Vietnamese clothingis the traditional style of clothing worn inVietnamby theVietnamese people.The traditional style has both indigenous and foreign elements due to the diverse cultural exchanges during the history of Vietnam. This all eventually led to the birth of a distinctive Vietnamese style of clothing, including the birth of the unofficial national dress of Vietnam, theáo dài.

Vietnamese clothing
Trang phục Việt Nam
A woman from Northern Vietnam wearing anáo tứ thân,a common dress in the north.
A woman from Southern Vietnam wearing anáo bà ba,a common dress in theMekong delta.
Vietnamese name
Vietnamese alphabetTrang phục Việt Nam
Quần áo Việt Nam
Hán-NômTrang phục việt nam
Quần áo việt nam
The postcard depicts two women wearing an áo ngũ thân while holding aba tầmhat.
Nguyễn dynastyofficials wearing formal clothing duringLễ tế Nam Giao.

For daily wear in Vietnam, Vietnamese people just wear normal everyday clothing (đồ Tây; Western clothing), but the common name for everyday clothing is quần áo thường ngày (literally "normal day clothing" ).

History

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The clothing and textile history of Vietnam reflects the culture and tradition that has been developed since the ancient Bronze Age wherein people of diverse cultures were living in Vietnam, the long influence of the Chinese and their associated cultural influence, as well as the short-livedFrench colonial rule.[1]: 9 The dynamic cultural exchanges which took place with those foreign cultural influences had a significant impact on the history of clothing in Vietnam; this has eventually lead to the birth to a distinctive Vietnamese clothing style, theáo dàiis only one of such clothing for example.[1]: 9 Moreover, as Vietnam has multiple ethnicities, there are many distinctive styles of clothing which reflect their wearer's ethnicity.[1]: 20 

Since the ancient times, textiles used and produced in Vietnam have beensilkin Northern Vietnam,barkcloth,and banana fiber cloth; kapok andhempwere also generally used prior to the introduction ofcotton.[1]: 1–2, 17 

For at least a thousand years,Vietnamwas ruled by the Chinese in the north while the south of Vietnam was ruled by the Indian-culture influenced, independent kingdom ofChampa.[1]: 1–2 During this period, the clothing styles which were developed in Vietnam contained both indigenous and imported foreign elements; the upper classes tended to be more easily influenced by those foreign influences than the common people.[1]: 1–2 The upper classes of Vietnam in Northern Vietnam tended to wear clothing which mirrored and was influenced by the fashions of the Chinese, and this style of clothing persisted even after the end of the Chinese rule in the independent kingdom ofĐại Việtand inChampa.[1]: 1–2 

For centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top (yếm) underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt (váyorquần không đáy). It was until the 1920s in Vietnam's north area in isolated hamlets where skirts were worn.[2]Before theNguyễn dynasty,the cross-collared robe (áo tràng vạt) was worn popularly.[3][4]: 295 

Bách Việt period (1000 BC - 1 BC)

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Most of ancient northern Vietnam was referred as theLạc Việtwhich was considered to be part of theBaiyueregion in ancient Chinese texts.[1]: 26 Prior to the Chinese conquest, theTainobles first came in Northern Vietnam during theĐông Sơn era,and they started to assimilate the local Mon-Khmer and Kra-dai people in a processed referred asTai-izationorTai-ificationas the Tai people were politically and culturally dominant inBaiyue;this led to the adoption of the Tai people's clothing and the formation of dress style influenced by the Tai people.[1]: 20, 26 [dubiousdiscuss]

The Han Chinese referred to the various non-Han "barbarian" peoples of North Vietnam and Southern China as "Yue" (Việt) orBaiyue,saying they possessed common habits like adapting to water, having their hair cropped short and having tattoos.[5][6]

