Ahatis ahead coveringwhich is worn for various reasons, including protection against weather conditions, ceremonial reasons such as university graduation, religious reasons, safety, or as afashion accessory.[1]Hats which incorporate mechanical features, such as visors, spikes, flaps,bracesorbeer holdersshade into the broader category ofheadgear.

A collection of 18th and 19th centuries men's beaver felt hats
Woman in a Flowered Hat(1889), byPierre-Auguste Renoir:Straw hat with brim decorated with cloth flowers and ribbons

In the past, hats were an indicator ofsocial status.[2]In themilitary,hats may denote nationality, branch of service, rank orregiment.[3]Police typically wear distinctive hats such aspeaked capsorbrimmed hats,such as those worn by theRoyal Canadian Mounted Police.Some hats have a protective function. As examples, thehard hatprotects construction workers' heads from injury by falling objects, a British policeCustodian helmetprotects the officer's head, asun hatshades the face and shoulders from the sun, acowboy hatprotects against sun and rain and anushankafur hat with fold-down earflaps keeps the head and ears warm. Some hats are worn for ceremonial purposes, such as themortarboard,which is worn (or carried) during university graduation ceremonies. Some hats are worn by members of a certain profession, such as theToqueworn by chefs, or themitreworn by Christianbishops.Adherents of certain religions regularly wear hats, such as theturbanworn bySikhs,or thechurch hatthat is worn as aheadcovering by Christian womenduring prayer and worship.[4]

History

The 27,000-to-30,000-year-oldVenus of Willendorfmay depict a woman wearing a woven hat.

While there are not many official records of hats before 3,000 BC, they probably were commonplace before that. The 27,000-to-30,000-year-oldVenus of Willendorffigurine may depict a woman wearing a woven hat.[5]One of the earliest known confirmed hats was worn by aBronze Ageman (nicknamedÖtzi) whose body (including his hat) was found frozen in a mountain between Austria and Italy, where he had been since around 3250 BC. He was found wearing a bearskin cap with a chin strap, made of several hides stitched together, essentially resembling a Russian fur hat without the flaps.[6][7][8]

One of the first pictorial depictions of a hat appears in a tomb painting fromThebes, Egypt,which shows a man wearing a conical straw hat, dated to around 3200 BC. Hats were commonly worn in ancient Egypt. Many upper-class Egyptiansshaved their heads,then covered it in aheaddressintended to help them keep cool. Ancient Mesopotamians often wore conical hats or ones shaped somewhat like an inverted vase.

Hats as an indicator of social status: aforeman(with horse) wears a hat of greater height than the accompanyinginquilino(1821Chile).

Other early hats include thePileus,a simple skull-like cap; thePhrygian cap,worn by freed slaves in Greece and Rome (which became iconic in America during theRevolutionary Warand theFrench Revolution,as a symbol of the struggle for liberty against the Monarchy); and the Greekpetasos,the first known hat with a brim. Women wore veils, kerchiefs, hoods, caps andwimples.

Like Ötzi, theTollund Manwas preserved to the present day with a hat on, probably having died around 400 BC in a Danish bog, which mummified him. He wore a pointed cap made of sheepskin and wool, fastened under the chin by a hide thong.[9]

St. Clement,thepatron saintoffelthatmakers,is said to have discovered felt when he filled his sandals withflaxfibers to protect his feet, around 800 AD.[10]

In the Middle Ages, hats were a marker of social status and used to single out certain groups. The 1215Fourth Council of the Lateranrequired that all Jews identify themselves by wearing theJudenhat( "Jewish hat" ), marking them as targets foranti-Semitism.[11]The hats were usuallyyellowand were either pointed or square.[12]

Carle Vernet's 1796 painting showing two decadent French "Incredibles"greeting each other, one with what appears to be a top hat, perhaps its first recorded appearance.

In the Middle Ages, hats for women ranged from simple scarves to elaboratehennin,[13]and denoted social status. Structured hats for women similar to those of male courtiers began to be worn in the late 16th century.[14]The term 'milliner' comes from the Italian city ofMilan,where the best quality hats were made in the 18th century. Millinery was traditionally a woman's occupation, with the milliner not only creating hats and bonnets but also choosing lace, trimmings and accessories to complete an outfit.[15]

Left-to-right:Top-hat,peaked cap,Borsalino,bowler hat(Sweden, early 20th century).

