Outer Hebrides

"Na h-Eileanan an Iar" redirects here. For the parliamentary constituencies, seeNa h-Eileanan an Iar (Scottish Parliament constituency)andNa h-Eileanan an Iar (UK Parliament constituency).

"Long Isle" redirects here. For the American island, seeLong Island.

Outer Hebrides

Scottish Gaelicname	Na h-Eileanan Siar
Meaning of name	Western Isles
Flag ofComhairle nan Eilean Siar Coat of arms
Location
Outer Hebrides Outer Hebrides shown within Scotland
OS grid reference	NB426340
Coordinates	57.76°N 7.02°W/57.76; -7.02 ISO Code:GB-ELS
Physical geography
Area	3,056 km2(1,180 sq mi)
Highest elevation	Clisham799 m (2,621 ft)
Administration
Council area	Comhairle nan Eilean Siar
Country	Scotland
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Demographics
Population	26,120 (2022)
Population density	9/km2
Largest settlement	Stornoway

TheOuter Hebrides(/ˈhɛbrɪdiːz/HEB-rid-eez) orWestern Isles(Scottish Gaelic:na h-Eileanan Siar[nəˈhelanənˈʃiəɾ],na h-Eileanan an Iar[nəˈhelanənəɲˈiəɾ]orna h-Innse Gall,'Islands of the Strangers';Scots:Waster Isles), sometimes known as theLong IsleorLong Island(Scottish Gaelic:an t-Eilean Fada), is anisland chainoff the west coast of mainlandScotland.The islands form part of the archipelago of theHebrides,separated from the Scottish mainland and from theInner Hebridesby the waters of theMinch,theLittle Minch,and theSea of the Hebrides.The Outer Hebrides are considered to be the traditional heartland of the Gaelic language. The islands form one of the 32council areas of Scotland,which since 1998 has used only the Gaelic form of its name, including in English language contexts. The council area is calledNa h-Eileanan an Iar('the Western Isles') and its council isComhairle nan Eilean Siar('Council of the Western Isles').

Most of the islands have a bedrock formed from ancientmetamorphicrocks, and the climate is mild and oceanic. The 15 inhabited islands had a total population of 26,120 in 2022and there are more than 50 substantial uninhabited islands. The distance fromBarra Headto theButt of Lewisis roughly 210 kilometres (130 mi).

There are various important prehistoric structures, many of which pre-date the first written references to the islands byRoman and Greekauthors. The Western Isles became part of theNorsekingdom of theSuðreyjar,which lasted for over 400 years, until sovereignty over the Outer Hebrides was transferred to Scotland by theTreaty of Perthin 1266. Control of the islands was then held byclanchiefs, principal amongst whom were theMacLeods,MacDonalds,MackenziesandMacNeils.TheHighland Clearancesof the 19th century had a devastating effect on many communities, and it is only in recent years that population levels have ceased to decline. Much of the land is now under local control, and commercial activity is based on tourism,crofting,fishing, and weaving.

Sea transport is crucial for those who live and work in the Outer Hebrides, and a variety of ferry services operate between the islands and to mainland Scotland. Modern navigation systems now minimise the dangers, but in the past the stormy seas in the region have claimed many ships. The Gaelic language, religion, music and sport are important aspects of local culture, and there are numerousdesignated conservation areasto protect the natural environment.

Etymology

The earliest surviving written references relating to the islands were made byPliny the Elderin hisNatural History,in which he states that there are 30Hebudes,and makes a separate reference toDumna,which Watson (1926) concludes is unequivocally the Outer Hebrides. Writing about 80 years later, in 140–150 AD,Ptolemy,drawing on the earlier naval expeditions ofAgricola,also distinguished between theEbudes,of which he writes there were only five (and thus possibly meaning theInner Hebrides) andDumna.Dumnais cognate with theEarly Celticdumnosand means the "deep-sea isle".Pliny probably took his information fromPytheasofMassiliawho visited Britain sometime between 322 and 285 BC. It is possible that Ptolemy did as well, as Agricola's information about the west coast of Scotland was of poor quality.Breeze also suggests thatDumnamight beLewis and Harris,the largest island of the Outer Hebrides although he conflates this single island with the name "Long Island".Watson (1926) states that the meaning of Ptolemy'sEboudaiis unknown and that the root may be pre-Celtic.Murray (1966) claims that Ptolemy'sEbudaewas originally derived from theOld NorseHavbredey,meaning "isles on the edge of the sea". This idea is often repeated but no firm evidence of this derivation has emerged.

Other early written references include the flight of theNemedpeople from Ireland toDomon,which is mentioned in the 12th-centuryLebor Gabála Érennand a 13th-century poem concerningRaghnall mac Gofraidh,then the heir to the throne ofMann and the Isles,who is said to have "broken the gate ofMagh Domhna".Magh Domhnameans "the plain of Domhna (or Domon)", but the precise meaning of the text is not clear.

InIrish mythologythe islands were the home of theFomorians,described as "huge and ugly" and "ship men of the sea". They were pirates, extracting tribute from the coasts of Ireland and one of their kings wasIndech mac Dé Domnand(i.e. Indech, son of the goddess Domnu, who ruled over the deep seas).

Geography

Satellite image of Outer Hebrides

Nicolson's Leap on the east coast ofSouth Uist.In the background are Beinn Mhòr at left, and Hecla on the right.

Main article:List of Outer Hebrides

The islands form an archipelago whose major islands areLewis and Harris,North Uist,Benbecula,South Uist,andBarra.Lewis and Harris has an area of 2,178.98 square kilometres (841 sq mi)and is the largest island in Scotland and the third-largest in theBritish Isles,after Great Britain and Ireland.It incorporatesLewisin the north andHarrisin the south, both of which are frequently referred to as individual islands, although they are connected by land. The island does not have a single name in either English or Gaelic, and is referred to as "Lewis and Harris", "Lewis with Harris", "Harris with Lewis" etc.

