Box Hill, Surrey

For other uses, seeBox Hill (disambiguation).

Box Hill
Part of theMole Gap to Reigate EscarpmentSSSI
IUCN categoryIV (habitat/species management area)
Box Hill viewed from the south. Photograph taken from Betchworth Park Golf Course.
Box Hill
Nearest town	Dorking,Surrey,England
Coordinates	51°15′18″N0°18′31″W
Area	11 km2(4.2 sq mi)
Map of Box Hill, showing the areas managed by the National Trust (purple), Surrey Wildlife Trust (turquoise) and Surrey County Council (green). The urban area of Box Hill village is shown in grey.
Highest point
Elevation	224 m (735 ft)
Prominence	49 m (161 ft)
Geography
Parent range	North Downs
OS grid	TQ 178 514
Topo map	OSLandranger187
Geology
Age of rock	Cretaceous and Eocene
Mountain type	Cuesta
Type of rock	ChalkandClay-with-Flints

Box Hillis a summit of theNorth DownsinSurrey,approximately 31 km (19 mi) south-west ofLondon.The hill gets its name from the ancientbox woodlandfound on the steepest west-facing chalk slopes overlooking theRiver Mole.The western part of the hill is owned and managed by theNational Trust,whilst the village of Box Hill lies on higher ground to the east. The highest point is Betchworth Clump at 224 m (735 ft)above OD,although the Salomons Memorial (at 172 metres) overlooking the town ofDorkingis the most popular viewpoint.

Box Hill lies within theSurrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beautyand forms part of theMole Gap to Reigate EscarpmentSite of Special Scientific Interest. The north- and south-facing slopes support an area of chalk downland, noted for its orchids and other rare plant species.The hill provides a habitat for 38 species of butterfly,and has given its name to a species ofsquash bug,now found throughout south-east England.

An estimated 850,000 people visit Box Hill each year.The National Trust visitors' centre provides both a cafeteria and gift shop, andpanoramicviews of the western Weald may be enjoyed from theNorth Downs Way,a long-distance footpath that runs along the south-facingscarp slope.Box Hill featured prominently on the route of the2012 Summer Olympics cyclingroad race events.

Geography

Box Hill, approximately 31 km (19 mi) south-west of central London, stands at the south-eastern corner of the Mole Gap, the valley carved by the River Mole through the North Downs.Its summit, 224 metres (735 ft) aboveOrdnance Datum,is the 12th highest in Surrey.The western boundary of the hill is defined by the River Mole, which has cut a steepcliff,exposing the chalk bedrock.TheVale of Holmesdalelies immediately to the south, below the scarp slope. The northern and eastern boundaries are defined bydry river valleys,which were created during thelast Ice Age.The total area of the hill is approximately 11 square kilometres (4.2 sq mi), of which half is owned by the National Trust.

The village

Box Hill
St Andrew's Church, Box Hill village
Population	1,320 (2019 estimate)
Civil parish	n/a
District	Mole Valley
Shire county	Surrey
Region	South East
Country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	Tadworth
Postcode district	KT20
Dialling code	01306 / 01737
Police	Surrey
Fire	Surrey
Ambulance	South East Coast
UK Parliament	Mole Valley

The village of Box Hill is to the east of the summit and to the west of the Country Park owned by the National Trust. The earliest flint cottages date from the 1800s, although much of the village was constructed in the first half of the 20th century.By 2005 there were more than 800 dwellings, of which over five hundred were mobile homes. An estimated 41% of the community is aged 60 or over.St Andrew's Church, part of theecclesiastical parishof Headley, was consecrated in 1969 and the village hall opened in 1974.The village is not part of a civil parish.

History

Early history

Ancientpollardedbeechtree between the Viewpoint and the Donkey Green.

Two Bronze Ageround barrows,located close to the Salomons Memorial, provide the earliest archaeological evidence of human activity on Box Hill.The larger barrow is 20 m (66 ft) in diameter and 2.2 m (7 ft 3 in) high and, in medieval times, was used as aboundary markerormerefor the parish ofMickleham.Traces of prehistoricfield boundariesare visible on Burford Spur and the lowflintbanks on the steeper and more wooded White Hill may be contemporaneous.

Anancient trackwayalong theNorth Downsescarpment can be dated to around 600–450 BC, but has probably been in existence since theStone Ageand may have crossed theRiver Moleat a ford close to the location of the present day stepping stones.In Victorian times this route was dubbed thePilgrims' Wayand was supposedly followed by visitors to the shrines ofThomas BecketandSwithunatCanterburyandWinchesterrespectively.

Stane Streetwas constructed by theRomansin around 60–70 AD to link London (Londinium) to Chichester (Noviomagus Reginorum) on the south coast of England.The course of the road runs in a southwesterly direction across Mickleham Downs,before turning south to cross theRiver Moleat a ford close to the site of theBurford Bridge Hotel.A hoard of nineRoman coins,including bronzefollesdating from the reigns ofDiocletian,MaximianandConstantius I,was discovered on Box Hill close to Broadwood's Folly in 1979.

Medieval and early modern periods

Thepillow moundsto the north-east of the Salomons Memorial are thought to date from the medieval period and were probably constructed as artificialwarrensfor rabbits. High Ashurst warren is recorded as remaining in use until the late 18th century.A second warren was probably situated close to Warren Farm in the Headley Valley and it has been speculated that the present farmhouse was originally the warrener's cottage.

