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Ioannina

Coordinates:39°39′49″N20°51′08″E/ 39.66361°N 20.85222°E/39.66361; 20.85222
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(Redirected fromJanina)
For the regional unit, seeIoannina (regional unit).
"Janina" redirects here. For other uses, seeJanina (disambiguation).
"Yanya" redirects here. For other uses, seeYanya (disambiguation).

Ioannina
Ιωάννινα
Municipality
Ioannina montage. Clicking on an image in the picture causes the browser to load the appropriate article, if it exists.Panoramic view of Lake Pamvotis and IoanninaOld Town of IoanninaMunicipal Clock Tower of IoanninaMunicipal Ethnographic Museum of IoanninaKaplaneios SchoolFerry to the IslandPost OfficeCastle of Ioannina
Clockwise from top:Panoramic view of Lake Pamvotisand the city of Ioannina fromMitsikeli,Old Town,Municipal Clock Tower of Ioannina,Municipal Ethnographic Museum of Ioannina,Kaplaneios School,Ferry to the Island,Post Office,and theCastle of Ioannina.
Ioannina is located in Greece
Ioannina
Ioannina
Location within the region
Coordinates:39°39′49″N20°51′08″E/ 39.66361°N 20.85222°E/39.66361; 20.85222
CountryGreece
Administrative regionEpirus
Regional unitIoannina
Government
• MayorThomas Begkas[1](since 2023)
Area
• Municipality403.32 km2(155.72 sq mi)
• Municipal unit47.44 km2(18.32 sq mi)
• Community17.355 km2(6.701 sq mi)
Elevation
480 m (1,570 ft)
Population
(2021)[2]
• Municipality113,978
• Density280/km2(730/sq mi)
• Municipal unit
81,627
• Municipal unit density1,700/km2(4,500/sq mi)
• Community
64,896
• Community density3,700/km2(9,700/sq mi)
Demonym(s)Yanniote (Gianniote)/
Ioannite (formal)
Time zoneUTC+2(EET)
• Summer (DST)UTC+3(EEST)
Postal code
45x xx
Area code(s)26510
Vehicle registrationΙΝ
Websiteioannina.gr

Ioannina(Greek:ΙωάννιναIoánnina[i.oˈa.ni.na]ⓘ), often calledYannena(ΓιάννεναYánnena[ˈʝa.ne.na]) within Greece, is the capital and largest city of theIoannina regional unitand ofEpirus,anadministrative regionin northwesternGreece.According to the 2021 census, the city population was 64,896 while the municipality had 113,978 inhabitants. It lies at an elevation of approximately 500 metres (1,640 feet)above sea level,on the western shore ofLake Pamvotis(Παμβώτις). Ioannina is located 410 km (255 mi) northwest ofAthens,260 kilometres (162 miles) southwest ofThessalonikiand 80 km (50 miles) east of the port ofIgoumenitsaon theIonian Sea.

The city's foundation has traditionally been ascribed to theByzantine EmperorJustinianin the 6th century AD, but modern archaeological research has uncovered evidence ofHellenisticsettlements. Ioannina flourished in the late Byzantine period (13th–15th centuries). It became part of theDespotate of Epirusfollowing theFourth Crusadeand many wealthy Byzantine families fled there following the 1204sack of Constantinople,with the city experiencing great prosperity and considerable autonomy, despite the political turmoil. Ioannina surrendered to theOttomansin 1430 and until 1868 it was the administrative center of thePashalik of Yanina.In the period between the 18th and 19th centuries, the city was a major center of themodern Greek Enlightenment.[3][4][5][6]Ioannina was ceded to Greece in 1913 following theBalkan Wars.

The city is also characterized by various green areas and parks, including Molos (Lake Front), Litharitsia Park, Pirsinella Park (Giannotiko Saloni), Suburban Forest. There are two hospitals, the General Hospital of Ioannina "G. Hatzikosta", and the University Hospital of Ioannina. It is also the seat of theUniversity of Ioannina.The city's emblem consists of the portrait of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian crowned by a stylized depiction of the nearby ancient theater ofDodona.

Name

[edit]

The city's formal name,Ioannina,is probably a corruption ofAgioanninaorAgioanneia,'place of St. John', and is said to be linked to the establishment of a monastery dedicated toSaint John the Baptist,around which the later settlement (in the area of the currentIoannina Castle) grew.[7][8]

According to another theory, the city was named after Ioannina, the daughter ofBelisarius,general of the emperorJustinian.[9][10]

There are two forms of the name in Greek,Ioanninabeing the formal and historical name, while the colloquial and much more commonly usedΥannenaorΥannina(Greek:Γιάννενα, Γιάννινα) represents the vernacular tradition ofDemotic Greek.The demotic form also corresponds to those in the neighboring languages (e.g.,Albanian:JaninaorJaninë,Aromanian:Ianina, Enina or Enãna,Macedonian:Јанина,Turkish:Yanya).

History

[edit]

Antiquity and early Middle Ages

[edit]
See also:Byzantine GreeceandDespotate of Epirus
The main entrance to the city's medieval fortress.

