Patent leather

This article is about type of leather. For the beetle, seepatent-leather beetle.

Patent leatheris a type of coatedleatherthat has a high-gloss finish.

A men's black patent leather shoe

In general, patent leather is fine grain leather that is treated to give it a glossy appearance. Characterized by a glass-like finish that catches the light, patent leather comes in all colors just like regular leather. In addition to the mirror-like finish, patent leather is also virtually waterproof, while still retaining a very flexible texture. The visual aspects of patent leather have made it a sought-after material for formal accessories.

Patent leather and poromerics are used in applications where an eye-catching glossy appearance is the most important consideration. Examples include fashion items such aswalletsandhandbags,danceanduniformshoes,thigh-high bootsandprofessional wrestlingboots, belts andtrench coats.In recent years patent leather has become a popular material for limited-editionsneakers.

Originally alacquercoating that was based onlinseed oilwas used, the process was then widely substituted with plastics such asParkesine.Modern patent leather is typically made with a plastic or synthetic coating. This has also allowed for more colors and patterns available.

Patent leather is sometimes confused withartificial leatherssuch asDuPont's Corfam andKuraray's Clarino, which are artificial materials with a similar glossy appearance.

History

Riding boot from 1910–1920s

An early reference to patent leather is in the 1793 British periodicalThe Bee, or Literary Weekly Intelligencer,which notes, in an article entitled "Hand's patent leather", that "a gentleman of the name of Hand" inBirmingham,England, obtained apatentfor preparing flexible leather having a glaze and polish that renders it impervious to water and need only be wiped with a sponge to restore it to its original luster.In November 1799, inventor Edmund Prior, ofHolborn,London, England, received a patent for a method of painting and colouring all kinds of leather;and, in January 1805, inventor Charles Mollersten, ofHackney Wick,received a patent for applying a chemical composition in the preparation of hides, skins, and leather to give "a beautiful gloss".However, patent leather primarily owes its popularity to Seth Boyden.

The coating process was introduced to the United States and improved by inventorSeth Boyden,ofNewark, New Jersey,in 1818, with commercial manufacture beginning September 20, 1819. Boyden's process, which he did not patent,used alacquercoating that was based onlinseed oil.In 1818, Boyden received a piece of German-made patent leather, said to be a German military cap front,from a localcarriagemanufacturerand used that to investigate the possibility of creating a version of leather in the United States that was treated in such a way that the material would be decidedly more dressy than work boots and similar leather goods, but retain its desirable qualities of protection and durability.Reverse engineeringthe European patent leather, he discovered a way to produce his patent leather.Using a series of coating treatments based on linseed oil, the new shiny leather began commercial production on September 20, 1819. Boyden's efforts resulted in the production of glossy leather that quickly caught on as a complement to formal dress. Boyden neverpatentedhis inventive process.

A subsequent European method of manufacture was described in 1906 as follows:

In the preparation ofenamelledleather, a foundation coat oflampblackmixed withlinseed oilhas been laid on the flesh side, since the infancy of the industry in Europe. Successive coats of this mixture are applied, the skin being allowed to dry and the surface ground down withpumice-stoneafter each coat. Then the skins are blackened again with a fluid black mixed withturpentine,and hung up to dry again. After the skins have been allowed to settle, being laid in a pile for about a month, or longer if possible, the leather is tacked onto a frame and receives a brush coat ofvarnish.A baking follows in an oven of moderate heat. The temperature is gradually raised and the baking continued three days. Exposure to the sun for ten hours completes the process. Recently American manufacturers have been making patent leather fromchrome-tannedskins. The product is quite different, as is also the process employed. The leather is softer, more flexible, and takes a less brilliant polish than that made from bark-tanned leather, but it is much less likely to crack and is more suitable for shoes than the brittle and inflexible leather made by the older process.

Later, the substitution of plastics such asParkesinein lieu of treatments with linseed oil allowed patent leather to be produced more cheaply. Eventually, synthetic resins further simplified the process and cut production costs even further, making mass production of patent leather possible.

In the Britishfashion trends of the 1960s,shoes, boots, and handbags were often made of patent leather orvinyl.Patent shoes were available in black, yellow, green, orange, hot pink, white, blue and red.

Product care

Patent leather shoes

Patent leather and poromerics are cleaned in a similar way. Dirt adhering to the coating can be removed with a damp cloth, using a mildsoapif needed. Minor scratches and scuff marks in the coating can be removed using one of several special-purpose patent leather and poromeric cleaners on the market. With wear and tear, patent leather will eventually lose its glossy finish, but will still be smoother than most other types of leather, looking almostrubbery.

Lighter color patent leather is prone to color migration. When a patent item is stored next to a colored item, the dye from the colored item can migrate into the patent leather. Storing patent leather items in a white dust bag will help prevent this.

External links

• Media related toPatent leather shoesat Wikimedia Commons