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Lüchow's

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Coordinates:40°44′2″N73°59′20.5″W/ 40.73389°N 73.989028°W/40.73389; -73.989028
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Not to be confused withLüchow.
Caption from postcard: 80th Anniversary. Renowned for its superb food, imported beers, and fine wines, Luchow's, The Gourmets' Rendezvous Since 1882, continues to be the favorite eating place of the world's celebrities. Open every day except Monday.

Luchow'sc. 1902:"Garden" as seen from "Cafe" showing the effect created by skylights added in the extensive 1902 construction. The big arched opening at the rear is actually a mirror. Gaslights are shown. To the left is the door where the headwaiter stood. Within, right, is the office, later a semi-private dining room.

Lüchow'swas a restaurant at 110East 14th StreetatIrving PlaceinEast Village(nearUnion Square) inManhattan,New York City,with the property running clear through the block to13th Street.It was established in 1882[1]– at a time when the surrounding neighborhood was primarily residential[2]– when a German immigrant, August Lüchow, purchased the cafe where he worked as a bartender and waiter.[3]Lüchow's remained in operation at this place for a full century, becoming a favorite establishment for people in the entertainment world, helped by its proximity to theAcademy of Music,the city's opera house, as well asSteinway HallandTammany Hall,where other entertainment was offered.[2]

Although in the 1930s columnistO. O. McIntyrehad written "In a changing world, nothing changes at Lüchow's", eventually even the long-running establishment came to an end,[4]closing after an attempt to stimulate business in 1982 by moving to theTheater District.[5]This new effort failed and ended in 1984,[2]leaving behind satellite locations which closed permanently in May 1986.[6]The 14th Street building was finally demolished in 1995[7]after being gutted by a fire the year before.[8]

Pronunciation[edit]

The German nameLüchowis pronounced[ˈlyːçoː]with the⟨w⟩being silent. The restaurant's name has generally been pronounced/ˈluːtʃaʊz/LOO-chowz,anAnglicization.Theumlautover the⟨ü⟩was left out between 1917 and 1950,[9]which is said to have caused difficulties: "The absence of the umlaut had led many new customers to believe that the place was a Chinese restaurant," according toThe New York Times.[9]

History[edit]

Through the doors of Luchow's pass all the famous people of the world.

—Legend seen on entering the main reception room,
originally said byJames Montgomery Flagg[10]

Context[edit]

August Guido Lüchow, an immigrant from the city ofHanover,Germany, arrived in the United States in 1879 at the age of 23.[11]After working as waiter for a cafe on Duane Street, he became a bartender and waiter at a cafe and beer garden belonging to Baron von Mehlbach.[12]Three years later, aged 26, he was able to purchase the business with the help of a $1500 loan fromWilliam Steinway,the piano magnate,[3]who had his concert-hall-and-showrooms venueSteinway Hallacross the street at Union Square, and was a regular customer at the von Mehlbach establishment.[12]The property was only about an eighth in size of what would becomeLüchow's,and did not yet reach 13th Street on the downtown side.[12]

At that time the stretch of 14th Street extending crosstown on either side of Union Square was at the heart of the most prestigious part of the city, and August Lüchow's new establishment quickly became known as "the capital of 14th Street".[13]

William Steinwayhas been called the "patron saint" of Lüchow's[14]
Diamond Jim Bradywas ahabituéof the restaurant...
... and had noted actressLillian Russellas his eating companion

Steinway and his circle of touring and transplanted European musicians comprisedLüchow'score clientele during the early years. A pre-sailing farewell engagement atLüchow'sin honor of the pianistIgnaz Paderewski– which lasted six hours – is noted byThe New York Timesin 1906.[15]James Huneker,writing for theTimesin 1919,[16]describes how he was called upon in the 1890s to introduceAntonín Dvořák– who is referred to as "OldBorax"– to New York society by founder of theNational ConservatoryJeanette Myers Thurber, who had engaged the composer to lead her nascent musical institution: "Later we went down to Gus Lüchow's. For a musician not to be seen atLüchow'sargued that he was unknown in the social world of tone. "Huneker also relates several anecdotes aboutOscar Hammerstein,another Lüchow'shabitué.[16]

