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Lake Baikal

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Coordinates:53°30′N108°0′E/ 53.500°N 108.000°E/53.500; 108.000
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Lake Baikal
Satellite photo of Baikal, 2001
Lake Baikal is located in Republic of Buryatia
Lake Baikal
Lake Baikal
Lake Baikal is located in Irkutsk Oblast
Lake Baikal
Lake Baikal
Lake Baikal is located in Russia
Lake Baikal
Lake Baikal
LocationSiberia,Russia
Coordinates53°30′N108°0′E/ 53.500°N 108.000°E/53.500; 108.000
Lake typeAncient lake,Continental rift lake
Primary inflowsSelenga,Barguzin,Upper Angara
Primary outflowsAngara
Catchment area560,000 km2(216,000 sq mi)
BasincountriesMongoliaandRussia
Max. length636 km (395 mi)
Max. width79 km (49 mi)
Surface area31,722 km2(12,248 sq mi)[1]
Average depth744.4 m (2,442 ft; 407.0 fathoms)[1]
Max. depth1,642 m (5,387 ft; 898 fathoms)[1]
Water volume23,610 km3(5,660 cu mi)[1]
Residence time330 years[2]
Shore length12,100 km (1,300 mi)
Surface elevation455.5 m (1,494 ft)
FrozenJanuary–May
Islands27 (Olkhon Island)
SettlementsSeverobaykalsk,Slyudyanka,Baykalsk,Ust-Barguzin
CriteriaNatural: vii, viii, ix, x
Reference754
Inscription1996 (20thSession)
Area8,800,000 ha
1Shore length isnot a well-defined measure.

Lake Baikal(/baɪˈkɑːl,-ˈkæl/by-KAHL,-⁠KAL;[3]‹See Tfd›Russian:Озеро Байкал,romanized:Ozero Baykal[ˈozʲɪrəbɐjˈkaɫ];Buryat:Байгал далай,romanized:Baigal dalai[4]) is the deepestrift lakein the world. It is situated in southernSiberia,Russiabetween thefederal subjectsofIrkutskOblastto the northwest and theRepublic of Buryatiato the southeast.

At 31,722 km2(12,248 sq mi)—slightly larger thanBelgium—Lake Baikal is the world'sseventh-largest lakeby surface area,[5]as well as the second largest lake inEurasiaafter theCaspian Sea.However, because it is also thedeepest lake,[6]with a maximum depth of 1,642 metres (5,387feet;898fathoms),[1]Lake Baikal is the world'slargestfreshwaterlake by volume, containing 23,615.39 km3(5,670 cu mi) of water[1]or 22–23% of the world's freshsurface water,[7][8]more than all of theNorth AmericanGreat Lakescombined.[9]It is also the world'soldest lake[10]at 25–30 million years,[11][12]and among the clearest.[13]

Lake Baikal is home to thousands of species ofplantsand animals, many of themendemicto the region. It is also home toBuryattribes, who raise goats,camels,cattle,sheep,and horses[14]on the eastern side of the lake,[15]where the mean temperature varies from a winter minimum of −19 °C (−2 °F) to a summer maximum of 14 °C (57 °F).[16]The region to the east of Lake Baikal is referred to asTransbaikaliaor as the Transbaikal,[17]and the loosely defined region around the lake itself is sometimes known asBaikalia.UNESCOdeclared Baikal aWorld Heritage Sitein 1996.[18]

Geography and hydrography

[edit]
TheYeniseybasin, which includes Lake Baikal
Adigital elevation modelof Lake Baikal region

Lake Baikal is in a rift valley, created by theBaikal Rift Zone,where the Earth's crust is slowly pulling apart.[5]At 636 km (395 mi) long and 79 km (49 mi) wide, Lake Baikal has the largest surface area of any freshwater lake in Asia, at 31,722 km2(12,248 sq mi), and is the deepest lake in the world at 1,642 metres (5,387 feet; 898 fathoms). The surface of the lake is 455.5 m (1,494 ft) above sea level, while the bottom of the lake is 1,186.5 m (3,893 ft; 648.8 fathoms) below sea level, and below this lies some 7 km (4.3 mi) ofsediment,placing the rift floor some 8–11 km (5.0–6.8 mi) below the surface, the deepest continentalrifton Earth.[5]

In geological terms, the rift is young and active – it widens about 4 mm (0.16 in) per year.[19]The fault zone is also seismically active; hot springs occur in the area and notableearthquakeshappen every few years. The lake is divided into three basins: North, Central, and South, with depths about 900 m (3,000 ft), 1,600 m (5,200 ft), and 1,400 m (4,600 ft), respectively. Fault-controlled accommodation zones rising to depths about 300 m (980 ft) separate the basins. The North and Central basins are separated byAcademician Ridge,while the area around the Selenga Delta and the Buguldeika Saddle separates the Central and South basins. The lake drains into theAngara,a tributary of theYenisey.Landforms includeCape Rytyon Baikal's northwest coast.

