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Dover

Coordinates:51°07′46″N1°18′32″E/ 51.1295°N 1.3089°E/51.1295; 1.3089
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This article is about the English town. For the U.S. state capital, seeDover, Delaware.For other uses, seeDover (disambiguation).
Dover
Aerial view of Dover Harbour
Dover is located in Kent
Dover
Dover
Location withinKent
Population31,022 (2011 Census)[1]
OS grid referenceTR315415
•London77.8 miles (125.2 km)
Civil parish
District
Shire county
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townDOVER
Postcode districtCT16, CT17
Dialling code01304
PoliceKent
FireKent
AmbulanceSouth East Coast
UK Parliament
Councillors
  • Mayor (Gordon Cowan)
List of places
UK
England
Kent
51°07′46″N1°18′32″E/ 51.1295°N 1.3089°E/51.1295; 1.3089

Dover(/ˈdoʊvər/DOH-vər) is a town and major ferry port inKent,South East England.It faces France across theStrait of Dover,the narrowest part of theEnglish Channelat 33 kilometres (21 mi) fromCap Gris Nezin France. It lies south-east ofCanterburyand east ofMaidstone.The town is the administrative centre of theDover Districtand home of thePort of Dover.

Archaeological finds have revealed that the area has always been a focus for peoples entering and leavingBritain.The name derives from theRiver Dourthat flows through it.

In recent times the town has undergone transformations with a high-speed rail link to London, new retail in town with St James' area opened in 2018, and a revamped promenade and beachfront. This followed in 2019, with a new 500m Pier to the west of the Harbour, and new Marina unveiled as part of a £330m investment in the area. It has also been a point of destination for manyillegal migrant crossings.

The Port of Dover provides much of the town's employment, as does tourism including to the landmarkWhite Cliffs of Dover.There were over 368,000 tourists visiting Dover castle in the year of 2019.[3] Dover is classified as a Large-Port Town, due to its large volumes of port traffic and low urban population.[4]

History[edit]

Main article:History of Dover
Dover Castleseen from Castle Street.
Photograph showing a Dover street scene, c. 1860

Archaeologicalfinds have shown that there wereStone Agepeople in the area, and that someIron Agefinds also exist.[5]During theRoman period,the area became part of the Roman communications network. It was connected by road toCanterburyandWatling Streetand it becamePortus Dubris,a fortified port. Dover has a partly preserved Roman lighthouse (the tallest surviving Roman structure in Britain) and the remains of a villa with preserved Roman wall paintings.[6]Dover later figured inDomesday Book(1086).

Forts were built above the port and lighthouses were constructed to guide passing ships. It is one of theCinque Ports.[7]and has served as a bastion against various attackers: notably the French during theNapoleonic Warsand Germany during theSecond World War.

During theCold War,aRegional Seat of Governmentwas located within the White Cliffs beneath Dover Castle. This is omitted from the strategic objects appearing on the Soviet 1:10,000 city plan of Dover that was produced in 1974.[8]The port would have served as an embarkation point for sending reinforcements to theBritish Army of the Rhinein the event of a Soviet ground invasion of Europe.

In 1974 a discovery was made atLangdon Bayoff the coast near Dover. It contained bronze axes of French design and is probably the remainder of the cargo of a sunken ship. At the same time, this find also shows that trade routes across the Channel between England and France existed already in theBronze Age,or even earlier. In 1992, the so-called Dover boat from the Bronze Age was discovered in six metres depth underwater. This is one of the oldest finds of a seaworthy boat. Using theradiocarbon methodof investigation, the boat's construction was dated to approximately1550 BC.

Etymology[edit]

First recorded in its Latinised form ofPortus Dubris,the name derives from theBrythonicword for water (dwfrinMiddle Welsh,dŵrinModern Welshapart from'dwfrliw'(Watercolour) which has retained the old Welsh spelling,dourinBreton). The same element is present in the town's French nameDouvresand the name of the river,Dour,which is also evident in other English towns such asWendover.However, the modernModern WelshnameDofris an adaptation of the English nameDover.[9]

The current name was in use at least by the time of Shakespeare'sKing Lear(between 1603 and 1606), in which the town and its cliffs play a prominent role.[10]

The Siege of Dover (1216)[edit]

Main article:Battle of Sandwich (1217)