Early operation[edit]

By 1885 Lüchow had become the American agent forWürzburger Beerand shortly thereafter forPilsner,[17]another famous brand, made with soft water. Space was at a premium, and so the beer garden located behind the original restaurant on the east was made to provide access to a newly purchased lot extending back to 13th Street, on which stables were built to enable delivery of beer throughout the city.[18]In 1902 further construction was undertaken,[19]converting the stables, beer garden, and another large space behind the bar on the west into three ornate dark-panelled rooms, two of which had 30' ceilings – with frosted skylights with etched stained glass. These became known as the "HeidelbergRoom "– still being called" the New Room "eighty years later,[18]"Garden" – because it occupied the location of the original beer garden – and "Cafe", respectively. With the purchase in 1910 of the Huber Museum property at 106 East 14th Street[20]the restaurant's physical layout took its final form, allowing the addition of two more public rooms: Hunting, andNibelungen.The restaurant opened a satellite restaurant at the 1901Pan-American Expositionheld inBuffalo, NY,as part of its German Village ( "Alt Nürnberg" ).[21]

The Heidelberg Room featured the enormous 7'x10' painting ofThe Potato Gatherersby Swedish artistAugust Hagborg,that Lüchow had purchased at theSt. Louis World's Fairin 1904, when he was there to run the food concession for the Tyrolean Alps Exhibit.[19]The painting was still to be found in its place at the back of the New Room in 1980[18]– near the 13th Street entrance.[22]Also prominent in the Heidelberg Room was an extremely large model of the four masted clipper shipGreat Republic[18]which was visible from the majority of tables in the six main rooms, in addition to numerous "small masterpieces of the Dutch, Austrian and Flemish schools".[23]Multitudes of mounted animal heads[24]and colorful beer steins having German and Austrian geographical significance – of varied and sometimes extreme size – were displayed throughout the room.[10][25]The Hunting (or Hunt) Room – where, as latter-day owner Jan Mitchell once observed[23]"twenty-one mounted deer heads gaze in blank nonchalance upon the pleasant spectacle of their descendants being eaten with considerable satisfaction" – was especially prolific in regard to taxidermy, and provided a few big tables to accommodate the larger parties of guests within the public rooms.

Theart nouveau"Diamond Jim Brady Room" was fitted out with matching cabinetry appointments andTiffany glass,with arched mirrors of beveled glass and cut flowers across an expanse of marble and dark carved mahogany: "At one end stands the knightly figure ofLohengrin,and at the other, on the wall, broods a shaggy buffalo head obtained at the St. Louis World's Fair. An oil painting ofBacchusappropriately surveys this scene from the opposite wall. "[10]The room was named afterDiamond Jim Brady,a voracious eater who was referred to by one New York restaurateur as "the best twenty-five customers I ever had".[26]Brady was not a gangster, as some assumed, but a successful executive and founder of an automobile and railroad rolling stock manufacturer, theStandard Steel Car Company– later merged withPullman– who had a passion for fancy jewelry. He said, "Each must have a good time in his own way."[27]Brady's long-time eating companion was the noted actressLillian Russell,[28]for whom another room at Lüchow's was named.

Latter years[edit]

August Lüchow died in 1923, and ownership of the business passed to Victor Eckstein, who was his nephew-in-law.[29]Prohibitionhad begun in 1921, and the restaurant had to survive on the strength of its cooking and traditions. After the first few years, Luchow's stopped celebratingNew Year's Day,as the customers who brought their own flasks of alcohol were too rowdy. When Prohibition was repealed in 1933, Luchow's was the recipient of the first café liquor license in New York City.[30]

The umlaut in "Lüchow's" was restored in 1950, when Jan Mitchell, an entrepreneur who rescued several New York restaurants – including theLongchampschain[9]– bought the restaurant from Eckstein after five years of persuasion.[31]Mitchell restored the tradition of holding week-long galas such as the annualVenisonFestival,Bock BeerFestival, a goose fest, and so on,[9]but one of the biggest attractions at Lüchow's, and a tremendous customer draw, was the nightly lighting of the Christmas tree,[31]which began aroundThanksgivingand lasted tillNew Year's.