Baikal's age is estimated at 25–30 million years, making it the mostancient lakeingeologicalhistory.[11][12]It is unique among large, high-latitude lakes, as its sediments have not been scoured by overriding continental ice sheets. Russian, U.S., and Japanese cooperative studies of deep-drilling core sediments in the 1990s provide a detailed record of climatic variation over the past 6.7 million years.[20][21]

Longer and deeper sediment cores are expected in the near future.[needs update]Lake Baikal is the only confined freshwater lake in which direct and indirect evidence ofgas hydratesexists.[22][23][24]

The lake is surrounded by mountains; theBaikal Mountainson the north shore, theBarguzin Rangeon the northeastern shore and thePrimorsky Rangestretching along the western shore. The mountains and thetaigaare protected as a national park. It contains 27 islands; the largest,Olkhon,is 72 km (45 mi) long and is the third-largest lake-bound island in the world. The lake is fed by as many as 330 inflowing rivers.[25]The main ones draining directly into Baikal are theSelenga,theBarguzin,theUpper Angara,theTurka,theSarma,and theSnezhnaya.It is drained through a single outlet, theAngara.

Regular winds exist in Baikal's rift valley.[26]

Water characteristics

[edit]
Lake Baikal's water is especially clear

Baikal is one of the clearest lakes in the world.[13]During the winter, the water transparency in open sections can be as much as 30–40 m (100–130 ft), but during the summer it is typically 5–8 m (15–25 ft).[27]Baikal is rich in oxygen, even in deep sections,[27]which separates it from distinctlystratifiedbodies of water such asLake Tanganyikaand theBlack Sea.[28][29]

In Lake Baikal, the water temperature varies significantly depending on location, depth, and time of the year. During the winter and spring, the surface freezes for about 4–5 months; from early January to early May–June (latest in the north), the lake surface is covered in ice.[30]On average, the ice reaches a thickness of 0.5 to 1.4 m (1.6–4.6 ft),[31]but in some places withhummocks,it can be more than 2 m (6.6 ft).[30]During this period, the temperature slowly increases with depth in the lake, being coldest near the ice-covered surface at around freezing, and reaching about 3.5–3.8 °C (38.3–38.8 °F) at a depth of 200–250 m (660–820 ft).[32]After the surface ice breaks up, the surface water is slowly warmed up by the sun, and in May–June, the upper 300 m (980 ft) or so becomes homothermic (same temperature throughout) at around 4 °C (39 °F) because of water mixing.[27][32]The sun continues to heat up the surface layer, and at the peak in August can reach up to about 16 °C (61 °F) in the main sections[32]and 20–24 °C (68–75 °F) in shallow bays in the southern half of the lake.[27][33]During this time, the pattern is inverted compared to the winter and spring, as the water temperature falls with increasing depth. As the autumn begins, the surface temperature falls again and a second homothermic period at around 4 °C (39 °F) of the upper circa 300 m (980 ft) occurs in October–November.[27][32]In the deepest parts of the lake, from about 300 m (980 ft), the temperature is stable at 3.1–3.4 °C (37.6–38.1 °F) with only minor annual variations.[32]

The average surface temperature has risen by almost 1.5 °C (2.7 °F) in the last 50 years, resulting in a shorter period where the lake is covered by ice.[12]At some locations,hydrothermal ventswith water that is about 50 °C (122 °F) have been found. These are mostly in deep water but locally have also been found in relatively shallow water. They have little effect on the lake's temperature because of its huge volume.[32]

Stormy weather on the lake is common, especially during the summer and autumn, and can result in waves as high as 4.5 m (15 ft).[27]

  • Lake Baikal as seen from the OrbView-2 satellite
    Lake Baikal as seen from theOrbView-2satellite
  • Spring ice melt underway on Lake Baikal, on 4 May: Notice the ice-covered north, while much of the south is already ice-free.
    Spring ice melt underway on Lake Baikal, on 4 May: Notice the ice-covered north, while much of the south is already ice-free.
  • Circle of thin ice, diameter of 4.4 km (2.7 mi) at the lake's southern tip, probably caused by convection
    Circle of thin ice, diameter of 4.4 km (2.7 mi) at the lake's southern tip, probably caused byconvection
  • Delta of the Selenga River, Baikal's main tributary
    Delta of theSelenga River,Baikal's main tributary

Fauna and flora

[edit]
TheBaikal sealis endemic to Lake Baikal.

