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Baghdad

Coordinates:33°18′55″N44°21′58″E/ 33.31528°N 44.36611°E/33.31528; 44.36611
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Baghdad
بَغْدَاد
Mayoralty of Baghdad
Top-bottom, L-R:
Aerial view of theGreen Zone;
Haydar-Khana Mosque• Statue ofKarim Qasim
Iraq Museum• House ofSassoon Eskell
Atraqchi for Art & cultural heritage• View over Baghdad and the Tigris river
Flag of Baghdad
Official seal of Baghdad
Nickname:
City of Peace (مَدِيْنَةُ السَّلَام)[1]
Baghdad is located in Iraq
Baghdad
Baghdad
Location of Baghdad within Iraq
Baghdad is located in Asia
Baghdad
Baghdad
Baghdad (Asia)
Coordinates:33°18′55″N44°21′58″E/ 33.31528°N 44.36611°E/33.31528; 44.36611
CountryIraq
GovernorateBaghdad
Established30 July 762 AD
Founded byCaliph al-Mansur
Districts11
Government
• TypeMayor–council
• BodyBaghdad City Advisory Council
MayorAmmar Moussa Kadhum
Area
• Total673 km2(260 sq mi)
Elevation
34 m (112 ft)
Population
• Estimate
(2024)
7,921,134[2]
• Rank1st in Iraq
DemonymBaghdadi
Time zoneUTC+3(Arabian Standard Time)
• Summer (DST)UTC+3(No DST)
Postal code
10001 to 10090
Websiteamanatbaghdad.gov.iq(in Arabic)

Baghdad(/ˈbæɡdæd/BAG-dador/bəɡˈdæd/bəg-DAD;Arabic:بَغْدَاد,romanized:Baghdād,[baɣˈdaːd]) is the capital ofIraqand thesecond-largest cityin theArab worldafterCairo.It is located on theTigrisriver. In 762 AD, Baghdad was founded as the capital of theAbbasid Caliphate,and became its most notable major development project. Within a short time, the city evolved into a significant cultural, commercial, and intellectual center of theMuslim world.This, in addition to housing several key academic institutions, including theHouse of Wisdom,as well as a multi-ethnic and multi-religious environment, garnered it a worldwide reputation as the "Center of Learning".

For much of the Abbasid era, during theIslamic Golden Age,Baghdad was the largest city in the world. Its population peaked at more than one million people.[3]The city was largelydestroyedat the hands of theMongol Empirein 1258, resulting in a decline that would linger through many centuries due to frequent plagues and multiple successive empires. With the recognition ofIraqas an independent state (formerly theBritish Mandate of Mesopotamia) in 1932, Baghdad gradually regained some of its former prominence as a significant center ofArab culture,with a population variously estimated at 6 or over 7 million.[note 1]Compared to its large population, it has a small area at just 673 square kilometers (260 sq mi).

The city has faced severe infrastructural damage due to theIraq War,which began with the United States-ledinvasion of Iraq in 2003and lasted until 2011, and the subsequentinsurgencyand renewedwarthat lasted until 2017, resulting in asubstantial loss of cultural heritage and historical artifacts.During this period, Baghdad had one of the highest rates of terrorist attacks in the world. However, terrorist attacks have gradually been on the decline since the territorial defeat of theIslamic Statemilitant group in Iraq in 2017, and are very rare now.[8]

Name

[edit]

The name Baghdad is pre-Islamic, and its origin is disputed.[9]The site where the city of Baghdad developed has been populated for millennia. Archaeological evidence shows that the site of Baghdad was occupied by various peoples long before the Arab conquest ofMesopotamiain 637 CE, and several ancient empires had capitals located in the surrounding area.[10]

Arab authors, realizing the pre-Islamic origins of Baghdad's name, generally looked for its roots inMiddle Persian.[9]They suggested various meanings, the most common of which was "bestowed by God".[9][11]Modern scholars generally tend to favor this etymology,[9]which views the word as a Persian compound ofbagh() "god" anddād() "given".[12][13]InOld Persianthe first element can be traced toboghuand is related toIndo-IranianbhagandSlavicbog"god."[9][14]A similar term in Middle Persian is the nameMithradāt(MehrdadinNew Persian), known in English by its borrowed Hellenistic formMithridates,meaning "Given byMithra"(dātis the more archaic form ofdād,related to Sanskritdāt,Latindatand Englishdonor),[9]ultimately borrowed from PersianMehrdad.There are a number of other locations whose names are compounds of the Middle Persian wordbagh,includingBaghlanandBagramin Afghanistan,Baghshanin Iran itself,[15]andBaghdatiinGeorgia,which likely share the same etymological Iranic origins.[16][17][18]

Other authors have suggested older origins for the name, in particular the nameBagdaduorHudaduthat existed inOld Babylonian(spelled with a sign that can represent bothbagandhu), and theJewish Babylonian Aramaicname of a place calledBaghdatha(בגדתא).[9][19][20]Some scholars suggested Aramaic derivations.[9]

Another view, suggested by Christophe Wall-Romana, is that name of "Baghdad" is derived from "Akkad",as the cuneiform logogram for Akkad (𒀀𒂵𒉈𒆠) is pronounced"a-ga-dèKI"(" Agade ") and its resemblance to" Baghdad "is compelling.[21][22]

When the Abbasid caliphal-Mansurfounded a completely new city for his capital, he chose the name "City of Peace" (Arabic:مدینة السلام,romanized:Madīnat as-Salām), which now refers to theRound City of Baghdadproper. This was the official name on coins, weights, and other official usage, although the common people continued to use the old name.[23][24][unreliable source?]By the 11th century,Baghdadbecame almost the exclusive name for the world-renowned metropolis.

