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Exmoor

Coordinates:51°06′N3°36′W/ 51.100°N 3.600°W/51.100; -3.600
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This article is about the moorland. For the place in the United States, seeExmoor, Alabama.For the civil parish, seeExmoor (civil parish).For Royal Navy ships namedExmoor,seeHMS Exmoor.
Not to be confused withExmororExmore.

Exmoor National Park
IUCN categoryV (protected landscape/seascape)
Typical moorland scenery on Exmoor
The national park boundaries
LocationUnited Kingdom(South West England)
Area692 km2(267 sq mi)
Established1954
Governing bodyExmoor National Park Authority
Websitehttp://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/
UK National Parks
England
Northern Ireland
Scotland
Wales
Parentheses denotes the year. An area with‡has similar status to a UK National Park. Areas marked†are proposed.

Exmooris loosely defined as an area of hilly openmoorlandin westSomersetand northDevoninSouth West England.It is named after theRiver Exe,the source of which is situated in the centre of the area, two miles north-west ofSimonsbath.Exmoor is more precisely defined as the area of the former ancient royal hunting forest, also called Exmoor, which was officially surveyed 1815–1818 as 18,810 acres (7,610 ha) in extent. The moor has given its name to aNational Park,which includes theBrendon Hills,theEast Lyn Valley,the Vale of Porlock and 55 km (34 mi) of theBristol Channelcoast. The total area of the Exmoor National Park is 692.8 km2(267.5 sq mi), of which 71% is in Somerset and 29% in Devon.

The upland area is underlain bysedimentaryrocks dating from theDevonianand earlyCarboniferousperiods withTriassicandJurassicage rocks on lower slopes. Where these reach the coast, cliffs are formed which are cut with ravines and waterfalls. It was recognised as aheritage coastin 1991. The highest point on Exmoor isDunkery Beacon;at 519 metres (1,703 ft) it is also the highest point in Somerset. The terrain supportslowland heath communities,ancient woodlandandblanket mirewhich provide habitats for scarce flora and fauna. There have also been reports of theBeast of Exmoor,acryptozoologicalcatroaming Exmoor. Several areas have been designated asNature Conservation ReviewandGeological Conservation Reviewsites.

There is evidence of human occupation from theMesolithic.This developed for agriculture and extraction of mineral ores into theBronzeandIron Ages.The remains ofstanding stones,cairnsand bridges can still be identified. The royal forest was granted a charter in the 13th century, however foresters who managed the area were identified in theDomesday Book.In theMiddle Agessheep farming was common with a system ofagistmentlicensing the grazing of livestock as theInclosure Actsdivided up the land. The area is now used for a range of recreational purposes.

National character area[edit]

Exmoor has been designated as anational character area(No. 145) byNatural England,the public body responsible for England's natural environment. Neighbouring natural regions includeThe Culmto the southwest, theDevon Redlandsto the south and theVale of Taunton and Quantock Fringesto the east.[1]

Exmoor National Park[edit]

Exmoor was designated a National Park in 1954, under the 1949National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act.[2]The Exmoor National Park is primarily anuplandarea with a dispersed population living mainly in small villages and hamlets.[3][4]The largest settlements arePorlock,Dulverton,Lynton,andLynmouth,which together contain almost 40 per cent of the park's population. Lynton and Lynmouth are combined into one parish and are connected by theLynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway.

Exmoor was once aroyal forestand hunting ground, covering 18,810 acres (7,610 ha),[5]which was sold off in 1818.[6]Several areas within the Exmoor National Park have been declaredSites of Special Scientific Interestdue to their flora and fauna.[7][8][9]This title earns the site some legal protection from development, damage and neglect. In 1993 anenvironmentally sensitive areawas established within Exmoor.[10]It is known as a perfect place forstargazing.In 2011, it was designated Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve by theInternational Dark-Sky Association.[11]

Geology[edit]

