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Tangier

(Redirected fromTangier, Morocco)
"Tanger" redirects here. For other uses of Tanger, seeTanger (disambiguation).For other uses of Tangier, seeTangier (disambiguation).

Tangier(/tænˈdʒɪər/tan-JEER;Arabic:طنجة,romanized:Ṭanjah,[tˤandʒa],[tˤanʒa]) orTangiersis a city in northwesternMorocco,on the coasts of theMediterranean Seaand theAtlantic Ocean.The city is thecapitalof theTanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceimaregion, as well as theTangier-Assilah Prefectureof Morocco.

Tangier
طنجة
City
Clockwise from top: View towards the Medina, courtyard ofKasbah Palace,waterfront from Achakar,Cape Spartellighthouse
Official seal of Tangier
Seal
Nickname(s):
The blue and white city, City of theBoughaz,Bride of the North
Tangier is located in Morocco
Tangier
Tangier
Location of Tangier within Morocco
Tangier is located in Africa
Tangier
Tangier
Tangier (Africa)
Coordinates:35°46′36″N05°48′14″W/ 35.77667°N 5.80389°W/35.77667; -5.80389
CountryMorocco
RegionTanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima
Government
• MayorMounir Laymouri
Area
[1]
• Total
124 km2(48 sq mi)
Highest elevation
230 m (750 ft)
Lowest elevation
0 m (0 ft)
Population
(2024)[2]
• Total
1,275,428
• Rank2nd in Morocco
• Density7,026/km2(18,200/sq mi)
[a]
Demonym(s)Tanjawi, Tangierian
Time zoneUTC+1(CET)
Postal codes
  • 90000
  • 90010
  • 90020
  • 90030
  • 90040
  • 90050
  • 90060
  • 90070
  • 90080
  • 90090
  • 90100
Area code0539
Websitetanger.ma
  1. ^TheHigh Commission for Planningdefines the city of Tangier as comprising the fourarrondissementsofBni Makada,Charf-Mghogha, Charf-Souani and Tanger-Médina.[3]

Many civilisations and cultures have influenced the history of Tangier, starting from before the 10th centuryBCE. Starting as a strategicPhoeniciantown and trading centre, Tangier has been a nexus for many cultures. In 1923, it became aninternational zonemanaged bycolonial powersand became a destination for many European and American diplomats, spies, bohemians, writers and businessmen. That status came to an end withMoroccan independence,in phases between 1956 and 1960.

By the early 21st century, Tangier was undergoing rapid development and modernisation. Projects include tourism projects along the bay, a modern business district called Tangier City Centre, an airport terminal, and a football stadium. Tangier's economy is set to benefit greatly from theTanger-Medport.

Names

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TheCarthaginianname of the city is variously recorded asTNG(Punic:𐤕𐤍𐤂),TNGʾ(𐤕𐤍𐤂𐤀),TYNGʾ(𐤕𐤉𐤍𐤂𐤀),[4]andTTGʾ(𐤕𐤕𐤂𐤀);[5]these appear in Greek and Roman sources asTenga,Tinga,Titga,&c.[6]The oldBerbername wasTingi(ⵜⵉⵏⴳⵉ),[7]whichRuizconnects to Berbertingis,meaning "marsh".[8]TheGreekslater claimedthatTingís(‹See Tfd›Greek:Τιγγίς) had been named forTinjis,a daughter of theTitanAtlas,who was supposed to support thevault of heavennearby.LatinTingisthen developed intoPortugueseTânger,SpanishTánger,andFrenchTanger,which entered English asTangierandTangiers.TheArabicand modern Berber name of the town isṬanjah(طَنجة,ⵟⴰⵏⴵⴰ).[6]

Moroccan historianAhmed Toufiqconsiders that the name "Tingi" has the same etymology asTinghir,and is composed of "Tin", which is a feminine particle that could be translated as "owner" or "she who has", and "gi" which may have originally been "ig", meaning "high location". This corresponds to the popular Moroccan phraseTanja l-ɛalya(Tangier the High), which may be a remnant echo of the original meaning, as well as a reference to the high location of Tangier. A similar construction can be found in the name ofTinmel,the first capital of theAlmohads,which is composed of "Tin", and "Amlel" meaning "at foot of the mountain" or "at a low location".[9]

Tangier was formally known asColonia Julia Tingi( "TheJulianColony of Tingis ") following its elevation tocolony statusduring theRoman Empire.The nicknames "Bride of the North" and "Door of Africa" reference its position in far northwestern Africa near theStrait of Gibraltar.

History

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See also:Timeline of Tangier

Ancient

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Main article:Tingis
Surviving parts of the wall of RomanTingis
Ptolemy's 1st African map, showing RomanMauretania Tingitana

Tangier was founded as aPhoeniciancolony,possibly as early as the 10th centuryBCE[10][11]and almost certainly by the 8th centuryBCE.[12]The majority ofBerbertombs around Tangier hadPunicjewelry by the 6th centuryBCE, speaking to abundant trade by that time.[13]TheCarthaginiansdeveloped it as an important port oftheir empireby the 5th centuryBCE.[10][11]It was probably involved with the expeditions ofHanno the Navigatoralong theWest Africancoast.[10][12]The city long preserved itsPhoeniciantraditions, issuing bronze coins under theMauretaniankings withPunic script.Under theRomansother coins were issued, bearingAugustusandAgrippa's heads and Latin scriptobversebut an image of theCanaanite godBaalreverse.[5]Some editions ofProcopiusplace his Punicstelaein Tingis rather thanTigisis;[14]in either case, however, their existence is highly dubious.[15]

