Magua (clothing)
 A Chinese laborer wearing amaguapainted by Pierre-Louis Delaval | |
| Type | Jacket |
|---|---|
| Place of origin | Chinese-speaking world,China |
Themagua(Manchu:ᠣᠯᠪᠣolbo,simplified Chinese:Mã quái;traditional Chinese:Mã quái) was a style of jacket worn by males during theQing dynasty(1644–1911), designed to be worn together with and over themanshi changshan(Mãn thức trường sam) as part of theQizhuang.Magua is at waist length, with five disc buttons on the front and slightly short, wide sleeves. The garment was available in a number of styles: singlet (Chinese:Đan;pinyin:dān), clip (Chinese:Giáp;pinyin:jiá), leather (Chinese:Bì;pinyin:pí), cotton yarn (Chinese:Sa;pinyin:shā), quilted (Miên;mián) and others. It was worn byManchu peoplethroughout China from the reign of the QingShunzhi Emperor(r. 1643–1661) until the time of theKangxi Emperor,(r. 1661–1722),[1]whence it became popular throughout Qing China.
Rendered literally in English as "riding jacket", the magua had its origins as a simpletabard-like item of clothing intended to protect thechangshanduring riding and normal everyday activities. However, with time the magua itself became more elaborate, becoming for officials part of their uniform of office; one variation of the magua, theimperial yellow jacket,becoming an indication of Imperial approval of an individual.
The magua is considered the predecessor of thebalsam jacket(Phượng tiên trang,fèngxiān zhuāng)[2][3]and thetangzhuang.
In Chinese culture
[edit]Tujia minority
[edit]Tujiais one of the 56 recognized ethnic groups in China. Both men and women mainly wear skirts and jackets, favoring colors such as black and blue. After the 1730s, men and women started to wear clothes that would help differentiate their gender.[4]The magua, buttoned at the center front, is worn by men over the blue long robe. It can be worn formally in black or informally in colors of red, green or gray, with wide trousers usually in a different color, often white. Men would tie sashes around their waist band to help them carry tools or accessories and wear white or black turbans. Women, on the other hand, wore wide short sleeved, long gowns that button on the left side, with decorative elements at the edge of the sleeves and the collar, accompanied with abafu luoqun (or skirt of eight widths) made of red and black checked silk, embroidered with flowers or other designs.[4]
Magua is also associated with social status, as men tried to incorporate the dress etiquettes from the Han period. The magua is accompanied by fur coats, silk gowns and skull caps. By the early 1950s, the popularity of the style decreased.
Types of Magua
[edit]- Huang magua(yellow magua)
Regional variations
[edit]Burmesetaikpon
[edit]
Thetaikpon eingyi(တိုက်ပုံအင်္ကျီ), atraditionaljacket forBurmesemen, is a descendant of themagua.[5]This costume began to gain currency during the lateKonbaung dynasty[6]and became a requisite article of traditional formal attire during the colonial era.[7]
Koreanmagoja
[edit]Themagoja,a type of long jacket worn withhanbok,the traditional clothing of Korea, is a descendant of themagua,having been introduced to Koreans afterHeungseon Daewongun,father ofKing Gojong,returned from political exile inManchuriain 1887.[8][9]
See also
[edit]- Qizhuang- Manchu clothing
- Burmese clothing
- Cheongsam
- Chinese clothing
- Tangzhuang
References
[edit]- ^Viên kiệt anh phưởng thẩm trăn. Trung quốc kỳ bào(in Chinese). Trung quốc phưởng chức xuất bản xã. 2000.ISBN7506417073.
- ^Nickerson, Peter (2005), "Attacking the Fortress: Prolegomenon to the Study of Ritual Efficacy in Vernacular Daoism",Scriptures, Schools, and Forms of Practice in Daoism: A Berlin Symposium,Asien- und Afrika-Studien der Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin,No. 20, Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz Verlag, pp. 117–185,ISBN9783447051712.
- ^Cheng Hong-sheng (2008), "The Qipao, the Western Dress, and the Taiwanese Shan: Images from 100 Years of Taiwanese Clothing", in Jiang Yajoo (ed.),Inter-Asia Cultural Studies,vol. 9, Abingdon: Routledge, pp. 300–323.
- ^abWu, Xu (2010), "Tujia National Minority",East Asia,vol. 6, Berg Publishers, pp. 225–229,doi:10.2752/bewdf/edch6037,ISBN9781847888495
- ^Kyaw Win, U; Turnell, Sean (2016).My Conscience: An Exile's Memoir of Burma.Wipf & Stock Publishers. p. 5.ISBN978-1-4982-8271-0.Retrieved2018-03-01.
Thetaik pon eingyi[jacket] is of Chinese origin.
- ^"An unidentified minister of King Thibaw".Lost Footsteps.Retrieved2020-12-07.
- ^"The origin of today's Myanmar men's outfit".Lost Footsteps.Retrieved2020-12-07.
- ^"Men's Clothing".Life in Korea.Retrieved2008-11-01.
- ^마고자(in Korean).Empas/Britannica.Retrieved2008-11-01.
