Islay
Scottish Gaelicname | Ìle |
---|---|
Pronunciation | [ˈiːlə] |
Scotsname | Ila[1] |
Old Norsename | Íl[2] |
Meaning of name | Unknown |
![]() Port Ellen | |
Location | |
OS grid reference | NR370598 |
Coordinates | 55°46′N6°09′W/ 55.77°N 6.15°W |
Physical geography | |
Island group | Islay |
Area | 61,956 ha (239+1⁄4sq mi)[3] |
Area rank | 5 [5] |
Highest elevation | Beinn Bheigeir,491 m (1,611 ft)[4] |
Administration | |
Council area | Argyll and Bute |
Country | Scotland |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Demographics | |
Population | 3,228[6] |
Population rank | 7[6] [5] |
Population density | 5.2/km2(13/sq mi)[3][6] |
Largest settlement | Port Ellen[7] |
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Islay(/ˈaɪlə/EYE-lə;Scottish Gaelic:Ìle,Scots:Ila) is the southernmost island of theInner Hebridesof Scotland. Known as "The Queen of theHebrides",[8]it lies inArgyll and Butejust south west ofJuraand around 40 kilometres (22 nautical miles) north of the Northern Irish coast. The island's capital isBowmorewhere the distinctive roundKilarrow Parish Churchand a distillery are located.[9]Port Ellenis the main port.[10]
Islay is the fifth-largest Scottish island and the eighth-largestisland of the British Isles,with a total area of almost 620 square kilometres (240 sq mi).[Note 1]There is ample evidence of the prehistoric settlement of Islay and the first written reference may have come in the first century AD. The island had become part of the Gaelic Kingdom ofDál Riataduring theEarly Middle Agesbefore being absorbed into the NorseKingdom of the Isles.
The latermedievalperiod marked a "cultural high point" with the transfer of theHebridesto theKingdom of Scotlandand the emergence of theClan DonaldLordship of the Isles,originally centred atFinlaggan.[13]During the 17th century the power of Clan Donald waned, but improvements to agriculture and transport led to a rising population, which peaked in the mid-19th century.[3]This was followed by substantialforced displacementsand declining resident numbers.
Today, Islay has over 3,000 inhabitants, and the main commercial activities are agriculture,malt whisky distillationand tourism. The island has a long history of religious observance, andScottish Gaelicis spoken by about a quarter of the population.[14]Its landscapes have been celebrated through various art forms, and there is a growing interest inrenewable energyin the form ofwave power.Islay is home to many bird species such as the wintering populations ofGreenland white-frontedandbarnacle goose,and is a popular destination throughout the year for birdwatchers. The climate is mild and ameliorated by theGulf Stream.
Name
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/78/Port_Charlotte.jpg/220px-Port_Charlotte.jpg)
Islay was probably recorded byPtolemyasEpidion,[16]the use of the "p" suggesting aBrittonicorPictishtribal name.[17]In the 7th centuryAdomnánreferred to the island asIlea,[18]and the name occurs in early Irish records asIleand asÍlinOld Norse.The root is not Gaelic and is of unknown origin.[2][Note 2]
In 17th-century maps, the spelling appears as "Yla" or "Ila", a form still used in the name of the whiskyCaol Ila.[20][21]In poetic language, Islay is known asBanrìgh Innse Gall,[8]orBanrìgh nan Eilean[22]usually translated as "Queen of the Hebrides"[Note 3]andEilean uaine Ìle– the "green isle of Islay"[19]A native of Islay is called anÌleach,pronounced[ˈiːləx].[19]
The obliteration of pre-Norse names is almost total, and placenames on the island are a mixture of Norse and later Gaelic and English influences.[23][24]
Port Askaig is from the Norseask-vík,meaning "ash tree bay" and the common suffix-busis from the Norsebólstaðr,meaning "farm".[25]
Gaelic names, or their anglicised versions such as Ardnave Point, fromÀird an Naoimh"height of the saint",are very common.[26]
Several of the villages were developed in the 18th or 19th centuries, and English is a stronger influence in their names as a result. Port Charlotte for example, was named afterLady Charlotte Campbell,daughter of 5th Duke of Argyll and wife of the island's then-owner, ColonelJohn Campbell(1770–1809) of Shawfield and Islay.[27]
Geography
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/50/Islay_topographic_map-en.svg/220px-Islay_topographic_map-en.svg.png)
Islay is 40 kilometres (25 mi) long from north to south and 24 kilometres (15 mi) broad. The east coast is rugged and mountainous, rising steeply from theSound of Islay,the highest peak beingBeinn Bheigier,which is aMarilynat 1,612 feet (491 m). The western peninsulas are separated from the main bulk of the island by the waters ofLoch Indaalto the south andLoch Gruinartto the north.[28]The fertile and windswept southwestern arm is calledThe Rinns,andArdnave Pointis a conspicuous promontory on the northwest coast. The south coast is sheltered from the prevailing winds and, as a result, relatively wooded.[29][30][31]Thefractalcoast has numerous bays and sea lochs, includingLoch an t-Sailein,Aros BayandClaggain Bay.[29]In the far southwest is a rocky and now largely uninhabited peninsula calledThe Oa,the closest point in the Hebrides to Ireland.[32]
The island's population is concentrated mainly in and around the villages ofBowmoreandPort Ellen.Other smaller villages includeBridgend,Ballygrant,Port Charlotte,PortnahavenandPort Askaig.The rest of the island is sparsely populated and mainly agricultural.[33]There are several small freshwaterlochsin the interior includingLoch Finlaggan,Loch Ballygrant, Loch Lossit and Loch Gorm, and numerousburnsthroughout the island, many of which bear the name "river" despite their small size. The most significant of these are theRiver Lagganwhich discharges into the sea at the north end of Laggan Bay, and theRiver Sornwhich, draining Loch Finlaggan, enters the head of Loch Indaal at Bridgend.[29]
There are numerous small uninhabited islands around the coasts, the largest of which areEilean Mhic CoinnichandOrsayoff the Rinns,Nave Islandon the northwest coast,Am Fraoch Eileanin the Sound of Islay, andTexaoff the south coast.[29]
Geology and geomorphology
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bb/Islay_Geology.png/220px-Islay_Geology.png)
The underlying geology of Islay is intricate for such a small area.[3]The deformedPalaeoproterozoicigneous rockof theRhinns complexis dominated by a coarse-grainedgneisscut by large intrusions of deformedgabbro.Once thought to be part of theLewisian complex,it lies beneath theColonsay Groupofmetasedimentary rocks[34][35]that forms the bedrock at the northern end of the Rinns. It is aquartz-richmetamorphicmarine sandstone that may be unique to Scotland and which is nearly 5,000 m (16,400 ft) thick.[36]South of Rubh' a' Mhail there are outcrops ofquartzite,and a strip ofmica schistandlimestonecuts across the centre of the island from The Oa to Port Askaig. Further south is a band of metamorphic quartzite and granites, a continuation of the beds that underlie Jura. Thegeomorphologyof these last two zones is dominated by afoldknown as the Islay Anticline. To the south is a "shattered coastline" formed from mica schist andhornblende.[3][37][38]The olderBowmore Group sandstonesin the west centre of the island are rich infeldsparand may be ofDalradianorigin.[39][Note 4]
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1c/Rocks_near_Claddach_bay_-_geograph.org.uk_-_565909.jpg/220px-Rocks_near_Claddach_bay_-_geograph.org.uk_-_565909.jpg)
