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Époisses

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Époisses
Country of originFrance
RegionCôte-d'Or
TownÉpoisses
Source of milkCows
PasteurizedSome
TextureSoft,washed rind
Aging timeAt least six weeks
CertificationFrenchAOC1991
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Époisses(French pronunciation:[epwas]), also known asÉpoisses de Bourgogne(French:[epwasbuʁɡɔɲ]), is a legally demarcatedcheesemade in the village ofÉpoissesand its environs, in thedépartement of Côte-d'Or,about halfway betweenDijonandAuxerre,in the formerduchy of Burgundy,France, from agricultural processes and resources traditionally found in that region.

Époisses is a pungent soft-pastecow's-milk cheese.Smear-ripened,"washed rind"(washed in brine andMarc de Bourgogne,the localpomace brandy), it is circular at around either 10 cm (4 in) or 18 cm (7 in) in diameter, with a distinctive soft red-orange color. It is made either from raw or pasteurized milk.[1]The rind is edible.[2]

History

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French cheese Époisses brand Germain in a box

At the start of the sixteenth century, the village was home to a community ofCisterciansatCîteaux Abbeythat, according to oral legend, began production of the cheese. Two hundred years later, when the community left, local farmers inherited the recipe, which developed over the next century.Napoleonwas particularly fond of the cheese.[3]

In 1956 a pair ofsmall farmers,Robert and Simone Berthaut, decided to re-launch the production of Époisses by mobilizing the traditional skills of those who still knew how to make the cheese. Berthaut Époisses increasingly gained favor among its devotees and became a spectacular success. The business is now carried on by their son, Jean Berthaut. Fromagerie Berthaut is currently responsible for the manufacture of all fermier Époisses, although severalartisanalfromageriesnow manufacture the cheese.[3]

Manufacture

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Époisses cheese and white wine withsourdoughbread

At the first stage of manufacture, the wholemilkis heated to around 30 °C (86 °F) with the coagulation lasting for at least 16 hours. The fragilecurdsare drained in moulds, and thewheyis then allowed to run off. Around 48 hours later the cheese is removed, salted, and placed on racks to dry; once dry, it is moved to cellars to mature.

Each cheese is rinsed up to three times per week in a mixture of water andmarc,and brushed by hand to spread thebacteriaevenly over the surface. Theyeastand fermenting agents produce the distinctive orange-red exterior, as it develops over a period of around six weeks.

In 1991, the cheese was awardedappellation d'origine contrôlée(AOC) status, which states that the manufacture must follow the following rules:[3][4]

  • The milk's coagulation must be performed bylactic acidand continue for 16 hours.
  • The curd must be cut roughly as opposed to being broken.
  • After drainage, only dry salt may be used.

Under AOC regulation, only cheese made in listed communes in theCôte-d'Or,Haute-Marne,andYonnedepartments may bear the appellation.[4]

See also

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References

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Footnotes

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  1. ^"L'Epoisses AOP".Gaugry Fromager.Retrieved13 June2016.
  2. ^"Epoisses de Bourgogne AOP".Base Alimentare(in Italian).Retrieved26 July2024.
  3. ^abcMasui & Yamada 1996,p. 133.
  4. ^ab"Epoisses"(in French). INAO. Archived fromthe originalon 14 March 2017.Retrieved6 July2008.

Bibliography

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  • Masui, Kazuko; Yamada, Tomoko (1996).French Cheeses.London: Dorling Kindersley.ISBN0-7513-0896-X.

Further reading

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  • Fletcher, Janet Kessel (2007).Cheese & Wine: A Guide to Selecting, Pairing, and Enjoying.Photographs by Victoria Pearson. San Francisco: Chronicle Books.ISBN978-0-8118-5743-7.
  • Grescoe, Taras(2006).The Devil's Picnic: Around the World in Pursuit of Forbidden Fruit.Toronto: HarperCollins.ISBN0-00-200780-0.
  • McCalman, Max;Gibbons, David (2002).The Cheese Plate.New York: Clarkson Potter.ISBN0-609-60496-1.
  • Risoud, Georges (2000).Histoire du fromage d'Époisses: chronique agitée d'un fromage peu banal(in French). Précy-sous-Thil: Éditions de l'Armançon.ISBN2-84479-014-3.
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