Wikipedia

Strand, London

For the former Strand local government district of London, seeStrand District (Metropolis).
"Strand (street)" redirects here. For the street in Cape Town, South Africa, seeStrand Street.

TheStrand(commonly referred to with a leading "The", but formally without[a]) is a major street in theCity of Westminster,Central London.The street, which is part of London'sWest End theatreland,runs just over3⁄4mile (1.2 km) fromTrafalgar Squareeastwards toTemple Bar,where it becomesFleet Streetin theCity of London,and is part of theA4,a main road running west from inner London.

Strand
Strand atCharing Crossin April 2008, looking towardsTrafalgar SquareandAdmiralty Arch
Strand, London is located in City of Westminster
Strand, London
Location in Central London
Part ofA4
Maintained byTransport for London
Length0.8 mi (1.3 km)[1]
Postal codeWC2
Nearest Tube station
Coordinates51°30′41″N0°07′08″W/ 51.5114°N 0.1190°W/51.5114; -0.1190

The road's name comes from theOld Englishstrond,meaning the beach or edge of a river, as it historically ran alongside the north bank of theRiver Thames.The river side of the street was home to grand houses, interspersed with slum alleys, between the 12th and 17th centuries. Historically important mansions built between the Strand and the river includedEssex House,Arundel House,Old Somerset House,Savoy Palace,Durham House,York HouseandCecil House,none of which survive. The aristocracy moved to theWest Endduring the 17th century, and the Strand became known for its coffee shops, restaurants and taverns. The street was a centre point for theatre andmusic hallduring the 19th century, and several venues have survived to the current day.

At the east end of the street are twoEnglish Baroquechurches:St Mary le StrandbyJames GibbsandSt Clement DanesbyChristopher Wren.This easternmost stretch of the Strand is also home toKing's College,one of the two founding colleges of theUniversity of London.Other notable structures include theRoyal Courts of JusticeandAustralia House.[2][3][4][5][6]

Several authors, poets and philosophers have lived on or near the Strand, includingCharles Dickens,Ralph Waldo EmersonandVirginia Woolf.

Geography

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The street is the main link between the two cities ofWestminsterandLondon.[7]It runs eastward fromTrafalgar Square,parallel to theRiver Thames,toTemple Barwhich is the boundary between the two cities at this point; the road ahead beingFleet Street.[1]Traffic travelling eastbound follows a short crescent aroundAldwych,connected at both ends to the Strand. The road marks the southern boundary of theCovent Gardendistrict[8]and forms part of theNorthbankbusiness improvement district.[9]

The name was first recorded in 1002 asstrondway,[10][7]then in 1185 asStrondeand in 1220 asla Stranda.[11]It is formed from theOld Englishword 'strond', meaning the edge of a river.[7]Initially it referred to the shallow bank of the once much wider Thames, before the construction of theVictoria Embankment.The name was later applied to the road itself. In the 13th century it was known as 'Densemanestret' or 'street of the Danes', referring to the community ofDanesin the area.[11]

TwoLondon Undergroundstations were once named Strand: aPiccadilly linestation (which was renamedAldwych station) that operated between 1907 and 1994[12]and a formerNorthern linestation which today forms part ofCharing Cross station.'Strand Bridge' was the name given toWaterloo Bridgeduring its construction; it was renamed for its official opening on the second anniversary of the coalition victory in theBattle of Waterloo.[13]London buses routes23,139and176all run along the Strand, as do numerous night bus services.[14]

History

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This 1593 map shows "The Strande" as the principal route – parallel to the River, fromthe Cityin the east, toWhitehallin the west

DuringRoman Britain,what is now the Strand was part of theroutetoSilchester,known as "Iter VIII" on theAntonine Itinerary,[15]and which later became known by the nameAkeman Street.[16][17]It was briefly part of a trading town calledLundenwicthat developed around 600 AD,[18]and stretched fromTrafalgar SquaretoAldwych.[19]Alfred the Greatgradually moved the settlement into the old Roman town ofLondiniumfrom around 886 AD onwards, leaving no mark of the old town, and the area returned to fields.[18]

