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Fleet Street

Coordinates:51°30′50″N0°06′38″W/ 51.5138°N 0.1105°W/51.5138; -0.1105
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Fleet Street
Fleet Street in 2008
Fleet Street is located in City of London
Fleet Street
Location in Central London
Part ofA4
NamesakeRiver Fleet
Maintained byTransport for London
Length0.3 mi (0.48 km)[1]
Postal codeEC4
Nearest train stationNational RailLondon UndergroundBlackfriars
National RailCity Thameslink
Coordinates51°30′50″N0°06′38″W/ 51.5138°N 0.1105°W/51.5138; -0.1105

Fleet Streetis a street inCentral London,England. It runs west to east fromTemple Barat the boundary of theCities of LondonandWestminstertoLudgate Circusat the site of theLondon Walland theRiver Fleetfrom which the street was named.

The street has been an important through route sinceRoman times.During theMiddle Ages,businesses were established and senior clergy lived there; several churches remain from this time includingTemple ChurchandSt Bride's.The street became known for printing and publishing at the start of the 16th century and by the 20th century, mostBritish national newspapersoperated here. Much of the industry moved out in the 1980s afterNews Internationalset up cheaper manufacturing premises inWapping,but some former newspaper buildings arelistedand have been preserved. The termFleet Streetremains ametonymfor the British national press, and pubs on the street once frequented by journalists remain popular.

Fleet Street has a significant number of monuments and statues along its length, including the dragon at Temple Bar and memorials to a number of figures from the British press, such asSamuel PepysandLord Northcliffe.The street is mentioned in several works byCharles Dickensand is the home of the fictional murdererSweeney Todd.

Geography[edit]

Fleet Street road sign. The street numbering runs consecutively from west to east south-side and then east to west north-side.

Fleet Street is named after theRiver Fleet,which runs fromHampsteadto theRiver Thamesat the western edge of theCity of London.It is one of the oldest roads outside the original city and was established by theMiddle Ages.[2][3]In the 13th century, it was known as Fleet Bridge Street, and in the early 14th century it became known as Fleet Street.[4]

The street runs east fromTemple Bar,the boundary between the Cities of London andWestminster,as a continuation ofthe StrandfromTrafalgar Square.It crossesChancery LaneandFetter Laneto reachLudgate Circusby theLondon Wall.The road ahead isLudgate Hill.The street numbering runs consecutively from west to east south-side and then east to west north-side.[1]It links the Roman and medieval boundaries of the City after the latter was extended. The section of Fleet Street between Temple Bar and Fetter Lane is part of theA4,a major road running west through London,[1]although it once ran along the entire street and eastwards pastSt Paul's ChurchyardtowardsCannon Street.[5]

The nearestLondon Undergroundstations areTemple,Chancery Lane,andBlackfriarstube/mainline station and theCity Thameslink railway station.[1]London Bus routes 4, 11, 15, 23, 26, 76 and 172 run along the full length of Fleet Street, while route 341 runs between Temple Bar and Fetter Lane.[6]

History[edit]

Early history[edit]

Fleet Streetc.1890

Fleet Street was established as a thoroughfare inRoman Londonand there is evidence that a route led west from Ludgate by 200 AD.[7]Local excavations revealed remains of a Roman amphitheatre near Ludgate on what wasFleet Prison,but other accounts suggest the area was too marshy for regular inhabitation by the Romans.[8]TheSaxonsdid not occupy the Roman city but establishedLundenwicfurther west around what is nowAldwychandthe Strand.[9]

Manyprelateslived around the street during the Middle Ages, including the Bishops of Salisbury and St Davids and the Abbots ofFaversham,Tewkesbury,WinchcombeandCirencester.[3]Tanningof animalhidesbecame established on Fleet Street owing to the nearby river, though this increased pollution leading to a ban on dumping rubbish by the mid-14th century.[10]Many taverns andbrothelswere established along Fleet Street and have been documented as early as the 14th century.[2][a]Records show thatGeoffrey Chaucerwas fined twoshillingsfor attacking afriarin Fleet Street,[8]though modern historians believe this is apocryphal.[11]