The first indications of human presence in Ioannina basin are dated back to thePaleolithic period(24,000 years ago) as testified by findings in the cavern of Kastritsa.[11]During classical antiquity the basin was inhabited by theMolossiansand four of their settlements have been identified there. Despite the extensive destruction suffered in Molossia during the Roman conquest of 167 BC, settlement continued in the basin albeit no longer in an urban pattern.[12]

The exact time of Ioannina's foundation is unknown, but it is commonly identified with an unnamed new, "well-fortified" city, recorded by the historianProcopiusas having been built by theByzantineemperorJustinian Ifor the inhabitants of ancientEuroia.[13][14]This view is not supported, however, by any concrete archaeological evidence.[15]Early 21st-century excavations have brought to light fortifications dating to theHellenistic period,the course of which was largely followed by later reconstruction of the fortress in the Byzantine andOttomanperiods. The identification of the site with one of the ancient cities ofEpirushas not yet been possible.[15][16]

It is not until 879 that the name Ioannina appears for the first time, in the acts of theFourth Council of Constantinople,which refer to one Zacharias, Bishop of Ioannine, asuffraganofNaupaktos.[14]After theByzantine conquest of Bulgaria,in 1020 EmperorBasil IIsubordinated the local bishopric to theArchbishopric of Ohrid.[14]The Greek archaeologist K. Tsoures dated the Byzantine city walls and the northeastern citadel of theIoannina Castleto the 10th century, with additions in the late 11th century, including the south-eastern citadel, traditionally ascribed to the short-lived occupation of the city by theNormansunder the leadership ofBohemond of Tarantoin 1082.[15][17]In achrysobullto theVenetiansin 1198, the city is listed as part of its own province (provincia JoanninorumorJoaninon).[18]In thetreaty of partitionof the Byzantine lands after theFourth Crusade,Ioannina was promised to the Venetians, but in the event, it became part of the newstate of Epirus,founded byMichael I Komnenos Doukas.[18]

Late Middle Ages (1204–1430)

[edit]
The "Rule of Sinan Pasha" (9 October 1430), written in Greek, granted to the citizens a series of privileges under Ottoman control

Under Michael I, the city was enlarged and fortified anew.[18]TheMetropolitan of Naupaktos,John Apokaukos,reports how the city was but a "small town", until Michael gathered refugees who had fledConstantinopleand other parts of the Empire that fell to the crusaders of theFourth Crusade,and settled them there, transforming the city into a fortress and "ark of salvation". Despite frictions with local inhabitants who tried in 1232 to expel the refugees, the latter were eventually successfully settled and Ioannina gained in both population and economic and political importance.[19][20]In the aftermath of theBattle of Pelagoniain 1259, much of Epirus was occupied by theEmpire of Nicaea,and Ioannina was placed under siege. Soon, however, the Epirote rulerMichael II Komnenos Doukas,aided by his younger sonJohn I Doukas,managed to recover their capital ofArtaand relieve Ioannina, evicting the Nicaeans from Epirus.[18][21]Inc. 1275orc. 1285,John I Doukas, now ruler ofThessaly,launched a raid against the city and its environs, and a few years later an army from therestored Byzantine Empireunsuccessfully laid siege to the city.[18][22][23]Following the assassination in 1318 of the last native ruler,Thomas I Komnenos Doukas,by his nephewNicholas Orsini,the city refused to accept the latter and turned to the Byzantines for assistance. On this occasion, EmperorAndronikos II Palaiologoselevated the city to ametropolitan bishopric,and in 1319 issued a chrysobull conceding wide-ranging autonomy and various privileges and exemptions on its inhabitants.[18][24]A Jewish community is also attested in the city in 1319.[25]In the Epirote revolt of 1337–1338 against Byzantine rule, the city remained loyal to EmperorAndronikos III Palaiologos.[18]Soon afterwards Ioannina fell to theSerbrulerStephen Dushanand remained part of theSerbian Empireuntil 1356, when Dushan's half-brotherSimeon Urošwas evicted byNikephoros II Orsini.The attempt of Nikephoros to restore the Epirote state was short-lived as he was killed in theBattle of AchelousagainstAlbaniantribes.,[26][27]but Ioannina was not captured. It thus served as a place of refuge for many Greeks of the region ofVagenetia.[28][29]In 1366–67 Simeon Uroš, having recovered Epirus and Thessaly, appointed his son-in-lawThomas II Preljubovićas the new overlord of Ioannina. Thomas proved a deeply unpopular ruler, but he nonetheless repelled successive attempts by Albanian chieftains including a surprise attack in 1379, whose failure the Ioannites attributed to intervention by their patron saint, Michael.[30][31]

After Thomas' murder in 1384, the citizens of Ioannina offered their city toEsau de' Buondelmonti,who married Thomas' widow,Maria.Esau recalled those exiled under Thomas and restored the properties confiscated by him. In 1389, Ioannina was besieged byGjin Bua Shpata,and only with the aid of an Ottoman army was Esau able to repel the Albanians. Despite the ongoing Ottoman expansion and the conflicts between Turks and Albanians in the vicinity of Ioannina, Esau managed to secure a period of peace for the city, especially following his second marriage to Shpata's daughter Irene inc. 1396.Following Esau's death in 1411, the Ioannites invited theCount palatine of Cephalonia and Zakynthos,Carlo I Tocco,who had already been expanding his domains into Epirus for the last decade, as their new ruler. By 1416 Carlo I Tocco had managed to capture Arta as well, thereby reuniting the core of the old Epirote realm, and received recognition from both the Ottomans and the Byzantine emperor. Ioannina became the summer capital of the Tocco domains, and Carlo I died there in July 1429.[32]Carlo I's army, as well as the army of the city of Ioannina itself both before and during Carlo I's rule, was composed primarily ofAlbanians.[33]His oldest bastard son, Ercole, called on the Ottomans for aid against the legitimate heir,Carlo II Tocco.In 1430 an Ottoman army, fresh from thecaptureof Thessalonica, appeared before Ioannina. The city surrendered after the Ottoman commander, Sinan Pasha, promised to spare the city and respect its autonomy.[34]

