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For the human meat flavored tofu product, seeHufu (novelty item).
Hufu
HanForeigner3rdCentury
A foreign Sogdian soldier wearing a curved collar (Khúc lĩnh) short robe, Eastern Han, early 3rd century.
Northern Wei Pottery Figures (9833213205)
Figurines from Northern Wei.

On the left: Foreign fashion lapel robes

On the right: Foreign-influenced or foreign-style cross-collared robes closing to the left side instead of the right side. Traditionally, Chinese style upper garment closes to the right.
Chinese name
ChineseHồ phục
Literal meaningBarbarian clothing
Korean name
Hangul호복
HanjaHồ phục

Hufu(Chinese:Hồ phục;pinyin:húfú;Korean:호복;Hanja:Hồ phục;RR:hobok), also referred asHuclothing,[1]nomadic dress,[2]'barbarian' clothing or dress,[3][4]orforeign dress,[5]is a generic term which refers to anyclothingwhich was worn inancient Chinaand its surrounding regions by non-Han Chinese people.[6][4]This term is also used to refer to clothing of foreign origins in ancientChina.[4]The introduction ofHufu-style garments and attire in China occurred by the time ofKing Wuling of Zhao.[6]

Terminology[edit]

The term 'Hu' was adopted to refer to the non-Han Chinese population which could include the ancient 'Hu' northern nomadic people, such as theXiongnu,[1]as well as the people from the Western regions such asSogdians,[7]: 284 theSasanidPersian, theTurkic people(Tujue),Uyghur(HuiheorHuihu),Tibetans(Tufan), and theKhitans(Qidan) who lived in the north and west regions of the empire.[4]

Cultural significance and distinction[edit]

The traditional way to distinguish betweenHufuandHanfu,Chinese clothing, is by the direction in which thegarment collarcloses.[8]

Chinese collar customs[edit]

Main articles:Ru (upper garment),Paofu,andHanfu

Clothing style which overlaps in the front and closes to the right, known asyouren(Chinese:Hữu nhẫm) originated in China,[9]and started to be worn in theShang dynastyin China.[10][11]Theyourencollar is an important symbol of theHan Chinese,and traditionallyChinese robesandChinese jacketsmust cover the right part of the body.[12]However, the Chinese did also wear clothing which overlaps in the front and is closed on the left side, in a style known aszuoren(Chinese:Tả nhẫm). According to theShuowen Jiezi《Thuyết văn giải tự》, a form ofpaofu,known asxi(Tập), was arobewith azuorenclosure.[13]The coat known aszhe(Điệp;sometimes referred asxi), typically used as part of thekuzhe,was also axi(Tập) according to theShiming.[14]

Left: Figure of a warrior, wearing a form of kuxi which closes to the left ( tả nhẫm ), a feature associated with Hufu-style clothing, Northern Qi. Right: Figure of an officer wearing a type of kuxi which closes to the right ( hữu nhẫm ) in a typical Chinese way, Northern Wei.

The use ofzuoren,however, was typically associated with funeral practices. This can also be found in the chapterSang da ji《TangĐạiKý》of theLiji《LễKý》:

"At both the dressings the sacrificial robes were not placed below the others. They were all placed with the lapel to lie on the left side. The bands were tied firmly, and not in a bow-knot [ tiểu liễm đại liễm, tế phục bất đảo, giai tả nhẫm kết giảo bất nữu ]."

According to ancient Chinese beliefs, the only moment the Han Chinese was supposed to close their clothing in thezuoren-style is when they dressed their deceased.[12]This funeral practice is due to ancient Chinese beliefs in theyin and yangtheory, where it is believed that the left represents theyangaspect and stands for life whereas the right represents theyinaspect which stands for death.[15]Based on this belief, the left lapel needs to be outside (i.e.youren) to indicate that the power of theyangis suppressing theyin,which therefore symbolized the clothing of living people.[15]However, if theyinaspect surpasses theyang,which is represented by thezuoren,then this formzuoren-style clothing becomes the clothing worn by the deceased.[15]It is therefore taboo in Chinese clothing culture for a living person to wearzuoren.[15]

Some paintings of the Ming dynasty depicts the Han Chinese withzuorenclothing, an atypical feature

The rule of wearingyourenwas not always respected by the Han Chinese: for example, in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could be found wearing left-lapel clothing in some areas (such as NorthernHebei);[16]and following the fall of the Yuan dynasty, left lapelrucontinued to be worn in some areas of theMing dynastydespite the dynasty being led by Han Chinese, which is an atypical feature of the period.[17]

Collar customs of ethnic minorities, non-Chinese ethnicities, and foreigners[edit]

Xiongnuleather robe closing to the left side (zuoren), Han period.