Main article:Geology of Exmoor National Park

Exmoor is an upland area formed almost exclusively fromsedimentaryrocks dating from theDevonianand earlyCarboniferousperiods. The name of thegeological periodandsystem,'Devonian', comes from Devon, as rocks of that age were first studied and described here. With the exception of a suite ofTriassicandJurassicage rocks forming the lower ground between Porlock and Timberscombe and from Minehead toYarde(within Exmoor National Park but peripheral to the moor itself),[12][13]all of the solid rocks of Exmoor are assigned to theExmoor Group,which comprises a mix ofgritstones,sandstones,slates,shales,limestone,siltstonesandmudstones.Quartzandironmineralisation can be detected in outcrops and subsoil.[14]TheGlenthornearea demonstrates the Trentishoe Member (formerly 'Formation') of the Hangman Sandstone Formation (formerly 'Group'). The Hangman Sandstone represents the Middle Devonian sequence of North Devon and Somerset.[7]These unusual freshwater deposits in the Hangman Grits were mainly formed in desert conditions.[15]As this area of Britain was not subject toglaciation,the plateau remains as a remarkably old landform.[15][16]The bedrock and more recent superficial deposits are covered in part by moorland which is supported by wet, acid soil.[17]

Geography[edit]

Coastline[edit]

Ricky peaks and cliffs topped by greenery, with a small section of blue see visible to the left.
The Exmoor coastline near theValley of Rocks

Exmoor has 55 kilometres (34 miles) of coastline. The highest sea cliff on mainland Britain (if a cliff is defined as having a slope greater than 60 degrees) isGreat HangmannearCombe Martinat 318 m (1,043 ft) high, with a cliff face of 250 m (820 ft).[18]Its sister cliff is the 200 m (656 ft) Little Hangman, which marks the edge of Exmoor. The coastal hills reach a maximum height of 414 m (1,358 ft) at Culbone Hill.[19]

Exmoor's woodlands sometimes reach the shoreline,[18]especially between Porlock andForeland Point,where they form the single longest stretch of coastal woodland inEngland and Wales.[20]TheExmoor Coastal Heathshave been recognised as a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the diversity of plant species present.[21]

The scenery of rocky headlands, ravines, waterfalls and towering cliffs gained the Exmoor coast recognition as aheritage coastin 1991.[22]With its huge waterfalls and caves, this dramatic coastline has become an adventure playground for both climbers and explorers. The cliffs provide one of the longest and most isolated seacliff traverses in the UK.[23]TheSouth West Coast Path,at 1,014 kilometres (630 mi) the longestNational Trailin England and Wales, starts atMineheadand runs along all of Exmoor's coast.[24][25]There are small harbours at Lynmouth,Porlock Weirand Combe Martin. Once crucial to coastal trade, the harbours are now primarily used for pleasure; individually owned sailing boats and non-commercial fishing boats are often found in the harbours.[20]TheValley of Rocksbeyond Lynton is a deep dry valley that runs parallel to the nearby sea and is capped on the seaward side by large rocks,[26][27]andSexton's Burrowsforms a natural breakwater to the harbour ofWatermouthBay on the coast.[28]

Rivers[edit]

A white stream flowing between rock banks through woodland
TheEast Lyn River

The high ground forms thecatchment areafor numerous rivers and streams. There are about 483 km (300 mi) of named rivers on Exmoor.[29]TheRiver Exe,after which Exmoor is named,[30]risesat Exe Head near the village ofSimonsbath,close to theBristol Channelcoast, but flows more or less directly due south, so that most of its length lies inDevon.It reaches the sea at a substantialria(estuary) on the south (English Channel) coast of Devon.[31]It has several tributaries which arise on Exmoor. TheRiver Barleruns from northern Exmoor to join the River Exe atExebridge,Devon. The river and theBarle Valleyare both designated as biological Sites of Special Scientific Interest.[32]Another tributary, theRiver Haddeo,flows from theWimbleball Lake.[33]

Most other rivers arising on Exmoor flow north to the Bristol Channel. These include theRiver Heddon,which runs along the western edges of Exmoor, reaching the North Devon coast atHeddon's Mouth,[34]and theEastandWest Lynrivers, which meet atWatersmeetimmediately east of Lynmouth.Hoar Oak Wateris a moorland tributary of the East Lyn River which also has its confluence there.[35]TheRiver Horner,which is also known as Horner Water, rises nearLuccombeand flows intoPorlock BaynearHurlstone Point.[36]TheRiver Molearises on the south-western flanks of Exmoor and is the major tributary of theRiver Taw,which itself flows northward fromDartmoor.Badgworthy Wateris one of the small rivers running north to the coast and is associated with theLorna Doonelegends.[37]

Climate[edit]

A thin covering of white snow with rocks poking through it, covering sloping hillsides.
Horner Woods, Exmoor, in winter

