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Ilford

Coordinates:51°33′27″N00°05′09″E/ 51.55750°N 0.08583°E/51.55750; 0.08583
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For other uses, seeIlford (disambiguation).

Ilford
From top to bottom:Redbridge Town Hallon Ilford High Road; Ilford Hill
Ilford is located in Greater London
Ilford
Ilford
Location withinGreater London
Population168,168 (2011 Census)[1]
OS grid referenceTQ445865
•Charing Cross9.0 mi (14.5 km)WSW
London borough
Ceremonial countyGreater London
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townILFORD
Postcode districtIG1-IG6
Dialling code020
PoliceMetropolitan
FireLondon
AmbulanceLondon
UK Parliament
London Assembly
List of places
UK
England
London
51°33′27″N00°05′09″E/ 51.55750°N 0.08583°E/51.55750; 0.08583

Ilfordis a large town inEast London,England, 9 miles (14 km) northeast ofCharing Cross.Part of theLondon Borough of Redbridge,Ilford is within theceremonial countyofGreater London.It had a population of 168,168 in 2011, compared to 303,858 for the entire borough.

Identified as a metropolitan centre in theLondon Plan,Ilford's commercial and retail centre is surrounded by extensive residential development. The town is on the transport corridor between London and coastal Essex, with both theA12and thecentral railway stationlinking the regions. In recent years, as a result of increased levels of immigration, Ilford has become one of the mostmulticulturaltowns in England.

Historically a small rural settlement in theancient parishofBarkingin theBecontree hundredof thehistoric countyofEssex,its strategic position on theRiver Rodingand theLondon to Colchester roadmade it a coaching town.[2]The arrival of the railway in 1839 accelerated its growth, leading to the area becoming part of theconurbationwithLondon.It split from the parish of Barking in 1888, and, in the 20th century, Ilford significantly expanded and increased in population,becoming a municipal boroughin 1926. In 1965, it merged withWanstead and Woodford,also incorporating parts of neighbouring districts, to form the London Borough of Redbridge, part of Greater London.

Origins and administration[edit]

Toponymy[edit]

Ilford was historically known asGreat Ilfordto differentiate it from nearbyLittle Ilford.[3]The name is first recorded in theDomesday Bookof 1086 asIlefortand means "fordover the Hyle "." Hyle "is an old Celtic name for theRiver Rodingthat means "trickling stream". Great and Little Ilford share the place name origin,[3]but the Domesday reference is to the Little Ilford area.[4]

Great and Little Ilford appear to have always been distinct areas separated by the Roding. The place names of Great and Little Ilford both appear to derive from the ford (and river), rather than deriving from the subdivision of a larger Ilford area.

Manor of Barking[edit]

Barking was a huge Manor (landholding), first mentioned in a charter in 735 AD. The Manor covered the areas now known asBarking,Dagenhamand Ilford. The Manor was held by the Nunnery ofBarking Abbey.

Ancient Parish of Barking[edit]

By the late 1100s (the Parishes of England were, with a few exceptions, fixed for around 700 years from the late 12th century onwards)[5]the huge Manor of Barking was served by twoAncient Parishes,Barking (including Ilford) and Dagenham. This reversed the usual situation (for smaller, and even quite large Manors) where a parish would serve one or more manors. As with other manors, the area held by the declined over time, but the parish boundaries based on its former extent remained constant.

A map showing the wards of Barking Parish in 1871. The Ancient Parish covered both Barking and Ilford.

The Parish of Barking, in theBecontreehundred ofEssex,covered the areas now known as Barking and Ilford. Barking was a large ancient parish of 12,307 acres (49.80 km2) in the Becontree hundred of Essex. It was divided into the wards of Chadwell, Great Ilford, Ripple and Town.

Ilford separates from Barking[edit]

The Barking parish authorities gradually lost responsibility for a variety of functions during the 19th century; from 1836, for the administration of poor relief, Ilford came within the RomfordPoor Law Unionand in 1840 theMetropolitan Police Districtwas extended to cover the area. In 1875, the Romfordrural sanitary districtwas created, covering a wide area including Ilford.