Box and yew trees growing on the steep, western slope of Box Hill, above the River Mole.

The origin of thebox treesgrowing on the hill is disputed. Several sources from the late 18th century suggest that they were planted byThomas Howard, 21st Earl of Arundelduring the reign ofCharles I.However Howard never owned the Box Hill estateand older medieval documents make reference to local individuals with surnames includingAtteboxe,de la BoxeandBuxeto,suggesting that the trees were already common in the area by the 13th century.The diaristJohn Evelynrecords a visit to the hill in August 1655 to view "those natural bowers, cabinets and shady walks in the box copses."

Theclose grainof the box wood made it highly prized for itstimberfor carving and there are numerous accounts of the sale of trees from the hill throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.At the end of the eighteenth century, imports from Portugal reduced the market value of box wood and commercial exploitation of timber from Box Hill appears to have ended with a final sale in 1797.

Agriculture

Despite the commercial importance of timber in theearly modern period,the woodland on Box Hill was much less extensive at the start of the 19th century than at the start of the 21st. The 1801BetchworthEstate Map shows that there was a network of irregularly shaped fields on the top of the hill, where the more fertileclay-with-flintsoverlays the chalk. These ‘clearings’ (each up to 1 hectare (2.5 acres)) were cultivated forarable crops,but by the 1830schanges in farming practicesmeant that they were too small to be worked economically and many were over-planted withbeech(with someoak). These deciduous plantations may be distinguished from older yew- and box-dominated woodland on the hill by the uniform age of the trees.

Remnants of a few of these arable fields still exist, notably at the head of Juniper Bottom and around the old Box Hill Fort and Swiss Cottage. The Donkey Green (immediately north of the Salomons Memorial) was used as a cricket ground in the 1850s. It acquired its current name inEdwardian times,whendonkey rideswere offered to younger day trippers, although this practice had ceased byWorld War II.

The soil covering the north- and south-facing chalk slopes of the hill is too thin and insufficiently fertile to allow cultivation. These areas are indicated assheep-walkon the 1801 map and were used aspasture,especially during the winter months when lower ground was too wet for productive grazing.Grazingof these slopes has continued into the 21st century and a herd ofBelted Gallowaycattle is used by both Surrey Wildlife Trust and the National Trust to control growth of grasses, thereby allowing wild flowers (including orchids) to flourish.

Common gorsein bloom on Headley Heath.

Throughout its history, Headley Heath has been used for grazing and local villagers have collectedheather,gorseandturffor bedding and making fires.Although mostRights of Commonconnected with the heath wereabolished by Act of Parliament in 1965,the inhabitants of one nearby cottage still have the right to grazegeese.

Ownership and public access

The hill was purchased byThomas Hope,shortly before his death in 1831. (Hope was the owner ofThe Deepdene,the mansion to the east ofDorking.) TheMickleham ParishRecords credit Hope's widow, Louisa de la Poer Beresford (whom he had married six years previously), with allowing "free access to the beauties of this hill",however day-trippers had been arriving in significant numbers for more than a century before that.

Developments in local transport infrastructure over the course of the 18th and 19th centuries, enabled increasing numbers to visit the area. Following the completion of theturnpike roadbetweenLeatherheadandDorkingin 1750,stagecoachesstopped regularly at theBurford Bridge Hotel.As late as 1879, a daily coach ran non-stop to Box Hill fromPiccadillywith a journey time of 2.5 hours.

TheSouth Eastern Railwayopenedthe first railway station in Dorkingin 1849, followed by theLondon, Brighton and South Coast Railway(LBSCR), which openedthe station in the village of Westhumblein 1867.The LBSCR ran dedicated excursion trains to Box Hill on Bank Holiday weekends and over 1300 day-trippers were recorded arriving at Westhumble station on 6 August 1883.

The Salomons Memorial commemorates the gift of 95 ha (230 acres) of land on Box Hill to the National Trust in 1914.

The proposals for aland value taxoutlined by ChancellorDavid Lloyd Georgein hisPeople's Budgetof 1909 prompted the trustees of the Deepdene estate to start to sell the unimproved land on the western side of Box Hill.As a result of negotiations led bySir Robert Hunter,Leopold SalomonsofNorbury Parkpurchased 95 ha (230 acres) of Box Hill in 1913 for £16,000. The following year, Salomons donated the land, which included the Old Fort, Swiss Cottage and the western flank of the hill above the River Mole, to the National Trust.

Two further purchases of 28 ha (69 acres) and 102 ha (250 acres) transferred Lodge Hill and Ashurst Rough to National Trust ownership in 1921 and 1923.Following World War II, National Trust acquired Headley Heath, a geologically distinct area of heathland which lies to the north-east of Box Hill village, the majority of which was given as a single donation in 1946.The Trust continued to purchase land, and by the mid-1980s the estate comprised some 500 ha (1,200 acres).The most recent additions to the Box Hill Estate include farmland at Westhumble and at the foot of the hill, purchased in the late 1990s.

Military history

Box Hill Fort, constructed in 1899. Note the earthblast bank(left) which protects the south west face of the flat-roofed main building (right).

In the latter half of the 19th century, growing public concern over the ability of the British armed forces to repel an invasion (stoked, in part, by the serialisation ofGeorge Tomkyns Chesney's1871 novellaThe Battle of Dorking), prompted the government to announce the construction of thirteen fortified mobilisation centres, collectively known as theLondon Defence Positions.Two centres were built on Box Hill, approximately 2.5 km (1.6 mi) apart: one close to the present National Trust visitor centre (commonly called Box Hill Fort)and the other close to the summit of the hill, to the south of the present day Box Hill village (known as Betchworth Fort).