An important landmark in Fleet Street during the late Middle Ages was aconduitthat was the main water supply for the area. WhenAnne Boleynwas crowned queen following her marriage toHenry VIIIin 1533, the conduit flowed wine instead of water.[12]By the 16th century, Fleet Street, along with much of the City, was chronically overcrowded, and a royal proclamation in 1580 banned any further building on the street. This had little effect, and construction continued, particularly timber.[13]Prince Henry's Roomover theInner Templegate dates from 1610 and is named afterHenry Frederick, Prince of Wales,eldest son ofJames I,who did not survive to succeed his father.[14][15]

Ablue plaquemarking the location of theAnti-Corn Law Leagueheadquarters on No. 67 Fleet Street

The eastern part of the street was destroyed by theGreat Fire of Londonin 1666, despite attempts to use the River Fleet to preserve it.[16][17]Fire damage reached to aboutFetter Lane,and the special tribunal of the 'Fire Courts' was held atClifford's Inn,aninn of Chanceryat the edge of the extent of the fire, to arbitrate on claimants' rights.[18]Properties were rebuilt in the same style as before the fire.[17]

During the early 18th century, a notorious upper-class gang known as theMohocksoperated on the street causing regular violence and vandalism.[3][8]Mrs Salmon's Waxworkswas established at Prince Henry's Room in 1711. It had a display of macabre andblack-humouredexhibits, including the execution ofCharles I;a Roman lady, Hermonie, whose father survived a sentence of starvation by sucking her breast; and a woman who gave birth to 365 children simultaneously. The waxworks were a favourite haunt ofWilliam Hogarth,and survived into the 19th century.[19]The Apollo Society, a music club, was established in 1733 at the Devil Tavern on Fleet Street by composerMaurice Greene.[20]

In 1763, supporters ofJohn Wilkes,who had been arrested for libel against theEarl of Bute,burned ajackbootin the centre of the street in protest against Bute.[3]It led to violent demonstrations and rioting in 1769 and 1794.[8]

Tanning and other industries declined sharply after the River Fleet was routed underground in 1766.[2]The street was widened during the late-19th century, when Temple Bar was demolished and Ludgate Circus was constructed.[21]The headquarters of theAnti-Corn Law Leaguewere based at No. 67 Fleet Street, and ablue plaquemarks the location.[22]

Printing and journalism[edit]

See also:History of British newspapersandList of United Kingdom newspapers
The former offices of theDaily Telegraph Buildingat No. 135–141

Publishing started in Fleet Street around 1500 whenWilliam Caxton's apprentice,Wynkyn de Worde,set up a printing shop nearShoe Lane,while at around the same timeRichard Pynsonset up as publisher and printer next toSt Dunstan's Church.More printers and publishers followed, mainly supplying the legal trade in the four Inns of Court around the area,[23]but also publishing books and plays.[24]

In March 1702 the first issue of London's first daily newspaper, theDaily Courant,was published in Fleet Street. It was followed by theMorning Chronicle.[24]The publisherJohn Murraywas founded at No. 32 Fleet Street in 1762 and remained there until 1812, when it moved to Albemarle Street.[24]The popularity of newspapers was restricted due to various taxes during the early 19th century, particularly paper duty.[25]Peele's Coffee-House at No. 177–178 Fleet Street became popular and was the main committee room for the Society for Repealing the Paper Duty, starting in 1858.[8]The society was successful and the duty was abolished in 1861. Along with the repeal of the newspaper tax in 1855, this led to a dramatic expansion of newspaper production in Fleet Street. The "penny press" (newspapers costing onepenny) became popular during the 1880s and the initial number of titles had consolidated into a few nationally important ones.[25]

By the 20th century, Fleet Street and the area surrounding it were dominated by the national press and related industries. TheDaily Expressrelocated to No. 121–8 Fleet Street in 1931, into a building designed by SirOwen Williams.It was the firstcurtain wallbuilding in London. It has survived the departure of the newspaper in 1989 and was restored in 2001.The Daily Telegraphwas based atNo. 135–142.[24]These premises are bothGrade II-listed.[26]In the 1930s, No. 67 housed 25 separate publications; by this time the majority of British households bought a daily paper produced from Fleet Street.[27]

