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Oban

Coordinates:56°24′43″N5°28′19″W/ 56.412°N 5.472°W/56.412; -5.472
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Oban
Townand formerburgh of barony
A view over Oban fromMcCaig's Tower
Oban is located in Argyll and Bute
Oban
Oban
Location withinArgyll and Bute
Population8,140 (2022)[2]
OS grid referenceNM859298
Edinburgh93 mi (150 km)
London402 mi (647 km)
Council area
Lieutenancy area
CountryScotland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townOBAN
Postcode districtPA34
Dialling code01631
PoliceScotland
FireScottish
AmbulanceScottish
UK Parliament
Scottish Parliament
List of places
UK
Scotland
56°24′43″N5°28′19″W/ 56.412°N 5.472°W/56.412; -5.472

Oban(/ˈbən/OH-bən;[3]Scottish Gaelic:An t-Òban[ən̪ˠˈt̪ɔːpan]meaningThe Little Bay) is aresort townwithin theArgyll and Butecouncil area ofScotland.Despite its small size, it is the largest town betweenHelensburghandFort William.During the tourist season, the town can have a temporary population of up to over 24,000 people.[4]Oban occupies a setting in theFirth of Lorn.The bay forms a near perfect horseshoe, protected by the island ofKerrera;and beyond Kerrera, theIsle of Mull.To the north are the long low island ofLismoreand the mountains ofMorvernandArdgour.

Pre-history and archaeology

[edit]

Humans have used the site where Oban now stands since at leastMesolithictimes, as evidenced by archaeological remains of cave dwellers found in the town.[5]Just outside the town, standsDunollie Castle,[6]on a site that overlooks the main entrance to the bay and has been fortified since theBronze Age.

Just to the north of Oban, at Dunstaffnage, excavations in 2010, by Argyll Archaeology in advance of the development of the European Marine Science Park, found evidence that people were also living in the area from theNeolithicto the Early Historic periods. The archaeologists discovered funerary pyres that were in use for several generations during the LateIron Ageand a farmstead in use sometime between the late 7th to 9th centuries AD.[7]

History

[edit]

Prior to the 19th century, the town itself supported very few households, sustaining only minor fishing, trading, shipbuilding and quarrying industries, and a fewhardy tourists.[8]The Renfrew trading company established a storehouse there around 1714, as a local outlet for its merchandise, but a custom-house was not deemed necessary until 1736, with "Oban being reckoned a proper place for clearing out vessels for the herring fishery".

The modern town of Oban grew up aroundthe distillery,which was founded there in 1794. A royal charter raised the town to aburgh of baronyin 1811.[9]Sir Walter Scottvisited the area in 1814, the year in which he published his poemThe Lord of the Isles;interest in the poem brought many new visitors to the town. The town was made a Parliamentary Burgh in 1833. A rail link – theCallander and Oban Railway– was authorised in 1864 but took years to reach the town. The final stretch of track to Oban opened on 30 June 1880. This brought further prosperity, revitalising local industry and giving new energy to tourism. Also at this time work on the ill-fatedOban Hydrocommenced; the enterprise was abandoned[10]and left to fall into disrepair after 1882 when Dr Orr, the scheme's originator, realised he had grossly underestimated its cost. Work onMcCaig's Tower,a prominent local landmark, started in 1895. Paid for by John Stewart McCaig (1824–1902) the construction aimed, in hard times, to give work for local stonemasons. However, its construction ceased in 1902 on the death of its benefactor.