Loch Indaal was formed along a branch of theGreat Glen Faultcalled the Loch Gruinart Fault; its main line passes just to the north ofColonsay.This separates the limestone, igneous intrusions and Bowmore sandstones from the Colonsay Group rocks of the Rhinns.[40]The result is occasional minor earth tremors.[41]
There is atillitebed near Port Askaig that provides evidence of anice agein thePrecambrian.[38][42]In comparatively recent times the island was ice-covered during thePleistoceneglaciations save for Beinn Tart a' Mhill on the Rinns, which was anunatakon the edge of the ice sheet.[43]The complex changes of sea level due to melting ice caps andisostasysince then have left a series of raised beaches around the coast.[33]Throughout much of late prehistory the low-lying land between the Rinns and the rest of the island was flooded, creating two islands.[44]
Climate
[edit]The influence of theGulf Streamkeeps the climate mild compared to mainland Scotland. Snow is rarely seen at sea level and frosts are light and short-lived.[45]However, wind speeds average 19 to 28 kilometres per hour (10 to 15 knots) annually[46]and winter gales sweep in off theAtlantic,gusting up to 185 km/h (115 mph).[47]This can make travelling and living on the island during the winter difficult,[48]while ferry and air links to the mainland can suffer delays. The driest months are April to July and the warmest are May to September, which as a result are the busiest times for tourism.[49][50]Sunshine hours are typically highest around the coasts, especially to the west.[45]
Climate data for Islay: Port Ellen climate station (17m elevation) 1981–2010 averages | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 7.8 (46.0) |
7.6 (45.7) |
9.1 (48.4) |
11.0 (51.8) |
13.9 (57.0) |
15.8 (60.4) |
17.1 (62.8) |
17.1 (62.8) |
15.6 (60.1) |
12.9 (55.2) |
10.0 (50.0) |
8.2 (46.8) |
12.2 (54.0) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 2.6 (36.7) |
2.2 (36.0) |
3.1 (37.6) |
4.2 (39.6) |
6.4 (43.5) |
8.9 (48.0) |
10.9 (51.6) |
11.0 (51.8) |
9.6 (49.3) |
7.5 (45.5) |
4.9 (40.8) |
3.0 (37.4) |
6.2 (43.2) |
Average rainfall mm (inches) | 138.2 (5.44) |
98.2 (3.87) |
118.8 (4.68) |
77.9 (3.07) |
62.4 (2.46) |
73.3 (2.89) |
78.8 (3.10) |
106.7 (4.20) |
114.6 (4.51) |
148.7 (5.85) |
132.3 (5.21) |
132.9 (5.23) |
1,282.7 (50.50) |
Average rainy days(≥ 1.0 mm) | 19.9 | 14.8 | 17.8 | 13.3 | 11.6 | 11.4 | 13.8 | 15.4 | 15.5 | 19.7 | 19.3 | 18.6 | 191.1 |
Source: metoffice.gov.uk[51] |
Prehistory
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/Dun_Nosebridge.jpg/300px-Dun_Nosebridge.jpg)
The earliest settlers on Islay were nomadichunter-gathererswho may have first arrived during theMesolithic periodafter the retreat of thePleistoceneice caps. A flintarrowhead,which was found in a field nearBridgendin 1993 and dates from 10,800 BC, is amongst the earliest evidence of a human presence found so far in Scotland.[52][Note 5]Stone implements of theAhrensburgian culturefound at Rubha Port an t-Seilich near Port Askaig by foraging pigs in 2015 probably came from a summer camp used by hunters travelling round the coast in boats.[55][56]Mesolithicfinds have been dated to 7000 BC usingradiocarbon datingof shells and debris fromkitchen middens.[57][58]By theNeolithic,settlements had become more permanent,[59]allowing for the construction of several communal monuments.[60]
The most spectacular prehistoric structure on the island isDun Nosebridge.This 375-square-metre (4,040 sq ft)Iron Agefort occupies a prominent crag and has commanding views of the surrounding landscape. The name's origin is probably a mixture of Gaelic and Old Norse:Dunin the former language means "fort" andknaus-borgin the latter means "fort on the crag".[61]There is no evidence that Islay was ever subject toRomanmilitary control although small numbers of finds such as a coin and a brooch from the third century AD suggest links of some kind with the intermittentRoman presenceon the mainland.[62]The ruins of abrochat Dùn Bhoraraic south east of Ballygrant and the remains of numerousAtlantic roundhousesindicate the influences of northern Scotland, where these forms of building originate.[63][64]There are also variouscrannogson Islay, including sites in Loch Ardnave, Loch Ballygrant and Loch Allallaidh in the south east where a stone causeway leading out to two adjacent islands is visible beneath the surface of the water.[29][63]
History
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Port_nan_Gallan%2C_on_the_Mull_of_Oa%2C_Isle_of_Islay_-_geograph.org.uk_-_92883.jpg/220px-Port_nan_Gallan%2C_on_the_Mull_of_Oa%2C_Isle_of_Islay_-_geograph.org.uk_-_92883.jpg)
Dál Riata
[edit]By the sixth century AD Islay, along with much of the nearby mainland and adjacent islands, lay within theGaelickingdom ofDál Riatawith strong links to Ireland. The widely accepted opinion is that Dál Riata was established by Gaelic migrants from Ulster, displacing a nativeBrythonicculture (such as thePicts), but some scholars claim that the Gaels in this part of Scotland wereindigenousto the area.[65]Dál Riata was divided into a small number of regions, each controlled by a particular kin group; according to theSenchus fer n-Alban( "The History of the Men of Scotland" ), it was theCenél nÓengusafor Islay and Jura.
In 627, the son of a king of the IrishUí Chóelbad,a branch of theDál nAraidikingdom of Ulster (not to be confused with Dál Riata), was killed on Islay at the unidentified location of Ard-Corann by a warrior in an army led by KingConnad Cerrof theCorcu Réti(the collective term for theCenél nGabráinandCenél Comgaill,before they split), based atDunadd.[66]TheSenchusalso lists what is believed to be the oldest reference to a naval battle in theBritish Isles—a brief record of an engagement between rival Dál Riatan groups in 719.[67]
There is evidence of another kin group on Islay – the Cenél Conchride, supposedly descended from a brother of the legendary founder of Dál Riata, kingFergus Mór,but the existence of the Cenél Conchride seems to have been brief and the 430 households of the island are later said to have been comprised from the families of just three great-grandsons of the eponymous founder of Cenél nÓengus: Lugaid, Connal and Galán.[66]
Norse influence and the Kingdom of the Isles
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f2/Standing_Stone_below_Druim_an_Stuim_-_geograph.org.uk_-_1419965.jpg/220px-Standing_Stone_below_Druim_an_Stuim_-_geograph.org.uk_-_1419965.jpg)
The ninth-century arrival of Scandinavian settlers on the western seaboard of the mainland had a long-lasting effect, beginning with the destruction of Dál Riata. As is the case in theNorthern Isles,the derivation of place names suggests a complete break from the past. Jennings and Kruse conclude that although there were settlements prior to the Norse arrival "there is no evidence from theonomasticonthat the inhabitants of these settlements ever existed".[69]Gaelic continued to exist as a spoken language in the southern Hebrides throughout the Norse period, but theplace name evidencesuggests it had a lowly status, possibly indicating an enslaved population.[70]
Consolidating their gains, theNorsesettlers established theKingdom of the Isles,which becamepart of the crown of Norwayfollowing Norwegian unification. To Norway, the islands became known asSuðreyjar(Old Norse, traditionally anglicised asSodor,orSudreys), meaningsouthern isles.For the next four centuries and more this Kingdom was under the control of rulers of mostly Norse origin.
