Bodice

Abodice(/ˈbɒdɪs/) is an article ofclothingtraditionally for women and girls, covering thetorsofrom the neck to thewaist.The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a moderndressto distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves. The namebodiceis etymologically an odd plural spelling of "body"and comes from an older garment called apair of bodies(because the garment was originally made in two separate pieces that fastened together, frequently by lacing).

Line art drawing of a bodice

Origin

See also:History of cleavage

Frescoes produced by theMinoan civilizationportray women wearing open bodices that displayed and accentuated their breasts; however, following theLate Bronze Age collapse,these garments would give way to the simpler clothes characteristic of Iron Age Greece.

Contemporary European bodices are derived from thekirtle.A fitted bodice becamefashionable in Europe around 1450.

Classification

Countrywoman's bodice, 19th century (detail ofThe Hay-Harvestby Belgian painterJulien Joseph)

The same word is used to refer to several related concepts, some of which also have other names.

Sketch of a separate, corset-like bodice

In one usage,bodicerefers to a separate upper garment that has removablesleevesor no sleeves, often low-cut, worn inEuropefrom the 16th century to the 18th century, either over acorsetor in lieu of one. To achieve a fashionable shape and support the bust, the bodice was frequently stiffened withbents(a type ofreed) orwhalebone.The bodice was separate from the corset of the time because the bodice was intended to be worn over the other garments, and the others wereundergarments.

In another usage, particularly inVictorianandearly 20th century fashion,abodice(in earlier sources,body) instead indicates the upper part of a dress that was constructed in two parts (i.e., with separate skirt and bodice, such as aballet tutu), but of matching or coordinating fabric with the intention of wearing the two parts as a unit. Indressmaking,the termwaist(sometimes calleddress waistto distinguish it from ashirtwaist) was also used. During wear, the parts might be connected byhooks and eyes.This construction was standard for fashionable garments from the 18th century until the late 19th century, and had the advantages of allowing a voluminous skirt to be paired with a close-fitting bodice, and of allowing two or more bodices to be worn with the same skirt at different times. For example, a woman might wear the skirt with a matching high-necked bodice during the day, and later the same skirt with a different, fashionably low-necked bodice in the evening. One-piece construction became more common after 1900 due to the trend for looser, more simply-constructed clothing with narrower skirts.

Bodicecontinues in use to refer to the upper portion (not including the sleeves) of a one- or two-piecedress.The bodice of a dress was called thecorsagein the 19th century.

Styles

In earlier periods, bodices and corsets were laced in spiral fashion, with one continuous lace. Some bodices were laced in the back.In later periods, both were laced like the modern tennis shoe, with eyelets facing one another. This was more convenient for women who had to dress themselves. In the 20th century, lacing was replaced by elastic or other styles.

Padding, boning, and other techniques were used to keep the fitted bodice smooth while it was worn.Pregnant women wore an adjustable type of bodice, called ajump.

Starting in the 16th century, women used detachable sleeves as a fashion accessory.Aruffor other decorations might be added.By the 18th century, women were wearing a variety of accessories, includingfichusandpartlets,with their bodices.

A woman wearing adirndl

In the 19th century, in parts of Europe, styles reflected local folk dress, so that the bodice in France was frilled, in Austria took the form of the dirndl, and in Bulgaria, it had a goldstomacher.Other styles seen in the 19th century include:

• thecasaquinbodice,
• the coat-bodice inspired by men'sfrock coats,
• the longcuirassebodice, which was also called theJoan of Arcbodice,
• the pointed Marie Stuart bodice,
• the modest Circassian bodice,
• the amazon corsage,
• the bag bodice, which was popular in Canada,
• theAgnes Sorelbodice, which had a high, square-cutnecklineand was worn withbishop sleeves,
• the casaque bodice,
• the antique bodice, which, despite its name, was the new fashion in its time,
• the pleated Grecian-style Norma corsage,
• the Anglo–Greek bodice with widelapels,
• the bébé bodice with its sash,
• the Empire bodice with its scarves,
• the beribboned bohemian-style baby bodice,
• the Elizabethan bodice, which reflected the styles popular in theElizabethan era,but which was worn during the lateVictorian era.

Today

Bodices survive into modern times in the traditional or revivedfolk dressof many European countries, as in the case of the German/AustriandirndlandScottish highland dancers'Aboyne dress.They are also commonly seen today at gatherings celebrating archaic European customs, such asOktoberfest,Society for Creative Anachronismevents, andRenaissance Fairs.Some Asian cultures also feature bodices, including the Indiancholi,Chinesedudou,Vietnameseyếmand Indonesiankemben.

See also

• Angia
• Bodice ripper

Further reading

• Arnold, Janet:Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620,Macmillan, 1985.ISBN0-89676-083-9.
• Steele, Valerie (2001).The Corset: A Cultural History.Yale University Press.

External links

• The dictionary definition ofbodiceat Wiktionary
• Media related toBodicesat Wikimedia Commons