Wikipedia

Anna Wintour

For the song, seeAnna Wintour (song).

Dame Anna Wintour(/ˈwɪntər/WIN-tər;born 3 November 1949[1]) is a British-American[2][3]media executive, who has been serving aseditor-in-chiefofVoguesince 1988. Wintour has also served as global chief content officer ofCondé Nastsince 2020, where she oversees all Condé Nast publications worldwide, and concurrently serves as artistic director. Wintour is also global editorial director ofVogue.[4]With her trademarkpageboybob haircutand dark sunglasses, Wintour is regarded as the most powerful woman in publishing, and has become an important figure in the fashion world, serving as the leadchairpersonof the annualhaute coutureMet Galaglobal fashion spectacle inManhattansince the 1990s. Wintour is praised for her skill in identifying emerging fashion trends, but has been criticised for her reportedly aloof and demanding personality.

Dame
Anna Wintour
CHDBE
Wintour in 2024
Born(1949-11-03)3 November 1949(age 75)
London,England
Citizenship
  • United Kingdom
  • United States
Education
Years active1975–present
EmployerCondé Nast
Notable credits
Title
PredecessorGrace Mirabella
Political partyDemocratic
Board member ofMetropolitan Museum of Art
Spouses
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(m.1984;div.1999)​
​
​
(m.2004;div.2020)​
Children2
FatherCharles Wintour
Relatives
Signature

Her father,Charles Wintour,who was Editor of the London-basedEvening Standardfrom 1959 to 1976, consulted with her on how to make the newspaper relevant to the youth of the era. She became interested in fashion as a teenager and her career infashion journalismbegan at two British magazines. Later, she moved to the United States, with stints atNew YorkandHouse & Garden.She returned to London and was the Editor ofBritishVoguebetween 1985 and 1987. A year later, she assumed control of the franchise's magazine in New York, reviving what many saw as a stagnating publication. Her use of the magazine to shape thefashion industryhas been the subject of debate within it.Animal rightsactivists have attacked her for promoting fur, while other critics have charged her with using the magazine to promote elitist and unattainable views of femininity and beauty.

A former personal assistant,Lauren Weisberger,wrote the bestselling 2003roman à clefThe Devil Wears Prada,later made into a successful2006 filmstarringMeryl StreepasMiranda Priestly,a fashion editor, believed to be based on Wintour. In 2009, Wintour's editorship ofVoguewas the original focus of a documentary film,R. J. Cutler'sThe September Issue.The film's focus switched to the creative teams and more senior fashion editors as filming progressed.[5]

Early life and education

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Wintour was born inHampstead,London, toCharles Wintour(1917–1999), editor of theEvening Standard,and Eleanor "Nonie" Trego Baker (1917–1995), an American and the daughter of aHarvard Law Schoolprofessor.[6]Her parents were married in 1940 and divorced in 1979.[7]Wintour was named after her maternal grandmother, Anna Baker (née Gilkyson), a merchant's daughter fromPennsylvania.[8]Audrey Slaughter, a magazine editor who founded publications includingHoneyandPetticoat,was her stepmother.[9][10]

Wintour's grandfather was Major-GeneralFitzgerald Wintour,a British military officer and descendant ofGeorge Grenville,who served asPrime minister of the United Kingdom.Through her paternal grandmother, Alice Jane Blanche Foster, Wintour is a great-great-great-granddaughter of the late-18th-century novelistLady Elizabeth Foster,who was later theDuchess of Devonshire,and her first husband, theIrishpoliticianJohn Thomas Foster.Her great-great-great-great-grandfather wasFrederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol,who served as the AnglicanBishop of Derry.Sir Augustus Vere Foster, 4th Baronet,the last Baronet of that name, was a granduncle of Wintour's.[11]She is a niece ofCordelia James, Baroness James of Rusholme,the daughter of Fitzgerald Wintour.[12]

Wintour had four siblings. Her older brother, Gerald, died in a traffic accident as a child.[13]One of her younger brothers,Patrick,is also a journalist, currently diplomatic editor ofThe Guardian.[14]James and Nora Wintour have worked in London local government and for international non-governmental organisations, respectively.[15]

Wintour attendedNorth London Collegiate School,where she frequently rebelled against thedress codeby taking up thehemlinesof her skirts.[16]At the age of 14, she began wearing her hair in abob.[17]She developed an interest in fashion as a regular viewer ofCathy McGowanonReady Steady Go!,[18]and from readingSeventeen,which her grandmother sent from the United States.[19]"Growing up inLondon in the '60s,you'd have to have hadIrving Penn's sack over your head not to know something extraordinary was happening in fashion ", she recalled.[20]Her father regularly consulted her when he was considering ideas for increasing readership in the youth market.[18]

Career

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From fashion to journalism

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"I think my father really decided for me that I should work in fashion", she recalled inThe September Issue.[19]He arranged for his daughter's first job, at the influentialBibaboutique, when she was 15.[21]The next year, she left North London Collegiate and began a training program atHarrods.At her parents' behest, she also took fashion classes at a nearby school. Soon she gave them up, saying, "You either know fashion or you don't."[22]An older boyfriend,Richard Neville,gave her her first experience of magazine production at his popular and controversialOz.[23]

In 1970, whenHarper's BazaarUKmerged withQueento becomeHarper's & Queen,Wintour was hired as one of its first editorial assistants, beginning her career infashion journalism.[24]She told her co-workers that she wanted to editVogue.[25]While there, she discovered model Annabel Hodin, a former North London classmate. Her connections helped her secure locations for innovative shoots byHelmut Newton,Jim Lee[26]and other trend-setting photographers.[27]One recreated the works ofRenoirandManetusing models ingo-go boots.[28]After chronic disagreements with her rival,Min Hogg,[29]she quit and moved to New York with her boyfriend, freelance journalistJon Bradshaw.[30]