Built in 1897 for James Gemmel Boutein, Glencruitten House was built on the site of an earlier estate. NowCategory B Listed,[11]the building is a Scottish-style castle, or Scots Baronial house, that was significantly altered in 1903. A library wing was added in 1927/1928. The original architect, Edward Appin, was also involved in the work completed in 1903.Robert Lorimerof the Lorimer & Matthew firm, guided the additions made in the 1920s for Alexander Mackay, the owner at that time. The House has been aB-listedproperty since 1971.[11][12]The contents were to be sold off by auction in 2003, including some furniture designed by Lorimer. Reports at that time shed additional light on the previous owners of the House, indicating that the MacKay family "at the Argyll house" had owned the property for four generations, since 1917 when it was acquired by "the venture capitalist Alexander MacKay";[13]the original owner was listed as the Shelly-Bonteyn family. MacKay and his son Robert Ferrier Burns Mackay were said to be significant collectors of art, including works by "SirDavid Young Cameron(1865–1945) andJames McBey(1883–1959) ".[14][15]For some time prior to 2020, Glencruitten House was owned by a religious community who listed it for sale that year.[16]The listing for sale provided additional specifics: the House contained "woodwork and panelling believed to be by Clow Bros and Louis Davis stained glass windows. Also within the library is an original grade A listed Ingram organ with Welte Philharmonic roleplay mechanism (not fully operational)". The listing also stated that "remedial work [was] recently undertaken by the current owner".[17]

Oban in 1900

DuringWorld War II(1939–1945)MerchantandRoyal Navyships used Oban as an important base in theBattle of the Atlantic.TheRoyal Navyhad a signal station near Ganavan, and ananti-submarineindicator loopstation, which detected any surface or submarine vessels between Oban,MullandLismore.There was a controlledminefieldin theSound of Kerrera,which was operated from a building near the caravan site at Gallanach. ARoyal Air Forceflying-boatbase operated at Ganavan and onKerrera,and an airfield atNorth Connel– built by the Royal Air Force. A Sector Operations Room was built near the airfield; after the war, this was extended to become theRoyal Observer CorpsGroup HQ.

Oban was also important during theCold Warbecause the firstTransatlantic Telephone Cable(TAT-1) came ashore at Gallanach Bay. This carried theHot Linebetween theUS PresidentsandUSSR General Secretaries.At North Connel, next to the airfield/airport was the NRC (Nuclear Reporting Cell) of the Royal Observer Corps (29 October 1925 to 31 December 1995).

Since the 1950s, the principal industry has remained tourism, though the town is also an important ferry port, acting as the hub forCaledonian MacBrayneferries to many of the islands of the Inner and OuterHebrides.

TheRoyal National Lifeboat InstitutionopenedOban Lifeboat Stationin 1972.[18]

Climate

[edit]

As with the rest of theBritish Isles,Oban experiences amaritime climatewith cool summers and mild winters. The nearest officialMet Officeweather station for which online records are available is located at Dunstaffnage, about 2.7 miles (4.3 km) north-north-east of Oban town centre. Rainfall is high, but thanks to theGulf Stream,the temperature seldom falls below 0 °C (32 °F).

Climate data for Dunstaffnage (1991-2020 normals, extremes 1972-2022)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 13.9
(57.0)
14.9
(58.8)
18.7
(65.7)
23.7
(74.7)
27.2
(81.0)
29.1
(84.4)
29.3
(84.7)
28.6
(83.5)
25.9
(78.6)
20.1
(68.2)
17.0
(62.6)
14.8
(58.6)
29.3
(84.7)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 7.5
(45.5)
7.8
(46.0)
9.3
(48.7)
11.9
(53.4)
14.9
(58.8)
16.8
(62.2)
18.2
(64.8)
18.1
(64.6)
16.2
(61.2)
13.1
(55.6)
10.0
(50.0)
8.0
(46.4)
12.7
(54.8)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.7
(36.9)
2.6
(36.7)
3.4
(38.1)
5.0
(41.0)
7.1
(44.8)
9.6
(49.3)
11.4
(52.5)
11.4
(52.5)
9.9
(49.8)
7.5
(45.5)
5.0
(41.0)
2.9
(37.2)
6.5
(43.8)
Record low °C (°F) −8.7
(16.3)
−7.2
(19.0)
−6.0
(21.2)
−3.9
(25.0)
−1.9
(28.6)
0.8
(33.4)
4.2
(39.6)
2.7
(36.9)
−0.6
(30.9)
−2.3
(27.9)
−4.2
(24.4)
−8.3
(17.1)
−8.7
(16.3)
Averageprecipitationmm (inches) 206.2
(8.12)
156.0
(6.14)
137.1
(5.40)
91.6
(3.61)
94.9
(3.74)
95.8
(3.77)
109.9
(4.33)
129.9
(5.11)
140.9
(5.55)
189.3
(7.45)
178.3
(7.02)
197.9
(7.79)
1,727.9
(68.03)
Average precipitation days(≥ 1 mm) 20.5 17.4 17.4 13.8 13.8 14.2 15.7 16.8 16.3 19.0 19.7 19.6 204.1
Mean monthlysunshine hours 32.4 62.6 94.9 147.2 192.1 171.0 135.0 135.4 99.1 77.7 46.3 33.3 1,227
Source 1: Met Office[19]
Source 2: CEDA Archive (extremes)[20]