Lake Baikal is rich inbiodiversity.It hosts more than 1,000 species of plants and 2,500 species of animals based on current knowledge, but the actual figures for both groups are believed to be significantly higher.[27][34]More than 80% of the animals areendemic.[34]

Flora

[edit]

The watershed of Lake Baikal has numerous floral species represented. Themarsh thistle(Cirsium palustre) is found here at the eastern limit of its geographic range.[35]

Submerged macrophyticvascular plantsare mostly absent, except in some shallow bays along the shores of Lake Baikal.[36]More than 85 species of submergedmacrophyteshave been recorded, including genera such asCeratophyllum,Myriophyllum,Potamogeton,andSparganium.[33]Theinvasive speciesElodea canadensiswas introduced to the lake in the 1950s.[36]Instead of vascular plants, aquatic flora is often dominated by severalgreen algaespecies, notablyDraparnaldioides,Tetraspora,andUlothrixin water shallower than 20 m (65 ft); althoughAegagrophila,Cladophora,andDraparnaldioidesmay occur deeper than 30 m (100 ft).[36]Except forUlothrix,there are endemic Baikal species in all these green algae genera.[36]More than 400diatomspecies, bothbenthicandplanktonic,are found in the lake, and about half of these are endemic to Baikal; however, significanttaxonomicuncertainties remain for this group.[36]

Fauna

[edit]

Mammals

[edit]
Baikal seal

TheBaikal sealornerpa(Pusa sibirica) is endemic to Lake Baikal.[37]

A wide range of land mammals can be found in the habitats around the lake, such as thebrown bear(Ursus arctos),Eurasian wolf(Canis lupus lupus),red fox(Vulpes vulpes),sable(Martes zibellina),stoat(Mustela erminea),Eurasian otter(Lutra lutra),snow leopard(Panthera uncia),moose(Alces alces),elk(Cervus canadensis),reindeer(Rangifer tarandus),Siberian roe deer(Capreolus pygargus),Siberian musk deer((Moschus moschiferus),wild boar(Sus scrofa),red squirrel(Sciurus vulgaris),Siberian chipmunk(Eutamias sibiricus),marmots(Marmotasp.),lemmings(Lemmussp.), andmountain hare(Lepus timidus).[38]Until theEarly Middle Ages,populations of theEuropean bison(Bison bonasus) were found near the lake; this represented the easternmost range of the species.[39]

Birds

[edit]
Mongolian gullson Baikal

There are 236 species of birds that inhabit Lake Baikal, 29 of which arewaterfowl.[40]Although named after the lake, both theBaikal tealandBaikal bush warblerare widespread in eastern Asia.[41][42]

Fish

[edit]
Two species ofgrayling(Thymallus baikalensisandT. brevipinnis) are found only in Baikal and rivers that drain into the lake.[43][44]

Fewer than 65 native fish species occur in the lake basin, but more than half of these are endemic.[27][45]The familiesAbyssocottidae(deep-water sculpins),Comephoridae(golomyankas or Baikal oilfish), andCottocomephoridae(Baikal sculpins) are entirely restricted to the lake basin.[27][46]All these are part of theCottoideaand are typically less than 20 cm (8 in) long.[36]Of particular note are the two species ofgolomyanka(Comephorus baicalensisandC. dybowskii). These long-finned, translucent fish typically live in open water at depths of 100–500 m (330–1,640 ft), but occur both shallower and much deeper. Together with certain abyssocottid sculpins, they are the deepest living freshwater fish in the world, occurring near the bottom of Lake Baikal.[47]The golomyankas are the primary prey of the Baikal seal and represent the largest fishbiomassin the lake.[48]Beyond members of Cottoidea, there are few endemic fish species in the lake basin.[27][45]

Theomul(Coregonus migratorius) isendemicto Lake Baikal, and is a source of income to locals.

