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Carmarthen

Coordinates:51°51′22″N4°18′58″W/ 51.856°N 4.316°W/51.856; -4.316
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Not to be confused withCaernarfon.

Carmarthen
Carmarthen is located in Carmarthenshire
Carmarthen
Carmarthen
Location withinCarmarthenshire
Population14,185[1](2011 Census)
OS grid referenceSN415205
Community
  • Carmarthen
Principal area
Preserved county
CountryWales
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townCARMARTHEN
Postcode districtSA31-33
Dialling code01267
PoliceDyfed-Powys
FireMid and West Wales
AmbulanceWelsh
UK Parliament
Senedd Cymru – Welsh Parliament
Websitewww.carmarthentowncouncil.gov.uk
List of places
UK
Wales
Carmarthenshire
51°51′22″N4°18′58″W/ 51.856°N 4.316°W/51.856; -4.316

Carmarthen(UK:/kərˈmɑːrðən/,local:/kɑːr-/;Welsh:Caerfyrddin[kairˈvərðɪn],"Merlin's fort "or" Sea-town fort ") is thecounty townofCarmarthenshireand acommunityinWales,lying on theRiver Towy8 miles (13 km) north of its estuary inCarmarthen Bay.[2][3]The population was 14,185 in 2011, down from 15,854 in 2001,[4]but gauged at 16,285 in 2019.[5]It has a claim to be the oldest town in Wales –Old CarmarthenandNew Carmarthenbecame one borough in 1546.[6]It was the most populous borough in Wales in the 16th–18th centuries, described byWilliam Camdenas "chief citie of the country". Growth stagnated by the mid-19th century as new settlements developed in theSouth Wales Coalfield.[6]

History

[edit]

Early history

[edit]
Main article:Moridunum (Carmarthen)
See also:Black Book of Carmarthen
Carmarthen Castle, main gateway
A page from Carmarthen Borough's Book of Ordinances, 1582

WhenBritanniawas a Roman province, Carmarthen was thecivitascapital of theDemetaetribe,known asMoridunum[2]( "Sea Fort" ). It is possibly the oldest town in Wales, recorded byPtolemyand in theAntonine Itinerary.The Roman fort is believed to date from about AD 75. A Roman coin hoard was found nearby in 2006.[7]Near the fort is one of seven survivingRoman amphitheatresin Britain and only two inRoman Wales(the other being atIsca Augusta,RomanCaerleon). Excavated in 1968, the Carmarthen fort has an arena of 50 by 30 yards (about 46 by 27 metres); thecavea(seating area) is 100 by 73 yards (92 by 67 metres).Veprauskashas argued for identifying it as theCair Guorthigirn[8]( "FortVortigern") listed byNenniusamong the 28 cities ofBritainin hisHistory of the Britons.[9]Evidence of the early Roman town has been investigated for several years, revealing urban sites likely to date from the 2nd century.[10]

During theMiddle Ages,the settlement then known asLlanteulyddog('StTeulyddog's)[11]accounted one of the seven principal sees (Cantrefi) inDyfed.[12]The strategic importance of Carmarthen caused theNormanWilliam fitz Baldwin to build a castle there, probably about 1094. The current castle site is known to have been occupied since 1105. The castle itself was destroyed byLlywelyn the Greatin 1215, but rebuilt in 1223, when permission was given for a town wall andcrenellations,making it one of the first medieval walled towns in Wales. In 1405, the town was captured and the castle sacked byOwain Glyndŵr.TheBlack Book of Carmarthenof about 1250 is associated with the town's Priory of SS John the Evangelist and Teulyddog.

TheBlack Deathof 1347–1349 arrived in Carmarthen with the thriving river trade.[13]It destroyed and devastated villages such asLlanllwch.Local historians cite the plague pit for the mass burial of the dead in the graveyard that adjoins the Maes-yr-Ysgol and Llys Model housing at the rear of St Catherine Street.