The largest islands are deeply indented by arms of the sea such asLoch Ròg,Loch SeaforthandLoch nam Madadh.There are also more than 7,500 freshwater lochs in the Outer Hebrides, about 24% of the total for the whole of Scotland.North and South Uist and Lewis, in particular, have landscapes with a high percentage of fresh water and a maze and complexity of loch shapes. Harris has fewer large bodies of water but has innumerable small lochans.Loch Langavaton Lewis is 11 kilometres (7 mi) long, and has several large islands in its midst, includingEilean Mòr.Although Loch Suaineabhal has only 25% of Loch Langavat's surface area, it has a mean depth of 33 metres (108 ft) and is the most voluminous on the island.OfLoch SgadabhaghonNorth Uistit has been said that "there is probably no other loch in Britain which approaches Loch Scadavay in irregularity and complexity of outline."Loch Bì is South Uist's largest loch and at 8 kilometres (5 mi) long it all but cuts the island in two.

Much of the western coastline of the islands ismachair,a fertile low-lying dune pastureland.Lewis is comparatively flat, and largely consists of treeless moors of blanketpeat.The highest eminence is Mealisval at 574 m (1,883 ft) in the south west. Most ofHarrisis mountainous, with large areas of exposed rock andClisham,the archipelago's onlyCorbett,reaches 799 m (2,621 ft) in height.North and South Uist and Benbecula (sometimes collectively referred to asThe Uists) have sandy beaches and wide cultivated areas of machair to the west and virtually uninhabited mountainous areas to the east. The highest peak here isBeinn Mhòrat 620 metres (2,034 ft).The Uists and their immediate outliers have a combined area of 745.4 square kilometres (288 sq mi). This includes the Uists themselves and the islands linked to them by causeways and bridges.Barra is 58.75 square kilometres (23 sq mi) in extent and has a rugged interior, surrounded by machair and extensive beaches.

The scenic qualities of the islands are reflected in the fact that three of Scotland's fortynational scenic areas(NSAs) are located here. The national scenic areas are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development,and are considered to represent the type of scenic beauty "popularly associated with Scotland and for which it is renowned".The three NSA within the Outer Hebrides are:

• South Lewis, Harris and North Uist National Scenic Areacovers the mountainous south west ofLewis,all ofHarris,theSound of Harrisand the northern part ofNorth Uist.
• An area of the south west coast ofSouth Uistis designated as theSouth Uist Machair National Scenic Area.
• The archipelago ofSt Kildais also listed as an NSA, alongside many other conservation designations.

Flora and fauna

Main article:Flora and fauna of the Outer Hebrides

The open landscapes ofBenbecula

Bàgh Mòr,Grimsay

Much of the archipelago is a protected habitat, including both the islands and the surrounding waters. There are 53Sites of Special Scientific Interestof which the largest are Loch an Duin, North Uist (151 square kilometres (37,000 acres)) and North Harris (127 square kilometres (31,000 acres)).South Uistis considered the best place in the UK for the aquatic plantSlender Naiad,which is aEuropean Protected Species.

There has been considerable controversy overhedgehogson the Uists. Hedgehogs are not native to the islands but were introduced in the 1970s to reduce garden pests. Their spread posed a threat to the eggs of ground-nesting wading birds. In 2003 Scottish Natural Heritage undertook culls of hedgehogs in the area, but these were halted in 2007; trapped animals are now relocated to the mainland.

Nationally important populations of breeding waders are present in the Outer Hebrides, includingcommon redshank,dunlin,lapwingandringed plover.The islands also provide a habitat for other important species such ascorncrake,hen harrier,golden eagleandotter.Offshore,basking sharkand various species of whale and dolphin can often be seen,and the remoter islands' seabird populations are of international significance.St Kildahas 60,000northern gannets,amounting to 24% of the world population; 49,000 breeding pairs ofLeach's petrel,up to 90% of the European population; and 136,000 pairs ofpuffinand 67,000northern fulmarpairs, about 30% and 13% of the respective UK totals.Mingulayis an important breeding ground forrazorbills,with 9,514 pairs, 6.3% of the European population.

ThebumblebeeBombus jonellusvar.hebridensisisendemicto the Hebrides and there are local variants of thedark green fritillaryandgreen-veined whitebutterflies.TheSt Kilda wrenis a subspecies ofwrenwhose range is confined to the islands whose name it bears.

Population

Lews Castle,Stornoway

Historical population

Year	Pop.	±%
1861	36,319	—
1901	46,172	+27.1%
1951	35,591	−22.9%
1961	32,609	−8.4%
1971	29,891	−8.3%
1981	30,702	+2.7%
1991	29,600	−3.6%
2001	26,502	−10.5%
2011	27,684	+4.5%

The islands' total population was 26,502 at the 2001 census, and the 2011 figure was 27,684.During the same periodScottish islandpopulations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.The largest settlement in the Outer Hebrides isStornowayon Lewis,which has a population of about 8,100.

The population estimate for 2019 was 26,720 according to a Comhairle nan Eilean Siar report which added that "the population of the Outer Hebrides is ageing" and that "young adults [...] leave the islands for further education or employment purposes". Of the total population, 6,953 people reside in the "Stornoway settlement Laxdale (Lacasdal), Sandwick (Sanndabhaig) and Newmarket" with the balance distributed over 280 townships.

In addition to the major North Ford (Oitir Mhòr) and South Ford causeways that connect North Uist to Benbecula via the northern of theGrimsays,and another causeway from Benbecula to South Uist, several other islands are linked by smaller causeways or bridges.Great BerneraandScalpayhave bridge connections to Lewis and Harris respectively, with causeways linkingBaleshareandBernerayto North Uist;Eriskayto South Uist;Flodaigh,Fraoch-Eileanand the southernGrimsayto Benbecula; and theVatersay CausewaylinkingVatersayto Barra.This means that all the inhabited islands are now connected to at least one other island by a land transport route.

