Thekhrui(Thai:ครุย,pronounced[kʰrūi]) is a light outer garment worn as a gown orrobein certain ceremonial settings inThailand.It is long-sleeved and open at the front, and is made of a sheer or mesh fabric, lined with a band of satin, felt or other material, and may be exquisitely embroidered. Dating from at least the 17th century, it was originally worn only in the royal court, but nowadays is most recognisable as the form ofacademic dressemployed by many universities, especiallyChulalongkorn University.
History
editThe exact origins of thekhruiare not known, although it has been postulated that it was likely of Persian and/or Indian import.[1]The earliest documentation of its use are from illustrations of the French embassy to KingNaraiin 1685 andthat of Siam to France in 1686,showing the Siamese king and ambassadors wearing such garments. Use of thekhruicontinued into theRattanakosin period,as evidenced by mention in the 1804Law of Three Sealsprohibiting its use by junior government officials.[2]
KingVajiravudh(Rama VI) further codified thekhrui's use by royal ordinance in 1912, specifying the different types and ranks to be worn by entitled royals and government officials.[3]He later also granted permission for it to be used as theacademic dressof the Royal Pages School (Vajiravudh College) in 1913 and Siam'sBar Associationin 1915.[4][5]It was adopted as the academic dress for graduates ofChulalongkorn Universityin 1930.[6]Since 1967, some other universities have also adopted thekhruias their academic regalia, and the termkhruihas acquired the more general meaning of any style of academic orcourt dress.
Appearance
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Thekhruiis a tailored robe, usually knee-to-calf-length, with long sleeves and an open front. It is made of a sheer or mesh fabric, usually white in colour, giving it a translucent appearance. The entire rim and the ends of the sleeves are lined with bands of a thicker material, usuallysatin,felt,or a substitute, with another like pair of bands encircling the sleeves above elbow level. When used as academic dress, these bands usually bear specific patterns denoting the wearer's affiliated institution and academic degree. When used in ceremonial settings by senior government officials or royalty, the gown may be embroidered with certain patterns ofgoldworkdepending on the rank of the wearer.[3]Khruiused as royal attire differ further in certain details, and may be made of coloured or gold cloth.
Use
editKhruitraditionally denoted royal or noble status, and was worn only by men. Members of the royal family would first use it during theirsokan(topknot-cutting) ceremony.[a]The king would wear it on special occasions such as his coronation, royal processions or when receiving special audiences.[7]Its use bynak[b]—novices preparing to undergoupasampada(Buddhist ordination)—is the only occasion where thekhruiis worn regardless of a person's social rank.
According to the 1912 ordinance, persons may be entitled to wearkhruithrough rank, office, or further royal permission. Entitled ranks include Grand Companions and above of theOrder of Chula Chom Klaoand Knight Commanders and above of the Orders ofthe White Elephantorthe Crown of Thailand.Judges may wear it duringfull dressroyal ceremonies; other government officials may wear it during such ceremonies if they are performing certain addresses, or if it has been specified for the occasion.[3][8]Such occasions are nowadays rare, though thekhruiis still seen in the ceremonial costumes worn during the annualRoyal Ploughing Ceremonyand occasional royal processions.
Today, thekhruiis most readily identified as the academic dress of several Thai universities, Chulalongkorn University being its oldest and most prominent adopter. It is worn without a cap, over the university's dress uniform (usually araj patternjacket and white trousers for males, white blouse and navy skirt for females) for undergraduate degrees, or a suit and tie for graduate degrees. Like most of its counterparts, it use in this form is usually seen only during graduation ceremonies.
