Turducken
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Turduckenis a dish consisting of a debonedchickenstuffed into a debonedduck,further stuffed into a debonedturkey.Outside of theUnited StatesandCanada,it is known as athree-bird roast.[1]Gooduckenis an English variant,[2]replacing turkey withgoose.
The wordturduckenis aportmanteaucombiningturkey,duck,andchicken.The dish is a form ofengastration,which is a recipe method in which one animal is stuffed inside the gastric passage of another—twofold in this instance.[3]
The thoracic cavity of the chicken/game hen and the rest of the gaps are stuffed, sometimes with a highly seasonedbreadcrumbmixture orsausagemeat, although some versions have a differentstuffingfor each bird. The result is a fairly solid layeredpoultrydish, suitable for cooking bybraising,roasting,grilling,orbarbecuing.[4]
The turducken was popularized in America byJohn Madden,who promoted the unusual dish duringNFL Thanksgiving Day gamesand, later,Monday Night Footballbroadcasts.[5]On one occasion, the commentator sawed through a turducken with his bare hand, live in the booth, to demonstrate the turducken's contents.[6][7]Madden ate his first on-air turducken on December 1, 1996, during a game between theNew Orleans SaintsandSt. Louis Ramsat theSuperdome.[8]
Origin
[edit]Credit for the creation of the turducken is uncertain, (though one of the first written mentions of a similar dish is found in the 1913 Spanish cookbookLa Cocina Española AntiguabyEmilia Pardo Bazanon page 208 recipe 320 called Guisado particular which describes a dish made by first stuffing an olive, then a small bird with it, then that stuffed bird is stuffed into another larger bird and so on sixteen times more then cook in an open flame for 24 hours.[9]). Also it is generally agreed to have been introduced by Cajun chefPaul Prudhomme.Another claimant is Hebert's Specialty Meats inMaurice, Louisiana,whose owners Junior and Sammy Hebert say they created it in 1985 "when a local man brought his own birds to their shop and asked the brothers to create the medley".[10]A predecessor to both however by decades was a New Orleans surgeon, Dr. Gerald R. LaNasa. Locally known for his use of a scalpel in deboning his three birds of choice, sometimes adding pork or veal roasts in the final hen's cavity, thus preserving the turducken tradition as a regional holiday favorite of the southern United States. Andouille sausage and Foie Gras were always key ingredients of the LaNasa creations. The results of Dr. LaNasa's work can be found in the modern day mass-produced turducken or turduckhen (another variation adding or substituting a cornish game hen). His turkey, duck, and chicken ballotine is now widely commercially available under multiple trademark names. Dr. LaNasa's innovation and success with ballotine, Three Bird Roast and turducken began mid century, expanding in the 1960s and seventies long before many of the popular commercial Cajun/Creole chefs of today took the stage.
In the United Kingdom, a turducken is a type ofballotinecalled a "three-bird roast" or a "royal roast".[citation needed]The Pure Meat Company offered a five-bird roast (a goose, a turkey, a chicken, a pheasant, and a pigeon, stuffed with sausage), described as a modern revival of the traditional Yorkshire Christmas pie, in 1989;[11][12]and a three-bird roast (a duck stuffed with chicken stuffed with a pigeon, with sage and apple stuffing) in 1990.[11][12]
Gooduckenis agoosestuffed with a duck, which is in turn stuffed with a chicken.[13]
Historical predecessors
[edit]In his 1807Almanach des Gourmands,gastronomistGrimod de La Reynièrepresents hisrôti sans pareil( "roast without equal" )—abustardstuffed with aturkey,agoose,apheasant,achicken,aduck,aguinea fowl,ateal,awoodcock,apartridge,aplover,alapwing,aquail,athrush,alark,anortolan buntingand agarden warbler—although he states that, since similar roasts were produced by ancient Romans, therôti sans pareilwas not entirely novel.[12][13][14]The final bird is very small but large enough to just hold an olive; it also suggests that, unlike modern multi-bird roasts, there was no stuffing or other packing placed in between the birds.