Geographic distribution of Gaelic speakers in Scotland (2011)

Island name		Population		2011 Gaelic speakers
English	Gaelic	2011	2001
Lewis and Harris	Leòdhas	21,031	18,500 (Lewis)	Parish Speakers Steòrnabhagh 43% (5,492) Barabhas 64% (2,037) Ceann a Tuath nan Loch 53% (942) Ùig 56% (873) Total 49% (9,344)
	Na Hearadh		1,916 (Harris)	60% (1,212)
South Uist	Uibhist a Deas	1,754	1,818	60% (1,888 incl. Benbecula)
North Uist	Uibhist a Tuath	1,254	1,271	61% (887)
Benbecula	Beinn nam Fadhla	1,303	1,219	60% (1,888 with South Uist)
Barra	Barraigh	1,174	1,078	62% (761)
Scalpay	Sgalpaigh	291	322
Great Bernera	Beàrnaraigh Mòr	252	233
Grimsay(north)	Griomasaigh	169	201
Berneray	Beàrnaraigh	138	136
Eriskay	Èirisgeigh	143	133
Vatersay	Bhatarsaigh	90	94
Baleshare	Baile Sear	58	49
Grimsay(south)	Griomasaigh	20	19
Flodaigh	Flodaigh	7	11
Fraoch-Eilean	Fraoch-Eilean	?	?
Total		27,684	26,502	52% (14,248)

Uninhabited islands

View of theBarra IslesfromHeaval.The village ofCastlebayis in the foreground, withVatersay,and the uninhabited islands ofSandray,Pabbay,MingulayandBerneraybeyond.

There are more than fifty uninhabited islands greater in size than 40 hectares (99 acres) in the Outer Hebrides, including theBarra Isles,Flannan Isles,Monach Islands,theShiant Islandsand the islands ofLoch Ròg.In common with the other main island chains of Scotland, many of the more remote islands were abandoned during the 19th and 20th centuries, in some cases after continuous habitation since the prehistoric period. More than 35 such islands have been identified in the Outer Hebrides alone.On Barra Head, for example,Historic Scotlandhave identified eighty-three archaeological sites on the island, the majority being of a pre-medieval date. In the 18th century, the population was over fifty, but the last native islanders had left by 1931. The island became completely uninhabited by 1980 with the automation of the lighthouse.

Some of the smaller islands continue to contribute to modern culture. The "Mingulay Boat Song",although evocative of island life, was written after the abandonment of the island in 1938andTaransayhosted theBBCtelevision seriesCastaway 2000.Others have played a part in Scottish history. On 4 May 1746, the "Young Pretender"Charles Edward Stuarthid onEilean Liubhairdwith some of his men for four days whilstRoyal Navyvessels patrolled the Minch.

Smaller isles andskerriesand other island groups pepper theNorth Atlanticsurrounding the main islands. Some are not geologically part of the Outer Hebrides, but are administratively and in most cases culturally, part ofComhairle nan Eilean Siar.73 kilometres (45 mi) to the west of Lewis liesSt Kilda,now uninhabited except for a small military base.A similar distance to the north of Lewis areNorth RonaandSula Sgeir,two small and remote islands. While Rona used to support a small population who grew grain and raised cattle,Sula Sgeiris an inhospitable rock. Thousands ofnorthern gannetsnest here, and by special arrangement some of their young, known asgugas,are harvested annually by the men ofNess.The status ofRockall,which is 367 kilometres (228 mi) to the west of North Uist and which theIsland of Rockall Act 1972decreed to be a part of the Western Isles, remains a matter of international dispute.

Settlements

Stornoway

Newmarket

Sandwick

Balivanich

Tarbert

Lochmaddy

Lochboisdale

Castlebay

Highland council area

class=notpageimage|

The largest settlements in the Outer Hebrides.

A 2018 development plandivides the Outer Hebrides settlements into four types:Stornoway Core,Main Settlements, Rural Settlements and Outwith Settlements. The Main Settlements areTarbert,Lochmaddy,Balivanich,Lochboisdale/Daliburgh,Greater Castlebayand Greater Stornoway (excluding Stornoway core).

Combining with data from theNational Records of Scotland,the principal settlements are:

Settlement	Population (2020)
Stornoway	4,800
Newmarket,LaxdaleandMarybank	1,610
Sandwick	870
Balivanich	510
Tarbert	< 500
Lochmaddy	< 500
Lochboisdale/Daliburgh	< 500
Castlebay	< 500

The dispersed settlements consisting of Rural Settlements and Outwith Settlements account for ca. two thirds of the population of the council area, since the total population of the table is about 9,000.

Geology

Geological map of theHebridean Terrane

The "Old Boy"— thegneisscliffs ofSloc na Bèiste,Barra Head,the southernmost point of the Outer Hebrides

Most of the islands have a bedrock formed fromLewisian gneiss.These are amongst the oldest rocks in Europe, having been formed in thePrecambrianperiod up to three billion years ago. In addition to the Outer Hebrides, they form basement deposits on the Scottish mainland west of theMoine Thrustand on the islands ofCollandTiree.These rocks are largely igneous in origin, mixed with metamorphosedmarble,quartziteandmica schistand intruded by later basalticdykesand granite magma.The gneiss's delicate pink colours are exposed throughout the islands and it is sometimes referred to by geologists as "The Old Boy".

Granite intrusions are found in the parish ofBarvasin west Lewis, and another forms the summit plateau of the mountainRoineabhalin Harris. The granite here isanorthosite,and is similar in composition to rocks found in the mountains of theMoon.There are relatively small outcrops ofTriassicsandstone atBroad Baynear Stornoway. The Shiant Islands and St Kilda are formed from much later tertiarybasaltand basalt andgabbrosrespectively. The sandstone at Broad Bay was once thought to beTorridonianorOld Red Sandstone.