Nanyue

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Nanyue(204 BC–111 BC) was an independent state which was founded by a Chinese general.[7]However, in theKingdom of Nanyue,it was the elite who were primarily influenced byChinese clothingas the presence of the Chinese was limited.[1]: 21 The clothing of the elites of Nanyue was mixed of Tai andChinese clothingstyles.[1]: 50 [dubiousdiscuss]The clothing of the Elites include Chinese fashion from theWarring States periodand theQin dynasty;the style of clothing was mainly a V-shaped collar gown which was tight fitting that was folded to the right.[1]: 50 The clothing was multi-layered; it was common to wear three layers of clothing and tended to have narrow and straight sleeves.[1]: 50 The elites women on the other-hand tended to wear a blouse and a skirt.[1]: 50 

Chinese Conquest Period of Vietnam

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TheKingdom of Nanyue(204 BC–111 BC) was conquered and ruled by theHan Chineseunder theHan dynastyin 111 BC.[7]The Chinese ruled over Northern Vietnam for 1000 years until c. 900 AD.[7][1]: 21 This time, it was the Chinese which lead to acculturation process referred asSinicization.[1]: 21 The clothing of officials in Northern Vietnam followed the regulations of the Chinese dress.[1]: 50 However, even during theHan dynasty(202 BC – 220 AD), there was still very little Chinese migration into Northern Vietnam.[1]: 21 It was in the subsequent centuries after the fall of theHan dynastythat there was a large influx of Chinese in the region ofAnnan.[1]: 21 

From 43 AD to 939 AD, the direct rule of the Chinese in Northern Vietnam led to the Chinese clothing influence on the local clothing styles, especially the local elites; this also included the leaders who rebelled against the rule of the Chinese who typically wore Chinese-style clothing.[1]: 50 The Elites wore clothing made of silk which were colourful and decorated while commoners wore plain hemp-based clothing.[1]: 50 According to theBook of the Later HanbyFan Ye,the civilization ofLingnanstarted with Ren Yan and Xi Guang (both Han Officials inJiaozhiandJiuzhenrespectively) who were credited for introducing hats and sandals to the people of Lingnan along with many other aspects, such as agriculture.[4]: 25 

Non-Chinese immigrants were attracted to theTang dynasty-ruledAnnan,and non-Chinese migrants started settling in the neighbouring areas; the blending of Chinese culture, Mon-Khmer, and Tai-Kradai in northern Vietnam led to the development of the national majority, theVietnamese people.[1]: 21 The elites followed the Chinese clothing system more closely once the regions had been incorporated into the Chinese imperial system.[1]: 21 During the thousand years of imperial domination, the Vietnamese adoptedChinese clothing,but local customs and styles yet were not assimilated and lost.[7]

Lý dynasty to Trần dynasty (1009–1400)

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After Northern Vietnam became independent from China, the Vietnamese elites both followed the Chinese fashions and created distinctive, but still heavily Chinese-influenced local Vietnamese styles.[1]: 21 The Chinese style dress gradually spread to Vietnamese commoners and among the people who were living in the surrounding regions which was being formally ruled by the Vietnamese; however, the form of the commoner clothing were distinct from those worn by the elite class.[1]: 21 Almost all male commoners of the Việt ethnic and ethnic minorities started to wear Chinese style trousers and shirts.[1]: 21 

Vietnamese wore a round neck costume, which was made from 4 parts of cloth called áo tứ điên.[8]Both men and women wore it. There are also other types such as:áo tràng vạt(long-flap robe). The garments "áo" (áo is for the upper part of body) are below knee length, and round neck garments have buttons when the long-flap robe is tied to the right.

The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains –Trần dynasty

Short hair or a shaven head was popular in Vietnam since the ancient period. Vietnamese men had shaven head or short hair during Trần dynasty.[9]This can be seen in the painting"The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains"which portrayed EmperorTrần Nhân Tôngand his men during the Trần dynasty[10]as well as the Chinese encyclopedia "Sancai Tuhui"from 17th century. The convention was popular until theFourth Chinese domination of Vietnam.

