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Glycine (watch)

Coordinates:47°08′30″N7°14′47″E/ 47.141791°N 7.246484°E/47.141791; 7.246484
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Glycine Watch SA
Formerly
  • La Glycine(1914–1916)
  • Fabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine, Piccola et Joffrette(1916–1923)
  • Fabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine(1922–1963)
Company typeSubsidiary
IndustryWatchmaking
Founded1914;110 years ago(1914)inBiel/Bienne,Switzerland
FounderEugène Meylan
HeadquartersRing 18
CH-2502 Biel/Bienne
Switzerland
47°08′30″N7°14′47″E/ 47.141791°N 7.246484°E/47.141791; 7.246484
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
ProductsWatches
ParentInvicta Watch Group
Websiteglycine-watch.ch

Glycine Watch SA,or simplyGlycine(/ˈɡlaɪsiːn/ⓘ), is a Swiss watchmaker founded in 1914 inBiel/Bienne(BE), Switzerland, where its manufacturing and headquarters remain today. In 1930, Glycine released the first mass-producedautomatic watches,and in 1959, it developed vacuum-sealed cases, allowing for more durable and water-resistant timepieces. The Glycine Airman, the first watch capable of tracking two 24-hour time zones, has been used extensively in commercial and military aviation, as well as in spaceflights; notable examples include its use byUnited States Air Forcepilots during theVietnam Warand astronautPete Conradduring theGemini 5andGemini 11spaceflights.

History

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1891–1940: Early history

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Eugène Meylan[2]

Eugène Meylan was born in 1891 inLe Chenit,Switzerland,[3]and attended watchmaking school at School Of Arts Appliqués (Ecole d'arts appliqués) inLa Chaux-de-Fondsfrom 1910 to 1911. Meylan was noted to be a gifted student, receiving top rating for a watch he submitted to theCOSCwhile a student. In 1914, at age 23, Meylan established his watch companyLa Glycinein Biel/Bienne.[2]Two years later, watchmakers Piccola and Joffrette became co-owners of the company andLa GlycinebecameFabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine, Piccola et Joffrette.[3]In the 1920s, the watch company mostly made pocket watches[4]and women's watches that were known for their interchangeable components, allowing them to be serviced more easily than the competition. In 1922, the company and its factory were sold to Pretto Watch Company owner Ferdinand Engel and watchmaker George Flury and was renamedFabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine.[5]

Development of automatic watches

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Illustration attached to Meylan's automatic module patent
Illustration attached to Meylan's automatic module patent[6]

With the original patent for self-winding watches set to expire in the early 1930s,[3]Meylan (founder of Glycine but no longer affiliated with the company) began working on his own self-winding mechanism and formed the companyAutomatic E.M.S.A.(Eugène Meylan Société Anonyme). Meylan's automatic watch design was unusual: a separate module that could be used with nearly any 8.75 ligne (19.74 millimeter) watch movement. Meylan applied for a series of patents for his design in 1930. Later that year in October, Glycine, in collaboration with Meylan's new company,[5]manufactured the first mass-produced automatic watches,[3]allowing it to survive the global depression in the 1930s, that caused many Swiss watchmakers to close shop.[7]

1941–1960

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In 1942, Glycine's in-house movement was acquired byASUAG,an entity created by the Swiss government during theGreat Depressionto preserve Swiss watchmaking. (In the 1980s, through a series of mergers, ASUAG became part ofThe Swatch Group,[8]a Swiss conglomerate consisting of numerous watchmakers, includingOmega,Longines,andHamilton.)[9]ASUAG's funding combined with Glycine's craftsmen allowed ASUAG to produce the first bi-directional winding rotor. Also in 1942, Glycine owner Ferdinand Engel died,[2]and the company was turned over to Charles Hertig of the Altus Watch Company. (Altus and Glycine merged in 1963.)[5]DuringWorld War II,Glycine received an order for watches from the German army for its land forces; Glycine complied, and its watches were issued to German soldiers.[2]