Culture

[edit]

The local culture isGaelic.In 2011, 8.2% of the town's population over age 3 could speak Gaelic and 11.3% had some facility in the language.[21]Oban is considered the home of theRoyal National Mòd,since it was first held there in 1892, with ten competitors on a Saturday afternoon. The town hosted the centenary Mod in 1992 (the year it became Royal) and in 2003 the 100th Mod. These two events attracted thousands of competitors and visitors (the 100th Mod was later than the centenary because it was not held in the war years). The Mod is held in Oban roughly every 6–8 years, and has last been held in October 2015.

An annual Highland Games, known as theArgyllshire Gathering,[22]is also held in the town.

The Corran Halls[23]theatre acts as a venue for community events, local and touring entertainers, and touring companies such asScottish Opera.

The town had a two-screencinema,which closed in early 2010. Thanks to a local community initiative supported by a number of famous names,[24]it reopened in August 2012 as the Phoenix Cinema.[25]Oban has itself been used as a backdrop to several films, includingRing of Bright WaterandMorvern Callar.

The Oban War and Peace Museum advances the education of present and future generations by collecting, maintaining, conserving and exhibiting items of historical and cultural interest relating to the Oban area in peacetime and during the war years. A museum also operates withinOban Distillery,just behind the main seafront. The distillation ofwhiskyin Oban predates the town: whisky has been produced on the site since 1794.[26]TheHope MacDougallcollection[27]is a unique record of the working and domestic lives of people in Scotland.

Music is central to Gaelic culture, and there is lively interest in the town. In the 2010pipe bandseason, the localOban High SchoolPipe Band, led byAngus MacColl,was successful in winning theWorld Pipe Band ChampionshipsinGlasgow,the Cowal Games competition, and the Champion of Champions for the year in the novice-juvenile grade. The town also boasts a successful senior pipe band.[28]The local Gaelic choir[29]competes regularly and successfully in the Mod.

The town has been the birthplace and home of a number of well-knownpeople.

Oban Bay fromMcCaig's Tower.The bay is sheltered by the island ofKerrera.Behind lies theIsle of Mull.
Oban and bay at night, noteMcCaig's Toweris illuminated.

Local attractions

[edit]

The most prominent attraction in Oban isMcCaig's Towerwhich is visible from a great portion of the town. Construction of the tower began in 1897, funded by John Stuart McCaig as a way of providing work for local stonemasons and to serve as a lasting legacy for his family.[30]McCaig died in 1902, and although construction was set to continue, with McCaig promising £1000 a year for its construction to continue, his family challenged this in court and won, stopping construction.[31]

The area around Oban has a dramatic scenery of the coast and mountains, as well as historically valuable local castles and ancient religious sites. North of the town the natural rock formation of Fingal's Dogstone is connected in legend to theGiant's CausewayinNorthern Ireland.[32]

The Oban Visitor Information Centre, operated byVisitScotland,is located in the Columba Buildings on the North Pier. TheOban & Lorn Tourism Alliancealso provides information about local attractions at the official web site.[33]

