Dessert wines,sometimes calledpudding winesin the United Kingdom, aresweet winestypically served withdessert.

Vin de Paille, astraw winefrom France

There is no simple definition of a dessert wine. In the UK, a dessert wine is considered to be any sweet wine drunk with a meal, as opposed to the white[1]fortified wines(finoandamontilladosherry) drunk before the meal and the red fortified wines (portandmadeira) drunk after it. Thus, most fortified wines are regarded as distinct from dessert wines, but some of the less-strong fortified white wines, such asPedro Ximénezsherry andMuscat de Beaumes-de-Venise,are regarded as honorary dessert wines. In the United States, by contrast, a dessert wine is legally defined as any wine over 14%alcohol by volume,which includes all fortified wines—and is taxed more highly as a result. This dates back to when the US wine industry only made dessert wines by fortification, but such a classification is outdated now that modernyeastandviticulturecan produce dry wines over 15% without fortification (and German dessert wines can contain half that amount of alcohol).

Methods of production

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Château d'Yquem 1999. A dessert wine fromSauternesmade by so-called "noble rot"

Makers of dessert wines want to produce a wine containing high levels of bothsugarand alcohol. Since all winemaking creates alcohol from fermentation of sugars they are typically traded off. However, there are many ways to increase relativesugar levelsin the final wine:

  • grow grapes so that theynaturallyhave sugar to spare for both sweetness and alcohol.
  • add sugar,either:
  • add alcohol(typically brandy) before all the sugar is fermented (fortificationor 'mutage').
  • remove waterto concentrate the sugar:
    • In warm climates, by air drying the grapes to makeraisin wine
    • In frosty climates, by freezing out some of the water to makeice wine
    • In damp temperate climates, by using a fungal infection,Botrytis cinerea,to desiccate the grapes withnoble rot

Natural sweetness

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A late harvest Semillon from Washington State.

In the absence of other techniques, makers of dessert wine have to produce their sugar in the vineyard. Some grape varieties, such asMuscat,Ortega andHuxelrebe,naturally produce much more sugar than others. Environmental conditions have a big effect on ultimate sugar levels; thevigneroncan help by leaving the grapes on the vine until they arefully ripe,and by green harvesting and pruning to expose the young grapes to the sun. Green harvesting reduces the number of bunches on a vine early in the summer, so that the sugar production of the leaves is divided between fewer bunches. While the vigneron cannot control the sun, a sunny year regulates sugar levels. The semi-sweet Auslese wines in theGerman wine classificationare probably the best example of this approach; most modern winemakers perceive that their customers want either fully dry or 'properly' sweet dessert wines, so 'leave it to nature' is currently out of fashion. But most of the Muscats of ancient times were probably made this way, including the famousConstantiaof South Africa.

Chaptalization

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Honey was added to wine in Roman times, for sweetness and to increase the final strength of the wine. Today sugar is usually added in order to boost the alcohol levels of flabby, unripe wines rather than for sweetness, although a degree of chaptalization is permitted in the wines of many countries. German wines must declare whether they are 'natural' or not; in any case, chaptalization is banned from the top tiers of German wines.

Süssreserve

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The 'reserve of sweetness' is a German technique in which unfermented must (grape juice) is added to the wine after fermentation. This increases the sweetness of the final wine and dilutes the alcohol somewhat—in Germany the final wine can contain no more than 15% Süssreserve by volume.[2]Süssreserve allows winemakers to fully ferment the wine without having to worry about stopping fermentation before all the sugar has gone. Since sulphites are used to stop fermentation, this technique reduces the usage of sulphites. Süssreserve is used by other makers of German-style wines, particularly inNew Zealand.

Fortification

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Port wine,a fortified wine

The main fortified wines drunk with dessert are sweetMontilla-Moriles & sherry,particularlyPedro Ximénez,and vins doux naturels. ThePedro Ximenezdessert wine is unique because it is a raisin wine that is then fortified and aged in asolerasystem like other sweet wine from Andalucia. Other sweet sherries (is a blend wine) such asBristol Creammay also be drunk as dessert wine.

The production of vins doux naturels was perfected by Arnaud de Villeneuve at theUniversity of Montpellierin the 13th century. They are now quite common in theLanguedoc-Roussillonof southwest France. As the names suggest,Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise,Muscat de Rivesaltes,Muscat de Frontignan,Muscat de Lunel,Muscat de MirevalandMuscat de St-Jean Minervoisare all made from the whiteMuscatgrape, whilstBanyulsandMauryare made from redGrenache.Regardless of the grape, fermentation is stopped with up to 10% of 95% grape spirit. The Muscats are made in a somewhat oxidised style, the Grenaches less so.

Raisin wine

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Glass of Calusopassito,a raisin wine from Piedmont

In ancient Carthage, a sweet wine calledpassumwas made from air-dried grapes and across the Malta Channel from the site of Carthage similar wines are still made, called Moscato Passito di Pantelleria. Such wines were described by the Romans. Northern Italy is home to a number of 'passito' wines, where the grapes are dried on straw, on racks, or hung from the rafters. These wines includeVin Santo(into which almond biscuits, 'cantucci', are traditionally dunked), Sciachetrà, Recioto di Soave (drunk with the local version ofpanettone) and the sweet red Recioto della Valpolicella (which stands up to chocolate better than most wine). Across the Alps, the French make 'straw wine' (vin de paille) in the Jura, Rhone andAlsace;the Spanish start off making a raisin wine withPedro Ximénezbefore fortifying it; the Cypriots have their ancientCommandaria;and there have been recent experiments with the style inSouth Africaand theUS.