Christophe Wall-Romana has suggested that al-Mansur's choice to found his "new city" at Baghdad because of its strategic location was the same criteria which influencedSargon'schoice to found the original city of Akkad in the exact same location.[25][26]

History

[edit]

Foundation

[edit]
An 1808 picture of Baghdad from the print collection inTravels in Asia and Africa, etc.(ed.J. P. Berjew,British Library)

After the fall of theUmayyads,the first Muslim dynasty, the victoriousAbbasidrulers wanted their own capital from which they could rule. They chose a site north of theSassanidcapital ofCtesiphon,and on 30 July 762[27]thecaliphAl-Mansurcommissioned the construction of the city. It was built under the guidance of theBarmakids.[28]Mansur believed that Baghdad was the perfect city to be the capital of the Islamic Empire under the Abbasids. The Muslim historian al-Tabari reported an ancient prediction by Christian monks that a lord named Miklas would one day build a spectacular city around the area of Baghdad. When al-Mansur heard the story, he became very joyful, for legend has it, he was called Miklas as a child.[29]Mansur loved the site so much he is quoted saying: "This is indeed the city that I am to found, where I am to live, and where my descendants will reign afterward".[30]Al-Mansur also planned out al-Karkh region

DirhamofHarun al-Rashidcirca 807 Baghdad

The city's growth was helped by its excellent location, based on at least two factors: it had control over strategic and trading routes along theTigris,and it had an abundance of water in a dry climate. Water exists on both the north and south ends of the city, allowing all households to have a plentiful supply, which was quite uncommon during this time. The city of Baghdad quickly became so large that it had to be divided into three judicial districts: Madinat al-Mansur (the Round City), al-Sharqiyya (al-Karkh) and Askar al-Mahdi (on the West Bank).[31]Al-Mansur also planned out al-Karkh district so that he could separate the markets from the Round City in order to keep the turbulent populace away from the Round City to ensure that the gates would not be open at night for markets. Over time, the markets became diverse and a home to merchants and craftsmen. Officials with the title of “Muhtasib” were hired to look after markets to prevent cheating and check the weighs and measures of stocks.[32]

Baghdad eclipsed Ctesiphon, the capital of the Sassanians, which was located some 30 km (19 mi) to the southeast. Today, all that remains of Ctesiphon is the shrine town ofSalman Pak,just to the south of Greater Baghdad which is whereSalman the Persianis believed to have been buried. Ctesiphon itself had replaced and absorbedSeleucia,the first capital of theSeleucid Empire,which had earlier replaced the city of Babylon.

An 1468 painting of Floods in Baghdad by Shirwan

According to the travelerIbn Battuta,Baghdad was one of the largest cities,[clarification needed]not including the damage it has received. The residents are mostlyHanbalis.Baghdad is also home to the grave ofAbu Hanifawhere there is a cell and a mosque above it. The Sultan of Baghdad,Abu Said Bahadur Khan,was a Tatar king who embraced Islam.[33]

In its early years, the city was known as a deliberate reminder of an expression in theQur'an,when it refers toParadise.[34]It took four years to build (764–768). Mansur assembled engineers, surveyors, and art constructionists from around the world to come together and draw up plans for the city. Over 100,000 construction workers came to survey the plans; many were distributed salaries to start the building of the city.[35]July was chosen as the starting time because twoastrologers,Naubakht AhvaziandMashallah,believed that the city should be built under the sign of thelion,Leo.[36]Leo is associated with fire and symbolizes productivity, pride, and expansion and Leo's connection symbolically to Mithra.[citation needed]

The bricks used to make the city were 18 in (460 mm) on all four sides.Abu Hanifahwas the counter[clarification needed]of the bricks and he developed a canal, which brought water to the work site for both human consumption and the manufacture of the bricks. Marble was also used to make buildings throughout the city, and marble steps led down to the river's edge.[citation needed]

TheRound City of Baghdadbetween 767 and 912 AD
Baghdad Museumis a localhistory museum.It features 70 scenes from different periods using lifesize models presenting Baghdad life

The basic framework of the city consists of two large semicircles about 19 km (12 mi) in diameter. The inner city connecting them was designed as a circle about 2 km (1.2 mi) in diameter, leading it to be known as the "Round City". The original design shows a single ring of residential and commercial structures along the inside of the city walls, but the final construction added another ring inside the first.[37]Within the city there were many parks, gardens, villas, and promenades.[38]There was a large sanitation department, many fountains and public baths, and unlike contemporaryEuropeancities at the time, streets were frequently washed free of debris and trash.[39]In fact, by the time of Harun al-Rashid, Baghdad had a few thousandhammams.These baths increased public hygiene and served as a way for the religious to perform ablutions as prescribed by Islam. Moreover, entry fees were usually so low that almost everyone could afford them.[40]In the center of the city lay themosque,as well as headquarters for guards. The purpose or use of the remaining space in the center is unknown. The circular design of the city was a direct reflection of the traditional Persian Sasanianurban design.The Sasanian city ofGurinFars,built 500 years before Baghdad, is nearly identical in its general circular design, radiating avenues, and the government buildings and temples at the center of the city. This style of urban planning contrasted with AncientGreekandRomanurban planning, in which cities are designed as squares or rectangles with streets intersecting each other at right angles.

Baghdad was a hectic city during the day and had many attractions at night. There were cabarets and taverns, halls for backgammon and chess, live plays, concerts, and acrobats. On street corners, storytellers engaged crowds with tales such as those later told in Arabian Nights.[40]Storytelling became a profession called "al-Qaskhun"which survived until the modern era.[41]

Contemporary sketch of Baghdad published byCarsten Niebuhrin 1778

The four surrounding walls of Baghdad were namedKufa,Basra,Khurasan,andSyria;named becausetheir gatespointed in the directions of these destinations. The distance between these gates was a little less than 2.4 km (1.5 mi). Each gate had double doors that were made of iron; the doors were so heavy it took several men to open and close them. The wall itself was about 44 m thick at the base and about 12 m thick at the top. Also, the wall was 30 m high, which includedmerlons,a solid part of an embattled parapet usually pierced byembrasures.This wall was surrounded by another wall with a thickness of 50 m. The second wall had towers and rounded merlons, which surrounded the towers. This outer wall was protected by a solidglacis,which is made out of bricks andquicklime.Beyond the outer wall was a water-filled moat.[citation needed]