New York City

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In her new home, she became a junior fashion editor atHarper's Bazaarin New York City in 1975.[28]Wintour's innovative shoots led editor Tony Mazzola to fire her after nine months.[31]She was reportedly introduced toBob Marleyby one of Bradshaw's friends, and disappeared with him for a week;[32]in a 2017 appearance onThe Late Late Show with James Corden,she said she had never actually met the reggae legend, but certainly would have "hooked up" with him if she had.[33]A few months later, Bradshaw helped her get her first position as a fashion editor, atViva,a women's adult magazine started byKathy Keeton,then the wife ofPenthousepublisherBob Guccione.She has rarely discussed working there, due to that connection.[34]This was the first job at which she was able to hire a personal assistant, which began her reputation as a demanding and difficult Boss.[35]

In late 1978, Guccione shut down the unprofitable magazine. Wintour decided to take some time off from work. She broke up with Bradshaw and began a relationship with French record producerMichel Esteban,for two years dividing her time with him between Paris and New York.[36]She returned to work in 1980, succeedingElsa Klenschas fashion editor for a new women's magazine namedSavvy.[37]It sought to appeal to career-conscious professional women who spent their own money,[38]the readers Wintour would later target atVogue.[39]

The following year, she became fashion editor ofNew York.[28]There, the fashion spreads and photo shoots she had been putting together for years finally began attracting attention. Editor Edward Kosner sometimes bent very strict rules for her and let her work on other sections of the magazine. She learned through her work on a cover involvingRachel Wardhow effectively celebrity covers sold copies.[40]"Anna saw the celebrity thing coming before everyone else did", Grace Coddington said three decades later.[41]A former colleague arranged for an interview withVogueeditorGrace Mirabellathat ended when Wintour told Mirabella she wanted her job.[42][43]

Condé Nast

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Further information:Condé Nast
Wintour's first U.S.Voguecover in November 1988, featuring modelMichaela Bercu.

She went to work atVoguewhen Alex Liberman, who was then the editorial director forCondé Nastand publisher ofVogue,talked to Wintour about a position there in 1983. She eventually accepted after a bidding war that doubled her salary, becoming the magazine's first creative director, a position with vaguely defined responsibilities.[44]Her changes to the magazine were often made without Mirabella's knowledge, causing friction among the staff.[45]She began dating child psychiatristDavid Shaffer,an older acquaintance from London.[46]They married in 1984.[47]

In 1985, Wintour attained her first editorship, taking over the UK edition ofVogueafterBeatrix Millerretired.[48]Once in charge, she replaced many of the staff and exerted far more control over the magazine than any previous editor had, earning the nickname "Nuclear Wintour" in the process.[49]Those editors who were retained began to refer to the period as "The Wintour of Our Discontent".[50]Her changes moved the magazine from its traditional eccentricity to a direction more in line with the American magazine. Wintour's ideal reader was the same womanSavvyhad tried to reach. "There's a new kind of woman out there", she told theEvening Standard."She's interested in business and money. She doesn't have time to shop anymore. She wants to know what and why and where and how."[37]

In 1987, Wintour returned to New York City to take overHouse & Garden.Its circulation had long lagged behind rivalArchitectural Digest,[51]and Condé Nast hoped she could improve it. Again, she made radical changes to staff and look, canceling $2 million worth of photo spreads and articles in her first week.[52]She put so much fashion in photo spreads that it became known as "House & Garment,"and enough celebrities that it was referred to as"Vanity Chair"within the industry.[39]These changes worsened the magazine's problems. When the title was shortened to justHG,many longtime subscribers thought they were getting a new magazine and put it aside for the real thing to arrive.[51]Most of those subscriptions were eventually canceled and, while some fashion advertisers came over, most of the magazine's traditional advertisers pulled out.[53]

Ten months later, she became editor of U.S.Vogue.Industry insiders worried that under Mirabella, the magazine was losing ground to the recently-introduced American edition ofElle.[37][39]After making sweeping changes in staff, Wintour changed the style of the cover pictures. Mirabella had preferred tighthead shotsof well-known models in studios; Wintour's covers showed more of the body and were taken outside, like thoseDiana Vreelandhad done years earlier.[37]She used less well-known models, and mixed inexpensive clothes with high fashion: the first issue she was in charge of, November 1988, featured aPeter Lindberghphotograph of 19-year-oldMichaela Bercuin a $50 pair of faded jeans and a bejeweled T-shirt byChristian Lacroixworth $10,000. It was the first time aVoguecover model had worn jeans;[39]when the printer saw it they called the magazine's offices, thinking it was the wrong image.[54]

In 2012, Wintour reflected on the cover:

It was so unlike the studied and elegant close-ups that were typical of Vogue's covers back then, with tons of makeup and major jewelry. This one broke all the rules. Michaela wasn't looking at you, and worse, she had her eyes almost closed. Her hair was blowing across her face. It looked easy, casual, a moment that had been snapped on the street, which it had been, and which was the whole point. Afterwards, in the way that these things can happen, people applied all sorts of interpretations: It was about mi xing high and low, Michaela was pregnant, it was a religious statement. But none of these things was true. I had just looked at that picture and sensed the winds of change. And you can't ask for more from a cover image than that.[55]

Years later, Wintour admitted the photo had never been planned as the cover shot. In 2011, whenVogueput its entire archive online, Wintour was quoted as saying, "I just said, 'Well, let's just try this.' And off we went. It was just very natural. To me it just said, 'This is something new. This is something different.' The printers called to make sure that was supposed to be the cover, as they thought a mistake might have been made."[56]In 2015, she said if she had to pick a favorite of her covers, it would be that one. "[I]t was a leap of faith and it was certainly a big change forVogue."[57]

"Wintour's approach hit a nerve—this was the way real women put clothes together (with the likely exception of wearing multi-thousand-dollar T-shirts)", one reviewer says. On the June 1989 cover, model Estelle Lefebure was shown in wet hair, with just a bathrobe and no apparent makeup.[39]Photographers, makeup artists, and hairstylists got credited along with the models.[37]In August 2014,Gigi Hadidpaid tribute to Wintour's first cover.[54]