Priory

[edit]
Main article:Carmarthen Priory

In 1110, the ancientClaschurch of Llandeulyddog, an independent, pre-Norman religious community, became theBenedictinePriory of St Peter,[14]only to be replaced 15 years later by theAugustinianPriory of St John the Evangelist and St Teulyddog.[15][16]This stood near the river, at what is now Priory Street (51°51′36″N4°17′51″W/ 51.8601°N 4.2975°W/51.8601; -4.2975(St John's Priory),SN418204). The site is now ascheduled monument.

Grey Friars

[edit]

FranciscanFriars (Grey Friars, or Friars minor) became established in the town in the 13th century, and by 1284 had their own Friary buildings in Lammas Street (51°51′21″N4°18′33″W/ 51.855794°N 4.309076°W/51.855794; -4.309076(Carmarthen Greyfriars)), on a site now holding a shopping centre.[17]The Franciscan emphasis on poverty and simplicity meant the church was smaller (some "70 to 80 feet long and 30 feet broad" – 21/24 by 9 m) and more austere than the older foundations, but this did not prevent an accumulation of treasures, as it became a sought-after location for burial.[18]In 1456Edmund Tudor, 1st Earl of Richmonddied of plague in Carmarthen,[19]three months before the birth of his son, the future KingHenry VII.Edmund was buried in a prominent tomb in the centre of the choir of the Grey Friars Church.[18]Other notables buried there wereRhys ap ThomasandTudur Aled.[17]

The Friary was dissolved in 1538, and many unsuccessful plans were made for the building. Even before the friars had left in 1536,William Barlowcampaigned to have the cathedral moved into it fromSt David's,[18]where the tomb and remains of Edmund Tudor were moved after the Carmarthen buildings were deconsecrated. There were repeated attempts to turn the buildings into a grammar school.[18]Gradually they became ruined, although the church walls were still recognisable in the mid-18th century.[18]By 1900 all the stonework had been stripped off and there were no traces above ground. The site remained undeveloped until the 1980s and 1990s, after extensive archaeological excavations of first the monastic buildings and then the nave and chancel of the church. These confirmed that the former presence of a church, a chapter house and a large cloister, with a smaller cloister and infirmary added later. Over 200 graves were found in the churchyard and 60 around the friars' choir.[20]

Arthurian legend

[edit]
Merlin, from theNuremberg Chronicle(1493)

Geoffrey of Monmouth,writing in 1188, began the legend thatMerlinwas born in a cave outside Carmarthen.[21]The town's Welsh name,Caerfyrddin,is widely claimed to mean "Merlin's fort", but a reverse etymology is also suggested: the name Merlin may have originated from the town's name in theanglicisedform ofMyrddin.[22](SeeMerlin § Name). An alternative explanation is thatMyrddinis a corruption of the town's Roman name, Moridunum, meaning "sea fort."[23]

Legend also had it that if a certain tree calledMerlin's Oakfell, it would bring the downfall of the town. Translated from Welsh, it reads: "When Merlin's Oak comes tumbling down/Down shall fall Carmarthen Town."[24]To obstruct this, the tree was dug up when it died; pieces of it remain in the town museum.

TheBlack Book of Carmarthenincludes poems that refer to Myrddin (Ymddiddan Myrddin a Thaliesin,"Conversation of Merlin and Taliesin" ) and possibly to Arthur (Pa ŵr yw'r Porthor?,"What man is the porter?" ). Interpretation of these is difficult, as the Arthurian legends were known by this time and details of the modern form had been described byGeoffrey of Monmouthbefore the book was written. Some historians suggest thatVortigernalong with his army fromPowysmay have invaded theYstrad Tywiin order to gain control of it but had to retreat either due to local rebels fighting back or being defeated byDyfed,but in the process may have kidnapped a young Merlin from Carmarthen hence why the character is legendary within the town.