The Greeks knew this town asTingisand, withsome modification,record theBerber legendsof its founding. SupposedlyTinjis,daughter ofAtlasand widow ofAntaeus,slept withHerculesand bore him the sonSyphax.After Tinjis' death, Syphax then founded the port and named it in her honour.[16]The gigantic skeleton and tomb of Antaeus were tourist attractions for ancient visitors.[16]TheCaves of Hercules,where he supposedly rested onCape Spartelduringhis labors,remain one today.[citation needed]

Tingis came under the control of theRomanallyMauretaniaduring thePunic Wars.Q. Sertorius,inhis waragainstSulla'sregime in Rome,took and held Tingis for a number of years in the 70sBCE. It was subsequently returned to the Mauretanians but established as arepublicanfree cityduring the reign ofBocchusIIIin 38BCE.[17]

Tingis received certain municipal privileges underAugustusand became aRomancolonyunderClaudius,who made it the provincial capital ofMauretania Tingitana.[18][6]UnderDiocletian's291 reforms,it became the seat of acount(comes) and Tingitana'sgovernor(praeses).[17]At the same time, the province itself shrank to little more than the ports along the coast and, owing to theGreat Persecution,Tingis was also the scene of themartyrdomsbybeheadingofSaintsMarcellusandCassianin 298.[10]Tingis remained the largest settlement in its province in the 4th century and was greatly developed.[citation needed]

Medieval

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Entrance gate to the medina

Probably invited byCount Boniface,who feared war withthe empress dowager,[19]tens of thousands ofVandalsunderGaisericcrossed intoNorth Africain 429 CE and occupied Tingis[20]and Mauretania as far east asCalama.When Boniface learned that he and the empress had been manipulated against each other byAetius,he attempted to compel the Vandals to return to Spain but was instead defeated at Calama in 431.[19]The Vandals lost control of Tingis and the rest of Mauretania in various Berber uprisings.

Tingis was reconquered byBelisarius,the general of theByzantineemperorJustinianI,in 533 as part of theVandalic War.[20]The new provincial administration was moved, however, to the more defensible base atSeptem(present-dayCeuta).[17]Byzantine control probably yielded to pressure fromVisigoth Spainaround 618.[21]

Count JulianofCeutasupposedly led the last defences of Tangier against theMuslim invasion of North Africa.[22]Medieval romancemade his betrayal ofChristendoma personal vendetta against theVisigothkingRodericover the honour of his daughter,[23]but Tangier at least fell to a siege[24]by the forces ofMusa bin Nusayrsometime between 707[25]and 711.[26][27]While he moved south through central Morocco, he had his deputy at TangierTariq ibn Zayid,Musa'smawla[23][28]launch the beginning of theMuslim invasion of Spain.[25]Uqba ibn Nafiwas frequently but erroneously credited with Tangier's conquest by medieval historians, but only owing to Musa's later commission at the hands ofAl-Walid I.[29]

Under theUmayyads,Tangier served as the capital of the Moroccan district (Maghreb al-Aqsa[30]oral-Udwa) of theprovince of Africa(Ifriqiya). The conquest of the Maghreb and Spain had, however, been undertaken principally as raids forslavesand plunder and the caliphate's leadership continued to treat all Berbers as pagans or slaves fortax purposes,even after their wholesale conversion to Islam.[31]In the area around Tangier, these hateful taxes were mostly paid in female slaves or in tenderlambskinsobtained by beating the ewes to inducepremature birth.[31]Governor Yazidwas murdered by Berber guards whom he had tattooed as slaves inc. 720,[31]and in the 730s similar treatment fromGovernor Ubayd Allahandal-Muradi,his deputy at Tangier, provoked theBerber Revolt.Inspired by the egalitarianKharijiteheresy,Barghawataand others underMaysara al-Matghariseized Tangier in the summer of 740.[32][33]In theBattle of the Nobleson the city's outskirts a few months later, Maysara's replacementKhalid ibn Hamidmassacred the cream of Arab nobility in North Africa. An enragedCaliph Hishamordered an attack from a second army "whose beginning is where they are and whose end is where I am," but this army wasdefeated at Bagdourathe next year.[34]The Barghawata were concentrated further south on the Atlantic coast, and area around Tangier fell into chaos until 785.[35]

TheShiaArab refugeeIdrisarrived at Tangier[35]before moving further south, marrying into local tribes aroundMoulay Idrissand assembling an army that, amongits other conquests,took Tangierc. 790.During the division of the sultanate that occurred on the death ofIdrisII,Tangier fell to his sonQasimin 829.[35]It was soon taken by Qasim's brotherUmar,who ruled it until his death in 835.[35]Umar's sonAlibecame sultan (r.874–883), as did Qasim's sonYahyaafter him (r.880–904), but they governed fromFez.