She exerts a great deal of control over the magazine's visual content. Since her first days as editor, she has required that photographers not begin until she has approvedPolaroidsof the setup and clothing. Afterwards, they must submit all their work to the magazine, not just their personal choices.[58]

Her control over the text is less certain. Her staff claim she reads everything written for publication,[59][60]but former editor Richard Story has claimed she rarely, if ever, reads any ofVogue's arts coverage or book reviews.[61]Earlier in her career, she often left writing of the text that accompanied her layouts to others; former coworkers claim she has minimal skills in that area.[62]Today, she writes little for the magazine save the monthly editor's letter. She reportedly has three full-time assistants but sometimes surprises callers by answering the phone herself.[63]

1990s

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Under her editorship, the magazine renewed its focus on fashion and returned to the prominence it had held under Vreeland.Vogueheld its position as market leader against three contenders:Elle;Harper's Bazaar,which had lured awayLiz Tilberis,Wintour's most prominent deputy, andMirabella,a magazineRupert Murdochcreated for Wintour's fired predecessor. Her most serious competitor was within the company:Tina Brown,editor ofVanity Fairand laterThe New Yorker.[64]

At the end of the decade, another of Wintour's inner circle left to runHarper's Bazaar.Kate Betts,seen as Wintour's likely successor, had broadened the magazine's reach by commissioning stories with a more hard-news edge, about women in politics, street culture, and the financial difficulties of some major designers. She had also added the "Index" section, a few pages of tips meant to be torn out of the magazine. At staff meetings, she earned Wintour's respect as the only person who publicly challenged her.[65]

The two began to disagree about the magazine's direction. Betts feltVogue'sfashion coverage was getting too limited. Wintour in turn thought that the stories with popular culture angles Betts was assigning were beneath readers, and began pairing Betts withPlum Sykes,whom Betts reportedly detested as a "pretentious airhead". Eventually, she left, complaining toThe New York Timesthat Wintour had not even sent her a baby gift. Wintour wrote an editor's letter that complimented Betts and wished her well.[66]

2000s

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Betts was one of several longtime editors to leaveVoguearound the new millennium. A year later, Sykes, another putative successor, left to concentrate on her best-selling novels set in the city's upper classes and a screenplay. A number of other editors also left to assume the top jobs at other publications. While some of their replacements did not last, a new group of core editors formed.[59]

Wintour in Germany, 2006

The September 2004 issue was 832 pages, the largest issue of a monthly magazine ever published at that time, since exceeded by the September 2007 issue Cutler's documentary covered.[39]Wintour oversaw the introduction of three spinoffs:Teen Vogue,Vogue LivingandMen's Vogue.Teen Voguehas published more ad pages and earned more advertiser revenue than eitherElle GirlandCosmo Girl,and the 164 ad pages in the début issue ofMen's Voguewere the most for a first issue in Condé Nast history.[67]AdAgenamed her "Editor of the Year" for this brand expansion.[68]

Wintour was appointedOfficer of the Order of the British Empire(OBE) in the2008 Birthday Honours.[69][70]However, 2008 was generally difficult year forVogue,as a result of theGreat Recession.The April issue's cover image ofLeBron JamesandGisele Bündchenbrought criticism for its evocation ofracial stereotypes.[71]The next month, a lavishKarl Lagerfeldgown she wore to the Met's Costume Institute Gala was called "the worst fashionfaux pasof 2008 ". In the fall,Vogue Livingwas suspended indefinitely, andMen's Voguecut back to two issues a year as anoutsertor supplement to the women's magazine. At the end of the year, December's cover highlighted a disparaging commentJennifer Anistonmade aboutAngelina Jolie,to the former's displeasure; media observers began speculating that Wintour had lost her touch.[72]

"Save Anna" logo created in response to retirement rumours

In 2008, rumours arose that she would retire, and be replaced by FrenchVogueeditorCarine Roitfeld.[73]An editor at RussianGQreportedly introduced RussianVogueeditorAliona Doletskayaas the next editor of AmericanVogue.[74]Condé Nast responded by taking out a two-page ad inThe New York Timesdefending Wintour's record. In that same publication,Cathy Horynlater wrote that while Wintour had not lost her touch, the magazine had become "stale and predictable", as a reader had recently complained. "To readVoguein recent years is to wonder about the peculiar fascination for the 'villa inTuscany' story ", Horyn added. The magazine also dealt awkwardly with therecession,she commented.[73]

In 2009, Wintour began making more media appearances. On a60 Minutesprofile, she said she would not retire. "To me, this is a really interesting time to be in this position and I think it would be in a way irresponsible not to put my best foot forward and lead us into a different time."[75]A documentary film,The September Issue,byThe War RoomproducerR.J. Cutler,about the production of the September 2007 issue, was released in September. It focused on the sometimes-difficult relationship between Wintour and creative directorGrace Coddington.[76][77]Wintour appeared on theLate Show with David Lettermanto promote it,[78]defending the relevance of fashion in a tough economy.[79]TheAmerican Society of Magazine Editorselected her to its Hall of Fame in 2010.[80]

2010s

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Wintour in February 2012

In 2013,Condé Nastannounced she would be taking on the position of artistic director for the company's magazines while remaining atVogue.She assumed some of the responsibilities ofSi Newhouse,the company's longtime chairman, who, in his mid-80s at the time, was retreating from his role at Condé Nast to oversee managingAdvance Publications,its parent company. A company spokesman toldThe New York Timesthe position was created to keep Wintour. She described it as "an extension of what I am doing, but on a broader scale."[81]

In January 2014, theMetropolitan Museum of Artnamed its Costume Institute complex after Wintour;[82]First LadyMichelle Obamaopened it in May of that year.[83]Wintour starred inThe Fashion Fund,which aired onOvation TVthat year as well;[84]she was named the 39th most powerful woman in the world byForbes.[85]