In theMiddle Ages,the Strand became the principal route between the separate settlements of theCity of London(the civil and commercial centre) and the royalPalace of Westminster(the national political centre). In the archaeological record, there is considerable evidence of occupation to the north of Aldwych, but much along the former foreshore has been covered by rubble from the demolition of theTudorSomerset Place, a former royal residence, to create a large platform for the building of the firstSomerset House,in the 17th century.[20]The landmarkEleanor's Crosswas built in the 13th century at the western end of the Strand atCharing CrossbyEdward Icommemorating his wifeEleanor of Castile.It was demolished in 1647 by the request of Parliament during theFirst English Civil War,but reconstructed in 1865.[21]

The west part of the Strand was in the parish ofSt Martin in the Fields[22]and in the east it extended into the parishes ofSt Clement DanesandSt Mary le Strand.Most of its length was in theLiberty of Westminster,[23]although part of the eastern section in St Clement Danes was in theOssulstonehundred of Middlesex.[24]The Strand was the northern boundary of theprecinct of the Savoy,which was approximately where the approach toWaterloo Bridgeis now.[25]All of these parishes and places became part of theStrand Districtin 1855, except St Martin in the Fields which was governed separately.[26]The Strand District Board of Works was based at No. 22,Tavistock Street.[27]Strand District was abolished in October 1900 and became part of theMetropolitan Borough of Westminster.[28]

Palaces

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From the 12th century onwards, large mansions lined the Strand including several palaces andtownhousesinhabited by bishops and royal courtiers, mainly on the south side, with their own river gates and landings directly on the Thames. The road was poorly maintained, with many pits and sloughs, and a paving order was issued in 1532 to improve traffic.[29]

What later becameEssex Houseon the Strand was originally an Outer Temple of theKnights Templarin the 11th century. In 1313, ownership passed to the Knights of St John.Henry VIIIgave the house toWilliam, Baron Pagetin the early 16th century.Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester,rebuilt the house in 1563, originally calling it Leicester House. It was renamed Essex House after being inherited byRobert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex,in 1588. It was demolished around 1674 and Essex Street, leading up to the Strand, was built on the location by property speculatorNicholas Barbon.[30]

Arundel Housewas originally the town house of theBishops of Bath and Wells.It was owned byWilliam FitzWilliam, 1st Earl of Southamptonbetween 1539 and his death in 1542, with ownership passing toThomas Seymourin 1545. After Seymour was executed in 1549, the property was sold toHenry FitzAlan, Earl of Arundel,and was owned by the Earldom for much of the 16th and 17th century. In 1666, it became the meeting place of theRoyal Societyafter theGreat Fire of Londondestroyed their previous venue. The house was demolished in 1678 and Arundel Street, adjoining the Strand, was built on the site.[31]

The originalSomerset Housein 1722

Somerset Housewas built byEdward Seymour, Duke of Somerset,regent of England from 1547 to 1549, demolishing three inns and the church of the Nativity of Our Lady and the Innocents in the process. After Somerset was executed in 1552, it became an occasional residence forPrincess Elizabeth.When she became Queen in 1558, she returned part of the house to Seymour's family (with ownership passing to his son,Edward Seymour, 1st Earl of Hertford); the remainder was an occasional meeting place for the Royal Society. After Elizabeth's death in 1603, it was owned byAnne of Denmark,wife ofJames VI and I.The building was renamed Denmark House in commemoration of Anne's brother,Christian IV of Denmark.After James died in 1625, his body lay there intestate for a month. The building was taken over by Parliament in 1645 following the Civil War, renaming it back to Somerset House.[32]It had an irregular series of owners and residents for much of the 18th century until it was demolished in 1775. The house was rebuilt as a series of government buildings. The Stamp Office, later to become theInland Revenuewas established in Somerset House in 1789. In the late 20th century, a number of art galleries were set up on vacant parts, including theCourtauld Institute of Artand theKing's College London School of Law.[32]

A 19th-century print showingSt Mary le Strandand the Strand front ofSomerset House

Savoy Palacewas the London residence ofJohn of Gaunt,King Richard II's uncle and the nation's power broker. In the 14th century the Savoy was the most magnificent nobleman's mansion in England. During thePeasants' Revoltof 1381, rebels, led byWat Tyler,inflamed by opposition to the poll tax promoted by John of Gaunt, systematically demolished the Savoy and everything in it. In 1512 it was rebuilt as the Savoy Hospital for the poor. It gradually fell into dereliction and was divided into multiple tenancies. It was demolished in 1816–1820 to build the approach road toWaterloo Bridge.eventually being demolished in the 19th century. TheSavoy Hotelnow occupies this site.[33]

