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Lokshen

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Lokshen
Alternative namesJewish egg noodles, itriyot, lockshen, locshen, lokshyn, lockshen noodles
TypeNoodleorpasta
Place of originJewishfrom Eastern Europe. Today mostly inIsrael,theUnited States,France,Canada,United Kingdom,Australia,Argentina,South Africa,and other communities in theJewish diaspora.
Region or stateEastern Europe
AssociatedcuisineJewishIsraeli
Created byAshkenazi Jews
Main ingredientsEggs,flour,salt, less commonlywhole wheat flour,cooking oil,potato starch,matzo meal,rice flour,speltflour
VariationsFarfel

Lokshen(Yiddish:לאָקשן,lokshn), also known asItriyot(Hebrew:איטריות),locshen,lockshen,orJewish egg noodles,is the common name of a range ofAshkenazi Jewishegg noodles that are commonly used in a variety of Jewish dishes includingchicken soup,kugel,kasha varnishkes,lokshen mit kaese,and as a side dish toJewish brisket,sweet and sour meat balls, apricot chicken, and many other dishes. They may also be served with melted butter or a simple tomato sauce. In the United States, lokshen are also used as the basis for various casseroles and baked dishes includingtuna noodle casserole,and both sweet and savory lokshen kugels.

History

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"Jews eat lots of lokshen on Shabbat because noodles are symbolic of the unity of the people of Israel: They are so tangled that they can never be separated."
— Rabbi Pinchas of Koretz[1]

Origins

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Noodles are mentioned in theJerusalem Talmud(Hallah 57d, Beitza 60d), which was published circa 350 CE,[2]these were the first clear mentions of boilednoodlesin general outsideChinaaccording to food historian Charles Perry.[3][4]Chinese noodles spread via theSilk Roadto Persia where they entered the local cuisine around the 5th century CE, and Jewish merchants played a prominent role in the Silk Road trade. Noodles are later mentioned around this time in theBabylonian Talmudas "rihata" (probably related to "reshteh"), a word ofPersianorigin. Noodles were popular among the Jews of the Middle East during the first millennium CE period, and remained popular among theSephardi Jewishpopulation when they were later introduced to Italy, Spain, and Southern Europe. Pasta was popular among the Sephardi andItalian Jews,and later was popular among theFrench Jewsof Provence which had a notable population in the 12th century CE.Mizrahi Jewsalso had numerous noodle varieties of their own during the first millennium as well.[5]

Early history

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The definitive Ashkenazi noodle, lokshen, was the confluence of both Central Asian and Provençal by way of Germany influences.[5]According to Jewish food historian Rabbi Gil Marks, lokshen noodles were first made sometime around the 13th century.[6]

Modern history

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InIsrael,Lokshen as the term for "Jewish egg noodle" fell out of use in Hebrew by the mid-20th century due to the efforts ofEliezer Ben-Yehudawho in 1908 replacedlokshenwith theJudeo-Arabicitriyot,a word which slowly overtook lokshen in the Hebrew lexicon and by which they are still known by today.[7]

Overview

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Brands

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There are many brands of lokshen around the world. Common North American brands includeManischewitz,No Yolks,Gefen,Kemach,[8]Heimishe,[8]and Greenblatt's. Israeli brands of lokshen (more commonly known as itriyot) includeOsemand Meshubach. British brands of lokshen include Kleinblatt's Pure Egg and Sova Foods. Some European brands of lokshen such as Sova Foods sell their lokshen noodles in a in individual "nests", similar toChinese noodles.[9]There are also various private-label brands offering lokshen.

Types

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Extra fine

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Extra fine lokshen consist of very fine noodles similar in thickness tovermicelli,though they are often even thinner. They are very fragile and due to their fragility they are almost exclusively used inJewish chicken soup,matzo ball soup,and other Jewish soups.

Fine

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Fine lokshen are similar to extra fine, however they are slightly thicker and are more similar in thickness to vermicelli orangel hair pasta,though they sometimes are thicker than the aforementioned varieties. Like extra fine lokshen, these are typically used in various soups, however many people also use them in various lokshen kugels as the fine texture of the lokshen noodles creates a more dense consistency in kugel.[10]

Medium

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Medium lokshen are much thicker than fine egg noodles, and are somewhat similar topappardelleorChinese egg noodles,though medium egg noodles have a somewhat richer flavor due to the liberal amount of egg yolks traditionally used in their production. When boiled, medium lokshen are flat and are not wavy or curly like the varieties mentioned below. Medium Jewish egg noodles are mainly used to serve on their own dressed with a simple sauce or butter as a side dish, or they are used in a lokshen kugel, often sweet but sometimes savory varieties use medium lokshen as well.

