Glasbury(Welsh:Y Clas-ar-Wy), also known asGlasbury-on-Wye,is a village andcommunityinPowys,Wales. The village lies at an important crossing point on theRiver Wye,connecting the historic counties ofBrecknockshireandRadnorshire,and is located just outside theBrecon Beacons National Park,north of theBlack Mountains.The village is split between thecommunitiesof Glasbury andGwernyfed.The nearest town isHay-on-Wye,some 4 miles (6 km) to the north east. The nearest city isHerefordinEngland,some 25 miles (40 km) to the east. Glasbury is a popular location forriver fishing,canoeingandkayaking.The population of GlasburycommunityinRadnorshirewas 994 (census 2011), in 1841 it was 838.[citation needed]

Glasbury
Glasbury is located in Powys
Glasbury
Glasbury
Location withinPowys
OS grid referenceSO179393
Principal area
Preserved county
CountryWales
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townHEREFORD
Postcode districtHR3
Post townBRECON
Postcode districtLD3
Dialling code014974
PoliceDyfed-Powys
FireMid and West Wales
AmbulanceWelsh
UK Parliament
Senedd Cymru – Welsh Parliament
List of places
UK
Wales
Powys
52°02′42″N3°12′07″W/ 52.045°N 3.202°W/52.045; -3.202

History

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Cynidr's Well, Ffynnon Gynydd

Saint Cynidr and early settlement

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The early village grew north of the river crossing, where achurchwas built dedicated to St Cynidr, a 6th-century bishop said to be buried in Glasbury.[1]The name 'Glasbury' derives from the Welsh 'clas', which signifies aglebeor church land. St Cynidr's name is retained in the small settlement of Ffynnon Gynydd to the north of the village, where Cynidr's well is still visible. From the 6th century to the 11th century, Glasbury formed part of the Kingdom ofBrycheiniog,ruled from nearbyTalgarth.

Bishops of Glasbury

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The importance of this early church was such that Glasbury was made adiocese.A list of the bishops of Glasbury still exists and gives the last bishop as Tryferyn, who died in 1055.[2]The diocese was subsumed by the bishopric ofGlamorgan,laterLlandaff.[3]

Battle of Glasbury

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In the mid 11th century, the Welsh kingdoms (including Brycheiniog) were temporarily united underGruffydd ap Llywelyn,King of Wales. On 16 June 1056, a battle was fought at Glasbury between an English force, led by BishopLeofgar of Hereford,and a Welsh force led by Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, at which the warrior bishop was killed.[4]

Marcher lordship

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After the Norman invasion, the kingdom of Brycheiniog (including Glasbury) was conquered or otherwise acquired byBernard de Neufmarché,one of theMarcher Lords.[5]In 1088, he presented the Manor and church of Glasbury to the Abbey of St Peter's at Gloucester and theparish churchof St. Cynidr was rededicated toSt Peter.The patronage of the church was later transferred to theBishop of Gloucesterand subsequently to theBishop of St David's,with whom it remains today.[6]

In 1144, as part of an exchange, the lordship of the Manor of Glasbury passed from Gloucester Abbey toWalter de Clifford,[7]after which time it was frequently contested by the marcher families. Following a dispute withJohn Giffard,the lordship passed to John de Braose of Glasbury (son ofJohn de Braose) in 1275.[8]In 1299, it passed to Margaret Longespee and her husbandHenry de Lacy, 3rd Earl of Lincolnand in 1330 toRoger Mortimer, 1st Earl of March.The lordship was seized by the crown in 1331, and granted to Eubulo le Strange, but returned to Mortimer's grandsonRoger Mortimer, 2nd Earl of Marchin 1354 and in 1360 to his sonEdmund Mortimer, 3rd Earl of March.[9]In 1404,King Henry IVgranted the lordship to Sir Robert Whitney "in consequence of his father...having been killed in the royal service and his property burnt by the Welsh rebels".[10]

Glasbury Castle

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Glasbury Castle, north of the river, was first mentioned in 1144 when it was granted (with the manor) to Walter de Clifford. In August 1233, the castle was attacked and captured byKing Henry IIIfollowing a baronial rebellion by the Cliffords, but little more is recorded after that, though it was still in existence in a survey of Glasbury Manor dated 1561[6]Remains of its earthworks were visible near the centre of the village until housing development in the 1970s.[11]