On the occasion of the 10th anniversary ofThe Devil Wears Prada'srelease, in 2016,The Ringernoted how Wintour's personal image had evolved since that film's depiction of Miranda Priestley. "A decade ago this summer, Wintour became a living, breathing avatar for a certain kind of Boss —the terrible kind, with 'great' a halfhearted asterisk", wrote Alison Herman. "The Devil Wears Pradatransformed Wintour's image from that of a mere public figure into that of a cultural icon. "[86]

But since then, "Wintour isn't just redeemed. She's openly admired, Arctic chill and all." The grievances reflected in the novel and film "[seem] like an increasingly petty complaint when held up against a readership that remains well into the seven figures and the undisputed edge in ad sales that comes with it. Wintour is seemingly the only person on earth who knows how to run a steady print operation in 2016... At 10 years old, Miranda Priestley is iconic but ever-so-slightly out of date. Anna Wintour is still the Boss..."[86]

Wintour was appointedDame Commander of the Order of the British Empire(DBE) in the2017 New Year Honoursfor services to fashion and journalism and invested byQueen Elizabeth IIin May 2017 atBuckingham Palace.[87]According to a January 2017 report inThe Nation,an American news magazine, it was rumored that Wintour would have become theUnited States Ambassador to the United KingdomhadHillary Clintonbeen elected President of the United States the previous November.[88]

2020s

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In May 2020, former editor-at-largeAndré Leon Talleyreleased his second memoir,The Chiffon Trenches,which exposed Talley and Wintour's personal falling-out in 2018 after he was discontinued asVogue'sMet Galared carpet reporter.[89]

Following themurder of George Floyd,Wintour was reported to have issued an apology to staff forVogue's complicity in racism, stating the magazine had "not found enough ways to elevate and give space to Black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators".[90]

In 2020, Condé Nast promoted Wintour to the role of worldwide chief content officer, as part of a company restructuring. In addition, she will be working as global editorial director ofVogue.[91]

In 2023, Wintour suggested the creation of an event similar to theMet Galain London to raise funds for the local arts scene, which has struggled to recover in the aftermath of COVID.[92]

Wintour was appointedMember of the Order of the Companions of Honour(CH) in the2023 Birthday Honoursfor services to fashion.[93]

Influence in fashion industry

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Through the years, she has come to be regarded as one of the most powerful people in fashion, setting trends and anointing new designers. Industry publicists often hear "Do you want me to go to Anna with this?" when they have differences with her subordinates.[94]The Guardianhas called her the "unofficial mayoress" of New York City.[95]She has encouraged fashion houses such asChristian Diorto hire younger, fresher designers such asJohn Galliano.Her influence extends outside fashion. She persuadedDonald Trumpto letMarc Jacobsuse a ballroom at thePlaza Hotelfor a show when Jacobs and his partner were short of cash. In 2006, she persuadedBrooks Brothersto hire the relatively unknownThom Browne.[94]A protégée atVogue,Plum Sykes,[65]became a successful novelist, drawing her settings from New York's fashionable élite.[96]

Her salary was reported to be $2 million a year in 2005.[97]In addition, she receives several perks, such as a chauffeuredMercedes-Benz S-Class(both in New York and abroad), a $200,000 shopping allowance,[75]and the Coco Chanel Suite at theHotel Ritz Pariswhile attending European fashion shows.[44]Condé Nast presidentSamuel Irving Newhouse Jr.had the company make her an interest-free $1.6 million loan to purchase her townhouse inGreenwich Village.[98]

Charity work

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Wintour serves as a trustee of theMetropolitan Museum of Artin New York,[28]where she has organised benefits that have raised $50 million for the museum'sCostume Institute.[75]She began theCFDA/Vogue Fund in order to encourage, support and mentor unknown fashion designers. She has also raised over $10 million forAIDScharities since 1990, by organising various high-profile benefits.[28]

Personal life

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Wintour at a 2005 show

Relationships

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Wintour began dating well-connected older men during her teens. She was briefly involved with novelistPiers Paul Readwhen she was 15 and he was 24.[99]In her later teens, she dated gossip columnistNigel Dempsterand the two became a fixture on the London club circuit.[100]

Wintour married child psychiatristDavid Shafferin 1984, and they had a son named Charles (born 1985) and a daughter named Katherine (born 1987) before divorcing in 1999. Charles is a graduate of theUniversity of OxfordandColumbia College of Physicians and Surgeons.[101]Katherine wrote occasional columns forThe Daily Telegraphin 2006 and graduated fromColumbia Universityin 2009,[102][103]and is a New York-based producer withAmbassador Theatre Group.Katherine married Italian filmmakerFrancesco Carrozzini,son ofVogue Italiaeditor-in-chiefFranca Sozzani,in 2018.[104]

Newspapers andgossip columnistsclaimed that Wintour's affair with investorShelby Bryanended her marriage to Shaffer.[105]She declined to comment.[106][107]A former colleague quoted in theObserversaid that Bryan "mellowed her" and that she "smiles now and has been seen to laugh".[108]

Residence

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Wintour resides in New York City'sGreenwich Village.[109]

Habits

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Wintour says she wakes up at 5:30 a.m., plays tennis, gets her hair and makeup done, and then arrives at theVogueoffices at 7:30 a.m. She always turns up at fashion shows well before their scheduled start, stating, "I use the waiting time to make phone calls and notes; I get some of my best ideas at the shows."[102]According to theBBCdocumentary seriesBoss Woman,she rarely stays at parties for more than 20 minutes at a time and usually goes to bed by 10:15 p.m. at the latest.[110]She turns off her mobile phone so as not to be disturbed while eating her lunch,[111]which is most often a steak or a hamburger without the bun.[106]High-protein meals have been a habit of hers for a long time. A co-worker atHarpers & Queensaid that she would eat "smoked salmon and scrambled eggs" every single day and that "she would eat nothing else".[27]

