St Kilda, Scotland

St Kilda

Scottish Gaelicname	Hiort
Pronunciation	[hirˠʃt̪]
Old Norsename	Possibly Hirtir
Meaning of name	Unknown, possibly Gaelic for "westland" or Norse for "stags"
Overview of Village Bay, St Kilda
Location
St Kilda St Kilda shown within the Outer Hebrides
OS grid reference	NF095995
Coordinates	57°48′54″N08°35′15″W
Physical geography
Island group	St Kilda
Area	3.3 square miles (8.5 km2)
Highest elevation	Conachair, 430 m (1,410 ft)
Administration
Council area	Comhairle nan Eilean Siar
Country	Scotland
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Demographics
Population	No permanent population since 1930
Largest settlement	Am Baile (the Village)
References
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Criteria	Cultural: iii, v; Natural: vii, ix, x
Reference	387
Inscription	1986 (10thSession)
Extensions	2004, 2005
Area	24,201.4004 hectares (59,803 acres)

St Kilda(Scottish Gaelic:Hiort) is a remotearchipelagosituated 64 kilometres (40 mi) west-northwest ofNorth Uistin theNorth Atlantic Ocean.It contains the westernmost islands of theOuter Hebridesof Scotland.The largest island isHirta,whose sea cliffs are the highest in the United Kingdom; three other islands (Dùn,SoayandBoreray) were also used for grazing and seabird hunting.The islands are administratively a part of theComhairle nan Eilean Siarlocal authority area.

The origin of the nameSt Kildais a matter of conjecture. The islands' human heritage includes numerous unique architectural features from the historic and prehistoric periods, although the earliest written records of island life date from theLate Middle Ages.The medieval village on Hirta was rebuilt in the 19th century, but illnesses brought by increased external contacts through tourism, and the upheaval of theFirst World War,contributed to the island's evacuation in 1930.The story of St Kilda has attracted artistic interpretations, includingMichael Powell's filmThe Edge of the Worldand an opera.

Permanent habitation on the islands possibly extends back two millennia, the population probably never exceeding 180; its peak was in the late 17th century. The population was 112 in 1851. According to the 1861 census, there were 71 inhabitants at that time; over subsequent years, the population ebbed and waned, eventually dropping to 36 as of May 1930.Virtually all of the population lived on Hirta. The entire remaining population wasevacuatedfrom Hirta, by then the only inhabited island, in 1930.

The islands house a unique form of stone structure known ascleitean.Acleitis a stone storage hut orbothy;while many still exist, they are slowly falling into disrepair.There are known to be 1,260cleiteanonHirtaand a further 170 on the other group islands.Currently, the only year-round residents are military personnel; a variety of conservation workers, volunteers and scientists spend time there in the summer months.

The entire archipelago is owned by theNational Trust for Scotland.It became one ofScotland's sixWorld Heritage Sitesin 1986, and is one of the few in the world to hold joint status for both its natural and cultural qualities.Parties of volunteers work on the islands in the summer to restore the many ruined buildings that the native St Kildans left behind. They share the island with a small military base established in 1957.

Two different early sheep types have survived on these remote islands: theSoay,aNeolithictype, and theBoreray,anIron Agetype. The islands are a breeding ground for many importantseabirdspecies includingnorthern gannets,Atlantic puffins,andnorthern fulmars.TheSt Kilda wrenandSt Kilda field mouseare endemicsubspecies.

Origin of names

The Street in 1886

Nosaintis known by the nameKilda,nor isSt Kildaused in Gaelic,and various theories have been proposed for the origin of the name, which dates from the late 16th century.

S. Kildaoccurs for the first time inThresoor der Zeevaert( "Treasure of Navigation" ), a pilot book published byLucas Waghenaerin 1592.A. B. Taylorsuggested that it originated as a copying error ofSkilda(r),a name that appears onNicolas de Nicolay's 1583 map of Scotland, which Waghenaer used as a source. On Nicolay's map, and on two other 16th century maps,the name denotes an island group closer toLewis and Harristhan St Kilda. Suggestions as to which island groupSkildarand its variants applied to includeHaskeir,GaskerandHaskeir Eagach.Taylor notes that both of the latter two groups could be compared to shields lying flat upon the water, and gives the Norse wordskildir(meaning "shields" ) as the etymon.

1580Carte of Scotlandeshowing Hyrth (i.e. Hirta) at left and Skaldar to the north east

According to another theory, advanced byWilliam J. Watsonand others, the name derives from Tobar Childa, an important well on Hirta.Childais in fact a descendant ofkelda,the Norse word for a well, but it is possible that visitors to the island (who would have used the well to take on fresh water) mistook it as the name of a local saint.A number of other theories have been suggested in both the past and in modern times.

Pronunciation
Scottish Gaelic:	Am Baile
Pronunciation:	[əmˈpalə]
Scottish Gaelic:	An Lag bhon Tuath
Pronunciation:	[əˈlˠ̪akvɔn̪ˠˈt̪ʰuə]
Scottish Gaelic:	Bàgh a' Bhaile
Pronunciation:	[ˈpaːɣəvalə]
Scottish Gaelic:	cleitean
Pronunciation:	[ˈkʰlehtʲan]
Scottish Gaelic:	Cleitean MacPhàidein
Pronunciation:	[ˈkʰlehtʲanmaxkˈfaːtʲɛɲ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Cnatan nan Gall
Pronunciation:	[ˈkʰɾãht̪annəŋˈkaulˠ̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Conachair
Pronunciation:	[ˈkʰɔnəxəɾʲ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Dòirneagan Hiort
Pronunciation:	[ˈt̪ɔːrˠɲakənˈhirˠʃt̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Dùn
Pronunciation:	[ˈt̪uːn]
Scottish Gaelic:	Gleann Mòr
Pronunciation:	[ˈklaun̪ˠˈmoːɾ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Ì Àrd
Pronunciation:	[ˈiːˈaːrˠt̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Loch Hiort
Pronunciation:	[lˠ̪ɔxˈhirˠʃt̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Mullach Bìgh
Pronunciation:	[ˈmulˠ̪əxˈpiː]
Scottish Gaelic:	Mullach Mòr
Pronunciation:	[ˈmulˠ̪əxˈmoːɾ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Oiseabhal
Pronunciation:	[ˈɔʃəvəlˠ̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Ruadhbhal
Pronunciation:	[ˈrˠuəvəlˠ̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Seann Taigh
Pronunciation:	[ˈʃaun̪ˠˈt̪ʰɤj]
Scottish Gaelic:	Taigh an t-Sithiche
Pronunciation:	[ˈt̪ʰɤjəɲˈtʰʲi.ɪçə]
Scottish Gaelic:	Taigh Dugain
Pronunciation:	[t̪ʰɤjˈt̪ukɛɲ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Taigh na Banaghaisgich
Pronunciation:	[ˈt̪ʰɤjnəˈpanaɣaʃkʲɪç]
Scottish Gaelic:	Taigh Stallair
Pronunciation:	[ˈt̪ʰɤjˈs̪t̪alˠ̪əɾʲ]

The Village Street showing restoration work

The origins ofHiort,and its anglicized formHirta,which long pre-dateSt Kilda,are similarly obscure. Watson derives it from the Gaelic word(h)irt,meaning "death", noting that althoughAlexander MacBainsuggested "that the ancient Celts fancied this sunset isle to be the gate to their earthly paradise"the connection was more likely to be to the dangers of living on St Kilda, which "in the Hebrides is regarded as a penitentiary rather than a gate to paradise".It has also been said to mean "the western land", from the Gaelic(na) h-iartìrealthough this theory presents difficulties.It may not be Gaelic in origin at all, but rather Norse. Taylor derives it from the Norse wordhirtir,meaning "stags", on account of the islands' "jagged outlines". In support of this theory, he notes thatHirtirappears in the 13th-centuryPrestssaga Guðmundar Arasonaras a name for an island group in the Hebrides.