Louis VIII of Francelanded his army, seeking to deposeKing Henry III,on Dover's mainland beach. Henry III ambushed Louis' army with approximately 400 bowmen atopThe White Cliffs of Doverand his cavalry attacking the invaders on the beach. However, the French slaughtered the English cavalry and made their way up the cliffs to disperse the bowmen. Louis' army seized Dover village, forcing the English back to Canterbury. French control of Dover lasted for three months after which English troops pushed back, forcing the French to surrender and return home.[citation needed]

Geography and climate[edit]

1945 Ordnance Survey map of Dover, showing the harbour

Dover is in the south-east corner of Britain. FromSouth Foreland,the nearest point to the European mainland,Cap Gris Nezis 34 kilometres (21 mi) away across the Strait of Dover.[11]

The site of its original settlement lies in the valley of theRiver Dour,sheltering from the prevailing south-westerly winds. This has led to the silting up of the river mouth by the action oflongshore drift.The town has been forced into making artificial breakwaters to keep the port in being. These breakwaters have been extended and adapted so that the port lies almost entirely on reclaimed land.

The higher land on either side of the valley – theWestern Heightsand the eastern high point on whichDover Castlestands – has been adapted to perform the function of protection against invaders. The town has gradually extended up the river valley, encompassing several villages in doing so. Little growth is possible along the coast, since the cliffs are on the sea's edge. The railway, being tunnelled and embanked, skirts the foot of the cliffs.

Dover has anoceanic climate(Köppen classificationCfb) similar to the rest of the United Kingdom with mild temperatures year-round and a light amount of rainfall each month. The warmest recorded temperature was 37.4 °C (99.3 °F), recorded atLangdon Bayon 25 July 2019,[12]While the lowest recorded temperature was −9.5 °C (14.9 °F), recorded atDover RMSon 31 January 1972.[13]The temperature is usually between 3 °C (37 °F) and 21.1 °C (70.0 °F).

Climate data for Dover Harbour (Beach), elevation: 0 m (0 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1918–present[a]
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 14.5
(58.1) 		16.6
(61.9) 		20.6
(69.1) 		25.0
(77.0) 		26.4
(79.5) 		30.8
(87.4) 		37.4
(99.3) 		33.0
(91.4) 		28.0
(82.4) 		24.1
(75.4) 		17.8
(64.0) 		15.0
(59.0) 		37.4
(99.3)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 8.1
(46.6) 		8.3
(46.9) 		10.6
(51.1) 		12.6
(54.7) 		16.0
(60.8) 		18.5
(65.3) 		20.9
(69.6) 		21.1
(70.0) 		19.0
(66.2) 		15.7
(60.3) 		11.8
(53.2) 		8.9
(48.0) 		14.3
(57.7)
Daily mean °C (°F) 5.9
(42.6) 		6.0
(42.8) 		7.7
(45.9) 		9.7
(49.5) 		12.7
(54.9) 		15.4
(59.7) 		17.6
(63.7) 		17.9
(64.2) 		16.0
(60.8) 		12.9
(55.2) 		9.3
(48.7) 		6.6
(43.9) 		11.5
(52.7)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 3.6
(38.5) 		3.6
(38.5) 		4.7
(40.5) 		6.8
(44.2) 		9.5
(49.1) 		12.4
(54.3) 		14.4
(57.9) 		14.8
(58.6) 		12.9
(55.2) 		10.0
(50.0) 		6.7
(44.1) 		4.3
(39.7) 		8.7
(47.7)
Record low °C (°F) −9.5
(14.9) 		−8.4
(16.9) 		−7.2
(19.0) 		−3.4
(25.9) 		−0.1
(31.8) 		2.2
(36.0) 		5.0
(41.0) 		7.2
(45.0) 		1.7
(35.1) 		−1.1
(30.0) 		−3.9
(25.0) 		−6.1
(21.0) 		−9.5
(14.9)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 79.1
(3.11) 		64.7
(2.55) 		45.9
(1.81) 		56.6
(2.23) 		49.3
(1.94) 		55.1
(2.17) 		52.5
(2.07) 		63.7
(2.51) 		64.3
(2.53) 		98.7
(3.89) 		107.6
(4.24) 		95.0
(3.74) 		832.4
(32.77)
Mean monthlysunshine hours 64.9 82.9 125.0 192.1 214.6 221.8 224.2 223.7 164.5 124.2 72.5 59.2 1,769.7
Source 1:Met Office[14]
Source 2: Starlings Roost Weather[15][16]

Demography[edit]

In 1800, the year before Britain's first national census,Edward Hasted(1732–1812) reported that the town had a population of almost 10,000 people.[17]

At the 2001 census, the town of Dover had 28,156 inhabitants, while the population of the whole urban area of Dover, as calculated by theOffice for National Statistics,was 39,078 inhabitants.[18]

With the expansion of Dover, many of the outlying ancient villages have been incorporated into the town. Originally the parishes of Dover St. Mary's and Dover St. James, since 1836 Buckland and Charlton have become part Dover, and Maxton (a hamlet to the west),River,Kearsney,Temple Ewell,andWhitfield,all to the north of the town centre, are within its conurbation.