Split between Radnorshire and Breconshire

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Following the end of the semi-autonomous Marcher Lordships with theLaws in Wales Acts 1535–1542,the parish and village of Glasbury north of the Wye together with the village south of the Wye were placed in the hundred ofPainscastlein the county ofRadnorshire,whilst the outlying parts of the parish south of the Wye (includingFelindre,Pipton,and Tregoyd) were placed in the hundred of Talgarth in the county of Brecknockshire. This continued till 1844, when all of Glasbury south of the Wye was transferred toBrecknockshire.[12]

The village today

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St Peter's church

Two ecclesiastical parishes

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Following floods in the mid seventeenth century, the River Wye changed course and the old parish church of St Peter's found itself south (rather than north) of the river and subsequently fell into disrepair. A new one was built still further south in 1661, though the current building dates from 1837. It is now aGrade II listed building.[13]In 1883, a second church was built north of the river and the Radnorshire side of the village transferred to the new parish of Glasbury, All Saints.[6]TheOld Vicarage,overlooking the river just to the south of Glasbury Bridge, is ahall housedating from the 15th century, and aGrade I listed building.[14]

Maesllwch Castle

Maesllwch Castle

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Maesllwch Castle, overlooking Glasbury to the north, was built close to an originalhall houseof the Vaughan family which was later owned by Charles Lloyd. The house was rebuilt by the Howorths in 1715, when the surrounding park was also established. The current building was grandly conceived in castellated style by the architectRobert Lugarfor the de Winton family in the mid-nineteenth century. In the Second World War it was requisitioned and used as a Canadian hospital and subsequently by theLand Army.Part of the castle was later demolished to reduce the costs of upkeep, but it remains an imposing private residence and aGrade II listed building.[15][16]The gardens and park are listed at Grade II* on theCadw/ICOMOS Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest in Wales.[17]

Maesyronnen Chapel and the non-conformists

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Maesyronnen Chapel

The early puritannon-conformistVavasor Powellis believed to have first started his preaching career to the north of the village in the 1640s. The 1654 pamphlet 'Hue and cry after Mr Vavasor Powell' was written by Alexander Griffith, vicar of Glasbury, who had been expelled from the living by Vavasor and others for "drunkenness and lasciviousness".[18][19]

Maesyronnen chapelwas founded around 1691 on land donated by Charles Lloyd, squire of Maesllwch.[20]It is considered the most important surviving building associated with the non-conformist movement in Wales and lays claim to being the first and oldest chapel in Wales.[21]It is now aGrade I listed building,still used and maintained by theUnited Reformed Church.[22]A much later United Reformed chapel was built on the village green in "Gothic style" in 1866,[23]but is now a private residence. It remains aGrade II listed building.[16]

TheMethodistchapel at Cwmbach in the north of the village dates from 1818, when local farmer Richard Hergest received a revelation that it should be built in his meadow.[23]It is also aGrade II listed building[16]and remains in use.

TheBaptistchapel at Treble Hill, just south of and conveniently close to the River Wye, was built in "temple style" in 1866 and closed in 2010.[23]It remains aGrade II listed building.[13]

Glasbury Bridge

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Bridge at Glasbury

Glasbury Bridge has repeatedly been destroyed by floods. A wooden bridge was washed away in 1738, a replacement in 1777 and a stone bridge in 1795.[24]In 1850, a dispute between Brecknockshire and Radnorshire over costs for a new bridge led to the construction of a compromise half-wooden (Radnorshire), half-stone (Brecknockshire) bridge. The current six-span masonry bridge was built in 1923.[25]

Turnpikes, tramway, and railway

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Glasbury was and still is on the main road betweenBreconand Hereford and Brecon and Hay-on-Wye. These roads were formerlyturnpikesand a turnpiketoll house(now a private residence) still remains on the northern edge of the village. In 1843 aroyal commissionof inquiry took evidence that "The Glasbury gates are a great inconvenience" since "persons travelling from one part of the village to the other pay two tolls", one to the Radnorshire and one to the Brecknockshire trust.[26]This provoked an incident during theRebecca Riotsof 1843-44 when one of the Glasbury turnpike gates was destroyed.[27]

Atramwayconnecting Hay-on-Wye with theBrecknock and Abergavenny Canalran through Glasbury, on the southern side of the river. Called theHay Railway,it was horse-drawn, carried coal, limestone, and agricultural produce, and opened on 7 May 1816. The stations were known as 'wharves' and Glasbury Wharf was at Llwynau-bach, to the south-east of the village, where traces of stabling for the draught horses remain.[27]

The tramway was replaced by theHereford, Hay and Brecon Railwaywhich opened for traffic in 1864 and closed in 1962. The route mostly followed the old tramway.Glasbury Stationwas in the Treble Hill area in the south of the village, where three railway bridges are still standing.