Personal fashion

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Because of her position, Wintour's wardrobe is often closely scrutinised and imitated. Earlier in her career, she mixed fashionable t-shirts and vests withdesigner jeans.When she started atVogueas creative director, she switched toChanelsuits with miniskirts.[44]She continued to wear them during both pregnancies,[108]opening the skirts slightly in back and keeping her jacket on to cover up.[112]Wintour was listed as "one of the 50 best-dressed over 50s" byThe Guardianin March 2013. Aside from sporting Chanel suits with midiskirts, she has also been seen wearing kitten heels & printed midi-dresses.[113]

According to biographerJerry Oppenheimer,her ubiquitous sunglasses are actually corrective lenses, since she has deteriorating vision as her father did. A former colleague he interviewed recalls trying on herWayfarersin her absence and getting dizzy.[114]"I think at this point they've become, you know, really armour", Wintour herself told60 MinutescorrespondentMorley Safer,explaining that they allow her to keep her reactions to a show private.[115]As she rebounded from the end of her marriage and the turnover in the magazine's editorial staff, a fellow editor and friend noted that "she's not hiding behind her glasses anymore. Now she's having fun again."[42]

Politics

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Wintour has supported theDemocratic PartysinceHillary Clinton's 2000 Senate runandJohn Kerry's 2004 presidential campaign.She also served as a "bundler"of contributions duringBarack Obama's presidential campaigns in2008and2012.She co-hosted fundraisers for Obama's campaigns withSarah Jessica Parker,with one being a 50-person, $40,000-per-person dinner at Parker'sWest Villagetown house withMeryl Streep,Michael Kors,and advertising executive Trey Laird among the attendees. She also teamed withCalvin KleinandHarvey Weinsteinon fundraisers during Obama's first term, withDonna Karanamong the attendees.[116]

In 2013, whenVogue's former director of communications stepped down, Wintour was rumoured to be looking to hire someone with a political background. Soon after, she hiredHildy Kuryk,who worked as a fundraiser for theDemocratic National Committeeand Obama's 2008 campaign.[117][118]She supported Hillary Clinton's2016 presidential campaign,forming part of Clinton's long list of wealthy donors and served as Clinton's consultant on wardrobe choices for key moments of the campaign.[119]Wintour endorsedJoe Bidenfor the2020 United States presidential election.[120]

The Devil Wears Prada

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Main article:The Devil Wears Prada (novel)

Lauren Weisberger,a former Wintour assistant[121]who leftVogueforDeparturesalong with Richard Story, wroteThe Devil Wears Pradaafter a writing workshop he suggested she take.[122]It was eagerly anticipated for its supposed insider portrait of Wintour prior to its publication.[123]Wintour toldThe New York Times,"I always enjoy a great piece of fiction. I haven't decided whether I am going to read it or not."[124]While it has been suggested that the fashion magazine setting andMiranda Priestlycharacter were based onVogueand Wintour, Weisberger claims she drew not only from her own experiences but those of her friends as well.[125]Wintour herself makes a cameo appearance near the end of the book,[126]where it is said she and Miranda dislike each other.[127]

In the novel, Priestly has many similarities to Wintour—among them, she is British, has two children,[128]and is described as a major contributor to theMet.[129]Priestly is a tyrant who makes impossible demands of her subordinates, gives them almost none of the information or time necessary to comply and then berates them for their failures to do so.[130]

Kate Betts,who had been fired by Harper's after two years during which staffers said she tried too hard to emulate Wintour,[131]reviewed it harshly inThe New York Times Book Review:

Having worked at Vogue myself for eight years and having been mentored by Anna Wintour, I have to say Weisberger could have learned a few things in the year she sold her soul to the devil of fashion for $32,500. She had a ringside seat at one of the great editorial franchises in a business that exerts an enormous influence over women, but she seems to have understood almost nothing about the isolation and pressure of the job her Boss was doing, or what it might cost a person like Miranda Priestly to become a character like Miranda Priestly.[123]

Priestly has some positive qualities. Andrea Sachs, the novel's main character, notes that she makes all the magazine's key editorial decisions by herself[132]and that she has genuine class and style.[133]

Film adaptation

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Further information:The Devil Wears Prada (film)

During the production ofThe Devil Wears Pradain 2005, Wintour was reportedly threatening prominent fashion personalities, particularly designers, thatVoguewould not cover them if they made cameo appearances in the film as themselves.[134]She denied it through a spokesperson who said she was interested in anything that "supports fashion". Many designers are mentioned in the film. Only one,Valentino Garavani,appeared as himself.[134]

The film was released, in mid-2006, to great commercial success.[135]Wintour attended the première wearingPrada.In the film, actressMeryl Streepplays Priestly different enough from the book to receive critical praise as an entirely original (and more sympathetic) character.[136][137](Streep's office in the film was similar enough to Wintour's that Wintour reportedly had hers redecorated.[138])

Wintour reportedly said the film would probably go straight-to-DVD.[111]It made over $300 million in worldwide box-office receipts. Later in 2006, in an interview withBarbara Waltersthat aired the day of the DVD's release, Wintour said she found the film "really entertaining" and praised it for making fashion "entertaining and glamorous and interesting... I was 100 percent behind it."[139]

That opinion of the film has not yet led her to forgive Weisberger.[140]When it was reported that the novelist's editor told her to start her third novel over, Wintour's spokesman suggested she "should get a job as someone else's assistant."[141]

Oppenheimer suggestsThe Devil Wears Pradamay have done Wintour a favour by increasing her name recognition. "Besides giving Weisberger herfifteen minutes",he says," [it]... place[d] Anna squarely in the mainstream celebrity pantheon. [She] was now known and talked about over Big Macs and french fries under the Golden Arches by youngfashionistasin Wal-Mart denim inDavenportandDubuque."[140]

WhenThe September Issuewas released three years later, critics compared it with the earlier, fictional film. "For the past year or so, she's been on the media warpath to win back her image", said Paul Schrodt inSlant Magazine.[142]Many considered the question of how similar she was to Streep's Priestly, and praised the film for showing the real person.Manohla DargisatThe New York Timessaid that Priestly had helped humanise Wintour, and "the documentary continues this".[143]"The movie offers insights that lift it beyond a realist version ofThe Devil Wears Prada",agreed Mary Pols inTime.[144]