Ottoman period (1430–1913)

[edit]
Interior view of the dome of theAslan Pasha Mosquebuilt on the site of the Church of Saint John, which was torn down after the failed anti-Ottoman revolt of 1611

Under Ottoman rule, Ioannina remained an administrative centre, as the seat of theSanjak of Ioannina,and experienced a period of relative stability and prosperity.[8]The first Ottoman tax registers for the city dates to 1564, and records 50 Muslim households and 1,250 Christian ones; another register from 15 years later mentions Jews as well.[8]

In 1611 the city suffered a serious setback as a result of a peasant revolt led byDionysius the Philosopher,theMetropolitan of Larissa.The Greek inhabitants of the city were unaware of the intent of the fighting as previous successes of Dionysius had depended on the element of surprise. Much confusion ensued as Turks and Christians ended up indiscriminately fighting friend and foe alike. The revolt ended in the abolition of all privileges granted to the Christian inhabitants, who were driven away from the castle area and had to settle around it. From then onwards, Turks andJewswere to be established in the castle area. TheSchool of the Despotsat the Church of the Taxiarchs, that had been operating since 1204, was closed. Aslan Pasha also destroyed the monastery of St. John the Baptist within the city walls in 1618 erected in its place theAslan Pasha Mosque,today housing theMunicipal Ethnographic Museum of Ioannina.[35]The Ottoman reprisals in the wake of the revolt included the confiscation of manytimarspreviously granted to Christiansipahis;this began a wave of conversions to Islam by the local gentry, who became the so-calledTourkoyanniotes(Τoυρκογιαννιώτες).[8]The Ottoman travellerEvliya Çelebi,who visited the city inc. 1670,counted 37 quarters, of which 18 Muslim, 14 Christian, 4 Jewish and 1 Gypsy. He estimated the population at 4,000 hearths.[8]

Center of Greek Enlightenment (17th–18th centuries)

[edit]
The oldZosimaia School,now municipal school

Despite the repression and conversions in the 17th century, and the prominence of the Muslim population in the city's affairs, Ioannina retained its Christian majority throughout Ottoman rule, and theGreek languageretained a dominant position;Turkishwas spoken by the Ottoman officials and the garrison, and the Albanian inhabitants used Albanian, but thelingua francaand native language of most inhabitants was Greek, including among theTourkoyanniotes,and was sometimes used by the Ottoman authorities themselves.[8]

The city also soon recovered from the financial effects of the revolt. In the late 17th century Ioannina was a thriving city with respect to population and commercial activity. Evliya Çelebi mentions the presence of 1,900 shops and workshops. The great economic prosperity of the city was followed by remarkable cultural activity. During the 17th and 18th centuries, many important schools were established.[36]Its inhabitants continued their commercial and handicraft activities which allowed them to trade with important European commercial centers, such asVeniceandLivorno,where merchants from Ioannina established commercial and banking houses. The Ioannite diaspora was also culturally active: Nikolaos Glykys (in 1670), Nikolaos Sarros (in 1687) and Dimitrios Theodosiou (in 1755) established private printing presses in Venice, responsible for over 1,600 editions of books for circulation in the Ottoman-ruled Greek lands, and Ioannina was the centre through which these books were channeled into Greece.[37]These were significant historical, theological as well as scientific works, including an algebra book funded by theZosimadesbrothers, books for use in the schools of Ioannina such as theArithmeticaofBalanos Vasilopoulos,as well as medical books. At the same time these merchants and entrepreneurs maintained close economic and intellectual relations with their birthplace and founded charity and education establishments. These merchants were to be major national benefactors.

Zois Kaplanis, Greek philanthropist from Ioannina, founder of theKaplaneios School
Kaplaneios School

Thus theEpiphaniouSchool was founded in 1647 by a Greek merchant of Ioannite origin resident in Venice, Epiphaneios Igoumenos.[38]TheGioumeiosSchool was founded in 1676 by a benefaction from another wealthy Ioannite Greek from Venice, Emmanuel Goumas. It was renamedBalaneiosby its rector,Balanos Vasilopoulos,in 1725. Here worked several notable personalities of theGreek Enlightenment,such asBessarion Makris,the priestsGeorgios Sougdouris(1685/7–1725) and Anastasios Papavasileiou (1715–?), the monkMethodios Anthrakites,his studentIoannis VilarasandKosmas Balanos.TheBalaneiostaught philosophy, theology and mathematics. It suffered financially from thedissolution of the Republic of Veniceby the French and finally stopped operation in 1820. The school's library, which hosted several manuscripts and epigrams, was also burned the same year following the capture of Ioannina by the troops the Sultan had sent againstAli Pasha.[39]The Maroutses family, also active in Venice, founded theMaroutsaia School,which opened in 1742 and its first directorEugenios Voulgarischampioned the study of thephysical sciences(physics and chemistry) as well as philosophy and Greek. TheMaroutsaiaalso suffered after the fall of Venice and closed in 1797 to be reopened as theKaplaneios Schoolthanks to a benefaction from an Ioannite living inRussia,Zoes Kaplanes. Its schoolmaster,Athanasios Psalidashad been a student ofMethodios Anthrakitesand had also studied inViennaand inRussia.Psalidas established an important library of thousands of volumes in several languages and laboratories for the study ofexperimental physicsandchemistrythat aroused the interest and suspicion of Ali Pasha. TheKaplaneioswas burned down along with most of the rest of the city after the entry of theSultan'sarmies in 1820. These schools took over the long tradition of theByzantineera, giving a significant boost to theGreek Enlightenment."During the 18th century",Neophytos Doukaswrote with some exaggeration, "every author of the Greek world, was either from Ioannina or was a graduate of one of the city's schools."[40]