Godred Crovanwas one of the most significant of therulersof thissea kingdom.Though his origins are obscure, it is known that Godred was aNorse-Gael,with a connection to Islay. TheChronicles of Manncall Godred the son of Harald the Black of Ysland, (his place or origin variously interpreted as Islay, Ireland orIceland) and state he "so tamed the Scots that no one who built a ship or boat dared use more than three iron bolts".[71][72]
Godred also becameKing of Dublinat an unknown date, although in 1094 he was driven out of the city byMuircheartach Ua Briain,later known asHigh King of Ireland,according to theAnnals of the Four Masters.He died on Islay "of pestilence",during the following year.[71][73][74]A local tradition suggests that astanding stoneat Carragh Bhan near Kintra marks Godred Crovan's grave.[68][75]A genuine 11th-century Norse grave-slab was found at Dóid Mhàiri in 1838, although it was not associated with a burial. The slab is decorated with foliage in the style ofRingerikeViking art and an Irish-style cross, the former being unique inScandinavian Scotland.[68]
Following Godred's death, the local population resisted Norway's choice of replacement, causingMagnus, the Norwegian king,to launch a military campaign to assert his authority. In 1098, under pressure from Magnus,the king of Scotlandquitclaimedto Magnus all sovereign authority over the isles.
Somerled
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5d/ClaigCastle1.jpg/220px-ClaigCastle1.jpg)
In the mid 12th century, a granddaughter of Godred Crovan's married the ambitiousSomerled,aNorse-GaelicArgyle nobleman.Godred Olafsson,grandson of Godred Crovan, was an increasingly unpopular King of the Isles at the time, spurring Somerled into action. The two fought theBattle of Epiphanyin the seas off Islay in January 1156.[Note 6]The result was a bloodystalemate,and the island kingdom was temporarily divided, with Somerled taking control of the southern Hebrides. Two years later Somerled completely ousted Godred Olafsson and re-united the kingdom.
Somerled built the sea fortress ofClaig Castleon an island between Islay and Jura, to establish control of theSound of Islay.On account of theCorryvreckanwhirlpool to the north of Jura, the Sound was the main safe sea route between the mainland and the rest of the Hebrides; Claig Castle essentially gave Somerled control of sea traffic. Following Somerled's 1164 death, the realm was divided between Godred's heirs, and Somerled's sons,[76][77][78]whose descendantscontinued to describe themselves asKing of the Sudreysuntil the 13th century. Somerled's grandson,Donaldreceived Islay, along with Claig Castle, and the adjacent part of Jura as far north asLoch Tarbert.
Nominal Norwegian authority had been re-established after Somerled's death, but by the mid 13th century, increased tension between Norway and Scotland led to a series of battles, culminating in theBattle of Largs,shortly after whichthe Norwegian kingdied. In 1266, his more peaceable successor ceded his nominal authority over Suðreyjar to the Scottish king (Alexander III) by theTreaty of Perth,in return for a very large sum of money.[79][80]Alexander generally acknowledged the semi-independent authority of Somerled's heirs; the former Suðreyjar had become a Scottish crown dependency, rather than part of Scotland.
Scottish rule
[edit]Lords of the Isles
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e8/Amie_mac_Ruari.jpg/350px-Amie_mac_Ruari.jpg)
By this point, Somerled's descendants had formed into three families – the heirs of Donald (theMacDonalds,led byAonghas Óg MacDonald), those ofDonald's brother(theMacruari,led by Ruaidhri mac Ailein), and those ofDonald's uncle(theMacDougalls,led byAlexander MacDougall). At the end of the 13th century, when kingJohn Balliolwas challenged for the throne byRobert the Bruce,the MacDougalls backed Balliol, while the Macruari and MacDonalds backed Robert. When Robert won, he declared the MacDougall lands forfeit, and distributed them between the MacDonalds and Macruari (the latter already owning much ofLorne,Uist,parts ofLochaber,andGarmoran).[81]
The Macruari territories were eventually inherited byAmy of Garmoran.,[82][83][84]who married her MacDonald cousinJohn of Islayin the 1330s;[85]having succeeded Aonghus Óg as head of the MacDonalds, he now controlled significant stretches of the western seaboard of Scotland fromMorverntoLoch Hourn,and the whole of the Hebrides save forSkye(which Robert had given toHugh of Rossinstead).[84]From 1336 onwards John began to style himselfDominus Insularum— "Lord of the Isles",a title that implied a connection to the earlier Kings of the Isles and by extension a degree of independence from the Scottish crown;[84][85][86]this honorific was claimed by his heirs for several generations.[87]The MacDonalds had thus achieved command of a strong semi-independent maritime realm, and considered themselves equals of the kings of Scotland, Norway, and England.[88]
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/57/Finlaggan_-_Eilean_M%C3%B3r_from_the_north_20120411.jpg/220px-Finlaggan_-_Eilean_M%C3%B3r_from_the_north_20120411.jpg)
Initially, their power base was on the shores ofLoch Finlagganin northeastern Islay, near the present-day village ofCaol Ila.Successive chiefs of Clan Donald were proclaimed Lord of the Isles there, upon an ancient seven-foot-square coronation stone bearing footprint impressions in which the new ruler stood barefoot and was anointed by theBishop of Argylland seven priests.[89]The Lord's advisory "Council of the Isles"met on Eilean na Comhairle[Note 7](Council Island), inLoch Finlagganon Islay, within a timber framedcrannogthat had originally been constructed in the first century BC.
TheIslay Charter,a record of lands granted to an Islay resident in 1408, Brian Vicar MacKay, byDomhnall of Islay, Lord of the Isles,is one of the earliest records ofGaelicin public use, and is a significant historical document.[92]In 1437, the Lordship was substantially expanded whenAlexander, the Lord of the Isles,inherited the rule of Ross maternally; this included Skye. The expansion of MacDonald control caused the "heart of the Lordship"to move to the twin castles ofArosandArdtornish,in theSound of Mull.[93]
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Another_view_of_Dunyvaig_Castle_-_geograph.org.uk_-_865592.jpg/220px-Another_view_of_Dunyvaig_Castle_-_geograph.org.uk_-_865592.jpg)
In 1462, the last and most ambitious of the Lords,John MacDonald II,struck an alliance withEdward IV of Englandunder terms of theTreaty of Ardtornish-Westminsterwith the goal of conquering Scotland. The onset of theWars of the Rosesprevented the treaty from being discovered by Scottish agents, and Edward from fulfilling his obligations as an ally. A decade later, in 1475, it had come to the attention of the Scottish court, but calls for forfeiture of the Lordship were calmed when John quitclaimed his mainland territories, and Skye. However, ambition wasn't given up so easily, and John's nephew launched a severeraid on Ross,but it ultimately failed. Within 2 years of the raid, in 1493, MacDonald was compelled to forfeit his estates and titles toJames IV of Scotland;by this forfeiture, the lands became part of Scotland, rather than a crown dependency.
James ordered Finlaggan demolished, its buildings razed, and the coronation stone destroyed, to discourage any attempts at restoration of the Lordship.[94][95][Note 8]WhenMartin Martinvisited Islay in the late 17th century he recorded a description of the coronations Finlaggan had once seen.[Note 9].John was exiled from his former lands, and his former subjects now considered themselves to have no superior except the king. A charter was soon sent fromthe Scottish Kingconfirming this state of affairs; it declares that Skye and the Outer Hebrides are to be considered independent from the rest of the former Lordship, leaving only Islay and Jura remaining in the comital unit.
16th and 17th centuries
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/IslayHouse.jpg/220px-IslayHouse.jpg)
James Vsent gunners to garrison forts in Islay in 1540.[98]Initially dispossessed in the wake of royal opposition to the Lordship,Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg's holdings in Islay were restored in 1545.[99]TheMacLeanfamily had been granted land in Jura in 1390, by the MacDonalds, and in 1493 had thus been seen as the natural replacement for them, leading toa branch of the MacLeansbeing grantedDunyvaig Castleby king James, and expanding into Islay. Naturally, the restoration of the MacDonalds created some hostility with the MacLeans; in 1549, after observing that Islay was fertile, fruitful, and full of natural pastures, with good hunting and plentiful salmon and seals,Dean Monrodescribes Dunyvaig, andLoch Gorm Castle"now usurped be M’Gillayne ofDoward".[100][Note 10].The dispute continued for decades, and in 1578 the Macleans were expelled from Loch Gorm by force, and in 1598 their branch was finally defeated at theBattle of Traigh Ghruinneart.