In 1986News InternationalownerRupert Murdochcaused controversy when he moved publication ofThe TimesandThe Sunaway from Fleet Street to new premises inWapping,East London.Murdoch believed it was impossible to produce a newspaper profitably on Fleet Street and the power of the print unions, theNational Graphical Association(NGA) and theSociety of Graphical and Allied Trades(SOGAT), was too strong (an opinion endorsed by thePrime Minister,Margaret Thatcher). All Fleet Street print staff were sacked and new staff from theElectrical, Electronic, Telecommunications and Plumbing Unionwere brought in to operate the presses at Wapping using modern computer-operated technology, rendering the power of the old unions obsolete. The resultingWapping disputefeatured violent protests at Fleet Street and Wapping that lasted over a year, but ultimately other publishers followed suit and moved out of Fleet Street towardsCanary WharforSouthwark.Reuterswas the last major news outlet to leave Fleet Street, in 2005.[24]In the same year,The Daily TelegraphandSunday Telegraphannounced they were returning to the centre of London from Canary Wharf to new premises inVictoriain 2006.[28]

Some publishers have remained on Fleet Street. The London office ofD.C. Thomson & Co.,creator ofThe Beano,is at No. 185.[29]The Secretariat of theCommonwealth Broadcasting Associationis at No. 17,[30]as isWentworth Publishing,an independent publisher of newsletters and courses.[31]The Associated Presshas an office in Fleet Street[32]as didThe Jewish Chronicleuntil 2013 when it moved toGolders Green.[33]The British Association of Journalists is based at No. 89[34]whileMetro Internationalare at No. 85.[35]

Though many prominent national newspapers have moved away from Fleet Street, the name is still synonymous with the printing and publishing industry.[24]In the adjacent St. Brides Lane is theSt Bride Library,holding a specialist collection relating to the type and print industry and providing courses in printing technology and methods.[36]On the wall of Magpie Alley, offBouverie Street,is a mural depicting the history of newspapers in the area.[37]

The last two journalists to work for the Dundee-basedSunday Post,left in 2016, as the paper closed its London offices.[38]

Modern history[edit]

Fleet Street pictured in 1953, with flags hung for thecoronation of Queen Elizabeth II.

Despite the domination of the print industry, other businesses were also established on Fleet Street.The Automobile Associationwas established at No. 18 Fleet Street in 1905.[39]Since the post-Wapping migration, Fleet Street is now more associated with the investment banking, legal and accountancy professions. For example, The Inns of Court and barristers' chambers are down alleys and around courtyards off Fleet Street itself and many of the old newspaper offices have become the London headquarters for various companies.[24]One example isGoldman Sachs,whose offices are in the old Daily Telegraph and Liverpool Echo buildings of Peterborough Court and Mersey House.[40]

C. Hoare & Co,England's oldest privately owned bank, has been operating in Fleet Street since 1672.[41]Child & Co.,now a wholly owned subsidiary ofRoyal Bank of Scotland,claims it is the oldest continuous banking establishment in the United Kingdom. It was founded in 1580 and has been based at No.1 Fleet Street, adjacent to Temple Bar, since 1673.[42]The law firmFreshfieldsmoved to No. 65 Fleet Street in 1990.[24]

Notable buildings[edit]

St-Dunstan-in-the-West on Fleet Street, pictured in 1842

In theHigh Middle Agessenior clergymen had their London palaces in the street. Place-names surviving with this connection are Peterborough Court and Salisbury Court after their respective Bishops' houses here; apart from the Knights Templars' establishment theWhitefriarsmonastery is recalled by Whitefriars Street[17]and the remains of itsundercrofthave been preserved in a public display area. ACarmelitechurch was established on Fleet Street in 1253, but it was destroyed during theReformationin 1545.[43]

Today three churches serve the spiritual needs of the three 'communities' associated with the area of the street.Temple Churchwas built by the Knights Templar in 1162 and serves the legal profession.[44]St Bride's Churchwas established as early as the 6th century[3]and was later designed bySir Christopher Wrenin a style that complementedSt Mary Le Bowfurther east in the City.[45]It remains the London church most associated with the print industry.St Dunstan-in-the-Westalso dates from the 12th century supplements these as the local parish (as opposed to guild church) and is the London home for theRomanian Orthodoxchurch.[46]