Ali Pasha's rule (1788–1822)

[edit]
Fethiye Mosquewith the tomb ofAli Pashain the foreground. The mosque was renovated by Ali Pasha in 1795

In 1788 the city became the center of theterritoryruled byAli Pasha,an area that included the entire northwestern part of Greece, southern parts ofAlbania,Thessalyas well as parts ofEuboeaand thePeloponnese.The Ottoman-Albanian lord Ali Pasha was one of the most influential personalities of the region in the 18th and 19th centuries. Born inTepelenë,he maintained diplomatic relations with the most important European leaders of the time and his court became a point of attraction for many of those restless minds who would become major figures of theGreek Revolution(Georgios Karaiskakis,Odysseas Androutsos,Markos Botsarisand others). During this time, however, Ali Pasha committed a number of atrocities against the Greek population of Ioannina, culminating in the sewing up of local women in sacks and drowning them in the nearby lake,[41]this period of his rule coincides with the greatest economic and intellectual prosperity of the city. As a couplet has it "The city was first in arms, money and letters".

When the French scholarFrançois Pouquevillevisited the city during the early years of the 19th century, he counted 3,200 homes (2,000 Christian, 1,000 Muslim, 200 Jewish).[8]The efforts of Ali Pasha to break away from theSublime Portealarmed the Ottoman government, and in 1820 (the year before theGreek War of Independencebegan) he was declared guilty oftreasonand Ioannina was besieged by Turkish troops. Ali Pasha was assassinated in 1822 in the monastery of St Panteleimon on the island of the lake, where he took refuge while waiting to be pardoned by SultanMahmud II.[42]

Last Ottoman century (1822–1913)

[edit]

TheZosimaiawas the first significant educational foundation established after the outbreak of theGreek War of Independence(1828). It was financed by a benefaction from theZosimas brothersand began operating in 1828 and fully probably from 1833.[43]It was a School of Liberal Arts (Greek, Philosophy and Foreign Languages). The mansion of Angeliki Papazoglou became thePapazogleiosschool for girls as an endowment following her death; it operated until 1905.

Greek lithography showing the surrender of Ioannina by Essat Pasha to the Greek Crown Prince futureConstantine Iduring theFirst Balkan War.
Ioannina's central square (1932)
Main street (Dodonis Avenue) of the city (1940s or 1950s)

In 1869, a great part of Ioannina was destroyed by fire. The marketplace was soon reconstructed according to the plans of the German architect Holz, thanks to the personal interest of Ahmet Rashim Pasha, the local governor. Communities of people from Ioannina living abroad were active in financing the construction of most of the city's churches, schools and other elegant buildings of charitable establishments. The first bank of theOttoman Empire,theOttoman Bank,opened its first branch inGreece[clarification needed]in Ioannina, which shows the power of the city in world trade in the 19th century. As the 19th century came to a close, signs of national agitation emerged among some parts of the city' s population. In 1877 for example, Albanian leaders sent a memorandum to the Ottoman government demanding, among other things, the establishment of Albanian language schools and various Muslim Albanians of the Vilayet formed in Ioannina acommitteewhich aimed at defending Albanian rights, but it was inactive in general.[44][45][46][47]The Greek population of the region authorized a committee to present to European governments their wish for union with Greece; as a resultDimitrios Chasiotispublished a memorandum in Paris in 1879.[48]

According to the Ottoman censuses of 1881–1893, the city and its environs (the centralkazaof the Sanjak of Ioannina), had a population comprising 4,759 Muslims, 77,258 Greek Orthodox (including both Greek and Albanian speakers), 3,334 Jews and 207 of foreign nationality.[8]While a number of Turkish-language schools were established at the time, Greek-language education retained its prominent position. Even the city's prominent Muslim families preferred to send their children to well-established Greek institutions, notably theZosimaia.As a result, the dominance of the Greek language in the city continued: the minutes of the city council were kept in Greek, and the official newspaper,Vilayet,established in 1868, was bilingual in Turkish and Greek.[8]

By 1908 an Albanian association was already active in Ioannina with the goal of removing the Albanian schools and churches of Ioaninna from the Greek's Patriarchate sphere of influence.[49]

During the Ottoman period (turcokracy) the religious-linguistic minority of "Turco-yanniotes" (Τουρκογιαννιώτες) existed in Ioannina and neighbouring areas. These were islamized "Yaniotes" (= people from Ioannina), who spoke Greek. There is a limited number of texts written with Greek Alpha bet in their idiom.[50]

Modern period (since 1913)

[edit]