Climate

The Outer Hebrides have a cool temperate climate that is remarkably mild and steady for such a northerlylatitude,due to the influence of theNorth Atlantic Current.The average temperature for the year is 6 °C (44 °F) in January and 14 °C (57 °F) in summer. The average annual rainfall in Lewis is 1,100 millimetres (43 in) and sunshine hours range from 1,100 to 1,200 per year. The summer days are relatively long and May to August is the driest period.Winds are a key feature of the climate and even in summer there are almost constant breezes. According to the writerW. H. Murrayif a visitor asks an islander for a weather forecast "he will not, like a mainlander answer dry, wet or sunny, but quote you a figure from theBeaufort Scale."There are gales one day in six at theButt of Lewisand small fish are blown onto the grass on top of 190 metre (620 ft) high cliffs atBarra Headduring winter storms.

Prehistory

TheCallanish Stones

The Hebrides were originally settled in theMesolithic eraand have a diversity of importantprehistoricsites.Eilean DòmhnuillinLoch OlabhatonNorth Uistwas constructed around 3200–2800 BC and may be Scotland's earliestcrannog(a type of artificial island).TheCallanish Stones,dating from about 2900 BC, are the finest example of astone circlein Scotland, the 13 primarymonolithsof between one and five metres high creating a circle about 13 metres (43 ft) in diameter.Cladh HallanonSouth Uist,the only site in the UK where prehistoricmummieshave been found, and the impressive ruins ofDun Carlowaybrochon Lewis both date from theIron Age.

History

Main article:History of the Outer Hebrides

In Scotland, the CelticIron Ageway of life, often troubled but never extinguished by Rome, re-asserted itself when the legions abandoned any permanent occupation in 211 AD.Hanson (2003) writes: "For many years it has been almost axiomatic in studies of the period that the Roman conquest must have had some major medium or long-term impact on Scotland. On present evidence that cannot be substantiated either in terms of environment, economy, or, indeed, society. The impact appears to have been very limited. The general picture remains one of broad continuity, not of disruption... The Roman presence in Scotland was little more than a series of brief interludes within a longer continuum of indigenous development."The Romans' direct impact on the Highlands and Islands was scant and there is no evidence that they ever actually landed in the Outer Hebrides.

The laterIron Ageinhabitants of the northern and western Hebrides were probablyPictish,although the historical record is sparse. Hunter (2000) states that in relation to KingBridei I of the Pictsin the sixth century AD: "As for Shetland, Orkney, Skye and the Western Isles, their inhabitants, most of whom appear to have been Pictish in culture and speech at this time, are likely to have regarded Bridei as a fairly distant presence."The island of Pabbay is the site of the Pabbay Stone, the only extantPictish symbol stonein the Outer Hebrides. This 6th centurysteleshows a flower, V-rod and lunar crescent to which has been added a later and somewhat crude cross.

Norse control

Location of theKingdom of the Islesat the end of the eleventh century

Vikingraids began on Scottish shores towards the end of the 8th century AD and the Hebrides came under Norse control and settlement during the ensuing decades, especially following the success ofHarald Fairhairat theBattle of Hafrsfjordin 872.In the Western IslesKetill Flatnosewas the dominant figure of the mid 9th century, by which time he had amassed a substantial island realm and made a variety of alliances with otherNorseleaders. These princelings nominally owed allegiance to the Norwegian crown, although in practice the latter's control was fairly limited.Norse control of the Hebrides was formalised in 1098 whenEdgar, King of Scotlandformally signed the islands over toMagnus III of Norway.The Scottish acceptance of Magnus III as King of the Isles came after the Norwegian king had conqueredOrkney,the Hebrides and theIsle of Manin a swift campaign earlier the same year, directed against the local Norwegian leaders of the various islands‘ petty kingdoms. By capturing the islands Magnus imposed a more direct royal control, although at a price. HisskaldBjorn Cripplehand recorded that in Lewis "fire played high in the heaven" as "flame spouted from the houses" and that in the Uists "the king dyed his sword red in blood".Thompson (1968) provides a more literal translation: "Fire played in the fig-trees of Liodhus; it mounted up to heaven. Far and wide the people were driven to flight. The fire gushed out of the houses".

The Hebrides were now part of Kingdom of the Isles, whose rulers were themselves vassals of the Kings of Norway. The Kingdom had two parts: theSuðr-eyjaror South Isles encompassing theHebridesand theIsle of Man;and theNorðr-eyjaror North Isles of Orkney andShetland.This situation lasted until the partitioning of the Western Isles in 1156, at which time the Outer Hebrides remained under Norwegian control while the Inner Hebrides broke out underSomerled,the Norse-Celtic kinsman of the Manx royal house.

Following the ill-fated 1263 expedition ofHaakon IV of Norway,the Outer Hebrides along with the Isle of Man, were yielded to the Kingdom of Scotland a result of the 1266Treaty of Perth.Although their contribution to the islands can still be found in personal and placenames, the archaeological record of the Norse period is very limited. The best known find from this time is theLewis chessmen,which date from the mid 12th century.

Scots rule

Kisimul Castle,the ancient seat ofClan MacNeil,Castlebay,Barra

As the Norse era drew to a close theNorse-speakingprinces were gradually replaced by Gaelic-speakingclanchiefs including theMacLeodsof Lewis and Harris, theMacDonaldsof theUistsandMacNeil of Barra.This transition did little to relieve the islands of internecine strife although by the early 14th century the MacDonaldLords of the Isles,based onIslay,were in theory these chiefs' feudal superiors and managed to exert some control.