Transport

[edit]
Lochboisdale,South Uist
Eriskay
Ardmore, Barra
Castlebay,Barra
Baile Mòr, Iona
Fionnphort,Mull
Tobermory, MullRight arrowKilchoan
Fishnish,MullRight arrowLochaline
Craignure,Mull
Scarinish,Tiree
Arinagour,Coll
Achnacroish,Lismore
Scalasaig,Colonsay
Oban

Oban lies at the western end of theA85 road.A number ofScotRailtrains run betweenOban railway stationandGlasgow Queen Streetdaily. The town is an important ferry port: it isCaledonian MacBrayne's busiest terminal. Oban is known as the "Gateway to the Isles",[34]with ferries sailing to the islands ofLismore,Colonsay,Islay,Coll,Tiree,toCraignureonMull,toCastlebayonBarraand toLochboisdaleonSouth Uist.In 2005, a new ferry terminal was opened, and in 2007 a secondlinkspanopened, allowing two vessels to load/unload at the same time.

Scottish Citylinkrun buses from Glasgow'sBuchanan bus stationseveral times a day; in summer, buses run from Dundee via Perth (route 973) and to Edinburgh via Stirling (route 978).

West Coast Motorsoperate many local services and also coach links as far south asLochgilpheadand as far north as Fort William.

TheIsle of Mullferry leaving the terminal

Formerly, Oban also had direct passenger railway services to Edinburgh. The scenic line, which ran via Glen Dochart, Strathyre, Callander, Dunblane and Stirling, closed in 1965. Railway services north to Ballachulish on Loch Leven were withdrawn in 1966. (These services were withdrawn as a result of theBeeching cuts.)

Oban has anairportoutside the village ofNorth Connel,[35]some 5 miles (8 km) NE of the town. The airport has regular connections to Islay, Colonsay and Tiree, with flight-times of just half an hour. The code for Oban Airport is (OBN) and the only airline flying from the airport is Hebridean Air Services.[36]The airport featured in a 2021 episode of Top Gear.[37]

Education

[edit]

Oban has a primary school campus located in the south of the town along with Park Primary School at the north of the town, and a major high school,Oban High School.In 2019, £36 million was spent on a new building for the high school, replacing the original 1890 building which was subsequently demolished.[38]

Secondary school pupils are drawn from a wide surrounding catchment area, with some pupils having long commutes to and from school every day. Students who live on surrounding islands such asCollorMullstay at a local hostel during the school week. The school funds the hostel so that the families of the students don't have to pay themselves.

The building formerly used as Rockfield Primary School has now been taken over by the Community and is being extensively refurbished.[39]It has also been used as a polling station for areas of the town.[40]

Media

[edit]

Television signals are received from the Torosay and local relay transmitters.[41][42]

Oban FM is the town's local radio station which broadcast local news and entertainment on 103.3 FM.[43]

The town is also served byBBC Radio Scotlandon 93.3 FM.

The Oban Timesis the weekly local newspaper which publishes on every Thursdays.[44]

Churches

[edit]
St Columba's Cathedral

Oban is served by Kilmore & Oban Parish Church of theChurch of Scotland.There are two church buildings in the united parish, namely at Glencruitten Road as well as Kilmore Church. The minister (since 2007) is the Rev. Dugald Cameron, who formerly served atSt. John's Renfield Church, Glasgow.[45]

A third church, the former Corran Esplanade Church (opened in 1957 as Christ Church) at Corran Esplanade in the town, is now closed.[46]

A fourth church, St Columba's Argyll Square Church was opened in 1888 and closed in 1984.[47]

The mother church of theRoman Catholic Diocese of Argyll and the IslesisSt Columba's Cathedralat the north end of the Esplanade. During the 19th century, the Rector of thePro-Cathedralwas FatherAllan MacDonald,a poet andGaelicscholar. The present cathedral was designed by SirGiles Gilbert Scottand constructed between 1932 and 1959.

