Rayadillo

Spanish officer wearing the summerrayadillouniform during the 1909Second Melillan campaign

Rayadillois ablue-and-whitestripedcottonor flannel material that was used to make themilitary uniformsworn bySpanish colonial soldiersfrom the mid 19th century until the early 20th century. It was commonly worn by soldiers posted in overseasSpanish tropical coloniesand later,Spanish MoroccoandSpanish Guinea.

Use

It became popular after being worn during theSpanish–American War,and was later adopted by thePhilippine Army.It also served as the summer uniform of the regular army in Spain until replaced by khaki drill in 1914.

Appearance

The termrayadilloisSpanish,which translates to "striped material". In the mid-19th century, this material was referred to as being ofhilo listado azure,or "blue striped thread". It was known asdril azul rayadoor "blue stripeddrill"by the end of the century. Early examples of the fabric seemed to have had light blue stripes which were widely separated, while surviving examples of uniform jackets and trousers from the 1890s have thinner stripes of a darker blue, known during that period asmil rayas– literally, "a thousand stripes". Seen from a distance,rayadillolooked either very light blue or blue-gray.The garments were known to theBritishcommentators as "pyjamas", due to a fancied resemblance to striped sleeping garments,

Philippines

An early rayadillo guayabera of thePhilippine Army

TheRevolutionary Armyof theFirst Philippine RepublicunderEmilio Aguinaldoalso employed the same fabric in their military uniforms during the later years of thePhilippine Revolutionand thePhilippine–American War.

Along withpith helmets,which were also first worn by the Spanish inSoutheast Asia,therayadillouniform became strongly associated withImperialismand was a symbol of colonial rule.In the Philippines, the Rayadillo uniform is synonymous with the First Republic and the Philippine American War (1899-1902).

In more recent times,rayadillopatterns have made a reappearance in the world of clothing andtailoringin general, and have been popularised in everyday garments, specially in trousers, also known asmil rayas.

Rayadillomilitary uniforms

Military uniforms made out of therayadillomaterial were of a number of patterns:

Spanish Empire

A 'siroquera' in rayadillo pattern used by the Spanish forces in Morocco c1910

Guerrera

Theguerrera,or campaign jacket worn with therayadillouniform was made of deep blueflanneland had two breast pockets with flaps. It was fastened by a single row of seven metal buttons. The jacket was patterned on thetunicofficially prescribed for general wear by the infantry of the Spanish Peninsular Army on August 18, 1886.Theguerrerawas worn by Spanish troops stationed in thePhilippines,CubaandPuerto Rico.The Philippine-issuerayadillopatternedguerrerawas distinguishable from those issued in Cuba and Puerto Rico by astanding collarand concealed button fly front. A single hook and eye is found at the bottom of the collar opening. This uniform was issued in 1891 until 1898.

Guayabera

Main article:Guayabera

Theguayaberawas patterned on a traditional Cuban work jacket. The tunic featurespleatsdown the front and center back and four large cargopocketson the skirt. It may or may not have a concealed button fly front. Bone is the preferred material for buttons; those on the shoulder strap and pockets are sometimes covered inrayadillofabric. A thin white cotton lining is found in the interior shoulder area. Evidence culled from period photographs indicate these uniforms being issued about 1896 until 1898.

Philippine Republic

Manuel L. Quezon,2nd President of the Philippines wearing his Mambisa Rayadillo as a Major in the Philippine Republican Army

The Filipinomambisamilitary tunic was instituted by what would eventually become thePhilippine Republicduring theTejeros Convention.It had two broad bands of matching fabric spanning the frontal area from the shoulders down to the hem. These concealed horizontal breast pockets which had vertical pocket flaps with buttons of eitherbrassor covered withrayadillofabric. The brass buttons were either unadorned or decorated with a "mythological sun" motif. Officers' tunics had slits in the skirt's side that allowed ahand gunholsterand a sword to be attached to a belt worn under the tunic.Infantryofficers wore blue pants with two white stripes down the sides, whileCavalryofficers wore red trousers with black stripes.

The artistJuan Lunais credited with this design.His brother, generalAntonio Lunacommissioned him with the task.Juan Luna also designed the collar insignia for the uniforms, distinguishing between the services;Infantry,Cavalry,Artillery,Sappersand medical personnel.At least one researcher has postulated that Juan Luna may have patterned the tunic after theEnglishNorfolk jacket,since the Filipino version is not a copy of any Spanish-pattern uniform. That Emilio Aguinaldo and his comrades, during their exile inHong Kong,had uniforms made ofrayadilloin this popular sporting pattern is another probable origin.

Later use

Soldiers wearingrayadillouniforms andpith helmetsinSpanish North Africa,1909

The rayadillo clothing continued to be worn extensively by theSpanish Armyinto the early 20th century. It was worn on active service inMoroccountil 1911, whenkhakidrill was adopted. By now an essentially white uniform with fine blue stripes, it comprised the summer dress (de verano) for all branches of the Peninsular (mainland Spain) Army until 1914.

In the Philippines, Mambisa-style 'rayadillo' uniforms were worn mostly by Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and of the Philippine–American War during the American period till the early years of the Republic as part of their heritage. Meanwhile,rayadillo-inspired uniforms are used by theArmed Forces of the Philippinesas part of their ceremonial uniforms during national occasions, most notablyPhilippine Independence day.In particular the Philippine Army's Escort and Security Battalion uses it as the primary full dress uniform (in tandem with the modern full dress), with other ranks wearing straw hats and officers the pith helmet. In 2005, Gen.Cardozo M. Luna,Commandantof thePhilippine Military Academyordered the revival of therayadillomaterial in thecadets'dress uniform,discarding theUnited States Military Academy-inspired dress uniform long used in the PMA.Rayadillo-styled uniforms are worn by personnel of the inter-servicePresidential Security Group. Historical reenactors all around the world still use the uniform in order to portray units that served in the Philippines, Cuba and Puerto Rico.

See also

• Pith helmet
• Burlap
• Drill (fabric)
• Serge
• Twill

External links

• Images of Filipino Republican Armyrayadillotunics