In the first half of the 19th century, women wore bonnets that gradually became larger, decorated with ribbons, flowers, feathers, and gauzetrims.By the end of the century, many other styles were introduced, among them hats with wide brims and flat crowns, the flower pot and the toque. By the middle of the 1920s, when women began to cut their hair short, they chose hats that hugged the head like a helmet.[14]

The tradition of wearing hats tohorse racingevents began at theRoyal Ascotin Britain, which maintains a strict dress code. All guests in the Royal Enclosure must wear hats.[16]This tradition was adopted at other horse racing events, such as theKentucky Derbyin the United States.[17]

Extravagant hats were popular in the 1980s, and in the early 21st century, flamboyant hats made a comeback, with a new wave of competitive young milliners designing creations that include turban caps,trompe-l'œil-effect felt hats and tall headpieces made of human hair. Some new hat collections have been described as "wearable sculpture". Many pop stars, among themLady Gaga,have commissioned hats as publicity stunts.[18]

A hat shop from about 1900 inside theRoscheider Hof Open Air Museum.

Famous hatmakers

One of the most famous London hatters isJames Lock & Co.ofSt James's Street.[19]The shop claims to be the oldest operating hat shop in the world.[20]Another was Sharp & Davis of 6Fish Street Hill.[21]In the late 20th century, museums credited London-basedDavid Shillingwith reinventing hats worldwide. NotableBelgianhat designers areElvis Pompilioand Fabienne Delvigne (Royal warrant of appointment holder), whose hats are worn by European royals.[22]Philip TreacyOBEis an Irish milliner whose hats have been commissioned by top designers[23]and worn at royal weddings.[24]In North America, the well-known cowboy-hat manufacturerStetsonmade the headgear for theRoyal Canadian Mounted Policeand theTexas Rangers.[25]John Cavanaghwas one of the notable American hatters.[26]Italian hat makerBorsalinohas covered the heads of Hollywood stars and the world's rich and famous.[27]

Collections

The Philippi Collectionis a collection of religious headgear assembled by a German entrepreneur, Dieter Philippi, located inKirkel.[28]The collection features over 500 hats,[29]and is currently the world's largest collection of clerical, ecclesiastical and religious head coverings.[30]

Styles

This is a short list of some common and iconic examples of hats. There is a longer version atList of hat styles