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

To the south lies an area of legal buildings known asthe Temple,formerly the property of theKnights Templar,which at its core includes two of the fourInns of Court:theInner Templeand theMiddle Temple.There are many lawyers' offices (especiallybarristers' chambers) in the vicinity.[47]The gatehouse to Middle Temple Lane was built bySir Christopher Wrenin 1684.[48]To the west, at the junction with Strand are theRoyal Courts of Justice[49]whilst at the eastern end of the street theOld Baileyis near Ludgate Circus.[50]

As a principal route leading to and from the City, Fleet Street was especially noted for its taverns and coffeehouses. Many notable persons of literary and political fame such asSamuel Johnsonfrequented these, and journalists would regularly meet in pubs to collect stories.[51]Some have survived to the 21st century and are grade II listed:Ye Olde Cock Tavernat No. 22,The Tipperaryat No. 66, theOld Bellat No. 95,the Punch Tavernat No. 98 andYe Olde Cheshire Cheeseat No. 145.[52]TheEl Vinowine bar moved to No. 47 in 1923, quickly becoming popular with lawyers and journalists. Women were not allowed in the bar until 1982, and then only because of a court order.[24]The Old Bank of England,which from 1888 to 1975 was a trading house for the country's central bank, is now a Grade II listed pub.[53]

Since 1971, the southern side of the street has been part of the Fleet Street Conservation Area, which ensures buildings are regularly maintained and the character of the street is preserved. The area expanded to the north side in 1981.[54]

Monuments and statues[edit]

TheTemple Bar Memorial,one of theboundary markersof the City of London.

The area around Fleet Street contains numerous statues and memorials to prominent public figures. At the north-eastern corner is a bust ofEdgar Wallace,[55]and a full-length representation ofMary, Queen of Scotsin a first-floor niche at No. 143–144 commissioned byJohn Tollemache Sinclair.[56]Above the entrance to the old school-house of St Dunstan's is a statue ofQueen Elizabeth Iprovided for the then new Ludgate in 1586 by William Kerwin; it was moved to here following the gate's demolition in 1776.[57]Adjacent to this is a bust ofLord Northcliffe,the newspaper proprietor, co-founder of theDaily Mailand theDaily Mirror.[58]At No. 72 is a bust of the Irish journalist and MPTP O'Connor,constructed in 1934 by F. W. Doyle-Jones.[58][59]

On the southern side of the street nearby memorials and monuments include theTemple Bar Memorialwhere theTemple Bar(a gateway) used to stand until it was removed in 1878. The marker was designed bySir Horace Jonesin 1880.[45]It has a statue of adragonat the top (sometimes called "the Griffin" ), and a statue ofQueen Victoriain a niche in the side.[60][61]

In theInner TempleGardens is a memorial toCharles Lamb.[56]In Salisbury Square there is an obelisk commemoratingRobert Waithman,mayor of London between 1823 and 1833,[62]and ablue plaquecommemorating the birthplace of diarist and naval secretarySamuel Pepys.[63]

Notable residents[edit]

Several writers and politicians are associated with Fleet Street, either as residents or regulars to the various taverns, includingBen Jonson,John Milton,Izaak Walton,John Dryden,Edmund Burke,Oliver GoldsmithandCharles Lamb.[4]The lexicographerSamuel Johnsonlived at Gough Square off Fleet Street between 1748 and 1759; the building has survived into the 21st century.[45]The cartographerJohn Senexowned a map store, The Sign of the Globe, on Fleet Street between 1725 and his death in 1736.[64]Wynkyn de Wordewas buried in St. Bride's Church in 1535, as was poetRichard Lovelacein 1657,[65]while Samuel Pepys was baptised there in 1633.[66]

TheRoyal Societywas based in Crane Court from 1710 to 1782, when it moved toSomerset Houseon the Strand.[67]

Cultural references[edit]

The barberSweeney Toddis traditionally said to have lived and worked during the 18th century in Fleet Street, where he would murder customers and serve their remains as pie fillings.[68]Anurban mythexample of aserial killer,the character appears in various English language works starting in the mid-19th century.[69]Adaptations of the story include the 1936George Kingfilm,[69]the 1979Stephen Sondheimmusical,[70]and the 2007Tim Burtonfilmbased on the musical, all titledSweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street.[71]