By the time Lüchow's reached its final iteration on 14th Street, it was owned by one of the two big restaurant conglomerates in New York City at the time,Restaurant Associates,[32]having passed from the hands of the other, Riese Brothers, a couple of years before.[33]Riese Brothers is a restaurant management company, with such names asSchrafft's,Longchamps,Chock Full o' NutsandChildsfiguring prominently in their real estate-oriented business formula.[34]Over time the quality of Lüchow's food and service had taken a turn for the worse, with stemware abandoned in favor of short glasses, and no tablecloths at lunch, according to employees of the period.[35]

NYU's University Hall was built on the site of Lüchow's in 1998

With completion in 1979 of the final round of refurbishments at 14th Street byRestaurant Associates,[35]whose principal, Peter Aschkenasy, was friends with MayorEd Koch,[36]providing much needed publicity, the place was seemingly resurrected, and there were a few years of capacity Christmas season business. Architecture students made their weekly visits to view the eclectic bric-a-brac and statuary, stained glass skylights and art nouveau appointments; and it was said that the frequently mentioned "1500 couverts" (pronounced "covers" ) in one day occurred multiple times.

Demise[edit]

By the 1980s, the Union Square area had deteriorated considerably. The park itself was rundown and in serious need of refurbishment. The discountS. Klein's department store across the street was closed and abandoned; and the movie theatre next to the restaurant had become a rock concert venue, initially also dubbed the "Academy of Music",but later changed to the" Palladium ". There was little left in the neighborhood to attract the type of clientele that Luchow's was intended to appeal to, and in 1982–83 the 14th Street location was abandoned,[37]dealing a serious blow to efforts to revitalize the neighborhood.[38]The saleable contents were auctioned off,[39][40]and the business was moved to a spot below street level at51st StreetandBroadway,with the aim of attracting Theater District crowds,[5]and theumlautwas dropped once again.[41]

The Theatre District restaurant lasted only a few years longer, but Luchow's lived on at other locations, notablyPenn Station.[42]Restaurant Associates having decided to branch out and make use of the famous name.

After Lüchow's moved out, the 14th Street location was briefly the "Palace", a nightclub-cabaret-restaurant[43]and later a gay bar.[44]An attempt was made to have the building demolished in 1985,[45]and it stood vacant for several years, never achieving protected landmark status despite local efforts.[7][46]It became the home of various squatters, drug addicts and prostitutes. In 1994, a mysterious fire destroyed any historic remnant of its vibrant past. The city ordered the building demolished.[47]The building was replaced by University Hall, aNew York Universitydormitory and multi-use complex having retail frontage on 14th Street.[7]Before the dorm was built, NYU announced plans to "revive" Luchow's by including a street-level "Gay 90's" themed restaurant in the building, which they intended to call "Luchow's" if permission could be obtained to do so,[48]but these plans never came to fruition.

Music[edit]

At the turn of the twentieth century Lüchow's was prospering, and a good part of the bottom line came from beer sales.[17]Although he was not the first man to serve these fine imported beers in America, he was first to make them popular, a fact attested to by the popular songHarry Von Tilzerwrote to honor August and his restaurant, "Down Where the Würzburger Flows".[17]"The song traveled from Fourteenth Street to the beer gardens of Cincinnati, St. Louis, Chicago, Milwaukee, and far beyond, and attained such popularity that August declared in some bewilderment: 'I feel like a kind of beer Columbus!'"[49]

Victor Herbertwas instrumental in foundingASCAPin Luchow's
Illustrated bookjacket by co-author and official Luchow's illustratorLudwig Bemelmans;the restaurant as seen from above the Garden, looking across a corner of the Cafe toward the Hunting Room