Vacuum-sealed case

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In 1959, Hans Ulrich Klingenberg, working for Glycine, developed the vacuum-sealed watch case.[10]His design featured a one-piece case with a flat crystal, held against a thick gasket ring by bezel clamps, and an oversized crown with three round gaskets. This provided an airless environment inside the watch, preventing lubrication from drying out and preventing condensation from entering the case, allowing for more durable watches and less service requirements. A separate device was included to allow the vacuum seal to be re-established every three to five years.[11]The patent for vacuum casing (CH 355742) was applied in 1959 and issued in 1961.[10]

"In a Vacuum:A watch that never needs cleaning or lubrication and is permanently air-, water-, dust-, and corrosion-proof has been developed by Glycine Watch Factory, Inc., of Bienne, Switzerland. The watch’s precision movement operates in a near vacuum, sealed within a metal case and crystal from which the air has been removed. "[12]

Newsweek,1961

The Airman

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U.S. Air Forcepilot during theVietnam Warwearing a Glycine Airman[13]

The Airman debuted in 1953 and was designed by Glycine with full consultation from the U.S. Air Force and made available atexchange storeson military bases. Its design allowed servicemen to simultaneously know the time at home and the local time while in combat.[7]The Airman featured a date function, as well as a 24-hour dial and engraved, rotating 24-hour bezel with locking mechanism that allowed capability to tell time in two different time zones.[14]Shortly after its military success, the Airman obtained civilian success with the emergence of commercial intercontinental flights, as jet-setters sought a watch able to simultaneously tell home time and destination time.[7]

1961–1980

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Murder of Glycine founder

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On September 24, 1955, the body of Glycine founder Eugène Meylan, age 64, was found stoned to death in a remote path east ofNeuchâtel,Switzerland. Leading up to his death, Meylan was bankrupt and left hisGenevahome for Neuchâtel for unknown reasons. Edouard Glatz, a mechanic apprentice, confessed to killing Meylan. Glatz claimed he drank a pint of wine at an establishment with Meylan and accompanied Meylan to a train station, where Meylan planned to take the first train toZürich.According to Glatz, the station had not yet opened and the pair took off on an obscure path to wait. Glatz admitted he punched Meylan to the ground, kicked him in the head, stoned him to death, and robbed him. In January 1956, Glatz was found guilty of murder and sentenced to five months in prison.[15]

Gemini spaceflights and Boeing

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Conrad suiting up for Gemini 11 with an Airman on his right arm[16]

AstronautPete Conradwore his Glycine Airman for the 1965Gemini 5spaceflight and again in 1966 forGemini 11.The capsule used in the Gemini 11 spaceflight featured an open-cockpit design, exposing Conrad and his wrist to outer space during his colleague's 2 hour and 41 minute spacewalk, making Conrad's Airman the first automatic watch flown in and exposed to outer space.[17]

Through a relationship withBoeing,[7]Glycine introduced the Airman SST in 1967, inspired bysupersonic transportaircraft. It featured atonneau-shaped case, orange dial, and internal rotating bezel.[14]Due to their orange dials, the watches are referred to aspumpkinsby some collectors.[18]

The quartz crisis

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During the 1970s, many Swiss watchmakers struggled with the emergence of battery-operatedquartz watches,which were more affordable and accurate than mechanical watches. During thequartz crisis,many Swiss watchmakers eventually disappeared, became bankrupt, or were sold off to conglomerates. Glycine adapted by debuting its own quartz watches, including digital models withLED screens.Glycine's LED watches were made possible through Ditronic, a collaboration with four other Swiss watchmakers, formed in an effort to stay afloat during the quartz crisis.[2]

1981–present: New ownership

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Glycine Airman Base 22
Airman Base 22 (ref. GL0208)

In 1984, Hans Brechbühler, a businessman in the watch industry, purchased Glycine.[19]Brechbühler's youngest daughter Katharina joined Glycine in 1992. Four years later, Glycine launched its first website.[2]In 2000, the father-and-daughter duo released the Airman 7; designed specifically for pilots in the United States with its "coast to coast"[7]concept, it was the first watch available with four time zones (for the four time zones of the contiguous United States).[7]Katharina assumed sole control of Glycine in 2005 with a goal to deprioritize quartz and focus largely on mechanical offerings.[7]After Hans Brechbühler died in 2010,[2]Katharina sold Glycine to Altus Uhren Holding AG; Katharina remained with the company to supervise design.[19]Under Altus, Glycine re-released the Airman in its original 36 millimeter case size as the Airman No. 1 and released a 60th anniversary Airman AM/PM model.[2]

