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Eyemouth

Coordinates:55°52′16″N2°05′35″W/ 55.871°N 2.093°W/55.871; -2.093
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Eyemouth
Eyemouth Harbour
Eyemouth is located in Scottish Borders
Eyemouth
Eyemouth
Location within theScottish Borders
Population3,580 (2022)[1]
OS grid referenceNT944640
•Edinburgh43 mi (69 km)
•London312 mi (502 km)
Civil parish
  • Eyemouth
Council area
Lieutenancy area
CountryScotland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townEyemouth
Postcode districtTD14
Dialling code01890
PoliceScotland
FireScottish
AmbulanceScottish
UK Parliament
Scottish Parliament
List of places
UK
Scotland
55°52′16″N2°05′35″W/ 55.871°N 2.093°W/55.871; -2.093

Eyemouthis a small town andcivil parishinBerwickshire,in theScottish Bordersarea ofScotland.It is two miles (three kilometres) east of the main north–southA1 roadand eight miles (thirteen kilometres) north ofBerwick-upon-Tweed.

The town's name comes from its location at the mouth of theEye Water.The Berwickshire coastline consists of high cliffs over deep clear water with sandy coves and picturesque harbours. Afishing port,Eyemouth holds a yearlyHerring Queen Festival.Notable buildings in the town include Gunsgreen House[2]and a cemetery watch-house built to stand guard against theResurrectionists(body snatchers). Many of the features of atraditional fishing villageare preserved in the narrow streets and "vennels".[citation needed]

Eyemouth is not far from the small villages ofAyton,Reston,St Abbs,Coldingham,andBurnmouth,all inBerwickshire.

The coast offers opportunities for birdwatching, walking, fishing and diving. Accommodation includes several hotels, B&Bs and a holiday park.

Eyemouth Harbour

A 16th-century artillery fortress[edit]

Fort Point at Eyemouth was the site of the firsttrace-italienne-style fortification in Britain, built on a spur or peninsula overlooking the existing harbour during the war known as theRough Wooing.Building commenced in 1547 by the English military engineerSir Richard Lee(1513–1575),[3]and it cost £1,906. Some of the stone was brought from a demolished tower atDunglass Castle, East Lothianand timber was taken fromColdingham Priory.[4]

The fort was demolished under theTreaty of Boulognein 1551.[5]A larger and more complex fort was built in 1557 byd'Oiseland probably the Italian military engineer Lorenzo Pomarelli for the Regent of Scotland,Mary of Guise,when at war with England. The new fortress could hold some 500 French troops, and may have been intended as a staging post to securely store munitions and artillery nearBerwick-upon-Tweedand the border with England. However, the new work, which perhaps was never completed, was scheduled for demolition under theTreaty of Cateau-Cambrésisin 1559. French garrisons remained in Scotland atDunbar Castle,Inchkeith,and atLeith.Traces of the ramparts are still to be seen.[6]

History of Eyemouth[edit]

Eyemouth fell within the feudal barony of Coldingham, possessed until the early 17th century by Coldingham Priory, after which it passed to theHome family,who had held lands in that barony since at least the 15th century.[7]All landowners (portioners) within the barony held their properties either by hereditaryfeuor by a term-renewable, occasionally hereditary,tack(Scotsword for a lease) from the barony.

The lands between the southern banks of the Eye Water consisted of three estates: Gunsgreen, immediately opposite Eyemouth and Netherbyres, once part of the larger lands of Flemington which stretched all the way toLamberton.At the beginning of the 17th century Gunsgreen estate was possessed by Alexander Lauder of Gunsgreen,[8]a great-great-grandson ofSir Robert Lauder of The Bass(d.1508).[9]On 17 January 1629, Alexander Lauder of Gunsgreen, acting asbailiefor Sir David Home ofWedderburn,gave asasineto Andrew Gray in Eyemouth, of some land on the boundaries of Houndlaw and also in Eyemouth.[10]

Netherbyres House

Netherbyres was for at least 250 years held by the Craw (originally Auchincraw) family. "George Craw of Netherbyre" was "deceased" by July 1614 when his son William came into possession of that property and Reidhall, "with the walk mill" extending to 12 husbandlands (312 acres (126 hectares)).[8]A later William Craw, who had a passion for mathematics, built the first 'modern' harbour at Eyemouth and, in 1715, the elliptical walled garden, the latter almost certainly unique in the world. The Netherbyres House we see today was commenced about 1835 for Captain SirSamuel Brown,R.N., who had the patent and monopoly for the supply of anchor chain to the Royal Navy. He later went on to design and patent chain suspension piers and bridges, including theUnion Bridgeover theRiver Tweed,[11]Still in use today. Netherbyres House was bought bySir Christopher Furness, 2nd Bt.in 1928, and was donated toGardeners' Royal Benevolent Societyfor charitable use by his second son, Colonel Simon Furness, the Vice Lord Lieutenant forBerwickshire,who now occupies a house overlooking the walled garden. Hero William Spears (1812–1885), is celebrated by the dramatic bronze statue in Eyemouth Market Place, where he stands pointing the way to Ayton, the scene of his peaceful demonstration. Spears led a revolt against thetitheson fish levied by theChurch of Scotland,even after the greatDisruption of 1843when most fishermen left the established Church to join other congregations.