As with St Kilda, a number of other theories have been offered.All the names of and on the islands are discussed byRichard Coates.

Geography

The St Kilda archipelago

The islands are composed ofTertiaryigneousformations ofgranitesandgabbro,heavily weathered by the elements. The archipelago represents the remnants of a long-extinct ring volcano rising from a seabed plateau approximately 40 metres (130 ft) below sea level.

At 670 hectares (1,700 acres) in extent,Hirtais the largest island in the group and comprises more than 78% of the land area of the archipelago. Next in size areSoay(English: "sheep island" ) at 99 hectares (240 acres) andBoreray( "the fortified isle" ), which measures 86 hectares (210 acres).Soay is 0.5 kilometres (0.3 mi) north-west of Hirta, Boreray 6 kilometres (4 mi) to the northeast. Smallerisletsandstacksin the group includeStac an Armin( "warrior's stack" ),Stac Lee( "grey stack" ) andStac Levenish( "stream" or "torrent" ).The island of Dùn ('fort'), which protects Village Bay from the prevailing southwesterly winds, was at one time joined to Hirta by a natural arch. MacLean (1972) suggests that the arch was broken when struck by agalleonfleeing the defeat of theSpanish Armada,but other sources, such as Mitchell (1992) and Fleming (2005), suggest that the arch was simply swept away by one of the many fierce storms that batter the islands every winter.

The highest point in the archipelago, Conachair ( "the beacon" ) at 430 metres (1,410 ft), is on Hirta, immediately north of the village. In the southeast is Oiseval ( "east fell" ), which reaches 290 metres (950 ft), and Mullach Mòr ( "big hill summit" ) 361 metres (1,185 ft) is due west of Conachair. Ruival ( "red fell" ) 137 metres (449 ft) and Mullach Bi ( "pillar summit" ) 358 metres (1,175 ft) dominate the western cliffs. Boreray reaches 384 metres (1,260 ft) and Soay 378 metres (1,240 ft).The extraordinary Stac an Armin reaches 196 metres (643 ft), and Stac Lee, 172 metres (564 ft), making them the highestsea stacksin Britain.

In modern times, St Kilda's only settlement was at Village Bay (Scottish Gaelic:Bàgh a' BhaileorLoch Hiort) on the east side of Hirta. Gleann Mòr on the north coast of Hirta and Boreray also contain the remains of earlier habitations.The sea approach to Hirta into Village Bay suggests a small settlement flanked by high rolling hills in a semicircle behind it. This is misleading.The whole north face of Conachair is a vertical cliff up to 427 metres (1,401 ft) high,falling sheer into the sea and constituting the highest sea cliff in the UK.

The archipelago is the site of many of the most spectacular sea cliffs in the British Isles. Baxter and Crumley (1988) suggest that St Kilda: "...is a mad, imperfect God's hoard of all unnecessary lavish landscape luxuries he ever devised in his madness. These he has scattered at random in Atlantic isolation 100 miles from the corrupting influences of the mainland, 40 miles west of the westmost Western Isles. He has kept for himself only the best pieces and woven around them a plot as evidence of his madness."

Cliff face silhouette onStac Levenish

Although 64 kilometres (40 mi) from the nearest land, St Kilda is visible from as far as the summit ridges of theSkyeCuillin,some 129 kilometres (80 mi) distant.The climate is oceanic with high rainfall, 1,400 millimetres (55 in), and high humidity. Temperatures are generally cool, averaging 5.6 °C (42.1 °F) in January and 11.8 °C (53.2 °F) in July. The prevailing winds, especially strong in winter, are southerly and southwesterly. Wind speeds average 13 kilometres per hour (8.1 mph) approximately 85 percent of the time and more than 24 kilometres per hour (15 mph) more than 30 percent of the time. Gale-force winds occur less than 2 percent of the time, but gusts of 185 kilometres per hour (115 mph) and more occur regularly on the high tops, and speeds of 209 kilometres per hour (130 mph) have occasionally been recorded near sea level.The tidal range is 2.9 metres (9.5 ft), and ocean swells of 5 metres (16 ft) frequently occur, which can make landings difficult or impossible at any time of year.The oceanic location protects the islands from snow, which lies for only about a dozen days per year.

The archipelago's remote location and oceanic climate are matched in the UK only by a few smaller outlying islands such as theFlannan Isles,North Rona,Sula Sgeir,and theBishop's Islesat the southern edge of the Outer Hebrides. Administratively, St Kilda was part of theparishofHarrisin the traditional county ofInverness-shire.Today it is incorporated in theComhairle nan Eilean Siar(Western Isles)unitary authority.

History

A cleit above Village Bay

Prehistory

It has been known for some time that St Kilda was continuously inhabited for two millennia or more, from theBronze Ageto the 20th century.In 2015, the first direct evidence of earlierNeolithicsettlement emerged, shards of pottery of the Hebridean ware style, found to the east of the village. The subsequent discovery of a quarry for stone tools on Mullach Sgar above Village Bay led to finds of numerous stone hoe-blades, grinders and Skaill knivesin the Village Baycleitean,unique stone storage buildings (see below). These tools are also probably of Neolithic origin.

The pottery shards appear to have been made of local material, rather than material brought from other islands in the Hebrides, suggesting that the islands were settled in the4th millennium BC.Iron Age pottery is also known. Archaeologist Alan Hunter Blair reported that "the eastern end of Village Bay on St Kilda was occupied fairly intensively during the Iron Age period, although no house structures were found".

13th to 18th centuries

The first written record of St Kilda may date from 1202 when an Icelandic cleric wrote of taking shelter on "the islands that are called Hirtir".Early reports mentioned finds of brooches, an iron sword and Danish coins, and the enduring Norse place names indicate a sustained Viking presence on Hirta, but the visible evidence has been lost.In the late 14th centuryJohn of Fordunreferred to it as "the isle of Irte (insula de Irte), which is agreed to be under the Circius and on the margins of the world ".The islands were historically part of the domain of theMacLeodsofHarris,whose steward was responsible for the collection of rents in kind and other duties. The first detailed report of a visit to the islands dates from 1549, whenDonald Munrosuggested that: "The inhabitants thereof ar simple poor people, scarce learnit in aney religion, but M'Cloyd of Herray, his stewart, or he quhom he deputs in sic office, sailes anes in the zear ther at midsummer, with some chaplaine to baptize bairnes ther."

