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Fashion show

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Liu Wen,asupermodel,walking the catwalk as she models fashions by designerDiane von FürstenbergatNew York Fashion Weekin 2013

Afashion showis an event put on by afashion designerto showcase their upcoming line of clothing and/oraccessoriesduring afashion week.Fashion shows debut every season, particularly the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons. This is where designers seek to promote their new fashions. The four major fashion weeks in the world, collectively known as the "Big 4", in chronological order of theireponymousfashion weeks, are those held inNew York City,London,Milan,andParis.[1][2]Berlinfashion week is also of global importance.[1][2]

In a typical fashion show,modelswalk the catwalk dressed in the clothing created by the designer. Clothing is illuminated on the catwalk using lighting and special effects. The order in which each model walks out, wearing a specific outfit, is usually planned in accordance with the statement that the designer wants to make about their collection. It is then up to the audience to try to understand what the designer is trying to "say", visually deconstruct each outfit and appreciate the detail and craftsmanship of every piece.

Occasionally, fashion shows take the form of installations, where the models are static, standing or sitting in a constructed environment. A wide range of contemporary designers produce their shows as theatrical productions, with elaborate sets and added elements such as live music or a technological components such ashologramsor pre-recorded video backdrops.

History

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19th and 20th centuries

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Paris fashion and runway at the turn of the century

The origins of fashion shows remain obscure as historians have yet to conduct a comprehensive study on the subject.[3]One of the designers of this concept,Charles Frederick Worth,gained traction by displaying clothes on actual people instead of mannequins. By the end of the 19th century, "fashion parades" were regularly organized at Pariscouturesalons.[4]Americanretailersimported the concept of the fashion show in the early 1900s.[3]The first American fashion show likely took place in 1903 in the New York City store of the Ehrlich Brothers.[3]By 1910, large department stores such asWanamaker'sinManhattanandPhiladelphiawere also staging fashion shows.[3]These events showed couture gowns from Paris or the store's copies of them; they aimed to demonstrate the owners' good taste and capture the attention of female shoppers.[3]As the popularity for these formal presentations expanded, it was in 1918 when fashion houses established fixed dates for runway shows to occur. These occurrences took place twice annually, specifically for fashion houses to plan for and promote their lines to foreign buyers. Runway shows were often held in department stores or hotels when they first began. European fashion houses would actively seek out buyers in the United States, specifically in larger cities, by hosting these runway shows.[5]

Because "the topic of fashion shows remains to find its historian", the earliest history of fashion shows remains obscure. In the 1800s, "fashion parades" periodically took place in Pariscouturesalons.[citation needed]At the turn of the 19th century, exclusive fashion houses in Europe, especially Paris and London, were using formal presentations to showcase their latest line to clientele.[citation needed]

By the 1920s, retailers across the United States held fashion shows.[3]Often, these shows were theatrical, presented with narratives, and organized around a theme (e.g. Parisian, Chinese, or Russian).[3]These shows enjoyed huge popularity through mid-century, sometimes attracting thousands of customers and gawkers.[3]

Finnish actressElina Salopresenting clothes designed byVuokko Nurmesniemiat a fashion show in theHelsinki Botanical Gardenin 1958

In the 1970s and 1980s, American designers began to hold their own fashion shows in private spaces separate from such retailers.[3]In the early 1990s, however, many in the fashion world began to rethink this strategy.[3]Fern Mallis,who was the executive director of theCouncil of Fashion Designers of Americaat the time, remembered that following a series of accidents at shows held in small, hazardous venues, the prevailing attitude was, "We love fashion but we don't want to die for it."[3]In response to these shows, the New York shows were centralized inBryant ParkduringFashion Weekin late 1993.[3]

21st century

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Example of an elaborate stage set used for the Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2011 show

Some designers have attempted to modernize the style and presentation of fashion shows by integrating technological advances in experimental ways, such as including pre-recorded digital videos asbackdrops.[6]During New York Fashion Week in 2014, designerRalph Lauren[3]presented his new Polo line for Spring 2015 in a water-screen projection in Manhattan'sCentral Park.[7]Technological progress has also allowed a broader portion of the fashion industry's followers to experience shows. In 2010, London Fashion Week was the first fashion week to allow viewing of its shows throughlive streaming.[3][8]Live streaming of runway shows and mediated shows has now become commonplace.[9]

Tom Fordcreated amusic videowithLady Gagafor his Spring/Summer 2016 women's collection.[10][11]

In the 21st century, fashion shows are usually also filmed and appear on specially assigned television channels or even in documentaries.[12]Shows have also become increasingly elaborate for many of the top labels, including sprawling sets that often come with higher costs.[13]

Fashion shows present the latest seasonal styles, functioning as both a walking art exhibition and a blueprint for fast fashion stores that replicate high fashion designs. While they can sometimes be perceived as shocking, this is often intentional, serving the crucial purpose of generating publicity.[14]For many others, fashion shows also represent a way of life and establish the annual mood. Attendees of the performances also get to see an artistic medium firsthand and network with professionals in the field. Fashion presentations have evolved in the digital age, with the epidemic hastening this transition.

Format and setting

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A runway may be as basic as a narrow space between rows of chairs or more elaborate setups with multiple catwalks. Most runway shows are held inside, for shelter against the weather, but there are times when runway shows are held outdoors. In the 2016Paris Fashion Week,Chanelpresented an elaborate setup by designing the hall as if it were an airport. The viewing guests sat as if they were awaiting their flights while the models walked around the airport approaching ticket counters.[15]

Models

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Models on the runway atSão Paulo Fashion Week,2017

With the creation of runway shows, the concept of runway modeling was rapidly established with the establishment of agencies and professional modeling careers. Before professional agencies, fashion houses that runway shows often had their own in house models who would specifically be fitted and costumes for each show. By having in house models to present the clothes for runway, the fashion houses could ensure that the clothing was perfectly altered for presentation and bound to sell. However, as the demand for models grew, themodeling agencywas established to representrunway models.[16]

Catwalk

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Haute couturefashion models walking thecatwalkat theCarolina Herrerashow duringNew York Fashion Weekin 2014.