However, whenSorley Boy MacDonnell(of the Islay MacDonalds) had a clash with the Irish branch of the Macleans, and the unpopularity of the MacDonalds inEdinburgh(where their use of Gaelic was regarded as barbaric), weakened their grip on their southern Hebridean possessions. In 1608, Coupled with MacDonald hostility to theScottish reformation,this led theScottish-English crownto mount an expedition to subdue them. In 1614 the crown handed Islay to Sir JohnCampbell of Cawdor,in return for an undertaking to pacify it;[101][102]this the Campbells eventually achieved. Under Campbell influence,shrievalauthority was established under thesheriff of Argyll.With inherited Campbell control of the sheriffdom,comital authoritywas relatively superfluous, and the provincial identity (medieval Latin:provincia) of Islay-Jura faded away.
The situation was soon complicated by theCivil War,whenArchibald,the head of the most powerful branch of the Campbells, was the de facto head ofCovenantergovernment, while other branches (and evenArchibald's son) were committedRoyalists.ACovenanterarmy underSir David Lesliearrived on Islay in 1647, and besieged the royalist garrison at Dunnyvaig, laying waste to the island.[103]It was not until 1677 that the Campbells felt sufficiently at ease to constructIslay Houseat Bridgend to be their principal, and unfortified, island residence.[104][Note 11]
Martin Martinrecorded that Sir Hugh Campbell of Caddell was the king's steward of Islay in the late seventeenth century.[107]
British era
[edit]18th and 19th centuries
[edit]At the beginning of the 18th century much of the population of Argyll was to be found dispersed in small clachans of farming families[108]and only two villages of any size, Killarow near Bridgend and Lagavulin, existed on Islay at the time.[109](Killarow had a church andtolboothand houses for merchants and craft workers but was razed in the 1760s to "improve" the grounds of Islay House.)[109]The agricultural economy was dependent on arable farming including staples such as barley and oats supplemented with stock-rearing. The carrying capacity of the island was recorded at over 6,600 cows and 2,200 horses in a 1722 rental listing.[110]
In 1726 Islay was purchased byJohn Campbell of Mamoreusing compensation fromGlasgowTown Council (£9000) for damages during theMalt tax riots.[111]When he died in 1729 the island passed to his son, Daniel Campbell ofShawfield.[112][113]Following theJacobiteinsurrections of 1745–6, theHeritable Jurisdictions Act 1746abolished comital authority, and the Campbell's control of the sheriffdom; thereafter they could now only assert their influence in their role as Landlords.
A defining aspect of 19th-century Argyll was the gradual improvement of transport infrastructure.[114]Roads were built, theCrinan canalshortened the sea distance toGlasgowand the numerous traditional ferry crossings were augmented by new quays. Rubble piers were built at several locations on Islay and a new harbour was constructed at Port Askaig.[115]Initially, a sense of optimism in the fishing and cattle trades prevailed and the population expanded, partly as a result of the 18th-centurykelpboom and the introduction of the potato as a staple.[116]The population of the island had been estimated at 5,344 in 1755 and grew to over 15,000 by 1841.
Islay remained with the Campbells of Shawfield until 1853 when it was sold toJames MorrisonofBerkshire,ancestor of the thirdBaron Margadale,who still owns a substantial portion of the island.[113]The sundering of the relationship between the landowners and the island's residents proved consequential. When the estate owners realised they could make more money from sheep farming than from the indigenous small farmers, wholesaleClearancesbecame commonplace. Four hundred people emigrated from Islay in 1863 alone, some for purely economic reasons, but many others having been forced off the land their predecessors had farmed for centuries. In 1891 the census recorded only 7,375 citizens, with many evictees making new homes in Canada, the United States and elsewhere. The population continued to decline for much of the 20th century and today is about 3,500.[3][117][118]
In 1899, counties were formally created, on shrieval boundaries, bya Scottish Local Government Act;Islay therefore became part of theCounty of Argyll.
World wars
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ea/American_Monument%2C_Mull_of_Oa_-_geograph.org.uk_-_592728.jpg/220px-American_Monument%2C_Mull_of_Oa_-_geograph.org.uk_-_592728.jpg)
DuringWorld War Itwo troop ships foundered off Islay within a few months of each other in 1918.[119]TheSSTuscania,a converted British liner carrying AmericanDoughboysto France, was torpedoed bySMUB-77on 5 February with the loss of over 160 lives and now lies in deep water 6.4 km (4 mi) west of the Mull of Oa.[120]On 6 OctoberHMSOtrantowas involved in a collision with HMSKashmirin heavy seas while similarly transporting American Doughboys fromNew York Harbor.Otrantolost steering and drifted towards the west coast of the Rinns. Answering her SOS thedestroyerHMSMounseyattempted to come alongside and managed to rescue over 350 men. Nonetheless, theOtrantowas wrecked on the shore nearMachir Baywith a total loss of 431 lives.[121]A monument was erected on the coast of The Oa by theAmerican Red Crossto commemorate the sinking of these two ships.[122]A military cemetery was created at Kilchoman where the dead from both nations in the latter disaster were buried (all but one of the American bodies were later exhumed and returned home).[119][123]
DuringWorld War II,theRAFbuilt an airfield atGlenegedalewhich later became the civilairportfor Islay. There was also anRAF Coastal Commandflying boatbase atBowmorefrom 13 March 1941 using Loch Indaal.[124]In 1944 anRCAF 422 SquadronSunderland flying boat'screw were rescued after their aircraft landed off Bowmore but broke from her moorings in a gale and sank.[125]There was an RAFChain Homeradar station at Saligo Bay and RAFChain Home Lowstation at Kilchiaran.[126][127]
Economy
[edit]The mainstays of the modern Islay economy are agriculture, fishing,distilling,and tourism.[128]
Agriculture and fishing
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Portaskaig.jpg/220px-Portaskaig.jpg)
Much of Islay remains owned by a few non-resident estate owners; sheep farming and the few dairy cattle herds are run by tenant farmers.[128]The island's web site indicates that some cultivation is also being done while some areas of high moorlands include estates for shooting deer. Some bogs are cut for fuel used by a few distilleries and some homeowners. The southeast and eastern areas of Islay also have some plantations growing coniferous trees.[129]
Islay has some fine wildbrown troutandsalmonfishing[130]and in September 2003 the European Fishing Competition was held on five of the island's numerous lochs; this was "the biggest fishing event ever to be held in Scotland".[131]Seaanglingis also popular, especially off the west coast and over the manyshipwrecksaround the coast.[131]There are about 20 commercial boats with crab,lobsterandscallopfishing undertaken from Port Askaig, Port Ellen and Portnahaven.[132][133]
Distilling
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/58/Distilleries_Islay_updated_2011.png/220px-Distilleries_Islay_updated_2011.png)
Islay is one of fivewhiskydistilling localities and regions in Scotland whose identities are protected by law.[134]There are nine active distilleries and one inactive, with plans to begin construction on an eleventh.[135]This industry is the island's second largest employer after agriculture.[136][137]Those on the south of the island producemaltswith a very strongpeatyflavour, considered to be the most intensely flavoured of all whiskies. From east to west they areArdbeg,Lagavulin,andLaphroaig.On the north of the island,Bowmore,Bruichladdich,Caol Ila,BunnahabhainandArdnahoeare produced, which are substantially lighter in taste.[138][139]Kilchomanopened in 2005 toward the west coast of the Rinns.[140]
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Scotland_Argyll_Bute_Islay_Lagavulin_Distillery_01.jpg/220px-Scotland_Argyll_Bute_Islay_Lagavulin_Distillery_01.jpg)