The film version of the Weisberger novel (screenplay penned by Aline Brosh McKenna) has not been the only film to have a character borrowing some aspects of Wintour.Edna Mode's similar hairstyle inThe Incredibles(2004) has been noted,[77][145]Johnny Deppsaid he partially based the demeanour ofWilly WonkainCharlie and the Chocolate Factory(2005) on Wintour.[146]Fey SommersinUgly Betty(2006–2010) was also likened to Wintour, from the trademark bob and sunglasses, to Wintour's last name homophonous with 'Winter', while Sommers' is homophonous with 'Summer'.[147]

Criticism

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In 2005, two years afterThe Devil Wears Prada,Oppenheimer'sFront Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor in Chiefwas published. It painted a similar portrait of the real woman. According to Oppenheimer, Wintour not only declined his requests for an interview but discouraged others from talking to him.[148]

Personality

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Wintour is often described as emotionally distant by those who have come to know her well, even her close friends. "At some stage in her career, Anna Wintour stopped being Anna Wintour and became 'Anna Wintour,' at which point, like wings of a stately home, she closed off large sections of her personality to the public", wroteThe Guardian.[145]"I think she enjoys not being completely approachable. Just her office is very intimidating. You have to walk about a mile into the office before you get to her desk and I'm sure it's intentional", Coddington says.[75]"I don't find her to be accessible to people she doesn't need to be accessible to", agreesVoguepublisher Tom Florio.[149]

Wintour at theVanity Fairparty for the 2010Tribeca Film Festival

She has said she admired her father Charles, known as "Chilly Charlie"[66][115]for being "inscrutable".[49]Former coworkers told Oppenheimer of a similar aloofness on her part. But she is also known for volatile outbursts of displeasure, and the widely used "Nuclear Wintour" sobriquet is a result of both. She dislikes it enough to have askedThe New York Timesnot to use it.[49]"There are times I get quite angry", she admitted inThe September Issue.[150]

"I think she has been very rude to a lot of people in the past, on her way up – very terse", a friend toldThe Observer."She doesn't do small talk. She is never going to be friends with her assistant."[108]Junior staff atVogueare said to understand, through unwritten rules, that they should not initiate interactions with her; it has been said that they are discouraged from riding an elevator with her, and if they do, should not speak to her, though Wintour has called this an exaggeration.[75][151]In a 1999 profile, journalist Kevin Gray observed that one staffer appeared "panic stricken" when she realised she would have to be in the elevator with Wintour. Gray also reports that another employee told him that she once saw Wintour trip in a hallway, walked past her without offering assistance, and was later told she "didabsolutelythe right thing. "[65]

Even friends admit to some trepidation in her presence. "Anna happens to be a friend of mine", saysBarbara Amiel,"a fact which is of absolutely no help in coping with the cold panic that grips me whenever we meet."[111]"I know when to stop pushing her", says Coddington. "She doesn't know when to stop pushing me."[152]

She has often been described as a perfectionist who routinely makes impossible, arbitrary demands of subordinates: "kitchen scissors at work", in the words of one commentator.[39]She once made a junior staffer look through a photographer's trash to find a picture he had refused to give her.[37]In a deleted scene fromThe September Issue,she complains about the "horrible white plastic buckets" of ice behind the bars at the CFDA's 7th on Sale AIDS benefit and moves them out of sight.[153]"The notion that Anna would want something done 'now' and not 'shortly' is accurate", Amiel says ofThe Devil Wears Prada."Anna wants what she wants right away."[154]A longtime assistant says, "She throws you in the water and you'll either sink or swim."[155]

Peter Braunstein,a formerWomen's Wear Dailymedia reporter convicted of sexually assaulting a coworker, allegedly planned to kill Wintour because of perceived slights. After receiving only one ticket to the 2002VogueFashion Awards, which he perceived as a snub, his anger cost him his job.[156]

On one occasion she had to pay for her treatment of employees. In 2004, a court ruled that she and Shaffer were to pay $104,403, and Wintour herself an additional $32,639, to settle a lawsuit brought against them by the New York StateWorkers' CompensationBoard. They had failed to pay the $140,000 judgement against them by a former employee of theirs (not the magazine) injured on the job, who did not have the necessary insurance coverage.[157]

In the 2000s, her relationship with Bryan was credited with softening her personality at work. "Even when she's in a bad mood, she has a different posture [...] is that she's so much more mellow and easier to work for", someone described as a "Wintour watcher" toldThe New York Observerin 2000.[59]

Pro-fur stance

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She has often been the target ofanimal rightsorganisations likePETA,who are angered by her use of fur inVogue,her pro-fur editorials and her refusal to run paid advertisements from animal rights organisations. Undeterred, she continues to use fur in photo spreads, saying there is always a way to wear it.[158]"Nobody was wearing fur until she put it on the cover in the early 1990s", saysVogueco-worker Tom Florio. "She ignited the entire industry."[159]

She has "lost count" of the times she has been physically attacked by activists.[160]In Paris in October 2005, she was hit with a tofu pie while waiting to get into theChloéshow.[161]On another occasion, an activist dumped a dead raccoon on her plate at a restaurant; she told the waiter to remove it.[106]She andVoguepublisherRon Galottionce retaliated for a protest outside the Condé Nast offices during the company's annual Christmas party by sending down a plate of roast beef.[162]

Others outside of the animal rights community have raised the fur issue. Fashion journalistPeter Braunsteinwrote in his manifesto that she would go to a hell guarded by large rats, where it would be so warm she would not need to wear fur.[163]Pamela Anderson,in an early 2008 interview, said Wintour was the living person she most despised "because she bullies young designers and models to use and wear fur."[164]