The growing threat that Clan Donald posed to the Scottish crown led to the forcible dissolution of the Lordship of the Isles byJames IVin 1493, but although the king had the power to subdue the organised military might of the Hebrides, he and his immediate successors lacked the will or ability to provide an alternative form of governance.TheHouse of Stuart's attempts to control the Outer Hebrides were then at first desultory and little more than punitive expeditions. In 1506 theEarl of Huntlybesieged and captured Stornoway Castle using cannon. In 1540James Vhimself conducted a royal tour, forcing the clan chiefs to accompany him. There followed a period of peace, but all too soon the clans were at loggerheads again.

In 1598 KingJames VIauthorised some "Gentleman Adventurers "from Fifeto civilise the "most barbarous Isle of Lewis". Initially successful, the colonists were driven out by local forces commanded by Murdoch and Neil MacLeod, who based their forces onBearasaighinLoch Ròg.The colonists tried again in 1605 with the same result but a third attempt in 1607 was more successful, and in due course Stornoway became aBurgh of Barony.By this time Lewis was held by the Mackenzies of Kintail, (later theEarls of Seaforth), who pursued a more enlightened approach, investing in fishing in particular. The historian W. C. MacKenzie was moved to write:

At the end of the 17th century, the picture we have of Lewis that of a people pursuing their avocation in peace, but not in plenty. The Seaforths..., besides establishing orderly Government in the island.. had done a great deal to rescue the people from the slough of ignorance and incivility in which they found themselves immersed. But in the sphere of economics their policy apparently was of little service to the community.

The Seaforth's royalist inclinations led to Lewis becoming garrisoned during theWars of the Three KingdomsbyCromwell'stroops, who destroyed the old castle in Stornoway and in 1645 Lewismen fought on the royalist side at theBattle of Auldearn.A new era of Hebridean involvement in the affairs of the wider world was about to commence.

British era

Abandoned school house,Mingulay

With the implementation of theTreaty of Unionin 1707 the Hebrides became part of the newKingdom of Great Britain,but the clans' loyalties to a distant monarch were not strong. A considerable number of islandmen "came out" in support of the JacobiteEarl of Marin the"15"although the response to the1745 risingwas muted.Nonetheless the aftermath of the decisiveBattle of Culloden,which effectively ended Jacobite hopes of a Stuart restoration, was widely felt. The British government's strategy was to estrange the clan chiefs from their kinsmen and turn their descendants into English-speaking landlords whose main concern was the revenues their estates brought rather than the welfare of those who lived on them. This may have brought peace to the islands, but in the following century it came at a terrible price.

TheHighland Clearancesof the 19th century destroyed communities throughout theHighlands and Islandsas the human populations were evicted and replaced with sheep farms.For example, ColonelGordonofCluny,owner of Barra, South Uist and Benbecula, evicted thousands of islanders using trickery and cruelty, and even offered to sell Barra to the government as a penal colony.Islands such asFuaigh Mòrwere completely cleared of their populations and even today the subject is recalled with bitterness and resentment in some areas.The position was exacerbated by the failure of the islands'kelpindustry, which thrived from the 18th century until the end of theNapoleonic Warsin 1815and large scale emigration became endemic. For example, hundreds left North Uist forCape Breton,Nova Scotia.The pre-clearance population of the island had been almost 5,000, although by 1841 it had fallen to 3,870 and was only 2,349 by 1931.

TheHighland potato famine(Gaiseadh a’ bhuntàta, in Scottish Gaelic), caused by a blight, started in 1846 and had a serious impact, because many islanders were crofters; potatoes were a staple of their diet.Violent riots became common.Charities, encouraged by George Poleand others in the Commissariat (a military agency) encouraged charities to come to the rescue. The Free Church was particularly helpful, "delivering oatmeal to famine-affected families all across the West Highlands and Islands", according to one report. Another report states that the Church "was prompt in organising an efficient system of private charity across the Hebrides and on the Western seaboard. It cooperated with the Edinburgh and Glasgow Relief Committees".

An interdenominational charity was in place by early 1847 and took the most significant role in famine relief.Some landowners also provided a great deal of assistance, according to one history of the region: "MacLeod of Dunvegan bought in food for his people, some eight thousand of them"... MacLean of Ardgour provided food, and introduced new crops into the area - peas, cabbages and carrots... Sir James Matheson on Lewis spent £329,000 (Equivalent to £37,000,000 in 2024) on improving his lands, hoping to provide a more secure future for his people ". The government of Britain provided some assistance, thanks to SirCharles Trevelyan,who arranged for food distribution at Portree and Tobermory. TheBritish Association for the Relief of Distress in Ireland and the Highlands and Islands of Scotlandalso helped as did donations received from North America. The blight struck again over the next two years, requiring an extra tax on landowners to help feed the population. The British government began encouraging mass emigration.

For those who remained new economic opportunities emerged through the export of cattle, commercial fishing and tourism. During the summer season in the 1860s and 1870s five thousand inhabitants of Lewis could be found inWickon the mainland of Scotland, employed on the fishing boats and at the quaysides.Nonetheless emigration and military service became the choice of manyand the archipelago's populations continued to dwindle throughout the late 19th and 20th centuries. By 2001 the population of North Uist was only 1,271.

The work of theNapier Commissionand theCongested Districts Board,and the passing of theCrofting Act of 1886helped, but social unrest continued.In July 1906 grazing land onVatersaywas raided by landless men from Barra and its isles.Lady Gordon Cathcarttook legal action against the "raiders" but the visiting judge took the view that she had neglected her duties as a landowner and that "long indifference to the necessities of the cottars had gone far to drive them to exasperation".Millennia of continuous occupation notwithstanding, many of the remoter islands were abandoned —Mingulayin 1912,Hirtain 1930, andCeann Iarin 1942 among them. This process involved a transition from these places being perceived as relatively self-sufficient agricultural economiesto a view becoming held by both island residents and outsiders alike that they lacked the essential services of a modern industrial economy.

