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Textile performance,also known asfitness for purpose,is atextile's capacity to withstand various conditions, environments, and hazards, qualifying it for particular uses. The performance of textile products influences their appearance, comfort, durability, and protection. Different textile applications (automotive,clothing,sleepwear,workwear,sportswear,upholstery,andPPE) require a different set of performance parameters. As a result, the specifications determine the level of performance of a textile product.Textile testingcertifies the product's conformity to buying specification. It describes product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes, where fitness for purpose is the primary criterion.[1][2]Engineeringofhigh-performance fabricspresents a unique set of challenges.[1][3]

The fitness for purpose of textile products is an important consideration for both producers and buyers. Producers, distributors and retailers favor the expectations of the target market, and fashion their wares accordingly.[4][5][6][7][8]

Serviceability in textiles[edit]

A modern umbrella fabric has specific requirements forcolour fastnessto light, water and wet rubbing, and permeability

Serviceability in textiles or Performance is the ability of textile materials to withstand various conditions, environments, and hazards. The term "serviceability" refers to a textile product's ability to meet the needs of consumers. The emphasis is on knowing the target market and matching the needs of the target market to the product's serviceability.

Concepts of serviceability in textiles[edit]

Aesthetics, durability, comfort and safety, appearance retention, care, environmental impact, and cost are the serviceability concepts employed in structuring the material.[9][5]

Aesthetics[edit]

Aestheticsimply the appearance and attraction of textile products; it includes thecolorandtextureof thematerial.[9]

Durability[edit]

Durability in textiles refers to the product's capacity to endure use; the amount of time the product is regarded adequate for the intended application.[9]

Comfort[edit]

Burberryadvertisement for waterproof gabardine suit, 1908

The performance of textiles extends to functionality through comfort and protection. The term "comfort" (or "being comfortable" ) refers to a state of physical or psychological well-being—our perceptions, physiological, social, and psychological requirements are all part of it. After food, It is the clothing that satisfies these comfort needs.[10] Clothing provides comfort on a number of levels, including aesthetic, tactile, thermal, moisture, and pressure.[11]

  • Aesthetic comfort: Aesthetic comfort is associated with visual perception that is influenced by color, fabric construction, finish, style, garment fit, and fashion compatibility. Comfort on an aesthetic level is necessary for psychological and social well-being.[12][13][14]
  • Thermoregulation in humansand thermophysiological comfort: Thermophysiological comfort is the capacity of the clothing material that makes the balance of moisture and heat between the body and the environment. It is a property of textile materials that creates ease by maintaining moisture and thermal levels in a human's resting and active states. The selection of textile material significantly affects the comfort of the wearer. Different textile fibers have unique properties that make them suitable for use in various environments. Natural fibers are breathable and absorb moisture.[15][16][17][18][19][20]The major determinants that influence thermophysiological comfort are permeable construction, heat, and moisture transfer rate.[21]
    • Thermal comfort: One primary criterion for our physiological needs is thermal comfort. The heat dissipation effectiveness of clothing gives the wearer a neither very hot nor very cold feel. The optimum temperature for thermal comfort of the skin surface is between 28 and 30 degrees Celsius, i.e., a neutral temperature. Thermophysiology reacts whenever the temperature falls below or exceeds the neutral point on either side; it is discomforting below 28 and above 30 degrees.[22]Clothing maintains a thermal balance; it keeps the skin dry and cool. It helps to keep the body from overheating while avoiding heat from the environment.[23][24]
    • Moisture comfort: Moisture comfort is the prevention of a damp sensation. According to Hollies' research, it feels uncomfortable when more than "50% to 65% of the body is wet."
  • Tactilecomfort: Tactile comfort is a resistance to the discomfort related to the friction created by clothing against the body. It is related to the smoothness, roughness, softness, and stiffness of the fabric used in clothing. The degree of tactile discomfort may vary between individuals. It is possible due to various factors, including allergies, tickling, prickling, skin abrasion, coolness, and the fabric's weight, structure, and thickness. There are specific surface finishes (mechanical and chemical) that can enhance tactile comfort. Fleece sweatshirts and velvet clothing, for example. Soft, clingy, stiff, heavy, light, hard, sticky, scratchy, prickly are all terms used to describe tactile sensations.[25][26][27]
  • Pressure comfort: The comfort of the human body's pressure receptors' (present in the skin) sensory response towards clothing. Fabric with lycra feels more comfortable because of this response and superior pressure comfort. The sensation response is influenced by the material's structure: snugging, looseness, heavy, light, soft, or stiff structuring.[28][29]