The oldest record of a legal distillery on the island refers to Bowmore in 1779 and at one time there were up to 23 distilleries in operation.[141]For example,Port Charlotte distilleryoperated from 1829 to 1929[142]andPort Ellenis also closed although it remains in business as amalting.[141]In March 2007, Bruichladdich announced that they would reopen Port Charlotte distillery using equipment from the Inverleven distillery.[142]
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b8/Laphroaig_Distillery.jpg/220px-Laphroaig_Distillery.jpg)
In general, the whiskies from this island are known for "pungent peaty, smoky and oily flavours, with just a hint of salty sea air and seaweed" because of the use of peat and the maritime climate, according to one report.[143]The island's own web site is more specific. Distilleries in the south make whisky which is "medium-bodied... saturated with peat-smoke, brine and iodine" because they use malt that is heavy with peat as well as peaty water. Whisky from the northern area is milder because it is made using spring water for a "lighter flavoured, mossy (rather than peaty), with some seaweed, some nuts..." characteristic.[144]
Tourism
[edit]Some 45,000 summer visitors arrive each year by ferry and a further 11,000 by air.[145]The main attractions are the scenery, history,bird watchingand the world-famous whiskies.[146]The distilleries operate various shops, tours and visitor centres,[147]and the Finlaggan Trust has a visitor centre which is open daily during the summer.[148]
Golf is available on the 116-year-oldMachrie golf coursenow owned byGavyn Daviesand his wifeSusan Nye, Baroness Nye;the course was redesigned and reopened in 2017. (The adjoining Macrhie Hotel, with 47 bedrooms, was recently rebuilt.)[149]Walkers and cyclists appreciate the 210 kilometres of coastline. Bird watchers should also be satisfied.[150]
The web siteTrip Advisorrates the following as the top ten Sights & Landmarks on the island: Kildalton Cross in Port Ellen, Finlaggan in Ballygrant, Kildalton High Cross and Old Parish Church in Port Ellen, the American Monument, Kilchoman Military Cemetery, The Round Church in Bowmore, Kilnave Cross, Dunyvaig Castle in Lagavulin, Portnahaven Harbour, and Kilchoman Church.[151]
According to a July 2018 report, some summer days see nearly 6,000 tourists on the island and over 15,000 during the Feis Ile whisky festival in May. Those are very high numbers for an island with approximately 3,200 residents. That has led to some concern that the unique flavour of Islay is being negatively affected.[152]Still, there are no large hotels on the island yet, with tourist accommodation provided by guest houses, B&Bs, small hotels such as the Port Charlotte Hotel and the Harbour Inn at Bowmore,[150]self catering cottages and a youth hostel. Two campsites are available; one of them can accommodate motorhomes.[153][154]
Renewable energy
[edit]![Satellite image of Islay (left) and the southern part of Jura (top right)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Wfm_islay_landsat.jpg/220px-Wfm_islay_landsat.jpg)
The location of Islay, exposed to the full force of the North Atlantic, has led to it being the site of a pioneering, and Scotland's first,wave powerstation near Portnahaven. TheIslay LIMPET(Land Installed Marine Powered Energy Transformer) wave power generator was designed and built by Wavegen and researchers from theQueen's University of Belfast,and was financially backed by the European Union. Known as Limpet 500, due to cabling constraints its capacity was limited to providing up to 150 kW of electricity into the island's grid.[155]In 2000 it became the world's first commercial wave power station. It has since been decommissioned.
In March 2011 the largesttidal arrayin the world was approved by the Scottish Government with 10 planned turbines predicted to generate enough power for over 5,000 homes. The project will be located in theSound of Islaywhich offers both strong currents and shelter from storms.[156]
Transport
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Finlaggan_approaching_Kennacraig.jpg/220px-Finlaggan_approaching_Kennacraig.jpg)
Many of the roads on the island are single-track with passing places. The two main roads are theA846from Ardbeg to Port Askaig via Port Ellen and Bowmore, and theA847which runs down the east coast of the Rhinns.[29]The island has its own bus service provided by Islay Coaches, andGlenegedale Airportoffers flights to and fromGlasgow International Airportand on a less regular basis toObanandColonsay.[157]
Caledonian MacBrayneoperate regular ferry services to Port Ellen and Port Askaig fromKennacraig,taking about two hours. Ferries to Port Askaig also run on toScalasaigonColonsayand, on summer Wednesdays, toOban.The purpose-built vessel,MVFinlagganentered service in 2011.[158]ASP Ship Management Ltd operate a small car ferry on behalf ofArgyll & Bute Councilfrom Port Askaig toFeolinonJura.[159]Kintyre Express will begin operating passenger only services between Port Ellen and Ballycastle in Northern Ireland from Fridays to Mondays through June, July and August.
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/da/Portellen_lighthouse.jpg/220px-Portellen_lighthouse.jpg)
There are variouslighthouseson and around Islay as an aid to navigation. These include the Rinns of Islay light built on Orsay in 1825 byRobert Stevenson,[160]Ruvaalat the north eastern tip of Islay constructed in 1859,[161]Carraig Fhada at Port Ellen, which has an unusual design,[162]andDubh Artach,an isolated rock tower some 35 km (22 mi) northwest of Ruvaal.
Other activities
[edit]Since 1973 theIleachhas been delivering news to the people of Islay every fortnight and was named community newspaper of the year in 2007.[163][164]The Islay Ales Brewery brews variousreal alesat its premises near Bridgend.[165]In the early 21st century a campus ofSabhal Mòr Ostaigwas set up on Islay,Ionad Chaluim Chille Ìle,which teaches Gaelic language, culture and heritage.[166]The Port Mòr community centre at Port Charlotte, which is equipped with amicro wind turbineand a ground-source heating system, is the creation of localdevelopment trustIomairt Chille Chomain.[167][168]
Infrastructure
[edit]Telecommunications
[edit]A 16 miles (26 km) submarine telegraph cable was laid in July 1871 between Ardenistle near Port Ellen on Islay and Kintyre using the SSRobert Lowe.[169]The schooner Catherine and Mary of Leith arrived at the end of July with poles, wires and other equipment to extend the telegraph throughout the island.[170]but there was a delay in starting work. It was reported in September 1871 that Lieutenant Turner, provisional engineer with six Royal Engineers had just commenced operations to lay a line from Port Ellen to Port Askaig which was scheduled to be completed within 3 months.[171]The telegraph office opened in Port Ellen for business on 12 December 1871.[172]A branch line from Bridgend to Bowmore was completed in January 1872[173]and telegraph offices in Bowmore and Port Askaig opened on 1 April 1872.
In 1935 a submarine cable 17 miles (27 km) long was laid from Glencardock Point on Kintyre to Port Ellen. The first telephone exchange was built in Port Ellen and 200 miles of telephone wires erected across the island. The first call was made on 19 September 1935 when Mr A. Kerr Murray of the Scottish Western District of the Post Office Telephone Department inaugurated the trunk service in Port Ellen with a call to Provost A. MacEachran of Campbeltown. To meet the cost of providing the service a fee of 6d was charged in addition to the ordinary trunk charge.[174]Expansion of the service took place in 1936 with the first automatic exchange opening in Bowmore on 23 September and at Kidalton on 24 September[175]and in 1937 in Port Charlotte and Port Askaig.[176]
Electricity
[edit]The earliest records of the use of electricity on Islay are from 1894 when theBunnahabhain Distillerywas provided with electric light.[177]The other distilleries followed suit fairly shortly after this, but except for a few people who could afford to install generating plant themselves, electricity was not provided generally for domestic consumption until after theSecond World War.