Economy[edit]

Retail[edit]

The town's main shopping streets are the High Street, Biggin Street, Market Square, Cannon Street, Pencester Road and Castle Street. The Castleton Retail Park is to the north-west of the town centre. The new St James' Retail and Leisure Park opened in 2018 and is a southern extension of the town centre and consists of shops, restaurants, a Travelodge Hotel and a Cineworld Cinema.[19]

Shipping[edit]

The Port of Dover and theWhite Cliffs of Dover

The Dover Harbour Board[20]is the responsible authority for the running of the Port of Dover. TheEnglish Channel,here at its narrowest point in the Straits of Dover, is the busiest shipping lane in the world. Ferries crossing between here and the Continent have to negotiate their way through the constant stream of shipping crossing their path. TheDover Strait Traffic Separation Schemeallots ships separate lanes when passing through the Strait. The Scheme is controlled by the Channel Navigation Information Service based at Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre Dover. MRCC Dover is also charged with co-ordination of civil maritime search and rescue within these waters.[21]

ThePort of Doveris also used by cruise ships. The oldDover Marine railway stationbuilding houses one passenger terminal, together with a car park. A second, purpose-built, terminal is located further out along the pier.[22]

The ferry lines using the port are (number of daily sailings in parentheses):

These services have been cut in recent years:


Dover Harbour, from the White Cliffs of Dover
Dover Harbour, from theWhite Cliffs of Dover

Main sights[edit]

The Town Hall,which dates back to 1203
Dover Castle White Cliffs of Dover Pines Garden Samphire Hoe Country Park
The castle from the north
White Cliffs seen from the Strait of Dover
The Pines Garden
Samphire Hoe beneath the White Cliffs of Dover

Transport[edit]

Road[edit]

Dover's main communications artery, theA2 roadreplicates two former routes, connecting the town with Canterbury. The Roman road was followed for centuries until, in the late 18th century, it became atoll road.Stagecoacheswere operating: one description stated that the journey took all day to reach London, from 4am to being "in time for supper".[26]

The other main roads, travelling west and east, are theA20toFolkestoneand thence theM20to London, and theA258through Deal to Sandwich.

In December 2020, a long line of freight trucks formed due to sudden border closures with France, because of new strains ofCOVID-19within the United Kingdom.[27][28][29][30]

Rail[edit]

The railway reached Dover from two directions: theSouth Eastern Railway'smain line connected with Folkestone in 1844, and theLondon, Chatham & Dover Railwayopened its line from Canterbury in 1861.Southeasterntrains run fromDover PriorytoLondon Charing Cross,London VictoriaorLondon St Pancras Internationalstations in London, andRamsgateorSandwichin Kent. With the introduction of the high-speed service into St Pancras International viaHigh Speed 1,rail journey times between London and Dover were reduced to 55 minutes non-stop.

TheChatham Main Lineinto Priory was electrified underBritish Railwaysin 1959 as part of Stage 1 of Kent Coast Electrification, under the BR1955 Modernisation Plan.[31]The line up to Ramsgate, via Deal, was subsequently electrified under stage two of Kent Coast electrification in January 1961.[31]The line from Folkestone into Priory was electrified in June 1961.[31]

Atram systemoperated in the town from 1897 to 1936.

View of the White Cliffs of Dover from France

Walking[edit]

Dover has twolong distance footpaths:theSaxon Shore Wayand theNorth Downs Way.TheNational TrustWhite Cliffs can be reached by foot from the town centre, with pathways toSouth Foreland Lighthouse,and St Margarets Bay along the cliff top. The walking routes from Dover pass theNational Trustvisitor centre on the landmark chalk cliffs overlooking theEnglish Channelwith views of France visible on a clear day.