Victor Herbertwas a concert cellist, conductor and composer of forty-threeoperettasand numerous other choral and instrumental works. He brought an eight-piece orchestra back from Vienna to perform at Lüchow's after one of his tours, and presided as its leader for nearly four years,[17]starting a musical tradition that carried through to the 1980s.[50]A corner table with a commemorative plaque was remembered at Lüchow's as the "Victor Herbert Corner" and the place where Herbert and his associates founded theAmerican Society of Composers, Authors and Publishers(ASCAP) in 1914.[51][52]SongwriterGus Kahnwas another regular at the restaurant; he wrote the lyrics for "Yes, Sir, That's My Baby"there.[2]

Other works and composers which were featured at Luchow's include theart songsofRichard StraussorJohannes Brahms,"In a Persian Market"byAlbert Ketèlbey,Franz Schubert's "Moments Musicaux"orSchwanengesang,Richard Wagner's "Wesendonck Songs",orTannhäuser.For comic relief, there was a strolling Oompah Band, the Royal Bavarians, which played songs such as "Lili Marleen","The Beer Barrel Polka"andSigmund Romberg's "Heidelberger Trinklied"drinking song fromThe Student Prince.[53]

Herbert's and Romberg's Viennese counterpartFranz Lehárand his music, including "Dein ist mein ganzes Herz"and the"Merry Widow Waltz"represent thegemütlicher(comfortable and cozy) side of the restaurant's personality. Other musical fare from this branch –The Tales of HoffmannbyOffenbachandHansel and GretelbyEngelbert Humperdinck,along with theStrauss Waltzessuch as "Blue Danube"– made up a good part of the basic Lüchow's repertoire performed by the piano and string ensemble first known as the Vienna Art Strings, or Quartet,[14]and later as the Victor Herbert Quartet, or Trio.[54]Also played during theChristmasseason were some of the numbers from Herbert'sBabes in Toyland,such as"Toyland"and"March of the Toys",as well as pieces fromThe Nutcracker,and many popularChristmas carolsand songs.

Lüchow’s was referenced onThe Danny Thomas Show,originally titled “Make Room for Daddy”,in Season 6, episode 23 that aired on March 9, 1959 whereFrankie LaineandAnnette Funicelloalso appeared. Danny invited Frankie to potato pancakes at Lüchow’s.

Cuisine[edit]

Lüchow's menu wasGerman-oriented throughout its existence, with dishes includingWiener Schnitzeland variouswild game."KnackwurstandSauerkraut",Bratwurst,red cabbage and beets,Sauerbraten,their still famousPotato pancakes,andpumpernickelbread were perennial staples. Pfannkuchen mit Preiselbeeren (flambéed thin pancakes withlingonberrysauce) andSachertorte,a recipe borrowed from the famousSacher HotelinVienna,were favorites of the dessert selection. Apparently the German orientation was relaxed somewhat in the years after 1923 when August Lüchow died, putting the restaurant under control of his sister's husband Victor Eckstein.[29]Even during August Lüchow's lifetime it was necessary to make compromises: during the First World War anti-German sentiment ran so high that by 1917 he thought it prudent to remove the umlaut over the "u" of Lüchow's in all public occurrences of the name.[9]

Noted guests[edit]

Literature[edit]

Lüchow's appears in many non-fiction and fiction books, includingLa Bonne Table(1964) byLudwig Bemelmans,Looking for Mr. Goodbar(1975) byJudith Rossner,The Anatolian(1982) byElia Kazan,My Life as Author and Editor(1993, posthumous) byH. L. Mencken,Sidewalk Critic(1998, posthumous) byLewis Mumford,andThe Stories of John Cheever(2011) byJohn Cheever.

Mencken wrote, "Nathan and I sawhimfor the last time at lunch at Lüchow's in June 1920. He looked somewhat thin and pasty, but we ascribed his appearance, not to illness, but to the fact that he was drinking tea. Tea in Lüchow's, the citadel of Pilsner! "[75]

References[edit]