The Golden Gate Palace, the residence of the caliph and his family, was in the heart of Baghdad, in the central square. In the central part of the building, there was a green dome that was 39m high. Surrounding the palace was anesplanade,a waterside building, in which only the caliph could come riding on horseback. In addition, the palace was near other mansions and officer's residences. Near the Gate of Syria, a building served as the home for the guards. It was made of brick and marble. The palace governor lived in the latter part of the building and the commander of the guards in the front. In 813, after the death of caliphAl-Amin,the palace was no longer used as the home for the caliph and his family.[42]The roundness points to the fact that it was based onArabic script.[43][44]The two designers who were hired byAl-Mansurto plan the city's design wereNaubakht,a Zoroastrian who also determined that the date of the foundation of the city would be astrologically auspicious, andMashallah,a Jew fromKhorasan,Iran.[45]

Center of learning (8th–9th centuries)

[edit]
Courtyard ofMustansiriyamadrasa,established in 1227, was one of the oldest universities in the world. Its building survived theMongol invasionof 1258. The modernMustansiriyah Universitywas established in 1963.

Within a generation of its founding, Baghdad became a hub oflearningandcommerce.The city flourished into an unrivaled intellectual center ofscience,medicine,philosophy,andeducation,especially with theAbbasid translation movementbegan under the second caliphAl-Mansurand thrived under the seventh caliphAl-Ma'mun.[46]Baytul-Hikmahor the "House of Wisdom" was among the most well known academies,[47]and had the largest selection of books in the world by the middle of the 9th century.[citation needed]Notable scholars based in Baghdad during this time include translatorHunayn ibn Ishaq,mathematicianal-Khwarizmi,and philosopherAl-Kindi.[47]Although Arabic was used as the international language of science, the scholarship involved not only Arabs, but alsoPersians,Syriacs,[48]Nestorians,Jews,Arab Christians,[49][50]and people from other ethnic and religious groups native to the region.[51][52][53][54][55]These are considered among the fundamental elements that contributed to the flourishing of scholarship in the Medieval Islamic world.[56][57][58]Baghdad was also a significant center of Islamic religious learning, withAl-Jahizcontributing to the formation ofMu'tazilitheology, as well asAl-Tabariculminating in the scholarship on theQuranic exegesis.[46]Baghdad is likely to have been thelargest city in the worldfrom shortly after its foundation until the 930s, when it tied withCórdoba.[59]Several estimates suggest that the city contained over a million inhabitants at its peak.[60]Many of theOne Thousand and One Nightstales, widely known as theArabian Nights,are set in Baghdad during this period. It would surpass even Constantinople in prosperity and size.[61]

Khan Murjan,built in the 14th century as acaravanserai

Among the notable features of Baghdad during this period were its exceptional libraries. Many of the Abbasid caliphs were patrons of learning and enjoyed collecting both ancient and contemporary literature. Although some of the princes of the previous Umayyad dynasty had begun to gather and translate Greek scientific literature, the Abbasids were the first to foster Greek learning on a large scale. Many of these libraries were private collections intended only for the use of the owners and their immediate friends, but the libraries of the caliphs and other officials soon took on a public or a semi-public character.[62]Four great libraries were established in Baghdad during this period. The earliest was that of the famousAl-Ma'mun,who was caliph from 813 to 833. Another was established bySabur ibn Ardashirin 991 or 993 for the literary men and scholars who frequented his academy.[62]This second library was plundered and burned by the Seljuks only seventy years after it was established. This was a good example of the sort of library built up out of the needs and interests of a literary society.[62]The last two were examples ofmadrasaor theological college libraries. TheNezamiyehwas founded by the PersianNizam al-Mulk,who was vizier of two early Seljuk sultans.[62]It continued to operate even after the coming of the Mongols in 1258. TheMustansiriyahmadrasa,which owned an exceedingly rich library, was founded byAl-Mustansir,the second last Abbasid caliph, who died in 1242.[62]This would prove to be the last great library built by the caliphs of Baghdad.

Stagnation and invasions (10th–16th centuries)

[edit]
Al-Khulafa mosqueretains an Abbasid-era minaret
Zumurrud Khatun Tombin Baghdad (built in 1202 AD)

By the 10th century, the city's population was between 1.2 million[63]and 2 million.[64]Baghdad's early meteoric growth eventually slowed due to troubles within theCaliphate,including relocations of the capital toSamarra(during 808–819 and 836–892), the loss of the western and easternmost provinces, and periods of political domination by theIranianBuwayhids(945–1055) andSeljuk Turks(1055–1135). TheSeljukswere a clan of theOghuz Turksfrom Central Asia that converted to theSunnibranch of Islam. In 1040, they destroyed theGhaznavids,taking over their land and in 1055,Tughril Beg,the leader of the Seljuks, took over Baghdad. The Seljuks expelled theBuyid dynastyof Shiites that had ruled for some time and took over power and control of Baghdad. They ruled asSultansin the name of the Abbasid caliphs (they saw themselves as being part of the Abbasid regime). Tughril Beg saw himself as the protector of the Abbasid Caliphs.[65]

Baghdad was captured in1394,1534,1623and1638.The city has been sieged in812,865,946,1157,1258and in 1393 and 1401 byTamerlane.In 1058, Baghdad was captured by theFatimidsunder the Turkish general Abu'l-Ḥārith Arslān al-Basasiri, an adherent of theIsmailisalong with the 'Uqaylid Quraysh.[66]Not long before the arrival of the Saljuqs in Baghdad, al-Basasiri petitioned to the Fatimid Imam-Caliphal-Mustansirto support him in conquering Baghdad on the Ismaili Imam's behalf. It has recently come to light that the famed Fatimidda'i,al-Mu'ayyad al-Shirazi, had a direct role in supporting al-Basasiri and helped the general to succeed in takingMawṣil,WāsitandKufa.Soon after,[67]by December 1058, a Shi'iadhān(call to prayer) was implemented in Baghdad and akhutbah(sermon) was delivered in the name of the Fatimid Imam-Caliph.[67]Despite his Shi'i inclinations, Al-Basasiri received support from Sunnis and Shi'is alike, for whom opposition to the Saljuq power was a common factor.[68]