“I joined at the height of the quartz crisis and it became our goal to strip everything back to the beginning, to the mechanical."[7]

Katharina Brechbühler,former owner of Glycine

A 36-millimeter variant of the Combat Sub (ref. GL0396)

In 2016,Invicta Watch Grouppurchased Glycine for an undisclosed amount,[20]with Invicta promising Glycine will maintain its independence while Invicta assists with marketing and distribution.[21]Leadership remained the same under Invicta as it did under Altus until 2019, when Invicta appointed Daniele Andreatta as Glycine's managing director.[2]

Patents

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  • 1917: Glycine's first patent—a wristwatch strap buckle clasp[22]
  • 1929: Patent for small, pill-shaped watch module that could fit into various cases[23]
  • 1930: Patent for a watch with window to display the date[24]
  • 1930: Eugène Meylan's patent for automatic modules for watches (not Glycine's, but Meylan's personal patent, used in Glycine's first automatic watches)[2][6]
  • 1931: Patent for a fold-out lever crown to set the time[25]
  • 1953: Patent for a 24-hour watch, used for the Airman[26]
  • 1955: Patent for a seconds hacking mechanism, invented by Georges Godat, and purchased by Glycine for its use in the Airman and Combat[2][27]
  • 1959: Glycine's patent for vacuum-sealed watch cases[10]
  • 1970: Glycine's final patent—a crown allowing the operator to regulate time[28]


Etymology

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In most languages, glycine refers toan amino acid;the watch company is named for theWisteriagenus of plant, known asfleur de Glycinein French. Katharina Brechbühler, owner of Glycine in the 2000s, claims the company's name is a result of its founding during theJugendstilperiod, when plant-inspired motifs and floral designs were in fashion.Fleur de Glycinewas chosen due to its vining growth structure found in a multitude of conditions, similar to Glycine watches, designed to tolerate a multitude of harsh conditions like diving and outer space. The plant flourishes without much care, like the reliable watches Glycine has strived to produce throughout its history.[14]

Glycine factory withfleur de Glycinegrowing on its exterior[14]
Fleur de Glycine, or Wisteria
Fleur de Glycine,orWisteria

Logo controversy

[edit]

In its early years, Glycine used a logo with two flags and "LG" initials forLa Glycineand in the 1940s used a crest logo. In 1965, the company debuted its crown logo, and in 2015, added wings to the design to reference its historical ties to aviation.[2]Its crown logo with wings sparked a lawsuit fromGiorgio Armaniin 2017, claiming it was confusingly similar to its eagle logo. The Commercial Court ofBernruled in favor of Armani; however, Glycine successfully appealed the decision. In 2019, theFederal Supreme Court of Switzerlandoverturned the Bern court's decision, allowing Glycine to use its new logo;[29]despite this, Glycine returned to its original crown logo without wings later that year.[2]

Comparison of logos
Logo used until 1930
1940s logo
Current logo, debuted in 1965
Crown with wings; used briefly, sparking lawsuit from Armani
Giorgio Armani logo