Fleet Street is mentioned in several ofCharles Dickens's works. The eponymous club inThe Posthumous Papers of the Pickwick Club,more commonly known asThe Pickwick Papers,is set in the street, as is Tellson's Bank inA Tale of Two Cities.[72]The poetJohn Davidsonwrote two works in the late 19th century titled theFleet Street Eclogues.[73]Arthur Ransomehas a chapter in hisBohemia in London(1907) about earlier inhabitants of the street: Ben Jonson, the lexicographer Doctor Samuel Johnson,Coleridge,Hazlittand Lamb; and about Temple Bar and the Press Club.[74]

Fleet Street is a square on the BritishMonopolyboard, in a group with the Strand and Trafalgar Square. One of theChance cardsin the game, "You Have Won A Crossword Competition, collect £100" was inspired by rival competitions and promotions between Fleet Street-based newspapers in 1930s, particularly theDaily MailandDaily Express.[b][75]

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^In 1339 a Fleet Street resident was found guilty of "harbouring prostitutes and sodomites".[2]
  2. ^In 1931, theDaily Mailpaid £125,000 (now £10,728,000) in crossword prizes.

References[edit]

  1. ^abcd"3, Fleet Street to 100, Fleet Street".Google Maps.Retrieved28 December2015.
  2. ^abcdMoore 2003,p. 185.
  3. ^abcdeWeinreb et al 2008,p. 298.
  4. ^abRines, George Edwin, ed. (1920)."Fleet Street".Encyclopedia Americana.
  5. ^Ten Mile Map of Great Britain (London Four Mile Insert)(Map).Ordnance Survey.1932.Retrieved28 December2015.
  6. ^"Central London Bus Map"(PDF).Transport for London.Archived fromthe original(PDF)on 13 March 2017.Retrieved28 December2015.
  7. ^City 1996,p. 4.
  8. ^abcdeThornbury, Walter (1878)."Fleet Street: General Introduction".Old and New London.1.London: 32–53.Retrieved31 December2015.
  9. ^Wood, Eric Stuart (1997).Historical Britain: A Comprehensive Account of the Development of Rural and Urban Life and Landscape from Prehistory to the Present Day.Harvill Press. p. 157.ISBN978-1-860-46214-6.
  10. ^Brooke 2010,p. 8.
  11. ^Minnis, Alastair (2014).Historians on Chaucer: The "General Prologue" to the Canterbury Tales.Oxford University Press. p. 161.ISBN978-0-19-968954-5.
  12. ^Brooke 2010,p. 16.
  13. ^Brooke 2010,p. 15.
  14. ^Weinreb et al 2008,p. 639.
  15. ^"Prince Henry's Room".City of Londonc.Archived fromthe originalon 1 April 2016.Retrieved27 January2015.
  16. ^Weinreb et al 2008,pp. 340–341.
  17. ^abcCity 1996,p. 5.
  18. ^Thornbury, Walter (1878)."Fleet Street: Northern tributaries (continued)".Old and New London.1.London: 92–104.Retrieved30 December2015.
  19. ^Weinreb et al 2008,pp. 820–1.
  20. ^Herissone, Rebecca;Howard, Alan (2013).Concepts of Creativity in Seventeenth-century England.Boydell & Brewer Ltd. p. 190.ISBN978-1-843-83740-4.
  21. ^City 1996,p. 7.
  22. ^McCord, Norman (2013).The Anti-Corn Law League: 1838–1846.Routledge. p. 140.ISBN978-1-136-58447-3.
  23. ^Weinreb et al 2008,p. 299.
  24. ^abcdefghiWeinreb et al 2008,p. 300.
  25. ^abHampton 2004,p. 32.
  26. ^"Listed Buildings in City of London, Greater London, England".British Listed Buildings.Retrieved29 December2015.
  27. ^Moore 2003,pp. 186, 188.
  28. ^"Telegraph moves to Victoria".The Daily Telegraph.22 December 2005.Archivedfrom the original on 12 January 2022.Retrieved30 December2015.
  29. ^"About Us".D.C. Thomson & Co.Retrieved30 December2015.
  30. ^Paren, Liz; Coxon, Caroline; Dorall, Cheryl (2003).The Commonwealth: A Family of Nations.Commonwealth Secretariat.p. 111.ISBN978-0-85092-753-5.