Cycling[edit]

TwoNational Cycle Networkroutes begin their journey at the town. Route one goes from Dover to Canterbury.[32] This route links withNational Cycle Route 2from Dover to St Austell, Regional route 16, and Regional route 17 in Dover. It passes three castles. Firstly from Dover on the steap incline past Dover Castle. ThenSouth Foreland Lighthouseis visible from the route. Mostly traffic-free along the east coast from Kingsdown to Deal, passingWalmer CastleandDeal Castle.Follows toll road (free to cyclists) through the Royal Cinque Ports Golf Club to the town of Sandwich. In Sandwich the route links with Regional route 15. Dover town centre is cycle friendly: There are dedicated cycle lanes along the seafront and cycle routes through the town's pedestrianised High Street area.

Ferry[edit]

ThePort of Doveris a 20-minute walk fromDover Priory railway station. The port offers crossings to bothCalais(DFDS, P&O and Irish Ferries) andDunkerque(DFDS). The Dover toDunkirkferry route was originally operated by ferry operatorNorfolkline.This company was later acquired by the pan European operatorDFDS Seawaysin July 2010.[33]The crossing time is approximately two hours.[34]The location ofDunkirkis also more convenient for those travelling by road transport on to countries in Northern Europe includingBelgium,theNetherlands,Germany and further afield.

Bus[edit]

Stagecoach in East Kentprovide local bus services. Dover is on the Stagecoach Diamond network providing links toCanterburyandDeal.The Western Docks at the port of Dover are served from the town centre as well as Canterbury and Deal. Dover is the start ofThe Wave networktoNew RomneyviaFolkestone,HytheandDymchurch.There are services toLyddviaLydd Airport,with one continuing from Lydd on toHastingsviaCamberandRye.There is a link toSandwich.Buses run from Dover toElvingtonviaEythorne.[citation needed]

National Expressruns coaches from Dover to other towns inKentincluding Canterbury, Folkestone,Ashford, Kent,Maidstone,Gillinghamat Hempsted Valley shopping centre andGreenhitheatBluewater Shopping CentreforDartfordto London includingBexleyheath,Eltham,Walworth,Canary Wharf,Elephant & Castle,The city (The City of London) and toVictoria Coach Station.[citation needed]

RNLI[edit]

The Dover lifeboat is aSevern class lifeboatbased in the Western Docks.[35] Dover Lifeboat station is based at crosswall quay in Dover Harbour. There is aSevern-class lifeboat,which is the biggest in the fleet. It belongs to theRNLIwhich covers all of Great Britain. The lifeboat number is 17–09 and has a lot of emergencies in the Channel. The Severn class is designed to lay afloat. Built from fibre reinforced composite (FRC) the boat is lightweight yet very strong and is designed to right itself in the event of a capsize.

Education[edit]

Further information:List of schools in Kent

There are seven secondary level schools serving Dover.

Public schools

Dover Collegeis a mixedpublic schoolfounded in 1871 by a group of local business men.[36]

Selective secondary schools

There are 2 single-sex grammar schools and a mixed military school.

Both grammar schools require the Dover Test or the Kent Test for admission to Year 7.

Duke of York's Royal Military Schoolis a selective secondary school withacademy statusand England's only military boarding school for children of service personnel (co-education ages 11–18), located next to the former site ofConnaught Barracks.

Non-selective secondary schools

There are 3 ex-secondary modernmixed schools, all withacademy status.

Astor Secondary Schoolfederatedwith St Radigunds Primary School (then renamed White Cliffs Primary College for the Arts) to form the Dover Federation for the Arts (DFA). Subsequently, Barton Junior School and Shatterlocks Nursery and Infant School joined the DFA. In 2014 the DFA was warned by the Department for Education about "unacceptably low standards of performance of pupils".[37]

St Edmund's Catholic Schoolfederated with St Richards Catholic Primary School to form the Dover Federation of Catholic Schools.

Dover Christ Church Academyis located in Whitfield, 4 miles north of Dover.

Technical College

Dover Technical College is part of theEast Kent College(EKC) group.

In addition, 16 primary schools and 2 special schools add to the educational offering.

Public services[edit]

Dover has one hospital,Buckland Hospital.[38]Earlier hospitals included theRoyal Victoria Hospital,the Isolation Hospital and the Eye Hospital.