Conquest of Baghdadby the Mongols in 1258 CE

On 10 February 1258, Baghdad was captured by theMongolsled byHulegu,a grandson of Chingiz Khan (Genghis Khan), during thesiege of Baghdad.[69]Many quarters were ruined by fire, siege, or looting. The Mongols massacred most of the city's inhabitants, including the caliphAl-Musta'sim,and destroyed large sections of the city. Thecanalsanddykesforming the city'sirrigationsystem were also destroyed. During this time, in Baghdad, Christians and Shia were tolerated, while Sunnis were treated as enemies.[70]The sack of Baghdad put an end to the Abbasid Caliphate.[71]It has been argued that this marked an end to the Islamic Golden Age and served a blow from which Islamic civilization never fully recovered.[72]

Central AsianTurko-Mongol conquerorTimursacked the city and spared almost no one

At this point, Baghdad was ruled by theIlkhanate,a breakaway state of the Mongol Empire, ruling from Iran. In August 1393, Baghdad was occupied by the Central Asian Turkic conquerorTimur( "Tamerlane" ),[73]by marching there in only eight days fromShiraz.SultanAhmad Jalayirfled to Syria, where the Mamluk SultanBarquqprotected him and killed Timur's envoys. Timur left theSarbadarprince Khwaja Mas'ud to govern Baghdad, but hewas driven outwhenAhmad Jalayirreturned.

In 1401, Baghdad was again sacked, by Timur.[74]When his forces took Baghdad, he spared almost no one, and ordered that each of his soldiers bring back two severed human heads.[75]Baghdad became a provincial capital controlled by the MongolJalayirid(1400–1411), TurkicKara Koyunlu(1411–1469), TurkicAk Koyunlu(1469–1508), and the IranianSafavid(1508–1534) dynasties.

Ottoman and mamluks (16th–19th centuries)

[edit]

In 1534, Baghdad wascapturedby theOttoman Empire.Under theOttomans,Baghdad continued into aperiod of decline,partially as a result of the enmity between its rulers andIranianSafavids,which did not accept theSunnicontrol of the city.Between 1623 and 1638,it returned to Iranian rule before falling back into Ottoman hands. Baghdad has suffered severely from visitations of theplagueandcholera,[76]and sometimes two-thirds of its population has been wiped out.[77]The city became part of aneyaletand then avilayet.

For a time, Baghdad had been the largest city in the Middle East. The city saw relative revival in the latter part of the 18th century, underMamlukgovernment. Direct Ottoman rule was reimposed byAli Rıza Pashain 1831. From 1851 to 1852 and from 1861 to 1867, Baghdad was governed, under the Ottoman Empire byMehmed Namık Pasha.[78]TheNuttall Encyclopediareports the 1907 population of Baghdad as 185,000.

Modern era

[edit]
Al-Shabandar Caféin Baghdad, 1923

Baghdad and southern Iraq remained underOttomanrule until 1917, when they were captured by the British duringWorld War I.In 1920, Baghdad became the capital of theBritish Mandate of Mesopotamia,with several architectural and planning projects commissioned to reinforce this administration.[79]After receiving independence in 1932, the city became capital of theKingdom of Iraq.

During this period, the substantial Jewish community (probably exceeding 100,000 people) comprised between a quarter[80]and a third of the city's population.[81]On 1 April 1941, members of the "Golden Square" andRashid Alistageda coup in Baghdad.Rashid Ali installed a pro-Germanand pro-Italiangovernment to replace the pro-British government ofRegentAbd al-Ilah.On 31 May, after the resultingAnglo-Iraqi Warand after Rashid Ali and his government had fled, the Mayor of Baghdad surrendered to British and Commonwealth forces. On 1–2 June, during the ensuingpower vacuum,Jewish residents were attacked following rumors they had aided the British. In what became known as theFarhud,over 180 Jews were killed, 1,000 injured and hundreds of Jewish properties were ransacked.[82][83]Between 300 and 400 non-Jewish rioters were killed in the attempt to quell the violence.[84] The city's population grew from an estimated 145,000 in 1900 to 580,000 in 1950. On 14 July 1958, members of theIraqi Army,underAbd al-Karim Qasim,staged a coup to topple the Kingdom of Iraq.KingFaisal II,former Prime MinisterNuri al-Said,former Regent Prince'Abd al-Ilah,members of the royal family, and others were brutally killed during the coup. Many of the victim's bodies were then dragged through the streets of Baghdad.[citation needed] During the 1970s, Baghdad experienced a period of prosperity and growth because of a sharp increase in theprice of petroleum,Iraq's main export. Newinfrastructureincluding modern sewerage, water, and highway facilities were built during this period. The masterplans of the city (1967, 1973) were delivered by the Polish planning office Miastoprojekt-Kraków, mediated by Polservice.[85]However, theIran–Iraq Warof the 1980s was a difficult time for the city, as money was diverted bySaddam Husseinto thearmyand thousands of residents were killed. Iran launched a number of missile attacks against Baghdad in retaliation for Saddam Hussein's continuous bombardments of Tehran's residential districts.

Baghdad in 2022

In 1991 and 2003, theGulf Warand theUS invasion of Iraqcausedsignificant damageto Baghdad's transportation, power, and sanitary infrastructure as theUS-led coalition forceslaunched massive aerial assaults in the city in the two wars. Also in 2003, a minor riot in the city (which took place on 21 July) caused some disturbance in the population. The historic "Assyrian Quarter" of the city,Dora,which boasted a population of 150,000Assyriansin 2003, made up over 3% of the capital's Assyrian population then. The community has been subject tokidnappings,death threats,vandalism, andhouse burningsbyal-Qaedaand otherinsurgentgroups. As of the end of 2014, only 1,500 Assyrians remained in Dora.[86]TheIraq Wartook place from 2003 to 2011, but anIslamistinsurgencylasted until 2013. It was followed byanother warfrom 2013 to 2017 and alow-levelinsurgency from 2017, which includedsuicide bombingsinJanuary 2018andJanuary 2021.[87]Priceless collection of artifacts in theNational Museum of Iraqwas looted by Iraqi citizens during the 2003 US-led invasion. Thousands of ancient manuscripts in theNational Librarywere destroyed. In December 2015, Baghdad was selected byUNESCOas the first Arab city of the center of literary creativity.[88]Baghdad gained significance on 3 January 2020, when Iranian major generalQasem Soleimaniwaskilled in a U.S. drone strikeatBaghdad International Airport.