Ioannina was incorporated into the Greek state on 21 February 1913 after theBattle of Bizaniin theFirst Balkan War.The day the city came under the control of the Greek forces, aviatorChristos Adamidis,a native of the city, landed hisMaurice Farman MF.7biplane in the Town Hall square, to the adulation of an enthusiastic crowd.[51]

Following theAsia Minor Catastrophe(1922) and theTreaty of Lausanne,the Muslim population wasexchangedwith Greek refugees fromAsia Minor.A small Muslim community of Albanian origin continued to live in Ioannina after the exchange, which in 1940 counted 20 families and had decreased to 8 individuals in 1973.[52]

In 1940 duringWorld War IIthe capture of the city became one of the major objectives of the Italian Army. Nevertheless, the Greek defense inKalpakipushed back the invading Italians.[53]In April 1941 Ioannina was intensively bombed by the German forces even during the negotiations that led to the capitulation of the Greek army.[54]During the subsequentAxis occupation of Greece,the city's Jewish community was rounded up by the Germans in 1944 and mostly perished in the concentration camps.[8]On 3 October 1943, the German army murdered in reprisal nearly 100 people in the village of Lingiades, 13 kilometres distant from Ioaninna, in what is known as theLingiades massacre.

TheUniversity of Ioanninawas founded in 1970; until then, higher education faculties in the city had been part of theAristotle University of Thessaloniki.[55]

Jewish community

[edit]
See also:Romaniote JewsandAxis occupation of Greece
A young woman cries during the deportation of women and children of the Jewish community, March 1944.

According to the local Greek scholarPanayiotis Aravantinos,a synagogue destroyed in the 18th century bore an inscription which dated its foundation in the late 9th century AD.[56]The existingsynagoguewas built in 1829 and is known as the Old Synagogue. It is located in the old fortified part of the city known as"Kastro",at 16 Ioustinianou street. Its architecture is typical of theOttomanera, a large building made of stone. The interior of the synagogue is laid out in the Romaniote way: thebimah(where theTorah scrollsare read out during service) is on a raiseddaison the western wall, theAron haKodesh(where theTorah scrollsare kept) is on the eastern wall and at the middle there is a wide interioraisle.The names of the Ioanniote Jews who were killed in theHolocaustare engraved in stone on the walls of the synagogue.

The old synagogue of the city

There was aRomanioteJewish community living in Ioannina beforeWorld War II,in addition to a very small number ofSephardi.Many emigrated to New York, founding a congregation in 1906 and theKehila Kedosha Janinasynagogue in 1927.

According toRae Dalven,[citation needed]1,950 Jews were living in Ioannina in April 1941. Of these, 1,870 were deported by theNazistoconcentration campson 25 March 1944, during the final months of German occupation.[57]Almost all of the people deported were murdered on or shortly after 11 April 1944, when the train carrying them reachedAuschwitz-Birkenau.Only 181 Ioannina Jews are known to have survived the war, including 112 who survived Auschwitz and 69 who fled to join the resistance leaderNapoleon Zervasand theNational Republican Greek League(EDES). Approximately 164 of these survivors eventually returned to Ioannina.[58]

As of 2008, the remaining community has shrunk to about 50 mostly elderly people.[59][60]The Kehila Kedosha Yashan Synagogue remains locked, only opened for visitors on request. Emigrant Romaniotes return every summer and open the old synagogue. The last time aBar Mitzvah(the Jewish ritual for celebrating thecoming of ageof a child) was held in the synagogue was in 2000, and was an exceptional event for the community.[61]A monument dedicated to the thousands of Greek Jews who perished during the Holocaust was constructed in the city in a 13th-century Jewish cemetery. In 2003 the memorial was vandalized by unknown anti-Semites.[62]The Jewish cemetery too was repeatedly vandalized in 2009.[63]As a response to the vandalisms, citizens of the city formed an initiative for the protection of the cemetery and organized rallies.[64]

In the municipal election of 2019, independent candidateMoses Elisaf,a 65-year-old doctor, was elected mayor of the city, the firstJewishelected mayor in Greece. Elisaf won 50.3 percent of the vote. Elisaf received 17,789 votes, 235 more than his runoff opponent.[65][66][67]

Geography

[edit]
The city of Ioannina andLake Pamvotis,as seen from theMitsikelimountain road.

Ioannina lies at an elevation of approximately 500 metres (1,640 feet)above sea level,on the western shore ofLake Pamvotis(Παμβώτις). It is located within the Ioannina municipality, and is the capital ofIoannina regional unitand the region ofEpirus.Ioannina is located 436 km (271 mi) northwest ofAthens,290 kilometres (180 miles) southwest ofThessalonikiand 90 km (56 miles) east of the port ofIgoumenitsain theIonian Sea.