In 1888, Ilford and the neighbouring ward of Chadwell to east were split from Barking and together formed a separate Ilford civil parish and also a new Urban District Council. In 1890, alocal board of healthwas set up for the parish, replacing the rural sanitary authority, and in 1894 a reform of local government reconstituted it as an urban district. It formed part of theLondon Traffic Areafrom 1924 and theLondon Passenger Transport Areafrom 1933.[6]It was incorporated as theMunicipal Borough of Ilfordin 1926.[7]

The suburban expansion of London caused a significant increase in population and the borough became one of the largest in England not to gaincounty boroughstatus.

London Borough of Redbridge[edit]

In 1965, the municipal borough was abolished and its former area was combined with that ofWanstead and Woodford,the northern extremity ofDagenhamand a small partChigwell Urban District(around Hainault), to form the newLondon Borough of Redbridge.

Representation[edit]

Ilford is divided between the UK Parliament constituencies ofIlford NorthandIlford South.Ilford North consists of the Redbridge wards of Aldborough, Barkingside, Redbridge, Clayhall, Fairlop, Fullwell, Hainault and Roding. TheMember of Parliament(MP) isWes Streetingof the Labour Party, who succeeded the previous MPLee Scottof the Conservative Party in the2015 general election.Ilford South corresponds to the Redbridge wards of Chadwell, Clementswood, Cranbrook, Goodmayes, Loxford, Mayfield, Newbury, Seven Kings, and Valentines. The MP isSam Tarryof the Labour Party. Ilford forms part of theHavering and Redbridge London Assembly constituency.

History[edit]

Prehistoric natural history[edit]

The only complete skull of amammothdiscovered in the United Kingdom was unearthed in 1864 close to where Uphall Road is today. The skull can now be seen in theNatural History Museumand a cast of the skull and other prehistoric animal remains can be seen at Redbridge Museum, Central Library, Ilford.

Iron Age[edit]

Redevelopment has destroyed much of the evidence for early Ilford, but the oldest evidence for human occupation is the first- and second-century BCIron Ageearthwork known as Uphall Camp. This was situated between the Roding and Ilford Lane and is recorded in 18th-century plans.[2]Romanfinds have also been made in the vicinity.[8]

Lavender Mount[edit]

A nearby mound called Lavender Mount existed into the 1960s, when it was removed during building work at Howards chemical works. Excavation has shown that Lavender Mount may have been a 16th-century 'beacon-mound'. Archaeological discoveries are displayed at Redbridge Museum.[9]

Economic development[edit]

High Road Ilford with Waterstones bookshop in the foreground on the left and the town hall in the background
Redbridge Town Hall, High Road, Ilford

Ilford straddled the important road from London toColchester.The Middlesex and EssexTurnpike Trustcontrolled and maintained the road from 1721. TheRiver Rodingwas made navigable for barges as far as Ilford Bridge from 1737.[8]Ilford remained largely rural until its expansion in the 19th century. This brought about brickworks, cement works and coal yards to service the new buildings, largely centred on the River Roding. In 1839, a railway station was opened on theline from Romford to Mile End.The early businesses gave way to new industries, such as paper making and services such as steam laundries and collar making, to provide for the new commuting class created by the railway.

A number of major businesses have been founded in the town, including the eponymousphotographic filmand chemicals manufacturerIlford Photo.[10]This was founded in 1879 by Alfred H. Harman, a photographer fromPeckham,who established the business in a house in Cranbrook Road making gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates.[2]The business soon outgrew these premises, and its headquarters moved to a site at Roden Street until 1976 when the factory was closed. Many Ilford Limited products are displayed at Redbridge Museum.[9]

The radio, electronics and telecommunications companyPlessey,founded in 1917 inMarylebone,moved to Cottenham Road in Ilford early in 1919 and then to Vicarage Lane where it became one of the largest manufacturers in its field. DuringWorld War II,the factory was heavily damaged by bombing and the company carried out much of its manufacture, with 2,000 workers servicing a production line, located in the underground railway tunnel betweenWansteadandGants Hill.[2]In 1955 the company employed 15,000 workers, in sites throughout Ilford and neighbouring areas, with an extensive research department.[2]BAL-AMi Jukeboxeswere manufactured at 290–296 High Road, Ilford, during the 1950s, which also served as the headquarters of the Balfour (Marine) Engineering company.[11]The Exchangeis the main shopping centre.