Hồ dynasty (1400–1407)

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In 1400s, Emperor Lê Quý Ly wrote a poem to describe his country and his government to the Ming dynasty envoys, explaining shared cultural status betweenĐại Nguand Ming by referring to the Han and Tang dynasties during a time when Đại Việt was a part of China,"You inquire about the state of affairs in Annan. Annan’s customs are simple and pure. Moreover, official clothing is according to the Tang system. The rites and music that control intercourse between the ruler and the officials are those of the Han[...]".[4]: 72 

Fourth Chinese domination of Vietnam (1407–1427)

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When the Han Chinese ruled the Vietnamese in theFourth Chinese domination of Vietnam,due to theMing dynasty's conquest during theMing–Hồ Warthey imposed the Han Chinese style of men wearing long hair on short-haired Vietnamese men. The Vietnamese were ordered to stop cutting their hair and instead to grow their hair long and switch to Han Chinese clothing within a month by a Ming official. Ming administrators said their mission was to civilize the unorthodox Vietnamese barbarians.[11]Women had to wear Chinese style clothing.[12]: 528 The Ming dynasty only wanted the Vietnamese to wear long hair and to stopteeth blackeningso they could have white teeth and long hair like Chinese.[13]: 110 

Later Lê dynasty (1428–1789)

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In 1435,Nguyễn Trãi,a scholar official, and his colleagues compiled theGeography(Dư địa chí)based on the lessons he had taught to the prince, who then became EmperorLê Thái Tông;his teachings also included how Vietnamese were different from their neighbours in terms of language and clothing customs:"The people of our land should not adopt the languages or the clothing of the lands of the Wu [Ming], Champa, the Lao, Siam, or Zhenla [Cambodia], since doing so will bring chaos to the customs of our land".[4]: 138 [13]: 82 They viewed the Ming as having been affected by Mongolian customs in terms of clothing customs (e.g. with their hair hanging down the back, white teeth, short clothing, long sleeves, and bright and lustrous robes and caps) despite returning to the ways ofHanandTangand the people of Lao as wearing Indian-style clothing like the robes of Buddhist monks "like the irrigated fields of dysfunctional families".[4]: 138 [13]: 82 Therefore, they considered that all those styles, including those of Champa and Khmer, should not be worn as they disregarded the customs of the Vietnamese, who continued to follow the rites of Zhou and Song dynasties: in theDư địa chí,it is written that according to the scholar Lý Tử Tấn, during the reign ofTrần Dụ Tông,Emperor Taizu of Mingbestowed a poem saying, "An Nan [Đại Việt] has the Trần clan, and its customs are not those of the Yuan [Mongols]. Its clothing and caps are in the classic pattern of theZhou dynasty.Its rites and music follow the relationship between ruler and minister, as in theSong dynasty”and therefore Emperor Taizu promoted the ambassador of Đại Việt (Đoàn Thuận Thân) by 3 ranks to be equal that ofJoseon.[4]: 138 

The Lê dynasty encouraged the civilians to return to traditional customs:teeth blackeningas well as short hair or shaved heads. A royal edict was issued by Vietnam in 1474 forbidding Vietnamese from adopting foreign languages, hairstyles and clothes like that of the Lao, Champa or the "Northerners" which referred to the Ming. The edict was recorded in the 1479Complete Chronicle of Đại ViệtofNgô Sĩ Liên.[4]: 87 

Revival Lê dynasty

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The dragon robe (áo Long Bào) was worn in Vietnam since theRestored Late-Lê period,Phan Huy Chúwrote in theCategorized Records of the Institutions of Successive Dynasties(Lịch triều hiến chương loại chí):[14]

"Since the Restored Later-Lê era, for grand and formal occasions, (the emperors) always wore Xung Thiên hat and Long Bào robe...."