The most important local species for fisheries is theomul(Coregonus migratorius), an endemicwhitefish.[27]It is caught,smoked,and then sold widely in markets around the lake. Also, a second endemic whitefish inhabits the lake,C. baicalensis.[49]TheBaikal black grayling(Thymallus baicalensis),Baikal white grayling(T. brevipinnis), andBaikal sturgeon(Acipenser baerii baicalensis) are other important species with commercial value. They are also endemic to the Lake Baikal basin.[43][44][50][51]

Invertebrates

[edit]

The lake hosts a rich endemic fauna of invertebrates. ThecopepodEpischura baikalensisis endemic to Lake Baikal and the dominatingzooplanktonspecies there, making up 80 to 90% of the totalbiomass.[52]It is estimated that they filter as much as a thousand cubic kilometers of water a year, or the lake's entire volume every twenty-three years.[53]

Among the most diverse invertebrate groups are theamphipodandostracodcrustaceans,freshwater snails,annelidworms andturbellarianworms:

Amphipod, isopod, cladoceran and ostracod crustaceans

[edit]
A "giant"Brachyuropus reicherti(Acanthogammaridae) amphipod caught duringice fishingin the lake. Red-orange is its natural, living coloration

More than 350 species and subspecies of amphipods are endemic to the lake.[34]They are exceptionally diverse inecologyand appearance, ranging from the pelagicMacrohectopusto the relatively large deep-waterAbyssogammarusandGarjajewia,the tiny herbivorousMicruropus,and the parasiticPachyschesis(parasitic on otheramphipods).[54]The "gigantism" of some Baikal amphipods, which has been compared to that seen in Antarctic amphipods, has been linked to the high level of dissolved oxygen in the lake.[55]Among the "giants" are several species of spinyAcanthogammarusandBrachyuropus(Acanthogammaridae) found at both shallow and deep depths.[56]These conspicuous and common amphipods are essentially carnivores (will also takedetritus), and can reach a body length up to 7 cm (2.8 in).[54][56]

The number ofisopodsis low; they belong to the familyAsellidae.There are four species of the genusBaicalasellus,and the two species Mesoasellus dybowskii and Limnoasellus poberezhnii.[57][58]These six endemic species are found on rocky substrata in depths varying from 3–10 meters (Baicalasellus angarensis) to more than hundred meters (Mesoasellus dybowskii).[59]

There are about 60 known species ofcladocerans(water fleas), several of them endemic.[60]

Similar to another ancient lake,Tanganyika,Baikal is a center for ostracod diversity. About 90% of the Lake Baikal ostracods are endemic,[61]meaning that there arec.200 endemic species.[62]This makes it the second-most diverse group of crustacean in the lake, after the amphipods.[61]The vast majority of the Baikal ostracods belong to the familiesCandonidae(more than 100 described species) andCytherideidae(about 50 described species),[61][63]but genetic studies indicate that the true diversity in at least the latter family has been heavily underestimated.[64]The morphology of the Baikal ostracods is highly diverse.[61]

Snails and bivalves

[edit]

As of 2006,almost 150 freshwater snails are known from Lake Baikal, including 117 endemic species from the subfamiliesBaicaliinae(part of theAmnicolidae) andBenedictiinae(part of theLithoglyphidae), and the familiesPlanorbidaeandValvatidae.[65]All endemics have been recorded between 20 and 30 m (66 and 98 ft), but the majority mainly live at shallower depths.[65]About 30 freshwater snail species can be seen deeper than 100 m (330 ft), which represents the approximate limit of thesunlight zone,but only 10 are truly deepwater species.[65]In general, Baikal snails are thin-shelled and small. Two of the most common species areBenedictiabaicalensisandMegalovalvata baicalensis.[66]Bivalvediversity is lower with more than 30 species; about half of these, all in the familiesEuglesidae,Pisidiidae,andSphaeriidae,are endemic (the only other family in the lake is theUnionidaewith a single nonendemic species).[66][67]The endemic bivalves are mainly found in shallows, with few species from deep water.[68]

Aquatic worms

[edit]

With almost 200 described species, including more than 160 endemics, the center of diversity for aquatic freshwateroligochaetesis Lake Baikal.[69]A smaller number of other freshwater annelids is known: 30 species ofleeches(Hirudinea),[70]and 4polychaetes.[69]Several hundred species ofnematodesare known from the lake, but a large percentage of these areundescribed.[69]

More than 140 endemicflatworm(Plathelminthes) species are in Lake Baikal, where they occur on a wide range of bottom types.[71]Most of the flatworms are predatory, and some are relatively brightly marked. They are often abundant in shallow waters, where they are typically less than 2 cm (1 in) long, but in deeper parts of the lake, the largest,Baikaloplana valida,can reach up to 30 cm (1 ft) when outstretched.[36][71]

Museum specimen of the branching spongeLubomirskia baicalensis(living are brighter green)