TheFatimidcaliphAbdullah al-Madhibegan interfering in Morocco in the early 10th century, promptingthe Umayyad emir of Cordovato proclaim himself caliph and to begin supporting proxies against his rivals. He helped theMaghrawa BerbersoverrunMelillain 927,Ceutain 931, and Tangier in 949.[35]Tangier's governor was subsequently named chief over Cordova's Moroccan possessions and allies.[35]Ali ibn Hammud,named Cordova's governor for Ceuta in 1013, took advantage of the realm's civil wars to conquer Tangier andMálagabefore overrunning Cordova itself and proclaiming himself caliph in 1016. His Barghawata ally Rizḳ Allāh was then permitted to rule from Tangier with general autonomy.[35]

Yusuf ibn Tashfincaptured Tangier for theAlmoravidsin 1077.[35]It fell toAbd al-Mumin'sAlmohadsin the 1147 and then flourished under his dynasty, with its port highly active.[35]

Like Ceuta, Tangier did not initially acknowledge theMarinidsafter the fall of the Almohads. Instead, the local chiefYusuf ibn Muhammadpledged himself to theHafsidsin Tunisia and then to theAbbasidsin the east before being killed inAH665 (late 1266 or early 1267).[35]Abu Yusuf Yaqubcompelled Tangier's allegiance with a three months' siege in 1274.[35]

The next century was an obscure time of rebellions and difficulties for the city. During this time, the travelerIbn Battutawas born in Tangier in 1304, leaving home at 20 for thehajj.[36]Piracyfrom Tangier andSalébegan to harass shipping in thestraitandNorth Atlanticin the late 14thcentury.[20]A partial plan of the late medievalkasbahwas found in a Portuguese document now held by theMilitary Archives of Swedenin Stockholm.[37]

Early modern

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When the Portuguese started theircolonial expansionbytaking Ceutain retribution for its piracy[20]in 1415,[38]Tangier was always a major goal. Theyfailed to capture it in 1437,1458, and 1464,[35]but occupied it unopposed on 28 August 1471 after its garrison fled upon learning of theconquest of Asilah.[39]As in Ceuta, they converted its chief mosque into the town's cathedral church; it was further embellished by several restorations during the town's occupation.[17]In addition to the cathedral, the Portuguese raised European-style houses andFranciscanandDominicanchapels and monasteries.[20]TheWattasidsassaulted Tangier in 1508, 1511, and 1515 but without success. In the 17th century, it passed with the rest of Portugal's domains intoSpanish controlas part of thepersonal union of the crowns[6]but maintained its Portuguese garrison and administration.[35]

Tangier in the 17th century

Iberian rule lasted until 1661,[20]when it was given toEngland'sKing CharlesIIas part of thedowryof the PortugueseinfantaCatherine of Braganza.[40]A squadron under the admiral and ambassadorEdward Montaguarrived in November.English Tangier,fully occupied in January 1662,[41]was praised by Charles as "a jewell of immense value in the royaldiadem"[20]despite the departing Portuguese taking away everything they could, even—according to the official report— "the very fflowers, the Windowes and the Dores".[42]Tangier received agarrisonand a charter which made it equal to other English towns, but the religious orders were expropriated, the Portuguese residents nearly entirely left, and the town'sJewswere driven out owing to fears concerning their loyalty.[43]Meanwhile, theTangier Regimentwere almost constantly under attack by locals who considered themselvesmujahideenfighting aholy war.[35]Their principal leader wasKhadir Ghaïlan(known to the English as "Gayland" or "Guyland" ) of the Banu Gurfat, whom theEarl of Peterboroughattempted to buy off.[35]Ultimately, the truce lasted only for part of 1663 and 1664; on May 4 of the latter year, theEarl of Teviotand around 470 members of the garrisonwere killed in an ambushbeside Jew's Hill.[35]Lord Belasysehappened to secure a longer-lasting treaty in 1666:[44]Khadir Ghaïlan hoped to support a pretender against the newAlawidsultanAl-Rashidand things subsequently went so badly for him that he was obliged to abide by its terms until his death in 1673.[35]

The English took advantage of the respite to improve greatly the Portuguese defences.[35]They also planned to improve the harbour by building amole,which would have allowed it to play the same role that Gibraltar later played in British naval strategy. Incompetence, waste and outright fraud and embezzlement caused costs to swell; among those enriched wasSamuel Pepys.[45]The mole cost£340,000 and reached 1,436 ft (438 m) long before its destruction.[46][47][48]Although funding was found for the fortifications, the garrison's pay was delayed until in December 1677 it was 21⁄4years in arrears;Governor Fairbornedealt with the ensuingmutinyby seizing one of the soldier'smusketsand killing him with it on the spot.

Adetermined siegebySultan Moulay Ismailof Morocco between 1678 and 1680 was unsuccessful,[49]but longstanding exasperation with the colony's finances[50]and the difficulties caused by the siege[51]pushed Parliament to write off the effort in 1680.[50]At the time, Tangier's population consisted of only about 700 apart from the thousand-man garrison;Governor Kirkeestimated 400 of them had sufferedgonorrheafrom the same "mighty pretty" sex worker.[50]Forces underLord Dartmouth(includingSamuel Pepys) methodically destroyed the town and its port facilities for five months prior to Morocco's occupation of the city on 7 February 1684.[52]

Ali ibn Abdallah and his son Ahmed ibn Ali served in turn as the town's governors until 1743, repopulating it with populace from the surrounding countryside.[53]They were powerful enough to opposeSultan Abdallahthrough his various reigns, giving support and asylum to his various rivals within and without the royal family.[54]

The city was attacked by Spain in 1790.[18]

Internationalisation

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See also:Tangier International ZoneandSpanish occupation of Tangier (1940–1945)
Renschhausen building, erected around 1913 by German businessman Adolf Renschhausen, exemplar of German influence in pre-World-War-I Tangier
Former stock exchange building in theVille Nouvelle

From the 18th century, Tangier served as Morocco's diplomatic headquarters.[55]The United States dedicated its first consulate in Tangier during theGeorge Washington's tenure as president.[56]In 1821,the Legation Buildingin Tangier became the first piece of property acquired abroad by theU.S. government—a gift to the U.S. from SultanMoulay Suliman.

