Milena CanoneroOMRI(born 1 January 1946) is an Italiancostume designer,production designer,andfilm producer.In a career spanning over five decades, she is recognized for her prolific work across stage and screen. She has received numerous accolades, including fourAcademy Awards,threeBAFTA Awards,and aDavid di Donatello Award.She has been the recipient of various honorary awards, including theHonorary Golden Bearin 2017.
Milena Canonero | |
|---|---|
 Canonero in 2017 | |
| Born | 1 January 1946 Turin,Kingdom of Italy |
| Occupations | |
| Years active | 1971–present |
| Spouse | |
Canonero is best known for her collaborations with directorsStanley Kubrick,Francis Ford Coppola,andWes Anderson.She has received nine nominations for theAcademy Award for Best Costume Designand has won four times forBarry Lyndon(1975),Chariots of Fire(1981),Marie Antoinette(2006), andThe Grand Budapest Hotel(2014).
Early life and education
editCanonero was born inTurin,Italy. She attended university inGenoa,studying fashion, period design, and art history before moving to England in the late 1960's to complete her studies.[1]She designed for friends' boutiques inLondonand began assisting in commercials, meeting many filmmakers along the way, including directorHugh Hudson.[2]He gave Canonero her first break on his short film, which was shot on location inSicily.She was involved in all aspects of the production and found the entire process captivating.[1]By chance, Canonero was also invited to watchStanley Kubrickshoot parts of the landmark2001: A Space Odyssey(1968), and the director asked her to collaborate with him on his next feature film.[2]
Career
editCanonero received her first major screen credits for designing costumes for Kubrick's dystopian classicA Clockwork Orange(1971). She created an instantly recognizable character's wardrobe that perfectly captures the film's discourse on class, money, and power through provoking aesthetics, which has since become an enduring inspiration for fashion icons and designers.[3]Canonero continued her professional relationship with the director on the epic period dramaBarry Lyndon(1975). During an extensive preproduction period, she and Swedish costume designerUlla-Britt Söderlundexamined original 18th-century attire at London'sVictoria and Albert Museumand copied patterns from the collection to produce authentic-looking film garments.[1]They also drew inspiration from period-defining art, including portraits byThomas GainsboroughandJoshua Reynolds,genre paintings byJean Siméon Chardin,as well as the bawdy paintings byWilliam Hogarth,among others.[1]Those remarkable efforts won them theAcademy Award for Best Costume Design.[2]ThenGeorge Lucasapproached her to design costumes for his space operaStar Wars(1977), an offer she eventually turned down and later considered the biggest missed opportunity of her career.[2]Canonero worked with Kubrick once again on the cult psychological horrorThe Shining(1980). She won her second Academy Award for another collaboration with Hudson, this time on his iconic sports dramaChariots of Fire(1981), the true story of two British athletes in the1924 Olympics.She superbly interpreted the 1920s English tweeds, blazers, and college garb to the extent of inspiring 1980s fashion trends; such great success led to an offer for Canonero to create a clothing line for men's-wear manufacturer Norman Hilton, for which she received a specialCoty Award.[2]
Canonero’s next major film wasSydney Pollack'sOut of Africa(1985), based on Danish authorKaren Blixen's autobiographicalmemoir of the same nameabout her decade-long experiences in colonial Kenya starting just before the outbreak ofWorld War I.Canonero faced a formidable challenge when tasked in a strict three-month term to research, design, and produce hundreds of costumes appropriate for a vast ensemble of characters that includes African natives, white hunters, and European nobility. It took her on an intense journey everywhere, from theNew York Public Libraryto the various museums and costume houses across England and Italy, and from theBlixen’s homein Denmark to Africa, where she met anthropologistRichard Leakey,who consulted her on less known aspects of African fashion in the 1910s, especially those regarding the ingenious groups.[4]
Beside her well-established screen career, Canonero is known for creating costumes for stage. She frequently collaborated with directorOtto Schenkon his numerous opera productions. Those includeIl trittico(Vienna State Opera,1979),As You Like It(Salzburg Festival,1980),Die Fledermaus(Vienna State Opera, 1980),Andrea Chénier(Vienna State Opera, 1981), andArabella(Metropolitan Opera,1983). She also worked with directorLuc Bondyon such productions asTosca(Metropolitan Opera, 2009) andHelena(Burgtheater,2010).
