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Eau de toilette

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Bottles of eau de toilette

Eau de toilette(French:[od(ə)twalɛt],meaning "grooming water" )[n 1]is a lightly scented perfume.[2]It is also referred to asaromatic watersand has a high alcohol content.[3]It is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving.[4]It is traditionally composed of alcohol and variousvolatile oils.[5]Traditionally these products were named after a principal ingredient; some being geranium water, lavender water, lilac water, violet water, spirit of myrcia and 'eau de Bretfeld'.[6]Because of this, eau de toilette was sometimes referred to as "toilet water".[7]

In modern perfumery, eau de toilette has less concentrated fragrance thanperfume(eau de parfum) and more thancologne(eau de Cologne).[8][9]

Types

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Perfume formulas 1910

Eau de toilette is a weaker concentration of fragrance than perfume.[10][11]The concentration of aromatic ingredients is typically as follows (ascending concentration):

  • Splash andafter shave:1–3%aromatic compounds
  • Eau de Cologne(EdC): Citrus type perfumes with about 2–6% perfume concentrate aromatic compounds[12]
  • Eau de toilette (EdT): 5–15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds
  • Eau de parfum (EdP), parfum de toilette (PdT): 10–20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds. Sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millésime".
  • Perfume extract: 15–40% (IFRA:typical 20%) aromatic compounds

Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. Perfume has a mixture of about 10–20% perfume oils mixed with alcohol (acting as a diffusing agent delivering the fragrant odor) and a trace of water. Colognes have about 3–5% perfume oil mixed with 80–90% alcohol with about 5–15% water in the mix. Originally,eau de colognewas a mixture of citrus oils from such fruits as lemons, oranges, tangerines, limes, and grapefruits. These were combined with such substances as lavender andneroli(orange-flower oil). Eau de toilette has the least amount of perfume oil mixture among the three main liquid "perfumery" categories. It has only about 2–8% of some type of perfume oil and 60–80% alcohol dispersent with water making up the difference.[13][14]Eau de toilettes are a less concentrated form of these above types of alcohol-based perfumes.[15][16]Traditionally cologne is usually made of citrus oils and fragrances, while eau de toilettes are not limited to this specification.[17][18]

History

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Hungarian eau de toilette, an alcohol based perfume that is the predecessor of eau de cologne, was first produced in the fourteenth century, supposedly by a Hungarian man forQueen Elisabeth of Hungary.[19][20]This was called "eau de la reine de hongrie" orHungary Water,and contained the herbrosemary,which allowed the scent to evaporate slowly on the skin.[21][22]However, some early scientists, includingJohann Beckmann,doubt that it was created for the Queen of Hungary.[citation needed]

The King of FranceLouis XIV(1638–1715) used a concoction of scents called "heavenly water" to perfume his shirts; It consisted ofaloewood,musk,orange flower,rose waterand otherspices.[23]

Some eau de toilette were once considered restorative skin toners with medical benefits.[24][25][26]The journalMedical Recordreported in 1905 that a toilet water spray restores energies lost in business, social, and domestic situations.[27][28]During the fourteenth through sixteenth centuries a type of eau de toilette called "plague waters" was supposed to drive away thebubonic plague.[29][30]