Coll MacDonald ofColonsayraided Hirta in 1615, removing 30 sheep and a quantity of barley.Thereafter, the islands developed a reputation for abundance. At the time of Martin's visit in 1697 the population was 180 and the steward travelled with a "company" of up to 60 persons to which he "elected the most 'meagre' among his friends in the neighbouring islands, to that number and took them periodically to St. Kilda to enjoy the nourishing and plentiful, if primitive, fare of the island, and so be restored to their wonted health and strength."

According to Keay and Keay (1994), until the early 19th century the islanders' "close relationship with nature had taken the ritual form ofDruidism",whilst their understanding ofChristianityshaped their relationships with one another: a combination of "natural devoutness and superstitious character".Macauley(1764) claimed the existence of a "druidic" circle of stones fixed perpendicularly in the ground near the Stallar House onBoreray.However, by 1875 all trace of this had gone and according toJohn Sands“the St Kildans seem never to have heard of it”.

Rachel Chiesleywas held on St Kilda from 1734 to 1741.

Visiting ships broughtcholeraandsmallpoxin the 18th century.In 1727, the loss of life was so high that too few residents remained to man the boats, and new families were brought in fromHarristo replace them.By 1758 the population had risen to 88, and it had reached just under 100 by the end of the century. This figure remained fairly constant from the 18th century until 1851, when 36 islanders emigrated to Australia on board thePriscilla,a loss from which the island never fully recovered. The emigration was in part a response to thelaird's closure of the church andmansefor several years during theDisruptionthat created theFree Church of Scotland.

Religion

See also:Religion in the Outer Hebrides

The interior of the church at Oiseabhal, St Kilda

A missionary called Alexander Buchan went to St Kilda in 1705, but despite his long stay, the idea of organised religion did not take hold. This changed when Rev.John MacDonald,the "Apostle of the North", arrived in 1822. He set about his mission with zeal, preaching 13 lengthy sermons during his first 11 days. He returned regularly and raised funds on behalf of the St Kildans, although privately he was appalled by their lack of religious knowledge. The islanders took to him with enthusiasm and wept when he left for the last time eight years later. His successor, who arrived on 3 July 1830, was Rev. Neil Mackenzie, a residentChurch of Scotlandminister who greatly improved the conditions of the inhabitants. He reorganised island agriculture, was instrumental in the rebuilding of the village (see below) and supervised the building of a new church and manse. With help from the Gaelic School Society, MacKenzie and his wife introduced formal education to Hirta, beginning a daily school to teach reading, writing and arithmetic and aSunday schoolfor religious education.

Mackenzie left in 1844.No new minister was appointed for a decade and as a result, the school closed on the MacKenzie's departure and although he had achieved a great deal, the weakness of the St Kildans' dependence on external authority was exposed in 1865 with the arrival of Rev. John Mackay. Despite their fondness for Mackenzie, who stayed in the Church of Scotland, the St Kildans declared in favour of the newFree Church of Scotlandduring theGreat Disruption.Mackay, the new Free Church minister, placed an uncommon emphasis on religious observance. He introduced a routine of three two-to-three-hour services on Sunday at which attendance was effectively compulsory. One visitor noted in 1875 that: "The Sabbath was a day of intolerable gloom. At the clink of the bell, the whole flock hurry to Church with sorrowful looks and eyes bent upon the ground. It is considered sinful to look to the right or to the left."

Time spent in religious gatherings interfered seriously with the practical routines of the island. Old ladies and children who made noise in church were lectured at length and warned of dire punishments in the afterworld. During a period of food shortages on the island, a relief vessel arrived on a Saturday, but the minister said that the islanders had to spend the day preparing for church on the Sabbath, and it was Monday before supplies were landed. Children were forbidden to play games and required to carry a Bible wherever they went. Mackay remained minister on St Kilda for 24 years.

Way of life

St Kildans paid some of their rent by collecting seabirds; roping pegs – one of which can be seen in this photo – enabled them toabseildown to the nests.

Most modern commentators feel that the predominant theme of life on St Kilda was isolation. WhenMartin Martinvisited the islands in 1697,the only means of making the journey was by open boat, which could take several days and nights of rowing and sailing across the ocean and was next to impossible in autumn and winter. According to a St Kilda diarist writing in 1908, vicious storms could be expected at any time between September and March.More modern records from the National Trust for Scotland record gales for 75 days a year with peak winds around 144 mph (125 kn) whilst peak wave heights on the Scottish west coast have been recorded at 16 m (52 ft).

In the mid 18th century the St. Kildans are recorded as speaking a "very corrupt dialect of the Galic adulterated with a little mixture of the Norvegian tongue."

Separated by distance and weather, the natives knew little of mainland and international politics. After theBattle of Cullodenin 1746, it was rumoured thatPrince Charles Edward Stuartand some of his seniorJacobiteaides had escaped to St Kilda. An expedition was launched, and in due course British soldiers were ferried ashore to Hirta. They found a deserted village, as the St Kildans, fearing pirates, had fled to caves to the west. When the St Kildans were persuaded to come down, the soldiers discovered that the isolated natives knew nothing of the prince and had never heard ofKing George IIeither.

Even in the late 19th century, the islanders could communicate with the rest of the world only by lighting a bonfire on the summit of Conachair which would, weather permitting, be visible to those on the isles of Harris and the Uists, or by using the "St Kilda mailboat". This was the invention ofJohn Sands,who visited in 1877. During his stay, a shipwreck left nine Austrian sailors marooned there, and by February supplies were running low. Sands attached a message to alifebuoysalvaged from thePeti Dubrovackiand threw it into the sea.Nine days later it was picked up inBirsay,Orkney, and a rescue was arranged. The St Kildans, building on this idea, would fashion a piece of wood into the shape of a boat, attach it to a bladder made of sheepskin, and place in it a small bottle or tin containing a message. Launched when the wind came from the north-west, two-thirds of the messages were later found on the west coast of Scotland or in Norway.

Launching the "St Kilda mailboat"

Diet

Another significant feature of St Kilda life was diet. The islanders kept sheep and some cattle, and were able to grow a limited amount of food crops such asbarleyandpotatoeson the better-drained land in Village Bay; in many ways the islands can be seen as a large mixed farm.Samuel Johnsonreported in the 18th century thatsheep's milkwas made "into small cheeses" by the St Kildans.They generally eschewed fishing because of the heavy, northern seas and unpredictable weather.The mainstay of their food supplies was the profusion of island birds, especiallygannetandfulmar.These they harvested as eggs and young birds and ate both fresh and cured. Adult puffins were also caught by usingfowlingrods.A 1764 census described a daily consumption by the 90 inhabitants of "36 wildfoul eggs and 18 wildfoul" (i.e. seabirds).