Protection[edit]

The transformative power of clothes, the impact of changes in colors and style. A video on social expression through dress.

Protection in textiles refers to a large application area where the performance (of functionality) is more central than aesthetic values.

  • UV protection performance in textiles,[30]There are tests to quantify the protection values from harmfulultravioletrays.[31]
  • Flame retardanttextiles[32]
  • Water repellant performance of textiles[33]
  • Waterproofness[34]
  • Cold and wind protection textiles[34]
  • Bacteria and virus protection in textiles.[35]Antiviral textiles are a further exploitation of usingantimicrobial surfacesthat are applicable to bothnaturalandsynthetictextiles. Exhibiting antiviral properties, these surfaces may inactivate thelipid-coated viruses.[35]There are particular test methods for assessing the performance of antiviral textiles.[36]
  • Bulletproof vest

Appearance retention[edit]

The ability of a textile product to retain its appearance after being used, washed, and ironed is referred to as appearance retention.[9]

Care[edit]

The treatment necessary to maintain the appearance of textile products is referred to as care. Textile products need to be cleaned and ironed to keep their look. This includes things like how to wash them and how to dry them.[9]Care labellingfor textile products takes into account the performance of each component as well as the manufacturing methods.[37]

Cost[edit]

It is influenced by a variety of elements. The cost of a textile product includes the raw material, manufacturing, and maintenance costs.[9]

Environmental impact[edit]

Every textile product has animpact on the environment.The extent to which textiles harm the environment during manufacturing, care, and disposal is a concept of textile serviceability.[9]The substances which add performance to textiles have a severe impact on theenvironmentand onhuman health.The halogenated flame retardants, PFC treated stain repellant, and triclosan or triclocarban or silver-containing antimicrobial fabrics certainly have a lot to do with theeffluentand environment.[38][39]

Name of the substance Advantage in textile products Associated health risks and environmental impacts References
Perfluorooctanoic acid( PFOA),Polytetrafluoroethylene(Teflon) Hydrophobic effect Endocrine disruptor [40][41]
Fluorocarbon(PFC) Hydrophobic effect May cause respiratory illness [42]
Bromine Brominated flame retardant Persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic substancesmay causeNeurobehavioral disordersandEndocrine disruption [43]
SilverOrSilver nanoparticle Antimicrobial resistance Environmental impact of silver nanoparticlesand toxic effects on human health [44][45]


Fundamentally, each fiber and fabric has distinct properties, and they are chosen based on their suitability for fitness for purpose.[46][47][48]Users have five basic criteria for performance, including appearance, comfort, durability, maintenance, and cost.[49]These performance expectations are not the same as those of specialist textiles. Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested in order to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements. A few examples of different areas are:

Car section or part Fabric consumption in square meters[53] Material[54] Properties of fibers Performance expectations from the material used[54]
Airbags 3.5 Nylon coated with silicone or neoprene from inside Strong, elastic, tough and stable in terms ofshrinkage Capability of holding air when inflated and should be strong enough to withstand the impact without rupturing
Upholstery 10.0 Nylon and polyester Abrasion resistance Strong abrasion resistance to withstand the friction of sliding objects and passengers. To retain the shape and smoothness of the seats. Colors should be fast to sunlight and rubbing to sustain the exposure.
Carpet 4.0 Nylon Strong, tough and abrasion resistant Strong enough to stand friction, the material must be tough and resilient
Trunk 4.0–5.0 Nylon Strong, tough and abrasion resistant Strong enough to stand friction, antimicrobial
Seat belts 0.5 Polyester
Headliner 4.0–6.0 Composite/blended/laminated fabric adheres to meltedpolyurethanefoam Strong, insulating Aesthetics, feel, stiffness, and sound reduction

Tensilestrength, bursting, sensorial comfort,thermal comfort,heat transfer,water repellencyMVTR,air permeability,pilling,shrinkage,fading,lightfastness,drape andhand feelare a few performance parameters.[5][55][56]


Properties[edit]

Soldiers of theCanadian ArmyinCADPATcamouflageuniforms. Camouflaged uniforms are used to make its wearers less visible. The opposite effect is desired in fashion use of camo designs
Composites are formed by combining materials together to form an overall structure with properties that differ from that of the individual components
side view of a drop of water on a gray cloth. Looks like about a 120 degree angle.
Cloth, treated to be hydrophobic, shows a highcontact angle.

Performance of textile products is primarily based on fiber and fabric structure. Fiber properties are fundamentally determined by their physical and chemical properties..[49]Specific finishing methods, functional finishes, fit, and product design could all be used to improve the overall performance of a textile product, allowing it to achieve higher performance levels.[57][58][59]

Performance has an array of characteristics that affect appearance, durability, and comfort. Performance characteristics are in-built or incorporated into the textile materials. For example,technical textilesare classified into twelve separate categories. In which the performance is predetermined, and textiles are manufactured and structured as per the application and end-use.[60]Durable water repellentis another functional finish that makes fabrics resistant to water (hydrophobic).

Clothing insulationis a property that providesthermal insulationfor the wearer.[61][62]Astain-repellentis an added property of fabrics to make themstainresistant.[63]Sun protective clothingaids in the avoidance of both light and harmful UV rays.

There is a whole panoply of properties that relate to material functionality and their use in performance fabric applications.[63]These include,inter alia:

  • Abrasion resistance,is the resistance of materials and structures to abrasion can be measured by a variety of test methods.
  • Antimicrobial,In textiles is an application of an agent that killsmicroorganismsor stops their growth.
  • Antistatic,is an application of a compound used for treatment of materials or their surfaces in order to reduce or eliminate buildup ofstatic electricity.
  • Air permeabilityis a fabric's ability to allow air to pass through it. While air permeable fabrics tend to have relatively high moisture vapor transmission, it is not compulsory to be air permeable to be breathable.
  • Breathability,the capacity of a fabric to transmit moisture vapour.
  • Biodegradable,is important for sustainability, it is the breakdown of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi.Natural fibersare easily biodegradable, hence more sustainable.
  • Bioresorbable
  • Bomb suit,is a specialized body armor for protection from explosions.
  • Colour fastness,characterizes a material'scolour's resistance tofadingorrunning.
  • Conductive
  • Crease and wrinkle resistanceare textiles that have been treated to resist external stress and hold their shape. Clothing made from this fabric does not need to be ironed and may be sold as non-iron, no-iron, wash and wear, durable press, and easy care. While fabric cleaning and maintenance may be simplified, some wearers experience decreased comfort.
  • Dimensional stability (fabric),also known as shrinkage in fabrics is the change of dimensions intextile productswhen they arewashedor relaxed.
  • Durable water repellent,is a functional finish to make fabrics water-resistant (hydrophobic).
  • Enhancedcoloration
  • Flame and heat resistance,are textiles that are moreresistant to firethan others through chemical treatment or manufacturedfireprooffibers.
  • FluorescenceFluorescent compounds are often used to enhance the appearance of fabric and paper, causing a "whitening" effect. In this scenario, an optical brightener can make an already-white surface appear brighter. The blue light emitted by the brightener compensates for the diminishing blue of the treated material and changes the hue away from yellow or brown and toward white. Optical brighteners are used in laundry detergents, high brightness paper, cosmetics, high-visibility clothing and more.
  • Hand feel,the property offabricsrelated to thetouchthat expresssensorycomfort. It refers to the way fabrics feel against the skin or in the hand and conveys information about the cloth's softness and smoothness.
  • Heated clothingis a type of clothing designed for cold-weather sports and activities, such as motorcycle riding, downhill skiing, diving, winter biking, and snowmobiling, trekking and for outdoor workers such as construction workers and carpenters.
  • High-visibility clothingis a type of safety clothing.
  • Hydrophilicity
  • Hydrophobicity
  • Light responsive,Light reflective
  • Luminescence
  • Oleophobicity
  • Pillingis generally considered an undesirable trait. There are applications that can resist pilling ( a surface defect of textiles) caused by wearing.
  • Racing suitis a kind of fire suit due to itsfire retardantproperties, is clothing such asoverallsworn in various forms ofauto racingbyracing drivers,crew members.
  • Reinforcement
  • Sauna suitis a garment made from waterproof fabric designed to make the wearer sweat profusely.
  • Space suitis a garment worn to keep a human alive in the harsh environment ofouter space,vacuumand temperature extremes.
  • Stain resistanceis a property of fabrics in which they repel stains.
  • Thermal insulation
  • Thermal responsive
  • Ultrafiltration
  • Ultravioletresistance[63]
  • Waterproof fabricsare those that are naturally resistant to water and wetting, or have been treated to be so.