In 1937 it was reported in the Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser of 22 May 1937 that on Coronation Day in Bowmorethrough the ingenuity of Mr Allan Cameron, chemist, part of the village was floodlit for two nights by electricity from his private plant. This was a source of great admiration and attraction in a village which depends almost entirely on paraffin for light.[178]
In January 1945 theNorth of Scotland Hydro-Electric Boardbegan a survey of Islay to provide electricity. This showed that the generating plant atRAF Bowmorewould prove suitable for temporary use in providing supplies in the early stages of a distribution scheme for the island. TheAir Ministryagreed and the Board purchased the whole of the Bowmore plant.[179]
In September 1948 the North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board switched on the first supply of electricity in Bowmore. Forty houses were connected to the local network which was supplied from a diesel engine.[180]Another 50 premises including the church were connected shortly afterwards and the distribution line from Bowmore to Port Ellen was also under construction.
In 1961 Islay was connected to the mainland with a cable which was submarine for 6 miles from the mainland to Jura and then again for 1.5 miles (2.4 km) from Jura to Islay. The project also involved 42 miles (68 km) of overhead lines.[181]
Gaelic language
[edit]Islay has historically been a very strong Gaelic-speaking area. In both the 1901 and 1921 censuses, all parishes in Islay were reported to be over 75 per cent Gaelic-speaking. By 1971, the Rhinns had dropped to 50–74 per cent Gaelic speakers and the rest of Islay to 25–49 per cent Gaelic speaker overall.[14]By 1991 about a third of the island's population were Gaelic speakers.[182]In the 2001 census this had dropped to 24 per cent, which, while a low figure overall, nonetheless made it the most strongly Gaelic-speaking island inArgyll and Buteafter Tiree, with the highest percentage recorded in Portnahaven (32 per cent) and the lowest in Gortontaoid (17 per cent), with the far north and south of the island being the weakest areas in general.[14]
The Islay dialect is distinctive. It patterns strongly with other Argyll dialects, especially those of Jura, Colonsay andKintyre.[183]Amongst its distinctive phonological features are the shift from long /aː/ to /ɛː/, a high degree of retention of long /eː/, the shift of dark /l̪ˠ/ to /t̪/, the lack of intrusive /t̪/ insrgroups (for example /s̪ɾoːn/ "nose" rather than /s̪t̪ɾoːn/)[184]and the retention of theunlenitedpast-tense particled'(for example,d'èirich"rose" instead ofdh'èirich).[185]It sits within a group oflexical isoglosses(i.e. words distinctive to a certain area) with strong similarities to the southern Scottish Gaelic andUlster Irishdialects. Examples aredhuit"to you" (instead of the more commondhut),[186]the formulagun robh math agad"thank you" (instead of the more commonmòran taingortapadh leatbut compareIrishgo raibh maith agat),[187]mand"able to" (instead of the more commonurrainn)[188]ordeifir"hurry" (instead of the more commoncabhag,Irishdeifir).[189]
Religion
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Kildalton_Cross_-_geograph.org.uk_-_860780.jpg/220px-Kildalton_Cross_-_geograph.org.uk_-_860780.jpg)
Associated with various Islay churches arecupstonesof uncertain age; these can be seen at Kilchoman Church, where the carved cross there is erected on one, and at Kilchiaran Church on the Rhinns. In historic times some may have been associated with pre-Christian wishing ceremonies or pagan beliefs in the "wee folk".[190]
The early pioneers of Christianity in Dál Riata wereColumbaof Iona andMoluagofLismore.[191]The legacy of this period includes the eighth centuryKildalton Cross,Islay's "most famous treasure",[192]carved out of localepidiorite.[193]A carved cross of similar age, but much more heavily weathered can be found at Kilnave,[194]which may have served as a site of lay worship.[195]Although the first Norse settlers were pagan, Islay has a substantial number of sites of drystone or clay-mortared chapels with small burial grounds from the later Norse era.[196]In the 12th century the island became part of theDiocese of Sodor and the Isles,which was re-established by KingOlaf Godredsson.[197]The diocese fell within the jurisdiction of theArchdiocese of Nidarosand there were four principal churches on Islay in the Norwegianprestegjeldmodel: Kilnaughton, Kildalton, Kilarrow and Kilmany.[198]In 1472 Islay became part of theArchdiocese of St Andrews.[198]
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Kilarrow_round_church.jpg/220px-Kilarrow_round_church.jpg)
Archibald Campbell, 5th Earl of Argyllwas a strong supporter of theReformation,but there is little evidence that his beliefs were greeted with much enthusiasm by the islanders initially. At first there were only two Protestant churches but in 1642 three parishes were created, based at Kilchoman, Kilarrow and a new church at Dunyvaig. By the end of the century there were seven churches including one on Nave Island.[199]Kilarrow Parish Church,built in 1767 by Daniel Campbell whenlairdof Islay, is round and such, as local folklore has it, has no corner in which the devil could hide.[200]Thekirkon the Rhinns of Islay is St Kiaran's, located just outside the village of Port Charlotte and Port Ellen is served by St John's. There are a variety of otherChurch of Scotlandchurches and various other congregations on the island.Baptistsmeet in Port Ellen and in Bowmore, theScottish Episcopal ChurchofSt. Columbais located inBridgendand the Islay Roman Catholic congregation also uses St Columba's for its services.[201]
Media and the arts
[edit]Islay was featured in some of the scenes of the 1954 filmThe Maggie,[202]and the 1942 documentary "Coastal Command"was partly filmed in Bowmore.[203]
In 1967–68, folk-rock songwriter and singer Donovan included "Isle of Islay" in his album,A Gift from a Flower to a Garden,a song praising the pastoral beauties of the island.[Note 12]"Westering Home"is a 20th-century Scottish song about Islay written byHugh S. Roberton,derived from an earlier Gaelic song.[205][206]
In the 1990s the BBC adaptation ofPara Handywas partly filmed in Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich and featured a race between theVital Spark(Para Handy'spuffer) and a rival along the length of Loch Indaal. In 2007, parts of the BBCSpringwatchprogramme were recorded on Islay withSimon Kingbeing based on Islay. The British Channel 4 archaeological television programmeTime Teamexcavated at Finlaggan, the episode being first broadcast in 1995.[207][208][209]
In 2000, Japanese authorHaruki Murakamivisited the island to sample seven single malt whiskies on the island and later wrote a travel book calledIf our language were whisky.