Varieties

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  • Carmelite Water– a water of lemon balm, orange flower, angelica root, and spices prepared forCharles V of France,first made in 1379 by the nuns of aCarmeliteabbey.[31][32][33][34]
  • Carnation Toilet Water – extract of Jasmine 2.5 pints, extract of Orange Flower 2.5 pints, extract of Rose 5 pints, tincture of Vanilla 20 ounces, Oil of Pink (synthetic) 2 ounces.[35]
  • Creole Toilet Water – to 6.75 ounces of orris root cut in small pieces put 1.5 pint of French brandy. Allow this mix to stand for 2 weeks, stirring frequently. Then filter the mix and add 3 pints of French brandy and 3 drops of oil of orange blossoms. Add 0.75 fluid ounce of oil of geranium. Distill and add a little coumarin essence.[36]
  • Eau de lavand ambre – a favorite with Spanish women who use it in their hair as well as on the skin after bathing.[37]
  • Florida Water– based on the nineteenth-century formula for a commercially prepared toilet water that mixes floral essential oils.[38]
  • Geranium Toilet Water – oil of rose geranium, 2 ounces; tincture of orris root, 2 ounces; tincture of musk, 1 drop; rose water, 8 ounces: alcohol, 4 pints.[36]
  • Heliotrope Toilet Water – heliotropine, 2 drops;rose oil,15minims;bergamot oil,a half drop; neroli oil, 5 minims; alcohol, 10 ounces; water, 6 ounces.[39]
  • Honey water[14]– an old-time English toilet water. TheBritish Pharmaceutical Codexgives the formula.[40]
  • Jasmine toilet water – made with spirits of cologne, jasmine, and alcohol.[41]
  • Kananga Water– is a "holy water" used for purification in revival ceremonies.[42]
  • Lavender water[14][43]– a formula called "upper Ten" consists of 1 fluid ounce of oil of lavender, 8 fluid ounces of deodorized alcohol, 3 fluid ounces of rose water, and 80 grains of carbonate of magnesia.[44]
  • Nosegay– distilled honey water with cloves, lavender and neroli.[45]
  • Oriental Toilet Water – an extensive list of ingredients is given in the Useful and Practical Notes section of National Druggist.[46]
  • Rose water toilet water – extract of rose 1 pint, of tuberose 1 pint, of cassia 1 pint, of jasmine 4 ounces, tincture of civet 3 ounces. Popular in the Middle East especially Egypt and called 'maward'.[47]
  • Viennese Cosmetic Toilet Water – bruised almonds, 15 parts; water of orange flower, 62 parts; water of roses, 62 parts. Rub up the almonds with the waters, allow to stand. Later add borate of soda, 1 part; spirit of benzoin, 2 parts. Dissolve.[36]
  • White Rose Toilet Water – one ounce of triple extract of white rose, 3 drops of oil of rose, 3 drops of oil of rose geranium, 26 ounces of cologne spirits, and 6 ounces of hot water.[44]
  • Hugh C. Muldoonin submitted various toilet water formulas he called "Own-make Toilet Specialties" to theBulletin Of Pharmacyin 1917.[48]

See also

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Footnotes

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  1. ^In this context, "toilette" / "toilet" has its older meaning ofpersonal grooming;the name predatesthe modern sense of "toilet",which was originallyeuphemistic.[1]

References

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Sources

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  • Beckmann, Johann,A History of Inventions and Discoveries: In Four Volumes 2,1817
  • Baker, William Henry,A dictionary of men's wear...,W. H. Baker, 1908
  • Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, Vol. 61, No. 11, ISSN 0405-668X, Published by Active Interest Media, Inc.
  • Booth, Nancy M.,Perfumes, splashes & colognes: discovering & crafting your personal fragrances,Storey Publishing, 1997,ISBN0-88266-985-0
  • Bulletin of pharmacy,Volume 36, E.G. Swift, 1922
  • Beauty—its attainment and preservation,Butterick Pub. Co., Ltd., 1892
  • Consumer reports,Volumes 25–26,Consumers Unionof United States, 1960
  • Cox, Nancy C.,Perceptions of retailing in early modern England,Ashgate Publishing, Ltd., 2007,ISBN0-7546-3771-9
  • Cristiani, Richard S.,Perfumery and kindred arts: A comprehensive treatise on perfumery,H. C. Baird, 1877
  • Current opinion,Volume 32, The Current Literature Publishing Co., 1902
  • Dewey, Willis Alonzo,Medical century,Volume 14, Medical Century Company., 1906
  • Ebert, Albert Ethelbert,The Standard formulary,G.P. Engelhard & Co., 1897
  • Fettner, Ann Tucker,Potpourri, incense, and other fragrant concoctions,Workman Pub. Co., 1977,ISBN0-911104-97-6
  • Fletcher, Ella Adelia,Woman Beautiful,Kessinger Publishing, 1998,ISBN0-7661-0380-3
  • Frank, Marc Henry,Eugenics and Sex Relations for Men and Women,Kessinger Publishing, 2005,ISBN1-4179-8913-0
  • Griffin, Judy,Flowers That Heal: Aromas, Herbs, Essences and Other Secrets of the Fairies,Cosimo, Inc., 2002,ISBN1-931044-35-X
  • Grolier,The New book of knowledge,Grolier, 1986,ISBN0-7172-0517-7
  • Groom, Nigel,The new perfume handbook,Springer, 1997,ISBN0-7514-0403-9
  • Halpern, Georges M.,The Healing Trail: Essential Oils of Madagascar,Basic Health Publications, Inc., 2003,ISBN1-59120-016-4
  • Hiss, A. Emil,The new standard formulary:,G.P. Engelhard, 1910
  • Keithler, William R.,The formulation of cosmetics and cosmetic specialties,Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1956
  • Hopkins, Albert Allis,The Scientific American cyclopedia of formulas: partly based upon the 28th ed. of Scientific American cyclopedia of receipts, notes and queries,Munn & co., inc., 1910
  • Lawless, Julia,The illustrated encyclopedia of essential oils: the complete guide to the use of oils in aromatherapy and herbalism,Barnes & Noble, 1995,ISBN1-56619-990-5
  • Lillard, Benjamin,Practical druggist and pharmaceutical review of reviews,Volume 40, Lillard & Co., 1922
  • Martin, George R.,The mentor-world traveler,Volume 10, George R. Martin, 1922
  • Miller, William Tyler,Garden & home builder,volume 13, Doubleday, Page and Company, 1911
  • Müller, Peter M.,Perfumes: art, science, and technology,Springer, 1994,ISBN0-7514-0157-9
  • Sherrow, Victoria,For appearance' sake: the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming,Greenwood Publishing Group, 2001,ISBN1-57356-204-1
  • Stoddart, David Michael,The scented ape: the biology and culture of human odour,Cambridge University Press, 1990,ISBN0-521-39561-5
  • The National Druggist,Volume 42; H. R. Strong, 1912