On the other hand, some ethnic minorities, such as the Xianbei,[18]: 407–408 Khitans,[19][20]: 130–135 and other kingdoms such as Goguryeo,[21]who were living in surrounding areas had clothing which generally closed in thezuoren-style in ancient China.[12]This can also be found in theAnalectswhereConfuciushimself praisedGuan Zhongfor preventing the weakenedZhou dynastyfrom becoming barbarians:[22][23][24]

"But for Guan Zhong, we should now be wearing our hair unbound [pifa], and the lapels of our coats buttoning on the left side [zuoren]. [ vi quản trọng, ngô kỳ bị phát tả nhẫm hĩ ]."

Based on Confucius' sayings,pifa zuoren(simplified Chinese:Bị phát tả nhẫm;traditional Chinese:Bị phát tả nhẫm;pinyin:bèifà zuǒrèn;lit.'unbound hair left lapel'), bound hair and coats which closed on the left side in thezuoren-style, was associated with the clothing customs of the northern nomadic ethnic groups who were considered as barbarians.[22]During his time, unbound hair and clothing closing to the left were the clothing customs of the northern nomadic ethnic groups which were considered as barbarians by the Han Chinese.[22]Moreover, from the standpoint of theHuaxiaculture,pifawas a way to reject refined culture and being turned into a barbarian.[25]: 101 

By theHan dynasty,since Confucius himself was the first person to use the phrasepifa zuorento refer toNon-Zhou dynastypeople, this phrase became a commonmetaphorfor primitiveness.[25]: 103 When used by the ancient Chinese literati, the concept ofpifa zuorenbecame a phrase, which held the symbolic of foreign people who were living a barbarous and civilized lifestyle; this concept also became a way to emphasize the customs differences between the Han people and other ethnic minorities and draw the line to distinguish who were considered as civilized and barbarians.[25]: 103 Thezuorenthus also became a reference toHufu,Hufu-style, and/or to the rule of foreign nationalities;[12]for example, as observed in theLiao dynasty[26]: 267 and in the female clothing of theYuan dynastywhen it was a common practice for some Chinese women to change the direction of their collar to the left side.[17]Some non-Chinese ethnicity who adoptedHanfu-style sometimes maintain their left lapels, such as theKhitansin the Liao dynasty.[26]: 267 

History[edit]

Warring States period[edit]

Hufuqishepolicy[edit]

See also:ShankuandKu and Kun (Chinese trousers)
One of the earliest Chinese representations of nomadic peoples on the northern frontier; a charioteer wearing a short sword and belted jacket, a form of clothing which was designed for an equestrian culture, Warring States period (475–221 B.C.), China.[27]

During theWarring States period,King Wuling of Zhao(r. 326–298 BC) instituted theHufuqishe(Chinese:Hồ phục kỵ xạ;lit.'Hu clothing and mounted archery') policies which involved the adoption ofHufuto facilitate horse riding.[1][10]During this period, the term 'Hufu' was coined after the 'Hu' people, who were northern nomadic people.[1]

In theShiji《Sử ký》,Zhao Shijia(lit. 'Hereditary Family of Zhao'), it is said that King Wuling undertook those sartorial reforms in the 19th year of his reign in 307 BCE.[1]However, according to theBamboo Annals,an annalistic history of Wei unearthed from a Wei King tomb in 279 BC, the Zhao court had ordered commanders, officers, and their families, and garrison guards to adoptHefu(Chinese:Hạc phục) in 302 BC.[1]The term 'He' used in the Bamboo Annals is a synonym of the term 'Hu' which refers to the northern nomadic people.[1]