Wildlife
[edit]Islay is home to many species of wildlife and is especially known for its birds. Winter-visitingbarnacle goosenumbers have reached 35,000 in recent years with as many as 10,000 arriving in a single day. There are also up to 12,000Greenland white-fronted geese,and smaller numbers ofbrent,pinkfootedandCanadageese are often found amongst these flocks. Other waterfowl includewhooperandmuteswans,eider duck,Slavonian grebe,goldeneye,long-tailed duckandwigeon.[210]The elusivecorncrakeandsanderling,ringed ploverandcurlew sandpiperare amongst the summer visitors.[210]Resident birds includered-billed chough,hen harrier,golden eagle,peregrine falcon,barn owl,raven,oystercatcherandguillemot.[210]The re-introducedwhite-tailed sea eagleis now seen regularly around the coasts.[211]In all, about 105 species breed on the island each year and between 100 and 120 different species can be seen at any one time.[210]
A population of several thousandred deerinhabit the moors and hills.Fallow deercan be found in the southeast, androe deerare common on low-lying ground.Ottersare common around the coasts along Nave Island, andcommonandgrey sealsbreed on Nave Island. Offshore, a variety ofcetaceansare regularly recorded includingminke whales,pilot whales,killer whalesandbottle-nosed dolphins.The only snake on Islay is theadderand thecommon lizardis widespread although not commonly seen.[212]The island supports a significant population of themarsh fritillaryalong with numerous other moths and butterflies.[213]The mild climate supports a diversity of flora, typical of theInner Hebrides.[214]
Notable natives
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Port_Ellen%2C_Islay.jpg/220px-Port_Ellen%2C_Islay.jpg)
- Glenn Campbell(born 1976), Scottish political reporter for the BBC, was brought up on Islay and attended Islay High School.[215]
- John Francis Campbell(1821-1885), authority onScottish folkloreand joint inventor of theCampbell–Stokes recorder.The son of Daniel Campbell of Shawfield, his father's bankruptcy prevented him inheriting the Islay estate. There is, however, a monument commemorating him at Bridgend.[216]
- Alistair Carmichael(born 1965), the Liberal Democrat Deputy Chief Whip, was born on Islay to hill-farming parents. He has representedOrkney and ShetlandatWestminstersince 2001.[217]
- Donald Caskie(1902–1983) was born on Islay. He became known as the "Tartan Pimpernel" for his exploits in France during World War II.[218]
- John Crawfurd(1783-1868) was born on Islay and during a long career as acolonial administratorhe became governor ofSingapore.He also wrote a number of books includingJournal of an Embassy from the Governor General of India to the Courts of Siam and Cochin China(1828).[219]
- William Livingstone(Scottish Gaelic:Uilleam Mac Dhunlèibhe) (1808-1870), an important figure in 19th-centuryScottish Gaelic literatureand chronicler in verse of theHighland Clearancesupon Islay, was born upon the Gartmain farm nearBowmore.[220]
- David MacIntyre(1895-1967) from Portnahaven, recipient of theVictoria Cross.[221]
- General Alexander McDougall(1732-1786), a figure in theAmerican War of Independenceand the first president of theBank of New York,was born in Kildalton in 1731.[222]
- Bernard MacLaverty(born 1942), Irish author who lived on the island prior to moving to Glasgow.[223]
- George Robertson(born 1946), formerly secretary-general of NATO and BritishDefence Secretary.In 1999 he was made Lord Robertson of Port Ellen.[224]
- Sir William Stewart(born 1935) became the UK government'sChief Scientific Adviserin the late 1980s and early 1990s.[225]
See also
[edit]- List of islands of Scotland
- Lewisian complex
- Scottish island names
- Snowball Earth
- Timeline of prehistoric Scotland
References
[edit]Notes
[edit]- ^Haswell-Smith (2004) has a table of Scottish "islands arranged in order of magnitude" that lists Islay as fifth in rank, although this excludesSkyeas it is a bridged island and includesSouth Uistas fourth on the grounds that it is connected to other islands such asBenbeculaandNorth Uistby causeways that give it a large area.[11]Rick Livingstone’s Tables provide all the relevant area data although the information is not ranked.[12]Ireland is the largest of the islands surrounding Great Britain andAngleseythe sixth largest.
- ^Mac an Tàilleir (2003) suggests that "if this is a Gaelic name it may be 'flank shaped'."[19]
- ^Banrìgh Innse Gallis literally "Queen of the islands of the foreigners" andBanrìgh nan Eileanmeans "Queen of the islands".
- ^The Rhinns complex, named after the Islay peninsula which hosts its largest outcrop, is predominantlyPalaeoproterozoicsyeniticgneiss. It liesunconformablybeneath the Colonsay Group.[34]
- ^At the time thisAhrensburgianflint was the oldest find in Scotland[53]but a subsequent discovery atBiggarpredates it by over a millennium.[54]
- ^Various locations have been suggested for the battle, including west of the Rinns and north of Rubh' a' Mhail. Marsden (2008) concludes that a location at the north end of the Sound of Islay is most likely.[76]
- ^Loch Finlaggan has two main islands. Eilean Mòr was probably an early Christian centre and was fortified in the 13th and 14th centuries.[90][91]
- ^While the Lordship itself did not survive, the title did; today, the heir to the British throne, who is known as thePrince of Walesin all other parts of theBritish Commonwealth,bears the title Lord of the Isles within Scotland.[96]
- ^Martin wrote of the "isle Finlagan", that it is "famous for being once the court in which the great Macdonald, King of the Isles, had his residence; his houses, chapel, etc., are now ruinous. His guards de corps, called Lucht-taeh, kept guard on the lake side nearest to the isle; the walls of their houses are still to be seen there. The High Court of Judicature, consisting of fourteen, sat always here; and there was an appeal to them from all the Courts in the isles: the eleventh share of the sum in debate was due to the principal judge. There was a big stone of seven feet square, in which there was a deep impression made to receive the feet of Macdonald; for he was crowned King of the Isles standing in this stone, and swore that he would continue his vassals in the possession of their lands, and do exact justice to all his subjects: and then his father’s sword was put into his hand. The Bishop of Argyll and seven priests anointed him king, in presence of all the heads of the tribes in the isles and continent, and were his vassals; at which time the orator rehearsed a catalogue of his ancestors, etc."[97]
- ^With regard to the castles of Islay Monro wrote: "In this iyle there is strenths castells; the first is callit Dunowaik, biggit on ane craig at the sea side, on the southeist part of the countery pertaining to the Clandonald of Kintyre; second is callit the castle of Lochgurne, quhilk is biggit ill ane iyle within the said fresche water loche far fra land, pertaining of auld to the Clandonald of Kintyre, now usurped be M’Gillayne of Doward. Ellan Forlagan, in the middle of Ila, ane faire iyle in fresche water.[100]
- ^The structure was built for Sir Hugh Campbell of Cawdor and is now used as a hotel.[105]It is aCategory A listed building.[106]
- ^It is claimed that Donovan wrote the song after being arrested for possession ofmarijuanaand that "I had to leave, I had to get away from the publicity, so I took a plane north to Scotland, and on a northern island I found the peace, and I wrote this song."[204]
Footnotes
[edit]- ^"Map of Scotland in Scots - Guide and gazetteer"(PDF).
- ^abGammeltoft 2007,p. 487
- ^abcdefHaswell-Smith 2004,p. 41
- ^Haswell-Smith 2004,p. 42
- ^abArea and population ranks: there arec. 300islands over 20 ha in extent and93 permanently inhabited islandswere listed in the2011 census.
- ^abcNational Records of Scotland(15 August 2013)."Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands"(PDF).Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two)(PDF)(Report). SG/2013/126.Retrieved14 August2020.
- ^National Records of Scotland."Table KS101SC – Usual Resident Population, all people; Settlement/Locality 2010; Port Ellen".Scotland's Census 2011.Archived fromthe originalon 13 June 2016.From the main page select Results, Standard Outputs, year 2011, table KS101SC,area type locality 2010. On the map click Bowmore and Port Ellen for comparison.
- ^abNewton 1995,p. 11
- ^Newton 1995,p. 20
- ^Newton 1995,p. 31
- ^Haswell-Smith 2004,p. 502
- ^Rick Livingstone’s Tables of the Islands of Scotland(pdf) Argyll Yacht Charters. Retrieved 12 December 2011.
- ^Caldwell 2011,p. 58
- ^abcMac an Tàilleir, Iain (2004)1901–2001 Gaelic in the CensusArchived7 December 2010 at theWayback Machine(PowerPoint) Linguae Celticae. Retrieved 19 September 2012.
- ^Caldwell 2011,p. 91
- ^Watson (1994) p. 37
- ^Watson (1994) p. 45
- ^Watson (1994) p. 85-86
- ^abcMac an Tàilleir 2003,p. 67
- ^"Atlas of Scotland 1654 – ILA INSVLA – The Isle of Ila".Wikimedia Commons. Retrieved 20 July 2013.
- ^"Atlas of Scotland 1654 – IVRA INSVLA – The Isle of Jura".Wikimedia Commons. Retrieved 20 July 2013.
- ^"Visitors"Archived1 June 2020 at theWayback Machine.Highlands and Islands Airports. Retrieved 22 March 2012.
- ^Jennings & Kruse 2009a,pp. 83–84
- ^King & Cotter 2012,p. 4
- ^King & Cotter 2012,p. 6
- ^King & Cotter 2012,pp. 34, 36–43
- ^King & Cotter 2012,p. 31
- ^Murray (1966) pp. 22–23
- ^abcdefGet-a-map: Sheet 60Islay(Map).Ordnance Survey.Retrieved18 March2012.