Proposed civil flag of the Outer Hebrides

There were gradual economic improvements, among the most visible of which was the replacement of the traditional thatchedblackhousewith accommodation of a more modern design.The creation of theHighlands and Islands Development Boardand the discovery of substantial deposits ofNorth Sea oilin 1965, the establishment of a unitary local authority for the islands in 1975 and more recently therenewables sectorhave all contributed to a degree of economic stability in recent decades. TheArnish yardhas had a chequered history but has been a significant employer in both the oil and renewables industries.Comhairle nan Eilean Siar,the local authority, employs 2,000 people, making it the largest employer in the Outer Hebrides.See also the "Innse Gallarea plan 2010 "and theComhairle's "Factfile – Economy".

Economy

StornowayHarbour

Modern commercial activities centre on tourism,crofting,fishing, and weaving including the manufacture ofHarris tweed.Crofting remains popular especially onLewis and Harris(population 21,000) with over 920 active crofters according to a 2020 report: "with crofts ranging in size from as small as a single hectare to having access to thousands of hectares through the medium of community grazing". Crofters can apply for subsidy grants; some of these are intended to help them find other avenues to supplement their incomes.Some of the funding schemes available to crofters in the Hebrides include the "Basic Payment Scheme, the suckler beef support scheme, the upland sheep support scheme and the Less Favoured Area support scheme and the Crofting Agricultural Grant Scheme (CAGS), as of March 2020.

According to the Scottish Government, "tourism is by far and away the mainstay industry" of the Outer Hebrides, "generating £65m in economic value for the islands, sustaining around 1000 jobs" The report adds that the "islands receive 219,000 visitors per year".

Some of the larger islands havedevelopment truststhat support the local economy and, in striking contrast to the 19th and 20th century domination by absentee landlords, more than two thirds of the Western Isles population now lives on community-owned estates.However the economic position of the islands remains relatively precarious. The Western Isles, including Stornoway, are defined byHighlands and Islands Enterpriseas an economically "Fragile Area" and they have an estimated trade deficit of some £163.4 million. Overall, the area is relatively reliant on primary industries and the public sector, and fishing and fish farming in particular are vulnerable to environmental impacts, changing market pressures, and European legislation.

There is some optimism about the possibility of future developments in, for example, renewable energy generation, tourism, and education, and after declines in the 20th century the population has stabilised since 2003, although it is ageing.A 2019 report, using key assumptions, (mortality, fertility and migration) was less optimistic. It predicted that the population is "projected to fall to 22,709 by 2043"; that translates to a 16% decline, or 4,021 people, between 2018 and 2043.

The UK’s largest community-owned wind farm, the 9MW Beinn Ghrideag, a "3 turbine, 9MW scheme" is located outside Stornoway and is operated by Point and Sandwick Trust (PST).

The Isle of Lewis web site states that Stornoway's sheltered harbour has been important for centuries; it was named Steering Bay byVikingswho often visited.A December 2020 report stated that a new deep water terminal was to be developed, the Stornoway Deep Water Terminal, using a £49 million investment. The plan included berths for cruise ships as long as 360 meters, berths for large cargo vessels, and a freight ferry berth.

Politics and local government

Main article:Comhairle nan Eilean Siar

Sir Edward Scott Secondary School,Tarbert, Isle of Harris

The local authority isComhairle nan Eilean Siar,based at the Council Offices in Stornoway. The council is often known locally simply as "theComhairle"ora' Chomhairle.

Administrative history

After the Scottish crown claimed control of the islands, they were included inInverness-shire.In 1661 Inverness-shire was split, with the northern parts becoming a new county calledRoss-shire.The interests of landowners influenced the boundary of the new county.Kenneth Mackenzie, 3rd Earl of Seaforth,owned extensive lands inRosson the mainland and also owned theIsle of Lewis.Lewis was therefore included in Ross-shire, whereas the rest of the Outer Hebrides stayed in Inverness-shire (includingHarris,despite it being part of the same island as Lewis).In 1889, Ross-shire merged withCromartyshireto form a new county calledRoss and Cromarty.

Local government was reformed in 1975 under theLocal Government (Scotland) Act 1973,which replaced Scotland's counties,burghsandlandward districts.In most of Scotland a two-tier structure of upper-tier regions and lower-tier districts was used, but a single-tier structure of island areas was used forOrkney,Shetlandand the Outer Hebrides, the latter being named the Western Isles.Further local government reform in 1996 introduced single-tier council areas across all of Scotland. The councils of the three island areas created in 1975, including the Western Isles, continued to provide the same services after 1996, but their areas were redesignated as council areas.

As part of the 1975 reforms the area was also made alieutenancy area,represented by theLord Lieutenant of the Western Isles.

In 1998, following theLocal Government (Gaelic Names) (Scotland) Act 1997,the Western Isles Council formally changed the English language version of the council area's name from Western Isles toNa h-Eileanan an Iar(Gaelic for 'the Western Isles'), and the name of the council toComhairle nan Eilean Siar('Council of the Western Isles'), to be used in both English and Gaelic contexts.

Wider politics

The name for the British Parliament constituency covering this area isNa h-Eileanan an Iar,the seat being held byTorcuil CrichtonMP since 2024, while the Scottish Parliament constituency for the area isNa h-Eileanan an Iar,the incumbent beingAlasdair AllanMSP.

During the2014 Scottish independence referendumthe area voted against independence by a margin of 53.42% (10,544) to 46.58% (9,195) in favour on a turnout of 86.2%

In 2022, as part of theLevelling Up White Paper,an "Island Forum" was proposed, which would allow local policymakers and residents in the Outer Hebrides to work alongside their counterparts inShetland,Orkney,Angleseyand theIsle of Wighton common issues, such as broadband connectivity, and provide a platform for them to communicate directly with the government on the challenges island communities face in terms of levelling up.