Elitism

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Another common criticism of Wintour's editorship focuses onVogue'sincreasing use of celebrities on the cover, and her insistence on making them meet her standards.[39][108][165][166]She reportedly toldOprah Winfreyto lose weight before her cover photograph. Likewise,Hillary Clintonwas told not to wear a blue suit.[39]At the 2005 Anglomania celebration, aVogue-sponsored salute to British fashion at the Met, Wintour is said to have personally chosen the clothes for prominent attendees such asJennifer Lopez,Kate Moss,Donald Trump,andDiane von Fürstenberg.[108]"I don't thinkVreelandhad that kind of concentration ", saysWomen's Wear Dailypublisher Patrick McCarthy. "She wouldn't have dressedBabe Paley.Nor would Babe Paley have let her. "By persuading designers to lend clothes to prominent socialites and celebrities, who are then photographed wearing the clothes not only inVoguebut more general-interest magazines likePeopleandUs,which in turn influence what buyers want, some in the industry believe Wintour is exerting too much control over it, especially since she is not involved in making or producing clothes herself. "The end result is that Anna can control it all the way to the selling floor", says Candy Pratts Price, executive fashion director atStyle.[63]She has been credited with killinggrunge fashionin the early 1990s, when it was not selling well, by telling designers if they continued to avoid glamour their looks would not be photographed forVogue.All complied.[42]

Wintour (photographed by Ed Kavishe of Fashion Wire Press) often insists on being seated apart from other fashion editors at shows.

AnotherVoguewriter has complained Wintour excluded ordinary working women, many of whom are regular subscribers, from the pages. "She's obsessed only about reflecting the aspirations of a certain class of reader", she says. "We once had a piece about breast cancer which started with anairline stewardess,but she wouldn't have a stewardess in the magazine so we had to go and look for a high-flying businesswoman who'd had cancer. "[39]

Wintour has been accused of setting herself apart even from peers. "I do not think fiction could surpass the reality", a British fashion magazine editor says ofThe Devil Wears Prada."[A]rt in this instance is only a poor imitation of life." Wintour, the editor says, routinely requests to be seated out of sight of competing editors at shows. "We spend our working lives telling people which it-bag to carry but Anna is so above the rest of us she does not even have a handbag."[108]

AtMilan Fashion Weekin 2008, she requested that some key shows be rescheduled for earlier in the week so she and other U.S.-based editors could have time to return home before the Paris shows. This led to complaints. Other editors said they had to rush through the earlier shows, and lesser-known designers who had to show later were denied an important audience.Dolce & Gabbanasaid Italian fashion was getting short shrift and Milan was becoming a "circus without sense".[167]

Giorgio Armani,who at the time was co-chairing a Met exhibition on superheroes' costumes with Wintour, drew some attention for his personal remarks. "Maybe what she thinks is a beautiful dress, I wouldn't think was a beautiful dress", he said. While he claimed he could not understand why people disliked her, saying he himself was indifferent, he expressed hope she had not made a comment once attributed to her that "the Armani era is over". He accused her of preferringFrenchand American fashion over Italian.[168]Geoffrey Beene,who stopped inviting Wintour to shows after she stopped writing about him, called her "a Boss lady in four-wheel drive who ignores or abandons those who do not fuel her tank. As an editor, she has turned class into mass, taste into waste."[42]

Her remarks aboutobesityhave caused controversy on more than one occasion. In 2005, Wintour was heavily criticised by the New York chapter of theNational Association to Advance Fat AcceptanceafterVogueeditor-at-largeAndré Leon Talleysaid onThe Oprah Winfrey Show,at one point, Wintour demanded he lose weight. "Most of theVoguegirls are so thin, tremendously thin ", he said," because Miss Anna don't like fat people. "[169]In 2009, residents ofMinneapolistook umbrage after she told60 Minutesshe could "only kindly describe most of the people I saw as little houses."[170]They noted their city had been named the third fittest in the nation that year byMen's Fitnesswhile New York had been named the fifth fattest.[171]

Wintour surprised observers when developing an association with the Kardashian family andKanye West,which culminated in having the Kardashian-Wests on aVogue cover;Wintour reportedly commented that having only "deeply tasteful" people in the magazine was "boring", and her decision to resort to such personalities has led some to accuse the magazine of being "desperate for buzz".[172]Wintour has nevertheless continued the association with the pair.[173]

Responses

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Others have defended Wintour. Amanda Fortini atSlatesaid she was comfortable with Wintour's elitism since that was intrinsic to fashion:

Most of us readVoguenot with the intention of buying the wildly expensive clothes, but because doing so educates our eye and hones our taste, similar to the way eating gourmet food refines the palate. This is a pleasure enabled by Wintour's ruthless aesthetic, her refusal to participate in the democratizing tendency of most of her competitors. To deny her that privilege is to deny her readers the privilege of fantasy in the form of beautifully photographed Paris couture.[39]

Emma Brockessees this in Wintour herself: "[Her] unwavering ability to look as if she lives within the pages of her magazine has a sort of honesty to it, proof that, whatever one thinks about it, the lifestyle peddled by Vogue is at least physically possible."[145]

"Print publications have to be as luxurious an experience as possible", Wintour explained in 2015. "You have to feel it coming off the page. You have to see photographs and pieces that you couldn't possibly see anywhere else."[57]

Some friends see her purported coldness as just traditional British reserve,[154]or shyness.[65]Brockes says it may be mutual, "partly a reflection of how awkward people are with her, particularly women, who get preemptively chippy when faced with the prospect of meeting Fashion Incarnate."[145]WhenMorley Saferasked her about complaints about her personality, she said,

I have so many people here, Morley, that have worked with me for 15, 20 years, and, you know, if I'm such a bitch, they must really be a glutton for punishment because they're still here. If one comes across sometimes as being cold or brusque, it's simply because I'm striving for the best.[75]

She has made similar statements in defence of her reported refusal to hire fat people. "It's important to me that the people that are working here, particularly in the fashion department", she says, "will present themselves in a way that makes sense to the outside world that they work atVogue."[65]

