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Grape syrup

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"Carenum" redirects here. For the genus of insects, seeCarenum (beetle).
Eight-flavor syrup dispenser including grape syrup
Jallabsyrup made from carob, dates, grape molasses and rose water; used to make jallab tea
Churchkhela,a snack made from nuts (walnuts or hazelnuts, usually) dipped in grape syrup

Grape syrupis acondimentmade with concentratedgrapejuice. It is thick and sweet because of its high ratio of sugar to water. Grape syrup is made by boiling grapes, removing their skins, squeezing them through asieveto extract the juice. Like otherfruit syrups,a common use of grape syrup is as a topping to sweet cakes, such aspancakesorwaffles.

Names and etymology[edit]

The ancient Greek name for grape syrup issiraios(σιραίος), in the general category ofhepsema(ἕψημα), which translates to 'boiled'.[1]The Greek name was used inCreteand, in modern times, inCyprus.[2]

Petimeziis the name for a type of Mediterranean grape syrup. The word comes from theTurkishpekmez,which usually refers to grape syrup, but is also used to refer tomulberryand other fruit syrups.[3][4]

Vincotto(not to be confused withvino cotto) is the southern Italian term for grape syrup. It is made only from cooked wine grape must (mosto cotto), with no fermentation involved. There is no alcohol or vinegar content, and no additives, preservatives or sweeteners are added. It is both a condiment and ingredient used in either sweet or savory dishes.

History[edit]

Greco-Roman[edit]

One of the earliest mentions of grape syrup comes from the fifth-century BC Greek physicianHippocrates,who refers tohépsēma(ἕψημα), the Greek name for the condiment.[5]The fifth-century BC Athenian playwrightAristophanesalso makes a reference to it, as does Roman-era Greek physicianGalen.[5]

Grape syrup was known by different names inAncient Roman cuisinedepending on the boiling procedure.Defrutum,carenum,andsapawere reductions ofmust.They were made by boiling down grape juice or must in large kettles until it had been reduced to two-thirds of the original volume,carenum;half the original volume,defrutum;or one-third,sapa.The Greek name for this variant of grape syrup wassiraion(σίραιον).[6]

The main culinary use ofdefrutumwas to help preserve and sweetenwine,but it was also added tofruitandmeatdishes as a sweetening and souring agent and even given to food animals such asducksand sucklingpigsto improve the taste of their flesh.Defrutumwas mixed withgarumto make the popular condimentoenogarum.Quinceandmelonwere preserved indefrutumandhoneythrough the winter, and some Roman women useddefrutumorsapaas acosmetic.Defrutumwas often used as a food preservative in provisions for Roman troops.[7]

There is some confusion as the amount of reduction forsapaanddefrutum.As James Grout explains in itsEncyclopedia Romana,[8]authors informed different reductions, as follows:

The elder Cato, Columella, and Pliny all describe how unfermented grape juice (mustum,must) was boiled to concentrate its natural sugars. "A product of art, not of nature," the must was reduced to one half (defrutum) or even one third its volume (sapa) (Pliny, XIV.80),[9]although the terms are not always consistent. Columella identifiesdefrutumas "must of the sweetest possible flavour" that has been boiled down to a third of its volume (XXI.1).[10]Isidore of Seville, writing in the seventh century AD, says that it issapathat has been reduced by a third but goes on to imagine thatdefrutumis so called because it has been cheated or defrauded (defrudare) (Etymologies, XX.3.15).[11]Varro reverses Pliny's proportions altogether (quoted in Nonius Marcellus, De Conpendiosa Doctrina, XVIII.551M).[12]

Defrutumis mentioned in almost all Roman books dealing withcookingor household management.Pliny the Elderrecommended thatdefrutumonly be boiled at the time of thenew moon,whileCato the Censorsuggested that only the sweetest possibledefrutumshould be used.

Inancient Rome,grape syrup was often boiled inleadpots, which sweetened the syrup through the leaching of the sweet-tasting chemical compoundlead acetateinto the syrup. Incidentally, this is thought to have causedlead poisoningfor Romans consuming the syrup.[13][14]A 2009History Channeldocumentary produced a batch of historically accuratedefrutumin lead-lined vessels and tested the liquid, finding a lead level of 29,000 parts per billion (ppb), which is 2,900 times higher than contemporary American drinking water limit of 10 ppb. These levels are easily high enough to cause either acutelead toxicityif consumed in large amounts or chronic lead poisoning when consumed in smaller quantities over a longer period of time (asdefrutumwas typically used).[14]

