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La Trochita

Coordinates:42°57′00″S71°10′59″W/ 42.950°S 71.183°W/-42.950; -71.183
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La Trochita
La Trochitapictured in 2010
Overview
Other name(s)Old Patagonian Express
Native nameViejo Expreso Patagónico
StatusActive
LocalePatagonia,Argentina
Termini
Websitelatrochita.org.ar
Service
SystemInter-city
History
Opened1935;89 years ago(1935)
Technical
Track gauge750 mm(2 ft5+12in)
Route map

La Trochita(official name:Viejo Expreso Patagónico), inEnglishknown as theOld Patagonian Express,is a750 mm(2 ft5+12in)narrow gauge railwayinPatagonia,Argentinausingsteam locomotives.The nicknameLa Trochitameans literally "The little gauge" though it is sometimes translated as "The Little Narrow Gauge" inSpanishwhile "trocha estrecha", "trocha angosta" in Argentina, is often used for a generic description of "narrow gauge."

The Trochita railway is 402 km in length and runs through the foothills of theAndesbetweenEsquelandEl MaiténinChubut ProvinceandIngeniero JacobacciinRío Negro Province,[1]originally it was part ofFerrocarriles Patagónicos,a network of railways in southern Argentina. Nowadays, with its original character largely unchanged, it operates as aheritage railwayand was made internationally famous by the 1978Paul TherouxbookThe Old Patagonian Express,which described it as the railway almost at the end of the world.[2]Theroux had sought to ride trains as far as possible into southern Argentina but did not include in his adventures the several railroads which were further south than Esquel, presumably because they were not considered operational or with sufficient connection to larger lines.

History

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Plans

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Route track elevation

In 1908, theGovernment of Argentinaplanned a network of railways acrossPatagonia.Two main lines would joinSan Carlos de Barilochein the centralAndeswith the sea ports ofSan Antonio Oesteon theAtlanticcoast to the east, andPuerto Deseadoon the coast to the south east. Branches were to be built to connect the mainline withBuenos Aires Lake(connecting atLas Heras) andComodoro Rivadavia(connecting atSarmiento). Colonia 16 de Octubre – the Esquel andTrevelinarea – would be connected via a branch line to Ingeniero Jacobacci. The whole network would connect to Buenos Aires via San Antonio Oeste.

The project ran out of steam following ministerial changes and the start ofWorld War Iwhich affected theeconomy of Argentinaand the input of technology and investment required fromEurope.The northern main line from the coast reached Ingeniero Jacobacci in 1916. 282 km of the southern main line from Deseado to Las Heras, and the 197 km branch line from Comodoro Rivadavia to Sarmiento were laid, but never connected with each other or the northern network. After 1916, the only further work was the completion of the link from Jacobacci to Bariloche, finished in 1934.[3]

Esquel line

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Interior of 1922 coach, with a wood burning furnace

The exception was the Esquel line. After the end of the First World War, narrow gauge track and facilities were plentiful and cheaper, given their extensive use at the front for supplies and troop movement.600 mm(1 ft11+58in)Decauvillerailroads were used extensively inBuenos Aires Provincein rural areas and to carry freight. For passenger services, locomotives for750 mm(2 ft5+12in) track were readily available and it was decided to pursue this cheaper option. In 1921 it was agreed to lay down the Jacobacci-Esquel line, and also to connect it with the existing private1,000 mm(3 ft3+38in) gauge railway in theChubut ValleyfromDolavontoPuerto Madryn.This would be thePatagonian Light Railways Network.

Belgiancoaches and freight wagons were ordered in 1922, plus fifty locomotives fromHenschel & Sohn,aGermancompany in Cassel (today spelt Kassel). Later 25 more locomotives were bought from theBaldwin Locomotive WorksinPhiladelphia,U.S.A.

The first part of the project was to lay a third rail inside the existing tracks at Jacobacci and the Chubut Valley so that they could be used by the narrow gauge vehicles. New tracks were laid to extend the Chubut Valley line fromTrelewtoRawsonat the coast and westwards toLas Plumas.After floods destroyed much of the line in 1931–1932, work began again in 1934 with new plans, with a 105 m-long bridge and a 110 m-long tunnel to be built. 1,000 labourers worked in the harsh Patagonian environment, many later settling.

Inaugural trip to Esquel, on May 25, 1945

Trains began to run on the completed parts of the line in 1935. In 1941 the line reachedEl Maitén,where maintenance facilities were built. The first train to Esquel entered the city on May 25, 1945. After PresidentJuan Perón'snationalisationof the railway network in 1948, theTrochitabecame part ofGeneral Roca Railway.

Until 1950 the line was a freight-only service. The first passenger service launched in 1950 and connected Esquel with Buenos Aires (arriving atConstitución station), changing trains at Jacobacci. Passengers would occupy loose wooden benches around a stove which could be used for light cooking and above all to preparemateand keep warm. The bends of the line in the Andeanfoothillsand the slow speed of the network allowed passengers to walk alongside the train on certain sections along the 14-hour journey.

