Thedupattā,also calledchunni,chunari,chundari,lugda,rao/rawo, gandhi, pothi,orna,andodhniis a longshawl-like scarf traditionally worn by women in theIndian subcontinent.[1]Traditionally, in India, the dupatta is part of the women'slehengaor ghagra/chaniya choli. A lehenga is a three-piece outfit which is made up of a skirt, called a ghagra or chaniya; a blouse, called a choli, and a dupatta. The dupatta is worn over one shoulder, and traditionally, married women would also wear the dupatta over the head in temples or in front of elders.

Indian village women wearing Odhni withGhagra choli

The dupatta is also worn as part of theshalwar kameezwhich is worn by women in South Asia, particularly in parts of Northern India andDeccanregion. ThePunjabi suitis worn in Punjab and Pakistan, it is another three piece outfit made up of trousers, called pyjama or salwar; a top, called a kurta or kameez, and the dupatta.

Etymology

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TheHindi-Urduworddupattā(दुपट्टा, دوپٹہ),[2]meaning "shawl of doubled cloth," stemming fromSanskrit,is a combination ofdu-(meaning "two", from Sanskritdvau,"two", anddvi-,combining form ofdvauandpaṭṭā(meaning "strip of cloth," frompaṭṭaḥ),[3]i. e., stole.

History

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Dancing woman wearing dupatta, detail from Kalpa Sutra manuscript, c.1300s.

Early evidence of the dupatta can be traced to theIndus valley civilization,where the sculpture of a priest-king whose left shoulder is covered with some kind of ashawl-like scarf suggests that the use of the dupatta dates back to this earlyIndic culture.[4][5] EarlySanskritliterature has a wide vocabulary of terms for theveilsand scarfs used by women during the ancient period, such asavagunthana(cloak-veil),uttariya(shoulder-veil),mukha-pata(face-veil), andsiro-vastra(head-veil).[6]The dupatta is believed to have evolved from the ancientuttariya.[7][8][9]

Deccaniroyal court attire dupattas on display at Chowmahalla Palace.
Hyderabadilady wearing a dupatta in distinct style calledKhada Dupatta,20th century.[10]

The dupatta is worn in many regional styles across South Asia. There is no single way of wearing the dupatta, and as time evolves and fashion modernizes, the style of the dupatta has also evolved.

A dupatta is traditionally worn over the left shoulder in India, and tucked in to a skirt on the opposite side. However, the dupatta can be free hanging over the shoulder, or, across the neck and behind both shoulders. A modern variation is to allow the length of the dupatta to drape elegantly around the waist and through the arms at the front. The material for the dupatta varies, but it is normally light and long, allowing for flow and variation.

When the dupatta is worn with theshalwar kameez,it covers the chest, creating a U or V shape.[citation needed] In addition to wearing the dupatta when going out in public, South Asian women wear the dupatta as a veil when entering amandir,church,gurdwara.[11][12][13]In the context of theCOVID-19 pandemic,it was not considered proper for use as a cloth face mask as it is a religious cloth.[14]

A dupatta used as a covering for the head and face is called aghoonghat.It was customary for new brides to wear a ghoonghat to protect them from the evil eye. In Nepal a dupatta or similar shawl is called apachaura.[15]

Types of Dupatta

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There are rich variety of dupattas thatIndiahas to offer, each with its own unique style and cultural significance. From the vibrant Phulkari dupattas ofPunjabto the intricate Banarasi silk dupattas, there's something for everyone to enjoy and incorporate into their wardrobe.[16]

  1. Phulkari Dupattas:These colorful creations bring the essence of Punjab's traditional fashion to life with their intricate floral embroidery, adding a burst of color to any outfit.
  2. Bandhani or Bandhej Dupattas:Originating fromGujaratandRajasthan,these tie-dye dupattas feature classic motifs and vibrant colors, perfect for those who appreciate traditional craftsmanship.
  3. Banarasi Silk Dupattas:Exuding elegance and opulence, Banarasisilkdupattas are adorned with exquisitezaribrocadework and traditional motifs, making them a timeless symbol of luxury.
  4. Printed Dupattas:Offering a blend of traditional appeal and contemporary patterns, printed dupattas are versatile and can be paired with a variety of outfits, adding a touch of chic style.
  5. Velvet Dupattas:Luxuriousand sophisticated, velvet dupattas are embellished with classic elements likezariand Zardozi, making them perfect for creating stylish and refined looks.[17]

Each type of dupatta has its own charm and beauty, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of India. Whether worn with a simple kurta or a glamorous saree, dupattas truly add a touch of elegance and tradition to any ensemble.

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References

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  1. ^de-Gaia, Susan (16 November 2018).Encyclopedia of Women in World Religions: Faith and Culture across History [2 volumes].ABC-CLIO. p. 47.ISBN978-1-4408-4850-6.Dupatta: A long scarf that is loosely draped over the head and shoulders, commonly worn in South Asia.
  2. ^"Meaning of dupatta".Rekhta.Retrieved20 May2022.
  3. ^"American Heritage Dictionary Entry: dupatta".www.ahdictionary.com.Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. 2014.Retrieved2015-05-12.
  4. ^Singh, Upinder (2008).A History of Ancient and Early medieval India: from the Stone Age to the 12th century.New Delhi: Pearson Education. p. 137.ISBN9788131711200.
  5. ^Condra, Jill (2008).The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History.Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press. p. 220.ISBN978-0-313-33662-1.
  6. ^Govind Sadashiv Ghurye (1951) "Indian Costume.", p.236
  7. ^Simmi Jain (2003).Encyclopaedia of Indian Women Through the Ages: The middle ages,p.200
  8. ^Anupa Pande (2002).The Buddhist Cave Paintings of Bagh,p.49
  9. ^Prachya Pratibha (1978).Prachya Pratibha,Volume 6, p.121
  10. ^Nanisetti, Serish (10 November 2018)."Living Hyderabad: The khada dupatta".The Hindu.
  11. ^Goldman, Ann; Hain, Richard; Liben, Ann Goldman Richard Hain Stephen (2006).Ox Textbook Palliat Care Child Oxt:ncs C.Oxford University Press. p. 224.ISBN9780198526537.Retrieved13 November2012.
  12. ^"Dupatta Types In Salwar Kameez".The Fashion Station. 18 July 2019.Retrieved20 May2022.Dupatta is also used by some women when entering a mosque, dargah, church, gurdwara or mandir, it is the habit in the Indian subcontinent for women to cover their head with a dupatta.
  13. ^Rader, Debra (19 April 2018).Teaching and Learning for Intercultural Understanding: Engaging Young Hearts and Minds.Routledge. p. 132.ISBN978-1-351-59523-0.Colourful dupattas and salwar kameez are very common among both the Muslim and non-Muslim women of Pakistan, India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka.
  14. ^"For women, dupattas turn protective gear".Times of India. 1 April 2020.
  15. ^"Shawl | British Museum".
  16. ^"Types of Dupatta: Find Beauty in Simplicity".www.exoticindiaart.com.Retrieved2024-04-04.
  17. ^"Types of Dupatta: Find Beauty in Simplicity".www.exoticindiaart.com.Retrieved2024-04-04.
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