On television, Canonero designed costumes for crime drama seriesMiami Vicein the 1980s.[5]
In 2001, Canonero received the Career Achievement Award in Film from theCostume Designers Guild.In 2005, Canonero won the guild's award for excellence in contemporary film for her work onWes Anderson'sThe Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou(2004). She won her third Oscar forSofia Coppola'sMarie Antoinette(2006).
Canonero reteamed with Anderson in 2014 onThe Grand Budapest Hotel,for which she received her ninth nomination and fourth win at the87th Academy Awards.She also won a BAFTA award for her work on the film.
Personal life
editCanonero is married to actorMarshall Bell,and they live inWest Hollywood, California.
Filmography
editAwards and nominations
editMajor associations
edit| † | Indicates non-competitive categories |
| Year | Category | Nominated work | Result | Ref. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1975 | Best Costume Design | Barry Lyndon | Won | [6] |
| 1981 | Chariots of Fire | Won | [7] | |
| 1985 | Out of Africa | Nominated | [8] | |
| 1988 | Tucker: The Man and His Dream | Nominated | [9] | |
| 1990 | Dick Tracy | Nominated | [10] | |
| 1999 | Titus | Nominated | [11] | |
| 2001 | The Affair of the Necklace | Nominated | [12] | |
| 2006 | Marie Antoinette | Won | [13] | |
| 2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Won | [14] |
| Year | Category | Nominated work | Result | Ref. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| British Academy Film Awards | ||||
| 1975 | Best Costume Design | Barry Lyndon | Nominated | [15] |
| 1981 | Chariots of Fire | Won | [16] | |
| 1985 | The Cotton Club | Won | [17] | |
| 1986 | Out of Africa | Nominated | [18] | |
| 1990 | Dick Tracy | Nominated | [19] | |
| 2006 | Marie Antoinette | Nominated | [20] | |
| 2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Won | [21] | |
| 2021 | The French Dispatch | Nominated | [22] | |
Miscellaneous awards
editOther honours
edit- Grand Cross of theOrder of Merit of the Italian Republic– awarded on 21 December 2015.[48]
References
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- ^abcdeGross, Michael (February 11, 1986)."MILENA CANONERO: FASHION ON AND OFF THE BIG SCREEN".The New York Times.Archivedfrom the original on May 24, 2015.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Lazic, Elena (April 2, 2019)."A Clockwork Orange and fashion: why the droogs never go out of style".British Film Institute.Archivedfrom the original on August 29, 2021.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Goodwin, Betty (January 3, 1986)."Authenticity Sparks 'Out of Africa' Costume Designs".Los Angeles Times.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Rourke, Mary (May 23, 1986)."One of the Hottest Properties in TV Is the Costume Designer".Los Angeles Times.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^"48th Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"54th Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. March 2022.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"58th Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
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- ^"72nd Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 22 April 2015.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"74th Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 December 2015.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"79th Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 7 October 2014.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"87th Academy Awards".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 10 March 2015.RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"29th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"35th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"39th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"40th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"44th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"60th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"68th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^"75th British Academy Film Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA).RetrievedAugust 15,2023.
- ^Roxborough, Scott (January 31, 2017)."Berlin: Costume Designer Milena Canonero to Get Lifetime Achievement Honor".The Hollywood Reporter.Archivedfrom the original on July 28, 2021.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Lemercier, Fabien (23 January 2019)."10 César nominations for Sink or Swim and Custody".Cineuropa.Archivedfrom the original on February 3, 2019.Retrieved12 August2022.
- ^Tellerico, Brian (December 8, 2023)."Killers of the Flower Moon, Oppenheimer, Poor Things Lead CFCA Nominations".RogerEbert.com.Archivedfrom the original on December 8, 2023.RetrievedAugust 12,2024.
