Bhanu Athaiya(néeRajopadhye;28 April 1929 – 15 October 2020) was an Indian costume designer and painter.[1]She was the first Indian to win anAcademy Award.[2][3]Alongside being Bollywood's most iconic costume designer, she had a historically important early career as an artist with contemporaries likeM. F. Husain,F. N. SouzaandVasudeo S. Gaitonde.[4]She was the only woman member of theBombay Progressive Artists' Group.[5]Two of Bhanu Rajopadhye's artworks were included in the 1953 Progressive Artists' Group show in Bombay.[6]
Bhanu Athaiya | |
---|---|
Born | Bhanumati Annasaheb Rajopadhye 28 April 1929 |
Died | 15 October 2020 Mumbai,Maharashtra,India | (aged 91)
Education | Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art |
Occupation(s) | Costume designerandPainter |
Years active | 1947–2015 |
Movement | Bombay Progressive Artists' Group |
Spouse | Satyendra Athaiya |
Awards |
|
After her switch from art to cinema, Bhanu went on to become one of the leading creators of the aesthetic of a young India through her work on costumes for Bollywood films. She worked on over 100 films, with Indian filmmakers such asGuru Dutt,Yash Chopra,B.R. Chopra,Raj Kapoor,Vijay Anand,Raj Khosla,andAshutosh Gowariker,notably in films likeC.I.D.(1956),Pyaasa(1957),Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam(1962),Guide(1965),Amrapali(1966),Teesri Manzil(1966),Satyam Shivam Sundaram(1979),Razia Sultan(1983),Chandni(1989),Lekin...(1990),1942: A Love Story(1993),Lagaan(2001),[7]andSwades(2004). She also worked on international projects with directors suchConrad RooksinSiddhartha(1972) andRichard AttenboroughinGandhi(1982).
ForGandhi,Bhanu won theAcademy AwardforBest Costume Design[8]and was nominated for aBAFTA AwardforBest Costume Design.[9]
She was honored in the 'In memmoriam' segment of the93rd Academy Awards.[10]
Early life and background
editBhanu was born in aMarathibrahminfamily[11]KolhapurinMaharashtraof British India. She was the third of seven children born to Annasaheb and Shantabai Rajopadhye. Athaiya's father, Annasaheb was a self-taught artist and photographer who worked in the films ofBaburao Painter.He died when Athaiya was 11 years old.[12][13]
She studied atSir J J School of Art,Mumbai, where she won the Usha Deshmukh Gold medal in 1951 for the artwork titled 'Lady In Repose'.[14][15][16]
Career
editBhanu started her career as an artist in Mumbai while still studying at JJ School of Art. Later she became a member of theProgressive Artists' Groupand exhibited with them.[6][17]She continued her part-time stint as a freelance fashion illustrator for women's magazine like "Eve's Weekly" and "Fashion & Beauty". while at the JJ School of Art.[18]Later when the Eve's Weekly editor opened a boutique, she asked Athaiya to try designing dresses, hereupon she discovered her flair for designing clothes. Her success as a designer soon led to her switching career paths. Her costume designing career began by designing clothes forGuru Dutt's films, starting withC.I.D.(1956). She soon became a part of theGuru Dutt team.[19]
She made her debut as a film costume designer with the filmC.I.D.in 1956,[20]and followed it up with otherGuru Duttfilms such asPyaasa(1957),Chaudhvin Ka Chand(1960) andSahib Bibi Aur Ghulam(1962). In her career spanning 50 years she has received numerous awards. She won theAcademy Award for Best Costume Design(shared withJohn Mollo) for her work in the 1982 film,Gandhiand became the first Indian to win anAcademy Award.[20][21]She also won twoNational Film Awards,in1991[22]and2002.[23]
In a career spanning over 100 films, she worked with Indian filmmakers such asGuru Dutt,Yash Chopra,B.R. Chopra,Raj Kapoor,Vijay Anand,Raj Khosla,andAshutosh Gowariker,and international directors suchConrad RooksandRichard Attenborough.[24][25][26]
In March 2010, Athaiya released her bookThe Art of Costume Design,published byHarperCollins.[27]On 13 January 2013, Athaiya presented a copy of the book to theDalai Lama.[28][29]
On 23 February 2012, it was reported that Athaiya wished to return her Academy Award to theAcademy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciencesbecause she felt that her family will not be able to take care of the trophy after her demise.[30]On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy.[31]
In April 2021, as part of theNew York Times"Overlooked" series of obituaries that were not written at the time of the person's death (in this case, October 2020), Anita Gates wrote an obituary of Athaiya. In it, Athaiya is quoted about her work onGandhi:"Richard Attenboroughwas making a complex film and needed someone who knew India inside out, "Athaiya toldEastern Eye,a British weekly newspaper, in an interview published last year. "So much had to be contributed, and I was ready for it."[32]
Personal life
editBhanu married a lyricist and poet, Satyendra Athaiya, in the 1950s. Subsequently in 1959, she changed her name from Bhanumati to Bhanu Athaiya. Satyendra died in 2004.[32]
In 2012, Bhanu was diagnosed with a brain tumour, which eventually lead to her suffering paralysis on one side of the body and was bed-ridden for the last three years of her life. She died on October 15, 2020, in Mumbai at the age of 91, at a medical centre inSouth Mumbai.She was survived by her daughter Radhika Gupta.[33][14]
Awards and nominations
editYear | Award | Film/Artwork | Result | Ref. |
---|---|---|---|---|
1951 | Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal - JJ School of Art | Lady In Repose | Won | [34] |
1983 (55th) |
Academy Award for Best Costume Design | Gandhi | Won | [35][36] |
1983 (36th) |
BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design | Gandhi | Nominated | [9][37] |
1991 (38th) |
National Film Award for Best Costume Design | Lekin... | Won | [22] |
2002 (49th) |
National Film Award for Best Costume Design | Lagaan | Won | [23] |
2009 (54th) |
Filmfare Lifetime Achievement Award | Won | [38] | |
2013 (4th) |
Laadli Lifetime Achievement Award | Won | [39] |
Filmography
editSource(s):[40]
See also
editReferences
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- ^Gates, Anita (22 April 2021)."Overlooked No More: Bhanu Athaiya, Who Won India Its First Oscar".The New York Times.ISSN0362-4331.Retrieved14 January2023.
