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Big wall climbing

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Big wall climbingis a form ofrock climbingthat takes place on longmulti-pitchroutes(ofat least6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres) that normally require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. In addition, big wall routes are typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers remain suspended from the rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless theyabseilback down the whole route, which is a complex and risky action. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing.

Big wall climbing is typically done in pairs in atraditional climbingformat, but with the distinction that the non-lead climber usually ascends byjumaringup afixed ropeto save time and energy. It requires an extensive range of supplies and equipment over and above that of traditional climbing that is carried inhaul bags,includingportaledges,aid climbingequipment,poop tubes,and food and water. It requires additional techniques such as pendulums/tension traversing, aid climbing, usingtrail ropes,jumaring, and sometimessimul climbing.

Big wall climbing began in theDolomiteswith early pioneers such asEmilio Comiciinventing many of the first techniques and tools in the 1930s, and then spreading throughout the entire European Alps by climbers such asRiccardo CassinandWalter Bonattiwith his milestone solo ascent of theDruin 1955. From the 1960s, American climbers led byRoyal RobbinsdevelopedYosemiteinto the most important big wall climbing venue in the world, withLynn Hill's 1993first free ascentofThe Noseat5.14a(8b+) onEl Capitanbeing an important milestone in big wall history. Major high-altitude big-walls have been scaled inPatagoniaand in theHimalayas.

Description

[edit]
Climbers on apitchofThe Noseroute (VI 5.9 C2) onEl Capitan

Big wall climbing isrock climbingon large routes that often take a full day, if not several days, of continuous climbing to ascend. Big wall climbing is a form ofmulti-pitch climbingbut there is no definition of how manypitchesare needed for a route to be a big wall; a minimum ofat least6–10 pitches (or roughly 300–500 metres) is typically required. Big wall climbing is usually done in pairs aslead climbing,however, due to the length of the climbs, the second climber usually ascends via afixed ropeto save energy and time.[1][2]

Big wall climbing can be performed asfree climbing,however, it is common for big wall climbers to use some level ofaid climbingon the route, as it is often impossible for very large multi-pitch routes to have a uniform level of difficulty (i.e. there may be some sections that are well beyond the difficulties of the rest of the route).[3]Most big wall routes requiretraditional climbingtechniques forclimbing protectionhowever some routes haveboltedsections (orpitons) likesport climbingroutes. Big wall routes have also beenfree soloclimbed.[1][2]

Big wallclimbing routesare typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers are suspended from the rock wall during their entire ascent with limited availability to sit down (e.g. few large ledges), or to escape from the wall other than byabseilingback down the entire route (which can be itself a risky process). Big wall climbing is thus a more serious undertaking than multi-pitch climbing, and climbers will generally only attempt big wall routes atgradesthat they can easily manage as multi-pitch routes.[1][2]

The duration and sustained exposure of big wall climbs require greater equipment—and equipment-handling skills—over and above what is required for multi-pitch routes. Big wall climbers need to be able to haul gear and supplies up the route as they climb (using pulleys andhaul bags), ascend onfixed ropes(the non-leading climber), build major anchor points (forhanging belays),hammer-inbolts and pitons as required, and set upportaledgesfor resting and sleeping. Given the length of the routes, this must happen efficiently.[1][2]

Notable walls

[edit]
Notable big walls
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Petit Dru
El Capitan
Great Trango Tower
Cordillera Paine
Cerro Torre

In determining what is a "big wall", there is not only debate about the height requirements but also on whether it includesalpine climbssuch as the north faces of theEigerand theMatterhorn,which also have a lot of snow and ice.[4]Regardless, a number of walls are considered particularly notable in the development of big-wall climbing:[5][4][6]