The municipality Ioannina has an area of 403.322 km2,the municipal unit Ioannina has an area of 47.440 km2,and the community Ioannina (the city proper) has an area of 17.335 km2.[68]

Districts

[edit]

The present municipality Ioannina was formed at the 2011 local government reform by the merger of the following 6 former municipalities, that became municipal units (constituent communities in brackets):[69]

  • Ioannina (Ioannina, Exochi, Marmara, Neochoropoulo, Stavraki)
  • Anatoli(Anatoli, Bafra, Neokaisareia)
  • Bizani(Ampeleia, Bizani, Asvestochori, Kontsika, Kosmira, Manoliasa, Pedini)
  • Ioannina Island(Greek:Nisos Ioanninon)
  • Pamvotida(Katsikas,Anatoliki, Vasiliki, Dafnoula, Drosochori,Iliokali,Kastritsa,Koutselio, Krapsi, Longades, Mouzakaioi, Platania, Platanas, Charokopi)
  • Perama(Perama, Amfithea, Kranoula, Krya,Kryovrysi,Ligkiades, Mazia, Perivleptos, Spothoi)

Climate

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Ioannina has a hot-summerMediterranean climate(Csa) or ahumid subtropical climate(Cfa) in theKöppen climate classification,with somewhat wetter summers than nearby coastal areas, tempered by its inland location and elevation. Summers are typically hot and moderately dry, while winters are wet and colder than on the coast with frequent frosts and occasional snowfall. Ioannina is the wettest city in mainland Greece with over 50,000 inhabitants.[citation needed]The absolute maximum temperature ever recorded was 42.4 °C (108 °F), while the absolute minimum ever recorded was −13 °C (9 °F).[70]

Climate data for Ioannina (475 m; 1956–2010)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 9.0
(48.2) 		10.4
(50.7) 		13.7
(56.7) 		17.5
(63.5) 		23.0
(73.4) 		27.7
(81.9) 		31.0
(87.8) 		31.0
(87.8) 		26.1
(79.0) 		20.6
(69.1) 		14.7
(58.5) 		10.0
(50.0) 		20.0
(68.0)
Daily mean °C (°F) 4.7
(40.5) 		6.1
(43.0) 		8.8
(47.8) 		12.4
(54.3) 		17.4
(63.3) 		21.9
(71.4) 		24.8
(76.6) 		24.3
(75.7) 		20.1
(68.2) 		14.9
(58.8) 		9.7
(49.5) 		5.9
(42.6) 		14.3
(57.7)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 0.2
(32.4) 		1.0
(33.8) 		3.2
(37.8) 		6.1
(43.0) 		9.8
(49.6) 		13.0
(55.4) 		15.2
(59.4) 		15.3
(59.5) 		12.2
(54.0) 		8.6
(47.5) 		4.8
(40.6) 		1.7
(35.1) 		7.5
(45.5)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 122.5
(4.82) 		112.5
(4.43) 		94.9
(3.74) 		76.5
(3.01) 		66.9
(2.63) 		44.1
(1.74) 		31.7
(1.25) 		30.2
(1.19) 		62.4
(2.46) 		107.5
(4.23) 		168.8
(6.65) 		171.3
(6.74) 		1,089.3
(42.89)
Average precipitation days 13.3 12.4 12.8 12.6 11.0 6.9 4.8 4.8 6.5 9.7 13.7 15.2 123.7
Averagerelative humidity(%) 76.9 73.7 69.5 67.9 65.9 59.1 52.4 54.4 63.6 70.8 79.8 81.5 68.0
Mean monthlysunshine hours 95.3 107.9 143.4 165.2 225.2 296.0 320.7 296.0 208.2 160.4 98.1 75.2 2,191.6
Source: Greek National Weather Service[71]

Demography

[edit]

According to the 2021 census the resident population fell by 4.2%. Men constitute 48.9% and women 51.1% of the total population.[72]

Population censuses, 1981–2021
Year Town Municipal unit Municipality Men Women
1913[73] 16,804 – –
1920[74] 20,765 – –
1928[75] 20,485 – –
1940[76] 21,887 – –
1951[77] 32,315 – –
1961[78] 34,997 – –
1971[79] 40,130 – –
1981[80] 44,829 – –
1991[81] 56,699 – –
2001[82] 67,384 – 75,550
2011 65,574 80,371 112,486[72] 53,975 58,511
2021 64,896 81,627 113,978[72] 54,951 59,027

Landmarks and sights

[edit]

Isle of Lake Pamvotis

[edit]
Main article:Ioannina Island
Ioannina Islandin the lake

One of the most notable attractions of Ioannina is the inhabited island ofLake Pamvotiswhich is simply referred to asIsland of Ioannina.The island is a short ferry trip from the mainland and can be reached on small motorboats running on varying frequencies depending on the season. The monastery of St Panteleimon, whereAli Pashaspent his last days waiting for a pardon from theSultan,is now a museum housing everyday artefacts and relics of his period.[83]There are six monasteries on the island: the monastery of St Nicholas (Ntiliou) or Strategopoulou (11th century), the Monastery of St Nicholas (Spanou) or Philanthropinon (1292), St John the Baptist (1506), Eleousis (1570), St Panteleimon (17th century), and of the Transfiguration of Christ (1851). The monasteries of Strategopoulou and Philanthropinon also functioned as colleges. Alexios Spanos, the monks Proklos and Comnenos, and the Apsarades brothers Theophanis and Nektarios are among those that taught there.[35]The school continued its activities until 1758, when it was superseded by the newer collegial institutions within the city. The island's winding streets are also home to many gift-shops, tavernas, churches and bakeries.