Through many portraits and images of rulers during theMing,Joseon,and more recently, during theNguyễn dynasty,one could see that this standard (the wearing of Long Bào) existed for a long period of time within a very large region.[14]

Đàng Trong and Đàng Ngoài

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Before 1744, people of bothĐàng Ngoài(Tonkin) andĐàng Trong(Cochinchina) woreáo tràng vạtwith athường(a kind of long skirt; thường ). The tràng vạt dress appeared very early on in Vietnamese history, possibly during the first Chinese domination by Eastern Han, afterMa Yuanwas able to finally defeat theTrưng Sisters’ rebellion.Those of the lower classes would prefer sleeves with reasonable widths or tight sleeves, and of simple colors. This stemmed from its flexibility in work, allowing people to move around with ease.[14]Both male and female had loose long hair.

TheNguyễn lordswere key players in promoting Chinese-influenced clothing in Central and Southern Vietnam where they expanded their territories and extended control over all the territories which used to be ruled by Champa and theKhmer Empire.[1]: 73 While expanding their territories, Vietnamese people immigrated to the south and the Nguyễn lords allowed Ming dynasty Chinese refugees to settle in those areas, thus creating a mixed society which was composed of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Cham peoples.[1]: 73 Both Vietnamese and the Chinese brought their own clothing style inĐàng Trong(Huế) and continued to wear their clothing until a proclamation by LordNguyễn Phúc Khoátwho decreed that all the people under his rule had to changed their clothing intoMing-influenced Chinese clothing in order to make his people dressed differently from those under the rule of the Trịnh lords.[1]: 73 As a result, the gown and skirt which was worn by the Vietnamese and which was common in the north was replaced by trousers and gown with Chinese-influenced fasteners; this new form of clothing was described byLê Quý Đônas the predessor to theáo dài,the áo ngũ thân which was composed of a 5-piece gown.[1]: 73 In 1744, LordNguyễn Phúc KhoátofĐàng Trong(Huế) both men and women at his court wear trousers and a gown with buttons down the front. The members of theĐàng Trongcourt (southern court) were thus distinguished from the courtiers of theTrịnh LordsinĐàng Ngoài(Hanoi),[15][4]: 295 who woreáo tràng vạtwith long skirts.[1]: 72 

Nguyễn dynasty (1802–1945)

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During unified period of Vietnam, the people in the northern and southern regions of Vietnam (i.e. previously Champa) continued to wear their local ethnic clothing.[1]: 1–2 In the Southern regions, the people continued to wear their local clothing and became increasingly similar whereas in the northern regions, the clothing worn was very varied.[1]: 1–2 When the Vietnamese started to assimilate the majority of the Cham and the Khmer Krom living in their new conquered southern territories; and the Vietnamese-ification of the Cham and the Khmer Krom lead to them adopting Vietnamese style clothing while at the same time retaining several distinctive ethnic elements.[1]: 21 

Áo ngũ thân (predecessor of the currentáo dài,which made of 5 parts) withstanding collarand trousers was forced on Vietnamese people by theNguyễn dynasty.Skirts (váy) were banned due to EmperorMinh Mệnh's extremeNeo-Confucianism.[16]However, it was up to the 1920s in Vietnam's north area in isolated hamlets where skirts were worn.

The Vietnamese had adopted the Chinese political system and culture during the 1,000 years of Chinese rule, but after the Qing conquest of China, Han Chinese were forced to adapt to Manchurian customs like wearing aqueue.So the Vietnamese viewed their surrounding neighbors like Khmer and the Han Chinese under the Qing dynasty as barbarians and themselves as asmall version of China(the Middle Kingdom) who still maintained Han culture (civilised culture).[17]By theNguyễn dynasty,the Vietnamese themselves were ordering theKhmerto adoptHan Chinese cultureby ceasing "barbarous" habits like cropping hair and ordering them to grow it long besides making them replace skirts with trousers.[18]

Áo tràng vạtwas still worn during Nguyễn dynasty. Other styles of clothing were also created during this time such as the áo nhật bình and theáo tấc[vi](formal wear for rituals and formal occasions).