Central Library and Museum, Clements Road, Ilford

Suburban expansion[edit]

High buildings in central Ilford

By 1653, Ilford was a compact village of 50 houses, mostly sited north and south of the current Broadway[2]and the area was distinctly rural. In 1801 the population of Ilford was 1,724 and by 1841 it had grown to 3,742.[2]It had a population of 41,244 in 1901 and occupied an area of 8,496 acres (34 km2). 2,500 houses of the vastBecontree Estate,built by theLondon County Councilfrom 1921, were within the boundaries of Ilford; the addition caused a rise in population of 11,600 by 1926.[2]

TheCentral lineservice of theLondon Undergroundto new and former main-line stations in the area began in 1947[12]and the population of the Municipal Borough of Ilford peaked in 1951 at 184,706, declining to 178,024 in 1961 before being absorbed into Redbridge and Greater London in 1965. At the2001 Censusthe combined populations of theIlford NorthandIlford Southconstituencies was 196,414.[13][14]

Notable events[edit]

John Logie Baird,who invented thetelevision,moved to Ilford in the mid to late 1920s to work on his new invention. He worked in a workshop on the roof of thePlesseypremises in Ley Street, which has long since been demolished to make way for new housing.

In 1922, Ilford became notorious for being the site of theThompson-Bywaters case,acause celebrein the United Kingdom that later influenced the debate aroundcapital punishment in the UK.

Ilford was also the birthplace of the actorMaggie Smithwho left forOxfordat the age of four.

During World War II an Ilford man lost his life when hisRoyal Air Forcetraining aircraft crashed in the United States. Local residents living near the site, in theState of Oklahoma,erected a monument in 2000 honouring the lives of all four RAF fliers who perished. The event was attended by the Mayor of Redbridge and his mace-bearer, to much local acclaim. The residents, who includeChoctaw Indiansand theChoctaw Nationgovernment, continue honouring the lives of all four on each anniversary of the crashes, which took place in February 1943.[15]

Olympics[edit]

Its proximity to theOlympic ParkinStratfordmeant that in 2011, Ilford was the fastest-growing tourist destination in Europe due to theLondon 2012 Summer Olympics.[16]

Economy[edit]

In 2005, Ilford was ranked sixth in the Retail Footprint ranking for Greater London, behind London'sWest End,Croydon,Kingston upon Thames,BromleyandBrent Cross Shopping Centre.It ranked just above Romford and central London'sKensington.[17]As of 2020, Ilford has 145,860 square metres (1,570,000 sq ft) of total town centre floorspace, the tenth highest in Greater London and noticeably lower compared toStratfordand Romford.[18]

Geography[edit]

Further information:Geography of London

The town is bounded in the west by theNorth Circular Road,Manor Parkand theRiver Roding,withChadwell HeathandRomfordto the east andBarkingto the South. TheAlders Brookis a tributary of the Roding that marks the boundary between Newham and Redbridge. Climate data for Ilford is taken from the nearest weather station atGreenwich,around 6 miles (9.7 km) south south west of the railway station:

Climate data forGreenwich Park,elevation: 47 m (154 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1948–2004
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 16.8
(62.2) 		19.7
(67.5) 		23.3
(73.9) 		25.3
(77.5) 		29.0
(84.2) 		34.5
(94.1) 		35.3
(95.5) 		37.5
(99.5) 		30.2
(86.4) 		26.1
(79.0) 		18.9
(66.0) 		16.4
(61.5) 		37.5
(99.5)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 8.5
(47.3) 		9.2
(48.6) 		12.1
(53.8) 		15.4
(59.7) 		18.6
(65.5) 		21.4
(70.5) 		23.8
(74.8) 		23.3
(73.9) 		20.3
(68.5) 		15.8
(60.4) 		11.6
(52.9) 		8.9
(48.0) 		15.8
(60.4)
Daily mean °C (°F) 5.9
(42.6) 		6.2
(43.2) 		8.4
(47.1) 		10.7
(51.3) 		13.8
(56.8) 		16.7
(62.1) 		18.8
(65.8) 		18.7
(65.7) 		15.9
(60.6) 		12.4
(54.3) 		8.8
(47.8) 		6.3
(43.3) 		11.9
(53.4)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 3.4
(38.1) 		3.2
(37.8) 		4.7
(40.5) 		6.0
(42.8) 		9.1
(48.4) 		12.0
(53.6) 		13.9
(57.0) 		14.1
(57.4) 		11.6
(52.9) 		9.0
(48.2) 		6.1
(43.0) 		3.8
(38.8) 		8.1
(46.6)
Record low °C (°F) −12.7
(9.1) 		−9.4
(15.1) 		−6.7
(19.9) 		−4.8
(23.4) 		−1.0
(30.2) 		1.1
(34.0) 		5.0
(41.0) 		5.3
(41.5) 		1.1
(34.0) 		−2.1
(28.2) 		−8.0
(17.6) 		−10.5
(13.1) 		−12.7
(9.1)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 43.9
(1.73) 		39.9
(1.57) 		36.5
(1.44) 		38.6
(1.52) 		44.0
(1.73) 		49.3
(1.94) 		36.3
(1.43) 		53.0
(2.09) 		52.4
(2.06) 		58.3
(2.30) 		59.9
(2.36) 		50.7
(2.00) 		562.9
(22.16)
Average precipitation days(≥ 1.0 mm) 10.5 9.2 7.9 8.1 7.9 7.8 7.1 8.2 7.9 10.3 10.6 10.2 105.6
Mean monthlysunshine hours 44.4 66.1 109.7 152.9 198.7 198.6 209.2 198.0 140.6 99.7 58.5 50.1 1,526.4
Source 1:Met Office[19][20][21]
Source 2: Starlings Roost Weather[22][23]

Demography[edit]

Historic population statistics[edit]

Ilford (parish) population
1891 10,913
1901 41,234
1911 78,188
1921 85,194
1931 131,061
1941 #
1951 184,706
1961 178,024
# no census was held due to war
source:UK census[24]

Population[edit]

The entire town of Ilford is also made up of its neighbourhoodsAldborough Hatch,Barkingside,Clayhall,Cranbrook,Fairlop,Fullwell Cross,Loxford,Gants Hill,Goodmayes,Newbury Park,RedbridgeandSeven Kings.It approximates to 11electoral wards,and the total population counted 168,168 people in the 2011 census, compared to 303,858 for the borough of Redbridge as a whole.[25]

Ethnicity[edit]

Ilford has a very large ethnic-minority population, one of the most diverse towns in the country.[26]

Ilford North had the fourth-highest Jewish proportion of residents in the 2001 census.[13]The Hindu, Muslim and Sikh population number some 30,000.[27]The large South Asian community in Ilford speak a variety of languages, includingBengali,Gujarati,Hindi,Punjabi,Tamil,TeluguandUrdu.[28]

According to the 2001 census, theparliamentary constituenciesof Ilford North and Ilford South consisted of the following demographs:

Ilford North Ilford South
Total Population 89,806 106,608
White 60.6% 40.1%
Black 20.2% 29.4%
Asian 15.5% 30.3%
Mixed 2.2% 2.8%
Other 1.5% 0.4%
Ilford North Ilford South
Christian 55.1% 42.5%
Hindu 6.7% 10.5%
Jewish 10.3% 7.9%
Muslim 6.4% 19.6%
Sikh 2.7% 9.4%

[13][14]

At the 2011 census, the Clementswood ward's population with aBAME(Black, Asian and minority ethnic) background was 84.2%, one of the highest in Greater London. Most of Ilford's other wards have figures above 70%. The lowest BAME ward in Ilford was Fairlop, 34.9%.[29]

Housing[edit]

House prices in Ilford are generally far lower than the average for Greater London. The median house price in 2014 in Ilford's Loxford ward was £193,000, which was the sixth lowest out of the 628 wards of Greater London.[29]

In most wards, a majority of houses are owned by the households. The exceptions are in Clementswood, Loxford, and Valentines.[29]

The table below shows housing type data for Ilford's wards at the 2011 census (but altered to match new ward boundaries in 2015).