  31. ^"Contact us".Wentworth Publishing.Archived fromthe originalon 28 June 2014.Retrieved30 December2015.
  32. ^Jefkins, Frank William (2012).International Dictionary of Marketing and Communication.Springer Science+Business Media.p. 390.ISBN978-1-4684-1523-0.
  33. ^"Jewish Chronicle HQ to be recycled into serviced flats".Property Week.21 February 2014. Archived fromthe originalon 6 November 2018.Retrieved8 May2014.
  34. ^"About us".British Association of Journalists. Archived fromthe originalon 31 December 2015.Retrieved1 January2016.
  35. ^"Metro International office move means print returns to Fleet Street".Press Gazette.7 November 2007.Retrieved1 January2016.
  36. ^"St Bride Library".British Letter Press.Retrieved30 December2015.
  37. ^"Magpie Alley Crypt".thelondonphile. April 2012.Retrieved31 December2015.
  38. ^"Last newspaper journalists leave Fleet Street as Sunday Post retreats".The Guardian.15 July 2016.Retrieved7 August2016.
  39. ^Brooke 2010,p. 6.
  40. ^Moore 2003,p. 192.
  41. ^Moore 2003,p. 193.
  42. ^"Child & Co".Royal Bank of Scotland.Retrieved29 December2015.
  43. ^Brooke 2010,pp. 13–14.
  44. ^Weinreb et al 2008,p. 910.
  45. ^abcCity 1996,p. 8.
  46. ^"St Dunstan in the West | Fleet Street, London, EC4".St Dunstan-in-the-West.Retrieved8 November2018.
  47. ^Weinreb et al 2008,pp. 431, 433, 546.
  48. ^Bellot 1902,p. 269.
  49. ^Weinreb et al 2008,p. 716.
  50. ^Weinreb et al 2008,pp. 141–142.
  51. ^Moore 2003,pp. 191–2.
  52. ^City 1996,pp. 12–13.
  53. ^"City Diary: all change at the Bank".The Times.12 December 2013.Retrieved26 March2018.
  54. ^City 1996,p. 3.
  55. ^Weinreb et al 2008,p. 875.
  56. ^abWeinreb et al 2008,p. 872.
  57. ^Weinreb et al 2008,p. 870.
  58. ^abWeinreb et al 2008,p. 873.
  59. ^Ward-Jackson, Philip (2003).Public sculpture of the city of London.Liverpool University Press.p. 140.ISBN978-0-85323-967-3.
  60. ^Bellot 1902,p. 267.
  61. ^"The Temple Bar Memorial".The Victorian Web.Retrieved16 February2021.
  62. ^City 1996,p. 13.
  63. ^"Samuel Pepys blue plaque in London".Blue Plaque Places. Archived fromthe originalon 1 May 2018.Retrieved2 January2016.
  64. ^"John Senex".British Museum.Retrieved3 January2015.
  65. ^"St Bride's: History Chapter IV – 1500–1665".St Bride's Church.Retrieved2 January2016.
  66. ^Olson, Donald (2004).Frommer's London from $90 a Day.Wiley.p.175.ISBN978-0-7645-5822-1.
  67. ^Thornbury, Walter (1878)."Fleet Street: Tributaries (Crane Court, Johnson's Court, Bolt Court)".Old and New London.1.London: 104–112.Retrieved31 December2015.
  68. ^"Sweeney Todd and Fleet Street | The Sweeney Todd Story".knowledgeoflondon.com.Retrieved8 November2018.
  69. ^abMoore 2003,p. 194.
  70. ^"Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street".Rotten Tomatoes.Flixster.Archived fromthe originalon 18 April 2008.Retrieved27 June2008.
  71. ^"Sweeney Todd – The Demon Barber of Fleet Street(18) ".Warner Bros.British Board of Film Classification.18 December 2007.Retrieved28 August2013.
  72. ^"Dickens and Fleet Street".Dickens and London. Archived fromthe originalon 24 October 2008.Retrieved31 December2015.
  73. ^"Mr Davidson's Fleet Street Eclogues".The Spectator.14 March 1896.Retrieved31 December2015.
  74. ^Ransome, Arthur(1907)."Old and New Fleet Street".Bohemia in London.
  75. ^Moore 2003,pp. 176, 189.

Citations[edit]

Further reading[edit]

External links[edit]

Media related toFleet Streetat Wikimedia Commons

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