 motorwayatPont Abraham,nearPontarddulaisinCarmarthenshire.TheFishguardtoBangortrunk road,theA487,travels in a north-east direction following the coast from Cardigan toNew Quay,throughAberaeronandAberystwyth.TheA44travels eastwards fromAberystwythtoLlangurig,before turning south then east throughRhayader,LeominsterandWorcester.[54]

There are local bus services between the main centres of population,[55]with long distance services betweenAberystwythandCardiff,viaAberaeronandLampeter.A bus service known asBwcabusoperates in the south of the county, offering customised transport for rural dwellers.[56]TrawsCymru T1 service runs between Aberystwyth and Carmarthen, with some journeys through Aberaeron and Lampeter.

Aberporth Airport,located south-east ofAberporth,is being developed as West Wales Airport for domestic flights within Wales and the rest of theUnited Kingdom.The airport is also developing as a centre for the deployment of civil and militaryunmanned aerial vehicles(UAVs), also known as 'drones'. The airport underwent major improvements in 2008, which extended the length of the runway from 945 to 1,257 m (3,100 to 4,124 ft).[55][57]

Library

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Ceredigion Library has a collection oforal historyinterviews with people from Ceredigion during the 1960s and 1970s. The recordings were archived, digitised, catalogued and made available during theUnlocking Our Sound Heritageproject at theNational Library of Wales.[58]

See also

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References

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  1. ^"Your Council".Ceredigion County Council.Retrieved6 August2024.
  2. ^ab"Mid-Year Population Estimates, UK, June 2022".Office for National Statistics.26 March 2024.Retrieved3 May2024.
  3. ^"How life has changed in Ceredigion: Census 2021".Office for National Statistics.19 January 2023.Retrieved6 August2024.
  4. ^"Discover Ceredigion: Hillforts and Heroes".Ceredigion County Council.Retrieved14 April2016.
  5. ^Davies, John,A History of Wales
  6. ^"Discover Ceredigion: Pilgrims and Princes".Ceredigion County Council.Retrieved14 April2016.
  7. ^Margaret Escott (2009)."Cardiganshire; The History of Parliament: the House of Commons 1820-1832, ed. D.R. Fisher".historyofparliamentonline.org.Cambridge University Press.Retrieved26 April2012.
  8. ^Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge (1836).The Penny Cyclopaedia of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge.Charles Knight. p. 287.Retrieved26 April2012.
  9. ^Roberts, Enid Pierce (1959)."EVANS, THEOPHILUS (1693 - 1767), cleric, historian, and man of letters".Dictionary of Welsh Biography.National Library of Wales.Retrieved1 June2018.
  10. ^"Discover Ceredigion: Peace and Religion".Ceredigion County Council. Archived fromthe originalon 23 April 2016.Retrieved14 April2016.
  11. ^Lloyd, Thomas; Orbach, Julian; Scourfield, Robert (2006).Carmarthenshire and Ceredigion.Yale University Press. pp. 2–3.ISBN0-300-10179-1.
  12. ^abSchaefer, Christina K. (1999).Instant Information on the Internet!: A Genealogist's No-frills Guide to the British Isles.Genealogical Publishing Com. p. 51.ISBN978-0-8063-1614-7.
  13. ^ab"County Council".Cyngor Sir Ceredigion County Council. Archived fromthe originalon 20 December 2016.Retrieved14 April2016.
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  16. ^"Welsh speakers by local authority and broader age groups, 2001 and 2011 census".statswales.gov.wales.Retrieved4 June2023.
  17. ^abcdeNienaber, Birte (2016).Globalization and Europe's Rural Regions.Routledge. pp. 76–83.ISBN978-1-317-12709-3.
  18. ^abcPhilip's (1994).Atlas of the World.Reed International. pp. 16–17.ISBN0-540-05831-9.
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  20. ^"Cardiganshire Coast & Country".Retrieved20 September2014.
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  23. ^abHall, Derek R.; Kirkpatrick, Irene (2005).Rural Tourism and Sustainable Business.Channel View Publications. pp. 236–237.ISBN978-1-84541-335-4.
  24. ^Wade, William; Forsyth, Christopher (2014).Administrative Law.Oxford University Press. pp. 91–92.ISBN978-0-19-968370-3.
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  26. ^"Hansard: Written Answers".UK Parliament.2 April 1996.Retrieved3 October2022.
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  29. ^"Gains for Plaid in Ceredigion".BBC News.11 June 2004.Retrieved12 April2016.
  30. ^"Your Councillors".council.ceredigion.gov.uk.27 July 2024.Retrieved27 July2024.
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  32. ^"2023 Parliamentary Review - Revised Proposals | Boundary Commission for Wales".Boundary Commission for Wales.Retrieved20 June2023.
  33. ^"Election for a Member of - Ceredigion County Council".ceredigion.gov.uk.Retrieved27 July2024.
  34. ^"Ceredigion Preseli - General election results 2024".BBC News.Retrieved27 July2024.
  35. ^Morgan, K. O. (1967). "Cardiganshire politics: the Liberal ascendancy, 1885–1923".Journal of the Cardiganshire Antiquarian Society.5(4): 314–18, 319–20.S2CID157863376.
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  38. ^Cloke, Paul; Crang, Philip; Goodwin, Mark (2013).Introducing Human Geographies, Second Edition.Routledge. p. 522.ISBN978-1-4441-6980-5.
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  40. ^"Internal Fire: Museum of Power".Retrieved18 April2016.
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  43. ^"Cardigan Castle".Retrieved18 April2016.
  44. ^"Strata Florida Project".University of Wales Trinity Saint David.Retrieved18 April2016.
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  46. ^"Ceredigion Coast Path".Ceredigion County Council. Archived fromthe originalon 27 April 2016.Retrieved14 April2016.
  47. ^The Dylan Thomas Trailby D. N. Thomas, Y Lolfa 2002
  48. ^"Game Fishing on the River Teifi, Carmarthenshire".Visit Wales.Retrieved27 November2019.
  49. ^"River Teifi salmon shortage reaching 'crisis point'".BBC News.31 March 2017.Retrieved27 November2019.
  50. ^"Llandysul Paddlers".Retrieved16 April2016.
  51. ^"Club honours".Aberystwyth Town Football Club. Archived fromthe originalon 14 April 2016.Retrieved16 April2016.
  52. ^"Cardigan Town Football Club: History".Cardigan Town Football Club.Retrieved16 April2016.
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  57. ^"West Wales Airport".Retrieved11 April2016.
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Bibliography

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Wikivoyage has a travel guide forCeredigion.
Wikimedia Commons has media related toCeredigion.
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Ceredigion&oldid=1256120248"