  • Trango Towers,Karakoram.The Great Trango Tower's east face and east buttress form the world's longest big wall climbs,[8]and was the birthplace of high-altitude big wall climbing;[5]the towers, including the adjoining Nameless Tower, are considered formidable and dangerous due to their extreme altitude,[4]and include famous big wall routes such asEternal Flame(650-metres, 24-pitches, VI 5.13a), andThe Grand Voyage(1,340-metres, 33-pitches, VII 5.10 A4+), the world's largest vertical route.[8][9][10]
  • Cordillera Paine,ChileanPatagonia.Developed by British and Italian climbers in the early 1960s, the windswept towers have been a continuous venue for big wall climbing with the world's leading big wall climbers still trying to fully free the famous 1991 partially-aided route byWolfgang GullichandKurt Albert,Riders on the Storm(VI, 5.13/7c+, A3).[4][12]
  • Cerro TorreandFitz Roy,Patagonia.Cerro Torre is one of the most iconic big walls but also one of the most controversial as a result ofCesare Maestri's dubious 1959 ascent (disproven in 2015),[13]and his 1970 densely-boltedCompressor Route(bolts removed in 2012); its neighbor Fitz Roy also has iconic big wall routes, and both have attracted climbers doing grand-traverses (orenchainments) of their multiple towers.[4][5]
  • Ulvetanna Peak,Queen Maud Land,Antarctica.Considered the "last frontier" in big wall climbing, its huge rock faces have attracted the continuous attention of some of the world's best contemporary big wall climbers who continue to develop new routes in the location.[2][4][14]

In addition to the above big walls, several other locations are regarded as having impressive big walls that are climbed. However, their level of challenge (sometimes due to the variable or poor quality of the rock) has not been as notable in the development of big wall climbing; they includeTroll Wall(Norway),Cerro Autana(Venezuela),Naranjo de Bulnes(Spain),[14]Tsaratanana Massif(Madagascar),[14]Potrero Chico(Mexico),Ketil(Greenland), andNotch PeakandThe Streaked Wall(Utah).[4][5][14]

History

[edit]
See also:History of rock climbingandList of grade milestones in rock climbing § Multi-pitch routes
Climber on the famous big wall climbCassin RouteonPiz Badile,which is 850-metres, 25-pitches,and graded TD (IFAS), 5.9 (American), 5c (French), VI- (UIAA), IV (NCCS).

One of the earliest examples of "big wall climbing" dates from 1887 when a 17-year-oldGeorg Winklerfree soloedtheVajolet Towersin theDolomites.[15]The Dolomites were the birthplace of big wall climbing, and where pioneerEmilio Comiciinvented many big wall techniques such asaid climbingwith multi-stepaiders,hanging belaysandbivouacs,advanced rope maneuvers, and leading with atrail rope.In 1933, Comici climbed the overhanging north face of theCima Grande,then the world's hardest big wall route. Other pioneers such asRiccardo Cassin,himself a leadingalpinist,created even harder new routes and spread big wall techniques across the Alps.[5]In 1955,Walter Bonattiushered in modern big wall climbing with his six-day solo of a new route on the southwest pillar of thePetit Dru,one of the most important big wall climbs in history.[5][16]

In 1957, a team led byRoyal Robbinsclimbed theNorthwest Face of Half DomeinYosemite,ushering in modern American big wall climbing.[7]In 1958, a team led byWarren Hardingaid climbedThe NoseonEl Capitanusing siege tactics (600 pitons and 125 bolts) over 47 days; while the ascent got worldwide recognition it was controversial due to the excessive use of aid.[7]Robbins' ethos of minimizing the use of aid prevailed over that of Harding, and his legacy of partially aided ascents including theSalathé Wall(1961), theNorth American Wall(1964), and theMuir Wall(1968) cemented Yosemite, and the granite walls of El Capitan, as the world's most important big wall climbing venue and Robbins' place in big wall history.[16][17]

The development of big wall techniques and tools in the European Alps and Yosemite led to a worldwide search for new big walls. In 1963, a team led byChris Boningtonestablished the first big wall routes on theCordillera Paine,ChileandPatagonia,followed closely by new Italian-led routes. In 1972,Doug Scott,and laterCharlie Porter,developed big wall routes onMount Asgard,and highlighted the enormous big wall potential ofBaffin Island.[11]In 1976, a British team led byJoe Brownascended one of the first-ever high-altitude big wall routes with the graniteTrango (Nameless) Towerin theKarakoram,[5]which was followed in 1992 by the two-man team ofJohn MiddendorfandXaver Bongard[de]who ascended the east buttress of the neighboringGreat Trango Tower,putting upThe Grand Voyage(1,340-metres, 33-pitches, VII 5.10 A4+), the longest big wall route in the world.[8]