Theáo dàiwas created whentuckswhich were close-fitting and compact were added in the 1920s to the áo ngũ thân. The Chinese-influenced clothing in the form of trousers and tunic were mandated by the Nguyễn dynasty. The Chinese Ming dynasty, Tang dynasty, and Han dynasty clothing was referenced in order to be adopted by the Vietnamese military and bureaucrats by the Nguyễn Lord,Nguyễn Phúc Khoát(Nguyễn Thế Tông) from 1744.[4]: 295 

Twentieth century

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From the twentieth century onward,Vietnamese peoplebegan wearing Western clothing due to modernisation and French influence. The áo dài was briefly banned after thefall of Saigon,but was reintroduced back into the scene.[19]It is worn in white by high school girls, often as part of school uniform in Vietnam. It is also worn by female receptionists and secretaries. Styles can differ in Northern and Southern Vietnam.[20]The most popular type of Vietnamese clothing today, is theáo dàifor men and women, and suits or sometimesáo gấm(modified áo dài) for men.

Twenty-first century

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In the 21st century, some companies and individuals are working on reviving, preserving, and upholding Vietnamese traditional culture, including Vietnamese clothing and designs. In 2013, researcherTrần Quang Đứcpublished the bookNgàn năm áo mũ,marking the first step in restoring traditional costumes in Vietnam. Currently, there are many companies that research and reproduce traditional Vietnamese clothing, for example, a company calledỶ Vân Hiênstarted to provide tailoring services of ancient Vietnamese clothing which included theáo ngũ thânandáo tràng vạt.[21]Ỷ Vân Hiêncompany largely reproduces clothing worn in theNguyễn dynastyperiod.[22]Other tailoring companies, such as Trần Thị Trang's company specializes in making ancient Vietnamese clothing which was typically worn between theNgô dynastyand theNguyễn dynasty.[23]Painter Cù Minh Khôi and his friends launched theHoa Văn Đại Việt projectwhich digitized 250 ancient Vietnamese decorative patterns which spanned from theLý dynastytoNguyễn dynastyand applied them to variety of modern products such askeychains,calendars,T-shirts,and lucky money packets.[21]

In 2018, a book calledDệt Nên Triều ĐạiinVietnamese languageandWeaving a RealminEnglish languagewas published by the Vietnam Centre, an independent, non-government and non-profit organization which aims to promoteVietnamese cultureto the world.[24]The book contained historical facts about ancient Vietnamese fashion, illustrations and photos.[25]The bookDệt Nên Triều Đạionly covers the early years of theLater Lêera's clothing traditions from 1437 to 1471 AD after theMing dynasty'sforces were defeated by Emperor Lê Lợi.[25]

In 2008, there was a festival inHuế,where theNam Giaoceremony[26]was performed again after being revived again for the first time in 2004. Traditional clothing was worn during the ceremony and highlighted the clothing worn during theNguyễn dynasty(however, some of the clothing of the Nguyễn dynasty in this event are still inaccurate).

Types of clothing

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Áo dài

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A woman in Cần Thơ wearing an áo dài and a nón lá.

Theáo dàiis considered to be the traditional Vietnamesenational garment.Besides suits and dresses nowadays, men and women can also wear áo dài on formal occasions. It is a long, splittunicworn over trousers.Áotranslates as shirtand dàimeans "long". The outfit was derived from its predecessor, the áo ngũ thân, a five piece outfit that was worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The male version of áo dài or modified áo dài are also worn during weddings or formal occasions. The áo dài can be paired with thenón láor thekhăn vấn.

Diagram showing the parts of an áo dài

Parts of the outfit

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  • Tà sau: back flap
  • Nút bấm thân áo: hooks used as fasteners and holes
  • Ống tay: sleeve
  • Đường bên: inside seam
  • Nút móc kết thúc: main hook and hole
  • Tà trước: front flap
  • Khuy cổ: collar button
  • Cổ áo: collar
  • Đường may: seam
  • Kích (eo): waist

Khăn vấn

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Khăn vấnorkhăn đóngis a kind of turban traditionally worn byVietnamese people.The wordvấnmeanscoil around.The wordkhănmeans cloth, towel or scarf. It is typically worn with other outfits, most often the áo dài. The Nguyễn Lords introduced the predecessor to the áo dài, theáo ngũ thân.It was traditionally worn with a handwrapped turban. The members of theĐàng Trongcourt (southern court) were thus distinguished from the courtiers of theTrịnh LordsinĐàng Ngoài,who woreáo tràng vạtwith long skirts and loose long hair. Hence, wrapping scarf around head became a unique custom in the south then. From 1830,Minh Mạngemperor force every civilian in the country to change their clothes, that custom became popular in the all ofVietnam.