References

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  1. ^Gubagaras, Mark Anthony (May 3, 2019)."Evine Live gets investment from Invicta Watch Group, names new CEO".S&P Global.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
  2. ^abcdefghijklmKiris, Emre (2013)."Glycine Watches SA History & Timeline".Glycintennial.RetrievedAugust 16,2022.
  3. ^abcdFoskett, Stephen (July 19, 2021)."Eugène Meylan, Glycine, and the Fight Over the First Automatic Watch".Grail Watch.RetrievedAugust 15,2022.
  4. ^"A Glycine Watch to Convey Your Christmas Thoughts".The Washington Post.No. 18812. December 18, 1927. p. 34.RetrievedSeptember 6,2022.
  5. ^abcFoskett, Steven (July 19, 2021)."Eugène Meylan, Glycine, and the Fight Over the First Automatic Watch".Grail Watch.RetrievedAugust 15,2022.
  6. ^abCH 149137,Meylan, Eugène, "Dipositif de remontage automatique de mouvement d'horlogerie", published October 15, 1930, issued November 11, 1931
  7. ^abcdefghLlewellyn, Tracey (2009)."Design for Life: Glycine"(PDF).QP Magazine.1(39): 87 – via QP Magazine Archive.
  8. ^Staff writer(s) (June 28, 2010)."Swatch Group founder Nicolas Hayek dies at 82".Reuters.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
  9. ^Naas, Roberta (July 29, 2018)."Swatch Group Brands Quit Baselworld And What It Means For The Watch Industry".Forbes.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
  10. ^abcCH 355742,Klingenberg, Hans Ulrich, "Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Uhrgehäuses und nach diesem Verfahren hergestelltes Uhrengehäuse", published June 23, 1959, issued August 31, 1961, assigned toFabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine
  11. ^Hailwood, Adrian (December 26, 2019)."The Vacuum Watch You May Never Have Heard Of…".Revolution Watch.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
  12. ^"What's Newest".Newsweek.Vol. 58, no. 15. October 9, 1961. p. 88.RetrievedSeptember 6,2022.
  13. ^Hartov, Oren (April 17, 2018)."The PX Watches of Vietnam: A Survey of Non-Issued, Popular Military Watches of the Vietnam War".Worn & Wound.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
  14. ^abcdStikkers, Andre (2014).Glycine Airman Book - Play it again Sam! Airman History and Overview(3rd ed.). The Netherlands: Adr. Heinen. pp. 15, 66.ISBN9789086801572.
  15. ^"L'affaire du Mail"[The Circle].Der Kreis(in French). Vol. 1956, no. 5. Zürich. May 1956. pp. 29–31.doi:10.5169/seals-569258.RetrievedMay 7,2024.
  16. ^Gerber, Ben (August 17, 2015)."Glycine Airman in Space".24hourWatch.RetrievedAugust 13,2022.
  17. ^Pennington, Cole (May 5, 2021)."Eight Space Watches That Aren't The Speedmaster Professional".Hodinkee.RetrievedAugust 13,2022.
  18. ^"Vintage Watches: A 1970s Porsche Design By Orfina, A 1972 Rolex GMT-Master, And A 1978 Tudor Submariner".Hodinkee.October 28, 2020.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
  19. ^ab"Glycine".Vintage Watch, Inc.November 29, 2020.RetrievedAugust 16,2022.
  20. ^"BRIEF-DKSH Holding sells Glycine Watch company to Invicta Watch Group".Reuters.August 11, 2016.RetrievedAugust 17,2022.
  21. ^Ryvin, Ilya (September 13, 2016)."Under Invicta, Glycine Promises to Focus on Airman and Combat Lines".Worn and Wound.RetrievedFebruary 22,2018.
  22. ^CH 77684,Fabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine, "Riemenschloß", published August 27, 1917, issued September 16, 1918
  23. ^CH 143069,Fabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine, "Movement de montre de forme, plus particulièrement de forme bagnette", published October 31, 1930, issued January 2, 1931
  24. ^CH 148534,Fabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine, "Montre bracelet à guichets", published July 31, 1931, issued October 1, 1931
  25. ^CH 159200,Fabrique d’Horlogerie La Glycine, "Dispositif de mise à l'heure pour montre à remontage automatique", published October 19, 1931, issued March 16, 1933
  26. ^CH 314050,Hans-Werner-Samuel Glur et Charles Hertig, Evilard, "Montre 24 heures", published December 2, 1953, issued July 14, 1956
  27. ^CH 323980,Godat, Georges, "Montre munie d'une aiguille des secondes", published March 17, 1955, issued October 15, 1957
  28. ^CH 538135,Courtemaîche, Denis Maillard, "Dispositif de réglage de la raquette d'un mouvement de montre actionnable de l'extérieur de la boîte", published April 1, 1970, issued July 31, 1973, assigned toFabriques d'Horlogerie GlycineandAltus SA
  29. ^O'Neill, Rory (July 18, 2019)."Armani hit with TM defeat by top Swiss court".World Intellectual Property Review.RetrievedSeptember 12,2022.
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