TheScottish Episcopal Churchis represented in Oban by theCathedral Church of St John the Divine,situated in George Street.[48]It is one of two cathedrals of the unitedDiocese of Argyll and the Isles,the other being theCathedral of the IslesinMillport,Isle of Cumbrae.

There are several other churches in the town, including theFree Church of Scotlandin Rockfield Road, theBaptist Churchin Albany Street,Salvation Armyin Stevenson Street,Elim Pentecostal Churchin Soroba Road, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and the Lorn Christian Fellowship (Independent) both of whom meet at Oban High School and theAssociated Presbyterian Churchin Campbell Street.[49]The Congregational Church in Tweedale Street was built in 1880.[50]

A Kingdom Hall of Jehovah's Witnesses is located nearby at 57 Lorn Road, Dunbeg.

Cemeteries

[edit]

Pennyfuir Cemetery,to the north of the town, contains several notable burials, includingFrances Shand Kydd,the mother ofDiana, Princess of Wales,and four casualties of the 1942Dunbeath air crashwhich also killedPrince George, Duke of Kent.[51]

Sport

[edit]

Oban's proximity to the mountains and the sea means that a wide array of sports are available to visitors and locals, from scuba-diving to coasteering to sailing to mountain biking to winter mountaineering. Other activities of note in the town are:

The local amateurfootballteam isOban Saintswith a small stadium situated in Mossfield. However,shintyis a more popular game locally, with two major teams,Oban CamanachdandOban Celtic,in the town. TheOban Timesruns a "Spot the Shinty Ball" competition each week. ObanCricketClub was formed in 2003 and plays in nearbyTaynuilt.Oban LorneRugby FootballClub turned 50 years old in 2012, and competes in the RBS West region.[52]The Highlanderswere aWorld Wrestling Entertainmentwrestling tag-team originally from Oban. GlencruittenGolfcourse was designed by professional golferJames Braidin the early 1900s,[53]and offers a challenging 18 holes across difficult terrain.

The West HighlandTennisChampionships are held annually in July and attract some of Scotland's best players to the town. Past champions includeColin Flemingand Judy Murray.[54]

Oban also has a thrivingmartial artsscene, withkarate,kick bo xing,mixed martial arts,andbo xingall available.

Watersports are an obvious activity in a seaport, andsailingis very popular. West Highland Week[55]brings sailors from around the world to the town every year. A raft race regularly takes place in the bay which offers a chance for locals to win prizes and trophies.[56]Scuba divingis also readily available. Thewreck divingis spectacular, with theSound of Mulloffering some truly world-class dive sites. Although weather and visibility can be variable, the local geography means that a dive somewhere can always be achieved.

Notable people

[edit]

Town twinning

[edit]

Laurinburg, North Carolina,United Statesbecame a twin town to Oban in 1993. The initial agreement was between Scotland County, North Carolina, and Argyll & Bute District Council. Following reorganisation in 1995, the agreement was confirmed by Argyll & Bute Council in 1997. The local High School takes part in a yearly exchange with students from the Scotland High School.[58]In 1997, Oban was also twinned withGorey,County Wexford,Ireland.[59]

References

[edit]
  1. ^"Ainmean-Àite na h-Alba ~ Gaelic Place-names of ScotlandGaelic Place-names of Scotland ".
  2. ^"Mid-2020 Population Estimates for Settlements and Localities in Scotland".National Records of Scotland.31 March 2022.Retrieved31 March2022.
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  52. ^"50th Birthday Celebration for Oban Lorne".[permanent dead link]
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  54. ^"West Highland Tennis Week".Archivedfrom the original on 10 June 2008.Retrieved6 July2009.
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Further reading

[edit]
  • Hughes, Mike,The Hebrides at War.Canongate Books, 1998,ISBN0-86241-771-6.
  • Batstone, Stephanie,Wren's Eye View: The Adventures of a Visual Signaller,Parapress Ltd, 1994,ISBN1-898594-12-0.Written by a Wren based in Oban for most of WWII.
[edit]