Along with the rest ofSouth West England,Exmoor has atemperate climatewhich is generally wetter and milder than the rest of England. The mean annual temperature at Simonsbath is 8.3 °C (46.9 °F) with aseasonalanddiurnalvariation, but due to the modifying effect of the sea the range is less than in most other parts of the UK. January is the coldest month, with mean minimum temperatures between 1 and 2 °C (34 and 36 °F). July and August are the warmest months in the region, with mean daily maxima around 21 °C (70 °F). In general, December is the month with the least sunshine and June the month with the most sun. The south-west of England has a favoured location with regard to theAzoreshigh pressure when it extends its influence north-eastwards towards the UK, particularly in summer.[38]

Cloudoften forms inland, especially near hills, and reduce the amount of sunshine that reaches the park. The average annual sunshine is about 1,600 hours.Rainfalltends to be associated withAtlanticdepressionsor with convection. In summer, convection, caused by the sun heating the land surface more than the sea, sometimes forms raincloudsand at that time of year a large proportion of the rainfall comes from showers andthunderstorms.Annual precipitation varies from 800 mm (31 in) in the east of the park to over 2,000 mm (79 in) at The Chains.[29]However, in the 24 hours of 16 August 1952, more than 225 mm (8.9 in) of rain fell at The Chains. This rainfall, which followed an exceptionally wet summer, led to disastrous flooding in Lynmouth with 34 dead and extensive damage to the small town.[29]

Snowfallis very variable from year to year and ranges from 23 days on the high moors to about 6 on coastal areas. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, with June to August having the lightest winds. The wind comes mostly from the south-west.[38]

There are two Met Office Weather stations recording climate data within Exmoor: Liscombe and Nettlecombe.[39]

Climate data for Nettlecombe 96 m asl, 1971–2000
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 7.9
(46.2) 		8.0
(46.4) 		10.2
(50.4) 		12.2
(54.0) 		15.6
(60.1) 		18.3
(64.9) 		20.7
(69.3) 		20.5
(68.9) 		17.8
(64.0) 		14.2
(57.6) 		10.8
(51.4) 		8.8
(47.8) 		13.8
(56.8)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 1.9
(35.4) 		1.8
(35.2) 		3.0
(37.4) 		3.6
(38.5) 		6.2
(43.2) 		8.8
(47.8) 		10.9
(51.6) 		10.8
(51.4) 		9.0
(48.2) 		6.7
(44.1) 		4.1
(39.4) 		2.9
(37.2) 		5.8
(42.4)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 123.6
(4.87) 		87.6
(3.45) 		80.6
(3.17) 		66.3
(2.61) 		62.6
(2.46) 		58.7
(2.31) 		43.4
(1.71) 		66.5
(2.62) 		85.4
(3.36) 		108.6
(4.28) 		106.6
(4.20) 		128.7
(5.07) 		1,018.6
(40.10)
Source:MetOffice[40]

History[edit]

Tarr stepsclapper bridge.

There is evidence of occupation of the area by people fromMesolithictimes onward.[41]In theNeolithicperiod, people started to manage animals and grow crops on farms cleared from the woodland, rather than act purely as hunters and as gatherers.[42]It is also likely that extraction and smelting of mineral ores to make metal tools, weapons, containers and ornaments started in the late Neolithic, and continued into theBronzeandIron Ages.[43]An earthen ring atParracombeis believed to be a Neolithichengedating from 5000–4000BC,andCow Castle,which is where White Water meets the River Barle, is an Iron Age fort at the top of a conical hill.[44]

Tarr Stepsare aprehistoric(c.1000 BC)clapper bridgeacross the River Barle, about4 km (2+1⁄2mi) south-east ofWithypooland 6 km (4 mi) north-west of Dulverton. The stone slabs weigh up to 5 tonnes apiece, and the bridge has been designated byEnglish Heritageas a grade Ilisted building,[45]to recognise its special architectural, historical or cultural significance. There is little evidence of Roman occupation apart from two fortlets on the coast.[43]Lanacombeis the site of severalstanding stonesandcairnswhich have been scheduled asancient monuments.[46][47][48][49][50]The stone settings are between 30 cm (12 in) and 65 cm (26 in) high.[51]A series of Bronze Age stone cairns are closely associated with the standing stones.[52][53][54]