Under this sartorial and military reform, all the soldiers of King Wuling had to wear the uniforms ofDonghu,Linhu, and Loufan in battles.[28]: 257 The choice to adopt cavalry and the departure from the chariot warfare from the 8th to 5th century BC showed the influence of theXiongnu,who were the northern neighbour of theZhao state.[1]The reality or the extent of King Wuling's reforms is a disputed subject among historians.[1]

TheHufuadopted by King Wuling can be described asshangxi xiaku(Chinese:Thượng điệp hạ khố;pinyin:shangxi xiaku;lit.'short coat on upper body', 'trousers on lower body');[29]this form of attire is described as being composed of trousers, a (short[10][30][28]: 257 ) shirt or jacket with tighter (tubular-shaped[30]) sleeves,[1][2]xue(Chinese:Ngoa;lit.'boots'),[10][28]: 257 belt,[28]: 257 [30]and belt buckle.[28]: 257 

Left: Figurine of the foreign Hu wearing what appears to be a round collar garment, Warring States period. Right: Bronze belt Hooks, Warring States period.

However, theHufu-style trousers introduced by King Wuling were characterized with loose rises and differed from the indigenousku(Chinese:Khố) of the Chinese; theHufu-style trousers could be described as form ofkun(Chinese:Côn); thekunwere trousers which had rise to cover the crotch areas.[31]A conical cap which resembles Scythian hats was also adopted as part of theHufuqishe.[29]Of note of importance, although theHufu-style attire adopted by King Wuling appears to be similar toScythian clothing,theHufuwhich appears in classical Chinese text were actually different from the historical Scythian clothing.[29]For example, the hat adopted by King Wuling was less pointy that the Scythian hat and were decorated with amartentail.[29]

In the Warring States period, the wearing of short upper garment worn by the Chinese which is belted with a woven silk band and had a right-opening also influenced theHufu;this form of attire was worn together with trousers allowing greater ease of movement.[32]This form of clothing attire was most likely worn by peasants and labourers.[32]

Influence ofHufu-stylekunon the development of Chinese trousers,ku[edit]

Prior to the introduction ofHufuby King Wuling, Chinese people wore thetraditional Chinese clothing systemwhich consisted of the combination ofyi(Chinese:Y) orru(Chinese:Nhu), both of which were upper garment which typically closed to the right in a style known asjiaoling youren(Chinese:Giao lĩnh hữu nhẫm),[33]the indigenous Chinese trousers referred asku(Chinese:Khố), also known asjingyi(Chinese:Hĩnh y), which were in the form of knee-high trousers which were tied to the calves of the wearer allowing the thighs to be exposed and appeared as early as the Neolithic period and was the original form ofkutrousers) in early time, andchang(Thường,a lower skirt) which is the predecessor ofqun(Quần), to hide the lower body.[29][31]People could also wear yichang (Y thường) without wearingku.[31]

The type of trousers introduced by King Wuling in Central China was referred askun( côn ) instead ofku;thekunwere trousers with loose rise (i.e. which cover the crotch areas) which was first used among the military troops.[31]As thekun-trousers did not conform to the traditional culture of the Han, the kun was mainly worn by warriors and servants, butkunwere not used by the general population as people found it hard to adjust the use of kun in their daily activities.[31]The kun however influenced the development of jingyi by transforming the jingyi into becoming longer, stretched up to the thighs regions, and the waist become enclosed however the rise and rear of those trousers were open which allowed for the purpose of urinating and defecting; this then became the pattern ofku-rousers.[31]This form ofku-trousers was more accepted in the Han tradition than thekun,and evolved into other forms of ku trousers of the later dynasties, such as qiongku (trousers with hip and rise area closed in the front and tied at the back with multiple strings) which was designed in the Western Han dynasty.[31]

Kun trousers introduced by King Wuling later developed into other forms of trousers in the later period, such asdashao(trousers with extremely wide legs) which appeared in the Han dynasty and dakouku (trousers which were tied under the knees).[31]These forms of trousers were Chinese innovations.[31]

Han dynasty[edit]