Her defenders have called criticismsexist."Powerful women in the media always get inspected more thoroughly than their male counterparts", saidThe New York Timesin a piece about Wintour shortly afterThe Devil Wears Prada'srelease.[174]When Wintour took over atVogue,gossip columnistLiz Smithreported rumours she had gotten the job through an affair withSi Newhouse.A reportedly furious Wintour made her anger the subject of one of her first staff meetings;[37]she still complained about the allegation when accepting a media award in 2002.[175]

She has been called a feminist whose changes toVoguehave reflected, acknowledged, and reinforced advances in the status of women. Reviewing Oppenheimer's book in theWashington Monthly,managing editor Christina Larson notes thatVogue,unlike many other women's magazines,

...doesn't play to its readership's sense of inadequacy... Instead, it reminds women to take satisfaction, parading all manner of fineries (clothes, furniture, travel destinations) that a successful woman might buy, or at least admire. While it surely exists to sell ads... it does so primarily by exploiting ambition, not insecurity.[37]

Wintour, unlike Vreeland, "...shiftedVogue's focus from the cult of beauty to the cult of the creation of beauty. "[37]To Wintour, the focus on celebrities is a welcome development as it means women are making the cover ofVogueat least in part for what they have accomplished, not just how they look.[37]

Complaints about her role as fashionéminence griseare dismissed by those familiar with how she actually exercises it. "She's honest. She tells you what she thinks. Yes is yes and no is no", according to designerKarl Lagerfeld."She's not too pushy", agreesFrançois-Henri Pinault,chief executive officer ofKering,Gucci's parent company. "She lets you know it's not a problem if you can't do something she wants." Defenders also point out she continued supporting Gucci despite her strong belief Kering should not have letTom Fordgo. Designers such asAlice RoiandIsabel Toledohave flourished without indulging Wintour orVogue.[63]Her willingness to throw her weight around has helped keepVogueindependent despite its heavy reliance on advertising dollars. Wintour was the only fashion editor who refused to follow anArmaniultimatum to feature more of its clothes in the magazine's editorial pages,[108]although she has also admitted if she has to choose between two dresses, one by an advertiser and the other not, she will choose the former every time. "Commercial is not a dirty word to me."[42]

Wintour herself, when asked about it, dismisses the notion that she has all the power attributed to her. "I don't think of myself as a powerful person", she toldForbesin 2011, when it named her 69th on its list of the world's hundred most powerful women. "You know, what does it mean? It means you get a better seat in a restaurant or tickets to a screening or whatever it may be. But it is a wonderful opportunity to be able to help others, and for that I'm extremely grateful."[176]

In response to criticisms like Beene's, she has defended the democratisation of what were once exclusive luxury brands. "It means more people are going to get better fashion", she toldDana Thomas."And the more people who can have fashion, the better."[177]

See also

edit

References

edit
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  125. ^"A Conversation With Lauren Weisberger".Random House. 2004.Archivedfrom the original on 24 September 2014.Retrieved14 August2009.Some of the stories aren't so far away from the tasks either I or my friends in various industries—whether fashion or magazines or PR or advertising—went through our first few years out of college. I imagine that assistants everywhere will recognize some of their own experiences in Andrea's life.
  126. ^Weisberger, 322. "Immediately I recognized Anna Wintour, looking absolutely ravishing in a cream-colored slip dress and beadedManolosandals. She was talking animatedly to a man I presumed to be her boyfriend, although her giant Chanel sunglasses prevented me from being able to tell if she was amused, indifferent or sobbing. The press loved to compare the antics and attitudes of Anna and Miranda, but I found it impossible to believe that anyone could be quite as unbearable as my Boss. "
  127. ^Weisberger, 348. "'Maybe I should try to work for one of her enemies? They'd be happy to hire me, right' Sure. Send your resume over to Anna Wintour—they've never liked each other very much."
  128. ^Weisberger, 38–39. "I had Googled her and was surprised to find Miranda Priestly was born Miriam Princhek inLondon's East End... Her rough, Cockney-girl accent was soon replaced by a carefully cultivated, educated one... She moved her two daughters and her then rock-star husband... "
  129. ^Weisberger, 267.
  130. ^Weisberger, 145. "Ah yes. Mrs. Whitmore. I am a lucky girlindeed.I'm so lucky, you have no idea. I can't tell you how lucky I felt when I was sent out to get tampons for my Boss, only to be told that I'd bought the wrong ones and asked why I do nothing right. And luck is probably the only way to explain why I get to sort another person's sweat- and food-stained clothing each morning before eight and arrange to have it cleaned. Oh wait! I think what actually makes me luckiest of all is getting to talk to breeders all over the tristate area for three straight weeks in search of the perfect French bulldog puppy so two incredibly spoiled and unfriendly little girls can each have their own pet. Yes, that's it!"
  131. ^Jacobs, Alexandra (10 June 2001)."Good Witch Glenda Comes to Bazaar as Classy, Chilly Kate Gets Gate".The New York Observer.Archivedfrom the original on 1 November 2020.Retrieved9 October2020.[She] adopted every Anna Wintourism under the sun, down to mannerisms, posture, [a] way of carrying herself in the office, a certain way of crossing her legs, leaning on her elbow at a certain way at her desk. It was eerie, at times, how similar she acted to Anna—always sequestered in her corner office, with her two assistants perched there like little lion guard dogs.
  132. ^Weisberger, 208. "Miranda was as far as I could tell, a truly fantastic editor. Not a single word of copy made it into the magazine without her explicit, hard-to-obtain approval... Although the various fashion editors called in the clothes they wanted to shoot, Miranda alone selected the looks she wanted and which models she wanted wearing each one... [T]hat made her, in my mind, the main reason for the magazine's stunning success each month.Runwaywouldn't beRunway— hell, it wouldn't be much of anything at all – without Miranda Priestly. I knew it and so did everyone else. "
  133. ^Weisberger, 271–72. "I never grew tired of watching Miranda. She was the true lady and the envy of every woman in the museum that night."
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Works cited

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