Early modern

[edit]
John Speed's 1610 map of Carmarthen.
Carmarthen, 1823
Carmarthen, Entrance from the Bridge, 1865

One of the earliest recordedEisteddfodautook place at Carmarthen in about 1451, presided over byGruffudd ap Nicolas.[25][26]

TheBook of Ordinances(1569–1606) is one of the earliest surviving minute books of a town in Wales. It gives a unique picture of an Elizabethan town.[27]

After theincorporation of Wales into the legal system of England,Carmarthen became judicial headquarters of theCourt of Great Sessionsfor south-west Wales. The town's dominant pursuits in the 16th and 17th centuries were still agriculture and related trades, includingwoollenmanufacture. Carmarthen was made acounty corporateby a charter ofJames Iin 1604. This decreed that Carmarthen should be known as the 'County of the Borough of Carmarthen' and have twosheriffs.This was reduced to one sheriff in 1835 and the ceremonial post continues to this day.

The Priory and the Friary were abandoned after the dissolution of the monasteries underHenry VIII.The chapels of St Catherine and St Barbara were lost. The Church of St Peter's survived as the main religious establishment. During theMarian persecutionsof the 1550s,Bishop Ferrarof St David's was burnt at the stake in the market square – now Nott Square. His life and death as a Protestant martyr are recorded inFoxe's Book of Martyrs.

In 1689,John Osborne, 1st Earl of Danby,was created 1st Marquess of Carmarthen byWilliam III.He was then createdDuke of Leedsin 1694, and Marquess of Carmarthen became the courtesy title for the Duke's heir apparent until the Dukedom became extinct on the death of the12th Dukein 1964.

18th century to present

[edit]

In the mid-18th century, the Morgan family founded a smallironworksat the east end of the town. In 1786 lead smelting was established to process the ore carried from Lord Cawdor's mines at Nantyrmwyn, in the north-east of Carmarthenshire. Neither of these firms survived for long. The lead smelting moved to Llanelli in 1811. The ironworks evolved into a tinplate works that had failed by about 1900. The borough corporation was reformed by a 1764 charter and again by theMunicipal Corporations Act 1835.

In the late 18th century John Spurrell, an auctioneer fromBath,settled in Carmarthen. He was the grandson of Robert Spurrell, a Bath schoolmaster, who printed the city's first book,The Elements of Chronologyin 1730. In 1840, a printing press was set up in Carmarthen byWilliam Spurrell(1813–1889), who wrote a history of the town and compiled and published an 1848 Welsh-English dictionary and an 1850 English–Welsh dictionary.[28]Today's CollinsWelshdictionaryis known as the "Collins Spurrell". A local housing authority in Carmarthen is named Heol Spurrell in honour of the family.[28]

The origins ofChartism in Walescan be traced to the foundation in the autumn of 1836 of Carmarthen Working Men's Association.[29]

Carmarthen gaol, designed byJohn Nash,was in use from about the year 1789 until its demolition in 1922. The site is now taken by County Hall, designed by Sir Percy Thomas. The gaol's "Felons' Register" of 1843–1871 contains some of the earliest photographs of criminals in Britain. In 1843, the workhouse in Carmarthen was attacked by theRebecca Rioters.

The revival of the Eisteddfod as an institution took place in Carmarthen in 1819. The town hosted theNational Eisteddfodin 1867, 1911 and 1974, although at least in 1974, theMaeswas atAbergwili.

Carmarthen Grammar Schoolwas founded in 1587 on a site now occupied by the old hospital in Priory Street. The school moved in the 1840s to Priory Row, before relocating to Richmond Terrace. At the turn of the 20th century, a local travelling circus buried one of its elephants that fell sick and died. The grave is under what was the rugby pitch.

The population in 1841 was 9,526.[30]

World War IIprisoner-of-war camps were placed in Johnstown (where the Davies Estate now stands) and at Glangwilli — the huts being used as part of the hospital since its inception. To the west of the town was the "Carmarthen Stop Line", one of a network ofdefensive linescreated in 1940–1941 in case of invasion, with a series of ditches andpill boxesrunning north and south. Most have since been removed or filled in, but two remain.[31][32]

TheCarmarthen communityis bordered by those ofBronwydd,Abergwili,Llangunnor,Llandyfaelog,Llangain,LlangynogandNewchurch and Merthyr,all in Carmarthenshire.

