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Coordinates:45°31′53″N122°40′57″W/ 45.5314°N 122.6826°W/45.5314; -122.6826
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Metrovino
Photograph of the exterior of a building
Exterior ofThe Fields Bar and Grill(pictured in 2023), which operates in the space previously occupied by Metrovino, innorthwest Portland'sPearl District
Map
Restaurantinformation
Established2009(2009)
ClosedSeptember 2013(2013-09)
Owner(s)Todd Steele
Manager(s)Todd Steele
Head chef
  • Greg Denton (2009–2012)
  • Victor Deras (2012)
  • Dustin See (2012–2013)
ChefGabrielle Quiñonez Denton (2009–2012)
Food typePacific Northwest
Street address1139 Northwest 11th Avenue
CityPortland
CountyMultnomah
StateOregon
Postal/ZIP Code97209
CountryUnited States
Coordinates45°31′53″N122°40′57″W/ 45.5314°N 122.6826°W/45.5314; -122.6826

Metrovinowas a restaurant inPortland, Oregon,in the United States. It opened innorthwest Portland'sPearl Districtin 2009, with Greg Denton asexecutive chef.Todd Steele and his mother were co-owners. Other chefs included Denton's wife Gabrielle Quiñonez Denton and later Victor Deras and Dustin See, after the Dentons left in 2012. In 2011, Metrovino was used as afilming locationfor the television seriesLeverage.The restaurant closed in September 2013 and was replaced byThe Fields Bar and Grill.

Description

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The upscale[1]restaurant and wine bar Metrovino operated innorthwest Portland'sPearl District,along the 11th Avenue streetcar line.[2]It had a temperature-controlled cabinet system and views ofTanner Springs Park.[3][4][5]Metrovino servedFrench-inspiredPacific Northwest cuisine.[3]

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The menu includedchowderwith fish and flour,[6]tatakiof yellowtail with cucumber andyuzu,andtroutwith spinach and potatopuréeandlobster sauce.Metrovino also served:raclette,sopressata,and boiled potatoes; slow-roasted pork shoulder withchanterelles,heirloom beans,chimichurri,andbroccolini;andFrench onion soupwith cabbage, pork cheeks, andgruyèrecheese.[3]Cheese plates, duckconfit,foie gras,souffléswith whitecheddar,and a sunny-sidequail eggonpork bellywere also available.[1]

Thebrunchmenu includedBelgian waffles,biscuits and gravy,chicken-fried quail and waffles,a version ofeggs Benedictwith duckrillette,and Sicilian sausage withpolentaand mushrooms. The restaurant also served a burger, tartines such asprosciuttoandtuna,[7]and a dish with grilled leg of lambmarinatedwith rosemary and garlic, served withspätzleand morel mushrooms, English peas,parsley,butter, parsley oil, and lamb jus.[8]

Metrovino had approximately one hundred wine options,[9]includingchampagnesas well asred,sparkling,andwhite winesfrom around the world.[1]The restaurant also servedcocktails,including: the Averna stout flip (Italian liqueur, Young's chocolatestout,whole egg); the seigle sour,[10]which had spiced plantain syrup; and the Mexican train, which hadmezcaland molebitters.[11]Among drinks on the brunch menu was the Sherry Cobbler, which had Manzanillasherry,orange,nutmeg,and sugar.[12]

History

[edit]

Co-owners Todd Steele and his mother opened Metrovino in 2009, with Greg Denton as theexecutive chef.Steele, who was also Metrovino's general manager and wine director,[9]wanted to operate along the streetcar line. He recalled, "I would not have picked this spot if it weren't for the streetcar, and my business has certainly benefited from our location. Streetcars are also a romantic way to travel, and they are fun to watch from inside Metrovino."[2]

In 2010, Metrovino andBethel Heights Vineyardpartnered for the Winemaker Dinners series organized by the Classic Wines Auction, an annual charity event.[13]Additionally, Denton and Steele were nominated in the Restaurant of the Year category of the annualEater Awardsand attended the ceremony in New York City.[14]

In March 2011, Metrovino hosted a weekendhappy hourmenu in honor of theJames Beard Foundation Awardsannouncements. On the menu was a "meat donut", adoughnutwithbraisedbeef and marrow.[15]Additionally, the restaurant was afilming locationfor the television seriesLeverage.According toByron BeckofEater Portland,Metrovino was used "as a location one of the characters visits on the show, including exterior and interior shots".[16]

As of January 2013, anApple Mapserror was directing some customers to an incorrect address insouthwest Portland.According toEater Portland,the error resulted in "several phone calls per night from diners looking for clarification — and perhaps as much as $50,000 in lost revenue since the app launched last September". Aproblem solvingreporter fromKATUwas reportedly unable to acquire a comment fromApple Inc.[17]Metrovino celebrated a fourth anniversary in May.[18]Steele suspended operations in September 2013.[19][20]The Fields Bar and Grillbegan operating in the space in 2014.[21]