Inns and shops

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Foyles of Glasbury (formerly the Maesllwch Arms) in the northern half of the village is an old coaching inn with stables and is aGrade II listed building.Though no longer on the main road, it still offers accommodation as well as food and drink,[28]as does the Harp Inn on the southern side.[29]Glasbury still retains a post office that operates from inside Glasbury Service Station. The red telephone box on the northern side, near Glasbury House, has now been turned into a book exchange.

Canoeing and outdoor activities

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Glasbury is a centre for canoeing and kayaking on the River Wye[30]and for walking and other activities in the Black Mountains. Two outdoor education centres are based in the village: Woodlands Outdoor Education Centre, owned byOxfordshireCounty Council,[31]and The River Wye Activity Centre, formerly owned by theLondon Borough of Redbridge.[32]Both offer accommodation and a range of activities for young people.

Glasbury Arts

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Since 2007, Glasbury has hosted an annual autumn to spring festival of events and workshops, celebrating literature, theatre, music and the visual arts. Guests have included harpistCatrin Finch,singersCoope Boyes and Simpson,Kiki Dee,Julie Felix,John Kirkpatrick,Isla St Clairand local writerJenny Valentine.[33]

Renamed "Buryglaze", Glasbury features as one of the locales forPeter Greenaway's 1978 short film,Vertical Features Remake.[34]

Community

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Following local government reorganization in 1974, the village of Glasbury was split between twocommunities.The southern (Brecknockshire) part of the village was placed in the community ofGwernyfedtogether with the neighbouring villages ofAberllynfiandFelindre.[35]The northern (Radnorshire) part of the village was placed in the misleadingly named community of Glasbury together with the neighbouring villages ofBoughrood,LlanstephanandLlowes.[36]

Orchards and the 'Glasbury' apple

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In 1815, the late Rev. John Hughes, curate of Glasbury, was described as "an active and zealous orchard-planter" who "introduced grafts from vigorous-bearing trees of the choicest cyder sorts".[37]Perhaps as a result of his endeavours, a 1912 guide book referred to Glasbury "nestling in a circle of orchards",[38]some few of which survive to this day.

An applecultivarcalled 'Glasbury' is still obtainable. It is adessert apple,said to have originated in Norfolk in 1872,[39]presumably from seeds or cuttings taken from Glasbury. Curiously, another cultivar called 'Glasbury' was recommended as acider applein a book published in 1835,[40]but this earlier apple now seems to be unknown.

Kilvert country

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Francis Kilvertwas curate of the nearby village ofClyrofrom 1865 to 1872. Glasbury is mentioned several times - often as "sweet Glasbury" - in his published diaries.[41]The diaries describe Kilverts unrequited love. He sought permission to marry Frances Eleanor Jane Thomas but was refused by her fatherWilliam Jones Thomas.The area known as "Kilvertcountry "includes Glasbury andHay-on-Wye,Clyro,Capel-y-ffin,Llowes,Llanigon,Painscastle,CliffordandWhitney-on-Wye.

Natural history

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Glasbury still lies entirely within thevice-countyof Radnorshire for the purposes of biological recording. Plant and lichen records are thus included in the Flora of Radnorshire.[42]

TheBrecknock Wildlife Trustnature reserve known as ‘Glasbury Cutting’ has been created from part of the disused Hereford, Hay and Brecon Railway line and is to the east of Glasbury, on the B4350 towards Hay-on-Wye. The reserve is home to raredormicewhich were discovered there in 2000.[43]

Governance

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The Glasbury community is part of a largerGlasbury electoral wardwhich elects a county councillor toPowys County Council.Since a by-election in August 2015 the councillor has beenLiberal DemocratJames Gibson-Watt, who used to represent nearbyHay-on-Wye.[44]