An early form of the recipe was "Pandora's cushion", a goose stuffed with a chicken stuffed with a quail.[14]
Another version of the dish is credited to French diplomat and gourmandCharles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord.The 1891 newspaper articleFrench Legends Of The TableoffersQuail à la Talleyrand:[15]
The following for instance, is Talleyrand's fanciful and somewhat roundabout way of roasting a quail. On a day of "inspiration gourmande" at his hotel in theRue Saint-Florentin, Paris,he composed the following recipe: Take a plump quail, seasoned with truffles, and made tender by having been put into champagne. You put it carefully inside a young Bresse chicken; then sew up the opening, and put dabs of butter all over the chicken. Again, you put the chicken inside a fine Berri turkey, and roast the turkey very carefully before a bright fire. What will be the result? All the juice of the turkey is absorbed by the fowl, and all the juice of the fowl in its turn by the quail. After two hours roasting the fowl, which in reality is composed of three fowls, is ready, and you place the steaming trinity upon a dish of fine porcelain or chiseled silver. Then you pull the chicken out of the turkey, and the quail out of the chicken. The quail? Is it correct to talk of the quail, when this delicious, perfumed dish is indeed too good for any name? You take the quail as you would some sacred relic, and serve it hot, steaming, with its aroma of truffles, after having roasted it to a golden yellow by basting it diligently with the best Gournay butter.
InHunan cuisine,the famed chefLiu SanhefromChangshainvented a dish calledsanceng taoji(Chinese:Tam tằng sáo kê), meaning "three-layer set chicken", consisting of a sparrow inside a pigeon inside a hen, along withmedicinal herbssuch asGastrodia elataandwolfberries.He originally devised the dish to alleviateLu Diping's ill concubine of headaches.[16] The bookPassion India: The Story of the Spanish Princess of Kapurthula[17](p. 295) features a section that recounts a similar dish in India in the late 1800s:
Invited by MaharajahGanga Singhto the most extraordinary of dinners, in the palace at Bikaner, when Anita asks her host for the recipe of such a succulent dish, he answers her seriously, "Prepare a whole camel, skinned and cleaned, put a goat inside it, and inside the goat a turkey and inside the turkey a chicken. Stuff the chicken with a grouse and inside that put a quail and finally inside that a sparrow. Then season it all well, place the camel in a hole in the ground and roast it.
See also
[edit]- Cockentrice– A dish consisting of a pig sewn to a chicken
- Cherpumple– A dessert inspired by Turducken
- List of duck dishes
- List of meat dishes
- Whole stuffed camel
- Matryoshka– Russia doll
References
[edit]- ^Stradley, Linda; Brenda (2015-05-01)."Turducken History and Recipe".What's Cooking America.Retrieved2024-02-03.
- ^Iredale, Will (21 November 2004)."Three in one bird is big this Christmas"– via www.thetimes.co.uk.
- ^"Engastration".Retrieved2012-12-26.
- ^"Turkey Finds Its Inner Duck (and Chicken)",The New York Times,November 20, 2002. Accessed November 21, 2007
- ^"The Story of John Madden's Legendary Turducken",USA Today,November 29, 2017. Accessed November 4, 2019
- ^"PETA Gives Madden the Bird",New York Post,November 28, 2002. Accessed November 29, 2019
- ^"John Madden - Turducken 2002 Monday Night Football Eagles vs. 49ers".YouTube.
- ^"St. Louis Rams at New Orleans Saints - December 1st, 1996".Pro-Football-Reference.com.Retrieved20 November2022.
- ^Pardo Bazan, Emilia (ed.).La Cocina Española Antigua, 1913.p. 208.
- ^Trillin, Calvin (November 2005)."Turducken Town".National Geographic.Washington. Archived fromthe originalon June 11, 2008.RetrievedMay 3,2010..Retrieved on October 13, 2016
- ^abWalker, Harlan (ed.).Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery, 1990: feasting and fasting: proceedings.p. 35.
- ^abcWilliams, Anne. "Send a friend a meal on wheels", The Sunday Times (London), December 2, 1990.
- ^abIredale, Will (November 21, 2004)."TimesOnline.co.uk Three-in-one bird is big this Christmas".The Times.London.RetrievedMay 3,2010.TimesOnline.co.uk. Retrieved on June 2, 2008
- ^ab"Pandoras Cushion".Retrieved2012-12-26.
- ^"French Legends Of The Table".The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.: 1848–1957).Melbourne, Vic.: National Library of Australia. 5 November 1891. p. 6.Retrieved22 June2013.
- ^"Truyện thống tương thái: Tam tằng sáo kê - trung quốc tại tuyến".
- ^Moro, Javier (2006).Passion India: The Story of the Spanish Princess of Kapurthala.Translated by Peter J. Hearn,, First Circle Publishing, New Delhi,ISBN8176211788
External links
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