This feature of island life came at a price. WhenHenry Broughamvisited in 1799 he noted that "the air is infected by a stench almost insupportable – a compound of rotten fish, filth of all sorts and stinking seafowl".An excavation of theTaigh an t-Sithiche(the "house of the faeries" – see below) in 1877 by Sands unearthed the remains of gannet, sheep, cattle, and limpets amidst various stone tools. The building is between 1,700 and 2,500 years old, which suggests that the St Kildan diet had changed little over the millennia. Indeed, the tools were recognised by the St Kildans, who could put names to them as similar devices were still in use.

Razorbill,guillemot,andfulmareggs were collected before the late 1920s in St Kilda's islands by their men scaling the cliffs. The eggs were buried in St Kildapeatash to be eaten through the cold, northern winters. The eggs were considered to taste likeduck eggsin taste and nourishment.

These fowling activities involved considerable skills in climbing, especially on the precipitous sea stacks. An important island tradition involved the "Mistress Stone", a door-shaped opening in the rocks northwest of Ruival over-hanging a gully. Young men of the island had to undertake a ritual there to prove themselves on the crags and worthy of taking a wife. Martin Martin wrote:

The Mistress Stone

In the face of the rock, south from the town, is the famous stone, known by the name of the mistress-stone; it resembles a door exactly; and is in the very front of this rock, which is 20 or 30 fathom [120 to 180 feet (37 to 55 m)] perpendicular in height, the figure of it being discernible about the distance of a mile; upon the lintel of this door, every bachelor-wooer is by ancient custom obliged in honour to give a specimen of his affection for the love of his mistress, and it is thus; he is to stand on his left foot, having the one half of his sole over the rock, and then he draws the right foot further out to the left, and in this posture bowing, he puts both his fists further out to the right foot; and then after he has performed this, he has acquired no small reputation, being always after it accounted worthy of the finest mistress in the world: they firmly believe that this achievement is always followed with the desired success. This being the custom of the place, one of the inhabitants very gravely desired me to let him know the time limited by me for trying of this piece of gallantry before I design'd to leave the place, that he might attend me; I told him this performance would have a quite contrary effect upon me, by robbing me both of my life and mistress at the same moment.

Atlantic puffin(Fratercula arctica). Seabirds were the mainstay of the St Kildan diet.

Another important aspect of St Kildan life was the daily "parliament". This was a meeting held in the street every morning after prayers and attended by all the adult males during the course of which they would decide upon the day's activities. No one led the meeting, and all men had the right to speak. According to Steel (1988), "Discussion frequently spread discord, but never in recorded history were feuds so bitter as to bring about a permanent division in the community".This notion of a free society influencedEnric Miralles' vision for the newScottish Parliament Building,opened in October 2004.

Whatever the privations, the St Kildans were fortunate in some respects, for their isolation spared them some of the evils of life elsewhere. Martin noted in 1697 that the citizens seemed "happier than the generality of mankind as being almost the only people in the world who feel the sweetness of true liberty",and in the 19th century their health and well being was contrasted favourably with conditions elsewhere in theHebrides.Theirs was not a utopian society; the islanders had ingenious wooden locks for their property, and financial penalties were exacted for misdemeanours.Nonetheless, no resident St Kildan is known to have fought in a war, and in four centuries of history, no serious crime committed by an islander was recorded there.

Tourism in the 19th century

Photograph of the residents by an Edinburgh-based amateur photographer, circa 1890

Norman Heathcotevisited the islands in 1898 and 1899 and wrote a book about his experiences.During the 19th century, steamers had begun to visit Hirta, enabling the islanders to earn money from the sale oftweedsand birds' eggs but at the expense of theirself-esteemas the tourists regarded them as curiosities. It is also clear that the St Kildans were not so naïve as they sometimes appeared. "For example, when they boarded a yacht they would pretend they thought all the polished brass was gold, and that the owner must be enormously wealthy".The boats brought other previously unknown diseases, especiallytetanus infantum,which resulted in infant mortality rates as high as 80 per cent during the late 19th century.Thecnatan na gallor boat-cough, an illness that struck after the arrival of a ship off Hirta, became a regular feature of life.

By the early 20th century, formal schooling had again become a feature of the islands, and in 1906 the church was extended to make a schoolhouse. The children all now learned English and their nativeGaelic.Improvedmidwiferyskills, denied to the island by John Mackay, reduced the problems ofchildhood tetanus.From the 1880s,trawlersfishing the north Atlantic made regular visits, bringing additional trade. There was talk of an evacuation in 1875 during MacKay's time as minister, but despite occasional food shortages and a flu epidemic in 1913, the population was stable at between 75 and 80, and there was no obvious sign that within a few years the millennia-old occupation of the island was to end.

First World War

The4-inch QF gunonHirtalooking towardsDùn

Early in theFirst World War,theRoyal Navyerected asignal stationon Hirta, and daily communications with the mainland were established for the first time. In a belated response, the German submarineSM U-90arrived in Village Bay on the morning of 15 May 1918 and, after issuing a warning, started shelling the island. Seventy-two shells were fired, and the wireless station was destroyed. The manse, church, and jetty storehouse were damaged, but there was no loss of life.One eyewitness recalled: "It wasn't what you would call a bad submarine because it could have blowed every house down because they were all in a row there. He only wanted Admiralty property. One lamb was killed... all the cattle ran from one side of the island to the other when they heard the shots."

As a result of this attack, a4-inch Mark III QF gunwas erected on a promontory overlooking Village Bay, but it never saw action against the enemy. Of greater long-term significance to the islanders were the introduction of regular contact with the outside world and the slow development of a money-based economy. This made life easier for the St Kildans but also made them less self-reliant. Both were factors in the evacuation of the island little more than a decade later.

"Ironically, things improved with the war, which brought a naval detachment and regular deliveries of mail and food from naval supply vessels but when these services were withdrawn at end of the war, the sense of isolation increased. Able bodied young islanders left for a better life, resulting in a breakdown of the island economy".

Evacuation and aftermath

Boreray,Stac Lee, andStac an Armin(left) from the heights of Conachair, the highest cliff in theUnited Kingdom.

Numerous factors led to the evacuation of St Kilda. The islands' inhabitants had existed for centuries in relative isolation until tourism and the presence of the military during the First World War led the islanders to seek alternatives to privations they routinely suffered. The changes made to the island by visitors in the nineteenth century disconnected the islanders from the way of life that had allowed their forebears to survive in this unique environment.Despite the construction of a small jetty in 1902, the islands remained at the weather's mercy.