Image Name Description
Ascot cap A hard, men's cap, similar to the flat cap, but distinguished by its hardness and rounded shape
Balmoral bonnet Traditional Scottish bonnet or cap worn with ScottishHighland dress
Baseball cap A type of soft, light, wool or cotton cap with a rounded crown and a stiff, frontward-projecting brim
Beanie (North America) A brimless cap, made from triangular panels of material joined by a button at the crown and seamed together around the sides, with or without a smallvisor,once popular among schoolboys. Sometimes includes a propeller.
In New Zealand, Australia, the United Kingdom and some parts of the United States,beanierefers to theknit cap.
Bearskin The tall, furry hat of theBrigade of Guards'full-dressuniform, originally designed to protect them against sword-cuts, etc. Commonly seen atBuckingham PalaceinLondon,England.Sometimes mistakenly identified as abusby.
Beret A soft, round cap, usually of woollen felt, with a bulging flat crown and tight-fitting brimless headband. Worn by both men and women and traditionally associated withBasque people,France,and the military.
Bicorne A broad-brimmed, felt hat with brim folded up and pinned front and back to create a long-horned shape. Also known as acocked hat.Worn by European military officers in the 1790s and, as illustrated, commonly associated withNapoleon.
Bowler / Derby A hard, felt hat with a rounded crown, created in 1850 by Lock's ofSt James's,thehattersto Thomas Coke, 2ndEarl of Leicester,for his servants. More commonly known as aderbyin the United States.
Buntal A traditionalstraw hatfrom the Philippines woven from fibers extracted fromburi palms
Chullo PeruvianorBolivianhat with ear-flaps made fromvicuña,alpaca,llamaor sheep's wool[31]
Cloche hat Abell-shaped ladies' hat that was popular during theRoaring Twenties(Cloche hat as worn by silent film starVilma Bánky,1927)
Cricket cap A type of soft cap traditionally worn bycricketplayers (Sid Barneswith his Australian cap)
Cordovan hat A traditional flat-brimmed and flat-topped hat originating fromCórdoba, Spain,associated withflamenco dancing and musicand popularized by characters such asZorro
Conical Asian hat Aconicalstraw hat associated with East and Southeast Asia. Sometimes known as a "coolie hat", although the term "coolie" may be interpreted as derogatory.[32][33]
Coonskin cap A hat of the indigenous peoples of the Appalachian region, fashioned from the skin and fur of araccoon,that became associated with Canadian andAmerican frontiersmenof the 18th and 19th centuries
Cowboy hat A high-crowned, wide-brimmed hat, with a sweatband on the inside, and a decorative hat band on the outside. Early models such as theBoss of the Plainscould be customized by creasing the crown and rolling the brim.[34]
Custodian helmet Ahelmettraditionally worn byBritish police constableswhile on foot patrol
Deerstalker A warm, close-fittingtweedcap, with brims front and behind and ear-flaps that can be tied together either over the crown or under the chin. Originally designed for use whilehunting intheclimate of Scotland.Worn by – and so closely associated with – the characterSherlock Holmes.
Fedora A soft, felt hat with a medium brim and lengthwise crease in the crown
Fez Red felt hat in the shape of a truncated cone, common to Arab-speaking countries
Fulani hat A conical, plant-fiber hat covered in leather both at the brim and top, worn by men of the Fulani people in West Africa
Hard hat A rounded, rigid helmet with a small brim, predominantly used in workplace environments, such as construction sites, to protect the head from injury by falling objects, debris and bad weather
Homburg A semi-formal hat of fur felt, with a single dent running down the centre of the crown, a wide silk grosgrain hatband ribbon, a flat brim shaped in a "pencil curl", and a ribbon-bound trim about the edge of the brim (Winston Churchillwearing a homburg)
Keffiyeh Three piece ensemble consisting of athagiyahskullcap,gutrahscarf, andagalblack cord. Gutrahs are plain white or patterned, denoting ethnic or national identities.[citation needed].(Sultan bin Abdulaziz, Crown Prince of Saudi ArabiawearingKeffiyeh)
Kippah A hemispherical cap worn by Jews to fulfill the customary requirement held by halachic authorities that the head be covered at all times (IDFsoldier, Lt.Asael Lubotzky,prays withkippahandtefillin.)
Knit cap A knitted hat, worn in winter, usually made from wool or acrylic. In New Zealand, Australia, the United Kingdom and some parts of the United States, the termbeanieis applied to this cap, while in Canada it is known as atuque.
Kufi A brimless, short, rounded cap worn by Africans and people throughout the African diaspora (Umaru Yar'Adua,President of Nigeria)
Mitre Distinctive hat worn by bishops in theRoman Catholic Church,Eastern Orthodox Church,theLutheran Churchesand theAnglican Communion(Pope Benedict XVI)
Montera A crocheted hat worn bybullfighters
Panama Straw hat made inEcuador
Phrygian cap A soft conical cap, pulled forward. In sculpture, paintings and caricatures it represents freedom and the pursuit of liberty. The popular cartoon charactersthe Smurfswear white or red Phrygian caps.
Pillbox hat A small hat with straight, upright sides, a flatcrown,and no brim. (ActressDoris Daywearing apillbox hatin 1960)
Pith helmet A lightweight, rigid, cloth-covered helmet made of cork or pith, with brims front and back. Worn by Europeans in tropical colonies in the 1800s.
Rastacap A tall, round, usually crocheted and brightly colored cap worn byRastafariansand others with dreadlocks to tuck their locks away
Rogatywka An asymmetrical, peaked, four-pointed cap used by various Polish military units throughout the ages
Santa hat A floppy, pointed, redstocking cap,trimmed in white fur, traditionally associated withChristmas
Sombrero A Mexican hat with a conical crown and a very wide, saucer-shaped brim, highly embroidered and made of plush felt
Tam o'Shanter A traditional flat, roundScottishcap usually worn by men (in the British military sometimes abbreviatedToS)
Top hat Also known as abeaver hat,amagician's hat,or, in the case of the tallest examples, astovepipe hat.A tall, flat-crowned, cylindrical hat worn by men in the 19th and early 20th centuries, now worn only with morning dress or evening dress. Cartoon charactersUncle SamandMr. Monopolyare often depicted wearing such hats. Once made from felted beaver fur.
Toque A tall, pleated, brimless, cylindrical hat, informally, known as achef's hat
Tricorne A soft hat with a low crown and broad brim, pinned up on either side of the head and at the back, producing a triangular shape. Worn by Europeans in the 18th century. Larger, taller, and heavily ornamented brims were present in France and thePapal States.
Turban A headdress consisting of a scarf-like single piece of cloth wound around either the head itself or an inner hat
Ushanka A Russian fur hat with fold-down ear-flaps
Zucchetto Skullcap worn by clerics, typically in Roman Catholicism