Geography

[edit]

The city is located on a vast plain bisected by theTigrisriver. The Tigris splits Baghdad in half, with the eastern half being called "Risafa"and the Western half known as"Karkh".The land on which the city is built is almost entirely flat and low-lying, being ofquaternaryalluvialorigin due to the periodic large floods which have occurred on the river.

Panoramic view of the Tigris as it flows through Baghdad

Climate

[edit]

Baghdad has ahot desert climate(KöppenBWh), featuring extremely hot, prolonged, dry summers and mild to cool, slightly wet, short winters. In the summer, from June through August, the average maximum temperature is as high as 44 °C (111 °F) and accompanied by sunshine. Rainfall has been recorded on fewer than half a dozen occasions at this time of year and has never exceeded 1 mm (0.04 in).[89]Even at night, temperatures in summer are seldom below 24 °C (75 °F). Baghdad's record highest temperature of 51.8 °C (125.2 °F) was reached on 28 July 2020.[90][91]Thehumidityis typically under 50% in summer due to Baghdad's distance from the marshy southern Iraq and the coasts ofPersian Gulf,anddust stormsfrom the deserts to the west are a normal occurrence during the summer.

Winter temperatures are typical ofhot desert climates.From December through February, Baghdad has maximum temperatures averaging 16 to 19 °C (61 to 66 °F), though highs above 21 °C (70 °F) are not unheard of. Lows below freezing occur a couple of times per year on average.[92]

Annual rainfall, almost entirely confined to the period from November through March, averages approximately 150 mm (5.91 in), but has been as high as 338 mm (13.31 in) and as low as 37 mm (1.46 in).[89]On 11 January 2008, light snow fell across Baghdad for the first time in 100 years.[93]Snowfall was again reported on 11 February 2020, with accumulations across the city.[94]

Climate data for Baghdad (1991-2020)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 24.8
(76.6)
28.2
(82.8)
36.6
(97.9)
42.0
(107.6)
46.7
(116.1)
49.6
(121.3)
51.8
(125.2)
50.0
(122.0)
47.7
(117.9)
40.2
(104.4)
35.6
(96.1)
25.3
(77.5)
51.8
(125.2)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 16.2
(61.2)
19.3
(66.7)
24.5
(76.1)
30.5
(86.9)
37.1
(98.8)
42.2
(108.0)
44.7
(112.5)
44.5
(112.1)
40.3
(104.5)
34.0
(93.2)
23.9
(75.0)
18.0
(64.4)
30.6
(87.1)
Daily mean °C (°F) 10.0
(50.0)
12.8
(55.0)
17.5
(63.5)
23.4
(74.1)
29.5
(85.1)
33.4
(92.1)
35.8
(96.4)
35.3
(95.5)
31.2
(88.2)
25.1
(77.2)
16.5
(61.7)
11.7
(53.1)
23.5
(74.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 4.7
(40.5)
6.5
(43.7)
10.5
(50.9)
15.7
(60.3)
21.1
(70.0)
24.9
(76.8)
26.9
(80.4)
26.2
(79.2)
22.2
(72.0)
17.2
(63.0)
10.2
(50.4)
6.0
(42.8)
14.9
(58.8)
Record low °C (°F) −11.0
(12.2)
−10.0
(14.0)
−5.5
(22.1)
−0.6
(30.9)
8.3
(46.9)
14.6
(58.3)
22.4
(72.3)
20.6
(69.1)
15.3
(59.5)
6.2
(43.2)
−1.5
(29.3)
−8.7
(16.3)
−11.0
(12.2)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 24.6
(0.97)
16.6
(0.65)
15.7
(0.62)
16.2
(0.64)
3.3
(0.13)
0
(0)
0
(0)
0
(0)
0.1
(0.00)
7.6
(0.30)
23.6
(0.93)
17.0
(0.67)
124.7
(4.91)
Average precipitation days 5 5 6 4 2 0 0 0 0 1 5 6 34
Averagerelative humidity(%) 69.1 58.9 48.7 41.1 31.4 24.4 23.8 25.7 30.9 41.6 57.9 68.0 43.5
Mean monthlysunshine hours 192.2 203.4 244.9 255.0 300.7 348.0 347.2 353.4 315.0 272.8 213.0 195.3 3,240.9
Averageultraviolet index 3 4 6 8 10 11 11 10 8 6 4 3 7
Source 1:WMO(precipitation days 1976-2008)[95][96]
Source 2: Climate & Temperature[97][98]