Some forms ofhanfuworn in theEastern Han dynastystarted to be influenced by the costumes of theHu(Hồ) people and the gown with round collar started to appear.[34]However, in this period, the round collar gown was more commonly used as an under-garment.[34]

Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties[edit]

This was a period of cultural integration and cultural exchange between the Han Chinese and the other ethnic groups.[30]The Han Chinese living in the South liked the driving clothing of the Northern minorities which was composed of trousers and xi (a close-fitting short robe with round neck and tight sleeves).[30]The northern nomads also introduced their leather boots (Chinese:Ngoa;pinyin:xue),[7]: 317 quekua (Chinese:Khuyết khố;a type of crotch-length garment which was a long jacket with tight sleeves but less overlap compared to the traditional clothing worn by the Chinese allowing greater ease of movement; the collar was either round and snug or slightly plunged allowing the undershirt to be visible) and the hood and cape ensemble in China.[7]: 317 However, not all stylistic innovations in clothing came from the Northern minorities in this period.[7]: 317 For example, the trousers tied with chords below the knee worn in the kuxi ( khố điệp; lit. 'trousers and jacket') during the Six dynasties were Chinese inventions and were not nomadic clothing.[7]: 317 The Kuzhe ( khố điệp ) of the late Northern dynasties was a creation of Han culture which was developed through the assimilation of non-Han culture.[31]

Influences of the Xianbei and ban of Xianbei clothing[edit]

During theWei,Jin,Northern and Southern dynasties,northern nomadic peoples introduced other styles of round collar (Chinese:Bàn lĩnh;pinyin:panling)[35]robe in China.[7]Theround collar robeintroduced by theXianbeihad tight sleeves which allowed for greater ease of riding when horse riding.[7]Since theNorthern Wei dynasty,the shapes of theHan Chineserobes started to be influenced by the round collar robes.[36]The Xianbei were originally a branch of theDonghuwhich were defeated by the Xiongnu but they later claimed to be descendant of theYellow Emperoras the Chinese.[37]The Northern Wei period was a period ofcultural integrationbetween the Xianbei and the Han Chinese; the Xianbei ruling elites adopted Chinese clothing and Chinese customs while the Han Chinese started to integrate some of the Xianbei's nomadic style clothing which included high boots and round-collar robes with narrow sleeves into Han clothing.[38]: 183, 185–186 In the murals of Lou Rui tomb of Northern Qi (dated to 570), a procession of riders appear to be clothed in quekua and wearing boots and headgear.[7]: 317 However, the other figures found in the tomb of Lou Rui are dressed in styles closer to the traditionalHanfustyle, showing wide sleeves and lapels closing to the right side.[38]: 187 

  • Xianbei clothing
  • Xianbei women typically wore a long robe under a jacket instead of trousers and boots.[39] Xianbei clothing had zuoren opening (i.e. closed on the left side).
    Xianbei women typically wore a long robe under a jacket instead of trousers and boots.[39]Xianbei clothing had zuoren opening (i.e. closed on the left side).
  • The cape and hood was another nomad outfit which was distinctively Xianbei.[39]
    The cape and hood was another nomad outfit which was distinctively Xianbei.[39]
  • The cape and hood was another nomad outfit which was distinctively Xianbei.[39]
    The cape and hood was another nomad outfit which was distinctively Xianbei.[39]
  • A form of kuxi. The cross collar closing to the left showing foreign influence or style instead of the right closing. The trousers are however Chinese trousers.
    A form of kuxi. The cross collar closing to the left showing foreign influence or style instead of the right closing. The trousers are however Chinese trousers.
  • Riders from the murals from the Tomb of Lou Rui appear to be wearing quekua.
    Riders from the murals from the Tomb of Lou Rui appear to be wearing quekua.