Scottish Gaelic language

Pronunciation
Scottish Gaelic:	A' Chomhairle
Pronunciation:	[əˈxõ.ərˠʎə]
Scottish Gaelic:	An t-Eilean Fada
Pronunciation:	[əɲtʰʲelanfat̪ə]
Scottish Gaelic:	Comhairle nan Eilean Siar
Pronunciation:	[ˈkʰõ.ərˠʎənəˈɲelanˈʃiəɾ]
Scottish Gaelic:	guga
Pronunciation:	[ˈkukə]
Scottish Gaelic:	Innse Gall
Pronunciation:	[ˈĩːʃəˈkaulˠ̪]
Scottish Gaelic:	Na h-Eileanan A-muigh
Pronunciation:	[nəˈhelanənəˈmuj]
Scottish Gaelic:	Na h-Eileanan an Iar
Pronunciation:	[nəˈhelanənəˈɲiəɾ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Na h-Eileanan Siar
Pronunciation:	[nəˈhelanənˈʃiəɾ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Oitir Mhòr
Pronunciation:	[ˈɔʰtʲɪɾʲˈvoːɾ]
Scottish Gaelic:	Sloc na Béiste
Pronunciation:	[ˈs̪lˠ̪ɔʰknəˈpeːʃtʲə]

The Outer Hebrides have historically been a very strongScottish Gaelic(Gàidhlig) speaking area. Both the 1901 and 1921 census reported that all parishes were over 75% Gaelic speaking, including areas of high population density such as Stornoway. However, theEducation (Scotland) Act 1872mandated English-only education, and is now recognised as having dealt a major blow to the language. People still living can recall being beaten for speaking Gaelic in school.By 1971 most areas were still more than 75% Gaelic speaking – with the exception ofStornoway,BenbeculaandSouth Uistat 50–74%.

In the 2001 census, each island overall was over 50% Gaelic speaking –South Uist(71%),Harris(69%),Barra(68%),North Uist(67%),Lewis(56%) andBenbecula(56%). With 59.3% of Gaelic speakers or a total of 15,723 speakers, this made the Outer Hebrides the most strongly coherent Gaelic speaking area in Scotland.

Most areas were between 60-74% Gaelic speaking and the areas with the highest density of over 80% areScalpay near Harris,Newtonferryand Kildonan, whilstDaliburgh,Linshader,Eriskay,Brue,Boisdale,West Harris,Ardveenish,Soval,Ness,andBragarall have more than 75%. The areas with the lowest density of speakers are Stornoway (44%), Braigh (41%),Melbost(41%), andBalivanich(37%).

TheGaelic Language (Scotland) Actwas enacted by theScottish Parliamentin 2005 to provide continuing support for the language.However, by 2011 the overall percentage of Gaelic speakers in the Outer Hebrides had fallen to 52%.

In modern Gaelic the islands are sometimes referred to collectively asAn t-Eilean Fada(the Long Island)orNa h-Eileanan a-Muigh(the Outer Isles).Innse Gall(islands of the foreigners or strangers) is also heard occasionally, a name that was originally used by mainlandHighlanderswhen the islands were ruled by the Norse.

The individual island and place names in the Outer Hebrides have mixed Gaelic and Norse origins. Various Gaelic terms are used repeatedly:

Gaelic root	Derived forms	Anglicised as	Origin and meaning
-aigh		-ay/-ey	generally from the Norseøymeaning "island"
beag	bheag,bige,bhige,beaga,bheaga	beg	small
dearg	dhearg,deirge,dheirge,deirg,dheirg,dearga,dhearga	derg	red
dubh	dhubh,duibh,dhuibh,duibhe,dhuibhe,dubha,dhubha		black; hidden
glas	ghlas,glais,ghlais,glaise,ghlaise,glasa,ghlasa		grey, green
ear			east, eastern
eilean	eilein,eileanan		island
iar			west, western
mòr	mhòr,mòire,mhòire,mòra,mhòra,mòir,mhòir	more	big, great
rubha	rubhannan		promontory
sgeir	sgeirean	skerry	skerry; often refers to a rock or rocks that lie submerged at high tide. From Old Norsesker.

There are alsoseveral islands calledOrasaighfrom the NorseÖrfirirseymeaning "tidal" or "ebb island".

Transport

Caledonian MacBrayneferryMVHebridesleavingLochmaddy,North Uist,en route forSkye

Scheduledferryservices between the Outer Hebrides and the Scottish mainland and Inner Hebrides operate on the following routes:

• ObantoCastlebayonBarra
• ObantoLochboisdaleonSouth Uist(winter only)
• MallaigtoLochboisdaleonSouth Uist
• UigonSkyetoTarbertonHarris
• UigonSkyetoLochmaddyonNorth Uist
• UllapooltoStornowayonLewis
• TireetoCastlebay,Barra(summer only)

Other ferries operate between some of the islands.

National Rail services are available for onward journeys, from stations atObanandMallaig,which has direct services to Glasgow. However, parliamentary approval notwithstanding, plans in the 1890s to laya railway connection to Ullapoolwere unable to obtain sufficient funding.

There are scheduled flights fromStornoway,BenbeculaandBarraairports both inter-island and to the mainland. Barra's airport is claimed to be the only one in the world to have scheduled flights landing on a beach. At high water the runways are under the sea so flight times vary with the tide.

Bus Na Comhairle Optare Solo YJ14 BDY seen in Sandwick, May 2020

Bus na Comhairle

Bus na Comhairle(meaning "Bus of the Council" ) is the council-owned local bus company of the Western Isles. The company serves the Broadbay area of Lewis with 7 buses: 6 Optare Solos and 1 ADL Enviro 200.