In 1828,Great Britainblockaded the port in retaliation for piracy.[57]As part ofits ongoing conquestof neighbouringAlgeria,Francedeclared warover Moroccan tolerance ofAbd el-Kader;Tangier was bombarded by a French fleet under thePrince of Joinvilleon 6 August 1844.[54]What little of its fortifications were damaged[58]were later repaired by English engineers,[30]but Frenchvictory at Islynear the disputed borderended the conflict on French terms.

Italian revolutionary heroGiuseppe Garibaldilived in exile at Tangier in late 1849 and the first half of 1850, following the fall of the revolutionaryRoman Republic.

Tangier's geographic location made it a centre ofEuropeandiplomatic and commercial rivalry in Morocco in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.[59]By the 1870s, it was the site of every foreign embassy and consul in Morocco but only held about 400 foreign residents out of a total population of around 20,000.[18]The city increasingly came under French influence, and it was here in 1905 thatKaiser WilhelmIItriggeredan international crisisthat almost led to war between his country and France by pronouncing himself in favour of Morocco's continued independence, with an eye to its future acquisition by theGerman Empire.TheAlgeciras Conferencewhich ended the standoff left Tangier'spolicetraining andcustomscollections in international hands[55]but Britain's strong support of its "Entente Cordiale"with France ended German hopes concerning Morocco.

Improved harbour facilities were completed in 1907, with an inner and outermole.[55]In 1905 the first Moroccan newspaper,Lisan al-Maghrib( "The Voice of Morocco" ), was established in Tangiers on the order of SultanAbdelaziz,partly with the aim of counteracting the views expressed byal-Sa'adah,an Arabic newspaper established in 1904 or 1905 by the French embassy in the city.[60][61]The newspaper was founded and managed on behalf of the government by two Lebanese journalists, Faraj and Artur Numur.[60]It later became more notorious for publishing reformist ideas and views critical of the sultan.[60][61]In the years leading up to theFirst World War,Tangier had a population of about 40,000, about half Muslim, a quarterJewish,and a quarter European Christians. Of the Europeans, about three-quarters were Spanish artisans and labourers.[55][6]

In 1912, theTreaty of Fesestablished theFrench protectorateover most of Morocco andSpanish rulein the country's far south and north, but left Tangier's status for further determination.Hubert Lyauteypersuaded the last Sultan of independent Morocco,Abdelhafid,to abdicate in exchange for the receipt of a massive pension.[62]Abdelhafid planned to live in Tangier where he used part of his pension to build an opulent mansion west of the old city, theAbdelhafid Palace,completed in 1914.[63]The complex was later purchased by Italian interests and is now also known as the "Palace of Italian Institutions" (French:palais des institutions italiennes).[64]Thestandard-gaugeFranco-SpanishTangier–Fez Railway(French:Compagnie Franco-Espagnole du Tanger–Fès) was constructed from 1919 to 1927.

TheTangier International Zonewas created under the joint administration of France, Spain and theUnited Kingdomby an international convention signed in Paris on 18 December 1923.[65]Ratifications were exchanged in Paris on 14 May 1924, and the convention was registered inLeague of Nations Treaty Serieson 13 September 1924.[66]It was amended by a protocol of July 1928 to elevate the status of Italy, an idea put forth bySir Austen Chamberlainof Great Britain.[67]The European powers' creation of the statute of Tangier promoted the formation of a cosmopolitan society where Muslims, Christians, and Jews lived together with reciprocal respect and tolerance. A town where men and women, with many different political and ideological tendencies, found refuge, including Spaniards from the right or from the left, Jews fleeing Nazi Germany and Moroccan dissidents. With very liberal economic and fiscal laws, Tangier became - in an international environment full of restrictions, prohibitions and monopolies - a tax haven with absolute freedom of trade.[68]The International Zone of Tangier had a 373 km2(144 sq mi) area and, by the mid-1930s, a population of about 50,000 inhabitants: 30,000 Muslims; 12,000 Jews; and 8,000-odd Europeans, with a decreasing proportion of working-class Spaniards.[17]

Spanish troops occupied Tangier on 14 June 1940, the same dayParis fell to the Germans.Despite calls by Spanish nationalists to annex "Tánger español",theFranco regimepublicly considered the occupation a temporarywartime measure.[69]A diplomatic dispute between Britain and Spain over the latter's abolition of the city's international institutions in November 1940 led to a further guarantee of British rights and a Spanish promise not to fortify the area.[70]The territory was restored to its pre-war status on October 11, 1945.[71]

Moroccan independence

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The Tangier International Zone played an important role in the campaign for Moroccan independence.[72]Because of its legal status as an international zone, activists were able to meet in Tangier, relatively protected from the French and Spanish authorities.[72]In 1951, the National Front was created in Tangier, a pact between Morocco's four nationalist parties to coordinate their campaign to achieve Moroccan independence.[73]

In July 1952 the protecting powers met atRabatto discuss the International Zone's future, agreeing to abolish it. Tangier joined with the rest of Morocco following the restoration of full sovereignty in 1956.[74]At the time of the handover, Tangier had a population of around 40,000 Muslims; 31,000 Christians; and 15,000 Jews.[75]

