Roger Vivier
Roger Vivier | |
|---|---|
| Born | Roger Vivier 13 November 1907 |
| Died | 2 October 1998(aged 90) |
| Employer(s) | Christian Dior SE,Yves Saint Laurent |
| Known for | Designing forQueen Elizabeth IIfor herCoronation |
Roger Henri Vivier(13 November 1907 – 2 October 1998)[1]was a Frenchfashion designerwho specialized in shoes. He is best known for creating the modern daystiletto heeland for placing a chrome-plated buckle on an elegant black pump, which became a must-have fashion statement for many celebrities and stars in the 50s and 60s.[2][3][4]His namesake label isRoger Vivier (brand).
Early life and education
[edit]Orphaned at the age of nine, Vivier studied sculpture at theÉcole des Beaux-Artsin Paris and his compositions exhibited the concern for form and texture characteristic of a sculptor.[5]
Career
[edit]Vivier has been called the "Fragonardof the shoe "and his shoes" theFabergéof Footwear "[6]by numbers of critics. He designed extravagant, richly decorated shoes that he described as sculptures.
The designer became widely known in 1937 thanks to the creation of wedge soles, notably worn byMarlene Dietrich.During the Second World War, while exiled in New York, he made hats. In 1954, after he had returned to France he created what we now think of as the modern stiletto heel.[7]Stiletto heels, the very thin high heel, were invented in the late 19th century, as numerous fetish drawings attest, but Vivier is known for reviving and developing this opulent style by using a thin rod of steel.
Ava Gardner,Gloria GuinnessandThe Beatleswere all Vivier customers, and he designed shoes forQueen Elizabeth IIfor herCoronationin 1953.[8]
Vivier designed shoes for the house ofChristian Diorfrom 1953 to 1963. In addition to the stiletto heel, he also experimented with other shapes, including the comma (inventing the “virgule” heel). He used silk, pearls, beads, lace,appliquéand jewels to create unique decorations for his shoes.
In the 1960s, Vivier also designed silk-satinknee-highbootsoutlined in jewels, and thigh-high evening boots in a black elastic knit with beads. Perhaps his best known boot design of the decade was the low-heeled, thigh-high, black crocodile boot he produced forYves Saint Laurent's fall 1963 collection, paired with aSpace Age-looking, all-black Saint Laurent ensemble of tights, suede jerkin, short ciré jacket, and helmet-like visored cap and hood.[9]The boots were a variation of a pair Vivier had designed for aRudolph Nureyevperformance ofSwan Lake.[10]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^Enid Nemy(8 October 1998)."Roger Vivier Is Dead at 90; Raised Heels to New Heights".The New York Times.p. B 11.Retrieved18 November2020.
- ^"The Ultimate French Girl Shoe Turns 55".British Vogue.5 May 2020.Retrieved14 March2024.
- ^Ago, Lndesta120282in #fashion • 6 Years (31 January 2018)."Roger Vivier - Stiletto heels".Steemit.Retrieved14 March2024.
{{cite web}}:CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) - ^Amazon.com: Roger Vivier (Memoire): Books: Colombe Pringle
- ^Museum, FIDM (14 July 2015)."Vivier's" Virgule "".FIDM Museum.Retrieved14 March2024.
- ^Hilary Rose (27 September 2007)."Ahead of the curve".The Times.UK.Retrieved23 October2009.
- ^Meredith Paslawsky (November 2008)."Italian Fashion: The History of High Heels".Life in Italy.Retrieved23 October2009.
- ^Hannah Shakir (October 2009)."Vivier la Reine!".Glass Magazine.Archived fromthe originalon 17 July 2011.Retrieved23 October2009.
- ^Peake, Andy (2018). "Chapeau Melon et Bottes de Cuir".Made for Walking.Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Fashion Press. p. 57.ISBN978-0-7643-5499-1.
Yves Saint Laurent's fall...1963...visored caps, black leather jerkins, and Roger Vivier's towering cuissardes in black crocodile...gave what [theDaily Mail's Iris] Ashley called 'a real space girl effect...'
- ^Peake, Andy (2018). "Chapeau Melon et Bottes de Cuir".Made for Walking.Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Fashion Press. p. 57.ISBN978-0-7643-5499-1.
Vivier had originally designed the boots for Rudolph Nureyev's performance as the prince inSwan Lake.
External links
[edit]- Roger VivieratFMD
- "Viva Vivier".Sutton's Law.7 May 2012.Retrieved7 May2012.
- Official website
- "Roger Vivier – Shoes".Victoria and Albert Museum.Retrieved13 November2007.
- "Pair of evening shoes, given by Mrs Loel Guinness".Victoria and Albert Museum.Retrieved29 July2011.
- "Pair of evening shoes, given by Princess Stanislaus Radziwill".Victoria and Albert Museum.22 January 1961.Retrieved29 July2011.
- Exhibition (2014) in Germany(Deutsches Ledermuseum)
- Kenneth Jay Lane collection of Roger Vivier designs, 1956–1961from The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library at the Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
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