Governance

[edit]
Baghdad as seen from theInternational Space Station

Administratively, Baghdad Governorate is divided intodistrictswhich are further divided intosub-districts.Municipally, the governorate is divided into 9 municipalities, which have responsibility for local issues. Regional services, however, are coordinated and carried out by a mayor who oversees the municipalities. The governorate council is responsible for the governorate-wide policy. These official subdivisions of the city served as administrative centers for the delivery of municipal services but until 2003 had no political function. Beginning in April 2003, the U.S. controlledCoalition Provisional Authority(CPA) began the process of creating new functions for these. The process initially focused on the election of neighborhood councils in the official neighborhoods, elected by neighborhood caucuses. The CPA convened a series of meetings in each neighborhood to explain local government, to describe the caucus election process and to encourage participants to spread the word and bring friends, relatives and neighbors to subsequent meetings. Each neighborhood process ultimately ended with a final meeting where candidates for the new neighborhood councils identified themselves and asked their neighbors to vote for them. Once all 88 (later increased to 89) neighborhood councils were in place, each neighborhood council elected representatives from among their members to serve on one of the city's nine district councils. The number of neighborhood representatives on a district council is based upon the neighborhood's population. The next step was to have each of the nine district councils elect representatives from their membership to serve on the 37 member Baghdad City Council. This three tier system of local government connected the people of Baghdad to the central government through their representatives from the neighborhood, through the district, and up to the city council. The same process was used to provide representative councils for the other communities in Baghdad Province outside of the city itself. There, local councils were elected from 20 neighborhoods (Nahia) and these councils elected representatives from their members to serve on six district councils (Qada). As within the city, the district councils then elected representatives from among their members to serve on the 35 member Baghdad Regional Council. The first step in the establishment of the system of local government for Baghdad Province was the election of the Baghdad Provincial Council. As before, the representatives to the Provincial Council were elected by their peers from the lower councils in numbers proportional to the population of the districts they represent. The 41 member Provincial Council took office in February 2004 and served until national elections held in January 2005, when a new Provincial Council was elected. This system of 127 separate councils may seem overly cumbersome; however, Baghdad Province is home to approximately seven million people. At the lowest level, the neighborhood councils, each council represents an average of 75,000 people. The nine District Advisory Councils (DAC) are as follows:[99]

The nine districts are subdivided into 89 smaller neighborhoods which may make up sectors of any of the districts above. The following is aselection(rather than a complete list) of these neighborhoods:

Notable streets

[edit]
Abu Nuwas Street

Demographics

[edit]

Ethnicity

[edit]

The vast majority of Baghdad's population are IraqiArabs.[108]Minority ethnic groups includeFeyli Kurds,Turkmen,Assyrian/Chaldean/SyriacsandArmenians.[109][110]The city was also home to a largeJewishcommunity and regularly visited bySikhpilgrims.[109]Baghdad is home to diverse ethnic and religious groups with anArabmajority, as well asKurds,Turkmens,Assyrians,Yazidis,Shabakis,ArmeniansandMandaeans.

Religion

[edit]

Baghdad's population was estimated at 7.22 million in 2015. The city historically has a predominantlySunnipopulation, but by the early 21st century around 52% of the city's population wereIraqi Shi'ites.At the beginning of the 21st century, some 1.5 million people migrated to Baghdad. Sunni Muslims make up 29–34% of Iraq's population and they are still a majority in west and north Iraq. As early as 2003, about 20 percent of the population of the city was the result of mixed marriages between Shi'ites and Sunnis.[111]Following thecivil warbetween the Sunni and Shia militia groups during theU.S. occupation of Iraq,the population of Sunnis significantly decreased as they were pushed out of many neighborhoods. The2013–2017 warfollowing theIslamic State's invasion in 2014caused hundreds of thousands of Iraqi internally displaced people to flee to the city.[109]

The majority of the citizens are Muslims with minorities ofChristians,YezidisandMandeansalso present. There are many religious centers distributed around the city including mosques, churches and Mashkhannas cultic huts. Masjid Al-Kadhimain is a shrine that is located in theKādhimayn suburbof Baghdad. It contains the tombs of the seventh and ninthTwelverShi'ite Imams,Musa al-KadhimandMuhammad at-Taqirespectively, upon whom the title ofKādhimayn( "Two who swallow their anger" ) was bestowed.[112][113][114]Many Shi'ites travel to the mosque from far away places to commemorate those imams.

Prior to the 2003 invasion by the United States, Baghdad was home to tiny Jewish community of 450.[115]It started declining since 1940s, following establishment of Israel. The Jews of Baghdad faced restrictions until 1980s, when Saddam took power and granted freedom and protection to them. The iraqi Jewish population decline after the 2003–2011 war and the subsequent 2013–2017 war.[116]In theKadhimiyadistrict of Baghdad, was the house ofBaháʼu'lláh,(Prophet Founder of theBaha'i Faith) also known as the "Most Great House" (Bayt-i-Aʻzam) and the "House of God," whereBaháʼu'lláhmostly resided from 1853 to 1863. It is considered a holy place and aplace of pilgrimage by Baha'i'saccording to their "Most Holy Book".[117]On 23 June 2013, the house was destroyed under unclear circumstances.[118]

Economy

[edit]
Al-Ma'mun's Telecommunication Center in downtown Baghdad

Baghdad accounts for 22.2% of Iraq's population and 40% of the country's gross domestic product (PPP). Most of the economic contribution of Iraq geographically is from Baghdad. During the Islamic Golden Age, Baghdad emerged as a leading center of trade and commerce.[119]In the early Ba'athist period, Baghdad became a bustling metropolitan city in the Middle East and the Arab world. The Baghdad Stock Exchange (BSE) was opened in 1992 under the government of Saddam Hussein, to facilitate financial activities of the country.[120]

Al Rashid Hotel in Downtown Baghdad

Baghdad was once one of the main destinations in the country and the region with a wealth of cultural attractions.[121]Tourism has diminished since theIraq-Iran warand later during theUS invasion,but in recent years Baghdad has become a main tourist destination although it is still facing challenges.[122]There are numerous historic, scientific and artistic museums in Baghdad which include,Iraq Museum,Baghdadi Museum,Natural History Museum and several others.[123][124]Baghdad is known for its famousMutanabbi streetwhich is well established for bookselling and has often been referred to as the heart and soul of the Baghdad literary and intellectual community.[125]The annual International Book Fair in Baghdad is well known to the international publishing world as a promising publishing event in the region after years of instability.[125]

View of downtown Baghdad, March 2017
Inside Baghdad South Power Station in 2003

Iraqi companies includingBaghTel,Fly Baghdad,Iraq National Oil Company,Trade Bank of IraqandCentral Bank of Iraqhave established their headquarters in Baghdad.[126][127]Multinational corporations —First Abu Dhabi Bank,SalamAir,Robert Bosch GmbH,HoneywellandSaudi National Bankoperates regional headquarters in the city.[128][129][130]Subsequently the city have produced a wide variety of consumer and industrial goods, including processed foods and beverages, tobacco, textiles, clothes, leather goods, wood products, furniture, paper and printed material, bricks and cement, chemicals, plastics, electrical equipment, and metal and nonmetallic products.[131]