The sites were purchased from the trustees of the Hope estate by theMinistry of Defencein 1891, and construction began in 1899.The two centres were laid out in the form ofinfantry redoubtstypical of the period, but also includedmagazines(partially below ground level) for the storage ofshellsandcartridges.(In common with the majority of the eleven other mobilisation centres, the forts were designed for the use of the infantry only and the stored ammunition was intended for the use ofmobile field artillerywhich would be deployed nearby as required.)The main flat-roofed buildings were built in brick and reinforced concrete and were protected fromartilleryfire by crescent-shaped earth blast banks, surrounded by an outer ditch.

Areform of defence policyby the Secretary of WarViscount Haldanein 1905 resulted in all 13 centres being declared redundant, and both forts were sold back to the estate trustees in 1908.Both forts are protected by a Scheduled Monument listing.The National Trust owns the Box Hill Fort and a metal grill has been placed over the entrance to allow bats to access to their roosts.The Betchworth Fort is in private ownership and is not accessible to the public.

Pillboxon the south-facing scarp slope of Box Hill (to the north ofBetchworth Castle).

During World War II, the River Mole comprised part of the fortifiedGHQ Line B.This defensive line ran along the North Downs fromFarnhamviaGuildfordto Dorking, before following the river toHorley.Between Betchworth and Box Hill, the north bank of the River Mole was stabilised and made steeper to prevent wheeled vehicles from crossing. At Boxhill Farm, where access to the river from the north bank was required for the herd of dairy cows, a row of twelve concrete cylinders were cast as an anti-tank measure. Gun mounts were also installed to protect both Boxhill and Deepdene bridges and severalpillboxeswere constructed.The Stepping Stones at the foot of the hill were removed as an anti-invasion measure.

From 1940,Headley Courtwas used as the Headquarters for theVII Corpsand later for theCanadian Corpsand Canadian troops were billeted atHigh Ashurst.Bellasis House was used as training centre both for Czech agents of theSpecial Operations Executiveand for GermanPrisoners of War.In preparation forD-Day,Headley Heath was used for tank and combat training by the Canadian armed forces,and the area known as The Pyramids is named after the piles of ammunition that they kept on the heath.Betchworth Quarrywas used by the British Army in early 1944, to test the firing capabilities ofChurchill tanks.

Geology

Rock types

The exposed chalk workings of the former Betchworth Quarry on the south-facing scarp slope of Box Hill.

Thechalkwhich comprises the majority of Box Hill (and the rest of theNorth Downs), has its origins in the lateCretaceous(approximately 100 – 66 million years ago). For the entirety of this period, south east England was covered by a warm, shallow sea in whichcoccolithophores,single-celledalgaewith smallcalciteskeletons, thrived. As the phytoplankton died, their calcium-rich shells were deposited on the sea bed and, over time, formed the chalk we know today.

Overlying the chalk across much of the higher ground on the hill, is a deposit ofclay-with-flints.Although the origins of this layer are uncertain, the clay is thought to have been formed during several periods of glaciation and was produced bycryoturbationand decalcification of the chalk.This hypothesis is supported by the presence of flint, which is also found in the underlying strata.

The sandy deposits on Headley Heath have their origin in theQuaternary.The sand and gravels found in this area, indicate the presence of the sea shore.On Headley Heath, these deposits are thin and the chalk also comes to the surface in several places, allowingacid-loving plantsto thrive alongside those thatprefer alkaline conditions,producing the rarechalk heathhabitat.

Wealden uplift and erosion of the North Downs escarpment

Simplified geological cross section of the western Weald, showing how the land was uplifted to form theWeald-Artois anticline(dashed lines) and the strata as they are today (solid lines).

Following the Cretaceous, the sea covering the south of England began to retreat and the land was pushed higher. The Weald (the area covering modern day south Surrey, south Kent and north Sussex) was lifted bythe same geological processes that created the Alps,resulting in ananticlinewhich stretched across theEnglish Channelto theArtois regionof northern France. Initially an island, thisdome-like structurewas drained by the ancestors of the rivers which today cut through the North and South Downs (including theMole,Wey,ArunandAdur). The dome was eroded away over the course of theCenozoic,exposing the strata beneath and resulting in the escarpments of the Downs and the Greensand Ridge.

Chalk is a relatively soft rock that may be eroded or weathered in a number of different ways. It is porous, able to absorb up to 20% of its dry weight in water,and therefore highly susceptible to weathering byfreeze-thaw action,which may occur over repeated annual ordiurnalcycles. This frost weathering produces a mix of rubble and viscous mud, which may be washed downhill, further eroding the landscape (a process known assolifluction).At the west side of Box Hill, thehydraulic actionof the River Mole has cut a cliff known as The Whites and the river bed contains coarse chalk rubble (clast), which has fallen from the steep slopes above.Since the chalk contains a very high percentage ofcalcium carbonate,it can bedissolved by ground waterand solubilisation of the rock at the base of the hill may have produced the slabwise slumping or subsidence visible at the top of the Burford Spur.Finally, rainwater, which is mildly acidic, will dissolve and react with the chalk.

One of two steep-sided combes (dry river valleys) on the western side of Headley Heath.