Holwell Castle, at Parracombe, was aNormanmotte-and-bailey castlebuilt to guard the junction of the east–west and north–south trade routes, enabling movement of people and goods and the growth of the population.[55]Alternative explanations for its construction suggest it may have been constructed to obtain taxes at the River Heddon bridging place, or to protect and supervisesilvermining in the area around Combe Martin.[56]It was 40 metres (131 ft) in diameter and 6.2 m (20 ft) high above the bottom of a rock cut ditch which is 2.7 m (9 ft) deep. It was built, in the late 11th or early 12th century.[57][58]The earthworks of the castle are still clearly visible from a nearby footpath, but there is no public access to them.[59]

Establishment of royal forest[edit]

According to the late 13th-centuryHundred Rolls,KingHenry II of England(d. 1189) gaveWilliam of Wrothamthe office of steward of Exmoor.[60]The terms steward, warden and forester appear to be synonymous for the king's chief officer of the royal forest.

Wardens[edit]

The first recorded wardens were Dodo, Almer & Godric who were named in theDomesday Book(1086) as "foresters of Widepolla",Withypoolhaving been the ancient capital of the forest. The family of Denys were associated withIlchester[61]and"Petherton".William of Wrotham, who died in 1217, was steward of the forests of Exmoor and North Petherton, Somerset. Walter and Robert were named as foresters of Exmoor when they witnessed an early 13th-century grant toForde Abbey.[62]In 1276 the jurors ofBrushfordmanor made a complaint about John de Camera in the Court of Exchequer in which he was described as forester of Exmoor.[63]

William Lucar of "Wythecomb", the brother ofElizabeth Lucar,was forestertemp.under Henry VI, between 1422 and 1461.William de Botreaux, 3rd Baron Botreauxwas appointed in 1435 warden of the forests of Exmoor andNerochefor life byRichard Duke of York.[63]The Botreaux family had long held the manor ofMollandat the southern edge of Exmoor, but were probably resident mainly atNorth Cadburyin Somerset. On 10 May 1461William Bourchier, 9th Baron FitzWarin,feudal baron of Bamptonwas appointed by King Edward IV as Master Forester of the Forests of Exmoor and Neroche for life.[64]Sir John Poyntz ofIron Acton,Gloucestershire, was warden or chief forester of Exmoor in 1568 when he brought an action in the Court of Exchequer against Henry Rolle (ofHeanton Satchville, Petrockstowe), the powerful lord of the manors of Exton, Hawkridge and Withypool.[65]

In 1608 Sir Hugh Pollard was named as chief forester in a suit brought before the Court of Exchequer by his deputy William Pincombe.James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormonde,was named as Keeper of Exmoor Forest in 1660 and 1661.James Boeveywas a forester in the 17th century. Sir Richard Acland (or possibly Sir Thomas Dyke Acland) was the last forester up to 1818. One of the roles of the Warden was Master of Staghounds[66]and this role continued to be exercised by the Master of theDevon and Somerset Staghounds,a position extant today. By 1820 the royal forest had been divided up. A quarter of the forest, 10,262 acres (4,153 ha), was sold toJohn Knight(1765–1850) in 1818.[67]This section comprises the present Exmoor Parish, whose parish church is situated in Simonsbath.[68]

Wool trade[edit]

The parish of Exmoor Forest was part of theHundred of Williton and Freemanners.[69]

A small single story building with a pyramid shaped roof, to the side of a road lined with buildings. Some private small cars visible. Trees in the distance with the skyline of Dunster Castle.
Dunster Yarn Market (a covered market for the sale of local cloth, built in 1609) and Dunster Castle, Exmoor

During theMiddle Ages,sheep farming for the wool trade came to dominate the economy. The wool was spun into thread on isolated farms and collected by merchants to be woven, fulled, dyed and finished in thriving towns such asDunster.The land started to be enclosed and from the 17th century onwards larger estates developed, leading to establishment of areas of large regular shaped fields. During the 16th and 17th centuries the commons were overstocked withagistedlivestock, from farmers outside the immediate area who were charged for the privilege. This led to disputes about the number of animals allowed and theenclosureof land.[70]In the mid-17th century James Boevey was the warden. The house that he built atSimonsbathwas the only one in the forest for 150 years.[71]When the royal forest was sold off in 1818, John Knight bought the Simonsbath House and the accompanying farm for £50,000. He set about converting the royal forest into agricultural land.[70]He and his family also built most of the large farms in the central section of the moor as well as 35.4 km (22.0 mi) of metalled access roads to Simonsbath and a 46.7 km (29.0 mi) wall around his estate, much of which still survives.[72]