Geography

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Tangier from space (2005)

Central Tangier lies about 23 km (14 mi) east ofCape Spartel,[76]the southern half of theStrait of Gibraltar.[55]It nestles between two hills at the northwest end of theBay of Tangier,which historically formed the best natural harbour anywhere on the Moroccan coast before the increasing size of ships required anchorage to be made further and further from shore.[55]The shape of the gradually-rising underlying terrain creates the effect of the city as anamphitheatre,with the commercial district in the middle.[55]The western hill (French:La Montagne) is the site of the city's citadel orkasbah.The eastern hill formsCape Malabata,[17]sometimes proposed as the point for astrait crossing.[77](Years of studies have, however, made no real progress thus far.)[78]

The Marshan is a plateau about 1,189 metres (3,900 ft) long spreading west of downtown along the sea.[17]

Climate

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Tangier has amediterranean climate(KöppenCsa) with heavier rainfall than most parts of North Africa and nearby areas on theIberian Peninsulaowing to its exposed location.[79]Theprevailing windsblow from the sea and have kept the site generally healthy even in earlier times with much poorer sanitation.[30]The summers are relatively hot and sunny and the winters are wet and mild. Frost is rare, although a new low of −4.2 °C (24.4 °F) was recorded in January 2005.[79]

Climate data for Tangier (Tangier Airport) 1961–1990, extremes 1917–1963
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 22.0
(71.6) 		24.1
(75.4) 		24.0
(75.2) 		34.8
(94.6) 		31.9
(89.4) 		33.5
(92.3) 		36.7
(98.1) 		38.2
(100.8) 		35.8
(96.4) 		30.4
(86.7) 		27.0
(80.6) 		24.0
(75.2) 		38.2
(100.8)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 16.2
(61.2) 		16.8
(62.2) 		17.9
(64.2) 		19.2
(66.6) 		21.9
(71.4) 		24.9
(76.8) 		28.3
(82.9) 		28.6
(83.5) 		27.3
(81.1) 		23.7
(74.7) 		19.6
(67.3) 		17.0
(62.6) 		21.8
(71.2)
Daily mean °C (°F) 12.5
(54.5) 		13.1
(55.6) 		14.0
(57.2) 		15.2
(59.4) 		17.7
(63.9) 		20.6
(69.1) 		23.5
(74.3) 		23.9
(75.0) 		22.8
(73.0) 		19.7
(67.5) 		15.9
(60.6) 		13.3
(55.9) 		17.7
(63.9)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 8.8
(47.8) 		9.4
(48.9) 		10.1
(50.2) 		11.2
(52.2) 		13.4
(56.1) 		16.2
(61.2) 		18.7
(65.7) 		19.1
(66.4) 		18.3
(64.9) 		15.6
(60.1) 		12.2
(54.0) 		9.7
(49.5) 		13.6
(56.5)
Record low °C (°F) −4.2
(24.4) 		0.8
(33.4) 		4.2
(39.6) 		5.8
(42.4) 		7.4
(45.3) 		10.2
(50.4) 		10.5
(50.9) 		14.0
(57.2) 		10.0
(50.0) 		9.0
(48.2) 		4.8
(40.6) 		−0.1
(31.8) 		−4.2
(24.4)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 103.5
(4.07) 		98.7
(3.89) 		71.8
(2.83) 		62.2
(2.45) 		37.3
(1.47) 		13.9
(0.55) 		2.1
(0.08) 		2.5
(0.10) 		14.9
(0.59) 		65.1
(2.56) 		134.6
(5.30) 		129.3
(5.09) 		735.9
(28.97)
Average precipitation days 11.2 11.4 10.1 9.3 6.1 3.7 0.8 0.8 3.1 8.0 11.1 12.0 87.6
Averagerelative humidity(%) 80 81 78 78 76 74 70 72 73 76 79 81 76
Mean monthlysunshine hours 169.2 166.9 231.7 251.7 298.9 306.8 344.0 330.7 275.6 238.2 180.6 166.9 2,960.7
Source 1: NOAA[80]
Source 2:Deutscher Wetterdienst(humidity, 1973–1993)[81]

Subdivisions

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The current prefecture is divided administratively into the following:[82]

Name Geographic code Type Households Population (2004) Foreign population Moroccan population Notes
Assilah 511.01.01. Municipality 6,245 28,217 66 28,151
Bni Makada 511.01.03. Arrondissement 47,384 238,382 74 238,308
Charf-Mghogha 511.01.05. Arrondissement 30,036 141,987 342 141,645
Charf-Souani 511.01.06. Arrondissement 25,948 115,839 273 115,566
Tanger-Medina 511.01.07. Arrondissement 40,929 173,477 2,323 171,154
Al Manzla 511.03.01. Rural commune 555 3,031 0 3,031
Aquouass Briech 511.03.03. Rural commune 787 4,132 3 4,129
Azzinate 511.03.05. Rural commune 920 4,895 0 4,895
Dar Chaoui 511.03.07. Rural commune 877 4,495 0 4,495 1,424 residents live in the centre, calledDar Chaoui;3,071 residents live in rural areas.
Lkhaloua 511.03.09. Rural commune 2,405 12,946 1 12,945
Sahel Chamali 511.03.11. Rural commune 1,087 5,588 2 5,586
Sidi Lyamani 511.03.13. Rural commune 1,883 10,895 1 10,894 1,101 residents live in the centre, calledSidi Lyamani;9,794 residents live in rural areas.
Boukhalef 511.81.03. Rural commune 3,657 18,699 4 18,695 3,187 residents live in the centre, calledGueznaia;15,512 residents live in rural areas.