The eastern and northern boundaries of Box Hill are defined bydry river valleys,now occupied by Pebblehill Road and Headley Lane respectively. These valleys were active during thelast ice age,when the chalk bedrock becamefrozenandimpermeable,forcing water to run over the surface in streams rather than percolating into the ground.Both valleys are narrow, twisting and deep, suggesting that they were created by fast flowing torrents, possibly released during periods of rapidsnowmelt.

The northern side of Box Hill (corresponding to thedip slopeof thecuestaof the North Downs) is cut by sixcombes,also created by Ice Age watercourses.The westernmost of these combes (between the Burford Spur and Lodge Hill) is climbed by the Zig Zag Road.There is a small reservoir to the west of High Ashurst at the base of the Bullen Wood combe, which is not accessible to the public. All six combes contained tributaries of the stream that created the Headley Valley, which joined theRiver Molenear Fredley,Mickleham.

Quarries and lime kilns

The Smidth Kiln atBetchworth Quarrywas constructed in around 1901.

Chalk and flint have been quarried from Box Hill and the surrounding area for many centuries. There are limited surviving examples of the incorporation of chalk blocks (orclunch) into the stonework of local buildings (includingMickleham Church).Walls made of flints, bound together bylime mortar,are particularly common inSurreyandquicklimecould be produced with relative ease, by heating chalk above 825 °C (1,517 °F) in akiln.

Evidence remains of the small-scale chalk quarrying that occurred prior to theIndustrial Revolution,including chalk pits both at Warren Farm and close to the Burford Bridge Hotel.The opening of theDorking to Reigate railway lineat the bottom of the hill in 1849, enabled new quarry faces to be opened atBrockhamandBetchworth.Sidings were provided adjacent to the main line and there was an extensive network of narrow-gauge railway tracks at both sites.TheBrockham Limeworksclosed in 1935, however a battery of eight kilns (dating from 1870) still stands and is Grade II listed.The largerBetchworth Quarry and Lime Kilns(approximately 1 km to the east) closed in 1960 and a variety of different kiln types have been preserved and protected with a Grade II listing.The two sites have been designated as Nature Reserves and are managed bySurrey Wildlife Trust.A wide range of bat species now roost in the former kilns.

Gravel was quarried on the northern side of Headley Heath during the 18th and early 19th centuries, most likely to provide material for building local roads.

Fossils

Numerousfossils,typical of species living in a warm, shallow sea, have been found in the chalk at Box Hill, includingbrachiopods(Terebratulina gracilis,Terebratulina carneaandRhynchonella cuvieri),arthropods(Janira quinquecostatus),bivalves(Spondylus spinosusandOstrea hippodium),urchins(Holaster planus,Micraster leskei) andsponges(Plinthosella squamata).

Ecology

Conservation

Belted Gallowaycattle grazing the Burford Spur on the north western side of the hill.

The entirety of Box Hill lies within theSurrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.The vast majority of the publicly accessible areas of the hill that are managed by the National Trust and Surrey Wildlife Trust, form part of theMole Gap to Reigate EscarpmentSite of Special Scientific Interestand have been designated aSpecial Area of Conservation.

The chalk downland of Box Hill provides a habitat for a wide range of plant species, which in turn support a varied population of insect species. The alkaline soils are thin and nutrient poor, which prevents deeper-rooted lush grasses (with a high water demand) from dominating. Each square metre of chalk downland may support up to 40 different species.

Without careful management, the grassland wouldrevert to woodlandand so these areas of the hill aregrazedin order to preventscrubfrom becoming overestablished.Both the National Trust and Surrey Wildlife Trust useBelted Gallowaycattle (affectionately nicknamed 'Belties'), which crop the grass less hard than other grazers and allow the more delicate wild flowers (including orchids) to flourish.At Betchworth Quarry, Surrey Wildlife Trust allows goats to graze, which can eat woodier plants such asgorseandbramble.Rabbitsalso make a significant contribution to the control of scrub and coarse grasses on the hill, although their numbers have declined since the introduction ofmyxomatosisin 1953.

Olympic Ringswere installed at the viewpoint in July 2012.

For any conservation area, it is important to find a balance between the interests of people visiting and the needs of the wildlife that it seeks to protect. After the announcement that the Olympic cycling road races would be routed over the hill, concerns were expressed that habitats would be damaged during the event.Scrub clearance along the side of the Zig Zag Road to provide space for spectators began in January 2012, after a pre-race survey (commissioned by theLondon Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games) showed that the work was likely to increase biodiversity.A second ecological survey, performed after the Games, showed that no significant damage had occurred, although some areas were subsequently reseeded.

Biodiversity

Common spotted(left) andmusk(right) orchids growing on Box Hill.

The chalk downland environment supports notable populations ofbats,lepidopterans,orchidsand the hill'snamesake,the box tree (Buxus sempervirens).

Orchids

A large number of species oforchidhave been recorded on Box Hill, includingautumn lady's-tresses,bee orchids,bird's-nest orchids,broad-leaved helleborines,common spotted orchids,common twayblades,fragrant orchids,pyramidal orchidsandwhite helleborines.

Other wild flowers

Wild garlicgrows alongsidebluebellsunder the tree canopy beside the River Mole at the western edge of the hill, giving the area its distinctive smell in springtime.