In the mid-19th century a mine was developed alongside the River Barle. The mine was originally called Wheal Maria, then changed to Wheal Eliza. It was acoppermine from 1845–54 and then an iron mine until 1857, although the first mining activity on the site may be from 1552.[73]At Simonsbath, a restoredVictorianwater-powered sawmill, which was damaged in the floods of 1992, has now been purchased by the National Park and returned to working order; it is now used to make the footpath signs, gates, stiles and bridges for various sites in the park.[74]

Ecology[edit]

Caddow Combe, near Foreland Point, representative of much of Exmoor's unimproved landscape

In addition to the Exmoor Coastal Heaths Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), two other areas are specifically designated.North Exmoorcovers 12,005.3 hectares (29,666 acres)[8]and includes theDunkery Beaconand theHolnicoteand Horner WaterNature Conservation Reviewsites, and theChainsGeological Conservation Reviewsite. The Chains site is nationally important for its south-westernlowland heath communitiesand for transitions fromAncient woodlandthrough upland heath toblanket mire.[75]The site is also of importance for its breeding bird communities, its large population of the nationally rareheath fritillary(Mellicta athalia),[18]an exceptional woodlandlichenfloraand itspalynologicalinterest of deep peat on the Chains.[75]

TheSouth Exmoor SSSIis smaller, covering 3,132.7 hectares (7,741 acres)[9]and including the River Barle and its tributaries with submerged plants such asalternate water-milfoil(Myriophyllum alterniflorum). There are small areas of semi-natural woodland within the site, including some which are ancient. The most abundant tree species issessile oak(Quercus petraea), theshrub layeris very sparse and the ground flora includesbracken,bilberryand a variety of mosses. The heaths have strong breeding populations of birds, includingwhinchat(Saxicola rubetra) andEuropean stonechat(Saxicola rubicola).Wheatear(Oenanthe oenanthe) are common near stone boundary walls and other stony places.Grasshopper warbler(Locustella naevia) breed in scrub and tall heath. Trees on the moorland edges provide nesting sites forLesser redpoll(Acanthis cabaret),common buzzard(Buteo buteo) andraven(Corvus corax).[76]

Flora[edit]

Ground cover purple coloured plants, with hills in the background.
Dunkery Beacon, with heather in bloom

Uncultivatedheathand moorland cover about a quarter of Exmoor landscape.[17]Some moors are covered by a variety ofgrassesandsedges,while others are dominated byheather.There are also cultivated areas including theBrendon Hills,which lie in the east of the National Park. There are also 3,000 hectares (7,400 acres) ofForestry Commissionwoodland,[77]comprising a mixture of broad-leaved (oak,ashandhazel) andconifertrees. Horner Woodlands and Tarr Steps woodlands are prime examples. The country's highest beech tree, 350 m (1,150 ft) above sea level, is at Birch Cleave at Simonsbath but beech in hedgebanks grow up to 490 m (1,610 ft).[18]At least two species ofwhitebeam:Sorbus subcuneataand Sorbus 'Taxon D' are unique to Exmoor.[18]These woodlands are home to lichens,mossesandferns.Exmoor is the only national location for the lichensBiatoridium delitescens,Rinodina fimbriataandRinodina flavosoralifera,the latter having been found only on one individual tree.[18]

In 2024, plans were unveiled to plant approximately 38,000 trees near the sea on Exmoor as part of a larger initiative led by theNational Trustto plant over 100,000 trees in northern Devon, aimed at supportingCeltic rainforests.Among the species earmarked for planting is the nearly extinctDevon whitebeam,a tree found only in England'sWest Countryand inIreland.It can reproduce without fertilization and once had its edible fruit sold as "sorb apples" in Devon markets.[78]

Fauna[edit]