After the end of the Great War, most of the young men left the island, and the population fell from 73 in 1920 to 37 in 1928.After the death of four men frominfluenzain 1926, there was a succession of crop failures in the 1920s. Investigations by theUniversity of Aberdeeninto the soil where crops had been grown have shown that there had been contamination byleadand other pollutants, caused by the use of seabird carcasses and peat ash in the manure used on the fields. This occurred over a lengthy period of time, as manuring practices became more intensive, and may have been a factor in the evacuation.

The last straw came with the death of a young woman, Mary Gillies, who fell ill withappendicitisin January 1930 and was taken to the mainland for treatment. She later died in hospital. For many years it was assumed that she had died of appendicitis, but her son Norman John Gillies discovered in 1991 that she had in fact died ofpneumonia,having given birth to a daughter who also died.All the cattle and sheep were taken off the island two days before the evacuation by the tourist boatDunara Castlefor sale on the mainland. However, all the island's working dogs were drowned in the bay because they could not be taken.On 29 August 1930, the shipHarebelltook the remaining 36 inhabitants toMorvernon the Scottish mainland, a decision they took collectively themselves.

The morning of the evacuation promised a perfect day. The sun rose out of a calm and sparkling sea and warmed the impassive cliffs of Oiseval. The sky was hopelessly blue and the sight of Hirta, green and pleasant as the island of so many careless dreams, made parting all the more difficult. Observing tradition the islanders left an open Bible and a small pile of oats in each house, locked all the doors and at 7 am boarded theHarebell.Although exhausted by the strain and hard work of the last few days, they were reported to have stayed cheerful throughout the operation. But as the long antler of Dun fell back onto the horizon and the familiar outline of the island grew faint, the severing of an ancient tie became a reality and the St Kildans gave way to tears.

The last of the native St Kildans, Rachel Johnson, died in April 2016 at the age of 93, having been evacuated at the age of eight.

In 1931, the islands' laird,Sir Reginald MacLeod of MacLeod,sold them toLord Dumfries,who later became the 5thMarquess of Bute.For the next 26 years they saw few people, save for the occasional summer visitors or a returning St Kildan family.

Military occupation

The tracking tower onMullach Sgar

The islands saw no military activity during theSecond World War,remaining uninhabited,but three aircraft crash sites remain from that period. ABeaufighterLX798 based at Port Ellen onIslaycrashed into Conachair within 100 metres (330 ft) of the summit on the night of 3–4 June 1943. A year later, just before midnight on 7 June 1944, the day afterD-Day,aSunderlandflying boatML858 was wrecked at the head of Gleann Mòr. A small plaque in the church is dedicated to those who died in this accident.

AWellingtonbombercrashed on the south coast of Soay in 1942 or 1943. Not until 1978 was any formal attempt made to investigate the wreck, and its identity has not been absolutely determined. Amongst the wreckage, aRoyal Canadian Air Forcecap badge was discovered, which suggests it may have been HX448 of7 Operational Training Unitwhich went missing on a navigation exercise on 28 September 1942. Alternatively, it has been suggested that the Wellington is LA995 of303 Ferry Training Unitwhich was lost on 23 February 1943.

In 1955 the British government decided to incorporate St Kilda into a missile tracking range based inBenbecula,where test firings and flights are carried out. Thus in 1957 St Kilda became permanently inhabited once again. A variety of military buildings and masts have since been erected, including a canteen (which is not open to the public), the Puff Inn.TheMinistry of Defence(MOD) leases St Kilda from the National Trust for Scotland for a nominal fee.

Hirta is still occupied year-round by a small number of civilians employed by defence contractorQinetiQworking in the military base (Deep Sea Range) on a monthly rotation.In 2009 the MOD announced that it was considering closing down its missile testing ranges in the Western Isles, potentially leaving the Hirta base unmanned.In 2015 the base had to be temporarily evacuated due to adverse weather conditions.

In summer 2018, the MOD facilities were being restored as part of building a new base; one report stated that the project included "replacing aged generators and accommodation blocks".With no permanent population, the island population can vary between 20 and 70, most living here temporarily. These inhabitants include MOD employees,National Trust for Scotlandemployees, and several scientists working on aSoay sheepresearch project.

21st-century tourism

Village Bay (St Kilda Village), Hirta; 2010

Visits to St Kilda were encouraged until facilities closed due to the worldwideCOVID-19 pandemicin 2020; as of early February 2021 the toilets, campsite, and shopping facilities on Hirta were all closed.

The National Trust for Scotland has improved the village on Hirta over the years. "They have reroofed the cottages on the main street, restored the church, and re-stacked stones that years of gales had toppled from the cleits, or bothies, that dot the volcanic landscape".One cottage, #3 on "The Street" has been more extensively restored and turned into the museum.However, a full restoration of the other cottages is not expected.

The Historic Environment Scotland website states that "the plain, two-bay church, with the schoolroom added to its north west in 1898" was "restored as they might have appeared in the 1920s." The site also explains that the "arrangement of St Kilda Village along a curving street is the result of mid-19th century improvement... Distinctive drystone storage structures, known as cleitan, are scattered throughout the landscape. There are over 1,400 cleitan known throughout the St Kilda archipelago, but they are concentrated in the area around the village".

A Cleit (storage shed)

The National Trust for Scotland suggests that there is a great deal of interest in diving in the area as well as viewing of seabirds in "Europe's most important seabird colony, and one of the major seabird breeding stations in the North Atlantic.Before the closure, day trips for tourists were readily available, by boat, leaving from Stein Jetty, Skye.A review of St Kilda, written before facilities closed, warned that landing at the pier can be difficult in rough seas.

Architecture

Prehistoric buildings

Ruins in Gleann Mòr

The oldest structures on St Kilda are the most enigmatic. Largesheepfoldslie inland from the existing village atAn Lag Bho'n Tuath(English: the hollow in the north) and contain curious "boat-shaped" stone rings, or "settings". Soil samples suggest a date of 1850 BC, but they are unique to St Kilda, and their purpose is unknown. In Gleann Mòr, (north-west of Village Bay beyond Hirta's central ridge), there are 20 "horned structures", essentially ruined buildings with a main court measuring about 3 by 3 metres (10 by 10 ft), two or more smaller cells and a forecourt formed by two curved or horn-shaped walls. Again, nothing like them exists anywhere else in Europe, and their original use is unknown.Also in Gleann Mòr isTaigh na Banaghaisgeich,the "Amazon's House". As Martin (1703) reported, many St Kilda tales are told about this female warrior.

This Amazon is famous in their traditions: her house or dairy of stone is yet extant; some of the inhabitants dwell in it all summer, though it be some hundred years old; the whole is built of stone, without any wood, lime, earth, or mortar to cement it, and is built in form of a circle pyramid-wise towards the top, having a vent in it, the fire being always in the centre of the floor; the stones are long and thin, which supplies the defect of wood; the body of this house contains not above nine persons sitting; there are three beds or low vaults that go off the side of the wall, a pillar betwixt each bed, which contains five men apiece; at the entry to one of these low vaults is a stone standing upon one end fix'd; upon this they say she ordinarily laid her helmet; there are two stones on the other side, upon which she is reported to have laid her sword: she is said to have been much addicted to hunting, and that in her time all the space betwixt this isle and that of Harries, was one continued tract of dry land.