Áo tứ thân

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Áo tứ thân is a traditional Vietnamese dress for women,[27][28][29]especially popular in theNorthern region.[30][31][32]It is made from four pieces of cloth, two front panels and two back panels.[33]According to researchers, Áo tứ thân may have originated from theLý dynasty.[34]Initially, Áo tứ thân was worn by both men and women, but gradually became the traditional dress of women.[35][36]

Áo tứ thân is a symbol ofVietnamese culture.[37][38]It is associated with the image ofVietnamese womenwho are gentle, graceful, and capable.[39]Today, Áo tứ thân is not as widely used as before.[40]However, Áo tứ thân is still loved by many people and worn on traditional festivals such as chầu văn festivals,[41]village festivals,[42]andMid-Autumn festival[43][44][45],...

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Examples of garments

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  • Áo nhật bình - a popular costume for the nobility under theNguyễn dynasty.
  • Áo giao lĩnh- is a type of cross-collared robe that was commonly used throughout all dynasties of Vietnam, but by the Nguyễn dynasty, áo giao lĩnh was only used in rituals. Also known as áo tràng vạt.
  • Áo viên lĩnh - Is a type of round neck shirt popular throughout the dynasties of Vietnam, under the Nguyễn dynasty they were still used as vestments for mandarins, emperors, empress, and royal aristocrats.
  • Áo tứ điên - is a type of áo viên lĩnh, this costume was popular before the Nguyễn dynasty, especially popular in the Lý and Trần dynasties.
  • Áo đối khâm - a type of costume usually worn outside, popular in the Lý - Trần dynasties.
  • Áo tứ thân- a four-piece woman's dress widely popular in the North of Vietnam.
  • Áo ngũ thân - a dress with five parts, this costume is divided into two types: áo ngũ thân tay chẽn (áo chẽn) and áo ngũ thân tay thụng (áo tấc). In addition, this dress is also the predecessor of the áo dài.
  • Khăn mỏ quạ - crow beak scarf is a traditional headscarf of ancient Vietnamese women.
  • Áo yếm- woman's undergarment.
  • Áo gấm– formal brocade tunic for government receptions, or áo the for the man in weddings.
  • Mũ chữ Đinh- It is a type of hat with the shape of the character Đinh ( đinh ), it was worn by officers and middle-class men during the Lê dynasty.
  • Mũ Phốc Đầu- formal headwear for the royal court, traditionally mandarin officials wore it. It is derived from the ChineseFutou.
  • Nón láand nónba tầm(nón quai thao) - traditional hats worn in the south and north of Vietnam.
  • Khăn vấn– a type of turban worn by theVietnamese peoplefromNguyễn dynastyto the present day.
  • Áo tràng Phật tử – typically shortened to "áo tràng" it is a robe worn by Upāsaka and Upāsikā in Vietnamese Buddhist temples.[c]
  • Áo dài– the typical Vietnamese formal dress
  • Áo bà ba– two-piece ensemble for men and women[46]
  • Kiềng– a traditional necklace typically made out of gold, worn on special occasions such as weddings, festivals, or other important ceremonies.

Notes

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  1. ^The dress was taken as a trophy by Garnier in the capture of Hanoi in 1873
  2. ^Objects for worship, at the National Museum Vietnamese History
  3. ^Typically light blue but can be found in brown and is similar to the ones worn by Vietnamese Buddhist monastics in regards to the trademark collar similar to the Áo Giao lĩnh but without the sleeves with hidden pockets. While there are matching pants they are not a required part of the outfit for the laity. They are also known as áo giao lĩnh.