- ^Herman-Cohen, Valli (January 26, 2001)."First Lady's Dress Could Have Its Own Political Life".Los Angeles Times.Archivedfrom the original on September 24, 2024.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Thompson, Jenn (February 21, 2005)."Costume nods draped on 'Aquatic,' 'Snicket'".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on November 24, 2021.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Morfoot, Addie (January 4, 2005)."Big-budget pix sew up Costume Guild noms".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on June 16, 2020.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Stitt, Eric (January 10, 2007)."Costume designers name nominees".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on June 16, 2020.RetrievedAugust 22,2024.
- ^Raya, Anna Lisa; Pedersen, Erik (February 17, 2015)."'Birdman', 'Grand Budapest Hotel' Top Costume Designer Guild Awards: Winners List ".Deadline.Archivedfrom the original on February 18, 2015.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Lincoln, Ross A. (January 12, 2017)."'La La Land', 'Rogue One' & 'Game Of Thrones' Among 2017 Costume Designers Guild Award Nominees ".Deadline.Archivedfrom the original on January 13, 2017.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Duka, John (September 25, 1984)."COTY AWARDS: VITTADINI AND FEZZA ARE WINNERS".The New York Times.Archivedfrom the original on March 9, 2014.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Blake, Emily (January 15, 2015)."Critics' Choice Movie Awards 2015: The winners list".Entertainment Weekly.Archivedfrom the original on February 17, 2015.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Vivarelli, Nick (April 18, 2008)."'Girl by the Lake' tops David awards ".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on April 18, 2016.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Feinberg, Scott (November 6, 2014)."Hollywood Film Awards: Craft, International Winners Unveiled".The Hollywood Reporter.Archivedfrom the original on October 26, 2021.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Vivarelli, Nick (June 5, 2008)."Silver Ribbon tied to 'Whole Life'".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on September 25, 2024.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Volpe, Luca (4 June 2012)."Nastri d'argento 2012, è sfida tra Giordana e Ozpetek".Mymovies.it(in Italian).Archivedfrom the original on June 6, 2012.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^De Marco, Camillo (30 June 2014)."Human Capital wins again at the 2014 Nastri d'Argento Awards".Cineuropa.Archivedfrom the original on August 1, 2018.Retrieved12 August2022.
- ^Anderson, Erik (January 18, 2022)."Online Film Critics Society (OFCS) nominations: 'Dune,' 'The Power of the Dog,' 'West Side Story' lead".AwardsWatch.Archivedfrom the original on January 19, 2022.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Anderson, Erik (January 17, 2024)."Online Film Critics Society (OFCS) Nominations: 'Oppenheimer,' 'Killers of the Flower Moon,' 'Poor Things' Lead".AwardsWatch.Archivedfrom the original on January 17, 2024.RetrievedAugust 12,2024.
- ^"Fashion Scoops"(PDF).Women's Wear Daily.New York City:Fairchild Fashion Media.February 3, 2006. p. 5.Archived(PDF)from the original on September 7, 2024.Retrieved12 August2022.
- ^Berkshire, Geoff (December 17, 2001)."'Moulin Rouge' in orbit, topping Satellite noms ".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on January 10, 2018.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^"Satellite Awards nominations announced".Variety.December 1, 2006.Archivedfrom the original on August 1, 2015.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^Pond, Steve (February 16, 2015)."Satellite Awards: Complete Winners List".TheWrap.Archivedfrom the original on February 16, 2015.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^"The 11th Saturn Awards (1984) Nominees and Winners".Los Angeles Times.Archived fromthe originalon February 13, 2006.RetrievedJuly 22,2018.
- ^"The 17th Saturn Awards (1991) Nominees and Winners".Los Angeles Times.Archived fromthe originalon February 13, 2006.RetrievedJuly 22,2018.
- ^Bettinger, Brendan (February 24, 2011)."INCEPTION, LET ME IN, TRON, and THE WALKING DEAD Top the 2011 Saturn Award Nominations".Collider.Archivedfrom the original on October 11, 2013.RetrievedAugust 12,2022.
- ^"Canonero Sig.ra Milena".www.quirinale.it. 21 December 2015.Retrieved2018-11-20.
Further reading
edit- Fabienne Liptay (ed.),Milena Canonero.Film-Konzepte40 (edition text + kritik, 2015).