From the late 1980s, leading sport climbers began to fullyfree-climbmajor big wall routes, and establish new testpieces. In 1988,Todd Skinnerand Paul Piana freed theSalathe Wallon El Capitan at5.13b(8a).[7][16]In 1989,Wolfgang Gullich,with others, established the mega-routeEternal Flameon Nameless Tower (fully freed by theHubersin 2009),[16]and in 1991, createdRiders on the Stormon the Torres del Paine.[16]In 1993,Lynn Hillclaimed one of the greatest prizes in big wall climbing by freeingThe Noseon El Capitan at5.14a(8b+).[7][16]In 2001,Alexander HuberfreedBellavista[it]on theCima Ovestat8c(5.14b).[16]In 2015,Tommy CaldwellandKevin JorgesonfreedDawn Wallon El Capitan at5.14d(9a).[7][16]During this era, new milestones were also set inbig-wall free solo climbingbyAlexander Huber,withBrandler-Hasse Direttissimaon theCima Grandein 2012 at7a+(5.12a), byHansjörg Auer,withFish Routeon theMarmoladain 2007 at7b+(5.12c), and byAlex HonnoldwithFreerideron El Capitan in 2017 at7c+(5.13a).[16]

Equipment

[edit]
See also:Rock-climbing equipment
Equipment used on big wall climbs
Haul bag
Portaledge
Static fixed rope
Anchor points

Big wall climbing requires the equipment used intraditional climbingandmulti-pitch climbing(but in greater volume as the pitches are of fuller length), as well as specific additional items that are needed for extended multi-day muti-pitch big wall routes, including:[3][18][19]

  • Haul bags.Given the level of equipment and supplies needed, heavy-duty haul bags (including stuff sacks and rope bags) are used extensively in big wall climbing; self-locking rope capture pulleys are used for hauling up these haul bags on static/tag rope lines.[3][18][19]
  • Aid climbingequipment. Many big wall climbers carry a basic set of aid climbing equipment includingaiders,daisy chains,pitons(and alsoangles,knifeblades,copperheadsand even bolt kits), ahammer,hooks(and alsoskyhooks,talon hooks,cam hooks),prusiks,fifi hooksand achest harness/gear sling.[3][18][19]
  • Fixed or static ropesystems. A distinctive aspect of big wall climbing is the additional static fixed rope (or tag-line) that is used by the non-lead climber to ascend the route (usingascenders), and by both climbers to haul up their equipment in haul bags; a longer 60–70-metre (200–230 ft) length rope is standard for big walls.[3][18][19]
  • Anchor,belay,andabseilsystems. The sustained nature of big wall climbs places more onus on the skills of creating secure and safe anchor points (e.g. for the portledge), belaying over long pitch lengths (often meriting a bosun's chair andgrigris), and setting up long and complex abseils (e.g. for any need to retreat).[3][18][19]
  • Portaledgesand poop tubes. For overnight stays, portaledges are used (including rain shields), as well as bivy bags and sleeping bags. Poop tubes are used for capturing human waste, which is disposed of on completion.[18][19]
  • Food and water. Water is one of the heaviest elements the climbers have to carry, and big wall climbs typically require circa 3-4 liters per day per person to be hauled along the route (mistakes due to dehydration in the sustained and serious environment of big wall climbing can have serious outcomes); in addition, climbers will also need food/energy provisions to sustain them for the ascent.[3][18][19]
  • Other clothing. As the climbers are spending long days (and potentially nights) on the route, they will need some basic rain gear and warm jackets; big wall climbers also use kneepads and fingerless gloves (and duct tape) to protect their skin during the extended climbing.[3][18][19]

Techniques

[edit]

While the essence of big wall climbing is that oftraditional climbing,and particularlymulti-pitch climbing,it also uses a number of specific techniques that are important in being able to meet the unique challenges of ascending big wall routes, which include the following:[3][20]