Aquatic plants

Damasonium alisma(starfruit) was reintroduced to Headley Heath in 2013 using seeds from theMillennium Seed Bank,having been absent since 2000.It is now found in Brimmer Pond (half of which is enclosed to prevent habitat disturbance by dogs) and also in Heath House Pond.

Trees

Yew and box trees growing on the west side of the hill.

Theboxandyewwoodland, on the steep-sloping sides of the hill above the River Mole, is of international importance. Commoncanopy-layerspecies includebeech,ashandoak.Understoreyspecies includeholly,hazel,elderandhoneysuckle.

Invasive speciesfound on the hill includebuddleia,cherry laurel,Japanese knot weedandCanadian goldenrod.Boxwood blight,afungal diseasecaused byCylindrocladium buxicola,is widespread.

Bats

Several abandoned brick and concrete structures provide habitats forbatsand grills have been placed over their entrances to protect the roosting sites.Three species are known to inhabit the old Box Hill Fort: thebrown long-eared bat,thenoctule batandNatterer's bat.The brown long-eared bat, Natterer's bat, thewhiskered batandDaubenton's bathave been recorded at both Betchworth and Brockham quarries.Brandt's bathas been recorded at Betchworth;Bechstein's batand thecommon pipistrellehave been recorded at Brockham.

Butterflies and moths

Chalkhill blue(left) andmarbled white(right) butterflies onknapweedflowers on Box Hill.

Box Hill supports 38 different species of butterflies.Species includesilver-spotted skipper,Adonis blueandchalkhill blue(grassland);brown hairstreak(scrub);purple emperorandwhite admiral(woodland).Thesmall pearl-bordered fritillarywas present on the hill in the 1970s,but has not been recorded locally since 1997.

Kidney vetch,growing in the Zig Zag Valley and below the Viewpoint, supports populations of thesmall blue.To create new habitats for the butterflies, a number of ‘scrapes’ were excavated in the late 2010s, exposing bare chalk on which vetch can become established with minimal competition. Buddleia removal was also initiated as part of the same programme.

Rare moth species found on the hill include thestraw belle,chalk carpet,lace border,orange-tailed clearwingand theSurrey midget moth.

Other insects

The hill has given its name to a species ofsquash bug,now found throughout south-east England.

Recreation

Salomons Memorial viewpoint, looking south, in 2010

Box Hill Country Park

The western part of Box Hill, managed by theNational Trust,was designated aCountry Parkin 1971and some of the outbuildings associated with the Box Hill Fort are in use as a visitor centre, gift shop and servery.In 2011, aNatural Play Trailwas constructed close to the visitor centre, cofunded by the National Trust and the Friends of Box Hill.

On the hill there arecar parksand a panoramic view over theWealdtowards theSouth Downsmay be enjoyed from the Salomons Memorial (more commonly known as the viewpoint).Juniper Top, on the northern side of the hill, offers views to the northwest towardsWindsor Castle.

The Country Park is crisscrossed by a large number offootpathsandbridleways,and there are several signposted, self-guided trails.

Cycling

Zig Zag Road
Prudential Ride-London 100: Amateur cyclists ascending the Zig Zag Road (July 2016)
Location	Box Hill, Surrey
Gain in altitude	120 m (390 ft)
Length of climb	2.5 km (1.6 mi)
Maximum elevation	175 m (574 ft)
Average gradient	5.0 %
Maximum gradient	7.3 %
Website	Box Hill Olympic Circuit

Box Hill has been popular with cyclists since the 1880sand by the 1890s, Dorking Cycle Club was organising camps for amateur cyclists from across the south east of England.The2012 Summer Olympic cyclingroad races included 15.8 km (9.8 mi) mid-race circuits of Box Hill.An estimated 15,000 spectators travelled to the hill on 28 July 2012 to watch the men's race, which included nine circuitsand the following day, competitors in the women's race climbed Box Hill twice.

The 15.8 km (9.8 mi) Box Hill Olympic circuit is generally cycled in ananticlockwisedirection and begins to the south of the village ofMicklehamwith an ascent of the hill via the Zig Zag Road. From the National Trust Visitor Centre, the route turns eastwards, running along the escarpment and through the urban area of Box Hill village, reaching a maximum elevation of 216 metres (709 ft) aboveOrdnance Datum.After 6.6 kilometres (4.1 mi) the route turns northwest along the B2033, passing through the village ofHeadley.After 9.5 kilometres (5.9 mi), the circuit begins a continuous descent to the valley of theRiver Mole,passing to the south ofLeatherhead,before turning southwards again through Mickleham to return to the start.

The Zig Zag Road is a steady climb of 120 metres (390 ft) over 2.5 kilometres (1.6 mi) and has, although on a much smaller scale, been likened to theAlpe d'Huezin the French Alps.The exact date of construction is uncertain: The road first appears on the Ordnance Survey map of 1869,but is not shown in awatercolour paintingdated 1861 byWilliam Leighton Leitch,which is owned by theRoyal Collection.The Zig Zag Road is not a publicright of wayand is closed for one day each year by the National Trust, to preserve itsprivate roadstatus.

As part of the 2011London Prepares series,theLondon–Surrey Cycle Classicfor professional cyclists was organised to test the Olympic course.ThePrudential RideLondon-Surrey 100andLondon–Surrey Classic,for amateur and professional cyclists respectively, have taken place annually following the Games and, although the course has undergone several alterations from the 2012 Olympic course, the two races always include a climb of Box Hill.