MostIraqi reconstructionefforts have been devoted to the restoration and repair of badly damaged urban infrastructure. More visible efforts at reconstruction through private development, like architect and urban designerHisham N. Ashkouri'sBaghdad Renaissance Planand theSindbad Hotel Complex and Conference Centerhave also been made.[132]A plan was proposed by a Government agency to rebuild a tourist island in 2008.[133]Investors were sought to develop a "romantic island" on the River Tigris that was once a popular honeymoon spot for newlyweds. The project would include a six-star hotel, spa, an 18-hole golf course and a country club. In addition, the go-ahead has been given to build numerous architecturally unique skyscrapers along the Tigris that would develop the city's financial center in Kadhehemiah.[134]

In late 2009, a construction plan was proposed to rebuild the heart of Baghdad, but the plan was never realized because corruption was involved in it.[135]The Baghdad EyeFerris wheel,proposed in August 2008,[134][136][137][138][139]was installed at the Al-Zawraa Park in March 2011.[140]In May 2010, a new large scale residential and commercial project called Baghdad Gate was announced.[141][142]In August 2010,Iraqi-BritisharchitectZaha Hadid,was appointed to design a new headquarters for the Central Bank in Baghdad. Initial talks about the project were held inIstanbul,Turkey,on 14 August 2010, in the presence of the bank governorSinan al-Shabibi.On 2 February 2012, Hadid joinedSinan al-Shabibiat a ceremony inLondonto sign the agreement between the bank andher firmfor the design stages of the new building. The construction was postponed in 2015 due to economical problems, but started again in 2019.

Transport

[edit]

Baghdad lacks substantial public transportation, andtaxisare the primary means of transportation in the city. Roads in Baghdad are noted to be especially congested.[143]

Iraqi Airways,the national airline of Iraq, has its headquarters on the grounds ofBaghdad International Airportin Baghdad.[144]It was opened in 1982 by Saddam Hussein and was named as "Saddam International Airport". The airport's name was changed into current name when it came under control of the coalition forces during the country's invasion in 2003.

Proposed elevated metro

[edit]

The Baghdad Metro is a proposed metro system repeatedly proposed since the reign of Saddam Hussein. The current proposal for the metro, this time in the form of an elevated railway to ease congestion in the city center, is set to begin construction in 2023 and per Iraqi officials is presumed to be primarily built byHyundaiandAlstom.The first phase is predicted to have 14 stations.[145]

Education

[edit]

TheHouse of Wisdomwas a major academy and public center in Baghdad. TheMustansiriya Madrasawas established in 1227 by the Abbasid Caliph al-Mustansir. The name was changed toal-Mustansiriya Universityin 1963. TheUniversity of Baghdadis the largest university in Iraq and the second largest in the Arab world. Prior to the Gulf War, multipleinternational schoolsoperated in Baghdad, including:

  • École française de Bagdad[146]
  • Deutsche Schule Bagdad[147]
  • Baghdad Japanese School (バグダッド nhật bổn nhân học giáo ), anihonjin gakko[148]

Universities

[edit]

Culture

[edit]
TheIraqi National Symphony Orchestraperforming in July 2007
The National Ballet performing in 2007
Chaldean CatholicCathedral of Our Lady of Sorrows
The Baghdad Convention Center

Baghdad has always played a significant role in the broaderArab cultural sphere,contributing several significant writers, musicians and visual artists. FamousArabpoets and singers such asNizar Qabbani,Umm Kulthum,Fairuz,Salah Al-Hamdani,Ilham al-Madfaiand others have performed for the city. The dialect ofArabic spoken in Baghdadtoday differs from that of other large urban centers in Iraq, having features more characteristic of nomadic Arabic dialects (Versteegh,The Arabic Language). It is possible that this was caused by the repopulating of the city with rural residents after the multiple sackings of the lateMiddle Ages.For poetry written about Baghdad, seeReuven Snir(ed.),Baghdad: The City in Verse(Harvard, 2013).[149]Baghdad joined theUNESCO Creative Cities Networkas a City of Literature in December 2015.[150]

Some of the important cultural institutions in the city include theNational Theater,which was looted during the2003 invasion of Iraq,but efforts are underway to restore the theater.[151]The live theater industry received a boost during the 1990s, when UNsanctionslimited the import of foreign films. As many as 30 movie theaters were reported to have been converted to live stages, producing a wide range ofcomediesand dramatic productions.[152]Institutions offering cultural education in Baghdad includeThe Music and Ballet School of Baghdadand the Institute of Fine Arts Baghdad. TheIraqi National Symphony Orchestrais a government funded symphony orchestra in Baghdad. The INSO plays primarily classical European music, as well as original compositions based on Iraqi and Arab instruments and music. Baghdad is also home to a number of museums which housedartifactsand relics ofancient civilization;many of these were stolen, and the museums looted, during the widespread chaos immediately after United States forces entered the city.

DuringUS occupation of Iraq,AFN Iraq( "Freedom Radio" ) broadcast news and entertainment within Baghdad, among other locations. There is also a private radio station called "Dijlah" (named after the Arabic word for the Tigris River) that was created in 2004 as Iraq's first independent talk radio station. Radio Dijlah offices, in theJamianeighborhood of Baghdad, have been attacked on several occasions.[153]