Ioannina Castle

[edit]
Main article:Ioannina Castle
A gate of the castle
Wall of the castle
Tomb of Ali Pasha
Byzantine museum

At the south-eastern edge of the town on a rocky peninsula ofLake Pamvotis,the castle was the administrative heart of theDespotate of Epirus,and the Ottomanvilayet.The castle was in constant use until the late Ottoman period and the fortifications underwent several modifications throughout the centuries. The most extensive alterations where conducted during the rule ofAli Pashaand were completed in 1815.[84]Several monuments such as the Byzantine baths, the Ottoman baths, the Ottoman library, and theSoufari Saraiare found within the castle's walls.[85]There are two citadels in the castle. The south-eastern citadel, which bears the nameIts Kale(Ιτς Καλέ, from TurkishIç Kale,'inner fortress')[citation needed]is where theFethiye Mosque,the tomb ofAli Pasha,and theByzantine Museumare located.[86]The north-eastern citadel is dominated by theAslan Pasha Mosqueand also contains a few other monuments dating from the Ottoman period.[86]The oldJewish Synagogue of Ioanninais within the walls of the castle and is one of the oldest and largest buildings of its type surviving in Greece.[87][86]

The city

[edit]

Several religious and secular monuments survive from the Ottoman period. In addition to the two mosques surviving within the walls of the castle, two further mosques are preserved outside the walls. TheMosque and Madrassa of Veli Pashaare in the centre of the city,[88]andKaloutsiani Mosquecan be found in the area of the city with the same name.[89]The now derelict "House of the Archbishop", near the football stadium, is the only old mansion that survived the fire of 1820.[90]Some of the notable landmarks in the city centre also date from the late Ottoman period. The municipal clock tower of Ioannina, designed by local architect Periklis Meliritos, was erected in 1905 to celebrate the Jubilee of sultanAbdul Hamid II.The adjacent building houses theVIII Divisionheadquarters. It dates from the late 19th century.[91][92]Someneoclassicalbuildings such the post office, the oldZosimaia School,the Papazogleios Weaving School, and the former Commercial School date from the late Ottoman period as do a fewarcadesin the old commercial centre of the city like Stoa Louli and Stoa Liampei.[93]The churches of theAssumption of the Virginat Perivleptos,Saint Nicholas of KopanonandSaint Marinawere rebuilt in the 1850s by funds from Nikolaos Zosimas and his brothers on the foundations of previous churches that perished in the great fire of 1820. TheCathedral of St Athanasiuswas completed in 1933. It was built on the foundations of the previous Orthodox cathedral which was destroyed in the fires of 1820. It is a three-aisledbasilica.

Culture

[edit]
Street near the castle
The city hall
Municipal Art Gallery of Ioannina
Road to the clocktower, Averof street
Clocktower in central Dimokratias Square

Museums and galleries

[edit]
Silversmithing museum

Some of the most important museums of the city are within the walls of the castle. TheMunicipal Ethnographic Museumis hosted inAslan Pasha Mosquein the north-east citadel. It is divided into three departments, each one representing one of the main communities that inhabited the city: Greek, Muslim, and Jewish.[94]TheByzantine Museumis in the south-eastern citadel of the castle. The museum opened in 1995 in order to preserve and present artefacts of the wider region of Epirus covering the period from the 4th to the 19th century.[95]The newest addition to the city's museum, the silversmithing museum, is also in the south-eastern citadel. It is housed in the western bastion of the citadel and outlines the history of the art of silversmithing in Epirus.[96] Outside the walls of the castle, close to the town centre, one will find theArchaeological Museum of Ioannina.It is in the Litharitsia fortress area. It includes archaeological exhibits documenting the human habitation of Epirus from prehistoric times through the late Roman Period, with special emphasis placed on finds from theDodonasanctuary.[97]TheMunicipal Art Gallery of Ioannina(Dimotiki Pinakothiki) is housed in the Pyrsinella neoclassical building dating from around 1890. The gallery's collection displays major modern works of painters and sculptors, collected through purchases and donations from various collectors and artists. This includes about 500 works, paintings, drawings, prints, pictures and sculptures.[98]ThePavlos Vrellis Greek History Museumis 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) south of the city. It is awax museumwhich covers events and personalities from Greek history as well as the history of the region and is the result of the personal work of Pavlos Vrellis.[99]

Exhibitions

[edit]

A digital art exhibition, Plásmata II, was organised by the Onassis Cultural Center in the lakeside ofPamvotis,in the summer of 2023.[100]More than 100,000 people visited the exhibition.[101]It is a new entry for the city and future actions in every area with the help of Onassis Cultural Center.[102]

Education

[edit]
Buildings of the University of Ioannina
Entrance of Zosimaia Library

TheUniversity of Ioannina(Greek:Πανεπιστήμιο Ιωαννίνων,Panepistimio Ioanninon) is a university five kilometres southwest of Ioannina. The university was founded in 1964, as a charter of theAristotle University of Thessalonikiand became an independent university in 1970. Today, the university is one of the leading academic institutions in Greece.[103][104][105][106][107]

As of 2017, there was a student population of 25,000 enrolled at the university (21,900 at theundergraduatelevel and 3,200 at thepostgraduatelevel) and 580 faculty members, while teaching is further supplemented by 171 teaching fellows and 132 laboratory staff. The university administrative services are staffed with 420 employees.[108][109]

Local products

[edit]
  • Ioannina is known throughout Greece for its silverwork, with a number of shops selling silver jewelry, bronzeware, and decorative items (serving trays, recreations of shields and swords.)
  • Hookahs(nargiles,ναργιλές) are sold to tourists as novelty items and vary in size from small (three inches in height) to quite large (4–5 ft (1–2 m) tall).