Exeter Exchange,viewed from the Strand in the early 19th century

Durham House,the historic London residence of theBishop of Durham,was built circa 1345 and demolished in the mid-17th century. It was the home ofAnne Boleyn.It had become derelict by the mid-17th century and was demolished in 1660. Durham Street and the Adelphi Buildings were built on its site.[34]

York Housewas built as the London residence for theBishop of Norwichnot later than 1237. At the time of the Reformation it was acquired byKing Henry VIIIand came to be known as York House when he granted it to theArchbishop of Yorkin 1556. In the 1620s it was acquired by the royal favouriteGeorge Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham,and after an interlude during the Civil War it was returned toGeorge Villiers, 2nd Duke of Buckingham,who sold it to developers in 1672. It was then demolished and new streets and buildings built on the site, including George Street,Villiers Street,Duke Street, Of Alley, and Buckingham Street.[35]

Cecil House,also called Exeter House or Burghley House, was built in the 16th century byLord Burghleyas an expansion of an existing Tudor house. Exeter House was demolished in 1676 andExeter Exchangebuilt on the site.[36]Amenageriewas built on the upper floors in 1773, which was later run byEdward Cross,who housed lions, tigers, monkeys and hippopotami. In 1826, an elephant,Chunee,nearly broke free from its cage and had to be destroyed; the skeleton was later put on display. The exchange was demolished in 1829, with the menagerie moving to theSurrey Zoological Gardens,and replaced byExeter Hall,noted for itsEvangelicalmeetings. This was demolished in 1907, and the site is now occupied by theStrand Palace Hotel.[37]

Other significant palaces along the Strand include Worcester House, formerly the Inn, or residence, of theBishop of Carlisle,[38]Salisbury House, used for royal lodgings in the 15th and 16th centuries,[39]Bedford Housedemolished in 1704,[40]Hungerford House, which was demolished and replaced, in turn, byHungerford MarketandCharing Cross stationandNorthumberland House,a largeJacobeanmansion, the historic London residence of theDukes of Northumberland;built in 1605 and demolished in 1874.Northumberland Avenuenow occupies the site.[41]The official residence of the Secretary of State, next door at No. 1 the Strand, became the first numbered address in London.[42]

Apart from the rebuilt Somerset House, all of these buildings have been demolished and replaced from the 17th century onwards.[29]A New Exchange was built on part of the gardens of Durham House, in 1608–1609, facing the Strand. This high-class shopping centre enjoyed considerable popularity but was eventually destroyed in 1737.[43]

Modern era

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Strand, looking eastwards from Exeter Exchange (1822) – the distant church isSt Mary le Strand,withSt Clement Danesbehind

During the 17th century, many of the grand mansions on the Strand were demolished as the aristocracy moved to theWest End.[29]The Duck and Drake tavern on Strand was famed as a venue for the conspirators involved in theGunpowder Plot.[42][44]In the time of the Civil War, the Nag's Head tavern was the venue of a meeting betweenHenry Iretonand some of theLevellerswhich resulted in the production ofRemonstrance of the Army,demanding the abolition of the monarchy and the trial ofKing Charles I.[45]

In the 18th century,coffeeandchop houseswere established on the street;Twiningswas established at No. 206 in 1706 by Thomas Twining, supplier of tea to Queen Anne. The company claims to be the oldest ratepayer in Westminster. The Grecian Coffee House ran from around 1702 to 1803, while Tom's ran from 1706 to around 1775. Though these premises were well-known, the alleyways around the Strand were regular haunts for pickpockets and prostitutes during this time.[29]The Rose Tavern, at the eastern end of the street, was frequented by lawyers during the 18th century. It was later demolished and became Thanet Place. TheCrown and Anchorin Arundel Street was the main meeting place for the Catholic Association, and helped established theRoman Catholic Relief Act 1829.It was later used for Catholic politicians such asDaniel O'Connellto address constituents. The original premises burned down in 1854, but was rebuilt.[20]Simpson's-in-the-Strandoriginally started at No. 100 in 1828 as a smoking and dining club.[46]It later became a restaurant.[7]The Strand was also notable in the 18th century as a centre for the British book trade, with numerous printers and publishers along the street. The prominent booksellerAndrew Millaris an example of one of the most successful publishers who owned a shop there.[47]