Sights of interest

[edit]
  • TheNational Museum of Iraqwhose collection of artifacts was looted during the 2003 US invasion, and the iconic Hands of Victory arches. Multiple Iraqi parties are in discussions as to whether the arches should remain as historical monuments or be dismantled. Thousands of ancient manuscripts in theNational Librarywere destroyed underSaddam's command.
  • Mutanabbi Streetis located near the old quarter of Baghdad; at Al-Rasheed Street. It is the historic center of Baghdadi book-selling, a street filled with bookstores and outdoor book stalls. It was named after the 10th-century classical Iraqi poetAl-Mutanabbi.[154]This street is well established for bookselling and has often been referred to as the heart and soul of the Baghdad literacy and intellectual community.
  • Baghdad Zooused to be the largestzoological parkin theMiddle East.Within eight days following the 2003 invasion, however, only 35 of the 650 animals in the facility survived. This was a result of theft of some animals for human food, and starvation of caged animals that had no food. ConservationistLawrence Anthonyand some of the zoo keepers cared for the animals and fed the carnivores with donkeys they had bought locally.[155][156]EventuallyPaul Bremer,Director of theCoalition Provisional Authorityin Iraq after the invasion, ordered protection for the zoo and enlisted U.S. engineers to help reopen the facility.[155]
  • Grand Festivities Squareis the main square where public celebrations are held and is also the home to three important monuments commemorating Iraqi's fallen soldiers and victories in war; namely Al-Shaheed Monument, theVictory Archand theUnknown Soldier's Monument.[157]
  • Al-Shaheed Monument,also known as the Martyr's Memorial, is a monument dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers who died in theIran–Iraq War.However, now it is generally considered by Iraqis to be for all of the martyrs of Iraq, especially those allied with Iran and Syria fighting ISIS, not just of the Iran–Iraq War. The monument was opened in 1983, and was designed by the Iraqi architect Saman Kamal and the Iraqi sculptor and artistIsmail Fatah Al Turk.During the 1970s and 1980s,Saddam Hussein's government spent a lot of money on new monuments, which included the al-Shaheed Monument.[citation needed]
Qushla Square
  • Qushlaor Qishla is a public square and the historical complex located inal-Rusafaneighborhood at the riverbank ofTigris.Qushla and its surroundings is where the historical features and cultural capitals of Baghdad are concentrated, from theMutanabbi Street,Abbasid-era palace and bridges, Ottoman-era mosques to the Mustansariyah Madrasa. The square developed during the Ottoman era as a military barracks. Today, it is a place where the citizens of Baghdad find leisure such as reading poetry in gazebos.[158]It is characterized by the iconic clock tower which was donated byGeorge V.The entire area is submitted to theUNESCOWorld Heritage SiteTentative list.[159]
  • A'dhamiyyahis a predominantly Sunni area with aMosquethat is associated with the Sunni Imam Abu Hanifa. The name ofAl-Aʿẓamiyyahis derived from Abu Hanifa's title,al-Imām al-Aʿẓam(the Great Imam).[160][161]
  • Firdos Squareis a public open space in Baghdad and the location of two of the best-known hotels, the Palestine Hotel and the Sheraton Ishtar, which are both also the tallest buildings in Baghdad.[162]The square was the site of the statue of Saddam Hussein that was pulled down by U.S.-led coalition forces in a widely televised event during the 2003 invasion of Iraq.
  • Al-Rasheed Streetis one of the most significant landmarks in Baghdad. Located in al-Rusafa area, the street was an artistic, intellectual and cultural center for many Baghdadis. It also included many prominent theaters and nightclubs such as the Crescent Theatre where Egyptian SingerUmm Kulthumsang during her visit in 1932 as well as the Chakmakji Company that recorded the music of various Arab singers.[163]The street also contains famous and well-known landmarks including the ancientHaydar-Khana Mosqueas well as numerous well-known cafés such asal-Zahawi Caféand theBrazilian Café.[164][165]The Street is also notable for its architecture and aesthetic which was inspired byRenaissance architectureand also includes the famous Iraqishanasheel.[166]

Sport

[edit]

Baghdad is home to some of the most successfulfootball (soccer)teams in Iraq, the biggest beingAl-Shorta(Police),Al-Quwa Al-Jawiya(Air Force),Al-Zawraa,andAl-Talaba(Students). The largest stadium in Baghdad isAl-Shaab Stadium,which was opened in 1966. In recent years, the capital has seen the building of several football stadiums which are meant be opened in near future. The city has also had a strong tradition ofhorse racingever sinceWorld War I,known to Baghdadis simply as 'Races'. There are reports of pressures by the Islamists to stop this tradition due to the associated gambling.[167]

Club Founded League
Al-Quwa Al-Jawiya SC 1931 Iraq Stars League
Al-Shorta SC 1932 Iraq Stars League
Al-Zawraa SC 1969 Iraq Stars League
Al-Talaba SC 1969 Iraq Stars League

Twin towns – sister cities

[edit]

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^Estimates of total population differ substantially. The CIA World Factbook estimated the 2020 population of Baghdad at 7,144,000[4]TheEncyclopedia Britannicaestimated the 2005 population at 5,904,000;[5]the2006 Lancet Reportstates a population of 7,216,050;[6]Mongabay gives a figure of 6,492,200 as of 2002.[7]

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Further reading

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Articles

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Books

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  • Caecilia Pieri, Bagdad, la construction d'une capitale moderne, 1914–1960, Presses de l'Ifpo, 2015, 440 pages, about 800 illustrations (ISBN 978-2-35159-399-8) (ISSN 2225-7578).
  • Mina Marefat, Caecilia Pieri, Gilles Ragot, Le Corbusier's Gymnasium in Bagdad, 2014, Éditions du patrimoine, collection Regards (French and English versions), Presses de l'Ifpo (Arabic version) (ISBN 2757703013).
  • Pieri, Caecilia (2011).Baghdad Arts Deco: Architectural Brickwork, 1920–1950(1st ed.). The American University in Cairo Press. p. 160.ISBN978-977-416-356-2.
  • "Travels in Asia and Africa 1325-135" by Ibn Battuta.
  • "Gertrude Bell:The Arabian Diaries, 1913–1914. "by Bell Gertrude Lowthian, and O'Brien, Rosemary.
  • "Historic Cities of the Islamic World". by Bosworth, Clifford Edmund.
  • "Ottoman administration of Iraq, 1890–1908." by Cetinsaya, Gokhan.
  • "Naked in Baghdad." by Garrels, Anne, and Lawrence, Vint.
  • "A memoir of Major-General Sir Henry Creswicke Rawlinson." by Rawlinson, George.
  • Stanek, Łukasz (2020).Architecture in Global Socialism: Eastern Europe, West Africa, and the Middle East in the Cold War.Princeton.ISBN978-0-691-19455-4.
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