- ^Ramachandran, Naman (15 October 2020)."Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91".Variety.Retrieved14 January2023.
- ^Ranjit Hoskote, Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya:The Legacy of a Long-hidden Sun, Academia, December 2020
- ^Before Bhanu Athaiya, the Oscar-winning designer, there was Bhanu Athaiya, the modernist painter. Scroll. Jul 31, 2018
- ^ab1953 Progressive Artists' Group Exhibition Catalogue
- ^Thomas, Kevin (10 May 2002)."Cricket in the Face of Colonialism".Los Angeles Times.Retrieved14 January2023.
- ^Harmetz, Aljean (12 April 1983)."'GANDHI' IS WINNER OF EIGHT ACADEMY AWARDS ".The New York Times.ISSN0362-4331.Retrieved14 January2023.
- ^ab"BAFTA Awards".awards.bafta.org.Archived fromthe originalon 14 January 2023.Retrieved14 January2023.
- ^Gittins, William (24 April 2021)."In Memoriam Oscars 2021: directors, actors and writers who died in 2020".Diario AS.Archivedfrom the original on 25 April 2021.Retrieved27 April2021.
- ^"Kolhapur residents mourn daughter who put town on world map By Nikhil Deshmukh".The Week.Retrieved10 January2022.
- ^Lala, Smita (7 May 2008)."My Fundays: Bhanu Athaiya".The Telegraph.Archived fromthe originalon 25 May 2011.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^"Bhanu Athaiya: Costume designer who won India's first Oscar dies".BBC News.15 October 2020.
- ^ab"Prinseps's 'Bhanu Athaiya Estate Sale' sets out to give the late designer her due as an artist".Architectural Digest.1 December 2020.
- ^"Bhanu Athaiya's Lady In Repose".Prinseps.December 2020.
- ^"Discussion With Bhanu Athaiya's Daughter".YouTube.June 2022.
- ^Bhanu Athaiya Estate Sale Catalogue December 2020
- ^Bhanu's Eve's Weekly Spread Pages, Bhanu Athaiya Estate Auction December 2020
- ^Guru Dutt: A Life in Cinema,by Nasreen Munni Kabir. Published by Oxford University Press, 1996.ISBN0-19-563849-2.pp 117-118.
- ^abChatterjee, Madhusree (20 February 2009)."Bhanu Athaiya - India's first Oscar winner walks down memory lane".Hindustan Times.Archived fromthe originalon 27 December 2013.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^"From dandy to Dandi, it was a long journey".Hindustan Times.25 March 2001.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^ab"38th National Film Awards".Directorate of Film Festivals.Archived fromthe originalon 5 November 2013.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^ab"49th National Film Awards".Directorate of Film Festivals.Archived fromthe originalon 24 December 2013.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^Holland, Oscar; Suri, Manveena; Esha, Mitra (16 October 2020)."Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies age 91".CNN.Archivedfrom the original on 17 October 2020.Retrieved17 October2020.
- ^Ramachandran, Naman (15 October 2020)."Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91".Variety.Archivedfrom the original on 17 October 2020.Retrieved17 October2020.
- ^"Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies at 91".dnaindia.Archivedfrom the original on 17 October 2020.Retrieved17 October2020.
- ^"The Art of Costume Design, by Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya".HarperCollins Publishers India. Archived fromthe originalon 4 March 2012.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^"No one will fight China to make a stand for Tibet".Phayul.Archived fromthe originalon 2 May 2013.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^"Athaiya meets Dalai Lama".The Times of India.Archived fromthe originalon 16 June 2013.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^Singh, Lada (23 February 2012)."First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award".Hindustan Times.Archivedfrom the original on 17 October 2020.Retrieved3 May2013.
- ^Ghosh, Avijit (15 December 2012)."Bhanu Athaiya returns Oscar fearing theft".The Times of India.Archived fromthe originalon 16 June 2013.Retrieved3 May2013.
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- ^"Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passes away".The Indian Express.15 October 2020.Retrieved15 October2020.
- ^"Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal".,1951. JJ School of Art,[1].
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- ^"The 55th Academy Awards (1983) Nominees and Winners".Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.Archivedfrom the original on 5 September 2012.Retrieved2 May2013.
- ^"Film in 1983 - BAFTA Awards".British Academy of Film and Television Arts.Archivedfrom the original on 5 September 2017.Retrieved2 May2013.
- ^"Filmfare: 'Jodha...' bags 5, Priyanka, Hrithik shine".The Times of India.The Times Group.1 March 2009.Archivedfrom the original on 23 October 2012.Retrieved11 July2013.
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- ^"Bhanu Athaiya movies and filmography - Cinestaan".Cinestaan.Archivedfrom the original on 17 October 2020.Retrieved15 October2020.