However, the use of leaden cookware, though popular, was not the general standard of use. Copper cookware was used far more generally and no indication exists as to how oftensapawas added or in what quantity. There is not, however, scholarly agreement on the circumstances and quantity of lead in these ancient Roman condiments. For instance, the original research was done byJerome Nriagu,but was criticized by John Scarborough, a pharmacologist and classicist, who characterized Nriagu's research as "so full of false evidence, miscitations, typographical errors, and a blatant flippancy regarding primary sources that the reader cannot trust the basic arguments."[15]

Islam[edit]

In early Islam,hépsēmawas known in Arabic astilā’.Early caliphs distributedtilā’to Muslim troops along with other foodstuffs, considering that it was no longer intoxicating. However, fermentation could resume in the amphorae, and in the late 710s, Caliph‘Umar IIprohibited drinking this beverage.[16]

Modern[edit]

Cyprus[edit]

The ancient Greek namehépsēma(now pronouncedépsēmainCypriot Greek) is still used to refer to the condiment, which is still made inCyprus.

Greece[edit]

Petimezi
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)
Energy1,380 kJ (330 kcal)
80.9 g
0.4 g
0.9 g
MineralsQuantity
%DV†
Calcium
6%
74 mg
Iron
7%
1.2 mg
Phosphorus
3%
40 mg
Varkazas, p. 203
†Percentages estimated usingUS recommendationsfor adults,[17]except for potassium, which is estimated based on expert recommendation fromthe National Academies.[18]

Petimezi(Greek:πετιμέζιGreek pronunciation:[petiˈmezi]), also calledepsima(έψημα) and in Englishgrapemustorgrape molasses,is a syrup that isreduceduntil it becomes dark and syrupy.Petimezikeeps indefinitely. Its flavor is sweet with slightly bitter undertones. The syrup may be light or dark colored, depending on the grapes used. Before the wide availability of inexpensive cane sugar,petimeziwas a common sweetener inGreek cooking,along withcarob syrupandhoney.Petimeziis still used today in desserts and as a sweet topping for some foods. Thoughpetimezican be homemade,[19][20]it is also sold commercially under different brand names.

Fruits and vegetables that have been candied by boiling inpetimezi(epsima) are calledretselia.

From late August until the beginning of December, many Greek bakeries make and sell dark crunchy and fragrantpetimezicookies,moustokoúloura(μουστοκούλουρα).

Petimezopita(πετιμεζόπιτα) is a spiced cake withpetimezi.[21]

Iran[edit]

InIranian cuisine,grape syrup (inPersian:شیره انگور) is used to sweetenardeh (tahini),which is consumed at breakfast. An alternative isdate syrup,which is also widely used in Middle Eastern cooking.

Italy[edit]

Saba,(from the Latin wordsapa,with the same meaning),vincottoorvino cottois commonly used in Italy, especially in the regions ofEmilia Romagna,Marche,Calabria,andSardinia,where it is considered a traditional flavor.

North Macedonia[edit]

InNorth Macedonia,a form of grape syrup known asmadjun(Macedonian:Гроздов маџун) has been produced for centuries, commonly used as a sweetener, but also as traditional medicine. It never contains any added sugar.

South Africa[edit]

InSouth Africa,the grape syrup is known asmoskonfyt.

Spain[edit]

Honeyarropeflask

Arropeis a form ofgrapeconcentratetypically produced inSpain.Often derived fromgrape varietiessuch asPedro Ximénez,it is made by boilingunfermentedgrape juiceuntil the volume is reduced by at least 50%, and itsviscosityreduced to asyrup.[22][23]The final product is a thick liquid with cookedcaramelflavours, and its use is frequent as an additive for dark,sweet winessuch as sweet styles ofsherry,Malaga,andMarsala.[23]

Turkey[edit]

InTurkey,grape syrup is known aspekmez.

The Levant[edit]