Carmarthen was named as one of the best places to live in Wales in 2017.[33]

Politics and governance

[edit]
See also:Mayor of CarmarthenandSheriff of Carmarthen

From 1536 until 1832, Carmarthen, as the borough town ofCarmarthenshirewas aparliamentary constituency,electing its own MP to the House of Commons. By the late 18th century, Carmarthen, as one of the largest towns in Wales at the time, was the scene of a succession of hotly contested electoral contests between the Blues (Whigs) and Reds (Tories). These reached a climax in 1831 with the general election fought in the midst of the Reform Crisis. The contest was characterised by riots and disturbances, described as "exceptional because of their intensity and duration".[34]

From 1832, Carmarthen shared the borough member with Llanelli, which ultimately became dominant due to its larger population. The borough constituency was abolished in 1918. In 1966, Carmarthen attracted widespread attention following the by-election in Carmarthenshire which led to the election ofGwynfor Evansas the firstPlaid CymruMP.

Carmarthen Town Council, established in 1974, and replacing the former Carmarthen Borough Council, consists of 18 town councillors elected from the threewardsof the town. Its responsibilities include maintenance of the town's five parks and the town cemetery.[35]

There are two county electoral wards,Carmarthen Town North and South(formerlyCarmarthen Town NorthandCarmarthen Town South) electing three councillors andCarmarthen Town West,electing two councillors toCarmarthenshire County Council.

Climate

[edit]
Climate data for Carmarthen (1991–2020)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 8.6
(47.5) 		9.1
(48.4) 		10.9
(51.6) 		14.0
(57.2) 		16.9
(62.4) 		19.3
(66.7) 		21.0
(69.8) 		20.6
(69.1) 		18.2
(64.8) 		14.9
(58.8) 		11.5
(52.7) 		9.1
(48.4) 		14.5
(58.1)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.1
(35.8) 		2.1
(35.8) 		3.0
(37.4) 		4.7
(40.5) 		7.3
(45.1) 		10.0
(50.0) 		11.9
(53.4) 		11.2
(52.2) 		9.7
(49.5) 		7.2
(45.0) 		4.2
(39.6) 		2.3
(36.1) 		6.3
(43.3)
Average rainfall mm (inches) 139.2
(5.48) 		116.8
(4.60) 		93.0
(3.66) 		77.3
(3.04) 		74.4
(2.93) 		79.2
(3.12) 		74.4
(2.93) 		117.8
(4.64) 		114.5
(4.51) 		155.2
(6.11) 		148.2
(5.83) 		155.8
(6.13) 		1,345.8
(52.98)
Mean monthlysunshine hours 55.4 80.8 122.6 183.8 211.6 202.8 194.9 172.4 137.1 103.8 67.3 50.1 1,582.6
Source:Met Office[36]

Religion

[edit]

Anglicanism

[edit]
Main article:St Peter's Church, Carmarthen

The Anglican Church in Wales(Eglwys yng Nghymru)has six dioceses. St Peter's is the largest parish church in theDiocese of St David'sand has the longest nave: 200' (60 metres) from west porch to east window and 50' (15 metres) across the nave and south aisle. In 1954, St Peter's became a Grade I listed building. [37]It consists of a west tower, nave, chancel, south aisle and a Consistory Court, built of local red sandstone and grey shale. The tower contains eight bells, of which the heaviest, tuned to E, weighs 15 cwt 18 lb (783 kg).

By the early 19th century, St Peter's was too small to accommodate the congregation, which had grown in line with the town's population. After several false starts a new church,St David's,was consecrated in 1841. Another church in the same western part of the town,Christ Church,opened in 1869 to serve the English-speaking congregation.

Catholicism

[edit]

St Mary's, Carmarthen is part of theCarmarthen Deanery.

Nonconformity

[edit]

Carmarthen has several notable nonconformist chapels, some of which date back to the 18th century or earlier.