Wide

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Wide lokshen are the most-commonly found variety of lokshen, and unlike the aforementioned varieties of lokshen; wide lokshen are somewhat curly and are not flat after cooking unlike medium lokshen. They are mainly used forlokshen kugeland other noodle casseroles liketuna noodle casserole.They are favored by some for use in noodle kugel as their width and curly texture allow the cheese or whatever accompaniment within the kugel to remain distinct from the lokshen itself and not become one contiguous dense mass, which some people prefer. Medium and fine lokshen often absorb more of the kugel batter and make more dense kugels.

Extra-wide

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Extra-wide lokshen are more curly than wide lokshen, and are somewhat wider as well. These are less popular for use in lokshen kugel due to their broad width and curly shape, however they are sometimes used in lokshen kugel. These are most commonly served as a side dish on their own or with a simple butter, margarine, or tomato-based sauce.

Broad

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Broad lokshen are similar to extra-wide except they are even wider and curlier than extra-wide lokshen and as their name suggests are the broadest variety of lokshen.

Varnishkes

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Varnishkes are a variety of lokshen that are similar in shape tobow tie pasta,except there are differences in terms of their preparation as they are made with plain flour instead of semolina, and have a higher quantity of egg yolks as is typical of Jewish egg noodles. These are used in the Jewish dishkasha varnishkes,which consists of varnishkes that are prepared withbuckwheatkasha and caramelised onions.

Passover version

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Variouskosher for passoverversions of lokshen noodles are made during the spring aroundPassoverand are either made at home, or commercially produced by various brands such asManischewitz.Kosher for Passover varieties of lokshen are typically made withpotato starchin place of the usual flour, which is not permissible for consumption during Passover according to traditionalJewish law.

Square

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In the Jewish diaspora this shape is often called "egg flakes" and is sold by brands such as Gefen and Kleinblatt's.[11]It is most often used for soup or served to children with butter. There is anIsraelivariety of square lokshen sold by brands such Meshubach, consisting of small square shape lokshen that is popular with children and for use in soups.[12]

Farfel

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Farfel, a Jewish noodle similar to lokshen

Farfel(Yiddish:פֿאַרפֿל,romanized:farfl;fromMiddle High German:varveln) is small pellet- or flake-shapedpastaused inAshkenaziJewish cuisine.It is made from egg noodle dough and is frequently toasted before being cooked. It can be served insoupsor as aside dish.In the United States, it can also be found pre-packaged asegg barley.[13]

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  • Lokshen became a slang term in Yiddish culture; the phrase "schtaffen mit lokchen" means "to stuff with noodles," that is, to feed someone an empty food, which was considered an offence inAshkenaziJewish cultureand this was metaphorically carried over toIsraeli cultureas a common Hebrew expression, as to feed someone "lokshim" means to give wrong information to intentionally confuse someone. The Hebrew phrase "ma'akhil lokshim" literally translates to "feeding lies", the expression persisted and was recently augmented with the variation, "to sell lokshim" or "limkor lokshim" with the same meaning.[7]

See also

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References

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  1. ^"The Tangled History of Noodle Kugel".My Jewish Learning.Retrieved9 September2021.
  2. ^"Babylonian and Jerusalem Talmuds".British Library.Archived fromthe originalon 23 December 2020.Retrieved9 September2021.
  3. ^"Itriya".Balashon.Retrieved9 September2021.
  4. ^"Pasta 101".
  5. ^abKatz, Jonathan (21 April 2017)."Five Myths About Medieval Cuisines – and Jewish Foods and Books to Unlearn Them".Flavors of Diaspora.Retrieved9 September2021.
  6. ^Marks, Rabbi Gil.The Encyclopedia of Jewish Food.
  7. ^abGilad, Elon."Word of the Day / Lokshim".Ha'aretz. Ha'aretz.Retrieved9 September2021.
  8. ^ab"Keimach Foods Catalog"(PDF).Keimach.Retrieved9 September2021.
  9. ^"Wide Lokshen Nests".Sova Foods.Retrieved9 September2021.
  10. ^Lawson, Nigella."Lokshen Pudding".Nigella.Retrieved9 September2021.
  11. ^"Gefen Egg Flakes".Kayco.Retrieved9 September2021.
  12. ^"Square Lokshen".Sova Foods.Retrieved9 September2021.
  13. ^Nathan, Joan.Jewish Cooking in America,Knopf: New York. 1994 (Pp. 286-87)