See also

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References

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  1. ^abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzaaabacadaeafagahHoward, Michael C. (2016).Textiles and clothing of Viet Nam: a history.Jefferson, North Carolina.ISBN978-1-4766-6332-6.OCLC933520702.{{cite book}}:CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  2. ^A. Terry Rambo (2005).Searching for Vietnam: Selected Writings on Vietnamese Culture and Society.Kyoto University Press. p. 64.ISBN978-1-920901-05-9.
  3. ^T., Van (4 July 2013)."Ancient costumes of Vietnam".VietNamNet Global.
  4. ^abcdefghiDutton, George; Werner, Jayne; Whitmore, John K., eds. (2012).Sources of Vietnamese Tradition.Introduction to Asian Civilizations (illustrated ed.). Columbia University Press.ISBN978-0231511100.
  5. ^Bulletin of the Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association, Issue 15.Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association. 1996. p. 94.
  6. ^Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association. Congress (1996).Indo-Pacific Prehistory: The Chiang Mai Papers, Volume 2.Bulletin of the Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association. Vol. 2 of Indo-Pacific Prehistory: Proceedings of the 15th Congress of the Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association, Chiang Mai, Thailand, 5–12 January 1994. The Chiang Mai Papers. Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association, Australian National University. p. 94.
  7. ^abcdMontero, Darrel (2019).Vietnamese Americans patterns of resettlement and socioeconomic adaptation in the United States.London: Taylor & Francis.ISBN978-1-000-00451-9.OCLC1159420864.
  8. ^Trần, Quang Đức (2013).Ngàn năm áo mũ.Vietnam: Công Ty Văn Hóa và Truyền Thông Nhã Nam. pp. 88–89.ISBN978-1629883700.
  9. ^Wang, Qi (1609).Sancai Tuhui.China.
  10. ^Thạch cừ bảo cấp bí điện châu lâm tục biên(PDF)(in Chinese).
  11. ^The Vietnam Review: VR., Volume 3.Vietnam Review. 1997. p. 35.
  12. ^Columbia chronologies of Asian history and culture.John Stewart Bowman. New York: Columbia University Press. 2000.ISBN0-231-50004-1.OCLC51542679.{{cite book}}:CS1 maint: others (link)
  13. ^abcBaldanza, Kathlene (2016).Ming China and Vietnam: Negotiating Borders in Early Modern Asia.Cambridge, United Kingdom.ISBN978-1-107-12424-0.OCLC922694609.{{cite book}}:CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  14. ^abcOrganization, Vietnam Centre (2020).Weaving a Realm (Dệt Nên Triều Đại).Vietnam: Dân Trí Publisher.ISBN978-604-88-9574-7.
  15. ^Tran, My-Van (2005).A Vietnamese Royal Exile in Japan: Prince Cuong De (1882–1951).Routledge.ISBN978-0415297165.
  16. ^Woodside, Alexander (1988).Vietnam and the Chinese Model: A Comparative Study of Vietnamese and Chinese Government in the First Half of the Nineteenth Century.Harvard University Asia Center. pp.134.ISBN9780674937215.
  17. ^Chanda, Nayan (1986).Brother Enemy: The War After the War(illustrated ed.). Harcourt Brace Jovanovich. pp. 53, 111.ISBN9780151144204.
  18. ^Chandler, David (2018).A History of Cambodia(4 ed.). Routledge. p. 153.ISBN978-0429964060.
  19. ^Vo, Nghia M. (2011).Saigon: A History.McFarland. p. 202.ISBN9780786464661.The new government banned the wearing of the traditional áo dài. Their income from sewing áo dài suddenly plummeted, forcing them to sell everything to survive: refrigerator, radio, food, and clothing. Only after the ban was lifted ten years later