Size

Hat sizes are determined by measuring thecircumferenceof a person's head about1 centimetre (25in) above the ears. Inches or centimeters may be used depending on the manufacturer.Felthats can be stretched for a custom fit. Some hats, likehard hatsandbaseball caps,are adjustable. Cheaper hats come in "standard sizes", such as small, medium, large, extra large: the mapping of measured size to the various "standard sizes" varies from maker to maker and style to style, as can be seen by studying various catalogues, such asHammacher Schlemmer.[35]

Hat sizes[citation needed]
size Youth S/M Youth L/XL XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Age (years) 0 12 1 1+12 2
Circumference in cm 34 43 47 48 49 50 51–52 53–54 55–56 57–58 59–60 61–62 63–64 65–66
Circumference in inches 13+38 17 18+12 18+34 19+14 19+34 20+1820+12 20+5821+14 21+58–22 2212–2278 2314–2358 24–2438 2434–2514 25–26
UK hat size 5 534 6–618 614–638 612–658 634–678 7–718 714–738 712–758 734–778 8–818
US hat size 578 6 618 614 638–612 658–634 678–7 718–714 738–712 758–734 778–8 818–814
French hat size 0 12 1 112 2–212 3–312 4–412 5–512 6–612 7–712 8–812 9–912

US hat size is a measurement of head diameter in inches. It can be computed from a measurement of circumference in centimeters by dividing by 8, because multiplying 2.54 (the number of centimeters per inch) byπ(the multiplier to give circumference from diameter) is almost exactly 8.