Local media[edit]

Television[edit]

Local news and television programmes are provided byBBC South EastandITV Meridian.Television signals are received from the nearbyDoverTV transmitter situated south of the town[39]and a local relay transmitter in the centre of Dover.[40]

Dover was the home to television studios and production offices ofSouthern TelevisionLtd, the company which operated the ITV franchise for South and South East England from 1958 to 1981. The studios were located on Russell Street and were home to programmes like 'Scene South East', 'Scene Midweek', 'Southern News', 'Farm Progress' and the nightly epilogue, 'Guideline'. The studios were operated by TVS in 1982 and home to 'Coast to Coast', however they closed a year later when the company moved their operations to the newly complete Television Centre inMaidstone.

Newspapers[edit]

Dover has two paid for newspapers, theDover Express(published by Kent Regional News and Media) and theDover Mercury(published by theKM Group). Free newspapers for the town previously included theDover and Deal Extra,part of the KM Group; andyourdover,part ofKOS Media.

Radio[edit]

Dover has one local commercial radio station,KMFM Shepway and White Cliffs Country,broadcasting to Dover on 106.8FM. The station was founded in Dover as Neptune Radio in September 1997 but moved to Folkestone in 2003 and was consequently rebranded after a takeover by the KM Group. Dover is also served by the county-wide stationsHeart South,GoldandBBC Radio Kent.

The Gateway Hospital Broadcasting Service, in Buckland Hospital radio, closed at the end of 2006. It was the oldest hospital radio station in East Kent being founded in 1968.[41]

DCR 104.9FM (Dover Community Radio) started broadcasting on 104.9FM in May 2022 and is Dover and White Cliffs Country's community radio station. The online station of the same name launched on 30 July 2011 offering local programmes, music and news for Dover and district. Prior to this DCR was an online podcasting service since 2010..[42]Dover Community Radio was awarded a community radio licence by OFCOM on 12 May 2020.[43]

As of November 2021, BFBS Gurkha Radio has been broadcasting on 90.8FM in Dover and can be picked up within 1 mile of its transmission site at the Dover Community Centre located at Burgoyne Heights. This is part of a trial broadcast of small scale FM services by OFCOM due to end in September 2022 but it maybe extended to serve the Gurkha community living at Burgoyne Heights.

Culture[edit]

There are three museums: the mainDover Museum,[44]the Dover Transport Museum[45]and theRoman Painted House.[46]The town has two cinemas, the Silver Screen Cinema[47]located at the Dover Museum and the Cineworld Cinema opened in 2018 as part of the St James' Retail and Leisure complex.[19]The Discovery Centre located off the Market Square houses Dover's library, Dover Museum, Silver Screen Cinema, the Roundhouse Community Theatre as well as adult education facilities.[48]The Charlton Shopping Centre[49]off the High Street has retail units, the Dover Local community hub, leisure facilities and the studios of Dover Community Radio.[50]The White Cliffs Theatre opened in 2001[51]is based at Astor College.[52]There is also a community theatre based at St Edmund's Catholic School[53]

Twin towns[edit]

See also:List of twin towns and sister cities in the United Kingdom

Sports[edit]

Dover District Leisure Centre operated by Places Leisure[56]located in Whitfield opened in March 2019 replacing the previous facility on Townwall Street, which was operated by Your Leisure, a not for profit charitable trust,[57]which caters for sports and includes a swimming pool.

There are sports clubs, among themDover Athletic F.C.,who play in theNational League;rugby; swimming; water polo and netball (Dover and District Netball League).[58]

Dover Rowing Club is the oldest coastal rowing club in Britain and has a rich history, at one time becoming the best club on the south coast. More information can be found on the history page of the club's website.[59]

One event which gets media attention is that ofswimming the English Channel.[60]

Sea fishing, from the beach, pier or out at sea, is carried out here.[61]The so-calledDover sole(solea solea) is found all over European waters.

Dover is now the host of a variety of watersports; such as paddle-boarding and kayaking.

Notable people[edit]

Further information:List of people from Dover

In literature[edit]

In song[edit]

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^Extreme temperature were recorded at Dover (1918–1961), Dover RMS (1959–1979), Dover No. 2 (2000–2002) and Langdon Bay (1989–present)

References[edit]

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  41. ^[1][permanent dead link]
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Bibliography[edit]

  • Statham, S.P.H. (1899).The history of the castle, town, and port of Dover.London: Longmans Green & Co. pp. 462 p.
  • Foot, William (2006).Beaches, fields, streets, and hills...: the anti-invasion landscapes of England, 1940.CBA research report144.York: Council for British Archaeology.ISBN1-902771-53-2.

External links[edit]

Wikimedia Commons has media related toDover.
Wikivoyage has a travel guide forDover.
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