Ice wine

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Grapes for ice wine

Most wine laws require temperatures below at most −7 °C (19 °F) before the grapes for ice wine can be picked.[3][4][5]At such temperatures, some water in the grapes freezes but the sugars and other solids remain dissolved in the remaining juice. If the grapes arepressedwhile frozen, a very concentrated must can result, which needs special yeast and a long time to ferment. The resulting wines are very sweet, but balanced by their acidity. The minuscule yields mean they tend to be very expensive. The most famous areGermanEisweinandCanadianIcewine, but ice wines are also made in the United States,Austria,Croatia,Czech Republic,Slovakia,Slovenia,Hungary,Italy,Australia,FranceandNew Zealandin smaller quantities.

Noble rot wine

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Rieslinggrapes withnoble rot

The primary distinction betweenbotrytized winesand other non-fortified sweet wines, such as late-harvest wines, ice wines (eiswein), or straw wines, lies in the extensive range and richness of aroma compounds generated byBotrytiscinerea fungal infection of the grapes. Significant differences are also evident in other components, like glycerol and acid composition, due to microbial activity.Descriptorsfrequently used for these wines highlight flavours of peach, apricot, pear, quince, raisin, and honey, along with unique "botrytis" or roti characteristics. Additionally, a notable feature of botrytized wines is their high acid content, which prevents them from tastingcloying,even with sugar levels often exceeding 200 g/l[6]

Some of the most famous dessert wines, such asTokajiAszú ofTokaj-HegyaljainHungary,Château d'YquemofSauternes,andSeewinkelof Austria, are made using grapes mouldy withBotrytis cinerea,which sucks water out of the grape whilst imparting flavours of honey and apricot to the future wine.[7]

The fungus requires specific conditions to producenoble rot;if it is too damp, the same fungus causes destructivegrey rot.Vigneronsendeavour to maximise the amount of noble rot without losing the whole crop to grey rot. Typically, noble rot forms best in conditions with regular morningmist,normally from a nearby lake or the sea. The wait for noble rot to form means these wines are usuallyharvested late.

The first noble rot wines were likely created by accident—both the Hungarians and the Germans have similar stories of how the harvest was delayed for some reason, but the mouldy grapes were vinified anyway and then found to be delicious.[8]Given that propensity to noble rot was a factor in Hungarian vineyard demarcations some 50 years before a messenger was supposedly mugged on his way toSchloss Johannisbergin Germany and aszú inventory predates it by about 200 years, Hungary's Tokaj is where it was first produced.[9]Germany may have later discovered the same process independently.

Noble rot is responsible for many other dessert wines, includingBeerenausleseandTrockenbeerenauslese(TBA) of theGerman wine classification,FrenchMonbazillac,Austrian Beerenauslese,Ausbruchand other TBA-type wines from all over the world.

Serving

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Vin Santo with almond biscuits

A general rule is that the wine should be sweeter than the food it is served with—a perfectly ripe peach has been described as the ideal partner for many dessert wines, whereas it makes sense not to drink wine at all with many chocolate- and toffee-based dishes. Red dessert wines like Recioto della Valpolicella and fortified wines like the vin doux naturel Muscats are the best matches for such difficult-to-pair desserts.[10]

Alternatively, the wine itself can be a dessert, but bakery sweets can make a good match, particularly with a little bitterness like biscuits that are dunked in Vin Santo.[11]A development of this matching of contrasts is a rich savoury dish like the foie gras that is a traditional partner toSauternes.[12]

White dessert wines are generally served somewhat chilled, but can be easily served too cold. Red dessert wines are served at room temperature or slightly chilled.

References

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  1. ^"The 7 major types of white wines".Retrieved27 April2019.
  2. ^SüssreserveArchived2007-03-10 at theWayback Machineon Wine Dictionary.
  3. ^Amerine, Maynard."Wine".Encyclopedia Britannica.Retrieved27 April2019.
  4. ^Shoemaker, Ted (6 December 2013)."German Ice Wine Rules Tightened".Wine Spectator.Retrieved20 March2021.
  5. ^CooksInfo (4 October 2020)."Ice Wine".Cook's Info.Retrieved20 March2021.
  6. ^Magyar, I. (December 2011). "Chapter 6 - Botrytized Wines".Advances in Food and Nutrition Research.63:147–206.doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-384927-4.00006-3.
  7. ^"The Beautiful Bounty of Botrytized Wines".Wine Enthusiast Magazine.
  8. ^Kolpan, Steve; Weiss, Michael A.; Smith, Brian H. (2014).Winewise: Your Complete Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Enjoying Wine(2nd ed.).Houghton Mifflin Harcourt.p. 272.ISBN978-0-544-33462-5.
  9. ^Jancis Robinson, MW,"Tokaji", in Jancis Robinson's Concise Wine Companion (Oxford:Oxford University Press,2001), pp. 469–471,ISBN0-19-866274-2.
  10. ^Gorman-McAdams, Mary (Apr 29, 2010)."Delicious Dessert Wines for Dessert Week".The Kitchn.Retrieved27 April2019.
  11. ^Passino, Carla; Donati, Silvia (12 November 2014)."Three of the Best Italian Dessert Wines".Italy Magazine.Archivedfrom the original on Mar 31, 2023.
  12. ^Jeanne O'Brien Coffey (20 November 2017)."Surprise! Sauternes Is The Perfect Holiday Wine, From Apps To Dessert".Forbes.Archivedfrom the original on Jun 12, 2021.
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