Gallery
editRoyal gowns
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KingPrajadhipoksigns theConstitution of the Kingdom of Siam, Buddhist Era 2475 (1932),on 10 December 1932, wearing the Gown of the Great House of Chakri (ครุยมหาจักรีบรมราชวงศ์;Khrui Maha Chakkri Boromma Ratchawong) and the Crown of Five Tops (ชฎาห้ายอด;ChadaHa Yot). -
KingMongkutwears the Gown of the Great House of Chakri, theGreat Crown of Victoryand theRoyal Slippers;photo taken around 1851. -
A painting depicts KingNangklaowearing the Gown of the Great House of Chakri. -
Proceeding from theGrand Palaceto theTemple of the Emerald Buddhaon 5 May 1950, KingBhumibol Adulyadejwears the Gold-Woven Gown (ครุยกรองทอง;Khrui Krong Thong). Part of theCoronation of the Thai monarch.
Official gowns
edit"Nobleman's Gown"
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The officers on the Chariot of Great Victory wear the Nobleman's Gowns (ครุยขุนนาง;Khrui Khun Nang) together with the ancient official headgear calledLomphok(ลอมพอก). The Chariot is carrying the urn of PrincessBejaratana Rajasudato the crematorium atSanam Luangon 9 April 2012. -
An officer supporting the urn of Princess Bejaratana Rajasuda on the Lord's Palanquin wears the Nobleman's Gown and theLomphok,10 April 2012. -
The officers on the Minor Chariot wear the Nobleman's Gown and theLomphok.The Chariot is carrying The Most ReverendSomdet Phra Wannarat (Chun Phrommakhutto),the Abbot ofWat Bowonniwet Vihara,on 15 November 2008. -
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A French drawing depicts Siamese diplomats wearing the Nobleman's Gown and theLomphokwhile presenting KingNarai's missive to Louis XIV in 1687.
"Ministerial Gown"
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Prime MinisterAbhisit Vejjajivawears the First-Class Ministerial Gown (ครุยเสนามาตย์ชั้นเอก;Khrui Senamat Chan Ek). This golden brocaded gown was part of the traditional attire of the Chief Minister of the Civil Service in ancient times and is now still in ceremonial use. -
Chai Chidchobwears the Second-Class Ministerial Gown (ครุยเสนามาตย์ชั้นโท;Khrui Senamat Chan Tho). A recipient of the first or second class of theOrder of Chula Chom Klaois entitled to wear this gown.
Academic gowns
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An academic gown ofChulalongkorn University,worn by King Prajadhipok. -
A graduate ofSukhothai Thammathirat Open Universitywears the university's academic gown.
See also
editFootnotes
editReferences
edit- ^มะสะลุม (5 December 2004)."มะงุมมะงาหรา".Osotho(in Thai).45(5). Archived fromthe originalon 6 August 2012.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^Memorial Hall of Chulalongkorn University (17 March 2011)."ครุย: ความหมายและความเป็นมา (Khrui: meaning and history)"(in Thai). Memorial Hall of Chulalongkorn University. Archived fromthe originalon 4 March 2016.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^abc"พระราชกำหนดเสื้อครุย"(PDF).Royal Gazette(in Thai).28:141–6. 2 July 1912. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on March 4, 2016.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^Chongkol, Sawat."ฉลองพระองค์ครุยพระบรมราชูปถัมภก".ของดีหอประวัติ(in Thai). Memorial Hall of Chulalongkorn University. Archived fromthe originalon 3 March 2012.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^"พระราชกำหนดเสื้อครุยเนติบัณฑิต"(PDF).Royal Gazette(in Thai).31:537–8. 28 February 1915. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on March 20, 2009.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^"พระราชกำหนดเสื้อครุยบัณฑิต ของจุฬาลงกรณ์มหาวิทยาลัย พุทธศักราช 2473"(PDF).Royal Gazette(in Thai).47:92–5. 6 July 1930. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on September 30, 2007.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^Pakdeecharean, Penluck (7 July 2009)."กรุผ้าโบราณ เผ่าทอง ทองเจือ (Paothong Thongchua's historical clothing collection)".Krungthep Turakij(in Thai). Archived fromthe originalon 21 August 2011.Retrieved25 August2012.
- ^"พระราชกำหนดเสื้อครุยเพิ่มเติม"(PDF).Royal Gazette(in Thai).31:422–3. 11 November 1914. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on March 4, 2016.Retrieved25 August2012.