See also

References

  1. ^Pauline Thomas (2007-09-08)."The Wearing of Hats Fashion History".Fashion-era.com.Retrieved2011-07-02.
  2. ^"The social meanings of hats".University of Chicago Press.Retrieved2011-07-02.
  3. ^"Insignia:The Way You Tell Who's Who in the Military".United States Department of Defense.Archived fromthe originalon 2012-04-14.Retrieved2011-07-02.
  4. ^"What are Church Hats?".Southern Living.Southern Living.Archived fromthe originalon 14 May 2021.Retrieved10 May2022.Church hats have been a key part of churchgoers' Sunday best for years, and are still an important aspect of dress in some churches today. The practice of covering one's head for church originally came from the Bible—1 Corinthians 11:15, to be precise. The simple head covering has been adapted and expanded to become a stylish part of Southern women's churchgoing attire. At the turn of the century, many Southern ladies wore simple hats to church out of respect, reverence for the service, and continuity with passed-down traditions. The church hat tradition continues today, with hats—sometimes called crowns—in bright colors, bold patterns, and eye-catching styles at Sunday services across the South.
  5. ^"BBC News | SCI/TECH | World's oldest hat revealed".news.bbc.co.uk.Retrieved2018-09-25.
  6. ^Davis, Nicola (30 August 2016)."It becometh the iceman: clothing study reveals stylish secrets of leather-loving ancient".The Guardian.Archivedfrom the original on 30 August 2016.Retrieved30 August2016.
  7. ^Romey, Kristin (18 August 2016)."Here's What the Iceman Was Wearing When He Died 5,300 Years Ago".National Geographic.Archived fromthe originalon 19 August 2016.Retrieved18 August2016.
  8. ^O’Sullivan, Niall J.; Teasdale, Matthew D.; Mattiangeli, Valeria; Maixner, Frank; Pinhasi, Ron; Bradley, Daniel G.; Zink, Albert (18 August 2016)."A whole mitochondria analysis of the Tyrolean Iceman's leather provides insights into the animal sources of Copper Age clothing".Scientific Reports.6:31279.Bibcode:2016NatSR...631279O.doi:10.1038/srep31279.ISSN2045-2322.PMC4989873.PMID27537861.
  9. ^"The Tollund Man – Appearance".The Tollund Man – A face from prehistoric Denmark.2004. Archived fromthe originalon 2011-07-19.Retrieved2016-09-30.
  10. ^"History of Hats".Hatsandcaps.co.uk.Retrieved2011-07-02.
  11. ^Waldman, Katy (2013-10-17)."The history of the witch's hat".Slate.com.Retrieved2014-03-26.
  12. ^Johnston, Ruth A. (2011).All Things Medieval: An Encyclopedia of the Medieval World.ABC-CLIO.Retrieved2014-03-26.
  13. ^Vibbert, Marie,Headdresses of the 14th and 15th Centuries,No. 133, SCA monograph series (August 2006)
  14. ^ab"Hat history".Hatsuk.com. Archived fromthe originalon 2000-09-14.Retrieved2012-01-07.
  15. ^"History of Women's Hats".Vintagefashionguild.org.Retrieved2012-01-07.
  16. ^Lauren Turner (2012-06-21)."New dress code a hit at Ascots' Ladies Day".Independent.co.uk.Archivedfrom the original on 2022-05-09.Retrieved2013-08-29.
  17. ^"Hats in History: The Kentucky Derby".Hats-plus.com. 2012-04-28. Archived fromthe originalon 2013-08-19.Retrieved2013-08-29.
  18. ^Young, Robb (3 October 2011)."Millinery Madness: Hat Makers With Attitude".The New York Times.Archivedfrom the original on 2017-06-30.Retrieved2017-02-27.
  19. ^See Whitbourn, F.: 'Mr Lock of St James's St Heinemann, 1971.
  20. ^Mitic, Ginanne Brownell (30 March 2016)."Centuries of hats".The New York Times.Archivedfrom the original on 2017-12-28.Retrieved2017-02-27.
  21. ^For an account of the Sharp family's hat-making business, see Knapman, D. – 'Conversation Sharp – The Biography of a London Gentleman,Richard Sharp(1759–1835), in Letters, Prose and Verse'. [Private Publication, 2004]. British Library.
  22. ^"Brussels life".Brusselslife.be.Retrieved2013-04-15.
  23. ^"Philip Treacy 'Hatforms' at IMMA Thursday".Raidió Teilifís Éireann.5 April 2001. Archived fromthe originalon August 17, 2012.Retrieved11 December2010.
  24. ^Philip Treacy: King of Royal wedding hatsArchived2011-08-31 at theWayback MachineIrish Independent,2011-04-29
  25. ^Snyder, Jeffrey B. (1997).Stetson Hats and the John B. Stetson Company 1865–1970.Atglen: Schiffer. p. 57.ISBN0-7643-0211-6.
  26. ^"Cavanagh Hats".Bernard Hats.22 June 2014.Retrieved2019-12-06.
  27. ^Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia,Beverly Chico, ABC-CLIO, 03.10.2013, p. 155.
  28. ^"Neue Zürcher Zeitung FOLIO".Nzzfolio.ch. 2011-02-08.Retrieved2012-01-07.
  29. ^Smoltczyk, Alexander (4 December 2009)."Der Spiegel".Spiegel.de.Retrieved2012-01-07.
  30. ^"Philippi Collection".Philippi-collection.blogspot.com. 2011-11-23.Retrieved2012-01-07.
  31. ^Klinkenborg, Verlyn (2009-02-03)."Season of the chullo".International Herald Tribune. Archived fromthe originalon January 30, 2009.Retrieved2011-07-02.
  32. ^"Malema under fire over slur on Indians".News24. 2011-10-20.Retrieved2013-06-16.
  33. ^Most current dictionaries do not record any offensive meaning ( "an unskilled laborer or porter usually in or from India hired for low or subsistence wages"Merriam-WebsterArchived2008-01-26 at theWayback Machine) or make a distinction between an offensive meaning in referring to "a person from the Indian subcontinent or of Indian descent" and an at least originally inoffensive, old-fashioned meaning, for example "datedan unskilled native labourer in India, China, and some other Asian countries "(Compact Oxford English Dictionary). However, some dictionaries indicate that the word may be considered offensive in all contexts today. For example,LongmanArchived2006-11-27 at theWayback Machine's 1995 edition had "old-fashionedan unskilled worker who is paid very low wages, especially in parts of Asia ", but the current version adds"taboo old-fashioneda very offensive word... Do not use this word ".
  34. ^Snyder, Jeffrey B. (1997).StetsonHats and the John B. Stetson Company 1865–1970.Atglen: Schiffer. p. 5.ISBN0-7643-0211-6.
  35. ^"Helmet sizes".Enduroworld.com.au. Archived fromthe originalon March 25, 2012.
  36. ^"Hat, British, 17th century".Metropolitan Museum of Artwebsite.
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