Shipwrecks

TheAdmiraltyyachtHMSIolaire

The archipelago is exposed to wind and tide, andlighthousesare sited as an aid to navigation at locations from Barra Head in the south to the Butt of Lewis in the north.There are numerous sites of wrecked ships, and theFlannan Islesare the location of an enduring mystery that occurred in December 1900, when all three lighthouse keepers vanished without trace.

Annie Jane,a three-masted immigrant ship out ofLiverpoolbound forMontreal, Canada,struck rocks off the West Beach of Vatersay during a storm on Tuesday 28 September 1853. Within ten minutes the ship began to founder and break up, casting 450 people into the sea. In spite of the conditions, islanders tried to rescue the passengers and crew. The remains of 350 men, women and children were buried in the dunes behind the beach and a small cairn and monument marks the site.

The tiny Beasts of Holm off the east coast of Lewis were the site of the sinking ofHMSIolaireduring the first few hours of 1919,one of the worst maritime disasters in United Kingdom waters during the 20th century.Calvayin the Sound of Barra provided the inspiration forCompton Mackenzie's novelWhisky Galoreafter theSSPoliticianran aground there with a cargo ofsingle malt whiskyin 1941.

Culture

Main article:Religion in the Outer Hebrides

Christianityhas deep roots in the Western Isles, but owing mainly to the different allegiances of the clans in the past, the people in the northern islands (Lewis, Harris, North Uist) have historically been predominantlyPresbyterian,and those of the southern islands (Benbecula, South Uist, Barra) predominantlyRoman Catholic.

At the time of the 2001 Census, 42% of the population identified themselves as being affiliated with theChurch of Scotland,with 13% Roman Catholic and 28% with other Christian churches. Many of this last group belong to theFree Church of Scotland,known for its strict observance of theSabbath.11% stated that they had no religion.This made the Western Isles the Scottish council area with the smallest percentage of non-religious in the population. There are also smallEpiscopaliancongregations in Lewis and Harris, and the Outer Hebrides are part of theDiocese of Argyll and The Islesin both the Episcopalian and Catholic traditions.

Gaelic musicis popular in the islands and the Lewis and Harris Traditional Music Society plays an active role in promoting the genre.Fèis Bharraighbegan in 1981 with the aim of developing the practice and study of the Gaelic language, literature, music, drama and culture on the islands of Barra and Vatersay. This two-week festival has inspired 43 otherfeiseanthroughout Scotland.The LewisPipe Bandwas founded in 1904 and the Lewis and Harris Piping Society in 1977.

Outdoor activities includingrugby,football,golf,shinty,fishing, riding, canoeing, athletics, and multi-sports are popular in the Western Isles. The Hebridean Challenge is an adventure race, run in five daily stages, which takes place along the length of the islands and includes hill and road running, road andmountain biking,short sea swims and demanding sea kayaking sections. There are four main sports centres:Ionad Spors Leodhaisin Stornoway, which has a 25 m swimming pool; Harris Sports Centre;LionacleitSports Centre on Benbecula; andCastlebaySports Centre on Barra. The Western Isles is a member of theInternational Island Games Association.

South Uistis home to theAskernish Golf Course.The oldest links in the Outer Hebrides, it was designed byOld Tom Morris.Although it was in use until the 1930s, its existence was largely forgotten until 2005 and it is now being restored to Morris's original design.

See also

• Constitutional status of Orkney, Shetland and the Western Isles
• Hebridean Myths and Legends
• Leod
• List of Category A listed buildings in the Western Isles
• List of places in the Western Isles
• List of rulers of the Kingdom of the Isles
• List of islands of Scotland
• Ljótólfr
• Solar eclipse of 1 May 1185
• 2012 Comhairle nan Eilean Siar election
• Virtual Hebrides

Sources

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• Ballin Smith, B. and Banks, I. (eds) (2002)In the Shadow of the Brochs, the Iron Age in Scotland.Stroud. Tempus.ISBN0-7524-2517-X
• Ballin Smith, Beverley; Taylor, Simon; Williams, Gareth (eds) (2007)West Over Sea: Studies in Scandinavian Sea-Borne Expansion and Settlement Before 1300.Leiden. Koninklijke Brill.ISBN978-90-04-15893-1
• Benvie, Neil (2004)Scotland's Wildlife.London. Aurum Press.ISBN1-85410-978-2
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• Gregory, Donald (1881)The History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland 1493–1625.Edinburgh. Birlinn. 2008 reprint – originally published by Thomas D. Morrison.ISBN1-904607-57-8
• Hanson, William S. "The Roman Presence: Brief Interludes", in Edwards, Kevin J. & Ralston, Ian B.M. (Eds) (2003)Scotland After the Ice Age: Environment, Archaeology and History, 8000 BC – AD 1000.Edinburgh. Edinburgh University Press.
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• McKirdy, Alan Gordon, John & Crofts, Roger (2007)Land of Mountain and Flood: The Geology and Landforms of Scotland.Edinburgh. Birlinn.ISBN978-1-84158-357-0
• Maclean, Charles (1977)Island on the Edge of the World: the Story of St. Kilda.Edinburgh. Canongate.ISBN0-903937-41-7
• Malhotra, R. (1992)Anthropology of Development: Commemoration Volume in Honour of Professor I.P. Singh.New Delhi. Mittal.ISBN81-7099-328-8
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External links

• Map sourcesfor Outer Hebrides

• Western IslesatCurlie
• Stornoway Port AuthorityArchived1 June 2023 at theWayback Machine
• Comhairle nan Eilean Siar
• 2001 Census Results for the Outer Hebrides
• MacTV
• Reefnet
• Hebrides.comPhotographic website from ex-Eolas Sam Maynard
• www.visithebrides.comWestern Isles Tourist Board site from Reefnet
• Virtual Hebrides.comContent from the VH, which went its own way and became Virtual Scotland.
• hebrides.caHome of the Quebec-Hebridean Scots who were cleared from Lewis to Quebec 1838–1920s