In the 19th century, much of the Strand was rebuilt, and the houses to the south no longer backed onto the Thames and no longer had direct boat access, separated from the river by theVictoria Embankmentconstructed in 1865–1870 and reclaiming 37 acres (15 ha) of land.[48]King's College, Londonwas founded in 1828. The historicKing's Building,based next to the church ofSt Mary-le-Strand,was designed byRobert Smirkeand constructed in 1829–1831 to complete the riverside frontage ofSomerset House.King's College Hospitalopened as a branch of the college in 1840, and became a constituent part of theUniversity of Londonin 1908. The current campus building was constructed between 1966 and 1972 by E.D. Jefferiss Mathews.[49]In 2015, the college acquired Strand House, Bush House and other buildings in the Aldwych Quarter.[50][51]TheRoyal Courts of Justice,at the eastern end of the Strand, was designed in the mid-1860s by G.E. Street as a replacement for the older courts atWestminster Hall,though construction was so delayed that he died shortly beforeQueen Victoriaopened the courts in 1882. The West Green extension to the courts opened in 1911, while the Queen's Building opened in 1968.[52]

Twinings' Tea Shop has been based on the Strand since 1706

The architectJohn Nashredeveloped the western end of the Strand in the 1830s, including the construction ofCharing Cross Hospital,[48]later (1990s) converted for use as Charing Crosspolice station.[53]

The street became well known for theatres, and at one point contained more than any other; including the Tivoli Music Hall at No. 65, theAdelphi,Gaiety,Savoy,Terry'sandVaudeville.In the 21st century, only the Adelphi, Vaudeville and Savoy remain.[54]The Piccadilly branch line from Holborn to Aldwych was built partly to serve theatre traffic.[12]

TheCoal Holetavern was founded at No. 91 in the early 19th century, and frequented by coal-heavers working on the Thames.[55]The impresarioRenton Nicholsonheld song-and-supper evenings at the inn, featuringtableaux vivants.[56]The actorEdmund Keanestablished the Wolf Club at the venue, which is now commemorated by the Wolf Room.[55]

Charing Cross railway stationwas built on the Strand in 1864, providing a boat train service to Europe, which stimulated the growth of hotels in the area to cater for travellers. These included the Charing Cross Hotel, attached to the station itself. Today, there are several luggage outlets and tourist agents on the Strand, as well as old postage stamp dealers.[57]ThephilatelistStanley Gibbonsopened a shop at No. 435 in 1891. It moved to No. 391 in 1893, and is now currently based at No. 399.[58]

TheStrand Palace Hotelwas designed by F.J.Wills and constructed in 1925–1930. The entrance was rebuilt in 1968, with the original being moved to theVictoria and Albert Museum.[59]The Strand underwent extensive redevelopment in the mid-20th century. The length of road from St Mary's eastwards up to St Clement's was widened in 1900, subsuming the former Holywell Street which forked from the Strand and ran parallel with it to the north, leaving the two churches of St Mary Le Strand and St Clement Danes as islands in the centre of the road.[60]Gaiety Theatre was demolished, to be replaced by Citibank House, whileVilliers HouseandNew South Wales Housewere both built in 1957–1959. New South Wales House was subsequently demolished in 1996 and replaced by an office block.[29]In 1998, a statue ofOscar Wildewas built at the junction of Adelaide Street and Duncannon Street, adjoining the western end of the Strand.[61][62]

Between January 2021[63]and December 2022[64]Westminster City Council's Strand Aldwych Scheme works took place, pedestrianising Strand between Melbourne Place and Lancaster Place whilstAldwychwas converted into a two-way street.[65]

Churches

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AnAEC Routemasteronroute 1heading down the Strand in 1981, withSt Clement Daneschurch in the background