Notes

  1. ^Grimes, William (December 3, 2009)"Jan Mitchell, Restaurateur, Dies"The New York Times
  2. ^abcdJackson, Kenneth T. "Luchow's" inJackson, Kenneth T.,ed. (1995).The Encyclopedia of New York City.New Haven:Yale University Press.ISBN0300055366.,p.773
  3. ^abMitchell, p. 25
  4. ^Mitchell, p. 20
  5. ^abFowler, Glenn (March 23, 1982)"Luchow's Moving to Theater District"The New York Times
  6. ^Staff (December 8, 1986)"Foodies Anonymous"New York
  7. ^abcLüchow'sArchivedOctober 6, 2011, at theWayback Machineat the New York Preservation Archive
  8. ^Staff (December 10, 1994)"Fire Guts Old Luchow's Building" (photograph)The New York Times
  9. ^abcdeGrimes, William (November 30, 2009)"Jan Mitchell, Who Put the" ü "Back in Lüchow's, Dies at 96"The New York Times
  10. ^abcMitchell, p. 21
  11. ^Staff (August 22, 1923)"August G. Lüchow, Restaurateur, Dies"The New York Times
  12. ^abcMitchell, p. 24
  13. ^Meyer, John H. (January 28, 2011)"Massapequa Getaway for Luchow Family"ArchivedApril 3, 2012, at theWayback MachineMassapequan Observer
  14. ^abMitchell, p.26
  15. ^Staff (April 18, 1906)"Farewell to Paderewski"The New York Times
  16. ^abcdHuneker, James Gibbons (August 24, 1919)"Musical Memories, Oscar Hammerstein and Dvorak"The New York Times
  17. ^abcdMitchell, p. 27
  18. ^abcdMitchell, p. 23
  19. ^abDana, Robert W. (April 1957)"Luchow's Restaurant Celebrates 75th Anniversary"inTips on TablesAt the bottom of page is a photo of the view from front wall of Cafe (back wall of barroom) all the way to the back of Nebelungen.
  20. ^Staff (July 16, 1910)"Huber's Museum Closes its Doors"The New York Times
  21. ^"DAILY MENU [held by] LUCHOWS PAN-AMERICAN RESTAURANT CO. [at]" PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION, BUFFALO, NY GERMAN VILLAGE "(REST;)".
  22. ^Landgraf, Greg (June 19, 2007)"A Centennial Blog: Meet Me at the Fair"ArchivedOctober 1, 2011, at theWayback MachineAmerican Libraries
  23. ^abMitchell, p. 22
  24. ^Mitchell, p. 12
  25. ^One room was lined with animal heads; another displayed a collection of beer steins.
  26. ^Maeder, Jay (1998)"Plenty: The Fabulous Diamond Jim Brady, 1912"inBig Town Big Time, A New York Epic, 1898–1998,New York: Daily News Books. p.37
  27. ^Staff (April 14, 1917)"Diamond Jim Brady Dies While Asleep"The New York Times
  28. ^Jeffers, Harry Paul (2001)Diamond Jim Brady: Prince of the Gilded Age,New York: Wiley. p.4
  29. ^abMitchell, p. 29
  30. ^Mitchell, p. 30
  31. ^abMitchell, p. 34
  32. ^Staff (June 29, 1979)"Luchow's Restaurant is Sold to Aschkenasy"The New York Times
  33. ^Hammer, Alexander R. (September 29, 1971)"Longchamps to Sell Luchow's and 4 Others for $8-Million"The New York Times
  34. ^"The Riese Organization – Company History".Archived fromthe originalon November 23, 2011.
  35. ^abSheraton, Mimi (November 16, 1979)"Restaurants: Luchow's"The New York Times
  36. ^Haberman, Clyde (March 30, 1982)"Panel Considers Citing Luchow's as a Landmark"The New York Times
  37. ^Fowler, Glenn (March 23, 1982)"Luchow's Moving to Theater District"The New York Times
  38. ^Staff (March 28, 1982)"14th St. Upgrading Dealt Blow by Luchow's Move"The New York Times
  39. ^Krebs, Albin and Thomas, Richard G. Jr. (October 9, 1981)"Notes on People"The New York Times
  40. ^Reif, Rita (October 23, 1981)"Auctions"The New York Times
  41. ^Staff (August 3, 1982)"Topics: Pronouncements: Two Little Dots" (editorial)The New York Times
