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Noble rot(French:pourriture noble;German:Edelfäule;Italian:Muffa nobile;Hungarian:Aszúsodás) is the beneficial form of a greyfungus,Botrytis cinerea,affectingwinegrapes.[1]Infestation byBotrytisrequires warm and humid conditions, typically around 20 degrees Celsius and above 80% humidity.[2]If the weather stays wet, the undesirable form, "bunch rot" or "grey rot", adversely affects winemaking by disrupting fermentation and changing the taste, aroma, and appearance of the final wine[1][2][3]Grapes typically become infected withBotrytiswhen they are ripe. If they are then exposed to drier conditions and become partiallyraisined,this form of infection is known as noble rot. Grapes picked at a certain point during infestation can produce particularly fine and concentrated sweet wine. Wines produced by this method are known asbotrytized wines,[4]and are considered a distinct category ofdessert wines.[3]
The primary distinction between botrytized wines and other naturally sweet, non-fortified sweet wines, such as late-harvest wines,ice wines,orstraw / raisinwines, lies in the range and richness of aroma compounds generated by the Botrytis cinerea fungal infection of the grapes.[3]Significant differences are also evident in other components, like sugar alcohol and acid composition, due to microbial activity.[3]Descriptorsfrequently used for these wines highlight flavours of peach, apricot, pear, quince, raisin, and honey, along with unique "botrytis" or roti characteristics.[3][5]Additionally, a notable feature of botrytized wines is their high acid content, which prevents them from tasting cloying, even with sugar levels often exceeding 200 g/l[3]
Effect on grapes
editWhen Botrytis cinerea infects grapes, it initiates several physiological changes that are crucial for the development of noble rot wines. The fungus penetrates the grape skins while feeding on the grapes, causing microscopic wounds that lead to the evaporation of water from the berries.[5]This dehydration process concentrates the remaining sugars, acids, and flavour compounds within the grapes, resulting in a higher density of these essential components. The weight of the grapes can decrease by up to 60%, leaving behind a shrivelled, sugar-rich berry.[2]
The infection also significantly alters the chemical composition of the grapes with the concentration of sugars in the grape increasing dramatically. This high sugar content is essential for the production of the sweet wines associated with noble rot.[2]The fungus primarily consumes tartaric acid, which is more prevalent than malic or citric acid in healthy grapes, with remaining tartaric acid transformed into gluconic acid and glycerol.[5]During the infection process, the ratio of tartaric to malic acid changes, as observed in Furmint grapes used for Tokaji Aszú, where the ratio shifts from 2:1 in healthy berries to 1:3 in botrytised berries. The increased levels of citric acid and the formation of higher levels of sugar alcohols (such as glycerol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, and inositol) by the fungus contribute to the complexity and mouthfeel of botrytized wines.[1][2]The grapes metabolic stress response also leads to the production and concentration of various aromatic compounds. The berries concentrate precursors for citrus aromas like lemon and grapefruit, and also generate compounds for stone fruit aromas such as apricot and peach in a direct metabolic response to the fungal attack. Some of these aromatic characteristics, including the distinct honey aroma, are directly attributable to the botrytis fungus itself.[1][2]
The stress response of grapes to botrytis infection is similar to their response to drought. The breakdown of grape skin cells by the fungus facilitates water evaporation, intensifying the dehydration process. This stress response allows the grapes to adapt metabolically, slowing down the infection rate compared to grey rot, which spreads too quickly for the plant to respond effectively.[2]
Origins
editAccording to Hungarian legend, the firstaszú(a wine using botrytised grapes) was made by Laczkó Máté Szepsi in 1630. However, mention of wine made from botrytised grapes appears before this in theNomenklaturaof Fabricius Balázs Sziksai, which was completed in 1576. A recently discovered inventory of aszú predates this reference by five years. When vineyard classification began in 1730 in theTokajregion, one of the gradings given to the variousterroirscentered on their potential to developBotrytis cinerea.
There is a popular story that the practice originated independently inGermanyin 1775, where theRieslingproducers atSchloss Johannisberg(Geisenheim,in theRheingauregion) traditionally awaited the say-so of the estate owner,Heinrich von Bibra,Bishop ofFulda,before cutting their grapes. In this year (so the legend goes), the abbey messenger was robbed en route to delivering the order to harvest and the cutting was delayed for three weeks, time enough for thebotrytisto take hold. The grapes were presumed worthless and given to local peasants,[6]who produced a surprisingly good, sweet wine which subsequently became known asSpätlese,orlate harvest wine.In the following few years, several different classes of increasingmust weightwere introduced, and the originalSpätlesewas further elaborated, first intoAuslesein 1787[7]and laterEisweinin 1858 (although Eiswein is usually made from grapes not affected byBotrytis).[8]
Viticulture and uses
editIn some cases, inoculation occurs whensporesof the fungus are sprayed over the grapes, while some vineyards depend on natural inoculation from spores present in the environment.
The fungus perforates the grapes' skin, allowing water in the grape to evaporate during dry conditions, and thereby raising the sugar concentration in the remaining juice.
Some of the finest botrytized wines are picked berry by berry in successivetris(Frenchfor "selections" ).
Internationally renowned botrytized wines include theaszúofTokaj-HegyaljainHungary(commonly called Tokaji or Tokay),[5]SauternesfromFrance[5]– where the process is known aspourritureorpourriture noble,andBeerenausleseorTrockenbeerenauslesewines fromGermanyandAustria.[5]Other wines of this type include theRomanianGrasă de Cotnari,FrenchCoteaux du Layon,FrenchMonbazillac,AustrianAusbruch,[5]South African Noble Late Harvest (NLH) and Croatian Wine maker Vinarija Mihalj from Kutjevo (producing Mačevo brdo-Graševina). Depending on conditions, the grapes may be only minimally botrytized. Botrytized wines are also produced byCalifornian,andAustralianwinemakers.[5]
References
edit- ^abcdBlanco-Ulate, B.; Amrine, K.; Collins, T. (December 2015)."Developmental and Metabolic Plasticity of White-Skinned Grape Berries in Response toBotrytis cinereaduring Noble Rot ".Plant Physiology.169(4): 2422–2443.Bibcode:1985QuRes..23...87O.doi:10.1104/pp.15.00852.hdl:11336/10951.PMC4677888.PMID26450706.
- ^abcdefgClarke, Jim (4 September 2023)."The Science Behind Noble Rot Wines".SevenFiftyDaily.Retrieved30 June2024.
- ^abcdefMagyar, I. (2011). "Chapter 6 - Botrytized Wines".Advances in Food and Nutrition Research.63:147–206.doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-384927-4.00006-3.ISBN978-0-12-384927-4.PMID21867895.
- ^Labensky, Steven (1997).Webster's new world dictionary of culinary arts.Prentice-Hall. p.28.ISBN9780134757322.
- ^abcdefgh"Botrytis Cinerea: The Noble Rot".vinoble.org. 4 September 2023.Retrieved13 July2024.
- ^A Short History of Riesling
- ^Karen MacNeilThe Wine BibleWorkman Publishing 2001 page 540ISBN1-56305-434-5
- ^"A History of Schloss Johannisberg".Archived fromthe originalon 2012-03-04.Retrieved2010-03-25.