Four small grey ponies in a grassy field.
A herd of Exmoor pony foals

Sheephave grazed on the moors for more than 3,000 years, shaping much of the Exmoor landscape by feeding on moorland grasses and heather. Traditional breeds includeExmoor Horn,CheviotandWhiteface DartmoorandGreyface Dartmoorsheep.North Devon cattleare also farmed in the area.Exmoor poniescan be seen roaming freely on the moors. They are alandracerather than abreedof pony, and may be the closest breed towild horsesremaining in Europe; they are also one of the oldest breeds of pony in the world.[79][80]The ponies are rounded up once a year to be marked and checked over. In 1818 SirThomas Acland,the last warden of Exmoor, took thirty ponies and established the Acland Herd, now known as the Anchor Herd, whose direct descendants still roam the moor.[81]In theSecond World Warthe moor became a training ground, and the breed was nearly killed off, with only 50 ponies surviving the war.[82]The ponies are classified as endangered by theRare Breeds Survival Trust,with only 390 breeding females left in the UK. In 2006 a Rural Enterprise Grant, administered locally by the South West Rural Development Service, was obtained to create a new Exmoor Pony Centre at Ashwick, at a disused farm with 7 hectares (17 acres) of land with a further 56 hectares (140 acres) of moorland.[83]

Red deerhave a stronghold on the moor and can be seen on quiet hillsides in remote areas, particularly in the early morning. TheEmperor of Exmoor,a red stag (Cervus elaphus), was Britain's largest known wild land animal, until it was killed in October 2010.[84][85][86][87]Themoorlandhabitat is also home to hundreds of species ofbirdsandinsects.Birds seen on the moor includemerlin,peregrine falcon,Eurasian curlew,European stonechat,dipper,Dartford warblerandring ouzel.Black grouseandred grouseare nowextincton Exmoor,[88]probably as a result of a reduction in habitat management, and for the former species, an increase in visitor pressure.[89]

Beast[edit]

TheBeast of Exmooris acryptozoologicalcat(seephantom cat) that is reported to roam Exmoor. There have been numerous reports of eyewitness sightings. The BBC calls it "the famous-yet-elusive beast of Exmoor".[90]Sightings were first reported in the 1970s although it became notorious in 1983, when aSouth Moltonfarmer claimed to have lost over 100 sheep in the space of three months, all of them apparently killed by violent throat injuries. In response to these reports Royal Marine Commandos were deployed from bases in the West Country to watch for the mythical beast from covert observation points. After 6 months no sightings had been made by the Royal Marines and the deployments were ended. Descriptions of its colouration range from black to tan or dark grey. It is possibly acougaror blackleopardwhich was released after a law was passed in 1976 making it illegal for them to be kept in captivity outside zoos. In 2006, the British Big Cats Society reported that a skull found by a Devon farmer was that of a puma; however, theDepartment for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs(Defra) states, "Based on the evidence, Defra does not believe that there are big cats living in the wild in England."[91]

Government and politics[edit]

The officialFlag of Exmoor,unveiled at the West Somerset Railway Station in Minehead on 29 October 2014[92]

The National Park, 71% of which is in Somerset and 29% in Devon,[93]has a resident population of 10,600.[18]It was designated a National Park in 1954, under the 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act.[2]About three quarters of the park is privately owned, made up of numerous private estates. The largest landowners are theNational Trust,which owns over 10% of the land, and the National Park Authority, which owns about 7%. Other areas are owned by theForestry Commission,Crown Estateand Water Companies. The largest private landowner is theBadgworthy Land Company,which represents hunting interests.[94]

From 1954 on, local government was the responsibility of the district and county councils, which remain responsible for the social and economic well-being of the local community. Since 1997 the Exmoor National Park Authority, which is known as a 'single purpose' authority, has taken over some functions to meet its aims to "conserve and enhance the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of the National Parks" and "promote opportunities for the understanding and enjoyment of the special qualities of the parks by the public",[95]including responsibility for the conservation of the historic environment.[96]

The Park Authority receives 80% of its funding as a direct grant from the government. The Park Authority Committee consists of members from parish and county councils, and six appointed by theSecretary of State.The work is carried out by 80 staff including rangers, volunteers and a team of estate workers who carry out a wide range of tasks including maintaining the many miles of rights of way,hedge laying,fencing, swaling, walling, invasive weed control and habitat management on National Park Authority land.[97]There are ongoing debates between the authority and farmers over the biological monitoring of SSSIs, showing the need for a controlled regime of grazing and burning; farmers claim that these regimes are not practical or effective in the long term.[98]

The National Park Authority operates CareMoor for Exmoor as an opportunity for those that appreciate the area to give back, with donations supporting conservation and access projects.