2011 Census homes %
Ward Detached Semi-detached Terraced Flats and apartments[30][31]
Aldborough 4.9% 25.1% 43.5% 26.6%
Barkingside 4.2% 31.5% 40.2% 24.1%
Clayhall 7.2% 48.7% 30.4% 13.6%
Clementswood 7.7% 12.4% 45.0% 34.9%
Cranbrook 3.5% 27.8% 39.7% 28.9%
Fairlop 7.4% 28.8% 37.7% 26.2%
Fullwell 7.6% 43.7% 21.9% 26.8%
Goodmayes 6.3% 22.1% 42.2% 29.3%
Loxford 2.9% 12.2% 42.8% 36.0%
Mayfield 10.8% 26.6% 47.3% 15.3%
Newbury 4.5% 17.8% 48.2% 29.3%
Seven Kings 6.1% 20.4% 42.9% 30.5%
Valentines 4.7% 13.1% 31.6% 50.5%

Other[edit]

The male life expectancy was 76.4 years in Loxford, and 84.5 years in Barkingside. The female expectancy was highest in Barkingside, 87.5 years, and lowest in Loxford, 81.7 years.[29]

Transport[edit]

Rail and tube[edit]

Ilford railway station

Ilford station is inLondon Travelcard Zone 4.[32]

Ilford railway stationis on theGreat Eastern Main Line.It is served byElizabeth linetrains which also call at the nearbySeven KingsandGoodmayesstations.[33]

The station was the scene of two fatal rail crashes in1915and1944.Atraction maintenance depotforelectric multiple unitsis situated in Ilford, which maintains manyGreater AngliaandLondon Overgroundtrains.

London Underground'sCentral lineis to the north of Ilford, withRedbridge,Gants Hill,Newbury Park,BarkingsideandFairlopnearby. The stations are on theHainault loopbranch of the Central line, with direct connections to Stratford,the City,the West End and West London.[32]

Buses[edit]

EL1 London Routemaster at a bus stop in Ilford
ANew Routemasteron an EL1 service in Ilford

London Buseslink Ilford to other districts ineastandcentral London.

Routes include25(toCity Thameslink), 86, 123, 128, 147, 139, 145, 150, 169, 366, 425,SL2and W19. Night buses N25 and N86 additionally serve the town overnight.[34][35][36]

East London Transitroute EL1 begins in Ilford; it links up with routes EL2 and EL3 atBarking,with onward connections toChadwell Heath,BecontreeandDagenham.[36]

Road[edit]

Ilford is aprimary route destinationin east London, and main roads link the town to key destinations throughout the capital and theEast of England.[37]

TheA118runs east-west through Ilford, linking the town withStratfordandthe A11westbound, andRomfordeastbound. TheA123runs north-south through the town, with direct connections toGants HillandChigwellnorthbound, andBarkingsouthbound.

TheA406 North Circular Roadlinks the town directly with north and west London destinations, such asWood GreenandBrent Cross.It carries traffic northbound tothe M11forStansted AirportandCambridge.Southbound, the route runs toBeckton,theWoolwich Ferry,and theA13forIsle of Dogs,DagenhamandTilbury.

North of Ilford, theA12links the town directly tothe M25,ChelmsfordandIpswich.Southbound traffic runs past Stratford, through theBlackwall Tunneland onto theA2forDartfordand destinations inKent.

Cycle[edit]

There is an intermittent cycle lane between Stratford, Ilford, Romford andHarold Woodalong theA118.The lane is part of the formerLondon Cycle Network,as signposted route number 12.