Similar stories of a female warrior who hunted the now-submerged land between the Outer Hebrides and St Kilda are reported fromHarris.The structure's forecourt is akin to the other "horned structures" in the immediate area, but like Martin's "Amazon" its original purpose is the stuff of legend rather than archaeological fact.

Much more is known of the hundreds of uniquecleiteanthat decorate the archipelago. These dome-shaped structures are constructed of flat boulders with a cap of turf on the top. This enables the wind to pass through the cavities in the wall but keeps the rain out. They were used for storing peat, nets,grain,preserved flesh and eggs, manure, and hay, and as a shelter for lambs in winter. The date of origin of this St Kildan invention is unknown, but they were in continuous use from prehistoric times until the 1930 evacuation. More than 1,200 ruined or intactcleiteanremain on Hirta and a further 170 on the neighbouring islands.House no. 16 in the modern village has an early Christian stone cross built into the front wall, which may date from the 7th century.

Medieval village

The Village. The Head Wall surrounds the site, with Tobar Childa top left, the 19th century Street at the centre and the new military base to the right.

A medieval village lay near Tobar Childa, about 350 metres (1,150 ft) from the shore, at the foot of the slopes of Conachair. The oldest building is an underground passage with two small annexes calledTaigh an t-Sithiche(house of the faeries) which dates to between 500 BC and 300 AD. The St Kildans believed it was a house or hiding place, although a more recent theory suggests that it was anice house.

Extensive ruins of field walls andcleiteanand the remnants of amedieval"house" with a beehive-shaped annexe remain. Nearby is the "Bull's House", a roofless rectangular structure in which the island's bull was kept during winter. Tobar Childa itself is supplied by two springs that lie just outside the Head Wall that was constructed around the Village to prevent sheep and cattle gaining access to the cultivated areas within its boundary.There were 25 to 30 houses altogether. Most wereblackhousesof typical Hebridean design, but some older buildings were made of corbelled stone and turfed rather than thatched. The turf was used to prevent the ingress of wind and rain, and the older "beehive" buildings resembled green hillocks rather than dwellings.

Post-Medieval structures

The Head Wall was built in 1834 when the medieval village was abandoned and a new one planned between Tobar Childa and the sea some 700 feet (210 m) down the slope. This came about as the result of a visit bySir Thomas Dyke Ackland,one of theMembers of ParliamentforDevon.Appalled by the primitive conditions, he gave money for the building of a completely new settlement of thirty newblackhouses.These houses were made ofdry stone,had thick walls, and were roofed with turf. Each typically had only one tiny window and a small opening for letting out smoke from the peat fire that burnt in the middle of the room. As a result, the interiors were blackened by soot. The cattle occupied one end of the house in winter, and once a year the straw from the floor was stripped out and spread on the ground.

In October 1860, several of the new dwellings were damaged by a severe gale, and repairs were sufficient only to make them suitable for use asbyres.According toAlasdair MacGregor's analysis of the settlement, the sixteen modern, zinc-roofed cottages amidst the black houses and newFactor'shouse seen in most photographs of the native islanders were constructed around 1862.

The Feather Store, where fulmar and gannet feathers were kept, and sold to pay the rent

One of the more poignant ruins on Hirta is the site of "Lady Grange's House".Lady Grangehad been married to theJacobitesympathiserJames Erskine, Lord Grange,for 25 years when he decided that she might have overheard too many of his treasonable plottings. He had her kidnapped and secretly confined inEdinburghfor six months. From there she was sent to theMonach Isles,where she lived in isolation for two years. She was then taken to Hirta from 1734 to 1740, which she described as "a vile neasty, stinking poor isle". After a failed rescue attempt, she was removed on her husband's orders to theIsle of Skye,where she died. The "house" on Hirta which carries her name is a large cleit in the Village meadows.

BoswellandJohnsondiscussed the subject during their 1773 tour of the Hebrides. Boswell wrote: "After dinner to-day, we talked of the extraordinary fact of Lady Grange's being sent to St Kilda, and confined there for several years, without any means of relief. Dr Johnson said, if M'Leod would let it be known that he had such a place for naughty ladies, he might make it a very profitable island."

This "International Sea & Airport Lounge" is situated adjacent to thehelipadand landing craft slipway.

In the 1860s unsuccessful attempts were made to improve the landing area by blasting rocks. A smalljettywas erected in 1877, but it was washed away in a storm two years later. In 1883 representations to theNapier Commissionsuggested the building of a replacement, but it was 1901 before theCongested Districts Boardprovided an engineer to enable one to be completed the following year. Nearby on the shoreline are some huge boulders which were known throughout theHighlands and Islandsin the 19th century asDoirneagan Hirt,Hirta's pebbles.

At one time, three churches stood on Hirta. Christ Church, in the site of the graveyard at the centre of the village, was in use in 1697 and was the largest, but this thatched-roof structure was too small to hold the entire population, and most of the congregation had to gather in the churchyard during services. St Brendan's Church lay over a kilometre away on the slopes of Ruival, and St Columba's at the west end of the village street, but little is left of these buildings. A newkirkandmansewere erected at the east end of the village in 1830 and aFactor'shouse in 1860.

Buildings on other islands

Dùnfrom Ruival withStac Levenishin the background at left

Dùnmeans "fort", and there is but a single ruined wall of a structure said to have been built in the far-distant past by theFir Bolg.The only "habitation" isSean Taigh(old house), a natural cavern sometimes used as a shelter by the St Kildans when they were tending the sheep or catching birds.Soay has a primitive hut known asTaigh Dugan(Dugan's house). This is little more than an excavated hole under a massive stone with two crude walls on the sides. The story of its creation relates to two sheep-stealing brothers fromLewiswho came to St Kilda only to cause further trouble. Dugan was exiled to Soay, where he died; the other, called Fearchar Mòr, was sent to Stac an Armin, where he found life so intolerable he cast himself into the sea.

Boreray boasts theCleitean MacPhàidein,a "cleit village" of three small bothies used on a regular basis during fowling expeditions. Here too are the ruins ofTaigh Stallar(the steward's house), which was similar to the Amazon's house in Gleann Mòr although somewhat larger, and which had six bed spaces. The local tradition was that it was built by the "Man of the Rocks", who led a rebellion against the landlord's steward.It may be an example of anIron Agewheelhouseand the associated remains of an agricultural field system were discovered in 2011.As a result of a smallpox outbreak on Hirta in 1724, three men and eight boys were marooned on Boreray until the following May.No fewer than 78 storagecleiteanexist onStac an Arminand a smallbothy.A small bothy exists on the precipitousStac Leetoo, also used by fowlers.