ABaptistchapel was founded in Dark Gate in 1762 and then moved in 1812 to Waterloo Terrace under the ministry of Titus Lewis. The new chapel became known as the Tabernacle.[38]Another Baptist chapel,Penueldates from 1786, with the present building erected in 1872.[39]TheEnglish Baptist Churchin Lammas Street dates from 1870.[40]All three chapels remained open in 2024.

Lammas Street Chapelis the town's oldest Congregational or Independent chapel, traceable back to 1726, with the present building erected a century later.[41]Union Street Chapel, now closed, was formed after a split among the Lammas Street congregation.[42]Priory Chapel in Priory Street, was founded in 1872 as a branch of Ebenezer, Abergwili.

The earliest Calvinistic Methodist Chapel wasWater Street Chapel,which is now closed. It had ties with Peter Williams, who produced a celebrated Welsh-language version of the Bible in the 18th century.[43]Bethania Chapel in Priory Street, dating from 1909, closed shortly after celebrating its centenary.

Landmarks

[edit]
Carmarthen Bridge
Pont King Morgan footbridge withCarmarthen Bridgein the background

Carmarthen Castle

[edit]
Main article:Carmarthen Castle

Little remains of the medieval castle at Carmarthen, but the old Gatehouse still dominates Nott Square. Themotteis also accessible to the public. Castle House, within the old walls, is a museum and Tourist Information Centre.[44]

Carmarthen Bridge

[edit]
Main article:Carmarthen Bridge

The concreteA484 roadbridge across theRiver Tywidesigned by the Welsh architectClough Williams-Elliswas completed in 1937. It was Grade IIlistedin 2003.[45]The loss of the original medieval bridge that it replaced caused controversy.[citation needed]

Pont King Morgan

[edit]

To create better pedestrian access across the River Tywi from thetown's railway stationto the town centre, acable-stayed bridgewas constructed in 2005 linking to the foot of Blue Street. The cost was £2.8 million.[46]The bridge was commended in 2007 by theBritish Constructional Steelwork Association'sStructural Steel Design Awards for its high-quality detailing. Previously, access was acrossCarmarthen Bridgesome 700 feet (210 m) to the east.[47]

Picton's monument

[edit]
Main article:Picton Monument, Carmarthen
The Picton Monument in 2008

In 1828, a monument was erected at the west end of the town to honourLieutenant GeneralSirThomas Picton,fromHaverfordwest,who had died at theBattle of Waterlooin 1815. The pillar, which was about 75 ft (23 m), was designed to echoTrajan's columninRome.A statue of Picton, wrapped in a cloak and supported by a baluster above emblems of spears surmounted the column.

Within a few years, the monument became dilapidated. The entire pillar was taken down in 1846. In the 1970s, the replacement sculptures were rediscovered inJohnstownand are now displayed inCarmarthenshire County Museum.

After demolition of the first monument, a new structure honouring Picton was commissioned from the architectFrances Fowler.The foundation stone was laid on Monument Hill in 1847. In 1984, the top section was declared unsafe and taken down. Four years later, the whole monument was rebuilt stone-by-stone on stronger foundations.

A campaign to remove the monument due to Picton's treatment of slaves arose in the wake of the removal of theStatue of Edward Colstonin Bristol on 6 June 2020.[48]

The Nott statue and plaque to Ferrar

[edit]

A statue ofGeneral Nottwas erected in 1851. According to the PMSA, "The bronze statue was cast from cannon captured at the battle of Maharajpur.Queen Victoriagave 200 guineas to the memorial fund. The statue occupies the site of the market cross, which was dismantled when the market was resited and Nott Square created in 1846. "[49]

The Market Square was whereBishop Robert Ferrarof St Davids was executed in March 1555. A small plaque below the statue of General Nott commemorates the place where he was burned at the stake during theMarian Persecutions.

Listed buildings

[edit]
Carmarthen Guildhall

The many listed buildings includeCarmarthen Guildhall,Capel Heol Awst,Capel Heol Dŵr,Carmarthen Cemetery Chapel,Elim Independent Chapel,English Baptist Church,English Congregational Church,Penuel Baptist Chapel,Christ Church,Eglwys Dewi Sant,Church of St MaryandEglwys Sant Ioan.

