Mangfu

Mangfu
A form of mangfu in the Ming dynasty
A court robe with mang (python) pattern in the Qing dynasty, c. 1890s
Chinese name
Chinese	Mãng phục
Literal meaning	Python clothing/ Python robe
Transcriptions Standard Mandarin Hanyu Pinyin Mǎngfú
Mangpao
Chinese	Mãng bào
Literal meaning	Python robe
Transcriptions Standard Mandarin Hanyu Pinyin Mǎngpáo
Huayi
Chinese	Hoa y
Literal meaning	Flower clothing
Transcriptions Standard Mandarin Hanyu Pinyin Huāyī
English name
English	Python robe/Dragon robe

Mangfu(Chinese:Mãng phục;pinyin:mǎngfú;lit.'python clothing/python garment'), also known asmangpao(Chinese:Mãng bào;pinyin:mǎngpáo;lit.'python robe'),huayi(Chinese:Hoa y;pinyin:Huāyī;lit.'flower clothing'), andpython robe,sometimes referred asdragon robealthough they are different garments, in English, is a type ofpaofu,arobe,inhanfu.Themangfufalls under the broad category ofmangyi(Chinese:Mãng y;pinyin:mǎngyī;lit.'python clothes'), where themangfuis considered as being the classic form ofmangyi.Themangfuwas characterized by the use of a python embroidery calledmang(Chinese:Mãng;pinyin:mǎng;lit.'python') although the python embroidery is not apythonsnake as defined in the English dictionary but a four-clawedChinese dragon-like creature.Themangfuwas derived from thelongpao(simplified Chinese:Long bào;traditional Chinese:Long bào;pinyin:lóngpáo;lit.'dragon robe') in order to differentiate monarchs and subjects; i.e. only the Emperor is allowed to wear thelong,five-clawed dragon, while his subjects wearsmang.Themangfuwas worn in theMingandQing dynasties.They had special status among the Chinese court clothing as they were only second to thelongpao.Moreover, their use were restricted, and they were part of a special category of clothing known ascifu(simplified Chinese:Tứ phục;traditional Chinese:Tứ phục;pinyin:cìfú;lit.'bestowed clothing'), which could only be awarded by the Chinese Emperor (or by the Empress Dowager on the behalf of the Emperor) in the Ming and Qing dynasties, becoming "a sign of imperial favour".People who were bestowed withmangfucould not exchange it with or gifted it to other people.They were worn by members of the imperial family below of crown prince, by military and civil officials, and by Official wives.As an official clothing, themangfuwere worn by officials during celebration occasions and ceremonial events.They could also be bestowed by the Emperor to people who performed extraordinary services to the empire as rewards, to the members of theGrand Secretariatand to prominentDaoistpatriarchs, imperial physicians, tributary countries and local chiefs whose loyalty were considered crucial to secure the borders.Themangfuis also used as a form ofxifu,theatrical costume, inChinese opera,where it is typically found in the form of around-necked robe,known asyuanlingpao.In Beijing opera, themangfuused asxifuis known asMang.

Mangembroidery design

See also:Feiyu

A man wearinglongpattern design.

Gao Gong wearing a danmang pattern design

Difference between long and mang decorative designs, Ming dynasty

In ancient China, there is a clear difference between monarchs and subjects; therefore, the Emperor wears thelong,Chinese dragon patterns, on their clothing calledlongpao(Long bào;Long bào;lóngpáo;'dragon robe') while the officials, being the subjects of the Emperor, wear themang(Mãng;mǎng;'python').Themangembroidery is actually an imaginary creature in the form of a four-clawedChinese dragon,which was derived from the design of thelong,the imperial 5-clawed Chinese dragon pattern.

In theMing dynasty,Bian Yong, the Chief Censor of theEmperor Hongzhi,described themangas having"no horns and legs";however, during his time:

the mang robe worn by internal officials (eunuchs) is very similar to the image of the dragon ", therefore not fitting the regulations

Shen Defualso described themangas being similar to thelongin appearance with the number of their claws as the main difference:

The mang robe is a garment with an image close to a dragon, similar to thedragon robeof the top authority (the emperor), except for the deduction of one claw.