Sport and recreation[edit]

Sightseeing,walking,cyclingandmountain bikingtaking in Exmoor's dramatic heritage coastline and moorland countryside scenery are the main attractions. TheSouth West Coast Pathstarts atMineheadand follows all along the Exmoor coast before continuing toPoole. [24][25] TheColeridge Wayis an 82 km (51 mi)footpath[99]which follows the walks taken by poetSamuel Taylor ColeridgetoLynmouth,starting fromColeridge CottageatNether Stoweyin theQuantockswhere he once lived. TheTwo Moors Wayruns fromIvybridgeinSouth DevontoLynmouthon thecoast of North Devon,crossing parts of both Dartmoor and Exmoor.[100]Both of these walks intersect with theSouth West Coast Path,Britain's longest National Trail. Other Exmoor walking trails include theTarka Trail,Samaritans Way South West,Macmillan Way West,Exe Valley WayandCeltic WayExmoor Option.

In addition to long distant walks the Exmoor National Park Authority promote a series 'top walks' in 3 collections of Exmoor Strolls (step and stile free routes more accessible routes), Exmoor Explorers (shorter walks to discover the best of Exmoor) and Exmoor Classics (longer walks to discover more of Exmoor).

For others, although thehuntingof animal with hounds was made illegal by theHunting Act 2004,the Exmoor hunts still meet in full regalia and there is a campaign to resurrect this rural sport.[101]Nine hunts cover the area—the Devon and Somerset Staghounds and theQuantock Staghounds,the Exmoor, Dulverton West, Dulverton Farmers and West Somerset Foxhounds, the Minehead Harriers, the West Somerset Beagles and the North Devon Beagles. During the spring, amateur steeplechase meetings (point-to-points) are run by hunts at temporary courses such asBratton Downand Holnicote. These, along withthoroughbred racingandpony racing,are an opportunity for farmers, hunt staff and the public to witness a day of traditional country entertainment.[102]

Places of interest[edit]

White signpost on a path on the left. To the right are rolling green fields on the hillsides.
Exmoor landscape

The attractions of Exmoor include 208Scheduled monuments,16 conservation areas, and otheropen access landas designated by theCountryside and Rights of Way Act 2000.Exmoor receives approximately 1.4 million visitor days per year which include single day visits and those for longer periods.[103]

The Exmoor National Park Authority operates three Exmoor National Park Centres in Dulverton, Dunster and Lynmouth to provide information and inspiration for users of the National Park.

Attractions on the coast include theLynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway,which connectsLyntonto neighbouring picturesqueLynmouthat the confluence of theEast LynandWest Lynrivers, nearbyValley of RocksandWatersmeet.

Woody Bay,a few miles west ofLynton,is home to theLynton & Barnstaple Railway,anarrow-gauge railwaywhich once connected the twin towns ofLyntonandLynmouthtoBarnstaple,about 31 km (just over 19 miles) away.[104]

Further along the coast,Porlockis a quiet coastal town with an adjacentsalt marshnature reserve and a harbour at nearbyPorlock Weir.Watchetis a historic harbour town with a marina and is home to a carnival, which is held annually in July.[105][106]

Inland, many of the attractions are small towns and villages or linked to the river valleys, such as the ancient clapper bridge atTarr Stepsand the Snowdrop Valley nearWheddon Cross,which is carpeted insnowdropsin February[107]and, later, displaysbluebells.Withypoolis also in the Barle Valley, the Two Moors Way passes through the village.[108]As well asDunster Castle,[109]Dunster's other attractions include a priory,[110]dovecote,yarn market,[111]inn,[112]packhorse bridge,mill and a stop on theWest Somerset Railway.Exfordlies on the River Exe.

Exmoor has been the setting for severalnovelsincluding the 19th-centuryLorna Doone: A Romance of ExmoorbyR. D. Blackmore,andMargaret Drabble's1998 novelThe Witch of Exmoor.The park was featured on the television programmeSeven Natural Wonderstwice, as one of the wonders of theWest Country.

Wheal Eliza Mineon the River Barle near Simonsbath was an unsuccessful copper and iron mine.[113]

NearWheddon Crossis Snowdrop Valley, which becomes filled with thousands of little white flowers calledsnowdropsduring early spring. Within the valley is asawmill,formerly powered by the River Avill, which runs through the valley.[114]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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