The church ofSt Clement Danesis believed to date from the 9th century. The name may have come fromHarold Harefoot,a Danish king who ruled England around 1035–1040 and is buried in the church, or from a place of refuge for Danes after the conquest ofAlfred the Great.It was transferred to the Order of the Knights Templar byHenry IIin 1189. It survived the Great Fire in 1666, but was declared unsafe and rebuilt byChristopher Wrenin 1679. The building was damaged duringthe Blitzin 1941, gutting much of the interior, and was rebuilt in 1958 by Sam Lloyd, since when it has served as the central church of theRoyal Air Force.[66][67][68]The church is one of two possible origins for the "St Clement's" in thenursery rhyme"Oranges and Lemons",though more contemporary accounts suggestSt Clement's, Eastcheapin the City of London to be more likely.[69]

St Mary le Strandwas designed by James Gibbs and completed in 1717, to replace a previous church demolished to make way for Somerset House. It was the first building to be designed by Gibbs, who was influenced by Wren andMichelangelo.The column on top of the church was originally designed to support a statue ofQueen Anne,but was replaced with a spire following Anne's death in 1714. It survived the Blitz but was in poor shape untilJohn Betjemanled a campaign to restore it in the 1970s.[70]Essex Street Chapel,the birthplace of BritishUnitarianism,abuts onto the Strand. The original chapel was built in 1774, but damaged in the Blitz. It was restored after the war, and now serves as the denominational headquarters of theGeneral Assembly of Unitarian and Free Christian Churches.[71]

Notable residents

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The print sellerRudolph Ackermannlived and worked at No. 101 The Strand between 1797 and 1827. His shop was one of the first to havegas lightingfitted.[29]

In the 19th century, The Strand became a newly fashionable address and many avant-garde writers and thinkers gathered here, among themThomas Carlyle,Charles Dickens,John Stuart Mill,Ralph Waldo Emersonand the scientistThomas Henry Huxley.[72]No. 142 was the home of radical publisher and physicianJohn Chapman,who published contemporary authors from this house during the 1850s and edited the journalWestminster Reviewfrom 1851.[73]George Eliotlived at No. 142 between 1851 and 1855.[29]Virginia Woolfregularly travelled along the Strand,[74]and a King's College building named after her is in nearbyKingsway.[75]

Cultural references

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The Strand is the subject of a famousmusic hallsong "Let's All Go Down the Strand",composed byHarry CastlingandC. W. Murphy.[76]The song opens with a group of tourists staying the night at Trafalgar Square while about to embark for theRhineland.[77]The chorus of "Let's all go down the Strand – have a banana"[b]is now recognised as a stereotypical part ofCockneymusic hall[12]and parodied by English comedianBill Bailey.[79]John Betjemanused the title of the song for a television documentary made forAssociated-Rediffusionin 1967.[80]The same year,Margaret Williamsused it for a stage comedy.[81]Australian-born composerPercy Graingerused the name for his 1911 piano trioHandel in the Strand.[82]

Virginia Woolfwrote about the Strand in several of her essays, including "Street Haunting: A London Adventure,"[83]and the novelMrs. Dalloway.[84]T. S. Eliotalluded to the Strand in his 1905 poem "At Graduation" and in his 1922 poem "The Waste Land" (part III, The Fire Sermon, v. 258: "and along the Strand, up Queen Victoria Street" ).[85]John Masefieldalso referred to a "jostling in the Strand" in his poem "On Growing Old".[86]The poem "Buses on the Strand", written in 1958 byRichard Percival Lister,featured inTFL's "Poems on the Underground" scheme in 2013, appearing in tube carriages all over London. The scheme celebrated of the 150th year of the London Underground with works by poets with close London connections.[87]

The Strand Magazine,which began publishing in 1891, was named after the street. ABBC World Servicearts and culture radio series was calledThe Strand.[88]Bush House,situated on the Strand, was home to the World Service between 1941 and 2012.[89]

The standard BritishMonopolyboard has Strand in a group with the nearbyFleet StreetandTrafalgar Square.[90]

See also

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References

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Explanatory notes

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  1. ^The official documentation fromWestminster City Councilcalls the road simply "Strand", as do the street name signs. ("Strand Detail"(PDF).Westminster City Council. Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 13 January 2016.Retrieved28 December2015.) But in colloquial speech it is normally "the Strand", especially after prepositions such as "to", "on", or "from".
  2. ^The phrase "have a banana" was not part of the original song but was popularly inserted by singers; at the time the banana was an exotic delicacy.[78]

Citations

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