The Xianbei rulers continued to wear own distinctive Xianbei clothing in order to maintain their ethnic identity and avoid merging with the Chinese majority population.[7]: 284, 319 However, under the sinicization policies underEmperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei,Hufu(Northern barbarian clothing) was banned.[40][41]This ban ofHufualso included the ban on Xianbei clothing.[42]The ban also included non-Han language at Northern Wei court, and the changing of the royal family surname Tuoba to Yuan.[42]Many members of the Tuoba Xianbei adopted Han Chinese clothing, language, surnames and customs.[42][28]: 131 However, this sinicization policies were also met with opposition by other ethnic minority groups.[28]: 131 After the fall of the Northern Wei, male figures started to reappear wearing Xianbei-style clothing on Buddhist monuments and tomb murals; however, the Xianbei-style clothing worn by women are no longer seen in the art of China after the year 500 AD.[2]These re-emerging Xianbei clothing following the fall of the Northern Wei also showed minor changes.[18]: 407–409 After the year 500 AD, women would appear in Chinese-style clothing while men could be found dressed in either Xianbei-style or Chinese-style clothing.[2]In thetomb of Xu Xianxiu(d. 571 AD), Xu Xianxiu, aNorthern Qiaristocrat, is depicted wearing Xianbei-style tunic, trousers, and boots and what appears to be a cloak of Central Asian fashion while his wife is wear a Chinese-style robe.[2][43]Some female servants depicted on the tomb mural of Xu Xianxiu appear to be dressed in clothing which looks closer to the Xianbei style garment than the Chinese-style clothing due to the use of narrow sleeves; however, this form of clothing is not representative of the Xianbei style clothing worn before the year 500 AD.[2]

Influences of Sogdians[edit]

Sogdian musicians from a funerary couch, Northern Qi

TheSogdianswere also calledHu(Chinese:Hồ) in Chinese.[7]: 284 The Sogdians and their descendants (mostly from the merchants class) living in China during this period also wore a form of knee-lengthyuanlingpao-likekaftanthat retained their own ethnic characteristics but with some East Asian influences (i.e. Chinese and early Turks).[44]Under the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right.[44]Their robes would often be buttoned up the neck forming the round collar but occasionally the collar (or lower button) would be undone to formlapel robes(Chinese:Phiên lĩnh hồ phục;pinyin:Fānlǐng húfú;lit.'Non-Chinese lapel robes').[44][36]Lapels robes were popular in Central regions (in the Sogdian regions),QiuciandGaochangbut originated inWestern Asiabut spread eastwards through the Sogdians in Central Asia.[36]The Sogdians living inCentral AsiaandChinawore turned-down lapel robes which was popular the Sogdian region of Central Asia in the Western Asia.[44]The Sogdians in China and Sogdia had both lapels down following the Iranian tradition or the tradition of theSaka peopleliving in theKhotanOasis.[44]It was also not rare for Chinese Sogdians to wear their robes with only the left lapel which was a distinguishing feature as the only left lapel robe was rarely found inSogdia.[44]These lapels robes appeared as early as inNorthern Weidepictions and are (for now) the earliest depictions of Xianbei or Han Chinese people wearing lapels robes; these lapels robes became a popular form of fashion inNorthern Qiin the Han regions for both men and women.[36]This dressing customs of wearing lapel robe was later inherited and developed in the subsequent dynasties, in theTangandSui dynasties.[36]

Tang dynasty[edit]

TheTang dynastyalso saw the ready acceptance and syncretization with Chinese practice, of elements of foreign culture by the Han Chinese. The foreign influences prevalent during Tang China included cultures fromGandhara,Turkestan,PersiaandGreece.The stylistic influences of these cultures were fused into Tang-style clothing without any one particular culture having especial prominence.[45][46]An example of foreign influence on Tang's women clothing is the use of garment with a low-cut neckline.[28]: 272 However, just like women in the Tang dynasty period incorporated Central Asian-styles in their clothing, Central Asian women also wore some Han Chinese-style clothing from the Tang dynasty and combined elements of the Han Chinese-style attire and ornament aesthetic in their ethnic attire.[47][48]

Yuanlingshan, lapel robes, and foreign-influences on headwear[edit]

Main articles:Yuanlingshan,Fanlingpao,andMili (veil)
See also:Banbi,Humao,andWeimao
Woman wearing hufu (lapel robes and stripped Persian trousers) in Tang dynasty