High Ashurst

Main article:High Ashurst

High Ashurst is anoutdoor educationandactivitycentre on the northern side of Box Hill, adjacent to Headley Heath. The centre is run by Surrey Outdoor Learning and Development on behalf ofSurrey County Council.Previously the site comprised the grounds of a country house, which was demolished in the 1970s, having been derelict for several decades.

Boidier Hurst campsite

The DistrictScout AssociationsofLeatherheadandEpsom and Ewellown a 4.0-hectare (10-acre)campsite,located between Box Hill village and Headley Heath.There are 11 areas for pitching groups of tents, set withincoppicedchestnutwoodland. Washing, toilet facilities and a kitchen are available.Use of Boidier Hurst is restricted to members of The Scout Association,The Guide Associationand to local school groups onDuke of Edinburgh's Awardexpeditions.

Points of interest

Betchworth Clump

The highest point on Box Hill is immediately to the east of Box Hill village at 224 m (735 ft)above OD.The area is known as Betchworth Clump after a distinctive group of beech trees, which were present at the start of the 20th century.Today, the dense woodland at the summit conceals awater towerandtransmitter mast,neither of which are accessible to the public.

The concrete water tower was built in 1930 by East Surrey Water, the forerunner ofSES Water.The structure was refurbished in 2009 to extend its working life by at least 25 years; modifications included the relining of the water bowl, repair of cracks in the walls and roof, as well as the provision of a new access staircase.

The 30m-high mobile phone mast was constructed in 2003 and is operated byVodafoneandEE Limited.

Broadwood's Folly

Broadwood's Folly was built in around 1820.Part of the Zig Zag Road is visible to the right of the tower.

The circular flint tower located on the northern tip of Lodge Hill was built for the piano makerThomas Broadwood,who purchasedJuniper Hallin 1815.It is approximately 8 metres (26 ft) high and originally had two internal floors, linked by a spiral staircase. The original doorway is visible on the east side, but has been sealed with rough flints. An avenue of beech trees linked the folly to Juniper Hall, although these were destroyed by theGreat Storm of 1987.The tower may have been built to commemorate theBattle of Waterloo.

Asparkling wine,produced byDenbies Wine Estatefor theLidlsupermarket chain, has been named after the folly.

Labilliere's grave

Labilliere's tombstone

Peter Labillierewas born inDublinon 30 May 1725 to a family of FrenchHuguenotdescent. He joined the British Army at the age of 14, becoming a major in 1760.After leaving the army he became a political agitator and was accused in 1775 of bribing British troops not to fight in the American War of Independence, although he was never tried for treason.

After moving to Dorking in around 1789,Labilliere often visited Box Hill to meditate.With old age he became increasingly eccentric and neglected his own personal hygiene to such an extent that he acquired the nickname "the walking dung-hill".He died on 6 June 1800.In accordance with his wishes he wasburied head downwards,on 11 June on the western side of Box Hill above The Whites. In the presence of a crowd of thousands that included visitors from London as well as the local "quality gentry",Labilliere was buried without any religious ceremony, having reportedly said that the world was "topsy-turvey" and that it would be righted in the end if he were interred thus. However, in his "Book of Devotions", he wrote that he wished to emulate the example ofSt Peter,who wascrucified upside-downaccording to tradition.

The current memorial stone on Box Hill is not believed to mark the exact location of his burial (which is thought to be several metres to the west on a steep incline). There are two errors on the stone itself: He was buried inJune1800 (rather than July) and all surviving manuscripts indicate that he spelt his name Labilliere (rather than Labelliere).

Weypole and Stepping Stones

The Stepping Stones at the foot of Box Hill. The photograph is taken from the west bank of the Mole, looking across the river to the Weypole.

TheWeypole(orWaypole) is a roughly semi-circular 2.4 ha (5.9-acre) area of level ground at the foot of Box Hill, between The Whites and the River Mole.The area was originally part of the grounds of Burford Lodge, built by John Eckersall in 1776, and the apple and cherry trees in the area suggest that it was used as an orchard for a time.The Burford Lodge estate was later owned by the horticulturalistSir Trevor Lawrence,who created a garden along the banks of the Mole for his collection of orchids.

A ford across the River Mole is thought to have existed here since prehistoric times.Theway-polewas a notched post, secured in the riverbed, that indicated the depth of the water.Stepping stones at this site are first recorded in 1841 and they may have been installed by an owner of Burford Lodge to facilitate access to the Weypole orchard.The crossing was formally reopened on 11 September 1946 by Prime MinisterClement Attlee,at the request ofJames Chuter Ede,local politician and Attlee's Home Secretary.The new stones replaced those removed during World War II as an anti-invasion measure.

The spot is popular with both anglers and families, although swimming is strongly discouraged. The stones give their name to the pub in the nearby village ofWesthumble.

Other

TheBurford Bridge HotelandJuniper HallField Studies Centre lie at the foot of Box Hill close to the river Mole. Both are rich in historical associations with famous visitors and residents.

Notable former residents

John Logie Baird

John Logie Baird(1888-1946), the inventor of thefirst working television system,lived at Box Hill from 1929 until 1932.He had first demonstrated the new technology in early 1926,and continued with his work when he moved to Swiss Cottage on the top of the hill. He installed a small-scale electricity generating plant in a purpose-built outbuilding, to provide electrical power for his experiments, which included test transmissions to the roof of the Red LionpubinDorkingHigh Street.He also demonstrated his Noctovisor, aninfraredviewing device, which was designed to enable ships to see each other at night or in fog.