Fiber properties—built in (natural) properties[edit]

In terms of performance, wool has been advertised as a "miracle fabric"[38][64][65]as it naturally possesses a variety of functional properties, including stretch, warmth, water absorption, flame retardance, and the ability to wick away body moisture.[66][67]Additionally, Merino wool has the ability to protect from harmful UV rays.[68][69]Naturalandsynthetic fibershave various properties that influence the final textile performance. Most of the natural fibers are suited for comfort, where synthetics are better for aesthetics and durability.

Added or additional properties[edit]

Additional properties are properties other than the inherent properties of the textiles which are specifically added in accordance with the specific needs. They may be added during differenttextile manufacturingsteps from fiber to fabric.

High-performance fibers[edit]

High-performance fibers are specifically synthesized to achieve unique properties such as higher heat resistance, exceptional strength, high strength-to-weight ratio, stiffness, tensile strength, chemical or fire resistance.[71]These high-performance fibers are used in protective clothing (PPE) with exceptional characteristics like chemical resistance and fire resistance.[72]

  • Aramidfiber, namelyKevlar,a strong, abrasion-resistant, durable material with high performance. Fiber and fabric engineering can optimize the functionality of the materials.[73]Kevlar andNomexwhich is a flame-resistantmeta-aramid material, are used together inadvanced bomb suits.The suit helpsbomb disposalsoldiers from threats associated withimprovised explosive devices,including those related to fragmentation, blast overpressure, impact, heat, and flame.
  • Carbon fibershave several advantages including high stiffness, high tensile strength, low weight to strength ratio, high chemical resistance, high temperature tolerance and low thermal expansion.[74][75]
  • Polybenzimidazole fiber,also known as PBI, has high thermal stability, flame resistance, and moisture recovery, making it suitable for use in protective clothing. PBI are usually yellow to brown solid infusible up to 400 °C or higher.[76]PBI is also used inSpace suits.In 1969, theUnited States Air Forceselected polybenzimidazole (PBI) for its superior thermal protective performance after a 1967 fire aboard theApollo 1spacecraft killed three astronauts.[77]In the early 1970s USAF laboratories experimented with polybenzimidazole fibers forprotective clothingto reduce aircrew deaths from fires.[78]
  • Silicon carbide fiber composed ofSilicon carbideis used for bulletproof vests.
  • UHMWPE (Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene) is a high abrasion and wear resistance material suitable for durability, low friction, and chemical resistance.[72]