Cuisine

[edit]
Further information:Epirotic cuisine
  • The area is famous for its spring water fromZagori,sold throughoutGreece.
  • The region of Ioannina is well known for the production offetacheese.
  • Ioannina is also famous for itsbaklava.[110]
  • Frogandeel,especially famous on Ioannina Island.[111]

Media

[edit]

Technology hub development

[edit]

Beginning in the early 2020s, Ioannina has started to evolve into a significant technology hub. The city has attracted technology companies, which have helped to bolster Ioannina's technological capacity and contributed to a new economic trajectory for the city, driving development in this sector.[112]

Additionally, the prefecture has been actively fostering partnerships between Greek and German companies in a bid to further strengthen the local economy and tech ecosystem. A Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) was signed with the Greek-German Chamber, outlining the recovery plan for the region, a move that has been seen as a significant step in boosting technological development in Ioannina.[113]

Consulates

[edit]

The city hostsconsulatesfrom the following countries:

Ioannina compromise

[edit]
Main article:Ioannina compromise

An informal meeting of the foreign ministers of the states of the European Union took place in Ioannina on 27 March 1994, resulting in the Ioannina compromise.

Notable people from Ioannina

[edit]
Zois Kaplanis
Athanasios Psalidas
Georgios Stavros

Sports

[edit]

Sport clubs

[edit]

Ioannina is home to a major sports team calledPAS Giannina.It's an inspiration for many of old as well as new supporters of the whole region ofEpirus,even outside Ioannina. Rowing is also very popular in Ioannina; the lake hosted several international events and serves as the venue for part of the annual Greek Rowing Championships.

Sport clubs based in Ioannina
Club Founded Sports Achievements
NO Ioanninon 1954 Rowing Long-time champions in Greece
Spartakos AO 1984 Olympic weightlifting,Judo,Track and field,Basketball Long-time champions in Greece in weightlifting
PAS Giannina 1966 Football Long-time presence in A Ethniki
AGS Giannena 1963 Basketball,Volleyball,Track and field Earlier presence in A1 Ethniki volleyball
AE Giannena F.C. 2004 Football Earlier presence in Gamma Ethniki
Giannena AS 2014 Volleyball Presence in A2 Ethniki volleyball
Ioannina B.C. 2015 Basketball Presence in B Ethniki
VIKOS FALCONS 2021 Basketball Presence in B Ethniki

Sport complex

[edit]
Sport complex based in Ioannina
Club Founded Sports Clubs:
Zosimades Stadium 1952 Football PAS Giannina
Panepirotan 2002 Basketball,Volleyball,Track and field PAS Giannina,AO Velissarios FC[129]AE Giannena

Transport

[edit]
[edit]

International relations

[edit]
See also:List of twin towns and sister cities in Greece

Twin towns – sister cities

[edit]

Ioannina istwinnedwith:

See also

[edit]

Citations

[edit]
  1. ^"Municipality of Ioannina, Municipal elections – October 2023".Ministry of Interior.
  2. ^"Αποτελέσματα Απογραφής Πληθυσμού - Κατοικιών 2021, Μόνιμος Πληθυσμός κατά οικισμό"[Results of the 2021 Population - Housing Census, Permanent population by settlement] (in Greek). Hellenic Statistical Authority. 29 March 2024.
  3. ^Sakellariou M. V.Epirus, 4000 years of Greek history and civilizationArchived30 September 2023 at theWayback Machine.Ekdotikē Athēnōn, 1997,ISBN978-960-213-371-2p. 268
  4. ^Fleming Katherine Elizabeth.The Muslim Bonaparte: diplomacy and orientalism in Ali Pasha's Greece.Princeton University Press, 1999.ISBN978-0-691-00194-4.p. 63-66
  5. ^The Era of Enlightenment (late 7th century – 1821)Archived26 May 2011 at theWayback Machine.Εθνικό Kέντρο Bιβλίου, p. 13
  6. ^Υπουργείο Εσωτερικών, Αποκέντρωσης και Ηλεκρονικής ΔιακυβέρνησηςΠεριφέρεια ΗπείρουArchived29 June 2010 at theWayback Machine:"Στη δεκαετία του 1790 ο νεοελληνικός διαφωτισμός έφθασε στο κορύφωμά του. ΦορέαA_1του πνεύματος στα Ιωάννινα είναι ο Αθανάσιος ΨαλίδαA_."
  7. ^Osswald, Brendan (2008). "From Lieux de Pouvoir to Lieux de Mémoire: The Monuments of the Medieval Castle of Ioannina through the Centuries". In Hálfdanarson, Gudmundur (ed.).Discrimination and tolerance in historical perspective.Pisa: PLUS-Pisa University Press. p. 188.ISBN978-88-8492-558-9.
  8. ^abcdefghijAnastassiadou 2002,pp. 282–283.
  9. ^Charisis, Ch. (2019)."Το όνομα των Ιωαννίνων"[The name of the Ioannina].Volume of Proceedings of the 3rd Panepirot Conference(in Greek). Janina: Society for Continental Studies and Foundation for Ionian and Adriatic Studies.Archivedfrom the original on 30 September 2023.Retrieved12 December2022.
  10. ^"Πώς και από ποιον προήλθε το όνομα των Ιωαννίνων"[How and from whom came the name of Ioannina].Ελευθερία(in Greek). January 2019.Archivedfrom the original on 11 May 2022.Retrieved8 March2019.
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