Sponges

[edit]

At least 18 species ofspongesoccur in the lake,[72]including about 15 species from the endemic familyLubomirskiidae(the remaining are from the nonendemic familySpongillidae),[73][74]which colonized the lake about 3.4 million years ago. The lake's sponges makes up around 44% of thebenthicanimal biomass.[75]Lubomirskia baicalensis,Baikalospongia bacillifera,andB. intermediaare unusually large for freshwater sponges and can reach 1 m (3.3 ft) or more.[72][76]These three are also the most common sponges in the lake.[72]While theBaikalospongiaspecies typically have encrusting or carpet-like structures,L. baikalensisoften has branching structures and in areas where common may form underwater "forests".[77]Most sponges in the lake are typically green when alive because ofsymbioticchlorophytes(zoochlorella), but can also be brownish or yellowish.[78]

History

[edit]

The Baikal area, sometimes known asBaikalia,has a long history of human habitation. Near the village of Mal'ta, some 160 km northwest of the lake, remains of a young human male known asMA-1or "Mal'ta Boy" are indications of local habitation by theMal'ta–Buret' cultureca. 24,000BP.An early known tribe in the area was theKurykans.[79]

Located in the former northern territory of theXiongnuconfederation, Lake Baikal is one site of theHan–Xiongnu War,where the armies of theHan dynastypursued and defeated the Xiongnu forces from the second century BC to the first century AD. They recorded that the lake was a "huge sea" (hanhai) and designated it the North Sea (Běihǎi) of the semimythicalFour Seas.[80]The Kurykans, a Siberian tribe who inhabited the area in the sixth century, gave it a name that translates to "much water". Later on, it was called "natural lake" (Baygal nuur) by the Buryats and "rich lake" (Bay göl) by the Yakuts.[81] Little was known to Europeans about the lake until Russia expanded into the area in the 1600s. The firstRussian explorerto reach Lake Baikal wasKurbat Ivanovin 1643.[82]

Lake Baikal was under theAnbei Protectorateof theTang dynastyfrom 647 CE to 682 CE.

Russian expansion into the Buryat area around Lake Baikal[83]in 1628–1658 was part of theRussian conquest of Siberia.It was done first by following the Angara River upstream fromYeniseysk(founded 1619) and later by moving south from the Lena River. Russians first heard of the Buryats in 1609 at Tomsk. According to folktales related a century after the fact, in 1623,Demid Pyanda,who may have been the first Russian to reach the Lena, crossed from the upper Lena to the Angara and arrived at Yeniseysk.[84]

Vikhor Savin (1624) andMaksim Perfilyev(1626 and 1627–28) exploredTunguscountry on the lower Angara. To the west,Krasnoyarskon the upper Yenisei was founded in 1627. A number of ill-documented expeditions explored eastward from Krasnoyarsk. In 1628,Pyotr Beketovfirst encountered a group of Buryats and collectedyasak(tribute) from them at the future site ofBratsk.In 1629, Yakov Khripunov set off from Tomsk to find a rumored silver mine. His men soon began plundering both Russians and natives. They were joined by another band of rioters from Krasnoyarsk, but left the Buryat country when they ran short of food. This made it difficult for other Russians to enter the area. In 1631, Maksim Perfilyev built anostrogat Bratsk. The pacification was moderately successful, but in 1634, Bratsk was destroyed and its garrison killed. In 1635, Bratsk was restored by a punitive expedition under Radukovskii. In 1638, it was besieged unsuccessfully.[citation needed]

In 1638, Perfilyev crossed from the Angara over the Ilim portage to theLena Riverand went downstream as far asOlyokminsk.Returning, he sailed up theVitim Riverinto the area east of Lake Baikal (1640) where he heard reports of the Amur country. In 1641, Verkholensk was founded on the upper Lena. In 1643,Kurbat Ivanovwent further up the Lena and became the first Russian to see Lake Baikal andOlkhon Island.Half his party under Skorokhodov remained on the lake, reached theUpper Angaraat its northern tip, and wintered on the Barguzin River on the northeast side.[citation needed]

In 1644, Ivan Pokhabov went up the Angara to Baikal, becoming perhaps the first Russian to use this route, which is difficult because of the rapids. He crossed the lake and explored the lowerSelenge River.About 1647, he repeated the trip, obtained guides, and visited a 'Tsetsen Khan' nearUlan Bator.In 1648, Ivan Galkin built anostrogon the Barguzin River which became a center for eastward expansion. In 1652, Vasily Kolesnikov reported from Barguzin that one could reach the Amur country by following the Selenga, Uda, and Khilok Rivers to the future sites ofChitaandNerchinsk.[citation needed]