The service was much used for freight through the 1960s and 1970s, contributing to the development of the area, especially the construction of the dam on theFutaleufú Riverand the growth of El Maitén thanks to the locomotive maintenance operation.

Decline

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In 1961, the line in the lower Chubut valley between Puerto Madryn and Las Plumas was closed, never having been connected with the Esquel or Bariloche lines. In the 1970s the two isolated lines to the south also shut down.

La Trochita also began to decline, due to the improvement of the road network and of trucks and buses, and the difficulties of maintaining a railway so far from the country's capital and the global rail industry. However over the same period, Patagonia had been 'discovered' by tourists and La Trochita was something of abackpackerhighlight. Theroux's book brought it to wider attention and gave the railway a name –The Old Patagonian Express– which highlighted its timeless appeal both to Argentine nostalgics and tourists. In 1991, the railway was filmed for an episode ofNick Lera's World Steam Classics.[4]

Nevertheless, the line was not profitable. Given the communities it served, private investors were not interested in making necessary investment. In 1992, under the liberal economic practices of the central government, it was decided to close the line.[5]However, there was a national and even an international outcry at the decision to close a line which had become emblematic of a bygone age and of that region. The two provincial governments came together to keep the line open.[6]

The Trochita today

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La Trochita running on the sparsely populatedPatagonianregion, 2010

The line is in possession of 22steam locomotives,11Henscheland 11BaldwinMikadotype locomotives, seven of which are currently operable, two Baldwin and three Henschel in theEl MaiténEsquelsection, and 2 Baldwin locomotives in theIngeniero Jacobaccisection. The locomotives are oil fired and have been in continuous service since its introduction. There are no diesel engines in use anywhere on the line. The present rolling stock as the locomotives date from 1922, with the exception of the dining car and some first class carriages that were constructed in 1955.

The train no longer runs between Esquel and El Maitén; instead two special tourist services run (i) between Esquel and the settlement of Nahuel Pan and (ii) between El Maitén and Desvío Thomae.

La Trochita crossing national route 259 in Chubut, 2010

The journey from Esquel to El Maitén took almost seven hours. There is a regular tourist service which offers a return trip to the first station and back which takes about an hour. As of 2010, tickets for the tourist services areARS$150 round-trip, and a discount to $80 for residents of Argentina.

The maintenance of the original 1922 locomotives is increasingly difficult, due to the lack of parts and expertise, and the remoteness of his base in El Maitén. This can cause frequent delays or service shut-downs.

TheGovernment of Argentinadeclared La Trochita as aNational Historic Monumentin 1999.[7]

In 2003, "Friends of La Trochita Association” was created by members mainly from Esquel, El Maitén and Bariloche.

In May 2011, high winds ripped the roof off one car. The roof fell down in between two cars, derailed one which then caused the entire train to derail and roll over. No one was seriously injured and the locomotive and cars were all recovered by June 1, 2011.

In November 2023, an excursion derailed in between Mamuel Choique and Rio Chico. The entire train fell on its side, causing injuries to four of the passengers aboard. A wood stove in one of the cars started a fire, but it was extinguished. The train was bound for Ñorquinco on a chartered run.[8][9]

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See also

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Bibliography

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  • D.S. Purdom,British Steam on the Pampas– Text: English, Mechanical Engineering Publications Ltd, London (1977)
  • Theroux Paul,Old Patagonian Express– Text: English, Houghton Mifflin (1979) -ISBN0-395-27788-4-ISBN978-0-395-27788-1ISBN978-0-395-52105-2
  • Sepiurka Sergio Miglioli,La Trochita– (Bilingual Edition; English/Spanish), Grupo Abierto Communicaciones (2001) -ISBN987-97830-5-0-ISBN978-987-97830-5-4
  • Taylorson Keith,Narrow Gauge Rails to Esquel– Text: English, Plateway Press, 23 Hanover St., Brighton, BN2 2ST, UK (1999)

References

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  1. ^"Old Patagonian Express - La Trochita"
  2. ^PaulTheroux.comArchived2009-09-28 at theWayback Machine,The Old Patagonian Express, accessed 2008-03-26
  3. ^A Fascinating Story in Patagonian LandsArchived2005-08-27 at theWayback Machineaccessed 2008-07-07
  4. ^"World Steam Classics" Main Website
  5. ^New York Times, Published: June 29, 1992,Old Patagonian Express Puff, Puff, Puffs to Its Ends, accessed 2008-06-08
  6. ^www.narrow-gauge.co.uk,The Old Patagonian Express, accessed 2008-06-08
  7. ^"El Kavanagh, entre los protegidos"Archived2009-12-02 at theWayback Machine,Clarín,1999-04-23
  8. ^"U.S. tourists injured in derailment on remote Argentina heritage railway (updated)".Trains News Wire.Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA. November 13, 2023.RetrievedNovember 18,2023.
  9. ^Hooper, Sarah (November 13, 2023)."British man fighting for life after tourist train derails in Argentina".Metro.London, United Kingdom.RetrievedNovember 18,2023.
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42°57′00″S71°10′59″W/ 42.950°S 71.183°W/-42.950; -71.183