Charmeuse(/ʃɑːrˈmuːz,-ˈmuːs/;French:[ʃaʁmøz];Frenchfor 'female charmer') is a lightweightfabricwoven with asatin weave.These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, shiny finish, whereas the back has a dull finish. Charmeuse differs from plainsatinin that charmeuse has a different ratio of float (face) threads, and is of a lighter weight. Charmeuse may be made ofsilk,polyester,orrayon.Charmeuse woven fromblended fibershas also become more common. It is used in women's clothing such aslingerie,evening gowns,and blouses, especially garments with abiascut. It is occasionally used in menswear.
Characteristics
editCharmeuse is lightweight and drapes easily.[1]It has a satin side, which is shiny, and a matte side, which is dull.[2][1]
It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive and delicate but is softer and a betterinsulator.[3]
Polyester charmeuse has characteristics that are undesirable for sewing, including a tendency to pucker at theseams[4]and fraying during cutting and handling.[2]Polyester charmeuse is cheaper and can often withstandmachine washing.It can be a challenging fabric to sew; it tends to be slippery and may be difficult to control through thepresser footof asewing machine.Pinscan make holes and marks in polyester charmeuse, so sharp dressmaker's pins, with a smooth taper to the point, are used when sewing charmeuse garments. Asizingproduct may be sprayed on charmeuse before cutting.
History
editA rudimentary charmeuse was first found to be made in China, dating back to 3630 BCE. It was originally made of silk and reserved for the upper class, but charmeuse eventually made its way to Europe and remained popular through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. The modern fabric that we associate with the name Charmeuse, however, was further developed in France by tailors and dressmakers.
Uses
editThe luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited tolingerie,flowingevening gowns,and draped blouses.Bridal gownssometimes use charmeuse. Because the fabric does not hold a shape well and tends to cling and hang against the body, it is not used for full, flared skirts. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinkybias cut.
Its uses in menswear include the lining ofjacketsandslacks,handkerchiefs,ties,and underwear such as charmeuseboxer shorts.
The look of charmeuse is prized for dressy garments, especially when cut on the bias, a technique used to create garments that flow well on the body.
Charmeuse is also the required material for the outer layer of Olympic competition ski jumper suits.[5]
References
edit- ^ab"What Is Satin Fabric? A Guide to the Types, Characteristics, and Uses for Satin".Masterclass.2 July 2019.Retrieved9 July2020.
- ^abThe Mood Guide to Fabric and Fashion: The Essential Guide from the World's Most Famous Fabric Store.ABRAMS. 2015.ISBN9781613128725.Retrieved9 July2020.
- ^"Colored Satin Charmeuse".The Montreal Daily Mail.November 2, 1914.
- ^Betzina, Sandra (2004).More Fabric Savvy: A Quick Resource Guide to Selecting and Sewing Fabric.Taunton Press. pp. 28–29.ISBN9781561586622.Retrieved9 July2020.
- ^"Specifications for Competition Equipment"(PDF).fis-ski.com.Archived(PDF)from the original on 2021-01-28.Retrieved27 February2021.
6. Sewport Support Team (2021, Oct. 10). What is Charmeuse Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where. Sewport. Retrieved on Oct. 21, 2021 fromhttps://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/charmeuse-fabric