TheTrans-Siberian Railwaywas built between 1896 and 1902. Construction of the scenicrailway around the southwestern end of Lake Baikalrequired 200 bridges and 33 tunnels. Until its completion, atrain ferrytransported railcars across the lake fromPort BaikaltoMysovayafor a number of years. The lake became the site of the minorengagementbetween theCzechoslovak legionand theRed Armyin 1918. At times during winter freezes, the lake could be crossed on foot, though at risk offrostbiteand deadlyhypothermiafrom the cold wind moving unobstructed across flat expanses of ice. In the winter of 1920, theGreat Siberian Ice Marchoccurred, when the retreatingWhite Russian Armycrossed frozen Lake Baikal. The wind on the exposed lake was so cold, many people died, freezing in place until spring thaw. Beginning in 1956, the impounding of theIrkutsk Damon the Angara River raised the level of the lake by 1.4 m (4.6 ft).[85]

As the railway was built, a large hydrogeographical expedition headed byF.K. Drizhenkoproduced the first detailed contour map of the lake bed.[10]

Research

[edit]
Ice cover survey on the lake

Several organizations are carrying out natural research projects on Lake Baikal. Most of them are governmental or associated with governmental organizations. TheBaikalian Research Centreis an independent research organization carrying out environmental, educational and research projects at Lake Baikal.[86]

In July 2008, Russia sent two smallsubmersibles,Mir-1andMir-2,to descend 1,592 m (5,223 ft) to the bottom of Lake Baikal to conduct geological and biological tests on its unique ecosystem. Although originally reported as being successful, they did not set a world record for the deepest freshwater dive, reaching a depth of only 1,580 m (5,180 ft).[87]That record is currently held byAnatoly Sagalevich,at 1,637 m (5,371 ft) (also in Lake Baikal aboard aPiscessubmersible in 1990).[87][88]Russian scientist and federal politicianArtur Chilingarov,the leader of the mission, took part in the Mir dives[89]as did Russian presidentVladimir Putin.[90]

Since 1993,neutrinoresearch has been conducted at theBaikal Deep Underwater Neutrino Telescope(BDUNT). The Baikal Neutrino Telescope NT-200 is being deployed in Lake Baikal, 3.6 km (2.2 mi) from shore at a depth of 1.1 km (0.68 mi). It consists of 192 optical modules.[91]

Economy

[edit]
Baikal fishermen fish for 15 commercially used species. Theomul,found only in Baikal, accounts for most of the catch.[92]

The lake, nicknamed "the Pearl of Siberia", drew investors from the tourist industry as energy revenues sparked an economic boom.[93]Viktor Grigorov's Grand Baikal inIrkutskis one of the investors, who planned to build three hotels, creating 570 jobs. In 2007, the Russian government declared the Baikal region aspecial economic zone.A popular resort inListvyankais home to the seven-story Hotel Mayak. At the northern part of the lake, Baikalplan (a German NGO) built together with Russians in 2009 theFrolikha Adventure Coastline Track,a 100 km (62 mi)-longlong-distance trailas an example for sustainable development of the region. Baikal was also declared a UNESCOWorld Heritagesite in 1996.Rosatomplans to build a laboratory near Baikal, in conjunction with an internationaluraniumplant and to invest $2.5 billion in the region and create 2,000 jobs in the city ofAngarsk.[93]

Lake Baikal is a popular destination among tourists from all over the world. According to the Russian Federal State Statistics Service, in 2013, 79,179 foreign tourists visited Irkutsk and Lake Baikal; in 2014, 146,937 visitors. The most popular places to stay by the lake are Listvyanka village, Olkhon Island, Kotelnikovsky cape, Baykalskiy Priboi,resort Khakusyand Turka village. The popularity of Lake Baikal is growing from year to year, but there is no developed infrastructure in the area. For the quality of service and comfort from the visitor's point of view, Lake Baikal still has a long way to go.