Economy

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Main articles:Economy of Tangier,Tangier Free Zone,andTanger-Med
Port of Tangier
Street in Tangier's Medina ( "Old City" )

Tangier is Morocco's second most important industrial centre afterCasablanca.The industrial sectors are diversified:textile,chemical,mechanical,metallurgicalandnaval.Currently, the city has fourindustrial parksof which two have the status offree economic zone(seeTangier Free Zone).

Tangier's economy relies heavily ontourism.In the 1960s and '70s, Tangier formed part of thehippie trail.[83]It became less popular and tourist attractions became run-down as cheap flights made central Moroccan cities likeMarrakeshmore accessible to European tourists; crime rose and a somewhat dangerous reputation drove more tourists away.[83]Since 2010, however,King MohammedVIhas made a point of restoring the city's shipping and tourist facilities and improving its industrial base. Among other improvements, the beach was cleaned and lined with new cafes and clubs; the new commercial port meanscruise shipsno longer unload beside cargo containers.[83]

Seaside resorts have been increasing with projects funded by foreign investments.Real estateandconstructioncompanies have been investing heavily in tourist infrastructures. A bay delimiting the city centre extends for more than 7 km (4 mi). The years 2007 and 2008 were particularly important for the city because of the completion of large construction projects; these include the Tangier-Mediterranean port ( "Tanger-Med") and its industrial parks, a 45,000-seat sports stadium, an expanded business district, and renovated tourist infrastructure.

Tanger-Med, a new port 40 km (25 mi) outside Tangier proper, began construction in 2004 and became functional in 2007. Its site plays a key role in connecting maritime regions, as it is in a very critical position on the Strait of Gibraltar, which passes between Europe and Africa. The makeup of the new port is 85% transhipment 15% for domestic import and export activities.[84]The port is distinguished by its size, infrastructure, and efficiency in managing the flow of ships. Tanger-Med has linked Morocco to Europe's freight industry. It has also helped connect Morocco to countries in the Mediterranean, Africa, and America. The port has allowed Tangier to become a more globalised city with new international opportunities that will help facilitate economic growth.[85]The construction and operation of the port aimed to create 120,000 new jobs, 20,000 at the port and 100,000 resulting from growing economic activity.

Agriculturein the area of Tangier is tertiary and mainly cereal. The city is chiefly famed fortangerines,a kind ofmandarin orangehybrid first grown in the orchards then once south of themedina,but it was never commonly exported. As early as 1900, local consumption had already outstripped supply and required imports fromTetuanand elsewhere.[86]Mass farming of tangerines instead began inFloridain theUnited States,where the first tree was introduced atPalatkaby a Major Atway sometime before 1843.[87]

Artisanal trade in the medina ( "Old City" ) specialises mainly inleather working,handicrafts made from wood and silver, traditional clothing, and Moroccan-style shoes.

The city has grown quickly due torural exodusfrom other smaller cities and villages. The 2014 population is more than three-times larger than 32 years ago (850.000 inhabitants in 2014 vs. 250,000 in 1982).[citation needed]This phenomenon has resulted in the appearance of peripheral suburban districts, mainly inhabited by poor people, that often lack sufficient infrastructure.

In 2023 Tangier hosted theConnect route development forum.[88][89]

Notable landmarks

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Gate of the Kasabah
Portal of theGrand Mosque of Tangier
Fountains of Bab al-Assa
Interior of the Moshe Nahon Synagogue

The old town is still surrounded by the remains of what was once more than 1,829 metres (6,000 ft) of stone rampart. Most of it dates to the town's Portuguese occupation, with restoration work later undertaken at different times. Three major bastions were the Irish Tower (Bordj al-Naʿam), York Castle (Bordj dar al-Barud), and theBordj al-Salam.[17]

Transport

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Al Boraqat theTanger-Ville Railway Terminal

Railwaylines connectTanger-Ville railway stationwithRabat,CasablancaandMarrakeshin the south, and withFesandOujdain the east. The service is operated byONCF.In November 2018 Africa's first high-speed train, theKenitra–Tangier high-speed rail line,was inaugurated, linking Tangier toCasablancain 2 hours, 10 minutes. By 2020 improvements between Casablanca andKenitraare planned to further reduce the journey to 1 hour and 30 minutes.

TheRabat–Tangier expresswayconnects Tangier toFesvia Rabat 250 km (155 mi), andSettatvia Casablanca 330 km (205 mi) andTanger-Medport. TheIbn Batouta International Airport(formerly known as Tangier-Boukhalef) is 15 km (9 mi) south-west of the city centre.

The newTanger-Medport is managed by the Danish firmA. P. Moller–Maersk Groupand will free up the old port for tourist and recreational development.

Tangier'sIbn Batouta International Airportand the rail tunnel will serve as the gateway to the Moroccan Riviera, the littoral area between Tangier and Oujda. Traditionally, the northern coast was a rural stronghold, with some of the best beaches on theMediterranean.It is slated for rapid urban development. The Ibn Batouta International Airport has been modernised to accommodate more flights. The biggest airline at the airport isRoyal Air Maroc.

Education

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Tangier offers four types of education systems: Arabic, French, Spanish and English. Each offers classes starting from pre-Kindergarten up to the 12th grade, as for German in the three last years of high school. TheBaccalauréat,orhigh school diplomaare the diplomas offered after clearing the 12 grades.