Traversing,El Capitan.
  • Traverse pitches. Some big wall routes will require a horizontal traverse, beyond a pendulum, to get to the next crack system; traverse pitches place additional strains on the non-leading climber as they cannot use fixed rope techniques to quickly follow on the lead climber, and almost have to re-lead the climb, albeit with the protection pre-placed. The 2017 filmDawn Wallfeatures an extremely difficult big wall traverse.[3][20]
  • Trail ropes.An aspect of big wall climbing is the lead climber's use of an additional "trail rope" (often a static rope) that they trail behind them as they ascend; it allows the lead and belayer to pass equipment on the climb (i.e. pieces of aid gear). Once the lead climber has reached the top of the pitch, they anchor their dynamic lead rope allowing the belayer to jumar up the lead rope, and focus on hauling up equipment on the trail rope.[3][20]
  • Tension traverses and pendulums. Many big wall routes do not have crack systems (or other faults which can be used by climbers) that follow from the ground to the summit. Climbers use pendulums and tension traverses (i.e. a half-pendulum that uses rope tension for aid) to move between such crack systems.[3][20]One of the most notable isKing Swing,100-foot swing from Boot Flake to Eagle Ledge on theNose(VI 5.9 C2) of El Capitan.[21][22]
Ascending a fixed rope,Fitz Roy.
  • Fixed rope jumaring.Another aspect is that the belayer is not themselves belayed as they ascend the route (i.e. like in a normallead climbingformat). Due to the length of the routes and the need to conserve energy and move quickly, the lead climber will anchor the dynamic lead rope after finishing the pitch, allowing the belayer to jumar up the lead rope (cleaning out the protection en route) usingascendersortop rope soloing.[3][20][23]
Aid climbing,El Capitan.
  • Aid climbingtechniques. Even in the era offree climbing,the use of some aid is common in big wall climbing; the scale of the routes means that sections may have difficulties that are way beyond the general route;[3]in addition, abseil retreat from big wall routes is serious and complex (particularly with pendulums and traverses), and climbers will therefore use aid to maintain upward momentum (also calledFrench free climbing).[3][20]
  • Simul climbingtechniques. Big wall climbing places great physical strains on the climbers, particularly if the route takes a number of days. To speed up the ascent, some climbers usesimul climbingtechniques where both climbers (lead and belayer) move simultaneously up the route without any need to use pitches. Simul climbing techniques are complex and require significant coordination and trust between the climbers.[3][20]

Grading

[edit]

Big wall climbing is used exclusively in relation to rock climbing. Long rock climbing routes that also have ice or snow, are referred to asalpine climbing.There is overlap in the skill sets, and many famous alpinists such asWalter Bonatti,Catherine Destivelle,andAlexander Huber,were also big wall climbers. The most common grading systems used in big wall climbing are theFrench,American(also known as the Yosemite Decimal System), and to a lesser extent theUIAArock climbing grades forfree climbing;theA-grade or C-gradesystems are used for sections ofaid climbing.[24][25]

In addition to the above rock climbing grades (for both free climbing and for aid climbing), aNational Climbing Classification System(NCCS) grade is sometimes quoted on North American big-wall (andalpine) climbs, that are described by theAmerican Alpine Club(republished in 2013) as follows: "North American NCCS grades, often called" commitment grades ", indicate the time investment in a route for an" average "climbing team":[26][27]

  • I and II: "Half a day or less for the technical (5th [i.e.Yosemite Decimal Systemgrade] class) portion of the route ".[26][27]Often listed as "1–3 hours" (for grade I), and "3–5 hours" (for grade II).[24]
  • III: "Most of a day of roped climbing".[26][27]Often listed as "5–8 hours".[24]
  • IV: "A full day of technical climbing".[26][27]Often listed as "a full day".[24]
  • V: "Typically requires an overnight on the route, or done fast and free in a day".[26][27]Often listed as "one very long day or two full days".[24]
  • VI: "Two or more days of hard climbing".[26][27]Often listed as "two days to a week".[24]
  • VII: "Remote walls climbed inalpine style".[26][27]Often listed as "more than a week in extreme conditions".[24]

Because of the great length of big-wall routes, detailedtoposare usually provided outlining the grades on each pitch, and the aid climbing versus free climbing options at key sections. For example, one of the most famous big wall routes is the 31-pitch 870-metre routeThe Nose,on El Capitan, which is graded VI 5.9 C2 as a partial aid climb (mainly due to its roof section), but which is graded VI5.14a(8b+) if climbed completely free.[24]

Evolution of grade milestones

[edit]
See also:List of grade milestones in rock climbing § Multi-pitch routes

The following big wallfree climbingredpoints(i.e. no aid) are notable in the evolution of big wall climbing grade milestones and standards from being a skill used inalpine climbingto a standalone sport in its own right; some are at the borderline of being multi-pitch rather than big wall climbs:[16]

Redpointed

[edit]
Climbers on the roof ofPan Aroma(andBellavista)8c(5.14b) on theCima Ovestin theDolomites.