At Stratford,Cycle Superhighway 2begins and runs throughMile EndandWhitechapelto the City. The route is mostly segregated from other road traffic.[38]

Cycleway 16 passes to the north of Ilford, providing a direct cycle connection between theQueen Elizabeth Olympic Parkat Stratford andBarkingside.

The Roding Valley Way is a shared-use route running alongside theRiver Roding.It begins in Ilford and runs unbroken toRoding Valley tube stationnearBuckhurst Hill,Essex.[39]

Landmarks[edit]

Pioneer Point

Valentines Mansionwas built in 1696 and was used as council offices until 1994. It gives its name toValentines Park,the largest green space in the borough.

Pioneer Pointconsists of two buildings: Pioneer Point North is 105 m tall with 33 floors and Pioneer Point South is 82 m tall with 25 floors.

Raphael House is 99m tall and Lynton House is 93m tall; they were completed in 1969.

Religious buildings[edit]

St Mary's Churchis the original parish church, but for much of the 20th centurySt Clement's Churchwas the main Anglican church until it was demolished in 1977.St Alban's Churchis a redbrick Neo-Gothic building on Albert Road.Ilford Hospital Chapelis the oldest building in Redbridge, dating back to c1140.St Luke's Churchis occupied by theMar Thoma Syrian Church.

There are also a number of Muslim, Hindu and Sikh buildings.

Education[edit]

Loxford SchoolinLoxfordhas over 3000 students from 11 to 18,Seven Kings Schoolis half that size.The Palmer Catholic Academyis a Catholic secondary school andUrsuline Academy Ilfordis a Catholic school for girls.Cranbrook Schoolwas an independent school that closed in 2016.Uphall Primary Schoolis in Loxford near the North Circular.

Culture[edit]

Ilford Kenneth More Theatre

Art, theatre and media[edit]

The local newspaper, covering the town and the borough, is theIlford Recorder.

The poetsKathleen Raine(1908–2003) andDenise Levertov(1923–1997) were both born and spent their early years in Ilford.[40]Levertov's Russian father, born a Hassidic Jew but converted to Christianity as a student, settled in Ilford as an Anglican minister.[41]There is a tablet memorialising Levertov's father in Ilford'sHospital Chapel.[42]Whilst Levertov wrote lyrically about Ilford, and in particular Valentines Park, in later life,[43]Raine described it as a "suburban Hades".[44]

The Kenneth More Theatre was officially opened in January 1975. It places emphasis on serving the local community, and stages a mix of professional and amateur productions. Its programme is varied, and runs throughout the year with productions generally changing on a weekly basis. It is well known within the local area for its annual pantomime, which normally runs from mid-December to mid-January.[45]

St. Alban's Singers is a mixed voice choir for men and women based in St. Alban's Church in Albert Road, Ilford. The choir meets to rehearse at the church each Tuesday evening during term-time and aims to give three concerts per year.[46]

Kathy Kirbywas born in Ilford.

Sport[edit]

An unspecified venue in Ilford was used for acricketmatch in August 1737 betweenEssexandLondon.It is the earliest known organised match definitely played in Essex.[47]

Ilford Cricket Club plays home games atValentines Park.This ground was opened in 1897.[48]It was used regularly byEssex County Cricket Club,but inadequate maintenance meant that the county stopped playing there after 2001.[49]

TwoNon-League footballclubs play at the Cricklefield Stadium,Ilford F.C.of the Essex Senior League andBarkingside F.C.of the Eastern Counties League Division One South.Waltham Forest F.C.(nowWalthamstow F.C.) played at the Cricklefield from 2008 to 2013.

South Parkis one of the largest open spaces in the London Borough of Redbridge and has been awardedGreen Flagstatus.[50]TheRedbridge Parks Policepatrolled the parks until they were disbanded in 2011.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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  2. ^abcdefghPowell, W.R., ed. (1966). "The borough of Ilford".A History of the County of Essex.Vol. 5.Victoria County History.pp. 249–266.Retrieved28 August2009– viaBritish History Online.
  3. ^abMills, A.D. (2001).Dictionary of London Place Names.Oxford.
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Bibliography[edit]

External links[edit]

  • Media related toIlfordat Wikimedia Commons
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