In the Tang dynasty, the descendants of the Xianbei and the other non-Chinese people who ruled northern China from 304 to 581 AD lost their ethnic identity and became Chinese; the termHanwas used to refer to all people of the Tang dynasty instead of describing the population ruled by the Xianbei elites during theNorthern dynasties.[49]Theround-collar jacket and gown,tied with a belt at the waist, became a typical form of fashion for both Tang dynasty men and women as it was fashionable for women to dress like men in the Tang dynasty.[50]: 34–36 [51]

TheHufu,which was popular in this period was the clothing worn by theTartarsand the people who lived in theWestern regions,[52]: 2 was brought from theSilk Road.[52]: 1 In the early Tang dynasty, the influence of hufu was described as a pastiche of Turkic, Uyghur, Sogdian and Sasanid Persian clothing.[4]Hufu-style in this period included jacket with open-front with narrow-fitting sleeves, striped, tapered trousers, woven boots, andweimao(i.e. wide-brimmed hat with an attached gauze veil).[4]Other forms ofHufuincluded:mili( mạc 䍦), a burqua-like headwear, veil-less hat calledhumao.

Almost all figurines and mural paintings depicting female court attendants dressed in men's clothing are wearingHufu.[53]During this period, the yuanlingpao could be turned into a lapel robe (influenced by those worn by theSogdians) by unbuttoning the robes and the lapel robes could be turned into the yuanlingpao when buttoned.[36]In some unearthed pottery figures wearing lapel robes dating from the Tang dynasty, it found that the yuanlingpao had three buttons on the collar.[36]The double overturned lapels with tight-fitting sleeves were known askuapao(Chinese:Khố bào;a robe which originated fromCentral Asia[54]), and similarly to theyuanlingshan,the kuapao could be ornate with trims decorated with patterns at the front, sleeve-cuffs and along the lapels.[53]Thekuapao[55]was worn by men, but it could be used as a main garment for cross-dressing female attendant or they could be draped on the shoulders of both men and women like a cloak.[53][54]The lapel robes worn during theTang dynastywas categorized asHufuinstead ofHanfu;the use of these styles of robes showed the popularity ofHufuduring the Tang dynasty, especially during theWuzetianperiod (684–704 AD).[50]: 27 The Yuanlingpao however was categorized as Han clothing.[51]

It also popular for people to use fabrics (such as brocade) to decorate the collars, sleeves and front and their gowns; this clothing decoration customs is known as 'partial decorations of gowns' and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia who had entered China since theNorthern and Southern dynastiesperiod.[56]Influenced by foreign cultures,[56]some yuanlingshan[57]could also be decorated with Central Asian roundels (i.e. a form of partial decoration) which would run down at the centre of the robe.[53]

Huihuzhuang/Uyghur clothing[edit]

Uyghur princesses wearing Uyghur turned down lapel robes.

It was also fashionable for noble women to wearHuihuzhuang( hồi cốt trang;Uyghur dress,which is sometimes referred asHuihu-style), a turned-down lapel voluminous robes with tight sleeves which were slim-fitting, after theAn Lushan Rebellion(755–763 AD).[58][59][60][61]In 840 AD, theUyghur empirecollapsed, the Uyghur refugees fled toXinjiangand to the Southeast of Tang frontier to seek refuge, and in 843 AD, all the Uighur living in China had to wear Chinese-style clothing.[62]

Fading ofHufuin Tang[edit]

After the High Tang dynasty period, the influences ofHufuprogressively started to fade and the clothing started to become more and more loose.[52]: 2 and more traditional Han style clothing was restored.[63]

Song, Liao, Western Xia, Jin dynasties[edit]

Main articles:Fashion in the Liao dynasty,Fashion in Western Xia,andFashion in the Jurchen Jin dynasty