Swiss Cottage was built in the mid-19th century and is protected by a Grade II listing. It is not accessible to the public.

Brodie family

Brockham Warren was the family seat of theBrodie baronets.Sir Benjamin Collins Brodie, 1st Baronet(1783-1862) was aphysiologistandsurgeon,who performed pioneering research into bone and joint diseases. He served as sergeant-surgeon to bothWilliam IVand subsequentlyQueen Victoria.He was made abaronetin 1834 and was President of theRoyal Societyfrom 1858 to 1861.His son,Sir Benjamin Collins Brodie, 2nd Baronet(1817-1880), was a Chemistry Professor atOxford Universityfrom 1865 to 1872, and is chiefly known for his investigations into theallotropic states of carbonand for his discovery ofgraphitic acid.

George Meredith

George Meredith and family members, photographed in the rear garden of Flint Cottage, Box Hill.

The authorGeorge Meredith(1828-1909) lived in Flint Cottage from 1868 until his death. He built a chalet in the garden in which he wrote. Today the house is protected by a Grade II listing and is not accessible to the public.

Among several works written at Box Hill, Meredith's poemThe Lark Ascending,published in 1881, inspiredRalph Vaughan Williamsto compose themusical work of the same name.A second poem,Love in the Valley(published in 1883 as part of a collection entitledPoems and Lyrics of the Joy of Earth), is said to have been inspired by the part of Box Hill known as Juniper Bottom or Happy Valley.

The part of the hill immediately opposite the cottage is known asBarrie's Bank,because the authorJ. M. Barriesupposedly waited there, while summoning the courage to introduce himself to Meredith.

E. F. Warburg

The botanistEdmund Frederic ( "Heff" ) Warburg(1908-1966) grew up at Boidier, a house close to the southeastern corner of Headley Heath. His father was a keen gardener and had assembled a large collection of exotic plants at the family home. Heff becamereaderinplant taxonomyatOxford Universityand was afellowofNew College.

His mother, Lady Warburg, gave the land for Boidier Hurst Camp Site to the DistrictScout AssociationsofLeatherheadandEpsom and Ewellin 1946and her family donated the neighbouring, 9-hectare (22-acre) Heath Plantation to the National Trust following her death in 1952.

Edvard Westermarck

The Finnish philosopher and sociologistEdvard Westermarck(1862-1939) rented Keeper's Cottage as his summer residence between 1910 and 1927.

Registered charities

TheNational Trustowns around half of the land on Box Hill (principally the Country Park in the west and Headley Heath in the north-east).Surrey Wildlife TrustmanageBrockham Limeworks(owned bySurrey County Council) as well asBetchworth Quarry and Lime Kilns(privately owned).Both Trusts rely on the support of volunteer groups, working alongside paid employees, to carry out conservation and education work.

TheFriends of Box Hill(FoBH) is a local organisation, which supports the National Trust in its work in the Country Park. Several of its members advise the Trust on its wildlife management plans and the FoBH also fund specific projects, including the purchase of equipment and improvement of visitor facilities. They also organise a programme of social events, which includes regular talks by Trust staff.

TheFriends of Headley Heath(FoHH) coordinate volunteer working parties to assist National Trust Rangers and also run a series of social events.

(Both the FoBH and FoHH are independent of the National Trust.)

Transport links

Public transport

Box Hill & Westhumbleis the closest railway station to theNational TrustCountry Park (approximately 500 m) and is served by trains from bothLondon VictoriaandLondon Waterloo.BothDorking DeepdeneandDorking (Main)stations are around 1 km from the south western corner of the hill.Betchworthstation is at the south eastern corner of the hill.

A Sunray Travel bus passing the visitor centre. Inset left shows the special wooden National Trust bus stop, with logo engraved.

Box Hill is served by local andLondonbus routes.

Access for motor vehicles

Access to the National Trust Country Park from theA24dual carriageway is via the B2209 and the Zig Zag Road, however this route is not suitable for buses or coaches. Alternative access is via the B2033 and Boxhill Road, which leads through Box Hill village and approaches the Country Park from the west.Headley Heath is directly accessible from the B2033.

Cycle routes

National Cycle Route 22runs along the northern boundary of the hill via Lodgebottom Road and Headley Lane, before turning south along theA24close to the western boundary.The Surrey Cycleway approaches Box Hill from the west via Westhumble, before turning to the south towards Dorking.

Walking

TheNorth Downs Waylong-distance footpathfromFarnhamtoDover,crosses the River Mole at the Stepping Stones and then runs from west to east at the top of the scarp slope, passing in front of the Salomons Memorial.

TheThames Down Linkfollows the course ofStane Streetacross Mickleham Downs, to the north of Box Hill, and meets theNorth Downs Wayclose to theBurford Bridge Hotel.

Cultural references

A view of Box Hill, Surrey(1733) byGeorge Lambert– held byThe Tate.

Art

Box Hill, Surrey with Dorking in the distance(1733) byGeorge Lambert– held by theYale Center for British Art.

In 1733,George Lambertpainted two views of Box Hill, now held byThe Tateand theYale Center for British Art.

The Stonebreaker(1857 -1858), a painting byJohn Brett(1831–1902), depicts a young boy breaking stones for road mending, with Box Hill in the background.

Box Hill forms the backdrop toThe Stonebreaker,painted by John Brett in 1857–1858.

