Taffeta
Taffeta(archaically spelledtaffetyortaffata) is a crisp, smooth,plain wovenfabric made fromsilk,nylon,cuprammonium rayons,acetate,orpolyester.The word came into Middle English via Old French and Old Italian, which borrowed thePersianwordtāfta(تافته), which means "silk" or "linen cloth".[1]As clothing, it is used inball gowns,wedding dresses,andcorsets,and in interior decoration, for curtains or wallcovering. It tends to yield a stiff cloth with a starched appearance that holds its shape better than many other fabrics and does not sag or drape.[2][3]
Silk taffeta is of two types: yarn-dyed and piece-dyed. Piece-dyed taffeta is often used inliningsand is quite soft. Yarn-dyed taffeta is much stiffer and is often used in evening dresses.Shot silktaffeta was one of the most highly-sought forms ofByzantine silk,and may have been the fabric known aspurpura.[4]
Production
[edit]Modern taffeta was first woven in Italy and France and until the 1950s in Japan.Warp-printedtaffeta orchiné,mainly made in France from the 18th century onwards, is sometimes called "pompadour taffeta" afterMadame de Pompadour.[5]Today, most raw silk taffeta is produced in India and Pakistan. There, even in the modern period,handloomshave been widely used, but since the 1990s, taffeta has been largely produced on mechanicalloomsin theBangalorearea. From the 1970s until the 1990s, theJiangsuprovince of China produced fine silk taffetas: these were less flexible than those from Indian mills, however, and the latter continue to dominate production. Other countries in South-East and Western Asia also produce silk taffeta, but these products tend not yet to be equal in quality or competitiveness to those from India.[citation needed]
Historical and current uses
[edit]Taffeta has seen use for purposes other than clothing fabric, including the following:
- On November 4, 1782, taffeta was used byJoseph Montgolfierof France to construct a small, cube-shapedballoon.This was the beginning of many experiments using taffeta balloons by the Montgolfier brothers, and led to the first known human flight in a lighter-than-air craft.[6]
- Synthetic fibre forms of taffeta have been used to simulate the structure of blood vessels.[7]
- Tabby catswere so named in the 1600s because of their resemblance to atabby,a type of striped silk taffeta.[8]
- It was associated withprostitutionduring theEnglish Renaissance.[9]Examples include the references inWilliam Shakespeare's plays: "As fit as tengroatsis for the hand of an attorney, as yourFrench crownfor your taffeta punk, "says the Clown inAll's Well That Ends Well;Prince Hal's reference toSir John Falstaff's "fair hot wench in flame-coloured taffeta" inHenry IV, Part 1;Boyet's dismissal of "Beauties no richer than rich taffeta" inLove's Labour's Lost;and Feste's insult inTwelfth Night, or What You Will,"The tailor make thy doublet of changeable taffeta, for thy mind is a very opal."
- Marcelineis a related fabric.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^"The American Heritage Dictionary entry: taffeta".www.ahdictionary.com.HarperCollins Publishers.RetrievedApril 13,2023.
- ^Shaeffer, Claire (2008).Claire Shaeffer's fabric sewing guide(2nd ed.). Cincinnati, Ohio: Krause Publications. p.246.ISBN9781440223426.
- ^Stevenson, Angus, ed. (2010).Oxford dictionary of English(3rd ed.). New York, NY: Oxford University Press. p. 1286.ISBN9780199571123.
- ^Dodwell, C.R.;Anglo-Saxon Art, A New Perspective,pp. 145-150, 1982, Manchester UP,ISBN0-7190-0926-X(US edn. Cornell, 1985)
- ^Fukai, Akiko (2002).Fashion: the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute: a history from the 18th to the 20th century.Köln [etc.]:Taschen.p. 56.ISBN9783822812068.
- ^Gillispie, Charles Coulston (1983).The Montgolfier Brothers and the Invention of Aviation 1783-1784.Princeton University Press. pp. 15, 16 and 21.ISBN9780691641157.
- ^PIERPONT H; BLADES B (September 1957). "Heat sealed dacron taffeta blood vessel replacement".Surg Gynecol Obstet.105(3): 370–4.PMID13467673.
- ^"Entry for tabby".Online Etymology Dictionary.Douglas Harper.Retrieved31 July2018.
- ^David Scott Kastan(ed.). William Shakespeare.King Henry IV, Part 1.Arden ShakespeareThird Series. London:Thompson Learning,2002, 150.
- Dictionary of Textiles,Louis Harmuth. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915, p. 184 (reprinted by Kessinger Publishing, 2010,ISBN978-1-161-77823-6)