The ice road to Olkhon Island is the only legal ice road on Lake Baikal. The route is prepared by specialists every year and it opens when the ice conditions allow it. In 2015, the ice road to Olkhon was open from 17 February to 23 March. The thickness of the ice on the road is about 60 cm (24 in), maximum capacity allowed – 10 t (9.8 long tons; 11 short tons); it is open to the public from 9 am to 6 pm. The road through the lake is 12 km (7.5 mi) long and it goes from the village Kurkut on the mainland to Irkutskaya Guba on Olkhon Island.[94]

Ecotourism

[edit]
Cracks in Baikal ice

Baikal has a number of different tourist activities, depending on the season. Generally, Baikal has two top tourist seasons. The first season is ice season, which starts usually in mid-January and lasts till mid-April.[95]During this season ice depth increases up to 140 centimeters, that allows safe vehicle driving on the ice cover (except heavy vehicles, such as tourist buses, that do not take this risk). This allows access to the figures of ice that are formed at rocky banks ofOlkhon Island,including Cape Hoboy, the Three Brothers rock, and caves to the north ofKhuzhir.It also provides access to small islands likeOgoy Islandand Zamogoy.

The ice itself has a transparency of one meter depth.[citation needed]That is why this season is popular for hiking, ice-walking, ice-skating, and bicycle riding.[96]An ice route around Olkhon is around 200 km. Some tourists may spot aBaikal sealalong the route. Local entrepreneurs offer overnight inyurton ice.

The ice season ends in mid-April. Owing to increasing temperatures ice starts to melt and becomes shallow and fragile, especially in places with strong under-ice flows. A range of factors contribute to an increased risk of falling through the ice towards the end of the season, resulting in multiple deaths in Russia each year, although exact data for Baikal are unknown.[97]Viktor Viktorovych Yanukovych,son of former Ukrainian PresidentViktor Yanukovych,reportedly died after his car fell through the ice while driving on Baikal in 2015.[98][99]

The second tourist season is summer, which lets tourists dive deeper into virgin Baikal nature. Hiking trails become open,[100]many of them cross two mountain ranges:Baikal Rangeon the western side andBarguzin Rangeon the eastern side of Baikal.

Small tourist vessels operate in the area, availing bird-watching, animal-watching (especiallyBaikal seal), and fishing. Water in the lake stays extremely cold in most places (does not exceed 10 C most of the year), but in a few gulfs like Chivirkuy, it can be comfortable for swimming.[101]

Great Baikal Trailgoes from Listvyanka to Bolshoe Goloustnoye along Lake Baikal coast

Olkhon's most-populated villageKhuzhiris an ecotourist destination.[102]Baikal has always been popular in Russia and CIS-countries, but for the last few years[when?]Baikal has seen an influx of visitors from China and Europe.[103]

Environmental concerns

[edit]

Environmentalists have previously acknowledged pollution at Lake Baikal.[104][105][106]It faces a series of detrimental phenomena including the disappearance of the omul fish, the rapid growth of putrid algae and the death of endemic species of sponges across its area.[106]Environmental advocacy for the lake began in the late 1950s.[107]Since 2010, more than 15,000 metric tons of toxic waste have flowed into the lake.

Baykalsk Pulp and Paper Mill

[edit]
Baykalsk Pulp and Paper Mill in 2008, 5 years before its 2013 closure

TheBaykalsk Pulp and Paper Millwas constructed in 1966, directly on the shoreline of Lake Baikal. The plant bleached paper usingchlorineand discharged waste directly into Lake Baikal. The decision to construct the plant on Lake Baikal resulted in strong protests from Soviet scientists; according to them, the ultra-pure water of the lake was a significant resource and should have been used for innovative chemical production (for instance, the production of high-quality viscose for the aeronautics and space industries). The Soviet scientists felt that it was irrational to change Lake Baikal's water quality by beginning paper production on the shore. It was their position that it was also necessary to preserve endemic species of local biota, and to maintain the area around Lake Baikal as a recreation zone.[108]However, the objections of the Soviet scientists faced opposition from the industrial lobby and only after decades of protest, the plant was closed in November 2008 due to unprofitability.[109][110]

On 4 January 2010, production was resumed. On 13 January 2010, Russian Prime Minister Vladimir Putin introduced changes in legislation legalising the operation of the plant; this action brought about a wave of protests from ecologists and local residents.[111]These changes were based on the determination Prime Minister Putin made through a visual verification of Lake Baikal's condition from a miniature submarine, where he said: "I could see with my own eyes – and scientists can confirm – Baikal is in good condition and there is practically no pollution".[112]Despite this, in September 2013, the mill underwent a final bankruptcy, with the last 800 workers slated to lose their jobs by 28 December 2013.[113]The mill has since shut down, though its reservoirs ofligninsludge remain an environmental hazard.[114][115]

Cancelled East Siberia–Pacific Ocean oil pipeline

[edit]
The lake in the winter. The ice is thick enough to support pedestrians and snowmobiles.
Main article:Eastern Siberia–Pacific Ocean oil pipeline