The termcatwalkoriginates from the walkway,stage platform,or clearing used bymodelsto demonstrateclothingandaccessoriesduring a fashion show.[17]Catwalks are used by designers to introduce new fashion lines and introduce new designers that grab the attention of consumers. In fashionjargon,"what's on the catwalk" or similar phrasing can refer to whatever is new and popular in fashion. Some, especially in the United States, refer to the catwalk as arunway.[18]

Terminology

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Fashion sketching before live runway presentation
  • Exclusive: When a model scores an exclusive for a fashion label, this means that they have been picked to walk for that particular designer only. This might launch their career, elevate their status in the fashion industry and 'guarantee' them spots on the world's best catwalks.[19]
  • Haute couture: A French phrase for high fashion. Runway shows were created to specifically display custom garments such asHaute couture.[20]
  • Look book: A collection of photos taken of models wearing a designer's or manufacturer's clothing, that is sent out to fashion editors, buyers, clients, and special customers to show the designer's looks for the season.[20]
  • Sketches: Sketches, or illustrations, were the first way that designers would present clientele with their line. This is before mannequins and live runway models were established within the industry.[21]

See also

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References

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  1. ^abBradford, Julie (2014).Fashion Journalism.Routledge.p. 129.ISBN9781136475368.Archivedfrom the original on January 1, 2016.RetrievedNovember 20,2015.
  2. ^abDillon, Susan (2011).The Fundamentals of Fashion Management.A&C Black.p. 115.ISBN9782940411580.Archivedfrom the original on January 1, 2016.RetrievedNovember 20,2015.
  3. ^abcdefghijklmnFortini, Amanda (February 8, 2006)."How the Runway Took Off".Slate.ISSN1091-2339.RetrievedJune 26,2024.
  4. ^Parmal, Pamela A.; Grumbach, Didier; Ward, Susan; Whitley, Lauren D., eds. (2006). Written at Boston, Massachusetts, United States.Fashion show: Paris style(1st ed.). Museum of Fine Arts: MFA Publications.ISBN978-0-87846-707-5.OCLC76834334.
  5. ^"History of the Runway Show".RNWY®.April 5, 2017.Archivedfrom the original on July 31, 2020.RetrievedJune 3,2019.
  6. ^"New York Fashion Week Explores Technology's role in fashion".Fashionista.September 12, 2014.Archivedfrom the original on August 18, 2016.RetrievedJanuary 16,2017.
  7. ^"Press Releases – Press Releases - Ralph Lauren Investor Relations".Investor.ralphlauren.September 8, 2014.RetrievedJanuary 16,2017.
  8. ^Alex Wood."London fashion week: why technology is in fashion".The Guardian.Archivedfrom the original on September 21, 2016.RetrievedJanuary 16,2017.
  9. ^"Posts | Launchmetrics".Fashiongps.March 25, 2014. Archived fromthe originalon June 8, 2015.RetrievedJanuary 16,2017.
  10. ^"TOM FORD WOMENSWEAR SS16".YouTube.Archivedfrom the original on December 23, 2016.RetrievedMarch 19,2017.
  11. ^jezebelTom Ford's Runway Show Was a Video Starring Lady GagaArchivedMarch 20, 2017, at theWayback Machine,Julianne Escobedo Shepherd, 10/02/15
  12. ^Bible Black, a documentary on a fashion show held by Andrew MackenzieUrban.dk, November 13, 2008, artikel-id: e14a0053 (November 11, 2008).
  13. ^Murrow, Laura (March 6, 2012)."Transplanted Trees, Paper Kingdoms, and Flames: The Best Fashion Week Set Design".The Cut.New York Media LLC.Archivedfrom the original on July 2, 2015.RetrievedJuly 1,2015.
  14. ^Hespokestyle."What is the purpose of a fashion show?".Hepsokestyle.Archivedfrom the original on April 20, 2021.RetrievedApril 7,2021.
  15. ^"Paris Fashion Week 2015: Chanel Turns The Runway Into Airport, Jet-Setter's Dream! [PHOTOS]".Latin Times.October 7, 2015. Archived fromthe originalon June 29, 2018.RetrievedDecember 10,2015.
  16. ^Evans, Caroline."Fashion Models".LoveToKnow.Archivedfrom the original on July 31, 2020.RetrievedJune 3,2019.
  17. ^runwayArchivedJuly 15, 2017, at theWayback Machine,3.b, Merriam-Webster Dictionary
  18. ^"catwalk – Dictionary Definition".Vocabulary.Archivedfrom the original on July 31, 2020.RetrievedJune 3,2019.
  19. ^Lim, James (February 20, 2009)."Lyndsey Scott: First Black Model to Score Calvin Exclusive".New York Magazine.Archivedfrom the original on July 19, 2012.RetrievedJune 12,2011.
  20. ^abHelmer, Vanessa."Here Is a Glossary of Must-Know Modeling Terms".The Balance Careers.Archivedfrom the original on June 3, 2019.RetrievedJune 3,2019.
  21. ^Victoria and Albert Museum, Digital Media webmaster@vam ac uk (August 13, 2013)."Fashion Drawing and Illustration in the 20th Century".vam.ac.uk.Archivedfrom the original on July 31, 2020.RetrievedJune 3,2019.
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  • Media related toCatwalkat Wikimedia Commons