Notable people

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See also

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Notes

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  1. ^S. Baring-Gould; J. Fisher (1908).Lives of the British Saints.Vol. 2. For the honourable Society of cymmrodorion, by C. J. Clark. p. 258.
  2. ^ Wyn Evans, J.; Wooding, Jonathan M., eds. (2007).St. David of Wales: Cult, Church and Nation.Studies in Celtic History. Boydell and Brewer. pp. 300–301.ISBN978-1843833222.
  3. ^Davies, J. R.,The Book of Llandaf and the Norman church in Wales,p.27 (2003)ISBN1-84383-024-8
  4. ^"Glasbury local history site".Archived fromthe originalon 27 December 2007.Retrieved27 April2008.
  5. ^"Historic Landscape Characterisation - The Middle Wye Valley - The Administrative Landscape".cpat.org.uk.Retrieved8 December2010.
  6. ^abcRev. W. E. T. Morgan, Hay and neighbourhood, 1932.
  7. ^Golding, B. Cross-border Transactions. Haskins Soc. Journal 16: 39
  8. ^"John de Braose of Glasbury".freespace.virgin.net. Archived fromthe originalon 4 June 2011.Retrieved8 December2010.
  9. ^G. A. Holmes, The Estates of the Higher Nobility in 14th Century England, 1957.
  10. ^"Archive:Hundred of Huntington".WRG.Retrieved8 December2010.
  11. ^"Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust - Projects - Historic Landscapes - Middle Wye -".cpat.org.uk.
  12. ^"Clas-ar-wy, Y / Glasbury, St Peter".genuki.org.uk.Retrieved8 December2010.
  13. ^ab"Listed buildings in Gwernyfed".British Listed Buildings.co.uk.Retrieved1 February2012.
  14. ^Cadw."Old Vicarage (Grade I) (8734)".National Historic Assets of Wales.Retrieved16 August2024.
  15. ^"Maesllwch 2".history.powys.org.uk.
  16. ^abcCadw."Maesllwch Castle (Grade II) (17217)".National Historic Assets of Wales.Retrieved15 February2023.
  17. ^Cadw."Maesllwch Castle (PGW(Po)18(POW))".National Historic Assets of Wales.Retrieved6 February2023.
  18. ^"The beginnings of dissent Vavasor Powell (1617-1670)".Retrieved8 December2010.
  19. ^"Griffith, Alexander (d. 1676 )".Dictionary of Welsh Biography.National Library of Wales.Retrieved8 December2010.
  20. ^"Lloyd, Charles (d. 1698 )".Dictionary of Welsh Biography.National Library of Wales.Retrieved8 December2010.
  21. ^"Photo of chapel".
  22. ^"Funding announced to help some of Wales's historic buildings".cad.wales.gov.uk. 31 July 2006.Retrieved8 December2010.
  23. ^abc"Capel"(PDF).capeli.org.uk.Retrieved8 December2010.
  24. ^"Glasbury bridge on the River Wye, 1797:: Gathering the Jewels".25 June 2020.
  25. ^A. Crow, Bridges on the River Wye, 1995.ISBN0-9518589-9-8
  26. ^Report of the Commissioners of Inquiry for South Wales, Minutes of Evidence p.334 (1844)
  27. ^ab"Historic Landscape Characterisation - The Middle Wye Valley - Transport and Communication Landscapes".cpat.org.uk.Retrieved8 December2010.
  28. ^"Foyles of Glasbury".Retrieved6 October2023.
  29. ^"The Harp Inn".Retrieved1 February2012.
  30. ^"Wye Valley Canoe Centre".Retrieved1 February2012.
  31. ^"Woodland Outdoor Education Centre".Retrieved1 February2012.
  32. ^"The River Wye Activity Centr".Retrieved27 April2024.
  33. ^"Current programme of events".glasburyart.co.uk. Archived fromthe originalon 20 July 2008.Retrieved28 April2008.
  34. ^"Vertical Features Remake (1978)".petergreenaway.org.uk.Retrieved8 December2010.
  35. ^"Map".neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk.
  36. ^"Map".
  37. ^W. Davies, General view of the agriculture and domestic economy of South Wales, p.6 (1815)
  38. ^L. Davies,Cambridge County Geographies:Radnorshire, p.26 (1912)
  39. ^"AppleMalus domesticaGlasbury ".keepers-nursery.co.uk.Retrieved8 December2010.
  40. ^C. F. Partington,The British Cyclopaedia of Natural History,Vol. 1, p.177, 1835
  41. ^"PlaceHolder for customersites9.easily.co.uk".kilverts-diary. Archived fromthe originalon 13 May 2010.Retrieved8 December2010.
  42. ^R. Woods, Flora of RadnorshireISBN0-7200-0386-5
  43. ^"Glasbury Cutting Nature Reserve".Brecknock Wildlife Trust.Archived fromthe originalon 4 March 2016.Retrieved16 January2014.
  44. ^"Lib Dems win Powys council by-election".The Brecon & Radnor Express.14 August 2015.Retrieved26 January2018.
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