Free-soloed

[edit]
See also:List of grade milestones in rock climbing § Free-soloed

High altitude and expedition

[edit]

A number of big wall-free climbs are notable for their high altitude or the remoteness of the expedition:

In film

[edit]

A number of notable films have been made focused on big wall climbing including:[46]

See also

[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related toBig wall climbing.

References

[edit]
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  2. ^abcdefgBishart, Andrew (20 December 2017)."What Is Big-Wall Climbing?".National Geographic.Archived fromthe originalon March 5, 2021.Retrieved16 May2023.
  3. ^abcdefghijklmnopThe Mountaineers(2018). "Chapter 15. Aid and Big Wall Climbing".Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills(9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. p. 276.ISBN978-1846892622.
  4. ^abcdefghijkOgden, Jared (2005). "Chapter 1: Fundamentals".Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique(1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 11–16.ISBN978-0898867480.
  5. ^abcdefghijklMiddendorf, John(1999)."The Mechanical Advantage".Ascent Magazine.Climbing.Retrieved18 May2023.
  6. ^*Elli, Fabio; Zabrok, Peter (2019). "Appendix A: Bitchin' Places to Climb".Hooking Up – The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual(1st ed.). Versante Sud. pp. 619–664.ISBN978-8885475809.
  7. ^abcdefghiEditorial (1 June 2016)."The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History".Outside.Retrieved4 December2022.
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  9. ^ab"Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers".PlanetMountain.1 October 2009.Retrieved2 July2013.
  10. ^abLambert, Erik (1 October 2009)."Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame".Alpinist.Retrieved2 July2013.
  11. ^abWright, Cedar (2002)."Holy Baffman: Speed climbing Mt. Asgard's Scott and Porter routes, Baffin Island".American Alpine Journal.44(76): 126–133.
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  13. ^Cordes, Kelly (21 February 2015)."Mountaineering's Greatest Climb Unravels".New York Times.Retrieved20 May2023.
  14. ^abcdCooper, Tarquin (25 April 2018)."7 epic big walls to climb".Red Bull.Retrieved20 May2023.
  15. ^Zhu, Beifeng; Chen, Ruizhi; Li, Yuan (9 August 2021)."The Origin and Early Evolution of Rock Climbing".Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research.Proceedings of the 2021 5th International Seminar on Education, Management and Social Sciences (ISEMSS 2021).571.Atlantis Press: 662–667.doi:10.2991/assehr.k.210806.124.ISBN978-94-6239-414-8.
  16. ^abcdefghij"100 Years of Big-Wall Free Climbing".Gripped Magazine.4 January 2015.Retrieved18 May2023.
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  19. ^abcdefghOgden, Jared (2005). "Chapter 1: Fundamentals".Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique(1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 16–56.ISBN978-0898867480.
  20. ^abcdefgOgden, Jared (2005). "Chapter 2: Big Wall Climbing Procedures".Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique(1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 94–140.ISBN978-0898867480.
  21. ^Bishart, Andrew (14 June 2015)."Climb Yosemite's El Capitan Like a Rock Star—From Your Computer".National Geographic.Archived fromthe originalon July 27, 2021.Retrieved18 May2023.
  22. ^King, Cameron (2015)."Misjudged Pendulum".American Alpine Club.Retrieved18 May2023.
  23. ^Wharton, Josh (25 August 2022)."Top-rope soloing: How Josh Wharton Climbs Multi-pitches Faster and With Less Energy".Climbing.Retrieved5 March2023.
  24. ^abcdefghOgden, Jared (2005). "Chapter 2: Big Wall Climbing Procedures, Grades & Ratings".Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique(1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 56–60.ISBN978-0898867480.
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  30. ^Czech free-climber Adam Ondra scales Yosemite rock wall in record time(The Daily Telegraph)
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  41. ^"Hansjörg Auer free solo Attraverso il Pesce - Fish route - in Marmolada".PlanetMountain.
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  44. ^"This is Still a Gripping Free-Solo Video – Alex Huber on a 20-Pitch 5.12a".Gripped Magazine.2 November 2021.Retrieved16 December2022.
  45. ^Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas (2013)."Mount Asgard, South Tower, Free Bavarian Direct".American Alpine Journal.55(87): 180.Retrieved16 December2022.
  46. ^Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022)."The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time".Outside.Retrieved28 September2023.

Further reading

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