- ^Murray (1966) p. 32
- ^Newton 1995,p. 42
- ^Murray (1966) p. 30
- ^abCaldwell 2011,p. xxv
- ^abJ.S. Daly; R.j. Muir; R.A. Cliff (1991)."A precise U-Pb zircon age for the Inishtrahull syenitic gneiss, County Donegal, Ireland".Journal of the Geological Society.148(4): 639–642.Bibcode:1991JGSoc.148..639D.doi:10.1144/gsjgs.148.4.0639.S2CID129740602.Retrieved15 September2012.
- ^R.J. Muir; W.R. Fitches; A.J. Maltman; M.R. Bentley (1994)."Precambrian rocks of the southern Inner Hebrides—Malin Sea region: Colonsay, west Islay, Inishtrahull and Iona".In Harris A.L. & Gibbons W. (ed.).A Revised Correlation of Precambrian Rocks in the British Isles.Special Report. Vol. 22 (2 ed.). London:Geological Society.pp. 54–56.ISBN9781897799116.Retrieved15 September2012.
- ^Gillen 2003,p. 65
- ^Haswell-Smith 2004,p. 47
- ^ab"Islay Geology"Archived19 October 2012 at theWayback Machine.Islay Natural History Trust. Retrieved 18 September 2012.
- ^Strachan, R. A, Smith, M., Harris, A. L., Fettes, D. J. "The Northern Highland and Grampian Terranes" inTrewin 2002,p. 96
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General references
[edit]- Baird, Bob (1995).Shipwrecks of the West of Scotland.Glasgow: Nekton Books.ISBN978-1-897995-02-0.
- Caldwell, David H. (2011).Islay, Jura and Colonsay: A Historical Guide.Edinburgh: Birlinn.ISBN978-1-84158-961-9.
- Duffy, Seán (1992). "Irishmen and Islesmen in the Kingdom of Dublin and Man 1052–1171".Ériu.43(43): 93–133.JSTOR30007421.
- —— (2004). "Godred Crovan (d. 1095)".Oxford Dictionary of National Biography.Oxford: Oxford University Press.
- Gammeltoft, Peder (2007). "Scandinavian Naming-Systems in the Hebrides—A Way of Understanding how the Scandinavians were in Contact with Gaels and Picts?". In Ballin-Smith, Beverley; Taylor, Simon; Williams, Gareth (eds.).West over Sea: Studies in Scandinavian Sea-Borne Expansion and Settlement Before 1300.Leiden: Brill.
- Gillen, Con (2003).Geology and landscapes of Scotland.Harpenden: Terra Publishing.ISBN978-1903544099.
- Graham-Campbell, James;Batey, Colleen E. (1998).Vikings in Scotland: An Archaeological Survey.Edinburgh University Press.ISBN978-0-7486-0641-2.
- Grannd, Seumas (2000).The Gaelic of Islay: A Comparative Study.Scottish Gaelic Studies Monograph Series 2. Department of Celtic, University of Aberdeen.ISBN978-0-9523911-4-2.
- Gregory, Donald(1881).The history of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland, from A.D. 1493 to A.D. 1625, with a brief introductory sketch, from A.D. 80 to A.D. 1493(2nd ed.). London; Glasgow: Hamilton, Adams & Co.; Thomas D. Morison.
- Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004).The Scottish Islands.Edinburgh: Canongate.ISBN978-1-84195-454-7.
- Hunter, James(2000).Last of the Free: A History of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland.Edinburgh: Mainstream.ISBN978-1-84018-376-4.
- Jennings, Andrew; Kruse, Arne (2009a). "One Coast-Three Peoples: Names and Ethnicity in the Scottish West during the Early Viking period". In Woolf, Alex (ed.).Scandinavian Scotland – Twenty Years After: The Proceedings of a Day Conference held on 19 February 2007.St John's House Papers No 12. St. Andrews: University of St. Andrews, Committee for Dark Age Studies. pp. 75–102.ISBN978-0-9512573-7-1.
- ——; —— (2009b)."From Dál Riata to the Gall-Ghàidheil".Viking and Medieval Scandinavia.5:123–149.doi:10.1484/J.VMS.1.100676.hdl:20.500.11820/762e78fe-2a9c-43cf-8173-8300892b31cb.
- Jupp, Clifford (1994).The History of Islay: From earliest times to 1848.Port Charlotte: Museum of Islay Life. ASIN B0000COS6B.
- Keay, John; Keay, Julie, eds. (1994).Collins Encyclopaedia of Scotland(1st ed.). Hammersmith, London: HarperCollins.ISBN978-0-00-255082-6.
- King, Jacob; Cotter, Michelle (2012).Place-names in Islay and Jura.Perth:Scottish Natural Heritage.
- Lee, Henry James (1920).History of the clan Donald, the families of MacDonald, McDonald and McDonnell.New York: Polk and Company.
- Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2003)."Ainmean-àite"[Placenames: Faddoch – Jura](PDF).www.scottish.parliament.uk/gd/visitandlearn/40900.aspx(in Scottish Gaelic and English).Pàrlamaid na h-Alba / Parliament of Scotland.Retrieved18 June2015.
- MacDonald, R. Andrew (2007).Manx kingship in its Irish Sea setting, 1187–1229: King Rognvaldr and the Crovan dynasty.Dublin: Four Courts Press.ISBN978-1-84682-047-2.
- Martin, Martin(1703).A Description of The Western Islands of Scotland(1st ed.). London: Andrew Bell.
- Mithen, Steven (2006).After the ice: a global human history, 20,000–5000 BC.Cambridge: Harvard University Press.ISBN978-0-674-01570-8.
- Moffat, Alistair (2005).Before Scotland: The Story of Scotland Before History.London: Thames & Hudson.
- Monro, Donald(1774) [1773]."A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland, Called Hybrides".A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland, Called Hybrides (and other works).Edinburgh: William Auld.Date of composition without publishing is 1549. Date of first independent publication is 1582.
- Murray, W. H.(1966).The Hebrides.London: Heinemann.
- Newton, Norman (1995).Islay.Devon: David & Charles PLC.ISBN978-0-907115-90-8.
- Omand, Donald (ed.) (2006)The Argyll Book.Edinburgh. Birlinn.ISBN978-1-84158-480-5
- Rodger, N. A. M. (1997).The Safeguard of the Sea: A Naval History of Britain.Vol. One 660–1649. London: Harper Collins.
- Storrie, Margaret (1997).Islay: Biography of an Island.Colonsay: House of Lochar.ISBN978-0-907651-03-1.
- Trewin, Nigel H. (2002).The Geology of Scotland(4th ed.). Bath: The Geology Society.ISBN978-1862391260.
- Watson, W. J.(1994)The Celtic Place-Names of Scotland.Edinburgh. Birlinn.ISBN1-84158-323-5.First published 1926.
- Woolf, Alex(2012)"Ancient Kindred? Dál Riata and the Cruthin".St Andrews University. Academia.edu. Retrieved 19 September 2012.
External links
[edit]![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/30px-Commons-logo.svg.png)
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- Map sourcesfor Islay
- "Isle of Islay".Islay Info. 2014.Provides additional information on the demographics and culture of Islay and the Hebrides.
- "The Islay Natural History Trust".Port Charlotte, Islay: The Natural History Centre. Archived fromthe originalon 27 August 2019.Retrieved22 July2009.Provides additional detailed information on the terrain and the species inhabiting niches on Islay.
- Van Ells, Mark D. (13 June 2013)."Isle of Islay: Cliffs Prove Deadly in WWI Shipwrecks".Stars & Stripes.Archived fromthe originalon 3 July 2016.Retrieved12 April2014.Specialized information on the maritime hazards of the coastline.