After theMing dynasty,it was expressed that along(lit. 'Chinese dragon') would be demoted to amang(lit. 'python') if it lost one of its claw.

Shen Defu also explained that the most valued form ofmangpattern was thezuomang(Chinese:Tọa mãng;lit.'seated python') which a frontal viewmangon the back and front region of the robe; there were other form ofmangpattern such as thedanmang(Chinese:Đan mãng), which faces on the right side.

History

Duke Yanshenwearing amangfuwith a danmang in abuzi,Ming dynasty

In theMing dynasty,themangfuwas a form ofcifualong withfeiyufuanddouniufu;therefore, the right to bestowmangfuwas only reserved to the Emperor who would bestow the robes to those he favoured.According to theMing Shi《Minh sử》, themangfuwas prescribed for certain officials on specific occasions.

WhenEmperor Yonglebecame emperor, he relaxed the clothing regulations for the eunuchs; therefore, the eunuchs around the emperor woreYesa-style robes which were decorated withmangpatterns and were tied with aluandai(lit. 'Luanbelt'), and even the eunuchs who were of high ranks were often found wearingmangfu.However, the wearing ofmangfuby the eunuchs were improper.

According toShen Defu,during the early reign ofZhengtong,themangpaowas bestowed to foreign rulers.In 1447, there was an imperial edict by Emperor Zhengtong which prohibited the production ofmangpatterns along withfeiyuanddouniupatterns by unauthorized people; it was therefore a capital offence for artisans:

There are clothing regulations for both officials and commoners. Now some people have custom-made robes embroidered with the prohibited patterns of four-clawed dragon [i.e. mang], five-clawed dragon [i.e. long], flying fish [i.e.feiyu], and “Big Dipper bull” [i.e. douniu]. Put the artisans to death and send their families to frontier garrisons as soldiers. People who wear them are to be punished without pardon

— Shen Dufu, Wanli yehuo bian [Unofficial Gleanings of the Wanli Era], translated version from the 2019 article "Wearing The Hat Of Loyalty: Imperial Power And Dress Reform In Ming Dynasty China" by Chen Buyun, p. 422

According to theWanli yehuo bian《Vạn lệ dã hoạch biên–lit. 'Miscellaneous notes ofWanli'》by Shen Defu, during this period, eunuchs were parading in the streets of the capital wearingmangfuanddouniufuwhile women (especially wives of the elite class) were wearing embroidered robes with designs, such as theqilin,feiyuandzuomang(Tọa mãng;'seated python') in front of the senior officials.According to Shen Dufu, thesumptuary lawswere being trespassed and the fault was that of the Emperor who was failing at regulating the possession robes adorned with imperial insignia.

During the 16th year ofEmperor Hongzhi(1504), the customs of bestowingmangfuto theGrand Secretariatbegan.

TheJiajing emperoralso bestowedmangfuto prominent Daoist patriarchs several times during his reign.According to theMing shi,in 1530, it was decreed that theHead of thejinyiweihad to wear a red-colouredmangfuorfeiyufuwith awushamao(lit. 'black gauze hat') and a phoenix belt on sacrificial and ceremonial occasions.

In 1538, still under the rule of Emperor Jiajing, gradations ofcifualso stipulated that only ministers from the first to third rank were allowed to wearmangyi,which consisted of themangfu,thefeiyu mangyi,and thedouniu mangyi.Themangpatterns on the clothing insignia were also gradated based on a particular rank; according to Shen Defu, the most valued form ofmangpattern was thezuomang;other form ofmangpattern which existed in his period also included thedanmang(Đan mãng).

In 1578, Great Empress Dowager Li bestowedmangfutoZhang Juzhenon behalf of the Emperor.

During the reign underEmperor Wanli,manymangfuwere bestowed.According toXie Zhaozhein theWu Zazu《Ngũ tạp trở–lit. 'Five assorted offerings'》, more than 10,000 eunuchs were wearingmangfuand jade belts in the Forbidden City.However, themangfudid not become a common form of clothing.