  20. ^Taylor, Philip (2007).Modernity and Re-enchantment: Religion in Post-revolutionary Vietnam.Institute of Southeast Asian Studies. p. 157.ISBN9789812304407.The contemporary versions of Áo dài are of considerable sociological interest as they represent regional variations, as well as age and gender arrangements (men rarely wear them nowadays and usually dress in Western-style suits
  21. ^ab"Vietnamese youngsters work to retrieve the glory of ancient culture".en.nhandan.vn.28 April 2019.Retrieved7 August2021.
  22. ^AGENCY."The designer making Vietnamese 19th-century outfits fashionable again".The Star.Retrieved7 August2021.
  23. ^"Vietnamese woman revives country's ancient clothes".Tuoi Tre News.8 October 2019.Retrieved7 August2021.
  24. ^"Home | Vietnam Centre - Bring Vietnam To You".Vietnam Centre.Retrieved7 August2021.
  25. ^ab"Weaving a Realm: Documenting Vietnam's Royal Costumes From the 15th Century | Saigoneer".saigoneer.com.Retrieved7 August2021.
  26. ^"Festival Huế 2008: Tôn nghiêm lễ tế Nam Giao".5 June 2008.
  27. ^"Nỗi lo biến dạng trang phục truyền thống".laodong.vn(in Vietnamese). 23 June 2023.Retrieved22 January2024.
  28. ^Trí, Dân (15 September 2018)."Bất ngờ tà áo tứ thân của Trần Huyền Nhung xuất hiện ở phố lồng đèn Hội An".Báo điện tử Dân Trí(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
  29. ^Phụ nữ miền Nam(in Vietnamese). Bảo tàng phụ nữ Nam Bộ. 1993.
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  31. ^VCCorp.vn (31 December 2016)."Chiếc áo dài truyền thống Việt Nam đã biến đổi như thế nào từ" thời ông bà anh "".afamily.vn(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
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  33. ^Lưu, Minh Trị (2002).Tìm trong di sản văn hoá Việt Nam: Thăng Long-Hà Nội(in Vietnamese). Nhà xuất bản Văn hoá-thông tin.
  34. ^"Áo dài: Nét đẹp văn hóa truyền thống của người phụ nữ Việt Nam".Báo mega.vietnamplus.vn(in Vietnamese). 26 October 2023.Retrieved22 January2024.
  35. ^hanoimoi.vn (29 September 2005)."Nét đẹp văn hoá trong trang phục cổ người Hà Nội".hanoimoi.vn(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
  36. ^VTV, BAO DIEN TU (20 October 2020)."Ngắm nhìn những tà áo dài phụ nữ Việt Nam trong 400 năm qua".BAO DIEN TU VTV(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
  37. ^Đô, Báo Tuổi Trẻ Thủ."Gần 70 thí sinh Miss Grand International 2023 đồng loạt diện áo tứ thân".Báo Tuổi Trẻ Thủ Đô(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
  38. ^VTV, BAO DIEN TU (21 October 2016)."Áo tứ thân của Nguyễn Thị Loan lọt top 10 trang phục dân tộc đẹp nhất".BAO DIEN TU VTV(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
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  43. ^Trí, Dân (13 September 2019)."Chị Hằng Nga phiên bản nhí diện trang phục truyền thống đón Trung thu".Báo điện tử Dân Trí(in Vietnamese).Retrieved22 January2024.
  44. ^Nguyễn, Văn Hoa (2011).Custom t shirt(in Vietnamese). Nhà xuất bản Chính trị quốc gia-Sự thật.
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  46. ^Harms, Erik (2011).Saigon's Edge: On the Margins of Ho Chi Minh City.University of Minnesota Press. p.56.ISBN9780816656059.She then left the room to change out of her áo Ba Ba into her everyday home clothes, which did not look like peasant clothes at all. In Hóc Môn, traders who sell goods in the city don "peasant clothing" for their trips to the city and change back
  • Nguyễn Khắc Thuần (2005),Danh tướng Việt Nam,Nhà Xuất bản Giáo dục.

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