Fauna and flora

Wildlife

See also:Flora and fauna of the Outer Hebrides

Soayshrouded in mist

St Kilda is a breeding ground for many importantseabirdspecies. One of the world's largest colonies ofnorthern gannets,totalling 30,000 pairs, amount to 24 per cent of the global population. There are 49,000 breeding pairs ofLeach's petrels,up to 90 per cent of the European population; 136,000 pairs ofAtlantic puffins,about 30 per cent of the UK total breeding population, and 67,000northern fulmarpairs, about 13 per cent of the UK total.Dùn is home to the largest colony offulmarsinBritain.Before 1828, St Kilda was their only UK breeding ground, but they have since spread and established colonies elsewhere, such asFowlsheugh.The lastgreat auk(Pinguinus impennis) seen in Britain was killed on Stac an Armin in July 1840.Unusual behaviour by St Kilda'sbonxieswas recorded in 2007 during research into recent falls in the Leach's petrel population. Using night-vision gear, ecologists observed the skuas hunting petrels at night, a remarkable strategy for a seabird.The St Kilda archipelago has been recognised as anImportant Bird Area(IBA) byBirdLife Internationalfor itsseabirdcolonies.

Two wild animal taxa are unique to St Kilda: theSt Kilda wren(Troglodytes troglodytes hirtensis), which is a subspecies of theEurasian wren,and a subspecies ofwood mouseknown as theSt Kilda field mouse(Apodemus sylvaticus hirtensis). A third taxonendemicto St Kilda, a subspecies ofhouse mouseknown as theSt Kilda house mouse(Mus musculus muralis), vanished entirely after the departure of human inhabitants, as it was strictly associated with settlements and buildings.It had several traits in common with a sub-species (Mus musculus mykinessiensis) found onMykinesisland in theFaroe Islands.Thegrey seal(Halichoerus grypus) now breeds on Hirta but did not do so before the 1930 evacuation.

The archipelago's isolation has resulted in a lack ofbiodiversity.The most successfulcolonistswith nearly two hundred species are thefliesfollowed bybeetleswith approximately 140 species. There are nobeeson the islands, so flies are probably importantpollinatorsof plants. One beetle, the rare and endangeredweevil,Ceutorhynchus insularis,is known from onlyDùnand theWestmann Islands,an archipelago off the south-west coast ofIceland.Less than one hundred species ofbutterflyandmothoccur, compared to 367 recorded on theWestern Isles.Red admiral(Vanessa atalanta) andpainted lady(Vanessa cardui) are two of only seven species of butterflies, both well known and commonmigrants.Common summer moths are theantler(Cerapteryx graminis),dark arches(Apamea monoglypha) and the migrantsilver Y(Autographa gamma). One unusual moth recorded is theleast carpet(Idaea rusticata), an occasional migrant, and in the UK, usually recorded in the south-east of England.On 4 September 2014 a rarevagrantoleander hawk-moth(Daphnis nerii) was recorded.Oleander is not found in the UK every year, and the larva has never been recorded in Britain.

Its plant life is heavily influenced by island's natural environment such as the salt spray, strong winds and acidicpeatysoils. No trees grow on the archipelago, although there are more than 130 different flowering plants, 162 species offungiand 160bryophytes.Several rarities exist amongst the 194lichenspecies.Kelpthrives in the surrounding seas, which contain a diversity of unusual marine invertebrates.TheSt Kilda dandelion(Taraxacum pankhurstianum) is an endemic species ofdandelion,identified in 2012.

The beach at Village Bay is unusual in that its short stretch of summer sand recedes in winter, exposing the large boulders on which it rests. A survey of the beach in 1953 found only a single resident species, the crustaceanisopodEurydice pulchra.

Soay sheep

Soayramon Hirta

On the inaccessible island of Soay are sheep of a unique type, which lived asferalanimals and belonged to the owner of the islands, not to the islanders. TheseSoay sheepare believed to be remnants of the earliest sheep kept in Europe in theNeolithic Era,and are small, short-tailed, usually brown with white bellies, and have naturallymoultingfleeces. About 200 Soay sheep remain on Soay itself, and soon after the evacuation a second feral population of them was established on Hirta, which at that time had no sheep; in 1994 these numbered between 600 and 1,700.A few Soays have been exported to form breeding populations in other parts of the world, where they are valued for their hardiness, small size and unusual appearance.On Hirta and Soay, the sheep prefer thePlantagopastures, which grow well in locations exposed tosea sprayand include red fescue (Festuca rubra), sea plantain (Plantago maritima) and sea pink (Armeria maritima).

The St Kildans kept up to 2,000 of a different type of sheep on the islands of Hirta and Boreray. These were a Hebridean variety of theScottish Dunface,a primitive sheep probably similar to those kept throughout Britain during theIron Age.During the evacuation, all the islanders' sheep were removed from Hirta, but those on Boreray were left to become feral. These sheep are now regarded as a breed in their own right, theBoreray.The Boreray is one of the rarest British sheep and is one of the few remaining descendants of theDunface(although someScottish Blackfaceblood was introduced in the nineteenth century).

Nature conservation

On his death on 14 August 1956, theMarquess of Bute's will bequeathed the archipelago to theNational Trust for Scotlandprovided they accepted the offer within six months. After much soul-searching, the executive committee agreed to do so in January 1957. The slow renovation and conservation of the village began, much of it undertaken by summer volunteer work parties.In addition, scientific research began on the feral Soay sheep population and other aspects of the natural environment. In 1957 the area was designated anational nature reserve.

In 1986 the islands became the first place in Scotland to be inscribed as aUNESCOWorld Heritage Site,for its terrestrial natural features.In 2004, the WHS was extended to include a large amount of the surrounding marine features as well as the islands themselves.In 2005 St Kilda became one of only two dozen global locations to be awarded mixed World Heritage Status for both "natural" and "cultural" significance. The islands share this honour with internationally important sites such asMachu PicchuinPeru,Mount Athosin Greece and the Ukhahlamba/Drakensberg Parkin South Africa.

St Kilda is aScheduled Ancient Monument,aNational Scenic Area,aSite of Special Scientific Interest,and was a European UnionSpecial Protection Area.Visiting yachts may find shelter in Village Bay, but those wishing to land are told to contact the National Trust for Scotland in advance. Concern exists about the introduction of non-native animal and plant species into such a fragile environment.In 2008 the National Trust for Scotland received the support of Scotland'sMinister for Environment,Michael Russellfor their plan to ensure no rats came ashore from theSpinningdale,a UK-registered/Spanish-owned fishing vessel which grounded on Hirta. There was concern that bird life on the island could be seriously affected.Fortunately, potential contaminants from the vessel including fuel, oils, bait and stores were successfully removed by Dutch salvage companyMammoetbefore the bird breeding season in early April.

St Kilda's marine environment of underwater caves, arches and chasms, offers a very challenging but superlative diving experience.Such is the power of the North Atlantic swell that the effects of the waves can be detected 70 metres (230 ft) below sea level.

