Appliqué

Appliquéis ornamentalneedleworkin which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand stitching or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised withtextiles,but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration.

A Future Buddha Maitreya Flanked by the Eighth Dalai Lama and His Tutor,18th century Tibetan appliquéd silk

The term originates from theLatinapplicō"I apply" and subsequently from theFrenchappliquer"attach".

Kaudi: pride of Karnataka

History

Appliqué cross. The edges are covered and stitches are hidden. It is overlaid with decorative gold thread.

The term appliqué is derived from French and Latinverbsappliquerandapplicare,respectively, which both mean to join or attach. Like embroidery, it has a humble beginning. The technique was used as a way to strengthen worn areas of items or to patch holes that had formed. Early appliqué was used to lengthen the life of clothing and moved into artful techniques that can be seen inblanketsandquiltsfrom numerous cultures from all over the world.

Archaeologists have discovered ancient examples of appliquéd leather in Egypt (980 BCE), and leather and felt appliqés have been found on carpets, wall hangings and saddle covers in 4th century BCE tombs inSiberiaandMongolia. Appliquéd cloth is an important art form inBenin,West Africa, particularly in the area aroundAbomey,where it has been a tradition since the 18th century and the kingdom ofDanhomè. There are folk traditions to embellish garments with leather appliqué in Scandinavia, Russia and Eastern Europe, and leather appliqué is also found inGujarat,India, Pakistan and Morocco where men's clothing and leather slippers are decorated with embroidery and leather appliqué. Felt appliqué is used to add embellishments to women'sapronsin Eastern Europe and decorative uses of felt appliqué are also seen among the nomadic tribes of Central Asia to decorateyurts,floor covering and bags. Reverse applique is used on theMolatextiles of South America.

Types

Quilt block in reverse appliqué

In the context of sewing, an appliqué refers to aneedleworktechnique in which patterns or representational scenes are created by the attachment of smaller pieces offabricto a larger piece of contrasting colour or texture.Good textiles for appliqué are durable and don't easily fray, likefeltandleather.

Applied pieces usually have their edges folded under, and are then attached by any of the following:

• Straight stitch,typically 20–30mm in from the edge.
• Satin stitch,all around, overlapping the edge. The patch may begluedorstraight stitchedon first to ensure positional stability and a neat edge.
• Reverse appliqué: the attached materials are sewn together, then cut away where another material covers it on top, before being sewn down onto the edges of the original material.

Quilting

An American quilt, 1848

AmericanquiltinBroderie perse,1846.

Appliqué is used extensively inquilting."Dresden Plate" and "Sunbonnet Sue" are two examples of traditionalAmericanquiltblocksthat are constructed with bothpatchworkand appliqué.Baltimore album quilts,Broderie perse,Hawaiian quilts,Amishquilts, EgyptianKhayamiyaand theralli quiltsofIndiaandPakistanalso use appliqué.

Banner making

It is particularly suitable for work which is to be seen from a distance, such as inbanner-making.A famous example of appliqué is theHastings Embroidery.

Seams on couture garments

A lace-on-lace applique seam can be used to join edges of lace. Motifs in the design of the lace are overlapped and fastened down with awhipstitch.

Electronic sewing machines

Modern consumerembroiderymachines quickly stitch appliqué designs by following a program. The programs have a machine stops during stitching to allow the user to switch threads. First, the fabric that will be the background and the appliqué fabric are affixed into the machine's embroidery hoop. The program is run and the machine makes a loosebasting stitchover both layers of fabric. Next, the machine halts for a thread change, or other pre-programmed break. The user then cuts away the excess appliqué fabric from around the basting stitch. Following this, the machine continues on programme, automatically sewing the satin stitches and any decorative stitching over the appliqué for best results.

See also

• Collage,a technique of art production, primarily used in the visual arts, where the artwork is made from an assemblage of different forms, thus creating a new whole.
• Khatwa,the name given to appliqué works inBihar,India.
• Godadiare the applique style embroidered blankets made by patching various pieces of cloth, in the Kutch district ofGujarat,India
• Appliqué armour,in military use, consists of extra protective plates mounted onto the hull or turret of anarmoured fighting vehicle.

External links

• Media related toAppliqueat Wikimedia Commons