Many universities are inside and outside the city. Universities like the Institut Supérieur International de Tourisme (ISIT), which grants diplomas, offer courses ranging frombusiness administrationtohotelmanagement.The institute is one of the most prestigioustourismschools in the country. Other colleges such as the École Nationale de Commerce et de Gestion (ENCG-T) is among the biggestbusiness schoolsin the country as well as École Nationale des Sciences appliquées (ENSA-T), a risingengineering schoolfor applied sciences. University known as Abdelmaled Essaadi holding many what they mainly known as faculties; Law, Economics and Social sciences (FSJEST) and the FST of Technical Sciences. and the most attended Institut of ISTA of the OFPPT.

Primary education

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There are more than a hundred Moroccanprimary schools,dispersed across the city. Private and public schools, they offer education in Arabic, French and some school English until the 5th grade. Mathematics, Arts, Science Activities and nonreligious modules are commonly taught in the primary school.

International primary institutions

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International high schools

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Culture

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The Fanatics of Tangier(1830s) byEugène Delacroix
Muley-Abd-Err-Rahmann,Sultan of Morocco, LeavingMequinez Palace(1845) byEugène Delacroix
Young Ladies on a Terrace in Tangiers(1880s) byRudolf Ernst
Dusk at Tangier(1914) byEnrique Simonet

Never in my life have I observed anything more bizarre than the first sight of Tangier. It is a tale out of theThousand and One Nights... A prodigious mix of races and costumes...This whole world moves about with an activity that seems feverish.

— Eugène Delacroix,in a letter toAlexis de Tocqueville[94]

WhenCount de Mornaytraveled to Morocco in 1832 to establish a treaty supportive of the recentFrench annexation of Algeria,he took along theRomantic painterEugène Delacroix.Delacroix not only reveled in theorientalismof the place; he also took it as a new and living model for his works onclassical antiquity:"The Greeks and Romans are here at my door, in the Arabs who wrap themselves in a white blanket and look like Cato or Brutus..."[95]He sketched and painted watercolours continuously, writing at the time "I am like a man in a dream, seeing things he fears will vanish from him." He returned to his sketches and memories of North Africa for the rest of his career, with 80 oil paintings likeThe Fanatics of TangierandWomen of Algiersbecoming legendary and influential on artists such asVan Gogh,Gauguin,andPicasso.They were particularly struck by the quality of the light: toCézanne,"All this luminous colour... seems... that it enters the eye like a glass of wine running into your gullet and it makes you drunk straight away".[96]Tangier subsequently became an obligatory stop for artists seeking to experience the colours and light he spoke of for themselves—with varying results.Matissemade several sojourns in Tangier, always staying at the Grand Hotel Villa de France. "I have found landscapes in Morocco," he claimed, "exactly as they are described in Delacroix's paintings." His students in turn had their own; the Californian artistRichard Diebenkornwas directly influenced by the haunting colours and rhythmic patterns of Matisse's Morocco paintings.

The multicultural placement ofMuslim,ChristianandJewishcommunities and the foreign immigrants attracted writerGeorge Orwell,writer and composerPaul Bowles,playwrightTennessee Williams,the beat writersWilliam S. Burroughs,Allen GinsbergandJack Kerouac,the painterBrion Gysinand the music group theRolling Stones,who all lived in or visited Tangier during different periods of the 20th century.

In the 1940s and until 1956 when the city was anInternational Zone,the city served as a playground for eccentric millionaires, a meeting place forsecret agentsand a variety of crooks and a mecca for speculators and gamblers, an Eldorado for the fun-loving "Haute Volée". During theSecond World WartheOffice of Strategic Servicesoperated out of Tangier for various operations in North Africa.[97]

Around the same time, a circle of writers emerged which was to have a profound and lasting literary influence. This includedPaul Bowles,who lived and wrote for over half a century in the city,Tennessee WilliamsandJean Genetas well asMohamed Choukri(one ofNorth Africa's most controversial and widely read authors),Abdeslam Boulaich,Larbi Layachi,Mohammed MrabetandAhmed Yacoubi.Among the best known works from this period is Choukri'sFor Bread Alone.Originally written in Classical Arabic, the English edition was the result of close collaboration with Bowles (who worked with Choukri to provide the translation and supplied the introduction).Tennessee Williamsdescribed it as "a true document of human desperation, shattering in its impact." Independently,William S. Burroughslived in Tangier for four years and wroteNaked Lunch,whose locale ofInterzoneis an allusion to the city.

After several years of gradual disentanglement from Spanish and French colonial control, Morocco reintegrated the city of Tangier at the signing of theTangier Protocolon 29 October 1956. Tangier remains a very popular tourist destination for cruise ships and day visitors fromSpainandGibraltar.

Language

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Most of the inhabitants of Tangier speak a very distinctive variety ofMoroccan Arabicwhich differs from other Darija counterparts. The difference resides in pronunciation, tempo, grammar and a unique vocabulary. Arabic is used in government documentation and on road signs together with French. French is taught in primary schools and high schools and used in universities and large businesses. Spanish is well understood and spoken fluently, mainly exclusively by Tangierian locals. English, on the other hand, has been and still is used in tourist sectors.

The autochthonous population of Tangier has been declining drastically since the mid-2000s, as many locals, especially those from the younger generations, have moved to nearby Spain. While the industrial sector is expanding constantly, the internal immigration from the south to north is increasing rapidly. As a consequence, the Tangierian dialect is losing its distinctiveness or is being altered (in a recent study, social media has been depicted as one of these factors).