A watercolour entitledBox Hill, Surreydated 1861 byWilliam Leighton Leitch(1804–1883), which depicts the view looking northwards from the top of the Burford Spur before the Zig Zag Road was built, is part of theRoyal Collection.

TheBox Hill Road River,a highly curved, 100-metre (330 ft) line painted onto the surface of the Zig Zag Road by the British sculptor andland artistRichard Long,was commissioned jointly by the London 2012 Festival and the National Trust to celebrate the route of the Olympic Cycling road races.

Literature

John Evelyn notes in hisDiaryin 1662 that Box Hill was frequented by the ladies and gentlemen from nearbyEpsomspa.

Daniel Defoe(the author ofRobinson Crusoe) was educated for five years (until around the age of fourteen) at the Rev. James Fisher's boarding school in Pixham Lane, Dorking. He writes extensively about the area around Box Hill in his travelogue,A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain(1724–1727), which describes the country shortly before the start of theIndustrial Revolution.He records that in the late 17th century,Sir Adam Brownethe then landowner, approved the fitting out of a cave or vault close to what is now the Salomons Memorial, to supply 'refreshment' to visitors to the hill. A group of youngDissentersfromDorkingwere so disgusted by the 'debauched' behaviour that the sale of alcohol encouraged (which took place even on Sundays), that they stormed up the hill one Saturday night and blew up the cavern with gunpowder.

The writer Edward Beavan describes the hill and the surrounding area of Surrey in his poemBox-Hill, a descriptive poem,published in 1777.

The Picnic at Box Hill: Pen-and-ink drawing by Chris Hammond (1860–1900) for the 1898 edition ofEmmabyJane Austen.

The 'picnic scene', a pivotal passage ofJane Austen's novelEmma(first published in 1815) is set at Box Hill.

Celia Fiennes,a contemporary of Defoe, described Box Hill in her travel memoirs, which were published in 1888 (almost 150 years after her death) under the titleThrough England on a Side Saddle.

"Box Hill… is the Continuation of the Ridge of hills I mentiond by Maidstone; its a Greate height and shows you a vast precipice down on the farther side, and such a vast vale full of woods Enclosures and Little towns. There is a very good river that runs by a Little town Called Darken just at the foote of this hill, very famous for good troutts and great store of ffish. On this hill the top is Cover'd with box whence its name proceeds, and there is other wood but its all Cutt in Long private walks very shady and pleasant, and this is a great diversion to the Company and would be more ffrequented if nearer Epsom town."

InEngland: A Nation,(London: R. Brimley Johnson, 1904), edited by Lucian Oldershaw, and in a chapter entitled "The Patriotic Idea" written byG. K. Chesterton,the beauty of Box Hill violated by an invading army is used to express a healthy patriot's love for his nation as opposed to the jingoistic nationalism of tabloid newspapers:

"But just as a man who has been in love will find it difficult to write a whole frantic epic about a flirtation, so all that kind of rhetoric about the Union Jack and the Anglo-Saxon blood, which has made amusing the journalism of this country for the last six years, will be merely impossible to the man who has for one moment called up before himself what would be the real sensation of hearing that a foreign army was encamped on Box Hill."

Mystery authorCyril Haresets his 1954 novel,That Yew Tree's Shade(published in the US asDeath Walks the Woods), at "Yew Hill", which Hare admits in an introduction is modelled on Box Hill.

In his comic novel,Box Hill,published in 2020, British authorAdam Mars-Jonestells the story of a same-sex relationship between a teenager and an older man, set within the Surrey motorbiking fraternity of the mid-1970s.

Music

British biker rock bandDumpy's Rusty Nutsreleased a single calledBox Hill or Bustin 1984. The song is something of a cult anthem for bikers and reflects the popularity of Box Hill among the biking community.

InPublic Image Limited's songFlowers of Romance,John Lydonsings "I've got binoculars. On top of Box Hill".

InRichard Thompson's song1952 Vincent Black Lightning(released in 1991), Box Hill is the location to which James and Red Molly ride on James' motorcycle.Incover versionsof this song by American musicians, Box Hill is sometimes changed toKnoxville,a city inTennessee.

The first song onBen Watt's 1983 debut albumNorth Marine Driveis entitledOn Box Hill.

Actor and singerTom Felton's song calledTime Well Spentmentions him going to "chill out on Box Hill".

Film

The racing scenes during the opening credits of the 1968 filmChitty Chitty Bang Bangwere filmed on the Zig Zag Road.

The 2012 British filmBerberian Sound Studiocontains a shortfilm-within-the-film– a spoof 1970s-style documentary about the outstanding natural and man-made features of Box Hill.

In the news

In 1963Great Train Robber,Jimmy White, hid £30,440 (approximately one fifth of his share of the stolen cash), in a caravan at Clovelly Caravan Park at the top of Box Hill.

In 1995 teenagerRuth Wilsondisappeared after being dropped off by taxi on Box Hill.

In 2013 a body that had lain undiscovered for two years was found on Box Hill.It was identified as missing teacher Brian Hynard who had left two suicide notes before disappearing.

Notes

Bellamoss Pond, Headley Heath.

Bibliography

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External links

• Box Hill community website
• Box Hill – National Trust
• Betchworth Quarry – Surrey Wildlife Trust
• Brockham Quarry – Surrey Wildlife Trust
• Headley Heath – National Trust
• High Ashurst – Surrey Outdoor Learning
• Juniper Hall – Field Studies Council