Citations

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  1. ^Murray, James(1926)."toiletsb.§§7,9b ".Oxford English Dictionary.Vol. 10 Part 1: Ti–U (1st ed.). Oxford: Clarendon Press. p. 108.
  2. ^"Definition of" toilet water "".Collins English Dictionary.Retrieved27 November2015.
  3. ^Cristiani, p. 117
  4. ^Poch, Glenn (February 1997)."Newsletter 15".Glenn Poch's Bottle Collecting.Retrieved5 March2024.
  5. ^Cox, p. 118
  6. ^Ebert, p. 304
  7. ^Lawless, p. 39
  8. ^Lacey, Miriam."Fragrance Defined: Parfum vs. EDP vs. EDT vs. Cologne".bellsugar.com.Bell Sugar. Archived fromthe originalon 1 March 2014.Retrieved27 July2014.
  9. ^Aug 8 2010."What is the difference between eau de parfum and eau de toilette in perfumes and colognes?".gildedlife.com.Gilded Life. Archived fromthe originalon 25 March 2016.Retrieved27 July2014.{{cite web}}:CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  10. ^Baker, p. 262
  11. ^Fettner, p. 102
  12. ^"Cologne".Encyclopædia Britannica.
  13. ^perfume
  14. ^abcGroom, p. 329
  15. ^eau de toildefinition from the online Free Dictionary
  16. ^"Thesaurus online dictionary".Archived fromthe originalon 2017-08-30.Retrieved2010-08-23.
  17. ^Grolier, p. 154
  18. ^Consumer reports,pp. 409–411
  19. ^Müller, p. 348
  20. ^Sherrow, p. 211
  21. ^Sherrow, p. 125
  22. ^The History of PerfumeArchived2015-02-08 at theWayback Machine
  23. ^Sherrow, p. 125King Louis XIV (1638–1715) had his shirts scented with toilet water that included aloewood, rosewood, orangle flower, musk, and spices. The concoction was called "heavenly water"...
  24. ^Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, p. 34
  25. ^Hiss, pp. 918–919
  26. ^Frank, p. 414
  27. ^Dewey, p. 55
  28. ^Interstate druggist, Volume 7, page 333
  29. ^Stoddart, p. 154
  30. ^Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities, 1550–1820 by Nancy Cox and Karin Dannehl
  31. ^Booth, p. 157
  32. ^Reader's Digest – Make your own Fragrance
  33. ^Halpern, p. 37
  34. ^Booth, p. 82
  35. ^Lillard, p. 33
  36. ^abcHopkins, p. 875
  37. ^Fletcher, p. 219
  38. ^Miller, p. 99
  39. ^Hopkins, p. 876
  40. ^Hiss, p. 915
  41. ^Toilet Water ideas
  42. ^"kananga water".Archived fromthe originalon 2009-04-06.Retrieved2010-08-23.
  43. ^Country Wisdom Almanac: 373 Tips, Crafts, Home Improvements, Recipes, and Homemade Remedies
  44. ^abKeppel, p. 154
  45. ^Nosegay
  46. ^The National Druggist, Volume 42, p. 65
  47. ^Beauty—its attainment and preservation,p. 494
  48. ^Bulletin of pharmacy,p. 317