Nowadays, the Tangierian dialect is less prominent in public places, with the southern Darija dialect being more common in the area, to the extent that some observers question if Tangier retains its identity as it was before.

Religion

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The Catholic Cathedral of Tangier

Due to its Christian past before the Muslim conquest, it remains atitular seeof theRoman Catholic Church.[6]Originally, the city was part of the larger Roman province ofMauretania Caesariensis,which included much of North Africa. Later the area was subdivided, with the eastern part keeping the former name and the newer part receiving the name ofMauretania Tingitana.It is not known exactly at what period there may have been an episcopal see at Tangier in ancient times, but in the Middle Ages Tangier was used as atitular see(i.e., an honorific fiction for the appointment of curial and auxiliary bishops), placing it in Mauretania Tingitana. For the historical reasons given above, one official list of theRoman Curiaplaces the see in Mauretania Caesarea.

Towards the end of the 3rd century, Tangier was the scene of the martyrdoms ofSt.Marcellus,mentioned in theRoman Martyrologyon 30 October, and ofSt.Cassian,mentioned on 3 December.[6]

Under the Portuguese, thediocese of Tangierwas asuffraganofLisbonbut, in 1570, it was united with thediocese of Ceuta.Six Bishops of Tangier from this period are known, the first—who did not reside in his see—in 1468. During the era of the French and Spanish protectorates over Morocco, Tangier was the residence of thePrefect Apostolicof Morocco, the mission having been founded on 28 November 1630 and entrusted to theFriars Minor.At the time, it had a Catholic church, several chapels, schools and a hospital. The Prefecture Apostolic was raised to the status ofVicariate Apostolicof Morocco on 14 April 1908. On 14 November 1956, it became theArchdiocese of Tangier.[98]

Moroccan Christians from Tangier.

The city also has the Anglicanchurch of Saint Andrew.Since independence in 1956, the European population has decreased substantially. In the years leading up to theFirst World War,EuropeanChristiansformed almost a quarter the population of Tangier.[55][6]The city also is still home to a small community ofMoroccan Christians,as well as a small group of foreignRoman CatholicandProtestantresidents.[99][100]

Jews have along historyin Tangier. In the years leading up to theFirst World War,Jewsformed almost a quarter the population of Tangier.[55][6]According to theWorld Jewish Congressthere were only 150Moroccan Jewsremaining in Tangier.[101]

Sport

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Tangierians regard football as the primary entertainment when it comes to sport-material. There are several football fields around the city. Tangier would have been one of the host cities for the2015 Africa Cup of Nationsfootball tournament, which would be played at the newIbn Batouta Stadiumand in other cities across Morocco, until Morocco was banned from participating theAfrica Cup of Nationsdue to their denial.[102]Instead Tangier will host matches for the2025 editionafter Guinea withdraw from hosting. It could also host matches for the2030 FIFA World Cup.

Basketball comes the second most practised sport in Tangier. The city is known for their local teams IRT, Ajax Tanger, Juventus Tangier and so on.

National Cricket Stadiumis the only top-class cricket stadium inMorocco.Stadium hosted its first International Tournament from 12 to 21 August 2002.Pakistan,South AfricaandSri Lankacompeted in a 50-overs one daytriangular series.TheInternational Cricket Councilhas granted international status to the Tangier Cricket Stadium, official approval that will allow it to becomeNorth Africa's first international cricket venue.

Museums

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TheMuseum of the American Legation,whose building was granted to the United States in 1821 by the Sultan Moulay Suliman served as a consulate of the United States and a later legation, as well as a high traffic post for the intelligence agents of the Second World War and a Peace Corps training facility. Today, its courtyards and narrow corridors serve as an elaborate museum that demonstrates relations between the United States and Morocco and the Moroccan heritage, including a wing dedicated toPaul Bowles,where you can see the documents and photographs of the writer donated to the museum by the gallerist and friend of the writerGloria Kirbyin 2010.[103]

Fondation Lorin(Musée de la Fondation Lorin) opened in 1930 in a former synagogue. In addition to art, there are newspapers, photographs and posters on display.[104]

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Main article:Tangier in popular culture

Espionage

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Tangier has been reputed as asafe housefor internationalspyingactivities.[105]Its position during theCold Warand during other spying periods of the 19th and 20th centuries is legendary.

Tangier acquired the reputation of a spying and smuggling centre and attracted foreign capital due to political neutrality and commercial liberty at that time. It was via a British bank in Tangier that theBank of Englandin 1943 for the first time obtained samples of the high-quality forged British currency produced by the Nazis in "Operation Bernhard".

The city has also been a subject for manyspy fictionbooks and films.

Notable people

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Main article:List of people from Tangier

Twin towns – sister cities

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See also:List of twin towns and sister cities in Morocco

Tangier istwinnedwith:[108]

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  • Panoramic view of Tangier
  • Old tribunal,Kasbah Mosque,Kasbah Palaceentrance andBayt al-mal(treasury), c.1900
  • Former palace entrance, treasury and prison, 2015
  • Jewish Cemetery
  • Souk
  • City walls

See also

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References

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Citations

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  112. ^"Decentralized international cooperation".saint-josse.irisnet.be.Saint-Josse-ten-Noode. 2019-05-21.Retrieved2020-10-19.

General bibliography

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See also:Bibliography of the history of Tangier
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