Qing dynasty

Asjifuandchaofu

Main articles:QizhuangandDragon robe

See also:Terlig

Chaofu with horse hoof-shaped cuff

Jifu with horse hoof-shaped cuff

Types of mangfu worn by court officials, Qing dynasty

Themangfucontinued to be worn in theQing dynastyas part of the Qing dynasty official uniform (either as part of thejifuor as part of thechaofu) and continued to be worn by only those who were awarded by the Emperor.

The structure of the Manchumangfuworn in the Qing dynasty differed from those worn in the Ming dynasty as themangfuworn in the Qing dynasty was modified based on the early male clothing of the Manchu, thus retaining the original features while making new changes to the robes; for example, the Manchumangfuhadhorse hoof-shaped cuff.

• 
  Portrait of Yintang (1683–1726)
• 
  Qing courtier
• 
  Portrait of Oboi.
• 
  65th generation ofDuke Yangsheng

Mang aoandMang chu

See also:Traditional Chinese wedding dress

• 
  Wife of the 69th generation of Duke Yansheng, wearing mangaoand skirt

Construction and design

There is also strict regulations on the robes' colour and the numbers ofmangthat were allowed to decorate themangfu:

Characteristics of Courtmangfuin the Qing dynasty

Rank		Number ofmang	Stipulated colour
Crown prince		9	Apricot yellow
Princes			Golden
Civil and military officials	1st rank		Blue and azurite
	2nd rank
	3rd rank
	4th rank	8
	5th rank
	6th rank
	7th rank	5
	8th rank
	9th rank

List of people bestowed withmangfu

• Liu Jian ( lưu kiện ) (1433–1526), Grand Secretary from 1492 to 1513, was bestowed with a redmangfu.
• Li Dongyang(1447–1516), Grand Secretary from 1494 to 1513, was bestowed with a redmangfu.
• Xie Qian (1450–1531), Grand Secretary from 1495 to 1506 and from 1527 to 1528, was bestowed with a redmangfu.
• Shao Yuanjie (1450–1531), a Daoist patriarch, was bestowed amangfuwith a jade belt by Emperor Jiajing in 1536.
• Zhang Juzhen(1525–1582), a Ming dynasty imperial tutor and senior grand secretary; themangfuwere also bestowed to Zhang Juzhen's parents as a symbol of extreme favour.

Theatrical costumes

Main article:Chinese opera costume

A red theatricalmangfuused asxifuinCantonese opera

Thexifu,Chinese opera costumes,were made based on the clothing style of theMing dynastywhile also absorbing clothing features of theSong,Yuan,andQing dynasties.On stage, the theatricalmangfuis typically in the appearance of ayuanlingpao.

InChinese opera,the theatricalmangfuis the highest of formal, ceremonial robe worn by performers in the roles of emperors, princes, officials (ministers for specific occasions, such as court audience), and generals.

The theatricalmangfuhas a male and female version; themangfupatterns on the robes vary and can be found in:mangmedallions, front-viewedmangand flying dragon.

When decorated with flying dragon patterns, the robe is typically also decorated with patterns of waves and mountain peaks.There is also strict regulations on the colours used in the theatricalmangfu;the colours are divided into "upper five colours" and "lower five colours",minghuang(bright yellow) colour is exclusively reserved for imperial usage.Other colours included: red.

In Beijing opera

InBeijing opera,themangfuxifuis known asMang.TheMangis used to represent the emperor have a dragon with an open mouth, while the dragon used on theMangof the ministers and generals have their mouth closed.The dragons looked bold and mighty when used on theMangof martial officials but gentle and quiet when used in theMangof civil officials.There is also other kind ofMangwhich are specially made for female actresses, laodan, and palace eunuchs.

The colours used in theMangalso have clear symbolism: red means majestic and noble; green means mighty and bold; white represents handsome young people; black is used to represent people who are upright and unconstrained.

Subtypes

• Jianmang(lit. 'Arrow python robe') – Amangfuin the style of ayuanlingpaofor the role of Emperor Zhu Di of Ming invented byMa Lianliang;it is the combination of an arrow robe and a python robe.

Depictions in entertainment media and literature

• Chinese opera
• Jin Ping Mei

Similar clothing

• Jisün
• Terlig
• Yesa
• Feiyufu
• Douniufu
• Dragon robe

See also

• Chinese ornamental gold silk
• Hanfu
• List of hanfu