Bartenders

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Kyle Webster was a mixologist until late 2010, when he left to work atSt. Jack.Webster was replaced by bartender Jacob Grier,[22]who implemented a new cocktail program in February 2011. Described byEater Portlandas a "beer-in-cocktails advocate", Grier debuted eleven new cocktails, including the Averna stout flip, the seigle sour, and the Mexican train.[11]

In January 2012,Eater Portlandcredited Grier for the "bone luge", described as "the act of funneling a shot of liquor down a split marrow bone".[23][24]Grier had come up with the concept in 2010, after drinkingtequilathrough a cow'sfemuratLaurelhurst Market.Within a year, the "bone luge" was added to Metrovino's menu.[25]Covering the "off-the-menu specials" made available by local restaurants in conjunction withFeast Portlandin 2012, which included the "bone luge",Eater Portlandcalled Metrovino the "most Portland-y: Pearl District spot".[26]After Metrovino closed, Grier worked at Hop & Vine and wrote acookbook.[27]

Chefs

[edit]

In 2011, Denton hosted a one-weekend-only dinner menu featuring roast suckling pigporchettaand roasted vegetables with aMeyer lemonvinaigretteand rosemary polentacroutons,as well as tête de cochon.[28]He also competed on the restaurant's behalf in Wild About Game,[29]an annualcook-offat Resort on the Mountain inWelches.Eater Portlandsaid Denton "took home the top prize for his s'more-inspired duck dish, which featured... duck, charred wrapped giblet sausage, toasted foie gras marshmallow whip, cocoa sauce, graham cracker struesel, and campfire smoke (presented to the judges under a glass bowl)".[30]The winng food was hosted at Metrovino for one weekend only in September.[31]

In late 2011, he and his spouse Gabrielle Quiñonez Denton, who was also a chef at Metrovino,[32]announced plans to leave and startOx.[33][34]The couple continued working in Metrovino's kitchen until January 31, 2012.[35][36]In January, Metrovino announced sous chef Victor Deras would become the head chef.[36][37]Deras intended to replace Sunday's dinner with brunch,[38]but he was replaced by sous chef Dustin See in March. See had joined Metrovino in 2010 and worked his way from line cook to sous chef. He took over the new brunch menu,[39]which launched in April 2012.[7]

In addition to adding the grilled leg of lamb dish,[8]See hosted aSpanish-inspired dinner paired with select sherries and a four-course 1980s-themed dinner in which he offered "interpretations of '80s-era recipes" fromDaniel Boulud,Hubert Keller,andMarco Pierre White,also highlighting cellared wines from the decade.[40][41]

Reception

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In 2010,Portland Monthly'sMike Thelin wrote, "True to the spirit of localism, Denton's food celebrates Northwest ingredients, but his flair for the unexpected sets Metrovino apart from many of its peers in the Portland culinary scene."[3]Metrovino's burger was declared the city's best in a 2010 "burger survey" conducted byWillamette Week.[42]Eater Portlandincluded the Sherry Cobbler in a 2012 overview of the city's best "non-Bloodybrunch cocktails ".[12]

In 2013, David Sarasohn ofThe Oregoniangave Metrovino a rating of 'B+'.[1]He complimented the "pungent, intricate dishes designed to delve into wine", such as the charcuterie board and wagyu carpaccio, among other "unexpected" options.[43]Andy Kryza included Metrovino inThrillist's2023 overview of Portland's bestwings,writing: "The Pearl's swank Metrovino puts its spin on the popular pub food at their bar in the form of chicken wing confit, which's actually just a very fancy way to say the wonderfully salty, sauce-less wings are super crunchy on the outside and impossibly tender on the inside".[44]After Metrovino's closure, the magazineOregon Businesscalled the restaurant "beloved".[45]