Grape syrup is known asdibsor dibsal-anabin the countries of the Levant (Palestine,Jordan,Lebanon,IsraelandSyria). It is usually used as a sweetener and as part of desserts alongside carob syrup and bee honey. In areas of Palestine, it is also used to sweetenwineand eaten withlebenand toasted nuts such as walnuts and almonds for breakfast.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^The Online Liddell-Scott-Jones Greek-English Lexicons.v.
  2. ^"Έψημα".foodmuseum.cs.ucy.ac.cy(in Greek). Cyprus Food Virtual Museum.Retrieved20 November2015.
  3. ^Dictionary of the Türk Dil Kurumu[permanent dead link]
  4. ^A.D. Alderson and Fahir İz,The Concise Oxford Turkish Dictionary
  5. ^abJacques JouannaGreek Medicine from Hippocrates to Galen: Selected Papers,2012, p. 190.ISBN978 90 04 20859 9
  6. ^The Online Liddell-Scott-Jones Greek-English Lexicons.v.
  7. ^Director: Chris Warren (2004).Tales of the Living Dead: Poisoned Roman Babies(television). Brighton TV for National Geographic.
  8. ^Grout, James."Lead Poisoning and Rome".Encyclopedia Romana.James Grout.Retrieved19 August2019.
  9. ^The Elder, Pliny (1945).Natural History, Volume I: Books 1-2. Translated by H. Rackham(Loeb Classical Library ed.). Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
  10. ^Columella, Lucius Junius Moderatus (1954).On Agriculture. translated by E. S. Forster and Edward H. Heffner(Loeb Classical Library ed.). Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.ISBN9780674993983.
  11. ^Isidore of Seville's, Saint (2005).Isidore of Seville's Etymologies. The Complete Translations of Isidori Hipalensis Episcopi Etimologiarum Sive Originum Libre XX. Translated from Latin by Priscilla Throop(Priscilla Throop ed.). Charlotte, Vermont: Priscilla Throop. p. XX 3 14–15.ISBN978-1-4116-6526-2.Retrieved19 August2019.
  12. ^Marcellus, Nonius (1903).De Conpendiosa Doctrina (Vol. III)edited by Wallace M. Lindsay.
  13. ^Bernstein, Lenny (2016-02-17)."Lead poisoning and the fall of Rome".Washington Post.ISSN0190-8286.Retrieved2018-02-05.
  14. ^abNriagu, Jerome O. (17 March 1983). "Saturnine Gout among Roman Aristocrats. Did lead poisoning contribute to the fall of the Empire?".New England Journal of Medicine.308(11): 660–663.doi:10.1056/NEJM198303173081123.PMID6338384.
  15. ^Scarborough, J (October 1984). "The myth of lead poisoning among the Romans: an essay review".Journal of the History of Medicine and Allied Sciences.39(4): 469–75.doi:10.1093/jhmas/39.4.469.PMID6389691.
  16. ^Tillier, Mathieu; Vanthieghem, Naïm (2022-09-02)."Des amphores rouges et des jarres vertes: Considérations sur la production et la consommation de boissons fermentées aux deux premiers siècles de l'hégire".Islamic Law and Society.30(1–2): 1–64.doi:10.1163/15685195-bja10025.ISSN0928-9380.
  17. ^United States Food and Drug Administration(2024)."Daily Value on the Nutrition and Supplement Facts Labels".FDA.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-03-27.Retrieved2024-03-28.
  18. ^National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine; Health and Medicine Division; Food and Nutrition Board; Committee to Review the Dietary Reference Intakes for Sodium and Potassium (2019). Oria, Maria; Harrison, Meghan; Stallings, Virginia A. (eds.).Dietary Reference Intakes for Sodium and Potassium.The National Academies Collection: Reports funded by National Institutes of Health. Washington, DC: National Academies Press (US).ISBN978-0-309-48834-1.PMID30844154.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-05-09.Retrieved2024-06-21.
  19. ^Nancy Gaifyllia."Naturally Sweet Grape Syrup - Petimezi - Greek Recipe for Grape Molasses".About.com Food.Archived fromthe originalon 3 February 2016.Retrieved15 February2016.
  20. ^"Petimezi - Greek Grape Syrup".Retrieved15 February2016.
  21. ^Nancy Gaifyllia."Petimezopita Grape Molasses Spice Cake Recipe - Greek Desserts and Cake Recipes".About.com Food.Archived fromthe originalon 3 March 2016.Retrieved15 February2016.
  22. ^Robinson, Jancis, ed. (1999)."Arrope".The Oxford Companion to Wine(2nd ed.). winepros.com.au. Archived fromthe originalon 2011-07-06.
  23. ^abRobinson, Jancis, ed. (1999)."Grape concentrate".The Oxford Companion to Wine(2nd ed.). winepros.com.au. Archived fromthe originalon 2011-04-04.

Further reading[edit]

  • Theodoros Varzakas, Athanasios Labropoulos, Stylianos Anestis, eds.,Sweeteners: Nutritional Aspects, Applications, and Production Technology,2012,ISBN143987672X,p. 201ff.
  • Harris, AndyModern Greek: 170 Contemporary Recipes from the Mediterranean.Chronicle Books, 2002.ISBN0-8118-3480-8ISBN978-0-8118-3480-3
  • Ilaria G. Giacosa;A Taste of Ancient Rome;University of Chicago Press;ISBN0-226-29032-8(paperback, 1994)
  • Pliny the Elder;Natural History;tr. H. Rackham; Harvard University Press (Loeb Classical Library);ISBN0-674-99432-9(cloth, 1956)
  • Marcus Porcius Cato;On Agriculture;Harvard University Press (Loeb Classical Library);ISBN0-674-99313-6(hardcover, 1979)

External links[edit]

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