Finishing methods[edit]

Finishingimproves appearance and performance.[79]

Finish[edit]

Textile finishing is the process of converting the loomstate or raw goods into a useful product, which can be done mechanically or chemically. Finishing is a broad term that refers to a variety of physical and chemical techniques and treatments that finish one stage of textile production while also preparing for the next. Textile finishing can include aspects like improving surface feel, aesthetical enhancement, and adding advanced chemical finishes.[80]A finish is any process that transformsunfinished productsinto finished products.[81] This includes mechanical finishing and chemical applications which alter the composition of treated textiles (fiber, yarn or fabric.) Mechanical finish purportsmachinefinishes such as embossing,heat setting,sanforizing,sheering, various, luster imparting, surface finishes, and glaze finishes.[82][83]

Chemical finishingrefers to the process of applying and treating textiles with a variety of chemicals in order to achieve desired functional properties. Chemical finishing of textiles is a part of thetextile finishing processwhere the emphasis is onchemical substancesinstead of mechanical finishing.[84][85]Chemical finishing in textiles also known as wet finishing.[86]Chemical finishing adds properties to the treated textiles. These properties may vary from Normal to Advanced or High Tech. Softening of textiles, durable water repellancy and wrinkle free fabric finishes are examples of chemical finishing.[84][87][85]

Cravenette was an old chemical finish of the early 20th century that makes cloths water repellant.[88][89][90][91][92]

Functional finishes or special purpose finishes[edit]

The first modern waterproof raincoat was created following the patent by ScottishchemistCharles Macintoshin 1824 of newtarpaulinfabric, described by him as "India rubber cloth," and made by sandwiching a rubber softened bynaphthabetween two pieces of fabric.[93][94]Application of performance finishes are not a new concept;Oilclothis the first knowncoated fabric.Boiling linseed oil is used to make oilcloth. Boiling oils have been used from the year 200 AD.[95]The "special purpose finishes" or ''Performance finishes'' are that improve the performance of textiles for a specific end-use.[96]Performance finishing contributes to a variety of areas. These finishes enable treated textiles with different characteristics, which may be opposite to their natural or inherent nature. Functional finishes add value other than handfeel and aesthetics.[4][5]Certain finishes can alter the performance suiting for thermal comfort (thermal regulation), antimicrobial, UV protection, easy care (crease resistant cotton fabrics), and insect repellant etc.[97]

Nanotechnology[edit]

Nanotechnology in textiles is a branch ofnano-sciencein which molecular systems at the nano-scale of size (1–100Nanometre) are applied in the field of textiles to improve performance or add functions to textiles. Nanotechnology unites a variety of scientific fields, such as materialscience,physics,chemistry,biologyandengineering.For example:Nanocoating (of microscopically structured surfaces fine enough to interfere withvisible light) in textiles forbiomimeticsis the new method ofstructural colorationwithoutdyes.[98][99][100][101][102][103][104][105][106]

See furtherNanofabrics

Surface tension biomimetics[edit]

Surface tension biomimeticsis a phenomenon of exploitation of biomimetics properties to create functional effects such asshark skin,andlotus leafthat have the ability to repel water and self-cleaning. In textiles, surfaces with hydrophobic or hydrophilic properties are formed with the help of coatings and applied finishes.[107][108]

Surface treatments[edit]

Certain technologies can alter the surface characterizations of textiles.