See also

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References

[edit]
  1. ^abcdBallantyne, Ross (2017-10-05)."Metrovino".Thrillist.Archivedfrom the original on 2020-09-20.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  2. ^ab"Can streetcars save America's cities?".CNN.Archivedfrom the original on 2022-06-25.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  3. ^abcd"Metrovino".Portland Monthly.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-04-02.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  4. ^Gerald, Paul (2012-11-06).Peaceful Places: Portland: 103 Tranquil Sites in the Rose City and Beyond.Menasha Ridge Press.ISBN978-0-89732-938-5.
  5. ^"Dish Review".Willamette Week.2015-09-24.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  6. ^"Ox's Clam Chowder With Bone Marrow: 12 Wonders of Portland Food".Willamette Week.2015-10-28.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-05-05.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  7. ^abDeJesus, Erin (2012-03-28)."Metrovino Brunch; Jade's New Burger; Denver FOTM".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-22.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  8. ^abDeJesus, Erin (2012-06-19)."Metrovino's Dustin See Breaks a Leg (of Lamb)".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-02-21.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  9. ^abBeck, Byron (2011-12-14)."Metrovino's Todd Steele Cools Down at Lake O's Kurata".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-07.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  10. ^"Metrovino's New 'Tails".Thrillist.2017-10-05.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  11. ^abDeJesus, Erin (2011-02-14)."MenuWatch".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-04.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  12. ^ab"A Guide to Portland's Best Non-Bloody Brunch Cocktails".Eater Portland.2012-11-30.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-05.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  13. ^DeJesus, Erin (2010-10-27)."Top Chefs and Vintners Pair for Classic Wines Auction Dinners".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-28.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  14. ^DeJesus, Erin (2010-11-09)."Lightner, Denton, Thelin Represent at Eater Awards in NYC".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-03.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  15. ^DeJesus, Erin (2011-03-18)."James Beard in the House!: Your Weekend Guide to Beard".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-25.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  16. ^Beck, Byron (2011-03-21)."MetroVino Makes A Scene In TNT's Hit Show Leverage".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-25.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  17. ^DeJesus, Erin (2013-01-23)."Little Big Burger Waterfront; More Micro-Restaurants".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-03.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  18. ^DeJesus, Erin (2013-05-06)."Water Avenue Coffee Goes Mobile; PDX Bubbles Week".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2015-09-23.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  19. ^DeJesus, Erin (2013-09-24)."Pearl District's Metrovino Has 'Suspended Operations'".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-30.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  20. ^Russell, Michael (2013-09-24)."Pearl District's Metrovino restaurant closes".The Oregonian.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  21. ^DeJesus, Erin (2014-04-10)."The Fields Sports Bar, Midpoint, MORE Now Open".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2021-09-04.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  22. ^DeJesus, Erin (2012-10-25)."Magic Man".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-02-21.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  23. ^DeJesus, Erin (2012-01-13)."The" Bone Luge "Is a Thing".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-28.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  24. ^Friedland, Josh (2015-11-03).Eatymology: The Dictionary of Modern Gastronomy.Sourcebooks, Inc.ISBN978-1-4926-2626-8.
  25. ^"Marrow Minded".Portland Monthly.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-04-01.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  26. ^DeJesus, Erin (2012-09-19)."Bone Luge Deal; Free Breakfast at Tilt; New New Seasons".Eater Portland.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  27. ^DeJesus, Erin (2013-12-05)."Book Club".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-01.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  28. ^DeJesus, Erin (2011-04-08)."MenuWatch".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-03-04.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  29. ^"Chef Jason Wilson of Miller's Guild on Knife Fight | Seattle Restaurants".Seattle Metropolitan.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  30. ^DeJesus, Erin (2011-09-19)."Metrovino's Greg Denton Wins Wild About Game 2011".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-03.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  31. ^DeJesus, Erin (2011-09-30)."Metrovino's S'More; Shigezo's Cart; H5O's Stunt Pour".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-01.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  32. ^Sawyer, Adam (2018-10-01).Unique Eats and Eateries of Portland, Oregon.Reedy Press LLC.ISBN978-1-68106-186-3.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  33. ^Russell, Michael (2011-12-09)."Greg Denton, Gabrielle Quinonez, leaving Metrovino to open Ox Restaurant in Northeast Portland".The Oregonian.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  34. ^"Greg Denton Leaving Metrovino".Portland Monthly.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  35. ^DeJesus, Erin (2011-12-09)."Greg Denton Leaving Metrovino, Opening OX Restaurant".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-05.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  36. ^abDeJesus, Erin (2012-01-30)."New Metrovino Chef Victor Deras On His New(ish) Gig".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-10.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  37. ^Russell, Michael (2012-01-28)."Metrovino owner Todd Steele announces new chef Victor Deras".The Oregonian.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-02-07.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  38. ^DeJesus, Erin (2012-03-09)."MenuWatch".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-23.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  39. ^DeJesus, Erin (2012-03-13)."Victor Deras Out at Metrovino; Dustin See Named Chef".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-27.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  40. ^"Desai at Simpatica; Events at Wildwood, Metrovino, Etc".Eater Portland.2012-08-07.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-01.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  41. ^"Montaribaldi at Tabla, '80s Night at Metrovino, MORE".Eater Portland.2013-03-12.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-09-25.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  42. ^Beck, Byron (2011-04-27)."Greg Denton: Nothing Finer Than Burger from Fuller's Diner".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-10-01.Retrieved2024-06-18.
  43. ^DeJesus, Erin (2013-01-15)."Sarasohn: 'Gems' at Metrovino; Trigger's Fajita Futures".Eater Portland.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-01.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  44. ^Kryza, Andy (2013-08-23)."These are Portland's best wings".Thrillist.Archivedfrom the original on 2023-12-10.Retrieved2024-06-19.
  45. ^"How can Portland sustain so many new restaurants?".Oregon Business.2014-01-22.Archivedfrom the original on 2024-06-19.Retrieved2024-06-19.
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