  42. ^McFaddon, Robert (December 22, 1980)"Two Bombs Go Off in Penn Station..."The New York Times
  43. ^Staff (September 20, 1982)"Nightclubs"New York
  44. ^"Then & Now: From Luchow's German Restaurant to NYU Dorm".August 2, 2023.
  45. ^Anderson, Susan Helen and Dunlap, David W. (August 28, 1985)"New York Day by Day: Demolition Request for Old Luchow's"The New York Times
  46. ^Staff (September 19, 1982)"Owners of Luchow Building Fight Landmark Designation"The New York Times
  47. ^"Lüchow's | The New York Preservation Archive Project".October 6, 2011. Archived fromthe originalon October 6, 2011.RetrievedAugust 7,2023.
  48. ^Staff (January 23, 1997)"N.Y.U. Plans a Revival of Luchow's"The New York Times
  49. ^Mitchell, p. 28
  50. ^Staff (December 31, 1981) "Dining and Dancing Through the Night"The New York Times
  51. ^Mitchell, p.129
  52. ^Staff (August 2, 1978)"A Restaurant Dress List"The New York Times
  53. ^Mitchell, p. 136
  54. ^Staff (December 31, 1981)"Dining and Dancing Through the Night"The New York Times
  55. ^abcdStaff (September 9, 1955) "Hugo Schemke, Waiter at Luchow's, Dies"The New York Times
  56. ^abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzaaabacadaeafagahaiajakalamanaoapaqarasatauavawaxayazbabbMitchell,passim
  57. ^Staff (December 20, 1978) "Cardinal Finds an Ad Personally Indigestible"The New York Times
  58. ^abcdefHaberman, Clyde and Krebs, Albin (November 23, 1978) "Notes on People"The New York Times
  59. ^abcKlemesrud, Judy (November 20, 1981) "The Evening Hours"The New York Times
  60. ^abcdeStaff (November 11, 1965) "Julius Richter, Violinist, Dead; Played for diners at Luchow's"The New York Times
  61. ^abcdDuka, John (November 16, 1980) "Notes on Fashion"The New York Times
  62. ^Grimes, Ellen R. (November 11, 1977) "Now In New York"The New York Times
  63. ^abDu Bois, W. E. B.(1976) "The Correspondence of W. E. B. Du Bois Volume II: Selections, 1934–1944", Herbet Aptheker (ed.) Amherst, Massachusetts:University of Massachusetts Press.p.134
  64. ^Staff (December 16, 1956) "Ernst Seute, Luchow's Official, Is Dead"The New York Times
  65. ^Phillips, McCandlish (October 15, 1956) "Javits Campaigns in Boyhood Area"The New York Times
  66. ^Norwich, William (April 18, 2004)"Style: Gentlemen Prefer Maggie"The New York TimesMagazine
  67. ^abNemy, Enid (October 31, 1979) "It Was Not a Night Meant For Staying Home by the Fire"The New York Times
  68. ^Fabricant, Florence (October 8, 2003)"Food Stuff: LeRoy Neiman Dined Here With Pen and Fork"The New York Times
  69. ^Donavan, Robert J. (April 25, 1965) "Over Nominated, Under Elected, Still a Promising Candidate"The New York Times
  70. ^Berg, Andrew Scott (1978).Max Perkins, Editor of Genius.Dutton.ISBN0525154272.RetrievedMarch 26,2017.
  71. ^Price, Mary and Vincent (1965)A Treasury of Great Recipes,p.237
  72. ^"Limelight Show"(June 26, 1965)
  73. ^Capt. Turner dined in the Nibelungen Room on the eve of theRMS Lusitania's final voyage.Larson, Erik (2015).Dead Wake.p. Lusitania:Menagerie 9.
  74. ^Associated Press(December 9, 1955) "World Concerts Honor Sibelius"The New York Times
  75. ^ Mencken, H. L.(1993).My Life as Author and Editor.New York: Knopf.ISBN0679413154.RetrievedMarch 26,2017.

Bibliography

  • Mitchell, Jan,Lüchow's German Cookbook,Doubleday & Co., Garden City, NY, 1952, 1986

External links[edit]

40°44′2″N73°59′20.5″W/ 40.73389°N 73.989028°W/40.73389; -73.989028

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