TheJin dynastywas founded by theJurchens.[64]In 1126, the Jurchen orders all Chinese people living in the conquered areas to shave their hair on the front and to dress only in Jurchen style.[65][66]: 281 The order to adopt Jurchen hairstyle and clothing style was an Inner Asian practice of forcing people who were living on conquered lands to show their subservience to their conquerors.[65]The order to change into Jurchen hairstyle and clothing was reinforced in 1129.[66]: 281 This order however does not appear to have been observed in a strict manner.[66]: 281 UnderHailing Wang,who was Pro-Chinese emperor, Chinese people inHonanwere allowed to wear Chinese clothing.[66]: 281 UnderEmperor Shizong,the Jurchen were prohibited to be dressed in Chinese fashion and were forbidden from adopting Chinese personal and last names; this was because during his time (1161–1189), many Jurchen appeared to have adopted Chinese behaviours while the Jurchen had forgotten their own national traditions.[66]: 281 By 1170, Chinese men had adopted either Jurchen or mixed Jurchen-Han clothing; Chinese women, especially elite women, however maintainedHan-style clothing although the clothing were outdated according to the standards of the Song dynasty.[67]The rulers of Jin gradually abandoned their own customs, including clothing and language for Chinese ones, especially after having moved their capital toKaifeng.[64]

Yuan dynasty[edit]

Yuan dynasty theatre actors wore elaborate costumes and stereotyped facial makeup; diverse costumes of different nationalities were worn,Yuan dynasty,1324 AD.
Main article:Fashion in Yuan dynasty

Mongol clothing[edit]

See also:JisünandTerlig

The Mongol of the Yuan dynasty impacted the clothing worn by the Chinese.[68]According toSong Lian(1310–1381),

"When the Song dynasty collapsed and the Yuan dynasty was founded, people's clothing changed to square and conical straw hats and clothes with narrow sleeves".[68]

Different styles of Mongol clothing were shared and used among different social classes.[68]However,Han Chinese clothingcontinued to co-exist along with Mongol clothing.[69]During this period, men's casual clothing follows those of the Han Chinese; aristocrats women mainly worn Mongol clothing while common women woreruqunandbanbi.[69]Example of Mongol clothing and hats which influenced the Han Chinese were theboli hat(Chinese:Bạt lạp mạo),terlig,jisün,Mongol-styledahu.[68]

Goryeoyang/Goryeo-style[edit]

The customs of Goryeo clothing became popular at the end of the Yuan dynasty among Mongol rulers, aristocrats, queens and imperial concubines in the capital city.[69][70]The fashion trend was dubbedgoryeoyang(Cao lệ dạng) and was described by being a banryeongbanbi(Phương lĩnh bán tí),[71]the suggested modern interpretation of the physical appearance of such garment (square collar short-sleeved upper garment[72]) was based on the same poem and was drawn in a 2005 study by senior researcher Choi.[73]

Ming dynasty[edit]

See also:Maweiqun
Water and Land Ritual paintingdepicting Han Chinese clothing and Mongolian-style clothing, unknown author,Ming dynasty

Following the fall of the Yuan dynasty, Emperor Taizu promulgated an imperial edict to restore Tang-style clothing and hats in the first year of his reign.[68][74]In the twenty fourth year of Hongwu (1391), there was an imperial edict which banned the wearing ofHufu;this was specifically for women of gentry.[68]Several other bans were made regarding the wearing of nomad clothing, which was recorded in the Ming dynasty historical records (for example, in 1442, 1491, etc.).[68]Throughout the Ming dynasty period, there were several prohibitions on Mongol style clothing; however, certain clothing of the Ming dynasty influenced or derived from the Mongol clothing continued to be used, such asyesaanddahu.[68]

Qing dynasty[edit]

Main article:Manchu clothing

Clothing categorized asHufu[edit]

Influences[edit]

Clothing influenced byHufuand/orHufuwhich were adopted and localized into Hanfu are:

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^The wuguan ( võ quan ) is a militaryguan,which was derived from the zhaohuiwenguan, the guan which was used byKing Huiwen of Zhao.King Huiwen wore the same guan as his father, King Wuling of Zhao, which was a hufu-style hat decorated with marten tail.
  2. ^The heguan is a type of militaryguan,decorated with two pheasant feathers, which is possibly derived from the hufu-style hat adopted by King Wuling of Zhao as part of the hufuqishe policy

References[edit]

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  2. ^abcdefLINGLEY, KATE A. (2010)."NATURALIZING THE EXOTIC: On the Changing Meanings of Ethnic Dress in Medieval China".Ars Orientalis.38:50–80.ISSN0571-1371.JSTOR29550020.
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