See also

• Mingulay– the "near St Kilda"
• John Sands,a Scottish journalist mockingly described by his enemies as "the MP for St Kilda"
• Scarp– a Hebridean island that had a "parliament" similar to St Kilda's
• North Rona– most remote island in the UK
• World Heritage Sites in Scotland
• List of outlying islands of Scotland
• List of Important Bird Areas in the United Kingdom

References

• Baxter, Colin and Crumley, Jim (1998)St Kilda: A portrait of Britain's remotest island landscape,Biggar, Colin Baxter PhotographyISBN0-948661-03-8
• Buchanan, Margaret (1983)St Kilda: a Photographic Album,W. Blackwood,ISBN0-85158-162-5

• Coates, Richard(1990).The Place-Names of St Kilda: Nomina Hirtensia.Lewiston, New York:Edwin Mellen Press.ISBN0-88946-077-9.
• Fraser Darling, F.,andBoyd, J.M.(1969)Natural History in the Highlands and Islands,London, BloomsburyISBN1-870630-98-X
• Fleming, Andrew (2005).St. Kilda and the Wider World: Tales of an Iconic Island.Windgather Press.ISBN1-905119-00-3.
• Harvie-Brown, J.A. and Buckley, T. E. (1888),A Vertebrate Fauna of the Outer Hebrides.Pub. David Douglas., Edinburgh.
• Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004).The Scottish Islands.Edinburgh: Canongate.ISBN978-1-84195-454-7.
• Keay, J., and Keay, J. (1994)Collins Encyclopaedia of Scotland,London, HarperCollinsISBN0-00-255082-2
• Maclean, Charles (1977)Island on the Edge of the World: the Story of St. Kilda,Edinburgh, CanongateISBN0-903937-41-7
• MacGregor, Alasdair Alpin(1969)The Farthest Hebrides,London, Michael Joseph Ltd.ISBN0-7181-0691-1
• Martin, Martin(1703) "A Voyage to St. Kilda"inA Description of The Western Islands of Scotland,Appin Regiment/Appin Historical Society. Retrieved 3 March 2007
• Monro, Sir Donald(1549)Description of the Western Isles of Scotland.William Auld. Edinburgh - 1774 edition.
• Murray, W.H.(1966).The Hebrides.London: Heinemann.
• de Nicolay, Nicholas (1583).Vraye & exacte description Hydrographique des costes maritimes d'Escosse & des Isles Orchades Hebrides avec partie d'Angleterre & d'Irlande servant a la navigation.Edinburgh:National Library of Scotland.Archivedfrom the original on 17 January 2020.Retrieved14 September2019.
• Quine, David (2000)St Kilda,Grantown-on-Spey, Colin Baxter Island GuidesISBN1-84107-008-4
• Steel, Tom (1988)The Life and Death of St. Kilda,London, FontanaISBN0-00-637340-2
• Taylor, A. B.(1968)."The Norsemen in St. Kilda".Saga-Book.17.JSTOR/Viking Society for Northern Research: 116–144.JSTOR48613119.Retrieved24 March2024.
• Watson, William J.(1926).The History of the Celtic Place-Names of Scotland.Edinburgh and London: William Blackwood and Sons.
• Williamson, Kenneth;& Boyd, J. Morton. (1960).St Kilda Summer.London. Hutchinson.

Further reading

• Atkinson, RobertIsland going to the remoter isles, chiefly uninhabited, off the north-west corner of Scotland,William Collins, 1949. (Reprinted Birlinn, 1995ISBN1-874744-31-9)
• Charnley, BobLast Greetings of St. Kilda,Richard Stenlake, 1989ISBN1-872074-02-2
• Coates, RichardThe Place-Names of St. Kilda,Lewiston, New York:Edwin Mellen Press,1990ISBN0-88946-077-9
• Crichton, Torcuil (26 June 2005) "The Last of the St Kildans". Glasgow.Sunday Herald.A report of a surviving St Kildan re-visiting the islands.
• Gilbert, O.The Lichen Hunters.St Kilda: Lichens at the Edge of the World, The Book Guild Ltd., England, 2004ISBN1-85776-930-9
• Gillies, Donald John, and Randall, John (Editor)The Truth about St Kilda. An Islander's Memoir,John Donald, Edinburgh, 2010ISBN978-1-906566-07-4
• Harden, Jill and Lelong, Olivia "Winds of Change, the Living Landscapes of Hirta, St Kilda", Edinburgh, Society of Antiquaries of Scotland 2011ISBN978-0-903903-29-5
• Harman, MaryAn Isle Called Hirte: History and Culture of St. Kilda to 1930,MacLean Press, 1996ISBN1-899272-03-8
• Kearton, RichardWith Nature and a Camera,Cassell and Company, London, 1898
• Macaulay, Kenneth (1764),The History of St Kilda,T Becket and P A De Hondt, London (Internet Archive)
• Macauley, Margaret (2009)The Prisoner of St Kilda: The true story of the unfortunate Lady Grange,Edinburgh, LuathISBN978-1-906817-02-2
• McCutcheon, CampbellSt. Kilda: a Journey to the End of the World,Tempus, 2002ISBN0-7524-2380-0
• Stell, Geoffrey P., and Mary HarmanBuildings of St Kilda,RCAHMS,1988ISBN0-11-493391-X

Fiction

• Altenberg, Karin (2011)Island of Wings,Penguin,ISBN978-0-14-312066-7

External links

• 1930 – evacuation of St Kilda(29 August 1930)National Library of Scotlandreprint of report fromThe Times.London. Retrieved 28 December 2007.
• Digitised manuscript map ofSt Kildadrawn by the Scottish civil engineerRobert Stevensonin approximately 1818
• Archive films about St Kildafrom theScottish Screen ArchiveatNational Library of Scotland
• abandonedcommunities.co.ukRetrieved 28 December 2007.
• Revised nomination of St Kilda for inclusion on the World Heritage Site ListArchived3 July 2007 at theWayback Machine(January 2003) (pdf) Retrieved 28 December 2007. Includes a detailed map.
• "Revised Nomination of St Kilda for inclusion in the World Heritage Site List".(12 May 2003) TheScottish Executive.Retrieved 28 December 2007.
• "St Kilda – Death of an Island Republic"Utopia Britannica: British Utopian Experiments 1325 – 1945. Retrieved 28 December 2007.
• "St Kilda"National Trust for Scotland. Retrieved 28 December 2007.
• Protected Planet Factsheet about St KildaArchived27 February 2014 at theWayback Machine
• The cleitean of the St Kilda Archipelago.An architectural and historical account by Christian Lassure. Retrieved 28 December 2007.
• St Kilda (Hirta) National Nature Reserve, United Kingdom
• Abandonment of St Kilda recalledBBC News 28 August 2009
• St Kilda: A Wildlife Mystery
• St. Kilda, Its People and Birds (1908) – extract
• St Kilda: Britain's Loneliest Isle (1928)
• Obituary of Norman John Gillies, the last voice of St Kilda, died on 29 September 2013, aged 88. The Economist.