Russian oil pipelines state companyTransneft[116]was planning to build a trunk pipeline that would have come within 800 m (2,600 ft) of the lake shore in a zone of substantial seismic activity. Environmental activists in Russia,[117]Greenpeace, Baikal pipeline opposition[118]and local citizens[119]were strongly opposed to these plans, due to the possibility of an accidental oil spill that might cause significant damage to the environment. According to the Transneft's president, numerous meetings with citizens near the lake were held in towns along the route, especially in Irkutsk.[120]Transneft agreed to alter its plans when Russian president Vladimir Putin ordered the company to consider an alternative route 40 kilometers (25 mi) to the north to avoid such ecological risks.[121]Transneft has since decided to move the pipeline away from Lake Baikal, so that it will not pass through any federal or republic natural reserves.[122][123]Work began on the pipeline two days after President Putin agreed to changing the route away from Lake Baikal.[124]

Proposed uranium enrichment center

[edit]

In 2006, the Russian government announced plans to build the world's first international uranium enrichment center at an existing nuclear facility inAngarsk,a city on theriver Angarasome 95 km (59 mi) downstream from the lake's shores. Critics and environmentalists argued it would be a disaster for the region and are urging the government to reconsider.[125]

After enrichment, only 10% of the uranium-derived radioactive material would be exported to international customers,[125]leaving 90% near the Lake Baikal region for storage.Uranium tailingscontain radioactive and toxic materials, which if improperly stored, are potentially dangerous to humans and can contaminate rivers and lakes.[125]

An enrichment center was constructed in the 2010s.[126]

Chinese-owned bottled water plant

[edit]

Chinese-owned AquaSib had been purchasing land alongside the lake and in 2019 started building a bottling plant and pipeline in the town ofKultuk.The goal was to export 190 million liters of water to China even though the lake had been experiencing historically low water levels. This spurred protests by the local population that the lake would be drained of its water, at which point the local government halted the plans pending analysis.[127]

Other pollution sources

[edit]

According toThe Moscow TimesandVice,an increasing number of aninvasive speciesofalgaethrive in the lake from hundreds of tons of liquid waste, including fuel and excrement, regularly disposed into the lake by tourist sites, and up to 25,000 tons of liquid waste are disposed of every year by local ships.[128][129]

Historical traditions

[edit]
An 1883 British map using theMore Baikal(Baikal Sea) designation, rather than the conventionalOzero Baikal(Lake Baikal).

The first European to reach the lake is said to have beenKurbat Ivanovin 1643.[130]

In the past, the Baikal was referred to by many Russians as the "Baikal Sea" (море Байкал,More Baikal), rather than merely "Lake Baikal" (озеро Байкал,Ozero Baikal).[131] This usage is attested already in theLife of ProtopopeAvvakum(1621–1682),[132]and on the late-17th-century maps bySemyon Remezov.[133]It is also attested in the famous song, now passed into the tradition, that opens with the wordsСлавное море, священный Байкал(Glorious sea, [the] sacred Bajkal). To this day, the strait between the western shore of the Lake and theOlkhonIsland is calledMaloye More(Малое море), i.e. "theLittle Sea".

Lake Baikal is nicknamed "Older sister of Sister Lakes (Lake Khövsgöland Lake Baikal) ".[134]

According to 19th-century traveler T. W. Atkinson, locals in the Lake Baikal Region had the tradition that Christ visited the area:

The people have a tradition in connection with this region which they implicitly believe. They say "that Christ visited this part of Asia and ascended this summit, whence he looked down on all the region around. After blessing the country to the northward, he turned towards the south, and looking across the Baikal, he waved his hand, exclaiming 'Beyond this there is nothing.'"Thus they account for the sterility ofDaouria,where it is said "no corn will grow."[135]

Lake Baikal has been celebrated in Russian folk songs. Two of these songs are known in Russia and its neighboring countries, such as Japan.

  • "Glorious Sea, Sacred Baikal"(Славное мope, священный Байкал) is about akatorgafugitive. The lyrics as documented and edited in the 19th century by Dmitriy P. Davydov (1811–1888).[136]See "Barguzin River" for sample lyrics.
  • "The Wanderer"(Бродяга) is about a convict who had escaped from jail and was attempting to return home fromTransbaikal.[137]The lyrics were collected and edited in the 20th century byIvan Kondratyev.

The latter song was a secondarytheme songfor the Soviet Union's second color film,Ballad of Siberia(1947;Сказание о земле Сибирской).

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]

References

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Further reading

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