Bronze statue of William Spears.

Very soon after the cost of getting the tithes removed had been met, the town was struck by theEyemouth Disasterwhen, on 14 October 1881, most of the fishing fleet, some 20 boats and 129 men from the town, were lost in a terrible storm. Including victims from other coastal towns, a total of 189 men lost their lives. This is commemorated in the Eyemouth Tapestry[12]Housed in the Museum.

A contemporary article offers an interesting insight into Eyemouth in the 1860s:

"Between St Abbs Head and Berwick, however is situated Eyemouth, a fishing village pure and simple, with all that wonderful filth scattered about which is a sanitary peculiarity of such towns.

The population of Eyemouth is in keeping with the outward appearance of the place. As a whole, they are rough, uncultivated, and more drunken in their habits than the fishermen of the neighbouring villages.Coldingham Shore,for instance, is only three miles distant, and has a population of about one hundred fishermen, of a very respectable class, sober and well dressed, and "well to do." –The Fisher Folk of the Scottish East Coast, "Macmillian's Magazine" No.36 October 1862.

In the late 18th century, with the arrival of a group of Dutch engineers in the town, a survey was undertaken for a canal linking Eyemouth to Duns. The plan would have involved damming theWhiteadder WateratChirnsidethus diverting the course of the Whiteadder Water through the low-lying area known as Billiemire to join the Eye Water near Ayton. The plan was never carried out.

From 1891 until 1962, the town was served by ashort branch railway linethat ran fromBurnmouthon the present-dayEast Coast Main Line.The line was forced to close from August 1948 to June 1949 after being damaged by the flooding of theEye Water. John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlboroughwas created Baron Eyemouth in thePeerage of Scotlandin 1682. This was the first of his peerage titles.

Transport[edit]

TheA1 road,the main Edinburgh – Newcastle route, puts the town within commuting distance of Edinburgh.

Eyemouth railway stationserved the town until it was closed in 1962. The nearest railway station isReston railway station,The 253 operatedBorders Busesstops at Reston railway station

Education[edit]

Eyemouth Public School, in Albert Road, was built in 1876, designed by the architect William Gray Junior.[13]

Children attend Eyemouth Primary School, after which they attend Eyemouth High School.

There is a further education training centre in the town.Northumberland CollegeinBerwick-upon-Tweedis eight miles (13 km) away, and full-time further and higher education courses are offered atBorders CollegeandHeriot-Watt University'stextiles campus inGalashiels.

Media[edit]

Local news and television programmes are provided byBBC ScotlandandITV Border.Television signals are received from the local relay transmitter.[14]

Eyemouth's local radio stations areBBC Radio Scotlandon 94.1 FM andGreatest Hits Radio Scottish Borders and North Northumberlandon 103.4 FM.

The Border Telegraph andSouthern Reporterare the town's local newspapers.[15][16]

Harbour and industry[edit]

Yachts berthed in Eyemouth Harbour

In 1997, Eyemouth was given EU funding from a scheme to regenerate declining fishing villages and raised matching funds itself to construct a deep water extension to the harbour. Eyemouth Harbour caters for most types of fishery activity and as a result Eyemouth's primary industry has seen a certain amount of rejuvenation. Apontoonhas been installed in the harbour to provide ease of boarding for seafarers. Volunteers forHer Majesty's Coastguardand the seagoingRNLI lifeboatare called out by the firing ofmaroons,one for the Coastguard and two for the Lifeboat.

There is aboatyardwhich carries out works to fishing and commercial vessels. The new harbour and fish market has toilets and showers which are available to visiting seamen – contact the Eyemouth Harbour Harbourmaster. The visitor centre explains the methods of fishing, the types of nets and the vessels used and examples of the equipment of a typicalfishing boatare displayed. Visitors can see the market in action in the early mornings from a viewing platform. Boats are available for hire for sea fishing, sightseeing and diving in one of the fewmarine reservesin Britain.

TheEyemouth paleis a cold-smoked haddock, distinct from varieties such asFinnan haddockby its lighter, golden hue, and subtler smoked flavour, achieved by a shorter smoking time.[17]

Politics[edit]

The elected Eyemouth Town Community Council is led by a Chairman and has 12 members, including an HonoraryProvost.Three representatives ofScottish Borders Councilattend monthly public meetings in order to take on board and act upon feedback from the community councillors, who serve as a voice of the people of the town. Eyemouth Town Community Council (a ScottishCommunity Council), meets on the last Monday of the month (except in December) at 7.00pm in the community centre, minutes of the meetings being displayed on their website, on two notice boards in the town and also in theBerwickshire News.

Attractions[edit]

Beach and Bantry at Eyemouth

The wide sandy bay is flanked by high cliffs. Despite being sheltered by Hurkur Rocks, storms can generate high waves and throw high plumes of spume into the air over the sea wall. It is named "TheBantry",said to be in affectionate memory of the Irish labourers from the fishing town of that name inCounty Corkwho constructed it.