Plasma[edit]

Plasmais a highly reactive state that activates the substrate, and the oxidized surface of theplasma-treated textileimprovesdyeingwhile reducing environmental impacts. Plasma can also be used to treat textiles to obtain waterproofing and oil repellent properties. Different gases in the same fiber may have other effects, and various gases are chosen for different results.[109]

Plasma process with By usingchemical element Result on treated textile[109]
Noble gas Helium,argon Etching
Oxidizing Oxygen,carbon dioxide,water Cleaning, functionalisation and etching
Hydrocarbon Nitrogenoroxygencontaining hydrocarbons Plasma polymerization

Laser[edit]

Light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation (laser) irradiation is used to modify the structural and surface properties of textiles, as well as to texturize them.[109]

3D textiles[edit]

Main article:3D textiles

3D textiles are used in versatile applications, like military textiles, bulletproof jackets, protective clothing, manufacturing 3D composites, and medical textiles. Examples include 3D spacer fabrics, which are used in treating a wound.[110]

Testing standards[edit]

Standards vary with the use and application areas. Military textiles, industrial textiles have separate tests to analyze performance in extreme conditions.[111][112]TheAmerican National Standards Instituteapproves the textile performance standards set byASTM International.[113]Other testing agencies or bodies which are recognized or accepted as international standards depending on the contracts:[50]

Standards organisation
ASTM ASTM International
AATCC American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
BS British Standards
ISO International Organization for Standardization
IWTO International Wool Textile Organisation
EN European Standard
Oekotex Oeko-Tex
AS/NZS

Special test methods[edit]

The comfort performance of textiles is the foremost requirement that influences product acceptance. Following comfort, safety and protection are the top priorities.[114]Numerous tests are conducted to evaluate the performance of textiles.

Sweating guarded hot plate test[edit]

The test method evaluates the thermal resistance and water vapor permeability of fabrics, which bear on the garment's comfort.[115][116]

  • ISO 11092:2014 (the test for physiological effects — Test for measuring thermal resistance and water-vapor resistance)[117]
  • ASTM F1868 (test for measuring thermal and evaporative resistance)[118]

Breathability test[edit]

Water vapor transmission rate also calledmoisture vapor transmission rate(MVTR) is a method of testing or measuring thepermeabilityforvapor barriers.

  • ASTM F2298 – 03 (test for clothing materials such as protective clothing, laminates, and membranes) a similar test byJapanese Standards Associationis JSA – JIS L 1099.[119]

Air permeability[edit]

The air permeability test method is for measuring the ability of air to pass through textile materials.[120]

  • ASTM D737-96 alternative test method is
  • ISO 9237:1995

Moisture management test[edit]

The moisture wicking or moisture management test is for testing moisture management properties such as wicking capabilities and drying efficiencies.

  • AATCC test method 195
  • ISO 13029:2012[121]

Qmax test[edit]

The Qmax test method is used to evaluate the surface warm-cool sensations of fabric and to indicate the instantaneous thermal feeling sensed when the fabric first comes into contact with the skin surface.[122][123]

Manikin test[edit]

Athermal manikinis a device for analysing the thermal interface of the human body and its environment. It assesses thethermal comfortandinsulationproperties of clothing, such as protective gear for the military.[124][125]

Kawabata evaluation system[edit]

Kawabata evaluation systemmeasures the mechanical properties of the textiles such astensile strength,shear strength,surface friction and roughness, The Kawabata evaluation system predicts human responses and understands the perception of softness. Additionally, it can be used to determine the transient heat transfer properties associated with the sensation of coolness generated when fabrics come into contact with the skin while being worn.[126][127]



Picture gallery[edit]

Clothing serves a variety of functions in our daily lives, from the home to occupational hazards. The role of textiles in comfort, recreation, and safety. The performance aspects of textiles through images.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^E.g.,bomb suit,emergency medical,fall protection,HazMat,industrial flash fire,PASS,proximity firefighting, which requires afire proximity suit,SCBA,fire station/work uniforms,structural firefighting,thermal imaging cameras,urban search and rescueorwildland firefighting.[51]

Citations[edit]

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Bibliography[edit]

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