Amenities

[edit]

Dyfed–Powys Policeheadquarters,Glangwili General Hospitaland a campus of theUniversity of Wales Trinity Saint Davidare located in Carmarthen.

The former cattle market in the heart of the town became a new shopping centre, which opened in 2010.[50]It includes a multi-screen cinema, a market hall, restaurants and amulti-storey car park.A new market hall opened in 2009.[51]

Transport

[edit]

Roads

[edit]

TheA40,A48,A484andA485converge on Carmarthen. TheM4 motorway,which linksSouth WaleswithLondon,terminates at junction 49, thePont Abraham services;the route continues north-west as thedual carriageway A48and finishes at its junction with the A40 in Carmarthen.

Railway

[edit]

Carmarthen railway stationis a stop on theWest Wales Lineand opened in 1852. The town has rail links toCardiff CentralviaSwanseato the east andFishguard Harbour,Milford Haven,Tenby,PembrokeandPembroke Dockto the west; these services are operated byTransport for Wales.[52]There are daily direct inter-city trains toLondon,operated byGreat Western Railway.[53]

The area suffered a number of railway line closures in the 1960s under theBeeching Axe:one route toLlandeilo,which was closed in 1963, and one toLampeterandAberystwythin 1965.

Buses

[edit]

Local bus services are operated by several companies, includingFirst Cymruand Morris Travel; routes connect the town with Aberystwyth, Cardiff,LlandeiloandLlanelli.[54]

There is aPark and Rideservice running daily from Monday to Saturday from 7.00 to 19.00 between Nantyci, to the west of Carmarthen town, and the town centre.[55]

National Expressoperate two long-distance coach routes with stops in Carmarthen. Route 112 runs fromBirminghamtoHaverfordwestand the 508 linksLondonwith Haverfordwest.[54]

Sport

[edit]

The town has tworugby unionteams:Carmarthen QuinsandCarmarthen Athletic.Quins currently plays in the Welsh Premier Division league, after promotion to the Premiership in the 2008/2009 season.CPC Bears,arugby leagueclub based in Carmarthen and the regional side forCarmarthenshire,PembrokeshireandCeredigion,plays in the Welsh Premier Division of the Rugby League Conference.

The town'ssemi-professionalfootballteam,Carmarthen Town F.C.,plays in theCymru South.Founded in 1948, it plays its home games atRichmond Park.The club colours, reflected in its crest and kit, are gold and black. The town also has a youth football team Carmarthen Stars that plays in the local Carmarthenshire Junior Leagues from the under-12s age group to the under-16s age group.

The town has twogolf courses,a leisure centre with an eight-lane, 25-metre swimming pool (where the Carmarthen district swimming club is based), a synthetic athletics track and an outdoor velodrome it also has an athletics team, Carmarthen Harriers. A cycle track opened in about 1900 and remains in use.Motorcycle speedwayracing was staged in the early 2000s at a track built on the western outskirts of the town; the team raced in theConference League.

Picton Barracks

[edit]

Picton Barracks is amilitary installation,based in the west part of the town, and is used by theMinistry of Defence.Two major units currently reside there:[56]

British Army

Royal Air Force

Notable people

[edit]
SeeCategory:People from Carmarthen
SeeCategory:People from Carmarthenshire

Twin towns

[edit]
BrittanyLesneven,Brittany,France
ItalySanta Marinella,Italy
Galicia (Spain)As Pontes,Galicia,Spain

References

[edit]
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Further reading

[edit]
  • Jones, David J.V. (1968)."The Carmarthen Riots of 1831"(PDF).Welsh History Review.4(2).Retrieved18 November2020.
  • Lodwick, Joyce and Victor (1994).The Story of Carmarthen(third (updated) ed.). Carmarthen: St Peter's Press.ISBN0-9517962-0-8.
[edit]
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