The 18 holegolf courseand clubhouse have sea views and a restaurant which is open to the public, allowing patrons to enjoy panoramic views as they eat.

Divers come from all over the world to enjoy the St Abbs and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Reserve with its unique marine flora and fauna.

Eyemouth also has a great leisure centre consisting of a state-of-the-art gym, a studio, a sauna and two swimming pools, one small with a maximum depth of less than 3 feet and a big pool with a minimum depth of 3 feet to a maximum depth of 10 feet.

Nearby places of interest[edit]

Other places of interest nearby include the fortifications ofBerwick-upon-Tweedalso designed bySir Richard Lee,and its military museum,Paxton House,theUnion Bridgeand the Chain Bridge Honey Farm, and scores of quiet country roads skirting theCheviot Hills,frequently snow-capped in winter. Many visitors pause on their journey on the A1 to photograph their arrival in Scotland or their departure to England at the border crossing. Though the border has significance to many visitors, most residents of Eyemouth consider themselves Scottish rather than British.[citation needed]Nearby the border is a nature trail through the mysteriously named 'Conundrum' Farm. Typical Border towns and villages, such asKelso,Grantshouse,Abbey St Bathans,Cove,Cockburnspath(pronounced 'coburnspath' or 'copath' by locals),Cornhill,Wooler,Morpeth,AlnmouthandAlnwickare all within easy reach for day trips from Eyemouth. NearChirnsidestood Ninewells House, since demolished, whereScottish EnlightenmentphilosopherDavid Humespent much of his life.

Popular culture[edit]

  • ITV'sTaggartwas filmed on occasion at St Abbs and Coldingham Sands.
  • Eyemouth is the setting for a novel bySusanna KearsleytitledThe Shadowy Horses.
  • Eyemouth is the home of the Queen of the Underworld in H.P. Mallory's series of Jolie Wilkins books.
  • Avengers Endgamewas filmed at nearby, featuring St Abbs as the harbour town of New Asgard and the overlooking cliffs where Thor asks Valkyrie to be King. Parts ofThor love and Thunderwere also filmed at St Abbs

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^"Mid-2020 Population Estimates for Settlements and Localities in Scotland".National Records of Scotland.31 March 2022.Retrieved31 March2022.
  2. ^"BBC - Scotland - Coast".www.bbc.co.uk.Archived fromthe originalon 14 August 2005.Retrieved17 May2022.
  3. ^Skempton, A,Biographical Dictionary of Civil Engineers,vol. 1 (Telford, 2002), 401.
  4. ^Marcus Merriman,'The Forts of Eyemouth: Anvils of British Union?',Scottish Historical Review,67 (1988), p. 146.
  5. ^Marcus Merriman, 'The Forts of Eyemouth: Anvils of British Union?',Scottish Historical Review,67 (1988), p. 150.
  6. ^Pamela E. Ritchie,Mary of Guise in Scotland: A Political Career(East Linton: Tuckwell, 2002), pp. 182, 187: Marcus Merriman, 'The Forts of Eyemouth: Anvils of British Union?',Scottish Historical Review,67 (1988), pp. 152–154: Amadio Ronchini, 'Lorenzo Pomarelli' inAtti e memorie delle RR. Deputazioni di storia patria per le provincie Modenesi e Parmensi(Modena, 1868), pp. 264-5, andNational Records of ScotlandE34/21.
  7. ^Historic Manuscripts Commission, Manuscripts of Colonel David Milne Home of Wedderburn Castle(London, 1902), p. 26.
  8. ^abHistoric Manuscripts Commission,Manuscripts of Colonel David Milne Home of Wedderburn Castle, N.B.,London, 1902: 183–4.
  9. ^Lawder, Charles A B,The Lawders of The Bass and Their Descendants,Belfast, 1914.
  10. ^Anderson, Rev John,Calendar of the Laing Charters, AD854-1837,Edinburgh, 1899: 487.
  11. ^Christies Scotland,Netherbyres, Eyemouth, Berwickshire,Glasgow, 1991: 9.
  12. ^"Handwoven tapestry from Eyemouth".Scran.Retrieved3 June2021.
  13. ^"Dictionary of Scottish Architects - DSA Building/Design Report (September 15, 2021, 9:30 pm)".
  14. ^"Freeview Light on the Eyemouth (The Scottish Borders, Scotland) transmitter".UK Free TV.Retrieved8 October2023.
  15. ^"Border Telegraph".British Papers.23 November 2013.Retrieved8 October2023.
  16. ^"Southern Reporter".British Papers.21 January 2014.Retrieved8 October2023.
  17. ^Paston-Williams, Sara (10 February 2006).Fish: Recipes from a Busy Island.Pavilion Books. p. 108.ISBN978-1-905400-07-2.

References[edit]

Rev. Daniel McIver,An old-time fishing town – Eyemouth,John Menzies, 1906.

Peter Aitchison,Children of the Sea: The Story of the People of Eyemouth,Tuckwell Press Ltd, 2001. Republished?2007 asBlack Friday.(The author is a descendant of William Spears.)

External links[edit]

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